When watering the Peony, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Peony comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


More About How-Tos


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Peony
Peony is a perennial herbaceous bushy plant native to central and eastern Asia. It is highly regarded for its lush, white, pink, or crimson rose-like flowers, with pronounced yellow stamens. White peony was first introduced to England in the mid-18th century, and today there are several hundred cultivars common in temperate gardens around the world.

Symbolism
Have a heart, beautiful and moving, reluctant, inseparable, honor, good fortune

Water
Every 1-2 weeks


Sunlight
Full sun









Basic Care Guide

Water
Keep the soil moist for recently planted peony. Don't water it too often under normal conditions, because excessive soil moisture can cause root rot and other diseases. Remember to water peony once thoroughly when spring buds begin to expand leaves. Watering too early or too late affects plant growth. Water it once or twice before blooming to keep the soil moist.
With enough rain and good drainage, peony flowers beautifully in summer. In case of continuous heat without rain, water to keep the soil moist. Water once before fall to prepare for the next year's flower buds. Water once before winter to keep the soil temperature constant, prevent frost damage, and help it overwinter.


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What is the best way to water my Peony?
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What should I do if I water my Peony too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Peony, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Peony, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Peony have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Peony. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Peony grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Peony is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Peony?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Peony needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Peony outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Peony can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Peony need?
When it comes time to water your Peony, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Peony at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Peony can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Peony is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Peony will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Peony will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Peony more water at this time.
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How should I water my Peony through the seasons?
The Peony will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Peony will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Peony indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Peony indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Peony to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Peony very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Fertilizer
Peony likes fertilizer, and nutrition affects the quantity and quality of flowers. Besides the basic fertilizer applied when transplanting, three applications of fertilizer are required every year.
- Before the first watering in the early spring, when the branches, leaves, and buds grow.
- About 15 days after the flowers wither. Appropriate amounts of fertilizer promote flower bud differentiation and improve the plant's resistance.
- In fall and winter, the application of organic fertilizer provides nutrients for plant growth in spring and builds some cold resistance.
Apply fertilizer in a ring. Dig a ring of shallow ditches 5 to 10 cm deep around the edge of the plant crown. Apply the fertilizer evenly in the ditch and water. Loosen the soil after it dries.
There are three things to avoid in peony fertilization. Firstly, do not apply high-concentration fertilizer, which causes fertilizer damage. Secondly, do not apply fecal water, which causes diseases (soybean meal or rapeseed meal is recommended as organic fertilizer). Thirdly, do not apply fertilizer in summer. Growth slows or stops in hot weather, and applying fertilizer at this point of time can easily cause damage.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Peony?
Fertilization is important to the Peony for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Peony and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Peony are relatively low.
At times, a Peony may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Peony, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Peony to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Peony look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Peony?
The ideal time to fertilize a Peony is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Peony will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Peony during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Peony during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Peony.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Peony?
You should not fertilize your Peony during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Peony will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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What type of fertilizer does my Peony need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Peony. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Peony is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Peony. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Peony.
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How do I fertilize my Peony?
The most common way to fertilize a Peony is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
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What happens if I fertilize my Peony too much?
As you care for your Peony, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Peony is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Peony to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
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Sunlight
Peony needs sufficient sunlight and is resistant to partial shade, but cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. It needs shade in hot summer weather so the leaves won't get a sunburn. It is suitable for planting at sites where the tree crown can provide suitable shade at noon. It can be planted among shrubs.


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What type of sunlight does Peony need?
Peony needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Peony? How to protect Peony from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Peony from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Peony gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Peony and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Peony need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Peony is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Peony is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Peony need for photosynthesis?
Peony will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Peony get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Peony to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Pruning
Pruning is important to maintain a good shape and increase nutrition distribution to flowers and fruits. The sprouts at the root sprouting parts consume too many nutrients from the plant in spring. If they are not pruned, they will impact not only the appearance, but also the ventilation, sunlight, blooming, and fruiting of the plant. They should be pruned as early as possible.
New branches should be pruned in spring when they are roughly 5 cm long; keep 1-2 sprouts in one direction. To prune older branches, leave 2-3 buds and don't keep too many flower buds; otherwise, they'll take too much nutrition, resulting in smaller flowers prone to dropping.

Do I need to prune my Peony?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Peony to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Peony. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Peony is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Peony will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Peony?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Peony. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Peony is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Peony requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Peony will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Peony?
Peony doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Peony?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Peony based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Peony, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Peony likes a cool environment; it is suitable for planting in cold climates and high latitudes. It can overwinter at low temperatures. The temperature for growth is above 0 ℃, and the optimum temperature for growth is 16 to 18 ℃. When the temperature is higher than 25 ℃, it becomes dormant. It must experience 2-3 months of low temperatures (1 to 10 ℃) before blooming. The best temperature for blooming is 17 to 22 ℃. Peony is resistant to drought, but accumulated water is fatal.

What is the optimal temperature for Peony?
The best temperature for Peony depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Peony has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Peony may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Peony will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Peony. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Peony to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Peony
If this is the first year of your Peony outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Peony, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Peony inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Peony in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Peony should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Peony from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Peony from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Peony in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Peony is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Peony to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Peony
During the cold winter months, Peony needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Peony, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Peony. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Peony will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Soil
Peony needs loose and deep culture medium with sufficient nutrients and good drainage. The suitable soil pH is 6.5-7; peony will grow poorly in acidic and sticky soil. Select the loose, breathable peat as the culture medium, add coarse sand to improve air permeability and drainage, and add garden soil and organic matter so the medium retains enough water but does not accumulate it.
The recommended culture medium ratio is 1/3 peat + 1/3 coarse sand + 1/3 garden soil. Sterilize the culture medium before transplanting; sunlight combined with medical treatment is generally adopted.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Peony can be propagated by division, cutting, and sowing. The most common method is division because it is relatively quick. The best time for division is in the fall when the temperature begins to drop. At that time, seedlings recuperate quickly and the root is still growing.
Split the plant with a sharp knife along the natural texture, and apply sulfur powder on the cut to prevent pathogens. Dry for 1-2 days, and transplant it until the cut is dry. The plants dug out should not be planted immediately; keep them outdoors for 30-50 days in the natural cold weather to break dormancy.
Propagation
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plant peony in fall when the roots have stored a large amount of nutrients. After transplanting, the damaged root can continue to grow, and this is beneficial for seedling restoration. plant 41 to 51 cm deep with a 36 cm diameter. When peony is planted in flowerpots, the pot should be the same size. Cover with 2.5 to 4 cm of sterilized, sandy loam. In severely cold zones, cover the planting pit with 20 cm-thick soil to ensure healthy overwintering.

Peony blooms in early summer. Harvest cut flowers when the buds are mature and will bloom soon. The best time to harvest peony is in the morning after dew evaporates, or in the evening. If dewy flowers are cut, the cutting site is prone to pests and diseases. The evening is best because the plant accumulates more carbohydrates at this time.
Use clean, sharp gardening scissors to cut the flower. Cut near the base, but leave 1-3 pairs of leaves on the plant to ensure future growth. Remove any ants and aphids from the cut part. Cut the base at 45º, remove 1/3 of the lower leaves from the stem, and soak the harvested stalk in cool, clean water as soon as possible to avoid water loss.


Transplanting

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.


More About How-Tos

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Peony originates from the cooler regions of Northeast Asia, spanning from eastern Siberia to China and Korea. This area's annual rainfall ranges from 400mm to 1000mm, with high humidity prevailing most of the year. Peony therefore prefers well-draining soil that mimics these natural damp and moist conditions. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so only water when the soil's top layer appears dry.

Lighting
Full sun
The peony enjoys abundant sun exposure for optimal growth, yet tolerates the solace of some shade. Originating from habitat with copious light, the plant thrives under such conditions. While excessive sun could potentially burn foliage, inadequate can lead to stunted growth and sparse blooms.

Temperature
-25 41 ℃
As a peony, it thrives in temperate regions with an average temperature range of 5 to 35 ℃ (41 to 95 ℉). During spring, it prefers cooler temperatures between 5 and 15 ℃ (41 and 59 ℉) and benefits from mulching to retain soil moisture. In summer, it can tolerate warmer temperatures up to 30 ℃ (86 ℉) but requires regular watering. During fall, temperature adjustment is not necessary as it's able to tolerate the fluctuations. In winter, it prefers temperatures between -15 and 5 ℃ (5 to 41 ℉) and requires mulching to protect the roots.

Transplant
3-4 feet
The perfect time to transplant peony is between mid-spring and early summer, as warmer temperatures encourage root growth. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sun exposure. Gently loosen the root ball when transplanting, ensuring a successful transition for the plant.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Generally, peony is good at overwintering. However, in severely cold zones, water and mulch before winter to keep the soil warm. Peony should not be exposed to blazing sunlight. Partial shading is favorable. The plants are resistant to drought, but can't tolerate waterlogging. Keep the soil moist and well-drained in summer.


Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant requires some care in the spring.

1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.

2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.

3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.

4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.

5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.
The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.

2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.

3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.

4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.

5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.
Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.

2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.

3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.

4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.
As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.

2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Peony based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.



Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.



Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.

Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.

Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.

Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.

Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.

Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
- Pallid spots on colored petals.
- Brown spots on white petals.
- Browning around the petal edges.
- Small spots look water-soaked.
- Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
- Flowers become limp.
- The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
- Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
- A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.

Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.

Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.

Prevention
- Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
- Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
- Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
- Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
- Buy bare-root specimens when available.
- When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
- Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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More About Peony

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
50 to 70 cm

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
White
Pink
Yellow
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
6 to 16 cm

Plant Height
50 to 90 cm
Name story
Common garden peony
As an ornamental plant, it happens to have up to hundreds of different species varying in color, size and appearance. Any of the varieties add beauty to any garden. Considering it is commonly planted in gardens, it is called the common garden peony. Interestingly, the word “peony” is derived from the Latin name “paeonia”.
Usages
Artistic Value
The Chinese peony is one of the ten famous flowers in China, and is often used as the theme of painting and poetry.
Garden Use
Peony is one of the most common perennial flowers, found in gardens across temperate climates. Peony is renowned for its large, showy flowers and beautiful array of colors. Its strong stem makes it great as a cut flower, and the wide variety of cultivars make for great borders, specimen plants, cottage or urban gardens, and more. It works well with alliums, roses, and bearded irises.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves turn yellow or wither?


There are many reasons peony leaves turn yellow or wither. It may be environmental factors, such as sunburn, drought, or fertilizer deficiency, or it could be disease or pests. If a leaf is sunburned, it is generally dark brown, and the parts not burned are dark green. Long-time drought leads to small, thickening, and wilting leaves, and drying of the leaf edges. Fertilizer deficiency can lead to yellowing, especially between leaf veins. If there is insect damage, you'll find wormholes; if there aren't wormholes, it can be inferred that disease is causing the yellowing.
Why are the flowers small?


Small flowers are usually caused by a lack of nutrients. Apply fertilizer once in spring, as the leaves are growing, to supply sufficient nutrients to the flower buds. If there are too many sprouts and scaly buds, the flowers won't get sufficient nutrients, resulting in small, droopy flowers. After blooming, a one-time topdressing also helps the plant accumulate nutrients for the coming year's flowers.
How do I deal with root rot?


Peony has fleshy rhizomes, so it needs porous soil. It is resistant to drought but can't tolerate waterlogging. If the soil is too heavy, compacted, or over-watered, root rot will result. Replace the soil with porous sandy loam, and make sure drainage is sufficient to avoid waterlogging. Cut out rotten roots as soon as possible and apply sulfur powder to the cuts to avoid infection.
Why doesn't my tree peony bloom?


Tree peonies bloom in late spring to early summer. There are several reasons they do not bloom. If there are flower buds but they don't develop into flowers, it may indicate a deficiency in nutrients. Apply fertilizer after the blooming season for abundant flowers next year. If there are no flower buds, the plant may need more sunlight. It could be that your peony is still getting established, or it too immature to bloom. Consultant with your nursery on these questions before purchase.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.








Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











Treat and prevent plant diseases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Peony

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

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Peony

Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.


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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care







How to Care for Peony
Peony is a perennial herbaceous bushy plant native to central and eastern Asia. It is highly regarded for its lush, white, pink, or crimson rose-like flowers, with pronounced yellow stamens. White peony was first introduced to England in the mid-18th century, and today there are several hundred cultivars common in temperate gardens around the world.

Symbolism
Have a heart, beautiful and moving, reluctant, inseparable, honor, good fortune

Every 1-2 weeks
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

Keep the soil moist for recently planted peony. Don't water it too often under normal conditions, because excessive soil moisture can cause root rot and other diseases. Remember to water peony once thoroughly when spring buds begin to expand leaves. Watering too early or too late affects plant growth. Water it once or twice before blooming to keep the soil moist.
With enough rain and good drainage, peony flowers beautifully in summer. In case of continuous heat without rain, water to keep the soil moist. Water once before fall to prepare for the next year's flower buds. Water once before winter to keep the soil temperature constant, prevent frost damage, and help it overwinter.

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What is the best way to water my Peony?

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How often should I water my Peony?

How much water does my Peony need?

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Fertilizer

Peony likes fertilizer, and nutrition affects the quantity and quality of flowers. Besides the basic fertilizer applied when transplanting, three applications of fertilizer are required every year.
- Before the first watering in the early spring, when the branches, leaves, and buds grow.
- About 15 days after the flowers wither. Appropriate amounts of fertilizer promote flower bud differentiation and improve the plant's resistance.
- In fall and winter, the application of organic fertilizer provides nutrients for plant growth in spring and builds some cold resistance.
Apply fertilizer in a ring. Dig a ring of shallow ditches 5 to 10 cm deep around the edge of the plant crown. Apply the fertilizer evenly in the ditch and water. Loosen the soil after it dries.
There are three things to avoid in peony fertilization. Firstly, do not apply high-concentration fertilizer, which causes fertilizer damage. Secondly, do not apply fecal water, which causes diseases (soybean meal or rapeseed meal is recommended as organic fertilizer). Thirdly, do not apply fertilizer in summer. Growth slows or stops in hot weather, and applying fertilizer at this point of time can easily cause damage.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Peony?

When is the best time to fertilize my Peony?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Peony?

What type of fertilizer does my Peony need?

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Sunlight

Peony needs sufficient sunlight and is resistant to partial shade, but cannot tolerate blazing sunlight. It needs shade in hot summer weather so the leaves won't get a sunburn. It is suitable for planting at sites where the tree crown can provide suitable shade at noon. It can be planted among shrubs.

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What type of sunlight does Peony need?

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Pruning

Pruning is important to maintain a good shape and increase nutrition distribution to flowers and fruits. The sprouts at the root sprouting parts consume too many nutrients from the plant in spring. If they are not pruned, they will impact not only the appearance, but also the ventilation, sunlight, blooming, and fruiting of the plant. They should be pruned as early as possible.
New branches should be pruned in spring when they are roughly 5 cm long; keep 1-2 sprouts in one direction. To prune older branches, leave 2-3 buds and don't keep too many flower buds; otherwise, they'll take too much nutrition, resulting in smaller flowers prone to dropping.
Do I need to prune my Peony?

When is the best time to prune my Peony?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Peony likes a cool environment; it is suitable for planting in cold climates and high latitudes. It can overwinter at low temperatures. The temperature for growth is above 0 ℃, and the optimum temperature for growth is 16 to 18 ℃. When the temperature is higher than 25 ℃, it becomes dormant. It must experience 2-3 months of low temperatures (1 to 10 ℃) before blooming. The best temperature for blooming is 17 to 22 ℃. Peony is resistant to drought, but accumulated water is fatal.
What is the optimal temperature for Peony?

Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Peony

How can I protect Peony from extreme temperatures?

Dormant season temperature recommendations for Peony

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Soil

Peony needs loose and deep culture medium with sufficient nutrients and good drainage. The suitable soil pH is 6.5-7; peony will grow poorly in acidic and sticky soil. Select the loose, breathable peat as the culture medium, add coarse sand to improve air permeability and drainage, and add garden soil and organic matter so the medium retains enough water but does not accumulate it.
The recommended culture medium ratio is 1/3 peat + 1/3 coarse sand + 1/3 garden soil. Sterilize the culture medium before transplanting; sunlight combined with medical treatment is generally adopted.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Peony can be propagated by division, cutting, and sowing. The most common method is division because it is relatively quick. The best time for division is in the fall when the temperature begins to drop. At that time, seedlings recuperate quickly and the root is still growing.
Split the plant with a sharp knife along the natural texture, and apply sulfur powder on the cut to prevent pathogens. Dry for 1-2 days, and transplant it until the cut is dry. The plants dug out should not be planted immediately; keep them outdoors for 30-50 days in the natural cold weather to break dormancy.

Propagation
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plant peony in fall when the roots have stored a large amount of nutrients. After transplanting, the damaged root can continue to grow, and this is beneficial for seedling restoration. plant 41 to 51 cm deep with a 36 cm diameter. When peony is planted in flowerpots, the pot should be the same size. Cover with 2.5 to 4 cm of sterilized, sandy loam. In severely cold zones, cover the planting pit with 20 cm-thick soil to ensure healthy overwintering.

Peony blooms in early summer. Harvest cut flowers when the buds are mature and will bloom soon. The best time to harvest peony is in the morning after dew evaporates, or in the evening. If dewy flowers are cut, the cutting site is prone to pests and diseases. The evening is best because the plant accumulates more carbohydrates at this time.
Use clean, sharp gardening scissors to cut the flower. Cut near the base, but leave 1-3 pairs of leaves on the plant to ensure future growth. Remove any ants and aphids from the cut part. Cut the base at 45º, remove 1/3 of the lower leaves from the stem, and soak the harvested stalk in cool, clean water as soon as possible to avoid water loss.

Transplanting

Potting Suggestions


Needs excellent drainage in pots.

More About How-Tos

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Generally, peony is good at overwintering. However, in severely cold zones, water and mulch before winter to keep the soil warm. Peony should not be exposed to blazing sunlight. Partial shading is favorable. The plants are resistant to drought, but can't tolerate waterlogging. Keep the soil moist and well-drained in summer.

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant requires some care in the spring.

1
Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.

2
Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.

3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.

4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.

5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.
The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

1
Keep container plants in a shaded area.

2
Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.

3
Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.

4
Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.

5
Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.
Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

1
Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.

2
Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.

3
Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.

4
At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.
As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

1
After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.

2
Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Peony based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering



Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Wilting after blooming



Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Petal blight



Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
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Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Underwatering



Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.

Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.

Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.

Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.

Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.

Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
- Pallid spots on colored petals.
- Brown spots on white petals.
- Browning around the petal edges.
- Small spots look water-soaked.
- Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
- Flowers become limp.
- The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
- Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
- A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.

Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.

Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.

Prevention
- Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
- Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
- Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
- Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
- Buy bare-root specimens when available.
- When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
- Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.

Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.

Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand

Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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More About Peony

Plant Type
Herb

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
50 to 70 cm

Bloom Time
Spring

Flower Color
White
Pink
Yellow
Red

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
6 to 16 cm

Plant Height
50 to 90 cm
Name story
Common garden peony
As an ornamental plant, it happens to have up to hundreds of different species varying in color, size and appearance. Any of the varieties add beauty to any garden. Considering it is commonly planted in gardens, it is called the common garden peony. Interestingly, the word “peony” is derived from the Latin name “paeonia”.
Usages
Artistic Value
The Chinese peony is one of the ten famous flowers in China, and is often used as the theme of painting and poetry.
Garden Use
Peony is one of the most common perennial flowers, found in gardens across temperate climates. Peony is renowned for its large, showy flowers and beautiful array of colors. Its strong stem makes it great as a cut flower, and the wide variety of cultivars make for great borders, specimen plants, cottage or urban gardens, and more. It works well with alliums, roses, and bearded irises.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves turn yellow or wither?


There are many reasons peony leaves turn yellow or wither. It may be environmental factors, such as sunburn, drought, or fertilizer deficiency, or it could be disease or pests. If a leaf is sunburned, it is generally dark brown, and the parts not burned are dark green. Long-time drought leads to small, thickening, and wilting leaves, and drying of the leaf edges. Fertilizer deficiency can lead to yellowing, especially between leaf veins. If there is insect damage, you'll find wormholes; if there aren't wormholes, it can be inferred that disease is causing the yellowing.
Why are the flowers small?


Small flowers are usually caused by a lack of nutrients. Apply fertilizer once in spring, as the leaves are growing, to supply sufficient nutrients to the flower buds. If there are too many sprouts and scaly buds, the flowers won't get sufficient nutrients, resulting in small, droopy flowers. After blooming, a one-time topdressing also helps the plant accumulate nutrients for the coming year's flowers.
How do I deal with root rot?


Peony has fleshy rhizomes, so it needs porous soil. It is resistant to drought but can't tolerate waterlogging. If the soil is too heavy, compacted, or over-watered, root rot will result. Replace the soil with porous sandy loam, and make sure drainage is sufficient to avoid waterlogging. Cut out rotten roots as soon as possible and apply sulfur powder to the cuts to avoid infection.
Why doesn't my tree peony bloom?


Tree peonies bloom in late spring to early summer. There are several reasons they do not bloom. If there are flower buds but they don't develop into flowers, it may indicate a deficiency in nutrients. Apply fertilizer after the blooming season for abundant flowers next year. If there are no flower buds, the plant may need more sunlight. It could be that your peony is still getting established, or it too immature to bloom. Consultant with your nursery on these questions before purchase.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.



















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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2

Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3

Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

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Water

Peony Watering Instructions
Peony originates from the cooler regions of Northeast Asia, spanning from eastern Siberia to China and Korea. This area's annual rainfall ranges from 400mm to 1000mm, with high humidity prevailing most of the year. Peony therefore prefers well-draining soil that mimics these natural damp and moist conditions. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so only water when the soil's top layer appears dry.
When Should I Water My Peony?
Introduction

Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the peony. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant flower production, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Dryness

A clear sign of when peony needs water is the dryness of the soil. This can be checked by touching the soil around the plant base. If the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry to the touch, this means the plant most likely requires watering.
Leaf Condition

The condition of the leaves of peony can also be a reliable indicator for watering necessities. If the leaves appear wilted, lackluster, or begin to lose their vibrant colour tending to fade or yellow, these are indicative of the plant being under-watered.
Pre-Flowering Stage

Peony particularly requires watering during its pre-flowering or bud formation stage. A lack of water during this critical period may result in bud drop, preventing the plant from flowering fully.
Temperature And Sunlight Exposure

Peony has a high water requirement during warm temperatures and high sunlight exposure periods. Therefore, one must ensure to observe proper watering if these conditions are persistent.
Early Watering Risks

Watering peony too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks

Watering peony too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stunt the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion

Understanding these signs is critical to effectively manage the watering schedule for the peony. Proper water management not only encourages its growth and flowering but also prolongs its life span and maintains plant health.
How Should I Water My Peony?
Unique Watering Requirements of peony

Paeonia lactiflora has unique watering requirements; it thrives best when its root zone is evenly moist but not waterlogged. Overwatering can lead to root rot while underwatering can cause wilting. The goal is to strike a balance, ensuring consistent moistness without overwatering or waterlogging.
Preferred Watering Technique

Using a watering can with a long spout is ideal for watering peony. This method allows you to water the plant at its base, avoiding wetting the foliage which can lead to fungal diseases. The water must be poured slowly and steadily near the base to ensure deep penetration in the soil.
Beneficial Watering Tools

A moisture meter can be instrumental in maintaining optimal hydration levels for peony. This tool measures soil moisture levels, signalling when the plant needs watering and helping prevent over or underwatering. A watering can with a long, narrow spout is also beneficial, as it allows for targeted watering at the base of the plant.
Areas to Focus on While Watering

While watering peony, focus should be placed exclusively on the base of the plant. Moistening the foliage or flowers should be avoided to minimize the risk of fungal diseases. Ensure that water penetrates deep into the soil to reach the roots, encouraging healthier and stronger plant growth.
Practice Deep Watering

Deep watering encourages the roots of peony to grow deeper into the soil, creating a strong root system. This can be achieved by watering slowly and allowing the water to seep deep into the soil, promoting better absorption and reducing the frequency of watering.
How Much Water Does Peony Really Need?
Introduction

Peony is a plant native to China and is well-known for its large, showy flowers. In its natural habitat, peony thrives in temperate climates with moderate rainfall. Understanding its hydration needs is crucial for proper care and cultivation.
Optimal Watering Quantity

When it comes to watering peony, it's important to consider factors such as pot size, root depth, and plant size. As a general rule of thumb, peony requires a thorough watering session, allowing the water to reach the bottom of the pot. This ensures that the entire root system is adequately hydrated. The frequency of watering will depend on various factors, but in most cases, watering every 7-10 days should suffice. The optimal watering quantity should be around 1-2 liters for medium-sized pots, increasing to 2-3 liters for larger pots.
Signs of Proper Hydration

A well-hydrated peony plant will display several signs of proper hydration. Its leaves will appear lush and vibrant, with no signs of wilting or drooping. The stems will be sturdy and upright, and during the blooming season, the plant will produce a high number of large and healthy flowers. On the other hand, signs of overwatering include yellowing leaves, leaf drop, or the appearance of mold or fungus. Underwatering can lead to wilting leaves, a drooping appearance, and delayed or stunted growth.
Risks of Improper Watering

Providing too much water to peony can lead to root rot and other fungal diseases. Additionally, overwatering can suffocate the roots by depriving them of oxygen. On the other hand, underwatering can cause the plant to become weak, stunt its growth, and reduce its vitality. Both over and underwatering can make the plant more susceptible to pests and diseases.
Additional Advice

To ensure the best health for your peony, it is advisable to use well-draining soil that allows excess water to escape. This will prevent potential waterlogging and help maintain optimal moisture levels for the plant's root system. During the growing season, it is also beneficial to apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture and prevent weed growth. As with any plant, it's essential to monitor the soil moisture levels and adjust watering frequency as needed, taking into consideration the specific conditions in your growing environment.
How Often Should I Water Peony?

Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency

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What Kind of Water is Best for Peony?
Ideal Water Types
Rainwater and well-aerated tap water are optimal for peony. Distilled or filtered water can also be used, but aren't necessary and can potentially wash away beneficial soil nutrients.
Sensitivity to Water Contaminants
Peony doesn't have a high sensitivity to fluoride or specific minerals, but it can be sensitive to high chlorine levels. When using tap water, it is recommended to let it sit out for a few hours to allow chlorine to dissipate.
Water Treatments Beneficial for peony
Letting tap water sit out overnight to allow chlorine to evaporate can be beneficial for this plant. Peony also prefers well-aerated water, which can be achieved by simply shaking the water before using it.
Water Temperature Preference
Peony prefers water at room temperature. Excessive cold or hot water can stress the plant, leading to slower growth.
Significance of Right Watering Conditions
Water quality and conditions play a big role in the health of peony. The plant flourishes in well-aerated, room-temperature water with low chlorine content. Too many contaminants or incorrect water temperature could lead to issues like slowed growth or leaf discoloration.
How Do Peony's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water peony in Spring?

In spring, peony (Paeonia lactiflora) begins its active growth period. During this time, the plant establishes its root system and starts to bud, requiring more water to support these metabolic processes. It's crucial to water deeply and thoroughly to wet the entire root zone. As spring rainfall can be sporadic, you should monitor soil moisture levels closely. If the top inch of soil feels dry, it's time to water. However, be careful not to overwater and create soggy conditions, as peony is susceptible to root rot.
How to Water peony in Summer?

Summers can be hot and dry, increasing the plant's water requirement due to the increased evaporation rates. While peony is fairly drought tolerant once established, maintaining a regular watering schedule during this time is essential, especially in the absence of sufficient rainfall. However, do not overwater, as peony does not like sitting in waterlogged soil. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist to a depth of several inches. Also, it is preferable to water peony early in the day to reduce the risk of fungal diseases, which thrive in cool, moist conditions.
How to Water peony in Autumn?

In the autumn, as peony prepares for the dormancy period, the plant's watering requirements decrease. Reduce watering, allowing the top few inches of soil to dry out before watering again. This helps peony to harden off and better withstand the upcoming winter. Be vigilant about not overwatering during this period as this can lead to root rot or fungal issues.
How to Water peony in Winter?

During winter, peony is dormant and generally needs only minimal watering, if any. If the winter is exceptionally dry and snow-free, a monthly deep watering may be beneficial to prevent root dehydration. However, ensure the soil is not waterlogged or frozen before watering. Take precaution against ice formation around the plant, which can cause damage.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Peony Watering Routine?
Soil Moisture Probe

Using a soil moisture probe can provide more accurate information about the moisture level in the root zone of peony. Insert the probe into the soil near the roots to determine if watering is necessary.
Watering Depth

Water peony deeply and slowly to ensure the water reaches the roots. Aim for a depth of at least 6 inches to encourage deep root growth.
Watering Frequency

While peony needs regular watering, it's important to let the soil dry out slightly between waterings. Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
Mulching

Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of peony to help retain soil moisture. This will reduce the need for frequent watering and protect the roots from temperature extremes.
Avoid Overhead Watering

Peonies are prone to fungal diseases, so it's best to avoid overhead watering. Instead, use a drip irrigation system or water at the base of the plant to minimize moisture on the foliage.
Rainwater Harvesting

Collecting rainwater in a barrel can be a great way to provide natural, chemical-free water for peony. Use this rainwater to water the plant during dry periods or supplement regular watering.
Monitor Soil Drainage

Peonies prefer well-draining soil. Excessive moisture can lead to root rot and other problems. If the soil is consistently waterlogged, consider improving drainage by adding organic matter or planting in a raised bed.
Adjusting Watering During Heatwaves

During a heatwave, peony may require more frequent watering to withstand the high temperatures. Monitor the soil moisture closely and increase watering as needed to prevent the plant from drying out.
Watering During Extended Rain

If there is prolonged rainfall, reduce or stop watering peony to prevent waterlogged soil. Too much moisture can lead to root rot and other diseases.
Watering for Stressed Plants

When peony is stressed, such as after transplanting or during exceptionally hot or dry weather, water deeply and more frequently to help the plant recover and maintain its health.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Peony
Overview
Peony or peonies are popular for their attractive, fragrant flowers. Hydroponics, the method of cultivating plants without soil, and providing nutrients through water, can be used to grow peony. This method allows for more control over the plant's growth and is particularly useful when soil conditions are not optimal.
Hydroponic System
The deep water culture (DWC) hydroponic system is typically the best suited for peony. This system allows the peony roots to access oxygen and nutrients directly from the water, while also enabling a stable support structure for the large flower blooms.
Nutrient Solution
Peony requires a nutrient solution with a pH of 5.8-6.2 for optimal growth. This should include macro nutrients such as Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium as well as micro nutrients like Iron, Copper and Zinc. Regular monitoring and adjusting is necessary, at least once a week, to maintain the correct pH and nutrient concentration.
Common Challenges
Common challenges when growing peony hydroponically are root rot, which results from poor oxygenation, and nutrient imbalances which if not tackled, can lead to poor flowering or burnt leaf tips. Furthermore, providing enough light for the peony can also be challenging in an indoor setup.
Monitoring Plant Health
It is essential to regularly monitor the health of peony in a hydroponic setup. Peony requires more light than typical indoor plants so watch for signs of light stress such as droopy leaves or less vigorous blooming. Root health is also paramount - brown or mushy roots could indicate root rot.
Environment Adjustment
Adjusting the hydroponic environment based on peony's growth stage is crucial. During the germination and vegetative growth stages, the nutrient solution should lean towards containing more Nitrogen. As it transitions to the flowering stage, reducing Nitrogen and providing more Phosphorus and Potassium supports healthier blooms.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Peony is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots

Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems

Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Peony is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
View more

(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting

Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling

Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases

Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Peony
Why are the leaves of my peony turning yellow?

Yellow leaves usually indicate overwatering which leads to waterlogged conditions. This inadequate drainage can lead to root rot. To rectify this situation, ensure that the peony is planted in well-drained soil and be careful not to overwater, especially in cooler months as peony do not require as much water during its dormant period. Make sure to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.
The bloom of my peony is wilted and not flourishing, is it due to watering issues?

Yes, it could be due to underwatering. Peony require a good amount of sunshine and water to bloom properly. During the growth and bloom stages, from spring through summer, ensure peony is watered regularly, especially in dry conditions, but avoid watering the foliage to minimize disease risks.
Why is my peony not blooming even though I am watering it regularly?

This may be due to water imbalance. Too much or too little water can both prevent bloom. Peony prefers to be watered regularly, especially in dry spells, but be cautious about overwatering. Over-saturation can lead to problems such as root rot, which prevents adequate nutrient absorption, causing the plant to not bloom. Adjust your watering appropriately and ensure the soil drains well.
Why are the stems of my peony turning soft and mushy?

Soft, mushy stems are usually a sign of overwatering, leading to a condition called root rot, which happens when roots sit in soggy soil for extended periods. The resolution is to reduce the amount of water and improve the drainage in the soil by mixing in organic matter or perlite. Additionally, ensure peony is planted in a location where water doesn't collect.
Why does my peony have brown, dry edges on its leaves?

This condition is often the result of not enough water. Peonies need a deep watering about once a week during dry spells. Ensure that your peony is getting enough water and you are soaking the soil thoroughly, which encourages deeper root growth, resulting in a healthier plant.

Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
The peony enjoys abundant sun exposure for optimal growth, yet tolerates the solace of some shade. Originating from habitat with copious light, the plant thrives under such conditions. While excessive sun could potentially burn foliage, inadequate can lead to stunted growth and sparse blooms.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Peony thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your peony may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Peony enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Peony thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
As a peony, it thrives in temperate regions with an average temperature range of 5 to 35 ℃ (41 to 95 ℉). During spring, it prefers cooler temperatures between 5 and 15 ℃ (41 and 59 ℉) and benefits from mulching to retain soil moisture. In summer, it can tolerate warmer temperatures up to 30 ℃ (86 ℉) but requires regular watering. During fall, temperature adjustment is not necessary as it's able to tolerate the fluctuations. In winter, it prefers temperatures between -15 and 5 ℃ (5 to 41 ℉) and requires mulching to protect the roots.

Regional wintering strategies
Peony has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Peony is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
High Temperature
During summer, Peony should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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Transplant

How to Successfully Transplant Peony?
The perfect time to transplant peony is between mid-spring and early summer, as warmer temperatures encourage root growth. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sun exposure. Gently loosen the root ball when transplanting, ensuring a successful transition for the plant.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Peony?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Peony?

The perfect moment to transplant peony is during the delightful days of mid-spring to early summer, as it allows the plant to establish strong roots and thrive. Opting for this time frame promises a lush, beautiful growth and a happy gardening experience.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Peony Plants?

For transplanting peony, make sure you have a space of about 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 meters) between each plant. This will provide enough room for healthy growth and let them breathe.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Peony Transplanting?

When transplanting peony, choose a well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Before planting, mix in some organic matter, like compost or well-rotted manure, to enrich and loosen up the soil.
Where Should You Relocate Your Peony?

To ensure peony gets enough sunlight, pick a spot in your garden where it will get full to partial sun. It needs about 4-6 hours of sun daily to thrive and bloom beautifully.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Peony?
Gardening Gloves

To protect your hands while working with soil and the peony plant.
Shovel or Spade

For digging holes, trenches, and lifting the plant out of its original location.
Hand Trowel

For precise digging when transplanting young plants or seedlings.
Pruning Shears

To trim back roots and shoots if necessary.
Watering Can or Hose

To ensure the soil is sufficiently moist before and after transplanting.
Soil Amendment

To improve soil quality and provide nutrients for the peony plant.
Mulch

To help retain moisture and regulate temperature around the transplanted plant.
How Do You Remove Peony from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new planting site by digging a hole as deep and twice as wide as the peony plant's root ball. Amend the soil to ensure a well-draining, nutrient-rich environment for the plant to grow.
Step2 Root Pruning
Examine the plant's roots and use pruning shears to trim back any damaged or excessively long roots.
Step3 Positioning
Carefully place the peony plant in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Spread the roots out evenly in the hole to encourage proper establishment.
Step4 Backfilling
Fill in the hole around the plant with the amended soil, lightly tamping down as you go to eliminate air pockets.
Step5 Watering
Thoroughly water the peony plant after transplanting to settle the soil and ensure good contact between roots and soil.
Step6 Mulching
Apply a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch around the transplanted plant, keeping mulch away from the stem to avoid rot and pest infestations.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Peony
Step1 Preparation

Prepare the new planting site by digging a hole as deep and twice as wide as the peony plant's root ball. Amend the soil to ensure a well-draining, nutrient-rich environment for the plant to grow.
Step2 Root Pruning

Examine the plant's roots and use pruning shears to trim back any damaged or excessively long roots.
Step3 Positioning

Carefully place the peony plant in the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Spread the roots out evenly in the hole to encourage proper establishment.
Step4 Backfilling

Fill in the hole around the plant with the amended soil, lightly tamping down as you go to eliminate air pockets.
Step5 Watering

Thoroughly water the peony plant after transplanting to settle the soil and ensure good contact between roots and soil.
Step6 Mulching

Apply a 2 to 3-inch layer of mulch around the transplanted plant, keeping mulch away from the stem to avoid rot and pest infestations.
How Do You Care For Peony After Transplanting?
Consistent Moisture

Ensure the soil surrounding the peony remains moist but not soggy for the first few weeks, as this will help establish strong roots.
Root Growth Encouragement

Avoid excessive fertilization for the first few months after transplanting, as this can inhibit root growth. Instead, focus on proper watering and mulching techniques.
Pruning

Trim back any dead or damaged leaves and stems from the peony plant, as this will refocus energy towards root development and new growth.
Pest and Disease Monitoring

Inspect the peony plant regularly for signs of pests or diseases, addressing any issues promptly to ensure a successful transplanting process.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Peony Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant peony?

The ideal time to transplant peony is mid spring to early summer, ensuring a successful growth.
What is the correct spacing for peony?

Place peony about 3-4 feet (0.9-1.2 meters) apart to provide ample space for their growth and prevent overcrowding.
How deep should peony be planted?

Plant the peony with the root buds about 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) below the soil surface for optimal growth.
What type of soil is best for transplanting peony?

Peony prefers well-draining soil, enriched with compost or well-rotted manure for healthy growth.
How much should I water my transplanted peony?

Water peony thoroughly after transplanting and maintain consistent moisture without over-watering, preventing root rot.
How much sunlight does a transplanted peony need?

Transplanted peony thrives in full sunlight to partial shade, with at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Do I need to fertilize my transplanted peony?

Fertilize peony with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, following package instructions, to support robust growth.
How to avoid transplant shock in peony?

Prevent transplant shock by watering thoroughly and providing proper spacing, sunlight, and nutrients for peony.
Should I prune peony after transplanting?

Prune any dead or damaged stems to improve airflow and help peony focus on establishing roots in its new location.
How fast does peony grow after transplanting?

Peony generally takes 1-2 years to fully establish and might take another year or two to bloom after transplanting.

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