Your Mango tree will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Mango tree. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Mango tree. However, the Mango tree usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


More About How-Tos


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Mango Tree
Mango tree is a large tree native to the Indian subcontinent. It is most well-known for the tropical fruit it produces, and mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. Mango tree can also be used for wood after the tree’s fruit production is over. This type of wood is highly prized for making musical instruments.

Symbolism
Fruit of love

Water
Every 1-2 weeks


Sunlight
Full sun







Basic Care Guide

Water
Newly-planted mango tree should be watered once a day for a couple of weeks, or as needed, to keep the soil moist. For the first couple of years, your tree should be watered every week or two. Older trees typically only need to be watered in periods of severe drought. Container-planted mango tree should be kept moist for the first few weeks and then occasionally allowed to dry out a little bit.


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What is the best way to water my Mango tree?
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What should I do if I water my Mango tree too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Mango tree can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Mango tree is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Mango tree, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Mango tree from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Mango tree in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Mango tree, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Mango tree?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Mango tree is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Mango tree. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Mango tree .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Mango tree need?
When it comes time to water your Mango tree, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Mango tree by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Mango tree gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Mango tree is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Mango tree is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Mango tree a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Mango tree enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Mango tree, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Mango tree will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Mango tree will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Mango tree.
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How can I water my Mango tree at different growth stages?
When the Mango tree is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Mango tree that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Mango tree can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Mango tree is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Mango tree through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Mango tree. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Mango tree will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Mango tree indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Mango tree may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Fertilizer
Potted mango tree does best with small applications of liquid fertilizer every month or so. Look for a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen, higher in potassium and phosphorus, and contains magnesium, like a 6-6-6-2 (N-P-K-Mg).
A young tree that is planted in the garden should receive 3 applications of 10-20-20 (N-P-K) fertilizer, totaling about 0.5 kg, spread throughout the year.
Mature trees should receive fertilizer just before blooming and after fruiting. Use a 6-6-6-2 or 8-3-9-2 (N-P-K-Mg) fertilizer. The total fertilizer for the year should equal to about 0.5 kg for every 2.5 cm of the diameter of the trunk at 1.2 to 1.5 m off the ground.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Mango tree?
If the soil is rich in your area, it may not be totally necessary to fertilize. However, if the soil is lacking in nutrients, a Mango tree will not be able to produce enough leaves, flowers, and fruits. A soil test is the best way to determine what nutrients are plentiful in the soil and what may be lacking. Nutrient deficiency in Mango tree can cause small leaves and short branches, yellowing or bronze leaves, and more acidic (and therefore less delicious) fruits. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause fruit to fall early or split.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Mango tree?
Provide higher nitrogen and phospherus fertilizer to young Mango tree to support strong leaf and root development for future growth. The best time to use fertilizer is during the spring of the first growing season. It is a good idea to incorporate compost or another fertilizer into the soil prior to or immediately after planting.
For mature plants, supplement every few years as needed throughout the spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer or a fertilizer that addresses specific deficiencies in the soil in your area. Avoid fertilizing Mango tree in the autumn or winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Mango tree?
Avoid fertilizing Mango tree after pruning, when it has disease or insects, or is otherwise stressed. Fertilizer only helps treat insufficient nutrients in soil, but cannot fix other issues that could cause problems in a Mango tree. Proper diagnosis of the issue helps to avoid adding fertilizer when another cause may actually be responsible for the problem.
Don't fertilize Mango tree during winter, or at times during the summer that are particularly hot and dry.
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What type of fertilizer does my Mango tree need?
Most types of Mango tree grow in tropical locations that have a lot of decaying organic matter in the environment naturally. They can benefit from fertilizer to supplement their macronutrient and micronutrient needs. When growing Mango tree for fruit, a high-phosphorus organic fertilizer such as mushroom compost,, bone meal and poultry manure supports the development of delicious and well-formed fruits.
When purchasing fertilizer, there will be a number (NPK) on the label with the ratio of the three macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Low nitrogen is the most common nutrient deficit in soil, but a soil test is the best way to know which types of nutrients might be lacking in your soil and require additional supplementation.
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How do I fertilize my Mango tree?
Follow any instructions on the fertilizer you choose. Using too little fertilizer is always preferable to using too much, so be conservative when adding fertilizers. This is especially important for chemical fertilizers, which are generally very concentrated compared with organic fertilizers.
Liquid fertilizers are usually diluted with water which is then used to water the Mango tree. Granular or dry fertilizers can be spread around the base of the plant, making sure not to allow any fertilizer to come into direct contact with any part of the plant. The most common practice is to use it once every 2-3 weeks in the growing season.
Organic fertilizers can be mixed into soil prior to planting or can be spread in a layer over the top of the soil for newly-planted or mature plants.
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What happens if I fertilize my Mango tree too much?
Too much fertilizer causes Mango tree to turn yellow and drop leaves. It could kill the Mango tree entirely in severe cases. Checking the soil before you fertilize helps to avoid this issue. Fertilizer applied too close to the base of the plant can burn it because of the salts it contains.
The first sign of too much fertilizer is when leaves turn brown at the tips. This is a signal to stop applying fertilizer and flush the water with soil to dilute the accumulated salts. Do a soil test before the next application to see what is happening with the soil. You may need to choose a different type of fertilizer or it may not be needed.
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Sunlight
Mango tree thrives in full sun. Ideally, the tree should receive a minimum of 8-10 hours of sunlight per day. In lower light conditions, your tree isn't likely to flower or produce fruit. It also may not live as long as a tree that receives full sun.


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How many hours of sunlight does Mango tree need to grow?
Tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. These plants are adapted to growing in areas with intense, direct sunlight and require this type of light to thrive. In their natural habitats, they are often found growing in open fields or along the edges of forests, where they receive ample sunlight throughout the day.
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What will happen if Mango tree doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun do not receive enough sunlight, they may become leggy and weak. They may also develop yellow or pale leaves, and may stop producing flowers. Over time, these plants may die if they are not given the amount of direct sunlight they need.
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What will happen if Mango tree gets too much sunlight?
While tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun need a lot of direct sunlight, they can be damaged by too much sun. If these plants are exposed to intense sunlight for prolonged periods, they may develop sunburned leaves or brown spots. They may also become dehydrated if the soil dries out too quickly in full sun.
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How can you protect Mango tree from excessive sunlight?
To protect tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun from excessive sunlight, it is important to choose a location that gets plenty of direct sunlight but also has some protection from the hottest part of the day. If you are growing these plants in containers, you can move them to a more shaded location during the hottest part of the day to protect them from the sun's rays. You can also provide some shade by using a shade cloth or umbrella during the hottest part of the day.
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Cautions and tips
It is important to gradually acclimate tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun gradually to direct sunlight, especially if they have been grown indoors or in a shaded area. Start by placing the plant in direct sunlight for an hour or two each day, gradually increasing the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight over a period of several days or weeks. Be sure to keep an eye on the plant's soil moisture levels when it is exposed to full sun. These plants may require more frequent watering in full sun than they would in a more shaded location. Use a moisture meter or check the soil with your finger to determine when the plant needs to be watered.
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Pruning
Mango tree benefits from annual pruning to keep it manageable. A good time to prune is in the early fall when the tree is not growing, flowering, or fruiting. For mature trees, try to prune just after you've finished harvesting. Dwarf varieties generally require less pruning than standard-sized mango tree.

Is pruning necessary for my Mango tree?
Mango tree need occasional pruning. As with other trees that have fruits, the main reason for pruning is fruit production because the increase in the number of branches and leaves automatically means an increase in the number of fruits. However, pruning the Mango tree has many other benefits that go hand in hand with boosting yields. Pruning helps keep the Mango tree healthy. By removing dead or diseased branches(leaves), suckers that take away resources, and those that impede air circulation, you are giving your tree the best chance to remain vigorous. Pruning helps with fruit picking. Keeping the canopy compact and low enough to harvest makes it easy to pick Mango tree fruits by hand. Pruning makes the tree look better. That is especially true for Mango tree due to its capacity to be a highly decorative specimen tree.
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How can I prune my Mango tree?
Depending on the branches' thickness, you will need a pair of sharp, sturdy pruning shears and a small hand saw. Sterilize all the tools before and after pruning - especially if you are making cuts on two or more plants. That way, you avoid the spread of plant diseases. All pruning cuts should be made at a 45-degree angle whenever possible. There are two types of pruning cuts: A heading cut is when you prune somewhere along the branch, shortening it instead of removing it completely. Besides shortening, this cut also promotes branching - because it “feels” the lack of foliage at the tip of the branch, the tree starts producing new growth below the cut. Thus, the heading cut is made right above a pair of leaves with buds. A thinning cut is when you trim the branch down to another branch or to the trunk. It can mean cutting one shoot of a branch with multiple tips down to the node or cutting the entire branch down to the trunk, or reducing the number of leaves on the tree. As the name suggests, a thinning cut doesn’t promote new growth. When pruning down to the trunk, always make cuts above the branch collar. The branch collar is the wrinkled area around the base of a larger tree limb. The cells created in the collar will ensure proper wound healing without resorting to products. Pruning the Mango tree step-by-step Remove all dead or diseased branches(leaves). Remove the branches that are too thin or dead leaves. That way, they will not spend the plant’s resources while failing to be productive. Prune all crossed branches - those that grow horizontally into the crown Branch crossing the others can interfere with their growth and even damage them, so you should trim them right down to their base (thinning cut). In the same fashion, shorten all the branches that reach the ground or are too low. This process is often called skirting. Inspect the canopy center - if it is too dense, air circulation will become challenging. Cut away the problematic branches(leaves) to create a light, airy center that allows good ventilation.
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What should I do after pruning my Mango tree?
If you keep the branch collars intact as per advice, the cells created in the collar will ensure proper wound healing without you having to resort to any products. Letting the Mango tree heal on its own is the best long-term option. However, despite being able to heal, the larger cuts are sensitive to sunburn. That is especially concerning because Mango tree is used to planted in full sun. Painting the cuts with a 1:1 solution of water and white latex paint for interiors can help protect them from the adverse effect of sun rays.
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Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Mango tree?
Pruning brings beneficial stress to Mango tree, thus encouraging new growth, but overdoing it can have the opposite effect. Cutting out more than ⅓ of the tree stresses it to the point of struggling with the re-growth. Never prune more than ⅓ of the canopy per year. If you are doing extensive pruning, you shouldn’t cut the larger, mature branches all the way down to the trunk or parent branch. Leave about 5 inches or more of the branch so you wouldn’t discourage recovery and new growth. Depending on the branches' thickness, you will need a pair of sharp, sturdy pruning shears and a small hand saw. Sterilize all the tools before and after pruning - especially if you are making cuts on two or more plants. That way, you avoid the spread of plant diseases.
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When should I prune my Mango tree, and when should I not?
Pruning the Mango tree begins in the tree’s second year. In areas with cold winters and frost, the best time to prune Mango tree is in the spring, after fruiting. If you prune in autumn or too early in the winter, the delicate new growth will not have time to harden off enough to withstand cold spells. If your Mango tree has suffered frost damage, removing the dead and damaged wood(leaf) is essential - but not necessarily right away. Never do this until the frost risk has passed completely. In frost-free regions, pruning can be done anytime, as needed, including in the winter. The only exception is the hot summer weather. There are situations when you should not prune, even if it seems logical.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Mango tree is very sensitive to cold temperatures. It should never be grown or left outdoors in areas where temperatures dip below 10 ℃. While it may survive slightly colder conditions, the tree will drop all of its leaves and fruit. Mango tree also needs a good amount of moisture to thrive but won't tolerate soggy soil.

What is the optimal temperature for Mango tree?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Mango tree require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Mango tree doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Mango tree need different temperatures for different seasons?
Mango tree does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Mango tree healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Mango tree?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Mango tree is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Soil
Mango tree prefers fertile, well-drained soil - soggy, flooded soils can promote disease. The tree thrives in soils that are acidic to neutral, with a pH between 4.5 and 7. Elemental sulfur or sphagnum peat moss can be added to your garden before planting to help make the soil more acidic if necessary. For container cultivation, select a peat moss-based potting mix.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Mango tree can be grown from seed. However, there are a few drawbacks to growing from seed as opposed to purchasing a tree. Firstly, mango tree takes a long time to grow from seed - it can take 5 years or more for a seed-grown tree to fruit. Also, seeds from hybrid plants may never bear fruit at all. These include many commercially available varieties.
If you decide to grow mango tree from seed, the first step is to gently scrub all the pulp off. Then, let it dry before removing the husk with scissors. You can then lay your seed in a pot of moist potting mix and cover it with 1.3 cm of soil. Water it lightly every day. It can take 3 weeks or more to germinate depending on the temperature of your house.
Propagation
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While mango tree can be grown from seed, it takes several years, along with very specific growing conditions, for that tree to begin producing fruit. It is much easier and more efficient to purchase a grafted tree instead.
When planting mango tree, select a site with well-drained soil that receives as much sun as possible. Check your soil's pH and, if needed, add elemental sulfur or sphagnum peat moss to make it more acidic. Adding compost is also a good idea because this adds nutrients and improves drainage. Keep the soil moist the first few weeks after planting while your mango tree gets established.
When selecting a container, look for one that's about 2.5 to 8 cm larger in diameter than the size of the current pot or root ball. plant your mango tree in your container using a well-draining, peat moss-based potting mix.

The fruit is generally ready to harvest 3-5 months after the tree has flowered. The color of the fruit will depend on which variety you planted. Some ripen from green to yellow while others may be green and red when ripe. The pointed, bottom end of the fruit should be somewhat rounded and filled out. If you pull on the fruit gently and it comes off easily, it's ripe. Pick the fruit when it's ripe yet still firm. It'll ripen fully in just a few days sitting on your counter.


Transplanting
The best time to transplant mango tree is during the warm embrace of late spring to early summer. this allows the tree to establish itself before winter. Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil, and space the transplants wisely to prevent overcrowding. Remember, a happy mango tree tree leads to a thriving landscape!


More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant spacing, Pollination Difficulty, etc.

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
The mango tree prefers moderate moisture and well-drained soil, as it originates from humid, tropical environments. During the growing season, keep the soil consistently moist but avoid over-watering or waterlogging. In winter, reduce watering slightly to prevent root rot.

Lighting
Full sun
Mango tree has an innate affinity for unobstructed, continual sun exposure - a reflection of its origins in sun-drenched habitats. Unhindered sun intake supports robust growth and contributes to lush foliage and fruit productivity. Over the lifespan of mango tree, consistent sun exposure remains crucial, though limited sun won't be detrimental. Too much or little sun may disturb its health and fruit bearing capacity.

Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
When it comes to temperature, mango tree thrives in climates that range from 68℉ to 100℉ (20℃ to 38℃). Its native growth environment is in tropical regions, so it prefers consistently warm temperatures. However, it can survive brief temperature drops as low as 40℉ (5℃), but only for short periods of time.

Transplant spacing
25-30 feet
The best time to transplant mango tree is during the warm embrace of late spring to early summer. This allows the tree to establish itself before winter. Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil, and space the transplants wisely to prevent overcrowding. Remember, a happy mango tree tree leads to a thriving landscape!

Pollination Difficulty
Normal
Mango tree employs entomophilous pollination, predominantly carried out by industrious bees and diligent flies. These pollinators are irresistibly lured by mango tree's vibrant, fragrant flowers brimming with copious nectar. The strategic positioning of pollen on pollinators boosts cross-pollination, promoting genetic diversity. The pollination predominantly coincides with the flowering period, a bustling spectacle of nature's intricate bio-network.



Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
If you live in a cold climate, your mango tree should be moved outside to a porch or patio during the summer and brought back indoors during the winter.


Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.

2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.

3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.

5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.
To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.

2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.

3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.

4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.

5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.

6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.
While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.

2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.

3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.

4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.
Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.

2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.

3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Mango tree based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.



Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.



Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.



Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.



Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.

Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.

Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance

Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.

Solutions
- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.

Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.

Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.

Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.

Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.

Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
- Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
- Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
- Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.

Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
- Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
- Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
- Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
- Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
- Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.

Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.

Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together

Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About Mango Tree

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
6 m

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
White
Yellow
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
1.5 mm

Plant Height
10 to 20 m
Name story
Mango||Mango tree
The English word "mango" is originated from the Malayalam word mangga via Dravidian-Tamil in which mankay as man for mango tree and kay for fruit or maangaay during the spice trade period with South India in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
Mangos have cosmetic effects and nourish the skin.
Garden Use
Mango tree is a fruit-bearing evergreen tree commonly found in tropical and subtropical gardens. It is prized for its fragrant blossoms and long, dense green leaves. These leaves can be used as fodder for cattle, and is good for boundaries. The timber can be used for furniture. Mango tree is a shade-providing feature plant in tropical gardens Plant with Marigolds or Mint to deter pests.

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Common Problems
Why did my mango tree fail to bloom and produce fruit?


There are a couple of reasons why your mango tree may not have flowered or produced fruit. The first reason may be the age of your tree - it can take up to 5 years to bear fruit. Another reason may be that your tree isn't receiving enough sunlight. If you're growing your mango tree indoors, you may want to purchase a grow light and move it outdoors during the warmer months.
What are there dark spots and dents on my mango tree?


Dark spots on the leaves, flowers, and fruit of mango tree are often caused by anthracnose, a common fungal disease. Anthracnose can be treated with certain copper-based fungicide sprays.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Fruits
1 Fruit drops easily: provide the plant with adequate light, but avoid direct sunlight during the afternoon. Be careful not to over-water or allow the soil to become too dry.
2 Spots or disease on the fruit: avoid getting water on the fruit. When watering, avoid wetting the fruit as much as possible.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Mango Tree

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

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Mango Tree

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.


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How to Care for Mango Tree
Mango tree is a large tree native to the Indian subcontinent. It is most well-known for the tropical fruit it produces, and mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. Mango tree can also be used for wood after the tree’s fruit production is over. This type of wood is highly prized for making musical instruments.

Symbolism
Fruit of love

Every 1-2 weeks
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

Newly-planted mango tree should be watered once a day for a couple of weeks, or as needed, to keep the soil moist. For the first couple of years, your tree should be watered every week or two. Older trees typically only need to be watered in periods of severe drought. Container-planted mango tree should be kept moist for the first few weeks and then occasionally allowed to dry out a little bit.

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Fertilizer

Potted mango tree does best with small applications of liquid fertilizer every month or so. Look for a fertilizer that's low in nitrogen, higher in potassium and phosphorus, and contains magnesium, like a 6-6-6-2 (N-P-K-Mg).
A young tree that is planted in the garden should receive 3 applications of 10-20-20 (N-P-K) fertilizer, totaling about 0.5 kg, spread throughout the year.
Mature trees should receive fertilizer just before blooming and after fruiting. Use a 6-6-6-2 or 8-3-9-2 (N-P-K-Mg) fertilizer. The total fertilizer for the year should equal to about 0.5 kg for every 2.5 cm of the diameter of the trunk at 1.2 to 1.5 m off the ground.

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Sunlight

Mango tree thrives in full sun. Ideally, the tree should receive a minimum of 8-10 hours of sunlight per day. In lower light conditions, your tree isn't likely to flower or produce fruit. It also may not live as long as a tree that receives full sun.

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Pruning

Mango tree benefits from annual pruning to keep it manageable. A good time to prune is in the early fall when the tree is not growing, flowering, or fruiting. For mature trees, try to prune just after you've finished harvesting. Dwarf varieties generally require less pruning than standard-sized mango tree.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Mango tree is very sensitive to cold temperatures. It should never be grown or left outdoors in areas where temperatures dip below 10 ℃. While it may survive slightly colder conditions, the tree will drop all of its leaves and fruit. Mango tree also needs a good amount of moisture to thrive but won't tolerate soggy soil.
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Soil

Mango tree prefers fertile, well-drained soil - soggy, flooded soils can promote disease. The tree thrives in soils that are acidic to neutral, with a pH between 4.5 and 7. Elemental sulfur or sphagnum peat moss can be added to your garden before planting to help make the soil more acidic if necessary. For container cultivation, select a peat moss-based potting mix.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Mango tree can be grown from seed. However, there are a few drawbacks to growing from seed as opposed to purchasing a tree. Firstly, mango tree takes a long time to grow from seed - it can take 5 years or more for a seed-grown tree to fruit. Also, seeds from hybrid plants may never bear fruit at all. These include many commercially available varieties.
If you decide to grow mango tree from seed, the first step is to gently scrub all the pulp off. Then, let it dry before removing the husk with scissors. You can then lay your seed in a pot of moist potting mix and cover it with 1.3 cm of soil. Water it lightly every day. It can take 3 weeks or more to germinate depending on the temperature of your house.

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While mango tree can be grown from seed, it takes several years, along with very specific growing conditions, for that tree to begin producing fruit. It is much easier and more efficient to purchase a grafted tree instead.
When planting mango tree, select a site with well-drained soil that receives as much sun as possible. Check your soil's pH and, if needed, add elemental sulfur or sphagnum peat moss to make it more acidic. Adding compost is also a good idea because this adds nutrients and improves drainage. Keep the soil moist the first few weeks after planting while your mango tree gets established.
When selecting a container, look for one that's about 2.5 to 8 cm larger in diameter than the size of the current pot or root ball. plant your mango tree in your container using a well-draining, peat moss-based potting mix.

The fruit is generally ready to harvest 3-5 months after the tree has flowered. The color of the fruit will depend on which variety you planted. Some ripen from green to yellow while others may be green and red when ripe. The pointed, bottom end of the fruit should be somewhat rounded and filled out. If you pull on the fruit gently and it comes off easily, it's ripe. Pick the fruit when it's ripe yet still firm. It'll ripen fully in just a few days sitting on your counter.

Transplanting

The best time to transplant mango tree is during the warm embrace of late spring to early summer. this allows the tree to establish itself before winter. Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil, and space the transplants wisely to prevent overcrowding. Remember, a happy mango tree tree leads to a thriving landscape!

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
If you live in a cold climate, your mango tree should be moved outside to a porch or patio during the summer and brought back indoors during the winter.

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.

2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.

3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.

5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.
To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.

2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.

3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.

4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.

5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.

6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.
While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.

2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.

3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.

4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.
Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.

2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.

3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Mango tree based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Fruit Spot



Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
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Flower withering



Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Sap-sucking insects



Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Anthracnose



Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
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Black spot



Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.

Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.

Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
- Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
- Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
- Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
- Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
- Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
- Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
- Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
- Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
- Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
- Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
- The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
- Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance

Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.

Solutions
- Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
- Improve air circulation and drainage
- Fertilize as needed
- Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.

Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
- Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
- Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
- Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
- Avoid working around plants when they are wet
- Control weeds
- Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
- Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
- Plant resistant cultivars when available
- Do not clip plants when transplanting
- Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.

Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.

Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.

Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.

Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
- Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
- Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
- Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.

Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
- Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
- Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
- Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
- Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
- Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.

Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.

Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together

Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About Mango Tree

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
6 m

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
White
Yellow
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
1.5 mm

Plant Height
10 to 20 m
Name story
Mango||Mango tree
The English word "mango" is originated from the Malayalam word mangga via Dravidian-Tamil in which mankay as man for mango tree and kay for fruit or maangaay during the spice trade period with South India in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
Mangos have cosmetic effects and nourish the skin.
Garden Use
Mango tree is a fruit-bearing evergreen tree commonly found in tropical and subtropical gardens. It is prized for its fragrant blossoms and long, dense green leaves. These leaves can be used as fodder for cattle, and is good for boundaries. The timber can be used for furniture. Mango tree is a shade-providing feature plant in tropical gardens Plant with Marigolds or Mint to deter pests.

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Common Problems
Why did my mango tree fail to bloom and produce fruit?


There are a couple of reasons why your mango tree may not have flowered or produced fruit. The first reason may be the age of your tree - it can take up to 5 years to bear fruit. Another reason may be that your tree isn't receiving enough sunlight. If you're growing your mango tree indoors, you may want to purchase a grow light and move it outdoors during the warmer months.
What are there dark spots and dents on my mango tree?


Dark spots on the leaves, flowers, and fruit of mango tree are often caused by anthracnose, a common fungal disease. Anthracnose can be treated with certain copper-based fungicide sprays.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Fruits
Branches
Stems
Leaves















Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

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Water


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor potted

In the ground



Essentials
The mango tree prefers moderate moisture and well-drained soil, as it originates from humid, tropical environments. During the growing season, keep the soil consistently moist but avoid over-watering or waterlogging. In winter, reduce watering slightly to prevent root rot.
Watering check today
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning



Noonday



Evening




Requirements

Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
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Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil

1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.

Watering from the bottom

1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.

Soaking the water

1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.

For Mango tree, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler head. This involves using a sprinkler or hose nozzle to evenly spray water over the surface of the plant's soil. The sprinkler head can be adjusted to control the flow of water and the spray range, catering to the watering needs of different-sized plants. Keep them running for 10-20 minutes to ensure that water adequately penetrates the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Mango tree is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves

When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop

When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew

Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Mango tree is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage

Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems

Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
Mango tree has an innate affinity for unobstructed, continual sun exposure - a reflection of its origins in sun-drenched habitats. Unhindered sun intake supports robust growth and contributes to lush foliage and fruit productivity. Over the lifespan of mango tree, consistent sun exposure remains crucial, though limited sun won't be detrimental. Too much or little sun may disturb its health and fruit bearing capacity.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Mango tree thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your mango tree may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Mango tree enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Mango tree thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
When it comes to temperature, mango tree thrives in climates that range from 68℉ to 100℉ (20℃ to 38℃). Its native growth environment is in tropical regions, so it prefers consistently warm temperatures. However, it can survive brief temperature drops as low as 40℉ (5℃), but only for short periods of time.

Regional wintering strategies
Mango tree is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Mango tree indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Mango tree prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Mango tree should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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Transplant spacing

How to Successfully Transplant Mango tree?
The best time to transplant mango tree is during the warm embrace of late spring to early summer. This allows the tree to establish itself before winter. Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil, and space the transplants wisely to prevent overcrowding. Remember, a happy mango tree tree leads to a thriving landscape!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Mango tree?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Mango tree?

The prime time to relocate mango tree is towards the end of spring or early days of summer. This period allows the young tree to adjust more comfortably to its new location. Transplanting mango tree during this time maximizes its growth potential given the favourable weather. This practice ensures optimal root development and overall health of mango tree in its new surroundings.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Mango tree Plants?

When transplanting mango tree, give each plant plenty of room to grow. Space them about 25-30 feet (7.6-9.1 meters) apart—this ensures they can spread their branches without competing for nutrients or sunlight.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Mango tree Transplanting?

For mango tree, well-drained and loamy soil is perfect. Mix in a generous amount of organic matter, like compost or aged manure, to create a nutrient-rich base. Also, add the recommended dose of slow-release granular fertilizer before you plant.
Where Should You Relocate Your Mango tree?

Choose a transplanting location that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily for your mango tree. It'll help them stay strong and produce lots of delicious fruit. Don't worry, with the right spot and care, your tree will thrive!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Mango tree?
Shovel or Garden Spade

You'll use this to dig the mango tree tree out of its current location and also to prepare the new hole where you'll transplant the tree.
Gardening Gloves

To protect your hands from soil, thorns, and potential pests, and to provide a better grip.
Wheelbarrow

To transport the mango tree tree from its old location to its new one.
Watering Can or Garden Hose

To water the tree both before you remove it (to make the process easier) and after transplanting (to help it get settled).”,
How Do You Remove Mango tree from the Soil?
Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the mango tree root ball. If the soil is too compacted, consider breaking it up a bit at the bottom and sides of the hole to make it easier for the roots to expand into their new home.
Position the mango tree tree in the center of the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground.
Use the soil you dug out earlier to back-fill the hole. Tamp the soil lightly around the base to keep the tree standing upright.
Water the mango tree tree generously right after transplanting. This will help the soil settle around the roots and also reduce transplant shock.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Mango tree
Step1 Hole Preparation

Dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the mango tree root ball. If the soil is too compacted, consider breaking it up a bit at the bottom and sides of the hole to make it easier for the roots to expand into their new home.
Step2 Positioning

Position the mango tree tree in the center of the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the ground.
Step3 Back-filling

Use the soil you dug out earlier to back-fill the hole. Tamp the soil lightly around the base to keep the tree standing upright.
Step4 Watering

Water the mango tree tree generously right after transplanting. This will help the soil settle around the roots and also reduce transplant shock.
How Do You Care For Mango tree After Transplanting?
Mulching

Mulch around the base of the mango tree tree. This will help conserve water and suppress weeds. Ensure the mulch doesn't touch the tree's trunk to avoid rot.
Pruning

You can prune the mango tree tree to balance out the root-to-foliage ratio. Remove any damaged or dying branches.
Watering Schedule

After the first watering at the time of transplant, water the mango tree tree thoroughly every other day for the first week, then reduce it to once a week. Be careful to ensure the soil is moist but not waterlogged.
Monitoring

Keep an eye on the mango tree's growth. Yellow leaves might indicate stress from the move. If the tree doesn't seem to be settling in well, consult a local nursery or extension service.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Mango tree Transplantation.
What is the optimal time of year for transplanting mango tree?

The best period for transplanting mango tree is a sweet spot nestled between the decline of spring and the onset of summer.
Why is there wilting on my transplanted mango tree?

This could be due to root shock from transplantation. Ensure adequate water and mitigate sunlight exposure until it stabilizes.
How much spacing do I need between each mango tree when transplanting?

To achieve healthy growth, maintain a gap of 25-30 feet (7.6-9.1 meters) between each mango tree, ensuring ample room for expansion.
What is a common symptom if I overwater my mango tree post-transplant?

Overwatering can result in yellowing leaves. A good indication is to water when the top 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of soil is dry.
Why is it vital to prepare the hole before transplanting mango tree?

A pre-prepared hole ensures a quick transfer, reducing root exposure time. This improves the mango tree's chances of thriving post-transplant.
What are the ideal soil conditions for transplanting mango tree?

Mango tree prefers well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter. The soil pH should be slightly acidic to neutral (5.5-7.5).
My mango tree leaves are curling after transplant. What might be the problem?

Curling leaves can indicate a lack of nutrients or water stress. Check the water and fertilizer schedule to rectify the issue.
Can I prune my mango tree during transplanting?

Pruning is not typically necessary during transplanting. However, removing any dead or unhealthy branches can help the mango tree's overall health.
My mango tree hasn't produced any fruit after transplanting. Why is that?

Fruiting can take 3-5 years post-transplant. Ensure it's getting the right nutrients and care, and be patient.
My mango tree's leaves are losing color after transplant, why?

It could indicate a lack of sunlight or nutrient deficiency. Ensure the mango tree receives 6-8 hours of sunlight daily and proper nutrients.

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