logo
Use App
more
Home City Plants Application
English
English
繁體中文
日本語
Español
Français
Deutsch
Pусский
Português
Italiano
한국어
Nederlands
العربية
Svenska
Polskie
ภาษาไทย
Bahasa Melayu
Bahasa Indonesia
This page looks better in the app
care_about care_about
About
care_basic_guide care_basic_guide
Basic Care
care_advanced_guide care_advanced_guide
Advanced Care
care_scenes care_scenes
More About How-Tos
care_seasonal_tips care_seasonal_tips
Seasonal Tips
care_pet_and_diseases care_pet_and_diseases
Pests & Diseases
care_more_info care_more_info
More Info
care_faq care_faq
FAQ
care_new_plant care_new_plant
New Plant Care

How to Care for Norway Spruce

The fastest-growing of all spruces, the norway spruce (Picea abies) makes for a good roosting spot for owls and hawks. Its wood is used for paper, construction lumber, and musical instruments, and its needles can be used to brew spruce beer. It is also a popular choice for Christmas trees.
symbolism

Symbolism

Endurance, courage, protection, optimism, longevity
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Norway spruce
video play
Norway spruce
Norway spruce
Norway spruce
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

After transplanting norway spruce, water consecutively 5-7 times, once every 5-7 days. Mix a little rooting powder in the water; this will help the roots grow. During daily care, keep the soil moist but avoid leaving standing water, as this may cause the roots to rot. In general, water once every 10 days. If the leaves soften and droop, increase the watering frequency. The amount of watering can be adjusted depending on the weather conditions.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Norway spruce?
If you decide to water your Norway spruce, you will be happy to find that it is a straightforward task. One of the easiest ways to water this tree is by simply turning on your garden hose and using it to soak the soil slowly. Your garden hose is the ideal watering tool to use for mature Norway spruce trees, as large specimens may need a high volume of water during each watering. However, for smaller trees, you may get by by using a watering can or some other smaller watering tool. Also, you should try to avoid overhead watering as excessive moisture on this plant’s leaves can lead to disease, especially when the tree is young.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Norway spruce too much or too little?
At times, overwatering can be the result of poor soils. Mainly, if the soil in which your Norway spruce grows does not allow water to drain effectively, the plant will likely begin to decline. If this is the case, you should either amend the soil to improve its drainage characteristics or transplant your Norway spruce to a more favorable growing location. If you grow your Norway spruce in a pot, this can also mean you may need to repot your plant with looser soils in a container that allows for better drainage. An overwatered plant may also contract diseases, which you should try to treat immediately. For an underwatered Norway spruce, the remedy is quite simple. Begin watering more often, and soon your plant will bounce back and return to full health.
The easiest way to tell if you have overwatered your Norway spruce is to observe the plant’s foliage. Specifically, looking at the new growth will give the clearest sign of whether this plant suffers from too much moisture. An overwatered Norway spruce may produce new growth, but that new growth may be discolored or prone to easy breakage. Another sign that the soil for your Norway spruce is too moist is if you notice standing water or that water is not draining quickly in your plant’s growing area. Underwatered Norway spruce trees will also have symptoms present in the foliage. In this case, the leaves may become sparse, brown. Usually, Norway spruce can grow well with rainfulls. If you see such symptoms on your plant, you should consider if there has been too much rain recently or constantly high temperatures, which will help you to make the correct judgment.
Read More more
How often should I water my Norway spruce?
A mature Norway spruce does not need much water at all. In most instances, this tree will become drought tolerant and survive off of nothing more than rainfall. At most, you’ll need to water this plant about once per week during the hottest months of the year, but during other seasons, you probably won’t need to water it at all. The exception to that rule is if you are dealing with a plant that has been newly planted. If that is the case, you should water regularly to maintain consistent soil moisture and help the roots establish themselves. With that said, the most important thing to remember when watering Norway spruce is that this species does not tolerate standing water. As such, when in doubt, you should err on the side of not watering your Norway spruce rather than risking watering it too much.
Read More more
How much water does my Norway spruce need?
The height of summer is one of the few times that you’ll need to water your Norway spruce. At that time of year, it is typical to give this plant about one inch of water per week. However, that amount can change depending on how much it has rained. If it has rained one inch or more that week, you won’t need to give any water to your Norway spruce.newly planted Norway spruce will need more water during the establishment period. Typically, this amounts to watering about once every one to two weeks for the first few growing seasons.
Read More more
How should I water my Norway spruce through the seasons?
The Norway spruce tree will need the most water during the summer months when the weather is the hottest. At that time, you should give this plant water about once per week in the absence of rainfall. During other times of the year, this plant will often survive with no water at all. In spring and fall, you might need to provide some water if the weather is exceptionally hot, but this is rare. Unlike many other plants, the Norway spruce does not enter full dormancy in winter, which means that it will continue growing, during the coldest months. Still, the water needs during winter will remain quite low as the cool temperatures will not cause the soil to dry out quickly..
Read More more
How should I water my Norway spruce at different growth stages?
Young Norway spruce trees need significantly more water than those that are established. A newly planted tree should receive water at least weekly to ensure that the soil remains moist to facilitate root development. After the first growing season, your Norway spruce should be well-adapted to its new growing location and should need much less water. At this time, you can begin following the standard instructions for watering this species, providing supplemental water about once per week during summer when it does not rain. Beyond that, there is no other time at which you’ll need to alter your watering habits based on the growth stages of the Norway spruce tree.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering Norway spruce indoors and outdoors?
It is far more common to grow the Norway spruce in an outdoor growing location. However, it is also possible to grow this plant indoors in a container. In that scenario, one gardener often raise the Norway spruce as the bonsai plant. Whether you grow this plant indoors or outdoors, you can expect its water needs to remain relatively similar. The one difference is that you may need to water an indoor Norway spruce tree a bit more. Indoor plants won’t have access to rainfall during the summer. Also, indoor areas are often much drier than outdoor growing locations, and the size of the pots limits the water-retainability, which can lead to higher water needs.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Applying enough base fertilizers before transplanting can provide nutrients to norway spruce over a long period of growth. In the first year after transplanting, the nutrition-absorption ability of the tree's roots is not very strong, so apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer every 2 weeks. In the fall, apply a little potassium fertilizer to help the trunk grow thick and sturdy. After the plant matures, it's best to fertilize it in spring and summer and only fertilize 2-4 times a year. In late fall, norway spruce slowly enters dormancy, so fertilizing should be reduced and stopped by the end of fall.
Organic fertilizer is the best choice for this slow-growing tree variety. It contains a full set of nutrients that can be utilized continually and reliably. It can also help optimize the soil texture and benefits the plants' growth. If the soil turns dry after fertilizing, water promptly.

Fertilizer

It’s impossible to miss Norway spruce growing in the yard, it makes a statement. A popular landscaping tree in temperate climates, it’s an attractive specimen at every growth stage. It has a long lifespan, compared to some other plants, which means varying levels of care to support its growth stages that include knowing a little bit about fertilization.
Fertilizing Norway spruce in the spring encourages healthy growth. Remember, the plant has a long lifespan, and it needs to be supported. Adding nutrients to the soil can also improve the plant’s health, making it better able to resist common pests and diseases that can stunt growth or shorten its lifespan.
The growing medium doesn’t always supply enough nutrients to support healthy growth. However, Norway spruce is a little different from your garden annuals and perennials. It doesn’t require a lot of extra nutrients. The best time to fertilize Norway spruce is in the spring before new growth appears.
The age of your plant plays a role in the type of fertilizer but remember Norway spruce does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Look for a balanced plant food, it will help support healthy root development and growth but stay away from fertilizers with high nitrogen contents.
How you fertilize Norway spruce is as important as when you add the extra nutrients. Apply the fertilizer once in the spring, around the base of the plant. Try to avoid getting any fertilizer on the trunk. If you are using a granulated fertilizer, cover the pellets with a light layer of soil. It helps ensure the fertilizer is absorbed into the soil.
It can be tempting to keep feeding Norway spruce throughout the spring and summer. You want to encourage healthy growth, but too much fertilizer can have disastrous consequences. All types of fertilizers contain nitrogen, and the nutrient does support healthy growth. However, too much nitrogen can result in root burn.
Some plants thrive with monthly or weekly fertilization, but not Norway spruce. It does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Too much fertilizer can cause it to start dying back. Only apply fertilizer in the spring, skipping the other seasons. In the summer, fall, and winter, do not add fertilizer or organic matter to the soil.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Norway spruce?
Fertilizing Norway spruce in the spring encourages healthy growth. Remember, the plant has a long lifespan, and it needs to be supported. Adding nutrients to the soil can also improve the plant’s health, making it better able to resist common pests and diseases that can stunt growth or shorten its lifespan.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Norway spruce?
The growing medium doesn’t always supply enough nutrients to support healthy growth. However, Norway spruce is a little different from your garden annuals and perennials. It doesn’t require a lot of extra nutrients. The best time to fertilize Norway spruce is in the spring before new growth appears.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Norway spruce?
Some plants thrive with monthly or weekly fertilization, but not Norway spruce. It does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Too much fertilizer can cause it to start dying back. Only apply fertilizer in the spring, skipping the other seasons. In the summer, fall, and winter, do not add fertilizer or organic matter to the soil.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Norway spruce need?
The age of your plant plays a role in the type of fertilizer but remember Norway spruce does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Look for a balanced plant food, it will help support healthy root development and growth but stay away from fertilizers with high nitrogen contents.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Norway spruce?
How you fertilize Norway spruce is as important as when you add the extra nutrients. Apply the fertilizer once in the spring, around the base of the plant. Try to avoid getting any fertilizer on the trunk. If you are using a granulated fertilizer, cover the pellets with a light layer of soil. It helps ensure the fertilizer is absorbed into the soil.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Norway spruce too much?
It can be tempting to keep feeding Norway spruce throughout the spring and summer. You want to encourage healthy growth, but too much fertilizer can have disastrous consequences. All types of fertilizers contain nitrogen, and the nutrient does support healthy growth. However, too much nitrogen can result in root burn.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Norway spruce is shade-tolerant, so it doesn't need much direct sunlight to grow. From spring through early summer, it's best to expose the tree to light for a duration of over 6 hours a day, but a lack of light for a short time won't affect its growth. In summer, when sunlight is harsh, it's best to shade small trees grown outdoors to protect them from long-term, blazing light. If they are potted indoors, move them to a cool, shaded place.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much/long should Norway spruce get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Norway spruce receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
Read More more
What type of sunlight does Norway spruce need?
Norway spruce does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
Read More more
Can sunlight damage Norway spruce? How to protect Norway spruce from the sun and heat damage?
Norway spruce planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Norway spruce during extreme weather events.
Read More more
Does Norway spruce need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Norway spruce from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Norway spruce, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Norway spruce to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
Read More more
What will happen if Norway spruce gets inadequate sunlight?
When Norway spruce receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Norway spruce receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
Read More more
Does Norway spruce need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Norway spruce and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Norway spruce fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
Read More more
Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Norway spruce?
Recently transplanted Norway spruce will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Norway spruce drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Norway spruce that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Norway spruce has lush terminal buds. The tree usually takes on a beautiful triangular shape and does not require pruning in general. When overly pruned, its incisions secrete rosin excessively which affects the tree's normal growth. It's best to trim off overly dense, diseased, and dried branches during the plant's winter dormancy. Prune and beautify the treetop in early spring when buds sprout. About 1/2 of the young branches can be pruned off to create your desired shape. For large, mature trees, it's a good idea to prune off all the branches on the lower trunk to reduce nutrition consumption.
When growing norway spruce for Christmas decorations, you need to control height and width. Prune the treetop and lateral branches appropriately short and continue to cut the newly-grown buds short, as well. Repeat this process many times. Seal pruning incisions with wax or duct tape to keep rosin from effusing.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Norway spruce?
Norway spruce, like most other evergreen trees, absolutely need to be pruned in order for them to grow as happy, healthy trees. Of course, there are lots of reasons that pruning is important, so we’ll talk about those in greater detail. Pruning opens up the inner canopy to airflow and sunlight. Without keeping these pathways open, the inner canopy will be starved of sunlight and air. Therefore, pruning your Norway spruce is not only advantageous, but it also weakens the impact of pests and infections by separating branches from one another. These benefits are far too easy to reap with Norway spruce to neglect them. Aside from keeping your Norway spruce happier and healthier, pruning just makes things look nice and tidy. Who doesn’t love a well-kept tree, anyway?
Read More more
When is the best time to prune my Norway spruce?
Norway spruce can be pruned at different times depending on whether they’re grown indoors or outdoors. For outdoor trees, pruning and trimming should be done when the tree is not actively growing; this generally falls under the colder months of winter, but can vary depending on where you live. However, if you’re growing your Norway spruce indoors, there are lots of different times of the year when it’s okay to trim lightly. For example, if you’re planning on trimming a bit off the top of just one or two smaller branches, then you can trim nearly anytime. For heavier pruning on indoor Norway spruce, it’s best to wait until those same colder months when outdoor Norway spruce wouldn’t normally be actively growing. Norway spruce should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing.
Read More more
What should I do after pruning my Norway spruce?
In order to keep your Norway spruce growing strong, remove any branches or debris that landed at the base of the tree. Keeping the area clear can prevent weeds and underbrush from crowding out the tree, especially if it’s young. Another great tip is to use raw, organic honey to treat large open wounds on the Norway spruce where branches were trimmed. The use of honey prevents any pathogens or potential pests from making their way in. It’s also a good idea to water a little extra after pruning for a week or two. Providing them with a little extra water helps them build natural calluses over the exposed core faster, so they can get back to growing into large, Norway spruce!
Read More more
How can I prune my Norway spruce: tips and techniques?
While most of the Norway spruce won’t need to be pruned until they develop some substantial height, sometimes their branches get a little carried away in the wrong direction. This is why this part of the Norway spruce needs to be pruned in good time. Tools In order to prune your Norway spruce properly, you’ll need the proper pruning tools. While smaller plant shears and garden scissors may not cut it (pun intended), handheld clippers, pruners and loppers will certainly help out. For very tall branches that are out of safe reach, use a pole saw with the necessary safety equipment. It’s also a good idea to wear gloves while pruning to avoid any splinters or cuts in general. How to Prune To prune your Norway spruce, first cut away any dead, dying or diseased branches. Look for pests, irregular growth patterns, and brittle branches or leaves. Snip these off at the branch collar, where the branch intersection is, without scoring the main branch. Next, be on the lookout for extra long branches or leaves that may not be able to support a lot of weight. These branches or leaves will be too heavy and grow downwards, so this can be trimmed back if necessary. Try to find all of the branches that grow either directly up (that are not the primary trunk) and those that grow directly downward. These branches will become an issue because they can effectively block out light and air from inner branches. Trim these back to the branches they stem from as well. If there’s not much space within the canopy for light to reach the center of the tree, you can trim away some excess foliage to make windows for light to shine in.
Read More more
left right
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Norway spruce likes cool and moist climates. The ideal temperature range for tree growth is 4 to 18 ℃. It's hardy and tolerant of temperatures as low as -30 ℃, but young trees and tender branches are less cold-resistant.
Norway spruce likes moisture, it has good adaptability and is slightly drought-enduring. During the spring and summer growing seasons, the tree prefers higher air humidity (70-80%), while in the fall and winter, lower air humidity (55-65%) can help it grow more sturdy.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Norway spruce?
As a cool-weather plant, Norway spruce has a specific temperature range you can keep it in to thrive. For Norway spruce to grow as well as possible, you can keep them between 65-75℉(18-25℃). Norway spruce can handle temperatures outside of this range, but whenever possible, try to keep the area you grow them in within several degrees of these temperature limits.
As for the upper and lower limits of what Norway spruce can withstand, that would fall between 75-85℉(25-30℃) on the higher end and 5℉(-15℃) on the lower end. As Norway spruce prefers cooler temperatures, the higher temperature range is more important to avoid. Going into the higher end temperatures can restrict growth, and having Norway spruce above 85℉(30℃) for long periods of time can result in damage and eventually death.
Read More more
Does Norway spruce require different temperatures for different growing phases?
For each growing phase of Norway spruce, temperatures should be kept within the optimal range of 65-75℉(18-25℃). Norway spruce can tolerate lower temperatures better than high ones, so it won’t particularly hinder growth if your growing area gets as cold as 5℉(-15℃). Below that, however, can start to slow down Norway spruce growth, so if you continue to grow your plants into winter, make sure to keep the room above that temperature.
Read More more
Three tips for keeping Norway spruce temperature under control
Tip #1: Watch for the Signs of Heat Damage
If Norway spruce overheats, there may be warning signs before it begins to die off. First, the leaves may begin to brown, then branches could begin to fall off. This is because the branches themselves are dying as the tree pulls moisture back towards its center of mass. Make sure to keep temperatures lower, and water your Norway spruce more frequently if they are exposed to heat.
Tip #2: Don’t Let Norway spruce Get Too Cold
While Norway spruce does prefer cooler environments, letting the temperatures drop too fast can begin to cause freeze damage. If your growing area dips fast below 5℉(-15℃), the water in your Norway spruce can begin to freeze. This causes the cell walls to burst and the bark to crack. This could slow growth significantly, and if temperatures don’t increase, may begin to cause parts of Norway spruce to die.
Tip #3: Use Shade and Ventilation to Help Keep Temperatures at the Right Level
If you find that Norway spruce is starting to overheat, you can use a combination of shade and ventilation to help bring temperatures back down. If you don’t have access to an air conditioning unit or fans, shade and ventilation are a good cost effective way to bring temperatures back into the optimal range. Once temperatures are corrected, though, make sure to let your plants get sunlight. Norway spruce needs a lot of sun to grow properly, so while shade could work in the short term for temperature correction, Norway spruce should not be left in the shade for too long.
Read More more
Does Norway spruce need different temperatures for different seasons?
The only time you need to worry about different temperatures in different seasons is if you intend to grow Norway spruce outside. In that case, you’ll want to watch your outdoor thermometer during the prime growing seasons, spring and early summer. It's especially important that the temperatures do not exceed 85℉(30℃), as this can damage and eventually kill Norway spruce.
If you do plant them inside to help maintain the best temperature, make sure that the space has ample sunlight. Norway spruce needs a lot of sun to grow, preferring full sun to partial shade levels of sun exposure. Be careful that the level of sunlight doesn’t raise the temperature as well. Direct sunlight is important, but too much combined with high heat will begin to damage Norway spruce.
Read More more
What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for Norway spruce?
The best way to maintain the right temperature for Norway spruce is to grow them within a climate-controlled environment. Because Norway spruce prefers cooler conditions, you’ll want to make sure the room you choose has air conditioning or fans, as well as a way to monitor the temperature. Check the temperature once or twice a day, making sure that it is between 65-75℉(18-25℃). If it isn’t, adjust your climate control settings to make sure that the temperatures sit within that range.
If you intend to grow Norway spruce outdoors, you’ll want to do it in the spring and early summer. It can be much harder to maintain that optimal temperature range outside, so if you want to facilitate maximum growth for Norway spruce, it's usually best to have them outdoors.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Norway spruce grows well in fertile, deep, well-drained, slightly acidic soils. The best soil pH range is 5.1-7.3, making both sandy soil or slightly clay-like soil good choices. As the tree grows slowly and has a long life span, the soil layer should be about 70 cm thick. If barren, the soil can be improved by adding nutrient soil or organic manure.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

We can propagate norway spruce by cutting. It's difficult for norway spruce to grow roots, so the cutting selection is very important. Choose robust, year-old branches in the summer and cut off 10 to 20 cm from them. Dip them in a rooting solution for a while, and insert them into the soil that has been sterilized and wetted. Keep the branches 20 to 30 cm apart from one another and keep the soil moist. When they root, transplant them outdoors by the early spring of next year.

Propagation

Propagating a tree by yourself is difficult, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. If you are interested in this, you can read on.
Tree propagation can be done by cuttings, which is easy to do. Norway spruce can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. It can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful. Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Norway spruce, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Norway spruce into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Norway spruce there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Norway spruce around the middle of spring.
It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Norway spruce to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Norway spruce is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Air layering also works to propagate trees successfully, but the procedure is relatively complicated. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.
If you have collected seeds from the tree, you can try to propagate the tree from its seeds. Only sow Norway spruce seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Norway spruce in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started!
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate. Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
To grow norway spruce in a yard, purchase seedlings and transplant them in early spring. Get the planting pit ready one week before transplanting; its diameter needs to be about 20 cm longer than that of the root ball and have a depth of about 15 cm deeper. It should be no less than 6 m away from other plants. Add organic fertilizers to the bottom of the planting pit before transplanting and mix them well with the soil.
Place the seedling vertically into the pit, shovel 2/3 of the soil back, and water thoroughly once to make sure the moisture around the plant's roots is sufficient. Then, fill the pit fully up with soil and water again. Stomp the soil firmly and keep the pit surface level with the ground. If it's often windy at the planting site, support the young tree with wood sticks or metal poles in case a strong gale threatens to tilt it or knock it down.
Indoor potted norway spruce can be directly purchased. The tree grows slowly and usually doesn't require repotting. Repotting is only necessary if the needles turn yellow and fall off the tree, the roots around the pot brim or at the bottom wither and dry up, or the soil in the pot compacts. Move the majority of the original soil to the new pot with the plant, and add small amounts of organic fertilizers and new soil to provide more nutrients for its growth.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Norway spruce originates from environments with varying moisture levels, often preferring well-drained soil. Water only when the soil starts to feel dry, ensuring the plant's roots don't remain wet for extended periods.
Learn More
Lighting
Full sun
Norway spruce thrives best when exposed to a generous amount of light, but can also endure locations with moderate light levels. In its natural setting, it progresses healthily where there's abundant light. Too much or too little light exposure can impact its growth, causing it to be stunted or sparse.
Learn More
Temperature
-15 to 30 ℃
The norway spruce is native to regions of Europe with cool to cold climates. It prefers a temperature range of 32 to 90 ℉ (0 to 32 ℃) and can withstand temperatures as low as -40 ℉ (-40 ℃). In the summer, it benefits from cooler temperatures and moderate humidity. In the winter, it can tolerate frost and snow as long as it is not exposed to extreme freezing temperatures for extended periods.
Learn More
Transplant spacing
40-60 feet
The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.
Learn More
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

A shading screen should be set up when sunlight is too harsh, as the leaf stems of young trees can get sunburnt. The base of the trunk is also vulnerable, so hay can be piled around it to prevent the soil from compacting due to rapid water evaporation. this will keep evaporation from affecting the roots' absorption of nutrients and respiration. In rainy seasons, pay extra attention to soil drainage, as waterlogging around the roots can result in various diseases.
seasonal-tip
more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

more
1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.
more
2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.
more
3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.
more
4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.
more
5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.

Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

more
1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.
more
2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.
more
3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.
more
4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.

Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

more
1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.
more
2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.
more
3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.
more
4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.
more
5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.

While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

more
1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.
more
2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Norway spruce based on 10 million real cases
Longhorn beetles
Longhorn beetles Longhorn beetles
Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Dieback
Dieback Dieback
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Fruit withering
Fruit withering Fruit withering
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Crown gall
Crown gall Crown gall
Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Fire ants
Fire ants Fire ants
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Longhorn beetles
plant poor
Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Overview
Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.
Solutions
Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
  • Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
  • Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
  • To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
  • Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
  • Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
  • Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
  • Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Branch blight
plant poor
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
Solutions
Solutions
  • Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
  • All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
  • Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
  • Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
  • Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
  • Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
  • When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
  • When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Dieback
plant poor
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
  • Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
  • Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
  • Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
  • Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
  • Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
  • Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
  • Avoid changes to the growing site
  • If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
  • Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
  • Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
  • Avoid excessive pruning
  • Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Crown gall
plant poor
Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Overview
Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.
Solutions
Solutions
  1. Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
  2. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
  3. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
  1. Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
  2. Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
  3. Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
  4. Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
  5. Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Fire ants
plant poor
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
  • Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
  • Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
  • Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
  • Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
  • Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
  • Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
  • Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
  • Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Norway Spruce

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
8 to 9 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 62 m

Name story

Norway spruce
The plant is an evergreen conifer that spreads throughout most parts of the United States and Canada and is probably the most common spruce. Also, it is native to central and northern Europe, including Norway, so it is called Norway spruce.
Christmas tree
Its shape is conical, so it is also widely used as a Christmas tree. Every Christmas, the Norwegian capital provides Picea abies for London, Edinburgh and Washington. Basically, the Christmas tree in the most central square of each city is Picea abies. Hence, it is also called the Christmas tree.

Usages

Garden Use
Norway spruce (Picea abies) is an ornamental evergreen tree that grows well in well-drained acid or neutral soils. This tree is best suited to large gardens and landscapes because it grows up to 50 m and has quite a wide-spreading profile. It is a low-maintenance tree that gives year-round garden interest. For a great mix of colors and textures grow this tree with spirea, stonecrops, and butterfly bush.
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

How can I effectively prevent pests and diseases in the early stages of growing norway spruce?

more more
Norway spruce has only some resistance to pests and diseases. Therefore, the soil needs to be sterilized before planting and properly drained during rainy seasons. Take care not to over prune the tree during maintenance.

How can I prevent norway spruce from being tilted or knocked down by a gale?

more more
When newly-transplanted, the roots of the seedling have not secured a firm grip to the ground, making the tree highly likely to be tilted or blown down in a gale. Therefore, a trellis can be set up for the seedling using a few wood sticks or metal pipes or poles. Cushion the contact points between the trellis and the trunk with hay or protective cloths to prevent the trunk from being bruised by the trellis.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
more
1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-15 to 30 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
more
2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
show more show-more
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
show more show-more
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
show more show-more
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
show more show-more
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
label
main-image
Norway Spruce
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
label-image
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
label-image Download
label
main-image
Norway Spruce
label-image
Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.
label-image
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
label-image
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
plant

Botanist in your pocket

plant
plant

App

plant
close
product icon
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
ad
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
title
Botanist in your pocket
qrcode
Scan QR code to download
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
Norway spruce
video play
Norway spruce
Norway spruce
Norway spruce

How to Care for Norway Spruce

The fastest-growing of all spruces, the norway spruce (Picea abies) makes for a good roosting spot for owls and hawks. Its wood is used for paper, construction lumber, and musical instruments, and its needles can be used to brew spruce beer. It is also a popular choice for Christmas trees.
symbolism

Symbolism

Endurance, courage, protection, optimism, longevity
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
After transplanting norway spruce, water consecutively 5-7 times, once every 5-7 days. Mix a little rooting powder in the water; this will help the roots grow. During daily care, keep the soil moist but avoid leaving standing water, as this may cause the roots to rot. In general, water once every 10 days. If the leaves soften and droop, increase the watering frequency. The amount of watering can be adjusted depending on the weather conditions.
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Norway spruce?
more
What should I do if I water my Norway spruce too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Norway spruce?
more
How much water does my Norway spruce need?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Applying enough base fertilizers before transplanting can provide nutrients to norway spruce over a long period of growth. In the first year after transplanting, the nutrition-absorption ability of the tree's roots is not very strong, so apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer every 2 weeks. In the fall, apply a little potassium fertilizer to help the trunk grow thick and sturdy. After the plant matures, it's best to fertilize it in spring and summer and only fertilize 2-4 times a year. In late fall, norway spruce slowly enters dormancy, so fertilizing should be reduced and stopped by the end of fall.
Organic fertilizer is the best choice for this slow-growing tree variety. It contains a full set of nutrients that can be utilized continually and reliably. It can also help optimize the soil texture and benefits the plants' growth. If the soil turns dry after fertilizing, water promptly.
close

Fertilizer

It’s impossible to miss Norway spruce growing in the yard, it makes a statement. A popular landscaping tree in temperate climates, it’s an attractive specimen at every growth stage. It has a long lifespan, compared to some other plants, which means varying levels of care to support its growth stages that include knowing a little bit about fertilization.
Fertilizing Norway spruce in the spring encourages healthy growth. Remember, the plant has a long lifespan, and it needs to be supported. Adding nutrients to the soil can also improve the plant’s health, making it better able to resist common pests and diseases that can stunt growth or shorten its lifespan.
The growing medium doesn’t always supply enough nutrients to support healthy growth. However, Norway spruce is a little different from your garden annuals and perennials. It doesn’t require a lot of extra nutrients. The best time to fertilize Norway spruce is in the spring before new growth appears.
The age of your plant plays a role in the type of fertilizer but remember Norway spruce does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Look for a balanced plant food, it will help support healthy root development and growth but stay away from fertilizers with high nitrogen contents.
How you fertilize Norway spruce is as important as when you add the extra nutrients. Apply the fertilizer once in the spring, around the base of the plant. Try to avoid getting any fertilizer on the trunk. If you are using a granulated fertilizer, cover the pellets with a light layer of soil. It helps ensure the fertilizer is absorbed into the soil.
It can be tempting to keep feeding Norway spruce throughout the spring and summer. You want to encourage healthy growth, but too much fertilizer can have disastrous consequences. All types of fertilizers contain nitrogen, and the nutrient does support healthy growth. However, too much nitrogen can result in root burn.
Some plants thrive with monthly or weekly fertilization, but not Norway spruce. It does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Too much fertilizer can cause it to start dying back. Only apply fertilizer in the spring, skipping the other seasons. In the summer, fall, and winter, do not add fertilizer or organic matter to the soil.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Why do I need to fertilize my Norway spruce?
more
When is the best time to fertilize my Norway spruce?
more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Norway spruce?
more
What type of fertilizer does my Norway spruce need?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Norway spruce is shade-tolerant, so it doesn't need much direct sunlight to grow. From spring through early summer, it's best to expose the tree to light for a duration of over 6 hours a day, but a lack of light for a short time won't affect its growth. In summer, when sunlight is harsh, it's best to shade small trees grown outdoors to protect them from long-term, blazing light. If they are potted indoors, move them to a cool, shaded place.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
How much/long should Norway spruce get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
more
What type of sunlight does Norway spruce need?
more
Can sunlight damage Norway spruce? How to protect Norway spruce from the sun and heat damage?
more
Does Norway spruce need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Norway spruce from the sun?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Norway spruce has lush terminal buds. The tree usually takes on a beautiful triangular shape and does not require pruning in general. When overly pruned, its incisions secrete rosin excessively which affects the tree's normal growth. It's best to trim off overly dense, diseased, and dried branches during the plant's winter dormancy. Prune and beautify the treetop in early spring when buds sprout. About 1/2 of the young branches can be pruned off to create your desired shape. For large, mature trees, it's a good idea to prune off all the branches on the lower trunk to reduce nutrition consumption.
When growing norway spruce for Christmas decorations, you need to control height and width. Prune the treetop and lateral branches appropriately short and continue to cut the newly-grown buds short, as well. Repeat this process many times. Seal pruning incisions with wax or duct tape to keep rosin from effusing.
Do I need to prune my Norway spruce?
more
When is the best time to prune my Norway spruce?
more
What should I do after pruning my Norway spruce?
more
How can I prune my Norway spruce: tips and techniques?
more
Show More more
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Norway spruce likes cool and moist climates. The ideal temperature range for tree growth is 4 to 18 ℃. It's hardy and tolerant of temperatures as low as -30 ℃, but young trees and tender branches are less cold-resistant.
Norway spruce likes moisture, it has good adaptability and is slightly drought-enduring. During the spring and summer growing seasons, the tree prefers higher air humidity (70-80%), while in the fall and winter, lower air humidity (55-65%) can help it grow more sturdy.
What is the optimal temperature for Norway spruce?
more
Does Norway spruce require different temperatures for different growing phases?
more
Three tips for keeping Norway spruce temperature under control
more
Does Norway spruce need different temperatures for different seasons?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Norway spruce grows well in fertile, deep, well-drained, slightly acidic soils. The best soil pH range is 5.1-7.3, making both sandy soil or slightly clay-like soil good choices. As the tree grows slowly and has a long life span, the soil layer should be about 70 cm thick. If barren, the soil can be improved by adding nutrient soil or organic manure.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
We can propagate norway spruce by cutting. It's difficult for norway spruce to grow roots, so the cutting selection is very important. Choose robust, year-old branches in the summer and cut off 10 to 20 cm from them. Dip them in a rooting solution for a while, and insert them into the soil that has been sterilized and wetted. Keep the branches 20 to 30 cm apart from one another and keep the soil moist. When they root, transplant them outdoors by the early spring of next year.
close

Propagation

Propagating a tree by yourself is difficult, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. If you are interested in this, you can read on.
Tree propagation can be done by cuttings, which is easy to do. Norway spruce can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. It can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful. Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Norway spruce, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Norway spruce into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Norway spruce there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Norway spruce around the middle of spring.
It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Norway spruce to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Norway spruce is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Air layering also works to propagate trees successfully, but the procedure is relatively complicated. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.
If you have collected seeds from the tree, you can try to propagate the tree from its seeds. Only sow Norway spruce seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger or frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm weather, make sure the soil is warmed up sufficiently, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. You need to do it indoors for a successful germination if you want to sow the seeds earlier. To sow Norway spruce in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools to get the job done. Put on your gardening gloves and get started!
  1. Healthy and full seeds, the germination rate of such seeds will be higher
  2. Growing medium with potting mix soil divided into rows
  3. Fertilizer or compost
  4. (optional) a dibbler or stake
  5. A spray bottle to hydrates the soil
  6. A piece of plastic film (Optional)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and the volume of the fertilizer should not exceed one quarter of the volume of the soil when mixing. Step 2: Sprinkle the plants in the soil and cover the seed surface with soil afterwards. Or use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil on the surface of the seed needs to be about five times the thickness of the seed. Step 3: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound. Step 4: Water the soil in the container well after planting to provide enough water for the seeds to germinate. Step 5: Mulch the surface of the container soil to moisturize the soil and promote seed germination. Use a spray can to spray the soil with water when the soil is relatively dry. Keep this until the seeds germinate. Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low light location. But after the seeds germinate, you need to add light to the plant in time, otherwise it will excessive growth
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
To grow norway spruce in a yard, purchase seedlings and transplant them in early spring. Get the planting pit ready one week before transplanting; its diameter needs to be about 20 cm longer than that of the root ball and have a depth of about 15 cm deeper. It should be no less than 6 m away from other plants. Add organic fertilizers to the bottom of the planting pit before transplanting and mix them well with the soil.
Place the seedling vertically into the pit, shovel 2/3 of the soil back, and water thoroughly once to make sure the moisture around the plant's roots is sufficient. Then, fill the pit fully up with soil and water again. Stomp the soil firmly and keep the pit surface level with the ground. If it's often windy at the planting site, support the young tree with wood sticks or metal poles in case a strong gale threatens to tilt it or knock it down.
Indoor potted norway spruce can be directly purchased. The tree grows slowly and usually doesn't require repotting. Repotting is only necessary if the needles turn yellow and fall off the tree, the roots around the pot brim or at the bottom wither and dry up, or the soil in the pot compacts. Move the majority of the original soil to the new pot with the plant, and add small amounts of organic fertilizers and new soil to provide more nutrients for its growth.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

A shading screen should be set up when sunlight is too harsh, as the leaf stems of young trees can get sunburnt. The base of the trunk is also vulnerable, so hay can be piled around it to prevent the soil from compacting due to rapid water evaporation. this will keep evaporation from affecting the roots' absorption of nutrients and respiration. In rainy seasons, pay extra attention to soil drainage, as waterlogging around the roots can result in various diseases.
more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

more
1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.
more
2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.
more
3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.
more
4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.
more
5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.

Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

more
1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.
more
2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.
more
3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.
more
4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.

Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

more
1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.
more
2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.
more
3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.
more
4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.
more
5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.

While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

more
1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.
more
2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Norway spruce based on 10 million real cases
Longhorn beetles
Longhorn beetles  Longhorn beetles  Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Learn More more
Branch blight
Branch blight  Branch blight  Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Learn More more
Dieback
Dieback  Dieback  Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Learn More more
Fruit withering
Fruit withering  Fruit withering  Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More more
Crown gall
Crown gall  Crown gall  Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Learn More more
Fire ants
Fire ants  Fire ants  Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Learn More more
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Longhorn beetles
plant poor
Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Overview
Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.
Solutions
Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
  • Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
  • Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
  • To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
  • Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
  • Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
  • Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
  • Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Branch blight
plant poor
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
Solutions
Solutions
  • Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
  • All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
  • Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
  • Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
  • Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
  • Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
  • When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
  • When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Dieback
plant poor
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
  • Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
  • Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
  • Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
  • Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
  • Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
  • Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
  • Avoid changes to the growing site
  • If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
  • Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
  • Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
  • Avoid excessive pruning
  • Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Fruit withering
plant poor
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
  1. Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
  2. Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
  3. Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
  4. Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
  1. Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
  2. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
  1. Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
  2. Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
  3. Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
  4. Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Crown gall
plant poor
Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Overview
Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.
Solutions
Solutions
  1. Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
  2. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
  3. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
  1. Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
  2. Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
  3. Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
  4. Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
  5. Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Fire ants
plant poor
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
  • Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
  • Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
  • Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
  • Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
  • Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
  • Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
  • Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
  • Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
care_more_info

More About Norway Spruce

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
8 to 9 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Red
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
30 to 62 m

Name story

Norway spruce
The plant is an evergreen conifer that spreads throughout most parts of the United States and Canada and is probably the most common spruce. Also, it is native to central and northern Europe, including Norway, so it is called Norway spruce.
Christmas tree
Its shape is conical, so it is also widely used as a Christmas tree. Every Christmas, the Norwegian capital provides Picea abies for London, Edinburgh and Washington. Basically, the Christmas tree in the most central square of each city is Picea abies. Hence, it is also called the Christmas tree.

Usages

Garden Use
Norway spruce (Picea abies) is an ornamental evergreen tree that grows well in well-drained acid or neutral soils. This tree is best suited to large gardens and landscapes because it grows up to 50 m and has quite a wide-spreading profile. It is a low-maintenance tree that gives year-round garden interest. For a great mix of colors and textures grow this tree with spirea, stonecrops, and butterfly bush.
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

How can I effectively prevent pests and diseases in the early stages of growing norway spruce?

more more
Norway spruce has only some resistance to pests and diseases. Therefore, the soil needs to be sterilized before planting and properly drained during rainy seasons. Take care not to over prune the tree during maintenance.

How can I prevent norway spruce from being tilted or knocked down by a gale?

more more
When newly-transplanted, the roots of the seedling have not secured a firm grip to the ground, making the tree highly likely to be tilted or blown down in a gale. Therefore, a trellis can be set up for the seedling using a few wood sticks or metal pipes or poles. Cushion the contact points between the trellis and the trunk with hay or protective cloths to prevent the trunk from being bruised by the trellis.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
more
1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

more
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-15 to 30 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.
more
2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
product icon close
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
product icon close
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Water
close
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor potted
In the ground
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Essentials
Norway spruce originates from environments with varying moisture levels, often preferring well-drained soil. Water only when the soil starts to feel dry, ensuring the plant's roots don't remain wet for extended periods.
Watering check today
More
Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning
Noonday
Evening
Morning watering can reduce the risk of fungal growth.
Requirements
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
Download the App
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil
1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Watering from the bottom
1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
Soaking the water
1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.
Avoid watering the leaves or flowers. Use a watering can with a long spout when watering to reduce bending and exertion, and ease your fatigue.
icon
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
Download the App
For Norway spruce, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler. This involves using a nozzle or gun to evenly spray water onto the surface of the plant's soil. The nozzle can adjust the flow of water and the spraying range, thus meeting the watering needs of plants of different sizes. Turn them on for 10-20 minutes, allowing the water to fully penetrate into the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Norway spruce is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Norway spruce is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Lighting
close
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Norway spruce thrives best when exposed to a generous amount of light, but can also endure locations with moderate light levels. In its natural setting, it progresses healthily where there's abundant light. Too much or too little light exposure can impact its growth, causing it to be stunted or sparse.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
icon
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Download the App
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
View more
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Norway spruce thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your norway spruce may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Norway spruce enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Norway spruce thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Temperature
close
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The norway spruce is native to regions of Europe with cool to cold climates. It prefers a temperature range of 32 to 90 ℉ (0 to 32 ℃) and can withstand temperatures as low as -40 ℉ (-40 ℃). In the summer, it benefits from cooler temperatures and moderate humidity. In the winter, it can tolerate frost and snow as long as it is not exposed to extreme freezing temperatures for extended periods.
Regional wintering strategies
Norway spruce is highly cold-tolerant and does not require additional frost protection measures during winter. However, before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant generously to ensure the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Norway spruce is extremely cold-tolerant, but the winter temperature should be maintained above {Limit_growth_temperature}. If the temperature drops below this threshold, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
Norway spruce is not tolerant to high temperatures. When the temperature exceeds {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}, it may experience significant leaf drop, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wither and die.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Transplant spacing
close
How to Successfully Transplant Norway spruce?
The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Norway spruce?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Norway spruce?
The perfect season for transplanting norway spruce is during the delightful late spring to mid-summer months. This time offers excellent growth potential and the warmth to create a thriving new home for your plant. Your norway spruce will be grateful for the bountiful choice of moving at this picture-perfect time of year.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Norway spruce Plants?
When transplanting your lovely norway spruce plant, try to space them about 40-60 feet (12-18 meters) apart. This will give each plant enough room to grow and spread its branches comfortably.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Norway spruce Transplanting?
For your norway spruce, it's best to prepare a well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH level. Add some organic matter (like compost) and a slow-release, balanced fertilizer for a great start.
Where Should You Relocate Your Norway spruce?
Your norway spruce should be positioned in an area with full sun to partial shade. They need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day to grow lush and healthy. Make sure it's not too shaded!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Norway spruce?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and norway spruce plant.
Shovel or Spade
To dig the hole for transplanting and to remove the plant from its original location.
Pruning Shears
To prune any damaged roots or branches before transplanting.
Garden Fork
To loosen the soil at the transplant site.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the norway spruce during and after the transplanting process.
Mulch
To insulate the newly transplanted norway spruce and retain moisture in the soil.
Stakes and Ties
To provide support for the norway spruce if necessary.
How Do You Remove Norway spruce from the Soil?
Using a garden fork, loosen the soil at the transplant site to a depth of 12-18 inches. This creates a welcoming environment for the norway spruce roots to grow and take hold.

Dig a hole at least twice the width of the norway spruce root ball and as deep as the root ball.

Inspect the norway spruce root ball and use pruning shears to remove any damaged or circling roots. If necessary, prune damaged branches as well.

Carefully place the norway spruce into the hole, making sure it's vertically straight. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surrounding soil level to allow for settling.

Fill the hole halfway with soil, making sure there are no air pockets around the roots. Water the norway spruce thoroughly to settle the soil. Finish backfilling the hole with soil.

Depending on the size of the norway spruce, it may be necessary to stake the plant for support. Install stakes and secure the norway spruce using soft ties, allowing some movement to prevent girdling.

Apply a 2-4-inch layer of mulch (such as bark chips) around the base of the norway spruce to help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Norway spruce
Step1 Prepare the Site
Using a garden fork, loosen the soil at the transplant site to a depth of 12-18 inches. This creates a welcoming environment for the norway spruce roots to grow and take hold.
Step2 Dig the Hole
Dig a hole at least twice the width of the norway spruce root ball and as deep as the root ball.
Step3 Prepare the Plant
Inspect the norway spruce root ball and use pruning shears to remove any damaged or circling roots. If necessary, prune damaged branches as well.
Step4 Position the Plant
Carefully place the norway spruce into the hole, making sure it's vertically straight. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surrounding soil level to allow for settling.
Step5 Backfill the Hole
Fill the hole halfway with soil, making sure there are no air pockets around the roots. Water the norway spruce thoroughly to settle the soil. Finish backfilling the hole with soil.
Step6 Stake and Secure
Depending on the size of the norway spruce, it may be necessary to stake the plant for support. Install stakes and secure the norway spruce using soft ties, allowing some movement to prevent girdling.
Step7 Mulch
Apply a 2-4-inch layer of mulch (such as bark chips) around the base of the norway spruce to help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
How Do You Care For Norway spruce After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the norway spruce consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning
Delay any major pruning until the norway spruce has fully established in its new location, typically after one to two years.
Frost Protection
If transplanting in late fall or early spring, cover the norway spruce with a frost blanket to protect it from frost damage.
Monitoring
Regularly inspect the norway spruce for any signs of stress, pests, or diseases, and address any issues promptly.
Support Adjustments
Check stakes and ties regularly, adjusting them as needed to avoid damage to the norway spruce trunk. Remove stakes once the norway spruce is established and can support itself, usually within one to two years.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Norway spruce Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant norway spruce?
The ideal time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer, as it favors their growth and establishment.
What's the optimal spacing for transplanting norway spruce?
For best results, plant norway spruce with an ideal spacing of about 40-60 feet (12-18 meters) apart.
How deep should I plant norway spruce while transplanting?
Plant norway spruce at the same depth it was growing in its original container, ensuring the root collar remains above ground.
What to consider while choosing a location for norway spruce?
Choose a location with well-drained soil, proper sunlight, and enough space for norway spruce to grow to its full size.
How do I prepare the site before transplanting norway spruce?
Before transplanting, clear the area of weeds, dig a hole slightly larger than the rootball, and loosen the soil.
What size of container should I use if transplanting norway spruce into a container?
Use a container with a minimum depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and sufficient width for norway spruce's root system.
How do I take care of the roots during transplanting?
Gently remove norway spruce from its original container, loosen the rootball, and trim any damaged or rotten roots.
Should I water norway spruce immediately after transplanting?
Yes, water norway spruce thoroughly after transplanting to help the roots establish and prevent transplant shock.
How can I prevent transplant shock to norway spruce during the process?
Take care not to damage roots, transplant during ideal season, and water after transplant to avoid shock.
Can I apply fertilizer to norway spruce right after transplanting?
Wait a few weeks after transplanting before applying a slow-release fertilizer to support norway spruce's growth.
Discover care info about seasonal tips, plant diseases, and more?
Cookie Management Tool
In addition to managing cookies through your browser or device, you can change your cookie settings below.
Necessary Cookies
Necessary cookies enable core functionality. The website cannot function properly without these cookies, and can only be disabled by changing your browser preferences.
Analytical Cookies
Analytical cookies help us to improve our application/website by collecting and reporting information on its usage.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_ga Google Analytics These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here. 1 Year
_pta PictureThis Analytics We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_ga
Source
Google Analytics
Purpose
These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
This page looks better in the app
Open