To water Sweet basil, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Sweet basil is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Sweet basil as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Sweet basil that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Sweet basil, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.


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Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to care Sweet Basil
Sweet basil is a species of mint plant native to Asia and Africa. It is a popular houseplant, and thrives when it receives plenty of regular sun and water. This plant is also easy to transfer from one soil environment to another. The edible sweet basil leaves can be eaten fresh or dried with pizza, salads, soups, teas, and many other dishes.

Symbolism
good wishes, love

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun





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Basic Care Guide

Water
Sweet basil likes a moist environment. Frequent watering is required for seedlings to keep the soil moist. Established plants should be watered once every 4-6 days in spring and fall, and every 2-4 days in summer. In winter, move inside and reduce watering.
Also, it is preferable to use rainwater and distilled water, because tap water may contain a lot of calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts, and long-term use tends to compact the soil. Inserting a finger into the flowerpot soil. If the soil is particularly hard and dry, it needs to be watered immediately. If the soil is soft and wet, no immediate watering is required.
Water
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What is the best way to water my Sweet basil?
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What should I do if I water my Sweet basil too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Sweet basil is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Sweet basil is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Sweet basil that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Sweet basil, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
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How often should I water my Sweet basil?
Sweet basil needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Sweet basil. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Sweet basil grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Sweet basil that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Sweet basil a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Sweet basil need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Sweet basil. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Sweet basil. Typically, you should give your Sweet basil about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Sweet basil in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Sweet basil enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Sweet basil. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Sweet basil are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Sweet basil may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Sweet basil as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
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How should I water my Sweet basil through the seasons?
You can expect your Sweet basil’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Sweet basil, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Sweet basil that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Sweet basil is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
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How should I water my Sweet basil at different growth stages?
Sweet basil will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Sweet basil as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Sweet basil will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Sweet basil will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
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What's the difference between watering Sweet basil indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Sweet basil grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Sweet basil needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Sweet basil water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Fertilizer
An appropriate amount of quick-acting fertilizer can make sweet basil grow better based on the principle of less fertilizer applied more frequently. In the case of fertilizer deficiency, sweet basil will be short. In the prosperous growing period, organic fertilizer can be applied once every two weeks. Observe its growth and keep it growing healthily.
During spring and fall, the roots, stem, and leaves grow and the flower buds differentiate. In summer, the temperature is high and the water evaporation is fast. Liquid fertilizer should be applied in small amounts but frequently. In winter, the temperature is low and the plant grows slowly or even stops growing, so no fertilizer is required generally.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Sweet basil?
All plants need nutrients to grow, but some types are able to take what they need and don’t need any supplementation with fertilizers. Sweet basil, like other plants, use nutrients to support growth and all internal processes.
Each of the main nutrients that plants use (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) contribute to one or more of a plant’s essential functions, and in the case of foliage it is nitrogen that provides the most support. It can be difficult for a Sweet basil to get enough nitrogen from the soil, which is why many gardeners prefer to supplement by feeding Sweet basil with a source of nitrogen.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Sweet basil?
Sweet basil generally grows well, but a fertilizer can be applied about once a month to give the plant a boost when it is actively growing. You should fertilize Sweet basil about once a month only during the spring and summer months, but not during fall and winter when it becomes less active and does not use as many nutrients.
You’ll know when to start fertilizing Sweet basil if you see signs of new growth. The fertilization schedule remains the same whether the plant is grown outside or indoors in a container. However, if your Sweet basil is in a container, you probably will not need to fertilize for the first one to two months. Potting soil made for container plants already contains plenty of nutrients, so you should only start to fertilize after your plant has been in the same soil for a while.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Sweet basil?
Never fertilize your Sweet basil if it is not healthy, for example if it has developed a disease or has insect pests on it. Also do not fertilize a dehydrated plant, since the fertilizer will make this problem even worse. Only fertilize healthy plants.
Do not splash fertilizer onto the leaves or stem of this plant when watering, since it can cause burned spots. Be careful not to allow the fertilizer to make direct contact with the plant, unless you are usually a special fertilizer designed to be applied to the foliage.
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What type of fertilizer does my Sweet basil need?
Fertilizers contain high levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, along with other essential nutrients such as iron, manganese and zinc. These are all necessary elements that promote growth in Sweet basil.
A balanced fertilizer works well for Sweet basil, for example an all-purpose fertilizer with a 10-10-10 NPK number. For natural fertilizers, blood meal or worm castings work well. You may also choose a fertilizer that is higher in nitrogen than other nutrients, such as fish fertilizer. Nitrogen provides support to leaves, which are the main feature that people want from Sweet basil. There is no point in providing a lot of supplements for flowers or seeds if that is not your purpose in growing the plant.
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How do I fertilize my Sweet basil?
Apply fertilizer based on the instructions on the particular type you have purchased. It is generally a good idea to start with half-strength fertilizer to avoid accidentally over-fertilizing your Sweet basil. Since this plant requires frequent fertilization, it is common to accidentally fertilize too much. Remember that it’s always easier to add more fertilizer than it is to try to save an over-fertilized plant.
Don’t apply fertilizer to dry soil - it should already be at least somewhat moist before fertilizing. This helps the fertilizer absorb more easily and helps avoid fertilizer burn. You should also water after applying dry fertilizers to your soil.
Some fertilizers are meant to be mixed into the soil when planting, while others are applied on top of the soil and then watered in. For most types of Sweet basil, a water soluble fertilizer is an easy choice. Simply mix the fertilizer solution into your watering can at the recommended dosage for Sweet basil and then water the plant as usual. Slow-release granules or fertilizer spikes can also work well if you prefer not to remember to fertilize monthly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Sweet basil too much?
Over-fertilization leads to a build-up of salts in the soil which leads to a lack of vitality overall and pale coloration in the leaves. Leaves may also wilt or develop brown tips as the excess salt from the fertilizer tries to make its way out of the leaves.
Too much fertilizer makes it impossible for the plant to take up water and nutrients, which will eventually kill it if you don’t take steps to save your Sweet basil. If the Sweet basil is in a container, you could either remove it from the pot and repot it in fresh potting mix, or flush out the soil by running a lot of water through and letting it drain out thoroughly.
If your Sweet basil is outdoors, the same theory applies, although it can be more difficult to flush outdoor soil. Water thoroughly and hold off on fertilizing again for a while. You may want to perform a soil test before you add any more fertilizer to make sure you don’t provide too much of any one nutrient.
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Sunlight
Sweet basil is a full sun plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the whole growth period. It is best placed where it is exposed to sunlight for more than 6 hours average daily. Without enough sunlight, photosynthesis will be inhibited and accumulated nutrients reduced.
If the average daily sunlight exposure is less than 4 hours, thin leaves and light aroma may result. However, sweet basil should be properly shaded in hot summers, especially the seedlings.


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How much sunlight should Sweet basil get per day to grow healthily?
You must expose the plants to at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily. They prefer more exposure to the morning light, especially in the summer. The Sweet basil needs full sun and more sunlight that it can get. The more light these species get, the more they can manufacture food, produce beautiful blooms, and survive.
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What type of sunlight does Sweet basil need?
The Sweet basil grows best under full sunlight. It's best not to crowd them together so they can get exposure to the sun evenly. The leaves shouldn't be starved with sunlight. If planted in pots, try to expose the herbaceous flowers in windows with direct sun and ensure they receive full sunlight regardless of the months.
They don't tend to do well in partial or filtered light as this will not produce strong stems and healthy flowers. It's best if the Sweet basil is always exposed to the sun.
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Can sunlight hurt plants? How to protect Sweet basil from sun and heat damage?
When the temperature rises above 90℉(32℃), the Sweet basil can get damaged by extreme temperatures, especially if they are exposed to many hours of sun. It's always ideal for providing some shade from the light in the afternoon in the summer. It's always important to keep in mind that the sunlight in the summer is stronger than the one in the winter. Sunlight exposure is also 50% longer in the summer than in the winter.
If the Sweet basil is too stressed with sunlight, you might want to keep them fully hydrated. Water them when the top of the soil is about 2 inches dry, and move the plants indoors if it's too hot outside. This is the case if they are planted in containers.
It can be normal for the plant leaves to wilt during the day. Generally, they can recover at night. However, when you notice that the Sweet basil is still drooping, this means that the plant is losing water fast, and you need to water them.
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Should I protect Sweet basil from sun exposure?
The Sweet basil does not need any protection from the sun. In fact, they love the sun, and some species are heliotropic. Plant them in south-facing gardens whenever possible so they can be exposed from morning to afternoon. While the sun can benefit them, some may experience a sunburn. You might offer protection from the afternoon and midday sun through a shade of a tree or a wall.
Growing the Sweet basil in shady areas is impossible because the larger flowers would require a lot of energy to grow and produce. Always provide the lighting conditions and set them in an area with full sun for best results.
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What will happen if Sweet basil gets inadequate sunlight?
When the Sweet basil does not get adequate sunlight, or they are not placed in full sun locations, it's worth noting that the photosynthetic process will slow down. A lack of sunlight will cause the stems to become more leggy since they become thin and long since they tend to seek too much sunlight. They will not bloom and produce seeds in the shade.
Inadequate sunlight will also mean that the older leaves can die, the color of the new ones is lighter than the old foliage, and the new growth is smaller than the last ones.
The Sweet basil indeed loves the sun so much. However, they can wilt when exposed to excessive heat and ultraviolet light during the extreme summer months, so be careful. You might want to cover them with a net that has a green shade, especially in the summer, to prevent the leaves and the flowers from scorching. When they are indoors, reduce the heat with the help of a fan.
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Does Sweet basil need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
When the Sweet basil is growing, they need more light than their mature counterparts. The younger ones should receive adequate light, but they might not be prepared for sudden full sunlight, especially if they are grown in a nursery. They can be more sensitive to the summer sun, so the lighting should be gradual and slow.
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How much light does Sweet basil need for photosynthesis?
During summer or late spring, the Sweet basil needs 6 to 8 hours of direct light every single day. This is whether they are planted outdoors. If the Sweet basil is planted in pots or you're growing them in the winter, they need direct fluorescent lights that help them grow better. Make sure to place them in an indoor area where they are facing south or east so they can have enough sunlight for photosynthesis.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Sweet basil?
When transplanting the plants, they should not be exposed to sudden sunlight. Give the Sweet basil to grow and mature before transplanting outside. Some species of herbaceous plants can grow taller and might cast a shade on other young plants. Allow between 80 to 100 days of growing season before planting another batch to ensure that every plant receives more than enough sunlight for at least 6 hours a day.
Make sure that the Sweet basil receives the best light possible, especially if it's planted in a nursery. These are sun-loving plants, but too much sunlight with a very hot temperature is also detrimental to their growth. Indoor lights should be replaced with natural sunlight as much as possible since these species crave this every day.
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Pruning
Sweet basil can be pruned when they reach 20 cm in height. Yellow leaves, once found, should be cut off promptly. If the plant grows too exuberantly and the ornamental effect deteriorates, redundant branches can be cut off. After pruning, add a small amount of slow-release fertilizer. Sweet basil usually dies after the seeds are ripened, and its life can be extended by cutting off the flowers to prevent the seeds from ripening.

Is pruning necessary for my Sweet basil?
Sweet basil is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Sweet basil to stay away from pathogens infection.
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How do I prune my Sweet basil?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Sweet basil above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
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Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Sweet basil?
Sweet basil leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
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Are there any tips for pruning my Sweet basil?
- Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds;
- Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water.
- Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
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When should/shouldn't I prune my Sweet basil?
Expect to prune your Sweet basil every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
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What should I look for when pruning my Sweet basil in different seasons?
Because Sweet basil is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Sweet basil is native to Tropical Asia and likes a warm and humid environment. It is more resistant to heat than cold, and to drought than waterlogging. The optimum growth temperature is between 22 to 28 ℃ in the daytime and 13 to 18 ℃ at night. The leaves will turn yellow if the ambient temperature is lower than 13 ℃. Damage may be caused to the plant if the temperature is lower than 10 ℃, and the leaves will droop if the temperature is higher than 35 ℃.

What is the optimal temperature for Sweet basil?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Sweet basil require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Sweet basil doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Sweet basil need different temperatures for different seasons?
Sweet basil does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Sweet basil healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Sweet basil?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Sweet basil is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Soil
Sweet basil is a deep-rooted plant, with the roots growing up to 51 to 102 cm deep. Therefore, well-drained, fertile, loose sandy loam or humus soil is the best culture soil. Potted plants can be planted in a mixed culture of peat and vermiculite at 2:1, or garden soil and fully decomposed organic fertilizer at 2:1.
Sweet basil does not have strict requirements on soil conditions. It can be planted in both acid and alkaline soil and can tolerate pH values of 5-8, but neutral soil is the best.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Sweet basil can be propagated by cuttage or sowing. Sowing is the main cultural method for families.
Propagation
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Sweet basil is generally sown in spring and fall, and the best time for sowing is a sunny morning. The soil can be exposed to sunlight before sowing to kill harmful microorganisms in the soil. Select plump, pest-free seeds, spread them evenly in the soil, cover them with a layer of 5 mm thick soil, and spray water gently. If you worry about uneven sowing, you can mix the seeds with fine soil in advance and then spread them in the garden.
The best temperature for sowing sweet basil is about 20 ℃, and the seedlings are expected to grow in 4-5 days. When they grow 1-2 leaves, poor or excessively dense seedlings may be removed, and the spacing of seedlings set to about 3 to 4 cm. When 8-10 leaves grow out on one plant, the plant can be transplanted. Keep plants spaced to about 25 cm apart.

Sweet basil can be used as an ornamental plant or picked as a fragrant herb to cook with at any time. Its leaves can be harvested before flowers bloom. Cut leaves with a small knife and try to avoid damaging the roots. Its leaves can be used in cold dishes or salads, or to remove the fishy taste of seafood, and dried leaves can be used as a spice. Its stem, leaves, and flowers can be harvested before blooming. They can be used to extract essential oils. It is best to harvest them at 9:00-17:00 after 2-3 consecutive sunny days. Its seeds are generally be harvested in late summer.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Sweet basil is resistant to heat, so it is best to move plants indoors in winter. Sweet basil should be properly shaded in summer; seedlings especially should not be directly exposed to strong sunlight. With hot temperatures and fast water evaporation, summer is also its most intense growing period. Use a lower concentration of liquid fertilizer in summer and fertilize more often to supplement enough nutrients and water for the plant. Smooth drainage should be ensured in summer because high humidity and poor drainage can easily cause the plant to be infected with fungus leaf spot.


Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
continue to care for your plant by watering and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your annuals to keep them moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, deadhead spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Sweet basil based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.



Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.



Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.

Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface

Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.

Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Sweet Basil

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial, Biennial

Spread
30 cm

Bloom Time
Summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple

Leaf Color
Green
Purple

Flower Size
Inflorescence 3 cm to 8 cm

Plant Height
20 to 150 cm
Name story
Sweet basil
In European cuisine, it will be like losing its soul when there is no basil in the dish. No matter what recipe it is, you will like to add a little of it into the dish. It is because it gives off a strong and intense smell yet it adds a hint of sweetness into the dish. Hence, it is called Sweet basil.
Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
Sweet basil can be made into essential oil to moisturize and tighten skin, balance oil secretion, and refresh the mind with its cooling smell.
Garden Use
Anyone with an herb garden is likely to have at least one sweet basil plant growing. It is a staple of food and herb gardens because of its aromatic properties and resistance to deer and rabbits. Sweet basil can be grown by other herbs or veggies, such as tomatoes and peppers, and will naturally repel insects.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves turn yellow or wither?


There are many reasons for yellowing leaves. Leaves turn yellow if the temperature is lower than 13 ℃. Therefore, it is best to move plants inside in winter if the ambient temperature is too low. If the soil is dry for a long time or the soil is poorly drained, diseases may result. Keep soil moist and well-drained. If they don't get enough sunlight, plants can't produce enough energy through photosynthesis, and leaves turn yellow or wither. Your plant should be exposed to 6 or more hours of sunlight. It is also possible that insufficient soil fertility causes the leaves to turn yellow or wither, and a suitable amount of organic fertilizer can be applied to improve the plant's condition.
Why do the leaf tips wither?


Leaf tips can wither from insufficient water or sunlight. The flowerpot may be changed and the water amount should be well controlled. Lighting should be adjusted in summer and winter to avoid blazing sunlight in summer and ensure sufficient sunlight in winter.
Why do the leaves curl and shrink?


If the plant cannot obtain sufficient water, leaves shrink due to water shortage, so you must control how much water it gets. It is also possible that the root got damaged during a flowerpot change. The plant absorbs water from the soil through the root, so the root damage can cause water shortage. It will take some time for the plant to recover in such a case. It may also be affected by insects, such as aphids, which feed on the sap in the plant, causing the young leaves to curl and shrink. Insects can be washed away with water and/or special pesticides applied.
Why doesn't the plant have an aroma, or only a light aroma?


The aromas of sweet basil vary from variety to variety, just like that of the lilac flower. Some aromas are slightly peppermint, slightly sweet, or slightly spicy. Light aromas may be caused by insufficient sunlight or fertilizer. The average time of daily sunlight exposure should be above 4 hours and slow-release fertilizer should be added.
Why doesn't it ever bloom?


Insufficiency of sunlight or fertilizer can keep a plant from blooming. Put the plant in a bright, ventilated place, and apply a proper amount of nutrient solution each time you water. It may also be due to the long-term use of tap water with high mineral salts, so it is recommended to water with rainwater or distilled water instead of tap water.
Why do the roots of sweet basil rot?


Sweet basil is a deep-rooted plant; roots grow up to 51 to 102 cm long. Therefore, the size and depth of the flowerpot must be considerable. In addition, the growth of the root is closely related to the quality of soil, so poor drainage, permeability, and improper watering can cause the roots to rot. Sandy loam, or soil with good drainage and permeability, is preferred. Water more in summer and less in winter.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ





How to care Sweet Basil
Sweet basil is a species of mint plant native to Asia and Africa. It is a popular houseplant, and thrives when it receives plenty of regular sun and water. This plant is also easy to transfer from one soil environment to another. The edible sweet basil leaves can be eaten fresh or dried with pizza, salads, soups, teas, and many other dishes.

Symbolism
good wishes, love

Water
Twice per week

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Sweet basil likes a moist environment. Frequent watering is required for seedlings to keep the soil moist. Established plants should be watered once every 4-6 days in spring and fall, and every 2-4 days in summer. In winter, move inside and reduce watering.
Also, it is preferable to use rainwater and distilled water, because tap water may contain a lot of calcium, magnesium, and other mineral salts, and long-term use tends to compact the soil. Inserting a finger into the flowerpot soil. If the soil is particularly hard and dry, it needs to be watered immediately. If the soil is soft and wet, no immediate watering is required.

Water
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Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Sweet basil?

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How often should I water my Sweet basil?


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Fertilizer

An appropriate amount of quick-acting fertilizer can make sweet basil grow better based on the principle of less fertilizer applied more frequently. In the case of fertilizer deficiency, sweet basil will be short. In the prosperous growing period, organic fertilizer can be applied once every two weeks. Observe its growth and keep it growing healthily.
During spring and fall, the roots, stem, and leaves grow and the flower buds differentiate. In summer, the temperature is high and the water evaporation is fast. Liquid fertilizer should be applied in small amounts but frequently. In winter, the temperature is low and the plant grows slowly or even stops growing, so no fertilizer is required generally.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Sweet basil?

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When should I avoid fertilizing my Sweet basil?


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Sunlight

Sweet basil is a full sun plant and needs sufficient sunlight during the whole growth period. It is best placed where it is exposed to sunlight for more than 6 hours average daily. Without enough sunlight, photosynthesis will be inhibited and accumulated nutrients reduced.
If the average daily sunlight exposure is less than 4 hours, thin leaves and light aroma may result. However, sweet basil should be properly shaded in hot summers, especially the seedlings.

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How much sunlight should Sweet basil get per day to grow healthily?

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Pruning

Sweet basil can be pruned when they reach 20 cm in height. Yellow leaves, once found, should be cut off promptly. If the plant grows too exuberantly and the ornamental effect deteriorates, redundant branches can be cut off. After pruning, add a small amount of slow-release fertilizer. Sweet basil usually dies after the seeds are ripened, and its life can be extended by cutting off the flowers to prevent the seeds from ripening.
Is pruning necessary for my Sweet basil?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Sweet basil is native to Tropical Asia and likes a warm and humid environment. It is more resistant to heat than cold, and to drought than waterlogging. The optimum growth temperature is between 22 to 28 ℃ in the daytime and 13 to 18 ℃ at night. The leaves will turn yellow if the ambient temperature is lower than 13 ℃. Damage may be caused to the plant if the temperature is lower than 10 ℃, and the leaves will droop if the temperature is higher than 35 ℃.
What is the optimal temperature for Sweet basil?

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Does Sweet basil require different temperatures for different growing phases?


Does Sweet basil need different temperatures for different seasons?


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Soil

Sweet basil is a deep-rooted plant, with the roots growing up to 51 to 102 cm deep. Therefore, well-drained, fertile, loose sandy loam or humus soil is the best culture soil. Potted plants can be planted in a mixed culture of peat and vermiculite at 2:1, or garden soil and fully decomposed organic fertilizer at 2:1.
Sweet basil does not have strict requirements on soil conditions. It can be planted in both acid and alkaline soil and can tolerate pH values of 5-8, but neutral soil is the best.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Sweet basil can be propagated by cuttage or sowing. Sowing is the main cultural method for families.

Propagation
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Sweet basil is generally sown in spring and fall, and the best time for sowing is a sunny morning. The soil can be exposed to sunlight before sowing to kill harmful microorganisms in the soil. Select plump, pest-free seeds, spread them evenly in the soil, cover them with a layer of 5 mm thick soil, and spray water gently. If you worry about uneven sowing, you can mix the seeds with fine soil in advance and then spread them in the garden.
The best temperature for sowing sweet basil is about 20 ℃, and the seedlings are expected to grow in 4-5 days. When they grow 1-2 leaves, poor or excessively dense seedlings may be removed, and the spacing of seedlings set to about 3 to 4 cm. When 8-10 leaves grow out on one plant, the plant can be transplanted. Keep plants spaced to about 25 cm apart.

Sweet basil can be used as an ornamental plant or picked as a fragrant herb to cook with at any time. Its leaves can be harvested before flowers bloom. Cut leaves with a small knife and try to avoid damaging the roots. Its leaves can be used in cold dishes or salads, or to remove the fishy taste of seafood, and dried leaves can be used as a spice. Its stem, leaves, and flowers can be harvested before blooming. They can be used to extract essential oils. It is best to harvest them at 9:00-17:00 after 2-3 consecutive sunny days. Its seeds are generally be harvested in late summer.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Sweet basil is resistant to heat, so it is best to move plants indoors in winter. Sweet basil should be properly shaded in summer; seedlings especially should not be directly exposed to strong sunlight. With hot temperatures and fast water evaporation, summer is also its most intense growing period. Use a lower concentration of liquid fertilizer in summer and fertilize more often to supplement enough nutrients and water for the plant. Smooth drainage should be ensured in summer because high humidity and poor drainage can easily cause the plant to be infected with fungus leaf spot.

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other annuals benefit from some care in the summer.

1
Keep the soil consistently moist, especially when rainfall is scarce. When the plant’s leaves begin losing some of the glossy shine, it’s time to water.

2
Continue to apply monthly applications of an all-purpose fertilizer.

3
Remove any spent blooms to encourage reflowering.

4
Ensure the plant is still receiving several hours of sunlight. Container plants may require relocating to another area.

5
Keep an eye out for any pests and diseases and remove debris from around the plant’s base.
As long as the plant is growing in the fall:

1
continue to care for your plant by watering and fertilizing with the all-purpose mixture. These steps will keep your annuals to keep them moist, shiny, and well-fed. If you'd rather not have your plant spread via seeds, deadhead spent blooms.

2
Some annuals may benefit from being cut back by 1/4 during the autumn.

3
To attempt to propagate more plants during the fall, you can either let your plant go to seed or sow the seeds yourself.

4
Depending on the variety, some plants do best in full sun while others need partial shade.
Your plant will only require minimal care during the colder winter months.

1
To overwinter your plant best, move it to a pot and bring it indoors, or take a cutting and propagate a new plant. As long as it isn't exposed to colder temperatures, there's a chance that your annual plant can thrive and last until spring, depending on the variety of your plant.

2
Make sure you continue providing enough light and occasional water for your overwintering annual to give it the best chance.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Sweet basil based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf rot



This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Underwatering



Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Leaf deformity



Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
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Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.

Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.

Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.

Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.

Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface

Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.

Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Sweet Basil

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial, Biennial

Spread
30 cm

Bloom Time
Summer, Fall

Flower Color
White
Pink
Purple

Leaf Color
Green
Purple

Flower Size
Inflorescence 3 cm to 8 cm

Plant Height
20 to 150 cm
Name story
Sweet basil
In European cuisine, it will be like losing its soul when there is no basil in the dish. No matter what recipe it is, you will like to add a little of it into the dish. It is because it gives off a strong and intense smell yet it adds a hint of sweetness into the dish. Hence, it is called Sweet basil.
Usages
Beauty Improvement Value
Sweet basil can be made into essential oil to moisturize and tighten skin, balance oil secretion, and refresh the mind with its cooling smell.
Garden Use
Anyone with an herb garden is likely to have at least one sweet basil plant growing. It is a staple of food and herb gardens because of its aromatic properties and resistance to deer and rabbits. Sweet basil can be grown by other herbs or veggies, such as tomatoes and peppers, and will naturally repel insects.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves turn yellow or wither?


There are many reasons for yellowing leaves. Leaves turn yellow if the temperature is lower than 13 ℃. Therefore, it is best to move plants inside in winter if the ambient temperature is too low. If the soil is dry for a long time or the soil is poorly drained, diseases may result. Keep soil moist and well-drained. If they don't get enough sunlight, plants can't produce enough energy through photosynthesis, and leaves turn yellow or wither. Your plant should be exposed to 6 or more hours of sunlight. It is also possible that insufficient soil fertility causes the leaves to turn yellow or wither, and a suitable amount of organic fertilizer can be applied to improve the plant's condition.
Why do the leaf tips wither?


Leaf tips can wither from insufficient water or sunlight. The flowerpot may be changed and the water amount should be well controlled. Lighting should be adjusted in summer and winter to avoid blazing sunlight in summer and ensure sufficient sunlight in winter.
Why do the leaves curl and shrink?


If the plant cannot obtain sufficient water, leaves shrink due to water shortage, so you must control how much water it gets. It is also possible that the root got damaged during a flowerpot change. The plant absorbs water from the soil through the root, so the root damage can cause water shortage. It will take some time for the plant to recover in such a case. It may also be affected by insects, such as aphids, which feed on the sap in the plant, causing the young leaves to curl and shrink. Insects can be washed away with water and/or special pesticides applied.
Why doesn't the plant have an aroma, or only a light aroma?


The aromas of sweet basil vary from variety to variety, just like that of the lilac flower. Some aromas are slightly peppermint, slightly sweet, or slightly spicy. Light aromas may be caused by insufficient sunlight or fertilizer. The average time of daily sunlight exposure should be above 4 hours and slow-release fertilizer should be added.
Why doesn't it ever bloom?


Insufficiency of sunlight or fertilizer can keep a plant from blooming. Put the plant in a bright, ventilated place, and apply a proper amount of nutrient solution each time you water. It may also be due to the long-term use of tap water with high mineral salts, so it is recommended to water with rainwater or distilled water instead of tap water.
Why do the roots of sweet basil rot?


Sweet basil is a deep-rooted plant; roots grow up to 51 to 102 cm long. Therefore, the size and depth of the flowerpot must be considerable. In addition, the growth of the root is closely related to the quality of soil, so poor drainage, permeability, and improper watering can cause the roots to rot. Sandy loam, or soil with good drainage and permeability, is preferred. Water more in summer and less in winter.


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