If you decide to water your Norway spruce, you will be happy to find that it is a straightforward task. One of the easiest ways to water this tree is by simply turning on your garden hose and using it to soak the soil slowly. Your garden hose is the ideal watering tool to use for mature Norway spruce trees, as large specimens may need a high volume of water during each watering. However, for smaller trees, you may get by by using a watering can or some other smaller watering tool. Also, you should try to avoid overhead watering as excessive moisture on this plant’s leaves can lead to disease, especially when the tree is young.


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FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Norway Spruce
The fastest-growing of all spruces, the norway spruce (Picea abies) makes for a good roosting spot for owls and hawks. Its wood is used for paper, construction lumber, and musical instruments, and its needles can be used to brew spruce beer. It is also a popular choice for Christmas trees.

Symbolism
Endurance, courage, protection, optimism, longevity

Water
Every 1-2 weeks


Sunlight
Full sun







Basic Care Guide

Water
After transplanting norway spruce, water consecutively 5-7 times, once every 5-7 days. Mix a little rooting powder in the water; this will help the roots grow. During daily care, keep the soil moist but avoid leaving standing water, as this may cause the roots to rot. In general, water once every 10 days. If the leaves soften and droop, increase the watering frequency. The amount of watering can be adjusted depending on the weather conditions.


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What is the best way to water my Norway spruce?
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What should I do if I water my Norway spruce too much or too little?
At times, overwatering can be the result of poor soils. Mainly, if the soil in which your Norway spruce grows does not allow water to drain effectively, the plant will likely begin to decline. If this is the case, you should either amend the soil to improve its drainage characteristics or transplant your Norway spruce to a more favorable growing location. If you grow your Norway spruce in a pot, this can also mean you may need to repot your plant with looser soils in a container that allows for better drainage. An overwatered plant may also contract diseases, which you should try to treat immediately. For an underwatered Norway spruce, the remedy is quite simple. Begin watering more often, and soon your plant will bounce back and return to full health.
The easiest way to tell if you have overwatered your Norway spruce is to observe the plant’s foliage. Specifically, looking at the new growth will give the clearest sign of whether this plant suffers from too much moisture. An overwatered Norway spruce may produce new growth, but that new growth may be discolored or prone to easy breakage. Another sign that the soil for your Norway spruce is too moist is if you notice standing water or that water is not draining quickly in your plant’s growing area. Underwatered Norway spruce trees will also have symptoms present in the foliage. In this case, the leaves may become sparse, brown. Usually, Norway spruce can grow well with rainfulls. If you see such symptoms on your plant, you should consider if there has been too much rain recently or constantly high temperatures, which will help you to make the correct judgment.
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How often should I water my Norway spruce?
A mature Norway spruce does not need much water at all. In most instances, this tree will become drought tolerant and survive off of nothing more than rainfall. At most, you’ll need to water this plant about once per week during the hottest months of the year, but during other seasons, you probably won’t need to water it at all. The exception to that rule is if you are dealing with a plant that has been newly planted. If that is the case, you should water regularly to maintain consistent soil moisture and help the roots establish themselves. With that said, the most important thing to remember when watering Norway spruce is that this species does not tolerate standing water. As such, when in doubt, you should err on the side of not watering your Norway spruce rather than risking watering it too much.
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How much water does my Norway spruce need?
The height of summer is one of the few times that you’ll need to water your Norway spruce. At that time of year, it is typical to give this plant about one inch of water per week. However, that amount can change depending on how much it has rained. If it has rained one inch or more that week, you won’t need to give any water to your Norway spruce.newly planted Norway spruce will need more water during the establishment period. Typically, this amounts to watering about once every one to two weeks for the first few growing seasons.
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How should I water my Norway spruce through the seasons?
The Norway spruce tree will need the most water during the summer months when the weather is the hottest. At that time, you should give this plant water about once per week in the absence of rainfall. During other times of the year, this plant will often survive with no water at all. In spring and fall, you might need to provide some water if the weather is exceptionally hot, but this is rare. Unlike many other plants, the Norway spruce does not enter full dormancy in winter, which means that it will continue growing, during the coldest months. Still, the water needs during winter will remain quite low as the cool temperatures will not cause the soil to dry out quickly..
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How should I water my Norway spruce at different growth stages?
Young Norway spruce trees need significantly more water than those that are established. A newly planted tree should receive water at least weekly to ensure that the soil remains moist to facilitate root development. After the first growing season, your Norway spruce should be well-adapted to its new growing location and should need much less water. At this time, you can begin following the standard instructions for watering this species, providing supplemental water about once per week during summer when it does not rain. Beyond that, there is no other time at which you’ll need to alter your watering habits based on the growth stages of the Norway spruce tree.
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What's the difference between watering Norway spruce indoors and outdoors?
It is far more common to grow the Norway spruce in an outdoor growing location. However, it is also possible to grow this plant indoors in a container. In that scenario, one gardener often raise the Norway spruce as the bonsai plant. Whether you grow this plant indoors or outdoors, you can expect its water needs to remain relatively similar. The one difference is that you may need to water an indoor Norway spruce tree a bit more. Indoor plants won’t have access to rainfall during the summer. Also, indoor areas are often much drier than outdoor growing locations, and the size of the pots limits the water-retainability, which can lead to higher water needs.
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Fertilizer
Applying enough base fertilizers before transplanting can provide nutrients to norway spruce over a long period of growth. In the first year after transplanting, the nutrition-absorption ability of the tree's roots is not very strong, so apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer every 2 weeks. In the fall, apply a little potassium fertilizer to help the trunk grow thick and sturdy. After the plant matures, it's best to fertilize it in spring and summer and only fertilize 2-4 times a year. In late fall, norway spruce slowly enters dormancy, so fertilizing should be reduced and stopped by the end of fall.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Norway spruce?
Fertilizing Norway spruce in the spring encourages healthy growth. Remember, the plant has a long lifespan, and it needs to be supported. Adding nutrients to the soil can also improve the plant’s health, making it better able to resist common pests and diseases that can stunt growth or shorten its lifespan.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Norway spruce?
The growing medium doesn’t always supply enough nutrients to support healthy growth. However, Norway spruce is a little different from your garden annuals and perennials. It doesn’t require a lot of extra nutrients. The best time to fertilize Norway spruce is in the spring before new growth appears.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Norway spruce?
Some plants thrive with monthly or weekly fertilization, but not Norway spruce. It does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Too much fertilizer can cause it to start dying back. Only apply fertilizer in the spring, skipping the other seasons. In the summer, fall, and winter, do not add fertilizer or organic matter to the soil.
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What type of fertilizer does my Norway spruce need?
The age of your plant plays a role in the type of fertilizer but remember Norway spruce does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Look for a balanced plant food, it will help support healthy root development and growth but stay away from fertilizers with high nitrogen contents.
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How do I fertilize my Norway spruce?
How you fertilize Norway spruce is as important as when you add the extra nutrients. Apply the fertilizer once in the spring, around the base of the plant. Try to avoid getting any fertilizer on the trunk. If you are using a granulated fertilizer, cover the pellets with a light layer of soil. It helps ensure the fertilizer is absorbed into the soil.
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What happens if I fertilize my Norway spruce too much?
It can be tempting to keep feeding Norway spruce throughout the spring and summer. You want to encourage healthy growth, but too much fertilizer can have disastrous consequences. All types of fertilizers contain nitrogen, and the nutrient does support healthy growth. However, too much nitrogen can result in root burn.
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Sunlight
Norway spruce is shade-tolerant, so it doesn't need much direct sunlight to grow. From spring through early summer, it's best to expose the tree to light for a duration of over 6 hours a day, but a lack of light for a short time won't affect its growth. In summer, when sunlight is harsh, it's best to shade small trees grown outdoors to protect them from long-term, blazing light. If they are potted indoors, move them to a cool, shaded place.


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How much/long should Norway spruce get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Norway spruce receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Norway spruce need?
Norway spruce does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Norway spruce? How to protect Norway spruce from the sun and heat damage?
Norway spruce planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Norway spruce during extreme weather events.
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Does Norway spruce need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Norway spruce from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Norway spruce, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Norway spruce to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Norway spruce gets inadequate sunlight?
When Norway spruce receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Norway spruce receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Norway spruce need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Norway spruce and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Norway spruce fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Norway spruce?
Recently transplanted Norway spruce will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Norway spruce drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Norway spruce that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Norway spruce has lush terminal buds. The tree usually takes on a beautiful triangular shape and does not require pruning in general. When overly pruned, its incisions secrete rosin excessively which affects the tree's normal growth. It's best to trim off overly dense, diseased, and dried branches during the plant's winter dormancy. Prune and beautify the treetop in early spring when buds sprout. About 1/2 of the young branches can be pruned off to create your desired shape. For large, mature trees, it's a good idea to prune off all the branches on the lower trunk to reduce nutrition consumption.
When growing norway spruce for Christmas decorations, you need to control height and width. Prune the treetop and lateral branches appropriately short and continue to cut the newly-grown buds short, as well. Repeat this process many times. Seal pruning incisions with wax or duct tape to keep rosin from effusing.

Do I need to prune my Norway spruce?
Norway spruce, like most other evergreen trees, absolutely need to be pruned in order for them to grow as happy, healthy trees. Of course, there are lots of reasons that pruning is important, so we’ll talk about those in greater detail. Pruning opens up the inner canopy to airflow and sunlight. Without keeping these pathways open, the inner canopy will be starved of sunlight and air. Therefore, pruning your Norway spruce is not only advantageous, but it also weakens the impact of pests and infections by separating branches from one another. These benefits are far too easy to reap with Norway spruce to neglect them. Aside from keeping your Norway spruce happier and healthier, pruning just makes things look nice and tidy. Who doesn’t love a well-kept tree, anyway?
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When is the best time to prune my Norway spruce?
Norway spruce can be pruned at different times depending on whether they’re grown indoors or outdoors. For outdoor trees, pruning and trimming should be done when the tree is not actively growing; this generally falls under the colder months of winter, but can vary depending on where you live. However, if you’re growing your Norway spruce indoors, there are lots of different times of the year when it’s okay to trim lightly. For example, if you’re planning on trimming a bit off the top of just one or two smaller branches, then you can trim nearly anytime. For heavier pruning on indoor Norway spruce, it’s best to wait until those same colder months when outdoor Norway spruce wouldn’t normally be actively growing. Norway spruce should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing.
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What should I do after pruning my Norway spruce?
In order to keep your Norway spruce growing strong, remove any branches or debris that landed at the base of the tree. Keeping the area clear can prevent weeds and underbrush from crowding out the tree, especially if it’s young. Another great tip is to use raw, organic honey to treat large open wounds on the Norway spruce where branches were trimmed. The use of honey prevents any pathogens or potential pests from making their way in. It’s also a good idea to water a little extra after pruning for a week or two. Providing them with a little extra water helps them build natural calluses over the exposed core faster, so they can get back to growing into large, Norway spruce!
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How can I prune my Norway spruce: tips and techniques?
While most of the Norway spruce won’t need to be pruned until they develop some substantial height, sometimes their branches get a little carried away in the wrong direction. This is why this part of the Norway spruce needs to be pruned in good time. Tools In order to prune your Norway spruce properly, you’ll need the proper pruning tools. While smaller plant shears and garden scissors may not cut it (pun intended), handheld clippers, pruners and loppers will certainly help out. For very tall branches that are out of safe reach, use a pole saw with the necessary safety equipment. It’s also a good idea to wear gloves while pruning to avoid any splinters or cuts in general. How to Prune To prune your Norway spruce, first cut away any dead, dying or diseased branches. Look for pests, irregular growth patterns, and brittle branches or leaves. Snip these off at the branch collar, where the branch intersection is, without scoring the main branch. Next, be on the lookout for extra long branches or leaves that may not be able to support a lot of weight. These branches or leaves will be too heavy and grow downwards, so this can be trimmed back if necessary. Try to find all of the branches that grow either directly up (that are not the primary trunk) and those that grow directly downward. These branches will become an issue because they can effectively block out light and air from inner branches. Trim these back to the branches they stem from as well. If there’s not much space within the canopy for light to reach the center of the tree, you can trim away some excess foliage to make windows for light to shine in.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Norway spruce likes cool and moist climates. The ideal temperature range for tree growth is 4 to 18 ℃. It's hardy and tolerant of temperatures as low as -30 ℃, but young trees and tender branches are less cold-resistant.
Norway spruce likes moisture, it has good adaptability and is slightly drought-enduring. During the spring and summer growing seasons, the tree prefers higher air humidity (70-80%), while in the fall and winter, lower air humidity (55-65%) can help it grow more sturdy.

What is the optimal temperature for Norway spruce?
As a cool-weather plant, Norway spruce has a specific temperature range you can keep it in to thrive. For Norway spruce to grow as well as possible, you can keep them between 65-75℉(18-25℃). Norway spruce can handle temperatures outside of this range, but whenever possible, try to keep the area you grow them in within several degrees of these temperature limits.
As for the upper and lower limits of what Norway spruce can withstand, that would fall between 75-85℉(25-30℃) on the higher end and 5℉(-15℃) on the lower end. As Norway spruce prefers cooler temperatures, the higher temperature range is more important to avoid. Going into the higher end temperatures can restrict growth, and having Norway spruce above 85℉(30℃) for long periods of time can result in damage and eventually death.
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Does Norway spruce require different temperatures for different growing phases?
For each growing phase of Norway spruce, temperatures should be kept within the optimal range of 65-75℉(18-25℃). Norway spruce can tolerate lower temperatures better than high ones, so it won’t particularly hinder growth if your growing area gets as cold as 5℉(-15℃). Below that, however, can start to slow down Norway spruce growth, so if you continue to grow your plants into winter, make sure to keep the room above that temperature.
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Three tips for keeping Norway spruce temperature under control
Tip #1: Watch for the Signs of Heat Damage
If Norway spruce overheats, there may be warning signs before it begins to die off. First, the leaves may begin to brown, then branches could begin to fall off. This is because the branches themselves are dying as the tree pulls moisture back towards its center of mass. Make sure to keep temperatures lower, and water your Norway spruce more frequently if they are exposed to heat.
Tip #2: Don’t Let Norway spruce Get Too Cold
While Norway spruce does prefer cooler environments, letting the temperatures drop too fast can begin to cause freeze damage. If your growing area dips fast below 5℉(-15℃), the water in your Norway spruce can begin to freeze. This causes the cell walls to burst and the bark to crack. This could slow growth significantly, and if temperatures don’t increase, may begin to cause parts of Norway spruce to die.
Tip #3: Use Shade and Ventilation to Help Keep Temperatures at the Right Level
If you find that Norway spruce is starting to overheat, you can use a combination of shade and ventilation to help bring temperatures back down. If you don’t have access to an air conditioning unit or fans, shade and ventilation are a good cost effective way to bring temperatures back into the optimal range. Once temperatures are corrected, though, make sure to let your plants get sunlight. Norway spruce needs a lot of sun to grow properly, so while shade could work in the short term for temperature correction, Norway spruce should not be left in the shade for too long.
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Does Norway spruce need different temperatures for different seasons?
The only time you need to worry about different temperatures in different seasons is if you intend to grow Norway spruce outside. In that case, you’ll want to watch your outdoor thermometer during the prime growing seasons, spring and early summer. It's especially important that the temperatures do not exceed 85℉(30℃), as this can damage and eventually kill Norway spruce.
If you do plant them inside to help maintain the best temperature, make sure that the space has ample sunlight. Norway spruce needs a lot of sun to grow, preferring full sun to partial shade levels of sun exposure. Be careful that the level of sunlight doesn’t raise the temperature as well. Direct sunlight is important, but too much combined with high heat will begin to damage Norway spruce.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for Norway spruce?
The best way to maintain the right temperature for Norway spruce is to grow them within a climate-controlled environment. Because Norway spruce prefers cooler conditions, you’ll want to make sure the room you choose has air conditioning or fans, as well as a way to monitor the temperature. Check the temperature once or twice a day, making sure that it is between 65-75℉(18-25℃). If it isn’t, adjust your climate control settings to make sure that the temperatures sit within that range.
If you intend to grow Norway spruce outdoors, you’ll want to do it in the spring and early summer. It can be much harder to maintain that optimal temperature range outside, so if you want to facilitate maximum growth for Norway spruce, it's usually best to have them outdoors.
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Soil
Norway spruce grows well in fertile, deep, well-drained, slightly acidic soils. The best soil pH range is 5.1-7.3, making both sandy soil or slightly clay-like soil good choices. As the tree grows slowly and has a long life span, the soil layer should be about 70 cm thick. If barren, the soil can be improved by adding nutrient soil or organic manure.


Propagation

Planting
We can propagate norway spruce by cutting. It's difficult for norway spruce to grow roots, so the cutting selection is very important. Choose robust, year-old branches in the summer and cut off 10 to 20 cm from them. Dip them in a rooting solution for a while, and insert them into the soil that has been sterilized and wetted. Keep the branches 20 to 30 cm apart from one another and keep the soil moist. When they root, transplant them outdoors by the early spring of next year.
Propagation
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To grow norway spruce in a yard, purchase seedlings and transplant them in early spring. Get the planting pit ready one week before transplanting; its diameter needs to be about 20 cm longer than that of the root ball and have a depth of about 15 cm deeper. It should be no less than 6 m away from other plants. Add organic fertilizers to the bottom of the planting pit before transplanting and mix them well with the soil.
Place the seedling vertically into the pit, shovel 2/3 of the soil back, and water thoroughly once to make sure the moisture around the plant's roots is sufficient. Then, fill the pit fully up with soil and water again. Stomp the soil firmly and keep the pit surface level with the ground. If it's often windy at the planting site, support the young tree with wood sticks or metal poles in case a strong gale threatens to tilt it or knock it down.
Indoor potted norway spruce can be directly purchased. The tree grows slowly and usually doesn't require repotting. Repotting is only necessary if the needles turn yellow and fall off the tree, the roots around the pot brim or at the bottom wither and dry up, or the soil in the pot compacts. Move the majority of the original soil to the new pot with the plant, and add small amounts of organic fertilizers and new soil to provide more nutrients for its growth.


Transplanting
The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.


More About How-Tos

Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Norway spruce originates from environments with varying moisture levels, often preferring well-drained soil. Water only when the soil starts to feel dry, ensuring the plant's roots don't remain wet for extended periods.
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Lighting
Full sun
Norway spruce thrives best when exposed to a generous amount of light, but can also endure locations with moderate light levels. In its natural setting, it progresses healthily where there's abundant light. Too much or too little light exposure can impact its growth, causing it to be stunted or sparse.

Temperature
-15 to 30 ℃
The norway spruce is native to regions of Europe with cool to cold climates. It prefers a temperature range of 32 to 90 ℉ (0 to 32 ℃) and can withstand temperatures as low as -40 ℉ (-40 ℃). In the summer, it benefits from cooler temperatures and moderate humidity. In the winter, it can tolerate frost and snow as long as it is not exposed to extreme freezing temperatures for extended periods.

Transplant spacing
40-60 feet
The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
A shading screen should be set up when sunlight is too harsh, as the leaf stems of young trees can get sunburnt. The base of the trunk is also vulnerable, so hay can be piled around it to prevent the soil from compacting due to rapid water evaporation. this will keep evaporation from affecting the roots' absorption of nutrients and respiration. In rainy seasons, pay extra attention to soil drainage, as waterlogging around the roots can result in various diseases.


Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.

2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.

3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.

4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.

5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.

2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.

3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.

4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.

2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.

3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.

4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.

5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.

2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Norway spruce based on 10 million real cases



Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.



Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.



Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches



Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.



Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.



Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.

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Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.

Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.

Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.

Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
- Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
- Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
- To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
- Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.

Prevention
- Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
- Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
- Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
- Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
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Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.

Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.

Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.

Disease Cause
- Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
- Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
- Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
- Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees

Solutions
- Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
- All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
- Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.

Prevention
- Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
- Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
- Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
- Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
- When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
- When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.

Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.

Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
- Dead or dying branches and twigs
- Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
- A delayed flush of growth in the spring
- Leaf margins become scorched
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
- Early leaf drop
- Reduced growth of twigs and stems
- Thinning of crown foliage
- Production of suckers on trunk and branches
- Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.

Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
- Cankers or wilts
- Stem or root rots
- Nematodes
- Stem or root boring insects
- Pavement being placed over root systems
- Winter injury from cold
- Salt damage
- Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
- Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.

Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
- Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
- Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
- Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches

Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
- Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
- Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
- Avoid changes to the growing site
- If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
- Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
- Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
- Avoid excessive pruning
- Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.

Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.

Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.

Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.

Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.

Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.

Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.

Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.

Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.

Solutions
- Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
- Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
- Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
- Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
- Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
- Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
- Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.

Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.

Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.

Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.

Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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More About Norway Spruce

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
8 to 9 m

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer

Flower Color
Red
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm

Plant Height
30 to 62 m
Name story
Norway spruce
The plant is an evergreen conifer that spreads throughout most parts of the United States and Canada and is probably the most common spruce. Also, it is native to central and northern Europe, including Norway, so it is called Norway spruce.
Christmas tree
Its shape is conical, so it is also widely used as a Christmas tree. Every Christmas, the Norwegian capital provides Picea abies for London, Edinburgh and Washington. Basically, the Christmas tree in the most central square of each city is Picea abies. Hence, it is also called the Christmas tree.
Usages
Garden Use
Norway spruce (Picea abies) is an ornamental evergreen tree that grows well in well-drained acid or neutral soils. This tree is best suited to large gardens and landscapes because it grows up to 50 m and has quite a wide-spreading profile. It is a low-maintenance tree that gives year-round garden interest. For a great mix of colors and textures grow this tree with spirea, stonecrops, and butterfly bush.

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Common Problems
How can I effectively prevent pests and diseases in the early stages of growing norway spruce?


Norway spruce has only some resistance to pests and diseases. Therefore, the soil needs to be sterilized before planting and properly drained during rainy seasons. Take care not to over prune the tree during maintenance.
How can I prevent norway spruce from being tilted or knocked down by a gale?


When newly-transplanted, the roots of the seedling have not secured a firm grip to the ground, making the tree highly likely to be tilted or blown down in a gale. Therefore, a trellis can be set up for the seedling using a few wood sticks or metal pipes or poles. Cushion the contact points between the trellis and the trunk with hay or protective cloths to prevent the trunk from being bruised by the trellis.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-15 to 30 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.

2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2

Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
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Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Norway Spruce

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.

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Norway Spruce

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
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Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
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How to Care for Norway Spruce
The fastest-growing of all spruces, the norway spruce (Picea abies) makes for a good roosting spot for owls and hawks. Its wood is used for paper, construction lumber, and musical instruments, and its needles can be used to brew spruce beer. It is also a popular choice for Christmas trees.

Symbolism
Endurance, courage, protection, optimism, longevity

Every 1-2 weeks
Water


Full sun
Sunlight


Basic Care Guide

Water

After transplanting norway spruce, water consecutively 5-7 times, once every 5-7 days. Mix a little rooting powder in the water; this will help the roots grow. During daily care, keep the soil moist but avoid leaving standing water, as this may cause the roots to rot. In general, water once every 10 days. If the leaves soften and droop, increase the watering frequency. The amount of watering can be adjusted depending on the weather conditions.

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What is the best way to water my Norway spruce?

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How often should I water my Norway spruce?

How much water does my Norway spruce need?

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Fertilizer

Applying enough base fertilizers before transplanting can provide nutrients to norway spruce over a long period of growth. In the first year after transplanting, the nutrition-absorption ability of the tree's roots is not very strong, so apply nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer every 2 weeks. In the fall, apply a little potassium fertilizer to help the trunk grow thick and sturdy. After the plant matures, it's best to fertilize it in spring and summer and only fertilize 2-4 times a year. In late fall, norway spruce slowly enters dormancy, so fertilizing should be reduced and stopped by the end of fall.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Norway spruce?

When is the best time to fertilize my Norway spruce?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Norway spruce?

What type of fertilizer does my Norway spruce need?

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Sunlight

Norway spruce is shade-tolerant, so it doesn't need much direct sunlight to grow. From spring through early summer, it's best to expose the tree to light for a duration of over 6 hours a day, but a lack of light for a short time won't affect its growth. In summer, when sunlight is harsh, it's best to shade small trees grown outdoors to protect them from long-term, blazing light. If they are potted indoors, move them to a cool, shaded place.

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How much/long should Norway spruce get sunlight per day for healthy growth?

What type of sunlight does Norway spruce need?

Can sunlight damage Norway spruce? How to protect Norway spruce from the sun and heat damage?

Does Norway spruce need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Norway spruce from the sun?

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Pruning

Norway spruce has lush terminal buds. The tree usually takes on a beautiful triangular shape and does not require pruning in general. When overly pruned, its incisions secrete rosin excessively which affects the tree's normal growth. It's best to trim off overly dense, diseased, and dried branches during the plant's winter dormancy. Prune and beautify the treetop in early spring when buds sprout. About 1/2 of the young branches can be pruned off to create your desired shape. For large, mature trees, it's a good idea to prune off all the branches on the lower trunk to reduce nutrition consumption.
When growing norway spruce for Christmas decorations, you need to control height and width. Prune the treetop and lateral branches appropriately short and continue to cut the newly-grown buds short, as well. Repeat this process many times. Seal pruning incisions with wax or duct tape to keep rosin from effusing.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Norway spruce likes cool and moist climates. The ideal temperature range for tree growth is 4 to 18 ℃. It's hardy and tolerant of temperatures as low as -30 ℃, but young trees and tender branches are less cold-resistant.
Norway spruce likes moisture, it has good adaptability and is slightly drought-enduring. During the spring and summer growing seasons, the tree prefers higher air humidity (70-80%), while in the fall and winter, lower air humidity (55-65%) can help it grow more sturdy.
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Soil

Norway spruce grows well in fertile, deep, well-drained, slightly acidic soils. The best soil pH range is 5.1-7.3, making both sandy soil or slightly clay-like soil good choices. As the tree grows slowly and has a long life span, the soil layer should be about 70 cm thick. If barren, the soil can be improved by adding nutrient soil or organic manure.

Propagation

Planting

We can propagate norway spruce by cutting. It's difficult for norway spruce to grow roots, so the cutting selection is very important. Choose robust, year-old branches in the summer and cut off 10 to 20 cm from them. Dip them in a rooting solution for a while, and insert them into the soil that has been sterilized and wetted. Keep the branches 20 to 30 cm apart from one another and keep the soil moist. When they root, transplant them outdoors by the early spring of next year.

Propagation
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To grow norway spruce in a yard, purchase seedlings and transplant them in early spring. Get the planting pit ready one week before transplanting; its diameter needs to be about 20 cm longer than that of the root ball and have a depth of about 15 cm deeper. It should be no less than 6 m away from other plants. Add organic fertilizers to the bottom of the planting pit before transplanting and mix them well with the soil.
Place the seedling vertically into the pit, shovel 2/3 of the soil back, and water thoroughly once to make sure the moisture around the plant's roots is sufficient. Then, fill the pit fully up with soil and water again. Stomp the soil firmly and keep the pit surface level with the ground. If it's often windy at the planting site, support the young tree with wood sticks or metal poles in case a strong gale threatens to tilt it or knock it down.
Indoor potted norway spruce can be directly purchased. The tree grows slowly and usually doesn't require repotting. Repotting is only necessary if the needles turn yellow and fall off the tree, the roots around the pot brim or at the bottom wither and dry up, or the soil in the pot compacts. Move the majority of the original soil to the new pot with the plant, and add small amounts of organic fertilizers and new soil to provide more nutrients for its growth.

Transplanting

The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
A shading screen should be set up when sunlight is too harsh, as the leaf stems of young trees can get sunburnt. The base of the trunk is also vulnerable, so hay can be piled around it to prevent the soil from compacting due to rapid water evaporation. this will keep evaporation from affecting the roots' absorption of nutrients and respiration. In rainy seasons, pay extra attention to soil drainage, as waterlogging around the roots can result in various diseases.

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.

2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.

3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.

4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.

5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.

2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.

3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.

4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.

2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.

3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.

4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.

5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.

2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Norway spruce based on 10 million real cases
Longhorn beetles



The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
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Branch blight



Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Learn More

Dieback



There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
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Fruit withering



Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
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Crown gall



Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
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Fire ants



Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Learn More


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Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.

Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.

Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.

Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
- Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
- Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
- To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
- Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.

Prevention
- Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
- Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
- Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
- Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
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Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.

Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.

Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.

Disease Cause
- Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
- Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
- Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
- Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees

Solutions
- Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
- All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
- Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.

Prevention
- Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
- Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
- Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
- Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
- When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
- When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.

Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.

Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
- Dead or dying branches and twigs
- Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
- A delayed flush of growth in the spring
- Leaf margins become scorched
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
- Early leaf drop
- Reduced growth of twigs and stems
- Thinning of crown foliage
- Production of suckers on trunk and branches
- Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.

Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
- Cankers or wilts
- Stem or root rots
- Nematodes
- Stem or root boring insects
- Pavement being placed over root systems
- Winter injury from cold
- Salt damage
- Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
- Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.

Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
- Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
- Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
- Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches

Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
- Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
- Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
- Avoid changes to the growing site
- If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
- Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
- Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
- Avoid excessive pruning
- Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.

Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.

Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.

Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.

Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.

Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.

Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.

Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.

Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.

Solutions
- Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
- Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
- Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
- Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
- Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
- Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
- Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
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Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.

Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.

Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.

Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
- Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
- Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
- Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
- Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
- Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.

Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
- Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
- Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
- Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
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More About Norway Spruce

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
8 to 9 m

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer

Flower Color
Red
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm

Plant Height
30 to 62 m
Name story
Norway spruce
The plant is an evergreen conifer that spreads throughout most parts of the United States and Canada and is probably the most common spruce. Also, it is native to central and northern Europe, including Norway, so it is called Norway spruce.
Christmas tree
Its shape is conical, so it is also widely used as a Christmas tree. Every Christmas, the Norwegian capital provides Picea abies for London, Edinburgh and Washington. Basically, the Christmas tree in the most central square of each city is Picea abies. Hence, it is also called the Christmas tree.
Usages
Garden Use
Norway spruce (Picea abies) is an ornamental evergreen tree that grows well in well-drained acid or neutral soils. This tree is best suited to large gardens and landscapes because it grows up to 50 m and has quite a wide-spreading profile. It is a low-maintenance tree that gives year-round garden interest. For a great mix of colors and textures grow this tree with spirea, stonecrops, and butterfly bush.

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Common Problems
How can I effectively prevent pests and diseases in the early stages of growing norway spruce?


Norway spruce has only some resistance to pests and diseases. Therefore, the soil needs to be sterilized before planting and properly drained during rainy seasons. Take care not to over prune the tree during maintenance.
How can I prevent norway spruce from being tilted or knocked down by a gale?


When newly-transplanted, the roots of the seedling have not secured a firm grip to the ground, making the tree highly likely to be tilted or blown down in a gale. Therefore, a trellis can be set up for the seedling using a few wood sticks or metal pipes or poles. Cushion the contact points between the trellis and the trunk with hay or protective cloths to prevent the trunk from being bruised by the trellis.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-15 to 30 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.

2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2

Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.

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Water


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor potted

In the ground



Essentials
Norway spruce originates from environments with varying moisture levels, often preferring well-drained soil. Water only when the soil starts to feel dry, ensuring the plant's roots don't remain wet for extended periods.
Watering check today
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Spring
Summer
Autumn
Winter
Morning



Noonday



Evening




Requirements

Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency

Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
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Amount and Approach
Watering from the soil

1. Gradually pour water to the soil from above.
2. Stop watering your plant once water begins to flow out of the drainage holes in the pot.
3. Allow it to rest for 1 minute, then discard any water remaining in the tray, making sure your plant is not sitting in the water.

Watering from the bottom

1. Fill the tray with water, ensure that the soil makes contact with the water.
2. Let it rest for 10 minutes.
3. Drain excess water from the tray if the soil is uniformly damp.
4. Watering more to the tray if the soil remains dry.
5. Allow it to sit for an additional 20 minutes before draining any excess water.

Soaking the water

1. Select a location for soaking your plants, such as a tray or bathtub.
2. Pour a few centimeters of fresh water into the bottom of your chosen container.
3. Soaking your plant pots within the water, allowing them to absorb moisture for 1 hour.
4. Remove the plants from the water and let them dry.

For Norway spruce, outdoor watering can be done using a sprinkler. This involves using a nozzle or gun to evenly spray water onto the surface of the plant's soil. The nozzle can adjust the flow of water and the spraying range, thus meeting the watering needs of plants of different sizes. Turn them on for 10-20 minutes, allowing the water to fully penetrate into the soil.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Norway spruce is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Root rot

Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop

When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Increased susceptibility diseases

Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Norway spruce is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves

The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage

Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems

Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant

If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.

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Lighting


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight

Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight

Essentials
Norway spruce thrives best when exposed to a generous amount of light, but can also endure locations with moderate light levels. In its natural setting, it progresses healthily where there's abundant light. Too much or too little light exposure can impact its growth, causing it to be stunted or sparse.








Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Norway spruce thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves

New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth

The spaces between leaves or stems of your norway spruce may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop

When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth

Norway spruce enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves

Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Norway spruce thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis

Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald

Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling

Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting

Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching

Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.

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Temperature


Indoor

Indoor

Outdoor



Requirements

Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable

Essentials
The norway spruce is native to regions of Europe with cool to cold climates. It prefers a temperature range of 32 to 90 ℉ (0 to 32 ℃) and can withstand temperatures as low as -40 ℉ (-40 ℃). In the summer, it benefits from cooler temperatures and moderate humidity. In the winter, it can tolerate frost and snow as long as it is not exposed to extreme freezing temperatures for extended periods.

Regional wintering strategies
Norway spruce is highly cold-tolerant and does not require additional frost protection measures during winter. However, before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant generously to ensure the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Norway spruce is extremely cold-tolerant, but the winter temperature should be maintained above {Limit_growth_temperature}. If the temperature drops below this threshold, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
Norway spruce is not tolerant to high temperatures. When the temperature exceeds {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}, it may experience significant leaf drop, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wither and die.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.

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Transplant spacing

How to Successfully Transplant Norway spruce?
The best time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a location that meets its environmental needs, such as well-drained soil and partial shade. Be gentle when handling roots to minimize stress on your norway spruce.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Norway spruce?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Norway spruce?

The perfect season for transplanting norway spruce is during the delightful late spring to mid-summer months. This time offers excellent growth potential and the warmth to create a thriving new home for your plant. Your norway spruce will be grateful for the bountiful choice of moving at this picture-perfect time of year.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Norway spruce Plants?

When transplanting your lovely norway spruce plant, try to space them about 40-60 feet (12-18 meters) apart. This will give each plant enough room to grow and spread its branches comfortably.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Norway spruce Transplanting?

For your norway spruce, it's best to prepare a well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH level. Add some organic matter (like compost) and a slow-release, balanced fertilizer for a great start.
Where Should You Relocate Your Norway spruce?

Your norway spruce should be positioned in an area with full sun to partial shade. They need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day to grow lush and healthy. Make sure it's not too shaded!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Norway spruce?
Gardening Gloves

To protect your hands while working with the soil and norway spruce plant.
Shovel or Spade

To dig the hole for transplanting and to remove the plant from its original location.
Pruning Shears

To prune any damaged roots or branches before transplanting.
Garden Fork

To loosen the soil at the transplant site.
Watering Can or Hose

To water the norway spruce during and after the transplanting process.
Mulch

To insulate the newly transplanted norway spruce and retain moisture in the soil.
Stakes and Ties

To provide support for the norway spruce if necessary.
How Do You Remove Norway spruce from the Soil?
Using a garden fork, loosen the soil at the transplant site to a depth of 12-18 inches. This creates a welcoming environment for the norway spruce roots to grow and take hold.
Dig a hole at least twice the width of the norway spruce root ball and as deep as the root ball.
Inspect the norway spruce root ball and use pruning shears to remove any damaged or circling roots. If necessary, prune damaged branches as well.
Carefully place the norway spruce into the hole, making sure it's vertically straight. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surrounding soil level to allow for settling.
Fill the hole halfway with soil, making sure there are no air pockets around the roots. Water the norway spruce thoroughly to settle the soil. Finish backfilling the hole with soil.
Depending on the size of the norway spruce, it may be necessary to stake the plant for support. Install stakes and secure the norway spruce using soft ties, allowing some movement to prevent girdling.
Apply a 2-4-inch layer of mulch (such as bark chips) around the base of the norway spruce to help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Norway spruce
Step1 Prepare the Site

Using a garden fork, loosen the soil at the transplant site to a depth of 12-18 inches. This creates a welcoming environment for the norway spruce roots to grow and take hold.
Step2 Dig the Hole

Dig a hole at least twice the width of the norway spruce root ball and as deep as the root ball.
Step3 Prepare the Plant

Inspect the norway spruce root ball and use pruning shears to remove any damaged or circling roots. If necessary, prune damaged branches as well.
Step4 Position the Plant

Carefully place the norway spruce into the hole, making sure it's vertically straight. The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surrounding soil level to allow for settling.
Step5 Backfill the Hole

Fill the hole halfway with soil, making sure there are no air pockets around the roots. Water the norway spruce thoroughly to settle the soil. Finish backfilling the hole with soil.
Step6 Stake and Secure

Depending on the size of the norway spruce, it may be necessary to stake the plant for support. Install stakes and secure the norway spruce using soft ties, allowing some movement to prevent girdling.
Step7 Mulch

Apply a 2-4-inch layer of mulch (such as bark chips) around the base of the norway spruce to help conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
How Do You Care For Norway spruce After Transplanting?
Watering

Keep the soil around the norway spruce consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning

Delay any major pruning until the norway spruce has fully established in its new location, typically after one to two years.
Frost Protection

If transplanting in late fall or early spring, cover the norway spruce with a frost blanket to protect it from frost damage.
Monitoring

Regularly inspect the norway spruce for any signs of stress, pests, or diseases, and address any issues promptly.
Support Adjustments

Check stakes and ties regularly, adjusting them as needed to avoid damage to the norway spruce trunk. Remove stakes once the norway spruce is established and can support itself, usually within one to two years.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Norway spruce Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant norway spruce?

The ideal time to transplant norway spruce is during late spring to mid-summer, as it favors their growth and establishment.
What's the optimal spacing for transplanting norway spruce?

For best results, plant norway spruce with an ideal spacing of about 40-60 feet (12-18 meters) apart.
How deep should I plant norway spruce while transplanting?

Plant norway spruce at the same depth it was growing in its original container, ensuring the root collar remains above ground.
What to consider while choosing a location for norway spruce?

Choose a location with well-drained soil, proper sunlight, and enough space for norway spruce to grow to its full size.
How do I prepare the site before transplanting norway spruce?

Before transplanting, clear the area of weeds, dig a hole slightly larger than the rootball, and loosen the soil.
What size of container should I use if transplanting norway spruce into a container?

Use a container with a minimum depth of 18 inches (45 cm) and sufficient width for norway spruce's root system.
How do I take care of the roots during transplanting?

Gently remove norway spruce from its original container, loosen the rootball, and trim any damaged or rotten roots.
Should I water norway spruce immediately after transplanting?

Yes, water norway spruce thoroughly after transplanting to help the roots establish and prevent transplant shock.
How can I prevent transplant shock to norway spruce during the process?

Take care not to damage roots, transplant during ideal season, and water after transplant to avoid shock.
Can I apply fertilizer to norway spruce right after transplanting?

Wait a few weeks after transplanting before applying a slow-release fertilizer to support norway spruce's growth.

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