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How to care White Mulberry

A unique and easy-to-grow edible landscaping plant, the white mulberry is prized for its tasty fruits as well as its exquisite ornamental appeal. Originally native to China, this plant was valued for its role in silk production: silkworms will only eat the leaves of white mulberry trees, making them crucial for the product's creation. Ultimately, the trees were sold around the world and are used today in different countries that produce silk.

Symbolism

Happiness, patience, star-crossed love, wisdom, nurturing, a bridge between heaven and earth

Water

Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight

Full sun

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Basic Care Guide

Water

White mulberry needs good irrigation for rapid and smooth growth that helps to yield maximum biomass. Light weekly irrigation is recommended at the time of transplanting that gradually increases with increasing growth. Flowering and fruit set are considered critical stages for irrigating white mulberry. Always apply second irrigation before the previous water drains fully as the stagnation may stop plants growth.

Ground White mulberry watering

If White mulberry is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When White mulberry is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As White mulberry continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving White mulberry a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.

When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week.Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.White mulberry generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water. Usually, the White mulberry will need less water during the winter. Since the White mulberry will drop their leaves and go dormant, Once your White mulberry growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases White mulberry can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.

Potted White mulberry watering

The White mulberry needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the White mulberry to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.

The White mulberry likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.

Underwater and overwater

Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have a White mulberry indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.

An overwatered White mulberry can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.

Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.

You should dig a little deeper when you plant your White mulberry outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering.Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.

The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the White mulberry recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .

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What's the best method to water my White mulberry?

You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember White mulberry prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.

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What should I do if I water White mulberry too much/too little?

An overwatered White mulberry can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.

The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the White mulberry recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .

Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the White mulberry indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.

Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.

You should dig a little deeper when you plant your White mulberry outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.

How often should I water my White mulberry?

The White mulberry likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.

Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.White mulberry generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.

You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.

How much water do I need to give my White mulberry?

The White mulberry generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.

If White mulberry is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When White mulberry is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As White mulberry continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving White mulberry a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.

Should I adjust the watering frequency for my White mulberry according to different seasons or climates?

The White mulberry needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the White mulberry to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.

Usually, the White mulberry will need less water during the winter. Since the White mulberry will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your White mulberry growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases White mulberry can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.

After the spring, you can cultivate your White mulberry and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.

When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.

It's always best to water your White mulberry’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the White mulberry’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.

Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.

What should I be careful with when I water my White mulberry in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?

If planting in the ground, White mulberry mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering White mulberry in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.

The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.

Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.

Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when White mulberry begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.

Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.

Why is watering my White mulberry important?

Watering the White mulberry helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.

The White mulberry thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.

If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.

Fertilizer

White mulberry responds well to both organic and chemical fertilizers. The need for the fertilizers increases with an increase in plant height and vegetative cover and it also depends on the fertility and type of the soil where it grows. Generally for a one-year-old plant, 20 lb of well-decomposed organic matter and 0.5 lb of Phosphorus will be a good ration.

White mulberry is generally grown in order to produce edible fruit, and requires ample nutrients to be able to yield the most fruit with the best flavor. Without enough nutrients, the leaves and flowers may be underdeveloped, and the White mulberry fails to thrive overall. This is why many gardeners prefer to fertilize.

The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give White mulberry some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit.

Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.

The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As White mulberry energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.You can continue to feed White mulberry during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.

Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal. Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the White mulberry you are growing.

Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.

It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your White mulberry may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the White mulberry will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.

Avoid fertilizing White mulberry at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, White mulberry should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that White mulberry can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.

Why do I need to fertilize my White mulberry?

The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give White mulberry some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit. Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.

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When is the best time to fertilize my White mulberry?

The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As White mulberry energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.

You can continue to feed White mulberry during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.

When should I avoid fertilizing my White mulberry?

Avoid fertilizing White mulberry at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.

Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, White mulberry should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.

Finally, remember that White mulberry can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.

What type of fertilizer does my White mulberry need?

Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal.

Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.

How do I fertilize my White mulberry?

Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the White mulberry you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your White mulberry, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial, especially for fruit trees. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Note that a White mulberry should not be fertilized for the first few years.

Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.

What happens if I fertilize my White mulberry too much?

It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your White mulberry may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the White mulberry will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.

If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the White mulberry to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.

Sunlight

White mulberry is tolerable to both light shade and bright sunlight. In the US, it is commonly found in more open conditions than the local red mulberry. It is considered that white mulberry needs 9 hours of daylight during the flowering and fruiting stages of its growth. Germination of seeds was reported high (above 90%) when exposed to indirect sunlight and fluctuating temperatures between 20 ℃ to 30 ℃.

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How much/long should White mulberry get sunlight per day for healthy growth?

For healthy growth, make sure that White mulberry receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.

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What type of sunlight does White mulberry need?

White mulberry does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.

Can sunlight damage White mulberry? How to protect White mulberry from the sun and heat damage?

White mulberry planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive White mulberry during extreme weather events.

Does White mulberry need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect White mulberry from the sun?

While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for White mulberry, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.

If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for White mulberry to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.

To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.

What will happen if White mulberry gets inadequate sunlight?

When White mulberry receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If White mulberry receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.

Does White mulberry need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?

Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young White mulberry and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. White mulberry fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.

Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and White mulberry?

Recently transplanted White mulberry will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of White mulberry drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.

White mulberry that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.

Pruning

Pruning should be done before the onset of winter or at the start of spring. Winter pruning helps in eliminating the risk of pests and disease for the upcoming spring growth. Pruning gives a proper shape and triggers growth for the next season. Remove plants debris and un-decomposed matter from your garden or field after pruning.

Do I need to prune my White mulberry?

Unkempt, wild White mulberry have a hard time bearing fruit, and for good reason. When White mulberry isn’t pruned, they have issues ranging from sunlight, weight distribution, and even fungi and other pests. Pruning does a lot to help remedy these issues, as well as to provide for the aesthetic appeal of the trees themselves. Pruning is also a basic necessity surrounding the general growth of White mulberry. If White mulberry get too large, they begin to fall apart fairly quickly. Losing branches to weight distribution issues can be fatal for White mulberry, especially those in drier climates. Pruning helps to reaffirm the crown’s structure and provide support to key branches.

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When should I prune my White mulberry?

White mulberry should be pruned in the late winter, when there are no signs of any new growth yet. During this time, White mulberry is dormant, and therefore can sustain itself better without extra growth to maintain. During this time, you can cut away the branches that are most cumbersome. During the summer months, when new growth shoots are sprouting up every which way, lots of the green shoots will need to be trimmed. While some of them may prove to be useful, most of the weak and thin branches that come out before fruiting season will need to be cut away in order to produce better fruit on established branches.

How can I prune my White mulberry?

In order to properly prune the White mulberry, you need a basic set of tools and skills. Fortunately, most of the White mulberry are pruned more or less the same; for this reason, getting the hang of White mulberry pruning is fairly easy and time-efficient. It boils down to timing, selection, and methodology. Tools Before you start cutting away at your White mulberry, first determine which kind of tools you’re working with. Most of the White mulberry can be pruned with hand shears or loppers, but some may require a pole saw (for extra tall or hard-to-reach areas). Don’t neglect the open wounds where you prune, either; larger cuts should be covered with honey or pine sap to help deter common White mulberry diseases and pests. How to Prune To prune the White mulberry, you’ll need your shears to be clean and sharp. Disinfect them with either warm, soapy water or a disinfectant like rubbing alcohol to remove any possible pathogens that may be hitching a ride on the surface of your shears. This is the first and easiest step to prevent plant infections from spreading. Then, you can start to cut away branches. First, trim away any obviously dead, dying or diseased branches. After that, trim off those grows upward towards the top of the crown or downward towards the ground. These branches will grow to become a nuisance, and restrict both airflow and sunlight to the inner branches where fruit will suffocate. Remove any suckers that grow from the base of the trunk, as well. Try to leave larger branches and remove smaller ones that cross over or intercept larger branches in any way. Instead of shortening branches, remove entire branches from their bases so that they won’t continue to grow in the way. Use pine sap or honey to close off wounds where branches have been cut to help the tree heal faster.

What should I do after pruning my White mulberry?

Check the tree to be sure that you have pruned away any branches that might grow into an issue in the future. Snip away any excess stragglers that you may have missed, then be sure to remove all of the fallen debris from the tree’s area to prevent undergrowth from taking over. It’s a good idea to use gloves, as White mulberry bark can be rough in places.

How can I train my White mulberry seedling?

To train the White mulberry from a seedling size into a mature tree, you’ll need to plan out which branches to keep and which to lose in order to maintain a good balance of branches that stem up and out at an angle of at least 45 degrees. Trim away any branches that grow vertically in any direction as the seedling grows. Branches that grow horizontally will produce more fruits, while those that grow vertically will not carry much fruit and will impede the growth of important branches. Over time, the branches you choose in the beginning will grow up to become key branches that support most of the tree’s fruiting and further branching efforts! Also to note is that some of the White mulberry may split down the road if they’re not properly trained as seedlings. If there is a “Y” division early on, it’s best to choose the thicker side of the split to keep, then cut away the thinner side of the split back to the base.

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

**white mulberry is adaptable to a variety of temperature fluctuations**. At one side it grows in the subtropical humid climate of Alabama with very long summers and short winters and on the other side it is even successfully growing in Massachusetts where the temperature drops to -5 ℃ in winter and rises to 20 ℃ in summer. Another example of successful growing of white mulberry is North Alabama where it grows at 7 ℃ in winters and 27 ℃ during summer. Optimum rainfall required for its successful growing is 1 to 1.5 m whereas **it can tolerate a wide range of annual rainfall** that ranges from 29 cm in Central Arizona to 1.4 m in North Alabama.

What is the optimal temperature for White mulberry?

The best temperature for White mulberry to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:

Perfect：65~80℉(18~27℃)

Highest：85~95℉(30~35℃)

Lowest：-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below

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Should I adjust the temperature for White mulberry during different growing phases?

Research shows that White mulberry will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.

How can I keep White mulberry warm in cold seasons?

White mulberry can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.

What damage will White mulberry suffer if the temperature is too high/low?

Greater harm will come to White mulberry if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.

If White mulberry gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.

If White mulberry gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.

What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for White mulberry?

Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping White mulberry healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.

How can I keep White mulberry warm without a heat pad?

Due to the cold tolerance of White mulberry, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.

How can I provide White mulberry with an adequate temperature condition?

To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant White mulberry in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If White mulberry is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.

How can I save White mulberry from temperature damage?

During the summer or times of high heat, give White mulberry extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.

Should I adjust the temperature for White mulberry in different seasons?

White mulberry is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.

Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for White mulberry?

If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant White mulberry in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.

Soil

White mulberry is well adapted to a variety of soil types and can grow on sandy soil, rich loamy soil, silt loam, and clay loam anyhow it grows best in moist, well-drained organic-rich soil for its maximum yielding abilities. It's growing in many areas due to their varying soil nature showing great tolerance. White mulberry ideally grows in the soil having pH ranges of 6.5-7 while it shows resistance to acidic soil that can be corrected with the addition of lime to bring pH in the desirable range.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Stem cuttings are recommended for rapid mulberry propagation compared to its growth through seeds. During an active season, cuttings are made having 20 cm length, 1.5 cm diameter with 4-5 active buds otherwise 6-8 months old cuttings are planted keeping a plant to plant distance at 1.5 m and 91 cm between the rows. Cuttings are placed in an individual pit measuring 30 cm in depth and width with a space between the pits 90 cm.

Grafting is the most common way to propagate fruit trees, which can help you get plants with good flavor and yield in the shortest possible time. While the precise timing for when you should graft a plant will vary based on the type of plant in question, it is generally best to graft most plants from late winter to early spring. It is also crucial to ensure that the plant onto which you are attaching your scion is in a stage of active growth. The seedlings that have just started to grow cannot be grafted until it's 2 years old. Anyone who wants to graft a plant will be wise to set themselves up with the best tools for the job before they get started. Here is a quick list of the items you’ll need to graft a plant. What you will need:

A sharp cutting tool, preferably a grafting knife
Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
Grafting wax
Twine or string
Grafting tape

Steps: The size of the understock determines which of the two basic types of grafting teachniques should be used in propagation. A graft may be made to join a nearly equal sized scion and understock together, or several small scions to a larger understock as in cleft or bark grafting. Grafts with similar scion and understock sizes Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties. The scion and the understock should be of the similar size of thickness. Step 2: Cutting the stock and scion. Create similar slanted cuts at the bottom of the scion and the top of stock. Split the incision along the longitudinal direction in the middle of the bevel of the understock and scion body for better contact of the incision(Figure 1). Step 3: Match up the cuts on the scion and the rootstock(Figure 1). Step 4: Use your twine to secure the connection between the branch and the rootstock. Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds. Grafts with small scions and large understocks Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties and needs to be larger than the the scion. The scion should preferably be a branch over one year old. Step 2: After removing the leaves and buds from the understock seedling stem. Use a razor blade to make avertical cut from the stem cross-section from the tip. The bottom of the scion should be cut in the shape of a wedge. A slight outward tilt of the scion facilitates wound contact. Leaving a maximum of 3 buds at the end and cut off excess buds on the top. Step 3: Match up the cuts on the grafted branch and the rootstock. Step 4: Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds. Step 5: Wrap the graft with grafting tape to protect it while it heals(Figure 2). Caution: Grafting between the same species is usually successful. Grafting between different genera is occasionally successful. And grafting between families usually cannot be performed. It can also be propagated by the means of layering. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!

A sharp, sanitized knife
Peat moss for wrapping
Plastic wrap for wrapping
Rubber bands or twist ties
(optional) aluminum foil
(optional) plant growth hormones

Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.

Prepare the land by deep digging (30 cm) using plowing tool to plow and bring it to fine tilth with the cross plow of power tiller at the start of spring. Give a deep dig/plow two times in both the directions of the field. Prepare beds measuring 3 m long and 1.2 m wide. Prepare water channels (20 cm in depth and 30 cm width), followed by applying some manure in each bed. Transplanting starts in spring and continues till early summer. Mulching will help in moisture retention and stop weed growth. Watering immediately after transplanting is good favor with Mulberry.

Best option to harvest white mulberry is handpicking, otherwise lay a sheet or a net trap under tree and shack to pick from the sheet.

Potting Suggestions

Use a high quality potting medium and feed regularly during the growing season.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions

Inspect your plants for any sign of pests and disease or weeds, at regular intervals. Always be prepared for any climate changes or disorder that may affect your plants. Keep on moving weeds from your field especially under the plant canopy. Irrigate white mulberry when needed. Spray against any pests and diseases following the package instructions.

Summer

Fall

Winter

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

1

A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.

2

Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.

3

Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.

4

Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.

5

Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

1

Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.

2

Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.

3

Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.

4

Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

1

Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.

2

At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.

3

If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for White mulberry based on 10 million real cases

Brown spot

This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Leaf beetles

Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Sap-sucking insects

Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.

Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.

Black spot

Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.

Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.

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More About White Mulberry

Plant Type

Tree

Lifespan

Perennial

Spread

9 to 15 m

Bloom Time

Spring

Flower Color

Green

Yellow

Leaf Color

Green

Flower Size

1 to 3.5 cm

Plant Height

9 to 20 m

Name story

White mulberry

Morus alba is a plant with a history of over 4000 years. Before the fruit has ripened, the berries look like a cute and attractive cluster of milky-white grapes. Moreover, the male catkin is covered with a thick, white silk. Hence the common name white mulberry is given based on its special appearance.

Usages

Environmental Protection Value

It can resist smoke, dust and toxic gases.

Beauty Improvement Value

Often used in extract-form in skincare products, due to its soothing, brightening and anti-aging properties.

Garden Use

White mulberry is a deciduous woody tree commonly found in gardens. It is prized for its abundant yellow foliage in autumn. Its deep root system makes it suitable for erosion control whilst its far-reaching branches see it planted as a shade-providing ornamental. White mulberry is often used in Japanese and cottage style gardens. Plant shade-loving begonias or snowdrops for color contrast.

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Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.

Common Problems

What’s the difference between three common mulberries?

White Mulberry has its root from Asia and is one of the famous species for silkworm rearing. Black Mulberry was brought from southwest Asia to Europe for its fruit. Red Mulberry is a local variety that originated from eastern North America. Color of the fruits from all three varieties is also confusing but they differ in taste. White Mulberry is sweeter while Red & Black Mulberry has sharp bitterness combined with a sweetness that makes them more popular among the US gardeners. Black Mulberry is juicier and large in the US climate whereas White Mulberry has the longest fruit size.

What are the most popular white mulberry cultivars in the US?

Here is a list of common cultivars of White Mulberry. For a further description of the varieties, check with your local supplier. Beautiful day, Downing, Issai, Florida Giant, Kokuso, Middleton, Riviera, Tatarica, Tehama, Weeping, Sweet Lavender, Northrop and Four Seasons and many more.

Plants with Same Care Needs

Black cherry

Black cherry (Prunus serotina) is a medium-sized, deciduous forest tree native to the Americas, but also naturalized in parts of Europe. It features inflorescence with small white blooms that become clusters of dark cherries, edible when pitted. Mature trees have gray-to-black, distinctly crackled bark. The glossy leaves are poisonous to livestock. It is a highly reproductive pioneer species with invasive potential.

Bloom Time

Spring

Common dandelion

Taraxacum officinale, widely known as common dandelion is a herbaceous perennial that can be found in temperate regions all over the world, in habitats with moisty soils. The most popular feature of this plant are its fruits - furry spheres that are easily carried by the wind. Although it is generally considered a weed, common dandelion is actually edible and very nutritious.

Bloom Time

Spring

Common hackberry

Common hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) is a medium-sized deciduous tree, native to North America. It looks similar to elms and some other hackberry trees at first glance, but you can distinguish it by looking at the bark - if it is verrucous and has corky texture, then it is probably common hackberry.

Bloom Time

Spring

Common buckthorn

Rhamnus cathartica, colloquially known as common buckthorn, is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Europe. This plant is hazardous to humans and most animals; all parts of it are mildly poisonous. The fast-growing common buckthorn is considered an invasive species in certain parts of North America.

Bloom Time

Spring

Arborvitae

Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis) is a small- to medium-sized evergreen conifer native to North America. This tree can be found in a variety of environments, including forested wetlands and along cliffs. Essential oils are produced using arborvitae and it also finds use as an ornamental plant. Due to its increasing popularity in landscaping, more compact plants have been used to develop smaller strains.

Bloom Time

Spring

Sugarberry

Celtis laevigata, commonly known as sugarberry, is a deciduous medium-sized tree native to North America. It is often found near water - on floodplains, along rivers and streams. There are many species of birds, small mammals, and insects that use sugarberry's fruits and leaves as a source of food, which makes it a very important part of the ecosystem.

Bloom Time

Spring

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How to care White Mulberry

Symbolism

Basic Care Guide

Water

Water

Never miss a care task again!

Fertilizer

Fertilizer

Sunlight

Know the light your plants really get.

Pruning

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Soil

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Propagation

Potting Suggestions

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions

Summer

Fall

Winter

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

Common Pests & Diseases

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

More About White Mulberry

Name story

Usages

Find your perfect green friends.

Common Problems

What’s the difference between three common mulberries?

What are the most popular white mulberry cultivars in the US?

Plants with Same Care Needs

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App

How to care White Mulberry

Symbolism

Basic Care Guide

Water

Water

Never miss a care task again!

Fertilizer

Fertilizer

Sunlight

Know the light your plants really get.

Pruning

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Soil

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Propagation

Potting Suggestions

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions

Summer

Fall

Winter

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

Common Pests & Diseases

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

More About White Mulberry

Name story

Usages

Find your perfect green friends.

Common Problems

What’s the difference between three common mulberries?

What are the most popular white mulberry cultivars in the US?

Plants with Same Care Needs