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How to Care for Common Mallow

The common mallow is an ornamental plant with a large variety of cultivars. It has historically also been used to create a yellow dye. Common mallow seeds are shaped roughly like cheese wheels, leading the seeds (and sometimes the plant itself) being called "cheeses."
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Symbolism

Love, protection and health
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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Common mallow
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Common mallow
Common mallow
Common mallow
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Common mallow?

The common mallow is a fairly drought-tolerant plant once fully established. Weekly watering is required only during its first year. After this, your watering regime can be reduced to once every 10-14 days. Alternatively, water an established common mallow only during its growth and flowering periods when the rain doesn't provide 2.5 cm of water a week. The more water you provide, the lusher the leaves will be.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Common mallow?
When watering the Common mallow, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Common mallow comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Common mallow too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Common mallow, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Common mallow, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Common mallow have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Common mallow. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Common mallow grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Common mallow is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Common mallow?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Common mallow needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Common mallow outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Common mallow can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Common mallow need?
When it comes time to water your Common mallow, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Common mallow at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Common mallow can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Common mallow is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Common mallow will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Common mallow will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Common mallow more water at this time.
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How should I water my Common mallow through the seasons?
The Common mallow will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Common mallow will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Common mallow indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Common mallow indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Common mallow to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Common mallow very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Common mallow?

The hardy common mallow will benefit greatly from an annual fertilizing. Feed with a quality, slow-release fertilizer in late winter or early spring. A well-balanced fertilizer, with an N:P:K ratio of 10:10:10, is a good choice. Water generously after fertilizing. Alternatively, a natural organic plant food can be added. You can also mix some organic compost into the soil when planting your common mallow to enrich it and regulate drainage.

Fertilizer

Common mallow grow throughout many regions of the world and are often some of the best plants to use for foliage gardens. If you want to reap the full benefits of growing a Common mallow, in your garden, you should understand the basics of its care routine, with special consideration for fertilization. The information below will answer some of the most important questions related to fertilizing a Common mallow.
The leaves of the Common mallow comprise most of its main structure, and fertilization is one of the most impactful ways that you can ensure that those leaves look great while also serving their function. Proper fertilization will help your Common mallow hold leaves with consistent color and a healthy texture. Fertilization also works below the soil's surface to help your Common mallow generate new roots and maintain the roots that are already part of the root system. This means that fertilization will not just keep your plant healthy now, but it will also help your plant be better capable of absorbing soil nutrients in the future.
If you grow your Common mallow outdoors each year, this perennial plant will send new growth shooting out in early spring. The emergence of those leaves is a sign that the time is right to begin fertilization for the year. Often, a Common mallow will perform just fine with a single application of fertilizer when the spring arrives. However, if you wish to maximize the growth of your Common mallow, you can repeat the feeding multiple times throughout the spring and early summer. If you choose this route, you can feed your Common mallow about once every month to a month and a half.
Fortunately, choosing the best fertilizer for a Common mallow is a very straightforward task. These plants will thrive on a general-purpose garden fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A fertilizer that has a ratio of 10-10-10 or something similar will be very effective. When in doubt, be sure to avoid fertilizers that have high amounts of nitrogen.
Most of the best fertilizer for a Common mallow will come in a granular form. These fertilizers should be slow-release and will be very easy to apply to the soil. It can also be helpful to feed your Common mallow using an organic soil amendment such as compost.
Wait until your Common mallow has just barely poked its first leaves through the soil's surface in early spring. Once you see that sign, apply a granular slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formula to the soil that surrounds the base of your Common mallow. You can repeat a similar process later in the season if you choose. When reapplying fertilizer to a Common mallow, you should, again, apply the fertilizer to the soil at the base of the plant rather than to the plant itself. At times, this may require you to move some leaves out of the way to access the soil above the roots. It's also often a good choice to water your Common mallow before and after you feed it.
The Common mallow doesn't necessarily need to receive high volumes of fertilizer each year, which means overfertilization is entirely possible. If you overfertilize your Common mallow, you will likely notice first that the leaves have turned brown.
Overfertilization of Common mallow is especially common if you use a fertilizer that has higher concentrations of nitrogen. High nitrogen content will likely cause the leaves of your Common mallow to become discolored, lose much of their moisture, and begin curling at the margins. Many gardeners avoid such complications by limiting fertilization of their Common mallow to once per year in early spring.
In the late fall and winter, your Common mallow will enter a dormant phase in which it will no longer produce new growth. At this time, you should avoid fertilizing your Common mallow. If you choose to fertilize multiple times during spring and summer, you should begin reducing your fertilization rate as summer approaches, as your Common mallow 's growth rate will also slow.
Overall, it is never a wise choice to fertilize your Common mallow during times when the weather is unseasonably hot or when the soil is extraordinarily dry. Fertilizing in either of those cases can stress your Common mallow and cause it to perish prematurely.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Common mallow?
The leaves of the Common mallow comprise most of its main structure, and fertilization is one of the most impactful ways that you can ensure that those leaves look great while also serving their function. Proper fertilization will help your Common mallow hold leaves with consistent color and a healthy texture.
Fertilization also works below the soil's surface to help your Common mallow generate new roots and maintain the roots that are already part of the root system. This means that fertilization will not just keep your plant healthy now, but it will also help your plant be better capable of absorbing soil nutrients in the future.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Common mallow?
If you grow your Common mallow outdoors each year, this perennial plant will send new growth shooting out in early spring. The emergence of those leaves is a sign that the time is right to begin fertilization for the year.
Often, a Common mallow will perform just fine with a single application of fertilizer when the spring arrives. However, if you wish to maximize the growth of your Common mallow, you can repeat the feeding multiple times throughout the spring and early summer. If you choose this route, you can feed your Common mallow about once every month to a month and a half.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Common mallow?
In the late fall and winter, your Common mallow will enter a dormant phase in which it will no longer produce new growth. At this time, you should avoid fertilizing your Common mallow. If you choose to fertilize multiple times during spring and summer, you should begin reducing your fertilization rate as summer approaches, as your Common mallow 's growth rate will also slow.
Overall, it is never a wise choice to fertilize your Common mallow during times when the weather is unseasonably hot or when the soil is extraordinarily dry. Fertilizing in either of those cases can stress your Common mallow and cause it to perish prematurely.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Common mallow need?
Fortunately, choosing the best fertilizer for a Common mallow is a very straightforward task. These plants will thrive on a general-purpose garden fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A fertilizer that has a ratio of 10-10-10 or something similar will be very effective. When in doubt, be sure to avoid fertilizers that have high amounts of nitrogen.
Most of the best fertilizer for a Common mallow will come in a granular form. These fertilizers should be slow-release and will be very easy to apply to the soil. It can also be helpful to feed your Common mallow using an organic soil amendment such as compost.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Common mallow?
Wait until your Common mallow has just barely poked its first leaves through the soil's surface in early spring. Once you see that sign, apply a granular slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formula to the soil that surrounds the base of your Common mallow.
You can repeat a similar process later in the season if you choose. When reapplying fertilizer to a Common mallow, you should, again, apply the fertilizer to the soil at the base of the plant rather than to the plant itself. At times, this may require you to move some leaves out of the way to access the soil above the roots. It's also often a good choice to water your Common mallow before and after you feed it.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Common mallow too much?
The Common mallow doesn't necessarily need to receive high volumes of fertilizer each year, which means overfertilization is entirely possible. If you overfertilize your Common mallow, you will likely notice first that the leaves have turned brown.
Overfertilization of Common mallow is especially common if you use a fertilizer that has higher concentrations of nitrogen. High nitrogen content will likely cause the leaves of your Common mallow to become discolored, lose much of their moisture, and begin curling at the margins. Many gardeners avoid such complications by limiting fertilization of their Common mallow to once per year in early spring.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Common mallow?

The common mallow generally requires full sun exposure. It may thrive under partial shade, but this will negatively reflect on its blooms. A plant that is shaded will produce fewer flowers, so try to provide at least six hours of full sun a day. If provided with enough sunlight, your common mallow will not need to be staked.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Common mallow need?
Common mallow needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Common mallow? How to protect Common mallow from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Common mallow from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Common mallow gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Common mallow and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Common mallow need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Common mallow is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Common mallow is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Common mallow need for photosynthesis?
Common mallow will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Common mallow get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Common mallow to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Common mallow?

The common mallow, especially the bushier varieties, benefits from occasional pruning. Trimming should be done in late winter or early spring when the frosts have passed. If freshly pruned plant tissue is exposed to freezing temperatures, it can be damaged by frostbite. Trim the shoots down to the first set of leaves, which will stimulate new and healthy dense growth. Use clean, sharp shears and always disinfect your tools in between the cuts to reduce the chances of possible cross-contamination.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
When should I prune my Common mallow?
You can prune your Common mallow any time you notice dead, diseased, or damaged leaves during the growing season. Once you notice such a leave, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. You can cut its stem just above the soil’s surface to remove it. Such pruning can take place as needed during spring and summer. Also, this plant can bloom any time between spring and fall, and some gardeners choose to remove flower buds before they have a chance to open. Removing unopened flower buds allows this plant to focus most of its growing energy on its beautiful leaves. However, pruning in this manner does not necessarily influence the plant’s overall health. Cutting back should be done late in the winter to early spring. Ideally, you should wait until you see new basal growth before you cut off the dead and dried winter parts, to about 6 inches from the ground.
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How can I prune my Common mallow?
Pruning the Common mallow is as easy as waiting until you notice dead or damaged leaves on your plant. When you recognize these leaves, equip yourself with a pair of sharp and sterile hand pruning shears. Hand pruning shears will work best as larger tools like loppers will not be well suited to the precise cuts you need to make. Once you have a proper set of pruning tools, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Cut the stem just above where it exits the soil to remove it entirely. If you wish to stop this plant from flowering, you can use the same pruning shears to remove any buds before they open. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head. Cutting back should be done late in the winter to early spring. Ideally, you should wait until you see new basal growth before you cut off the dead and dried winter parts to about 6 inches from the ground.
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What should I do after pruning my Common mallow?
All that is required of you once you have pruned your Common mallow is to clean up. Once you have pruned, deadheaded, or cut back your Common mallow, gather the bits you have cut off and discard them. If there are any diseased parts of the plant that you have pruned away, do not discard them with the rest of the pruned pieces. Diseased foliage should be disposed of. When watering after pruning, be careful not to touch the wound to prevent fungus from infecting the plant through the fresh wound. Placing Common mallow in a well-ventilated location will also help the wound to dry out and heal in time.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Common mallow?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. As you are pruning your Common mallow, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetricaly. It is recommended that gloves and safety glasses be worn while pruning Common mallow.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Common mallow?
Pruning is an important part of plant care and maintenance. Different plants have different pruning requirements. Some plants may need little to no pruning, while others may require more specific attention. Most plants should be pruned to remove damaged or unhealthy foliage. Other plants may be pruned to control their shape and size. Pruning may even be done to remove the flower heads of plants and stop them from self-seeding. Although some gardeners may find pruning a tedious task, it is a necessary evil and is an essential part of keeping your plants happy and healthy.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Common mallow?

The common mallow can grow under a broad range of temperature conditions, with bushier varieties usually able to handle warmer temperatures. This is a hardy plant, able to withstand a winter that drops down to -40 ℃. Some varieties, like the Tree common mallow, can handle drought well once established, and will burst back into life when the rains return.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Common mallow?
The best temperature for Common mallow depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Common mallow has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Common mallow may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Common mallow will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Common mallow. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Common mallow to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common mallow
If this is the first year of your Common mallow outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Common mallow, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Common mallow inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Common mallow in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Common mallow should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Common mallow from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Common mallow from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Common mallow in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Common mallow is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Common mallow to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common mallow
During the cold winter months, Common mallow needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Common mallow, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Common mallow. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Common mallow will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Common mallow?

The common mallow is not picky about its growing substrate. It can handle both clay and sandy soils and will adapt to most gardens. It doesn't necessarily require rich organic soils, and fertilizers are not a must. It will grow in neutral soil, but most will thrive if the soil pH is around 7.0.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Common mallow?

plant your common mallow in late summer or early fall. If planting in pots or in the garden, mix in some organic compost to regulate water retention. The common mallow is easily grown from seed. Choose a location that provides well-draining but moist soil and full sun. Sow shallow, cover the seed with a light soil layer, and keep the substrate constantly moist until germination. Pinch back new-growth tips when they reach about 30 cm to stimulate more compact growth.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Common mallow?

For common mallow, transplanting thrives best during the warm embrace of early to late summer. Emphasize on a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil. Nurture your common mallow with tender care, and enjoy the splendid growth from consistent transplantation efforts.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Common mallow?

Needs excellent drainage in pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More Info on Common Mallow Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Common mallow needs an ample amount of light for healthy growth. Originally, it thrives in environments with plenty of sunshine. Exposure to a lesser light level, though acceptable, might limit its robust development. Overexposure to light, on the other hand, could lead to complexities like leaf scorching or dehydration.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 38 ℃
Common mallow is a plant native to temperate regions, accustomed to a temperature range of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Adaptable, it can tolerate cooler climates, but for optimal growth, maintain temperatures within its preferred range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
18-24 inches
For common mallow, transplanting thrives best during the warm embrace of early to late summer. Emphasize on a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil. Nurture your common mallow with tender care, and enjoy the splendid growth from consistent transplantation efforts.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer
Characterized by its bright pink-purple flowers and heart-shaped leaves, common mallow thrives with judicious pruning to promote vigorous growth and flowering. Key techniques include deadheading spent blooms to encourage reblooming and cutting back in early spring to maintain shape. Optimal pruning occurs from early spring to late summer, aligning with active growth phases. Pruning common mallow not only enhances aesthetics but also prevents overcrowding and promotes overall health by improving air circulation.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
Southeast
Common mallow is auspicious for Southeast-facing areas, as it embodies the element of Wood, beneficial in this direction. However, remember, Feng Shui interpretations vary and personal circumstances also play a major role. Therefore, a personalized evaluation could provide a more accurate understanding.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common mallow based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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care_more_info

More About Common Mallow

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Biennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
60 to 90 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Violet
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 122 cm

Name story

Common mallow
The plant was pleasant when it first blossomed, but with the advent of summer, its leaves lost their green color, making its stems look uneven. Since it is the most common Malva plant in which Malva means mallow, so it is most often called common mallow.
Cheese-flower
If you are lucky enough to see its seeds, do observe the shape of the seeds carefully. You will find that they look very similar to cheese wheel. This inspired the common name, cheese-flower.

Usages

Garden Use
Common mallow (Malva sylvestris) is a common wildflower that has enough appeal to merit growing in meadows and wildlife gardens but is a less common feature of ornamental gardens. However, the purple flowers have visual appeal and attract bees, and the plant needs very little maintenance. It is most commonly planted to add attractive color to beds and borders. Other wildflowers like sweet William and meadow cranesbill look great with this plant.
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Common Problems

My common common mallow is turning brown. Why is this happening?

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This is probably the result of heat stress. Even though the common mallow is relatively drought-tolerant, prolonged hot periods may damage it. Prune back the dying stems to the first flower row and water generously.

My common mallow has yellowing leaves and only a few blooms, what can I do?

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It sounds like your common mallow is lacking in sunlight. Remember that the common mallow needs full sun exposure and at least six hours of it. If possible, move the plant to a more suitable position and mix in some organic compost with the soil, to give it a little boost and help it to regain its vigor.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Herb
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.
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2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
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Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Common Mallow
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
label
main-image
Common Mallow
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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Common mallow
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Common mallow
Common mallow
Common mallow

How to Care for Common Mallow

The common mallow is an ornamental plant with a large variety of cultivars. It has historically also been used to create a yellow dye. Common mallow seeds are shaped roughly like cheese wheels, leading the seeds (and sometimes the plant itself) being called "cheeses."
symbolism

Symbolism

Love, protection and health
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Common mallow?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The common mallow is a fairly drought-tolerant plant once fully established. Weekly watering is required only during its first year. After this, your watering regime can be reduced to once every 10-14 days. Alternatively, water an established common mallow only during its growth and flowering periods when the rain doesn't provide 2.5 cm of water a week. The more water you provide, the lusher the leaves will be.
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What is the best way to water my Common mallow?
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How much water does my Common mallow need?
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Common mallow?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
The hardy common mallow will benefit greatly from an annual fertilizing. Feed with a quality, slow-release fertilizer in late winter or early spring. A well-balanced fertilizer, with an N:P:K ratio of 10:10:10, is a good choice. Water generously after fertilizing. Alternatively, a natural organic plant food can be added. You can also mix some organic compost into the soil when planting your common mallow to enrich it and regulate drainage.
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Fertilizer

Common mallow grow throughout many regions of the world and are often some of the best plants to use for foliage gardens. If you want to reap the full benefits of growing a Common mallow, in your garden, you should understand the basics of its care routine, with special consideration for fertilization. The information below will answer some of the most important questions related to fertilizing a Common mallow.
The leaves of the Common mallow comprise most of its main structure, and fertilization is one of the most impactful ways that you can ensure that those leaves look great while also serving their function. Proper fertilization will help your Common mallow hold leaves with consistent color and a healthy texture. Fertilization also works below the soil's surface to help your Common mallow generate new roots and maintain the roots that are already part of the root system. This means that fertilization will not just keep your plant healthy now, but it will also help your plant be better capable of absorbing soil nutrients in the future.
If you grow your Common mallow outdoors each year, this perennial plant will send new growth shooting out in early spring. The emergence of those leaves is a sign that the time is right to begin fertilization for the year. Often, a Common mallow will perform just fine with a single application of fertilizer when the spring arrives. However, if you wish to maximize the growth of your Common mallow, you can repeat the feeding multiple times throughout the spring and early summer. If you choose this route, you can feed your Common mallow about once every month to a month and a half.
Fortunately, choosing the best fertilizer for a Common mallow is a very straightforward task. These plants will thrive on a general-purpose garden fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A fertilizer that has a ratio of 10-10-10 or something similar will be very effective. When in doubt, be sure to avoid fertilizers that have high amounts of nitrogen.
Most of the best fertilizer for a Common mallow will come in a granular form. These fertilizers should be slow-release and will be very easy to apply to the soil. It can also be helpful to feed your Common mallow using an organic soil amendment such as compost.
Wait until your Common mallow has just barely poked its first leaves through the soil's surface in early spring. Once you see that sign, apply a granular slow-release fertilizer with a balanced formula to the soil that surrounds the base of your Common mallow. You can repeat a similar process later in the season if you choose. When reapplying fertilizer to a Common mallow, you should, again, apply the fertilizer to the soil at the base of the plant rather than to the plant itself. At times, this may require you to move some leaves out of the way to access the soil above the roots. It's also often a good choice to water your Common mallow before and after you feed it.
The Common mallow doesn't necessarily need to receive high volumes of fertilizer each year, which means overfertilization is entirely possible. If you overfertilize your Common mallow, you will likely notice first that the leaves have turned brown.
Overfertilization of Common mallow is especially common if you use a fertilizer that has higher concentrations of nitrogen. High nitrogen content will likely cause the leaves of your Common mallow to become discolored, lose much of their moisture, and begin curling at the margins. Many gardeners avoid such complications by limiting fertilization of their Common mallow to once per year in early spring.
In the late fall and winter, your Common mallow will enter a dormant phase in which it will no longer produce new growth. At this time, you should avoid fertilizing your Common mallow. If you choose to fertilize multiple times during spring and summer, you should begin reducing your fertilization rate as summer approaches, as your Common mallow 's growth rate will also slow.
Overall, it is never a wise choice to fertilize your Common mallow during times when the weather is unseasonably hot or when the soil is extraordinarily dry. Fertilizing in either of those cases can stress your Common mallow and cause it to perish prematurely.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Common mallow?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The common mallow generally requires full sun exposure. It may thrive under partial shade, but this will negatively reflect on its blooms. A plant that is shaded will produce fewer flowers, so try to provide at least six hours of full sun a day. If provided with enough sunlight, your common mallow will not need to be staked.
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What type of sunlight does Common mallow need?
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Can sunlight damage Common mallow? How to protect Common mallow from the sun and heat damage?
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What will happen if Common mallow gets inadequate sunlight?
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Common mallow?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
The common mallow, especially the bushier varieties, benefits from occasional pruning. Trimming should be done in late winter or early spring when the frosts have passed. If freshly pruned plant tissue is exposed to freezing temperatures, it can be damaged by frostbite. Trim the shoots down to the first set of leaves, which will stimulate new and healthy dense growth. Use clean, sharp shears and always disinfect your tools in between the cuts to reduce the chances of possible cross-contamination.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Common mallow?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The common mallow can grow under a broad range of temperature conditions, with bushier varieties usually able to handle warmer temperatures. This is a hardy plant, able to withstand a winter that drops down to -40 ℃. Some varieties, like the Tree common mallow, can handle drought well once established, and will burst back into life when the rains return.
What is the optimal temperature for Common mallow?
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Common mallow
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How can I protect Common mallow from extreme temperatures?
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Common mallow
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Common mallow?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The common mallow is not picky about its growing substrate. It can handle both clay and sandy soils and will adapt to most gardens. It doesn't necessarily require rich organic soils, and fertilizers are not a must. It will grow in neutral soil, but most will thrive if the soil pH is around 7.0.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Common mallow?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
plant your common mallow in late summer or early fall. If planting in pots or in the garden, mix in some organic compost to regulate water retention. The common mallow is easily grown from seed. Choose a location that provides well-draining but moist soil and full sun. Sow shallow, cover the seed with a light soil layer, and keep the substrate constantly moist until germination. Pinch back new-growth tips when they reach about 30 cm to stimulate more compact growth.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Common mallow?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
For common mallow, transplanting thrives best during the warm embrace of early to late summer. Emphasize on a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil. Nurture your common mallow with tender care, and enjoy the splendid growth from consistent transplantation efforts.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

How to Repot Common mallow?

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common mallow based on 10 million real cases
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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care_more_info

More About Common Mallow

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Biennial, Annual
Spread
Spread
60 to 90 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Late spring, Summer, Fall
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Purple
Violet
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
3 to 5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 122 cm

Name story

Common mallow
The plant was pleasant when it first blossomed, but with the advent of summer, its leaves lost their green color, making its stems look uneven. Since it is the most common Malva plant in which Malva means mallow, so it is most often called common mallow.
Cheese-flower
If you are lucky enough to see its seeds, do observe the shape of the seeds carefully. You will find that they look very similar to cheese wheel. This inspired the common name, cheese-flower.

Usages

Garden Use
Common mallow (Malva sylvestris) is a common wildflower that has enough appeal to merit growing in meadows and wildlife gardens but is a less common feature of ornamental gardens. However, the purple flowers have visual appeal and attract bees, and the plant needs very little maintenance. It is most commonly planted to add attractive color to beds and borders. Other wildflowers like sweet William and meadow cranesbill look great with this plant.
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Common Problems

My common common mallow is turning brown. Why is this happening?

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This is probably the result of heat stress. Even though the common mallow is relatively drought-tolerant, prolonged hot periods may damage it. Prune back the dying stems to the first flower row and water generously.

My common mallow has yellowing leaves and only a few blooms, what can I do?

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It sounds like your common mallow is lacking in sunlight. Remember that the common mallow needs full sun exposure and at least six hours of it. If possible, move the plant to a more suitable position and mix in some organic compost with the soil, to give it a little boost and help it to regain its vigor.
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Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for herb are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Herb
check-health

Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
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Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
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Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Herbaceous plants need good light to bloom. If it doesn't have enough light, it may not bloom or have fewer blooms. Consider moving the plant to a sunnier spot or switching to a different plant that thrives in your light conditions.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without major wilting, increase the light gradually over the course of a week. If the plant starts losing leaves or drooping, keep it in the shade. Continue shading until the plant has recovered. If it's yellowing and losing many leaves, the light is too low, so increase it.
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2
Adapting Your New Herb
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3
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Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Common mallow needs an ample amount of light for healthy growth. Originally, it thrives in environments with plenty of sunshine. Exposure to a lesser light level, though acceptable, might limit its robust development. Overexposure to light, on the other hand, could lead to complexities like leaf scorching or dehydration.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Common mallow thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your common mallow may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Common mallow enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Common mallow thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Common mallow is a plant native to temperate regions, accustomed to a temperature range of 68 to 95 °F (20 to 35 ℃). Adaptable, it can tolerate cooler climates, but for optimal growth, maintain temperatures within its preferred range.
Regional wintering strategies
Common mallow has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Common mallow is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Common mallow should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Common Mallow?
For common mallow, transplanting thrives best during the warm embrace of early to late summer. Emphasize on a sunny or partially shaded location with well-draining soil. Nurture your common mallow with tender care, and enjoy the splendid growth from consistent transplantation efforts.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Common Mallow?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Common Mallow?
The prime time to relocate common mallow falls between the early and late summer months, which provide the perfect nourishing environment. Relocating during these sun-soaked days allows common mallow to flourish, gaining robust strength and vitality before the colder season.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Common Mallow Plants?
For common mallow, it's best to space them about 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart. This spacing provides enough room for each plant to grow and flourish, ensuring an abundant harvest.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Common Mallow Transplanting?
For common mallow, a well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0 is ideal. Add plenty of organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil and provide a good base for the plants to grow.
Where Should You Relocate Your Common Mallow?
Choose a location with full sun or partial shade for common mallow. They are pretty adaptable to different light conditions, but more sunlight will help them produce more flowers and grow stronger.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Common Mallow?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Trowel
To dig the planting hole and remove the plant from its original container or location.
Shovel or Spade
To dig, mix in compost, and move soil as needed.
Watering Can
To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Compost or Organic Matter
To mix in with the planting hole to improve soil nutrients and structure.
Mulch
To help retain soil moisture and suppress weeds after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Common Mallow from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the common mallow plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the common mallow plant well before removing it from its pot. Carefully turn the pot on its side and gently slide the plant out, keeping the root ball intact. If the plant is stuck, tap the sides of the pot to loosen the soil and roots.
From Seedling Tray: To remove a common mallow seedling from its tray, gently squeeze the bottom of one cell to release the roots and soil. Be careful not to damage the roots while pulling the seedling out.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Common Mallow
Time Selection
The best time to transplant common mallow is in the evening, on a cloudy day, or during mild temperatures to minimize shock and give the plant time to establish itself.
Preparation
Prepare the new planting area by digging a hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of the common mallow plant. Mix in compost or organic matter with the removed soil to improve nutrients and soil structure.
Plant Placement
Place the common mallow plant in the prepared hole, ensuring that the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. If needed, add or remove soil under the root ball to adjust the height.
Backfill
Gently backfill the hole with the amended soil, firming it around the root ball with your hands to remove air pockets.
Watering
Water the common mallow plant thoroughly after transplanting to help settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
Mulching
Add a layer of mulch around the base of the plant, keeping it away from the stem to prevent rot.
How Do You Care For Common Mallow After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the common mallow consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Feeding
After transplanting, wait a few weeks before applying a balanced fertilizer to give the plant time to adjust to its new environment.
Pruning
If the common mallow plant is large and bushy, prune it back by one-third after transplanting to reduce water loss through transpiration. This encourages new growth and reduces stress on the root system.
Monitoring
Keep an eye out for signs of stress such as wilting, yellowing, or dropping leaves. If these occur, take appropriate measures, such as adjusting watering or providing additional shade.
Pest Control
Check the common mallow plant regularly for signs of pests or diseases and treat them promptly to maintain a healthy transplant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Common Mallow Transplantation.
When should I transplant common mallow?
The most suitable time to transplant common mallow is from the onset of summer till its end. Trust me, your common mallow will love it!
How much space is needed between common mallow when transplanting?
Allow a gap of about 18-24 inches (45-60cm). This gives common mallow enough room to grow to its full potential.
What should I do if my common mallow shows signs of wilting after transplanting?
Don't worry! Ensure it gets ample water and protect it from intense sunlight for a couple of days. It should recover soon.
What type of soil is best for transplanting common mallow?
Common mallow thrives in well-drained, fertile soil. Amend the soil with organic matter for best results before transplanting.
How deep should I dig for transplanting common mallow?
A hole that is twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball of common mallow would be just perfect.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted common mallow turning yellow?
Yellow leaves might be a sign of overwatering. Adjust watering practices and check the soil's drainage. Yellow leaves usually mean common mallow is saying 'too much water, buddy!'
Do I need to prune common mallow after transplanting?
Absolutely! Pruning helps to stimulate healthier and bushier growth. Remove any dead or dying stems to direct energy to the healthier parts of common mallow.
How often should I water common mallow after transplanting?
Initially, water common mallow daily for the first week to help it get established. Then reduce watering to once a week or when the soil feels dry to touch.
How can I prevent transplant shock in common mallow?
Watering immediately after transplanting, keeping it at an ideal temperature, and reducing sun exposure can minimize transplant shock for your common mallow. Soothe their transition, and they'll thank you!
Is it better to transplant common mallow in a container or directly into the ground?
Common mallow can be transplanted either way. Choose based on your convenience. Just remember the spacing requirements - 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart if you want happy, healthy common mallow.
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