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FAQ

How to care Chinese Peony

Chinese peony is a perennial herbaceous bushy plant native to central and eastern Asia. It is highly regarded for its lush, white, pink, or crimson rose-like flowers, with pronounced yellow stamens. White chinese peony was first introduced to England in the mid-18th century, and today there are several hundred cultivars common in temperate gardens around the world.
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Have a heart, beautiful and moving, reluctant, inseparable, honor, good fortune
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Every 1-2 weeks
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Chinese peony
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Keep the soil moist for recently planted chinese peony. Don't water it too often under normal conditions, because excessive soil moisture can cause root rot and other diseases. Remember to water chinese peony once thoroughly when spring buds begin to expand leaves. Watering too early or too late affects plant growth. Water it once or twice before blooming to keep the soil moist.
With enough rain and good drainage, chinese peony flowers beautifully in summer. In case of continuous heat without rain, water to keep the soil moist. Water once before fall to prepare for the next year's flower buds. Water once before winter to keep the soil temperature constant, prevent frost damage, and help it overwinter.

Water

Potted Chinese peony
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Chinese peony needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. When it comes time to water your Chinese peony , you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided.
The Chinese peony plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than twice per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Chinese peony will contract a disease.
Ground Chinese peony
If you grow your Chinese peony outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established Chinese peony can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
The water needs of the Chinese peony can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Chinese peony is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Chinese peony will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Chinese peony will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Chinese peony more water at this time.
Overwater and underwater
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Chinese peony , but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant.
Underwatering is far less common for the Chinese peony , as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Chinese peony have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for an Chinese peony plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Chinese peony plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Chinese peony is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Chinese peony?
When watering the Chinese peony, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Chinese peony comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Chinese peony too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Chinese peony, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Chinese peony, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Chinese peony have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Chinese peony. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Chinese peony grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Chinese peony is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Chinese peony?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Chinese peony needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Chinese peony outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Chinese peony can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
Read More more
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How much water does my Chinese peony need?
When it comes time to water your Chinese peony, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Chinese peony at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Chinese peony can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Chinese peony is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Chinese peony will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Chinese peony will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Chinese peony more water at this time.
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How should I water my Chinese peony through the seasons?
The Chinese peony will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Chinese peony will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Chinese peony indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Chinese peony indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Chinese peony to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Chinese peony very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Chinese peony likes fertilizer, and nutrition affects the quantity and quality of flowers. Besides the basic fertilizer applied when transplanting, three applications of fertilizer are required every year.
  1. Before the first watering in the early spring, when the branches, leaves, and buds grow.
  2. About 15 days after the flowers wither. Appropriate amounts of fertilizer promote flower bud differentiation and improve the plant's resistance.
  3. In fall and winter, the application of organic fertilizer provides nutrients for plant growth in spring and builds some cold resistance.
Apply fertilizer in a ring. Dig a ring of shallow ditches 5 to 10 cm deep around the edge of the plant crown. Apply the fertilizer evenly in the ditch and water. Loosen the soil after it dries.
There are three things to avoid in chinese peony fertilization. Firstly, do not apply high-concentration fertilizer, which causes fertilizer damage. Secondly, do not apply fecal water, which causes diseases (soybean meal or rapeseed meal is recommended as organic fertilizer). Thirdly, do not apply fertilizer in summer. Growth slows or stops in hot weather, and applying fertilizer at this point of time can easily cause damage.

Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Chinese peony is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Chinese peony will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Chinese peony to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Chinese peony may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Chinese peony for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Chinese peony and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Chinese peony are relatively low. At times, a Chinese peony may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Chinese peony, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Chinese peony to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Chinese peony look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Chinese peony is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Chinese peony will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Chinese peony during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Chinese peony during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Chinese peony.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Chinese peony. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Chinese peony is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Chinese peony. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Chinese peony.
The most common way to fertilize a Chinese peony is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Chinese peony, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Chinese peony is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Chinese peony to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Chinese peony during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Chinese peony will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Chinese peony?
Fertilization is important to the Chinese peony for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Chinese peony and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Chinese peony are relatively low.
At times, a Chinese peony may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Chinese peony, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Chinese peony to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Chinese peony look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Chinese peony?
The ideal time to fertilize a Chinese peony is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Chinese peony will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Chinese peony during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Chinese peony during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Chinese peony.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Chinese peony?
You should not fertilize your Chinese peony during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Chinese peony will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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What type of fertilizer does my Chinese peony need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Chinese peony. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Chinese peony is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Chinese peony. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Chinese peony.
Read More more
lock
How do I fertilize my Chinese peony?
The most common way to fertilize a Chinese peony is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
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What happens if I fertilize my Chinese peony too much?
As you care for your Chinese peony, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Chinese peony is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Chinese peony to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Chinese peony needs sufficient sunlight and is resistant to partial shade, but cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. It needs shade in hot summer weather so the leaves won't get a sunburn. It is suitable for planting at sites where the tree crown can provide suitable shade at noon. It can be planted among shrubs.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Chinese peony need?
Chinese peony needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Chinese peony? How to protect Chinese peony from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Chinese peony from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Chinese peony gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Chinese peony and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Chinese peony need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Chinese peony is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Chinese peony is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Chinese peony need for photosynthesis?
Chinese peony will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Chinese peony get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Chinese peony to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Pruning is important to maintain a good shape and increase nutrition distribution to flowers and fruits. The sprouts at the root sprouting parts consume too many nutrients from the plant in spring. If they are not pruned, they will impact not only the appearance, but also the ventilation, sunlight, blooming, and fruiting of the plant. They should be pruned as early as possible.
New branches should be pruned in spring when they are roughly 5 cm long; keep 1-2 sprouts in one direction. To prune older branches, leave 2-3 buds and don't keep too many flower buds; otherwise, they'll take too much nutrition, resulting in smaller flowers prone to dropping.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Chinese peony?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Chinese peony to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Chinese peony. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Chinese peony is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Chinese peony will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Chinese peony?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Chinese peony. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Chinese peony is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Chinese peony requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Chinese peony will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Chinese peony?
Chinese peony doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Chinese peony?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Chinese peony based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Chinese peony, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Chinese peony likes a cool environment; it is suitable for planting in cold climates and high latitudes. It can overwinter at low temperatures. The temperature for growth is above 0 ℃, and the optimum temperature for growth is 16 to 18 ℃. When the temperature is higher than 25 ℃, it becomes dormant. It must experience 2-3 months of low temperatures (1 to 10 ℃) before blooming. The best temperature for blooming is 17 to 22 ℃. Chinese peony is resistant to drought, but accumulated water is fatal.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Chinese peony?
The best temperature for Chinese peony depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Chinese peony has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Chinese peony may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Chinese peony will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Chinese peony. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Chinese peony to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Chinese peony
If this is the first year of your Chinese peony outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Chinese peony, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Chinese peony inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Chinese peony in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Chinese peony should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Chinese peony from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Chinese peony from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Chinese peony in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Chinese peony is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Chinese peony to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Chinese peony
During the cold winter months, Chinese peony needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Chinese peony, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Chinese peony. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Chinese peony will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Chinese peony needs loose and deep culture medium with sufficient nutrients and good drainage. The suitable soil pH is 6.5-7; chinese peony will grow poorly in acidic and sticky soil. Select the loose, breathable peat as the culture medium, add coarse sand to improve air permeability and drainage, and add garden soil and organic matter so the medium retains enough water but does not accumulate it.
The recommended culture medium ratio is 1/3 peat + 1/3 coarse sand + 1/3 garden soil. Sterilize the culture medium before transplanting; sunlight combined with medical treatment is generally adopted.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Chinese peony can be propagated by division, cutting, and sowing. The most common method is division because it is relatively quick. The best time for division is in the fall when the temperature begins to drop. At that time, seedlings recuperate quickly and the root is still growing.
Split the plant with a sharp knife along the natural texture, and apply sulfur powder on the cut to prevent pathogens. Dry for 1-2 days, and transplant it until the cut is dry. The plants dug out should not be planted immediately; keep them outdoors for 30-50 days in the natural cold weather to break dormancy.

Propagation

Chinese peony provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Chinese peony, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Chinese peony if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.

Chinese peony provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Chinese peony, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Chinese peony if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
plant chinese peony in fall when the roots have stored a large amount of nutrients. After transplanting, the damaged root can continue to grow, and this is beneficial for seedling restoration. plant 41 to 51 cm deep with a 36 cm diameter. When chinese peony is planted in flowerpots, the pot should be the same size. Cover with 2.5 to 4 cm of sterilized, sandy loam. In severely cold zones, cover the planting pit with 20 cm-thick soil to ensure healthy overwintering.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Chinese peony blooms in early summer. Harvest cut flowers when the buds are mature and will bloom soon. The best time to harvest chinese peony is in the morning after dew evaporates, or in the evening. If dewy flowers are cut, the cutting site is prone to pests and diseases. The evening is best because the plant accumulates more carbohydrates at this time.
Use clean, sharp gardening scissors to cut the flower. Cut near the base, but leave 1-3 pairs of leaves on the plant to ensure future growth. Remove any ants and aphids from the cut part. Cut the base at 45º, remove 1/3 of the lower leaves from the stem, and soak the harvested stalk in cool, clean water as soon as possible to avoid water loss.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Generally, chinese peony is good at overwintering. However, in severely cold zones, water and mulch before winter to keep the soil warm. Chinese peony should not be exposed to blazing sunlight. Partial shading is favorable. The plants are resistant to drought, but can't tolerate waterlogging. Keep the soil moist and well-drained in summer.
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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Chinese peony based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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More About Chinese Peony

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
50 to 70 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Yellow
Red
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
6 to 16 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 90 cm

Name story

Common garden peony
As an ornamental plant, it happens to have up to hundreds of different species varying in color, size and appearance. Any of the varieties add beauty to any garden. Considering it is commonly planted in gardens, it is called the common garden peony. Interestingly, the word “peony” is derived from the Latin name “paeonia”.

Usages

Artistic Value
The Chinese peony is one of the ten famous flowers in China, and is often used as the theme of painting and poetry.
Garden Use
Chinese peony is one of the most common perennial flowers, found in gardens across temperate climates. Chinese peony is renowned for its large, showy flowers and beautiful array of colors. Its strong stem makes it great as a cut flower, and the wide variety of cultivars make for great borders, specimen plants, cottage or urban gardens, and more. It works well with alliums, roses, and bearded irises.
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Common Problems

Why do the leaves turn yellow or wither?

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There are many reasons peony leaves turn yellow or wither. It may be environmental factors, such as sunburn, drought, or fertilizer deficiency, or it could be disease or pests. If a leaf is sunburned, it is generally dark brown, and the parts not burned are dark green. Long-time drought leads to small, thickening, and wilting leaves, and drying of the leaf edges. Fertilizer deficiency can lead to yellowing, especially between leaf veins. If there is insect damage, you'll find wormholes; if there aren't wormholes, it can be inferred that disease is causing the yellowing.

Why are the flowers small?

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Small flowers are usually caused by a lack of nutrients. Apply fertilizer once in spring, as the leaves are growing, to supply sufficient nutrients to the flower buds. If there are too many sprouts and scaly buds, the flowers won't get sufficient nutrients, resulting in small, droopy flowers. After blooming, a one-time topdressing also helps the plant accumulate nutrients for the coming year's flowers.

How do I deal with root rot?

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Chinese peony has fleshy rhizomes, so it needs porous soil. It is resistant to drought but can't tolerate waterlogging. If the soil is too heavy, compacted, or over-watered, root rot will result. Replace the soil with porous sandy loam, and make sure drainage is sufficient to avoid waterlogging. Cut out rotten roots as soon as possible and apply sulfur powder to the cuts to avoid infection.

Why doesn't my tree peony bloom?

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Tree peonies bloom in late spring to early summer. There are several reasons they do not bloom. If there are flower buds but they don't develop into flowers, it may indicate a deficiency in nutrients. Apply fertilizer after the blooming season for abundant flowers next year. If there are no flower buds, the plant may need more sunlight. It could be that your peony is still getting established, or it too immature to bloom. Consultant with your nursery on these questions before purchase.
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Chinese peony
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Chinese peony
Chinese peony
Chinese peony

How to care Chinese Peony

Chinese peony is a perennial herbaceous bushy plant native to central and eastern Asia. It is highly regarded for its lush, white, pink, or crimson rose-like flowers, with pronounced yellow stamens. White chinese peony was first introduced to England in the mid-18th century, and today there are several hundred cultivars common in temperate gardens around the world.
symbolism

Symbolism

Have a heart, beautiful and moving, reluctant, inseparable, honor, good fortune
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Keep the soil moist for recently planted chinese peony. Don't water it too often under normal conditions, because excessive soil moisture can cause root rot and other diseases. Remember to water chinese peony once thoroughly when spring buds begin to expand leaves. Watering too early or too late affects plant growth. Water it once or twice before blooming to keep the soil moist.
With enough rain and good drainage, chinese peony flowers beautifully in summer. In case of continuous heat without rain, water to keep the soil moist. Water once before fall to prepare for the next year's flower buds. Water once before winter to keep the soil temperature constant, prevent frost damage, and help it overwinter.
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Water

Potted Chinese peony
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Chinese peony needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. When it comes time to water your Chinese peony , you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided.
The Chinese peony plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than twice per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Chinese peony will contract a disease.
Ground Chinese peony
If you grow your Chinese peony outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established Chinese peony can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
The water needs of the Chinese peony can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Chinese peony is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Chinese peony will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Chinese peony will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Chinese peony more water at this time.
Overwater and underwater
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Chinese peony , but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant.
Underwatering is far less common for the Chinese peony , as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Chinese peony have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for an Chinese peony plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Chinese peony plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Chinese peony is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Chinese peony likes fertilizer, and nutrition affects the quantity and quality of flowers. Besides the basic fertilizer applied when transplanting, three applications of fertilizer are required every year.
  1. Before the first watering in the early spring, when the branches, leaves, and buds grow.
  2. About 15 days after the flowers wither. Appropriate amounts of fertilizer promote flower bud differentiation and improve the plant's resistance.
  3. In fall and winter, the application of organic fertilizer provides nutrients for plant growth in spring and builds some cold resistance.
Apply fertilizer in a ring. Dig a ring of shallow ditches 5 to 10 cm deep around the edge of the plant crown. Apply the fertilizer evenly in the ditch and water. Loosen the soil after it dries.
There are three things to avoid in chinese peony fertilization. Firstly, do not apply high-concentration fertilizer, which causes fertilizer damage. Secondly, do not apply fecal water, which causes diseases (soybean meal or rapeseed meal is recommended as organic fertilizer). Thirdly, do not apply fertilizer in summer. Growth slows or stops in hot weather, and applying fertilizer at this point of time can easily cause damage.
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Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Chinese peony is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Chinese peony will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Chinese peony to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Chinese peony may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Chinese peony for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Chinese peony and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Chinese peony are relatively low. At times, a Chinese peony may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Chinese peony, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Chinese peony to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Chinese peony look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Chinese peony is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Chinese peony will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Chinese peony during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Chinese peony during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Chinese peony.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Chinese peony. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Chinese peony is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Chinese peony. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Chinese peony.
The most common way to fertilize a Chinese peony is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Chinese peony, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Chinese peony is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Chinese peony to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Chinese peony during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Chinese peony will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Chinese peony needs sufficient sunlight and is resistant to partial shade, but cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. It needs shade in hot summer weather so the leaves won't get a sunburn. It is suitable for planting at sites where the tree crown can provide suitable shade at noon. It can be planted among shrubs.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning is important to maintain a good shape and increase nutrition distribution to flowers and fruits. The sprouts at the root sprouting parts consume too many nutrients from the plant in spring. If they are not pruned, they will impact not only the appearance, but also the ventilation, sunlight, blooming, and fruiting of the plant. They should be pruned as early as possible.
New branches should be pruned in spring when they are roughly 5 cm long; keep 1-2 sprouts in one direction. To prune older branches, leave 2-3 buds and don't keep too many flower buds; otherwise, they'll take too much nutrition, resulting in smaller flowers prone to dropping.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Chinese peony likes a cool environment; it is suitable for planting in cold climates and high latitudes. It can overwinter at low temperatures. The temperature for growth is above 0 ℃, and the optimum temperature for growth is 16 to 18 ℃. When the temperature is higher than 25 ℃, it becomes dormant. It must experience 2-3 months of low temperatures (1 to 10 ℃) before blooming. The best temperature for blooming is 17 to 22 ℃. Chinese peony is resistant to drought, but accumulated water is fatal.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Chinese peony needs loose and deep culture medium with sufficient nutrients and good drainage. The suitable soil pH is 6.5-7; chinese peony will grow poorly in acidic and sticky soil. Select the loose, breathable peat as the culture medium, add coarse sand to improve air permeability and drainage, and add garden soil and organic matter so the medium retains enough water but does not accumulate it.
The recommended culture medium ratio is 1/3 peat + 1/3 coarse sand + 1/3 garden soil. Sterilize the culture medium before transplanting; sunlight combined with medical treatment is generally adopted.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Chinese peony can be propagated by division, cutting, and sowing. The most common method is division because it is relatively quick. The best time for division is in the fall when the temperature begins to drop. At that time, seedlings recuperate quickly and the root is still growing.
Split the plant with a sharp knife along the natural texture, and apply sulfur powder on the cut to prevent pathogens. Dry for 1-2 days, and transplant it until the cut is dry. The plants dug out should not be planted immediately; keep them outdoors for 30-50 days in the natural cold weather to break dormancy.
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Propagation

Chinese peony provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Chinese peony, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Chinese peony if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.

Chinese peony provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Chinese peony, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Chinese peony if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
plant chinese peony in fall when the roots have stored a large amount of nutrients. After transplanting, the damaged root can continue to grow, and this is beneficial for seedling restoration. plant 41 to 51 cm deep with a 36 cm diameter. When chinese peony is planted in flowerpots, the pot should be the same size. Cover with 2.5 to 4 cm of sterilized, sandy loam. In severely cold zones, cover the planting pit with 20 cm-thick soil to ensure healthy overwintering.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Chinese peony blooms in early summer. Harvest cut flowers when the buds are mature and will bloom soon. The best time to harvest chinese peony is in the morning after dew evaporates, or in the evening. If dewy flowers are cut, the cutting site is prone to pests and diseases. The evening is best because the plant accumulates more carbohydrates at this time.
Use clean, sharp gardening scissors to cut the flower. Cut near the base, but leave 1-3 pairs of leaves on the plant to ensure future growth. Remove any ants and aphids from the cut part. Cut the base at 45º, remove 1/3 of the lower leaves from the stem, and soak the harvested stalk in cool, clean water as soon as possible to avoid water loss.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Generally, chinese peony is good at overwintering. However, in severely cold zones, water and mulch before winter to keep the soil warm. Chinese peony should not be exposed to blazing sunlight. Partial shading is favorable. The plants are resistant to drought, but can't tolerate waterlogging. Keep the soil moist and well-drained in summer.
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Winter

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Chinese peony based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More more
Flower withering
Flower withering  Flower withering  Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More more
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming  Wilting after blooming  Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Petal blight
Petal blight  Petal blight  Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Learn More more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars  Caterpillars  Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More more
Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Petal blight
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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More About Chinese Peony

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
50 to 70 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Yellow
Red
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
6 to 16 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 to 90 cm

Name story

Common garden peony
As an ornamental plant, it happens to have up to hundreds of different species varying in color, size and appearance. Any of the varieties add beauty to any garden. Considering it is commonly planted in gardens, it is called the common garden peony. Interestingly, the word “peony” is derived from the Latin name “paeonia”.

Usages

Artistic Value
The Chinese peony is one of the ten famous flowers in China, and is often used as the theme of painting and poetry.
Garden Use
Chinese peony is one of the most common perennial flowers, found in gardens across temperate climates. Chinese peony is renowned for its large, showy flowers and beautiful array of colors. Its strong stem makes it great as a cut flower, and the wide variety of cultivars make for great borders, specimen plants, cottage or urban gardens, and more. It works well with alliums, roses, and bearded irises.
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Common Problems

Why do the leaves turn yellow or wither?

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There are many reasons peony leaves turn yellow or wither. It may be environmental factors, such as sunburn, drought, or fertilizer deficiency, or it could be disease or pests. If a leaf is sunburned, it is generally dark brown, and the parts not burned are dark green. Long-time drought leads to small, thickening, and wilting leaves, and drying of the leaf edges. Fertilizer deficiency can lead to yellowing, especially between leaf veins. If there is insect damage, you'll find wormholes; if there aren't wormholes, it can be inferred that disease is causing the yellowing.

Why are the flowers small?

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Small flowers are usually caused by a lack of nutrients. Apply fertilizer once in spring, as the leaves are growing, to supply sufficient nutrients to the flower buds. If there are too many sprouts and scaly buds, the flowers won't get sufficient nutrients, resulting in small, droopy flowers. After blooming, a one-time topdressing also helps the plant accumulate nutrients for the coming year's flowers.

How do I deal with root rot?

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Chinese peony has fleshy rhizomes, so it needs porous soil. It is resistant to drought but can't tolerate waterlogging. If the soil is too heavy, compacted, or over-watered, root rot will result. Replace the soil with porous sandy loam, and make sure drainage is sufficient to avoid waterlogging. Cut out rotten roots as soon as possible and apply sulfur powder to the cuts to avoid infection.

Why doesn't my tree peony bloom?

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Tree peonies bloom in late spring to early summer. There are several reasons they do not bloom. If there are flower buds but they don't develop into flowers, it may indicate a deficiency in nutrients. Apply fertilizer after the blooming season for abundant flowers next year. If there are no flower buds, the plant may need more sunlight. It could be that your peony is still getting established, or it too immature to bloom. Consultant with your nursery on these questions before purchase.
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