If you decide to water your Scots pine, you will be happy to find that it is a straightforward task. One of the easiest ways to water this tree is by simply turning on your garden hose and using it to soak the soil slowly. Your garden hose is the ideal watering tool to use for mature Scots pine trees, as large specimens may need a high volume of water during each watering. However, for smaller trees, you may get by by using a watering can or some other smaller watering tool. Also, you should try to avoid overhead watering as excessive moisture on this plant’s leaves can lead to disease, especially when the tree is young.


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Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


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FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Scots Pine
Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) is a native Eurasian pine plant that grows on nutrient-poor, dry, rocky soils. Given the name, it should come as no surprise that scots pine is the national tree of Scotland. It is also important within the forestry industry due to its use for wood pulp and timber.

Symbolism
Hope, renewal, rebirth, divine light

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun






Basic Care Guide

Water
For newly planted seedlings or new plants, water once every morning and evening during hot spells in the summer. Do not water midday, as this can cause root burn or strangle. Water plants according to your individual climate and rainfall in other seasons. For mature plants, only water when they are dry, keeping in mind that these plants are drought resistant. For indoor potted plants, spray water on the surfaces of the leaves once every morning and evening when it is dry. Be careful not to provide excess water - this hinders air circulation in a pot, leading to the rotting of roots and the withering of branches and leaves.
Water
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What is the best way to water my Scots pine?
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What should I do if I water my Scots pine too much or too little?
At times, overwatering can be the result of poor soils. Mainly, if the soil in which your Scots pine grows does not allow water to drain effectively, the plant will likely begin to decline. If this is the case, you should either amend the soil to improve its drainage characteristics or transplant your Scots pine to a more favorable growing location. If you grow your Scots pine in a pot, this can also mean you may need to repot your plant with looser soils in a container that allows for better drainage. An overwatered plant may also contract diseases, which you should try to treat immediately. For an underwatered Scots pine, the remedy is quite simple. Begin watering more often, and soon your plant will bounce back and return to full health.
The easiest way to tell if you have overwatered your Scots pine is to observe the plant’s foliage. Specifically, looking at the new growth will give the clearest sign of whether this plant suffers from too much moisture. An overwatered Scots pine may produce new growth, but that new growth may be discolored or prone to easy breakage. Another sign that the soil for your Scots pine is too moist is if you notice standing water or that water is not draining quickly in your plant’s growing area. Underwatered Scots pine trees will also have symptoms present in the foliage. In this case, the leaves may become sparse, brown. Usually, Scots pine can grow well with rainfulls. If you see such symptoms on your plant, you should consider if there has been too much rain recently or constantly high temperatures, which will help you to make the correct judgment.
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How often should I water my Scots pine?
A mature Scots pine does not need much water at all. In most instances, this tree will become drought tolerant and survive off of nothing more than rainfall. At most, you’ll need to water this plant about once per week during the hottest months of the year, but during other seasons, you probably won’t need to water it at all. The exception to that rule is if you are dealing with a plant that has been newly planted. If that is the case, you should water regularly to maintain consistent soil moisture and help the roots establish themselves. With that said, the most important thing to remember when watering Scots pine is that this species does not tolerate standing water. As such, when in doubt, you should err on the side of not watering your Scots pine rather than risking watering it too much.
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How much water does my Scots pine need?
The height of summer is one of the few times that you’ll need to water your Scots pine. At that time of year, it is typical to give this plant about one inch of water per week. However, that amount can change depending on how much it has rained. If it has rained one inch or more that week, you won’t need to give any water to your Scots pine.newly planted Scots pine will need more water during the establishment period. Typically, this amounts to watering about once every one to two weeks for the first few growing seasons.
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How should I water my Scots pine through the seasons?
The Scots pine tree will need the most water during the summer months when the weather is the hottest. At that time, you should give this plant water about once per week in the absence of rainfall. During other times of the year, this plant will often survive with no water at all. In spring and fall, you might need to provide some water if the weather is exceptionally hot, but this is rare. Unlike many other plants, the Scots pine does not enter full dormancy in winter, which means that it will continue growing, during the coldest months. Still, the water needs during winter will remain quite low as the cool temperatures will not cause the soil to dry out quickly..
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How should I water my Scots pine at different growth stages?
Young Scots pine trees need significantly more water than those that are established. A newly planted tree should receive water at least weekly to ensure that the soil remains moist to facilitate root development. After the first growing season, your Scots pine should be well-adapted to its new growing location and should need much less water. At this time, you can begin following the standard instructions for watering this species, providing supplemental water about once per week during summer when it does not rain. Beyond that, there is no other time at which you’ll need to alter your watering habits based on the growth stages of the Scots pine tree.
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What's the difference between watering Scots pine indoors and outdoors?
It is far more common to grow the Scots pine in an outdoor growing location. However, it is also possible to grow this plant indoors in a container. In that scenario, one gardener often raise the Scots pine as the bonsai plant. Whether you grow this plant indoors or outdoors, you can expect its water needs to remain relatively similar. The one difference is that you may need to water an indoor Scots pine tree a bit more. Indoor plants won’t have access to rainfall during the summer. Also, indoor areas are often much drier than outdoor growing locations, and the size of the pots limits the water-retainability, which can lead to higher water needs.
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Fertilizer
The scots pine likes fertilizer and should be fertilized frequently, with just a small amount each time, during its growth period. It should be fertilized once a month in late spring, early summer, and fall. A fermented organic fertilizer is most effective for promoting growth.
Generally, do not apply a nitrogen fertilizer, such as urea or human urine, because pine needles already absorb nitrogen from the air, and pine roots are sensitive to nitrogen. You would be best off with a liquid fertilizer, applying this when the soil is dry in the afternoon. Water the plant again after fertilizer application, which will help with root absorption.
Do not use fertilizers that haven't been fermented, or those with a higher concentration; the former will burn the roots and the latter will lead to the spindling of needles and more root damage, and could even cause the back-flow of sap, leading to water loss and the withering of the plant. No fertilizer should be applied in midsummer, during severe winters, or in the rainy season in the spring.
Generally, plants in gardens should be fertilized twice during the growth periods in spring and fall. Apply an organic fertilizer once before germination in the spring and apply slightly more fertilizer in the fall to promote robust growth. Stop fertilizing after midsummer so as to prevent spindling.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Scots pine?
Fertilizing Scots pine in the spring encourages healthy growth. Remember, the plant has a long lifespan, and it needs to be supported. Adding nutrients to the soil can also improve the plant’s health, making it better able to resist common pests and diseases that can stunt growth or shorten its lifespan.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Scots pine?
The growing medium doesn’t always supply enough nutrients to support healthy growth. However, Scots pine is a little different from your garden annuals and perennials. It doesn’t require a lot of extra nutrients. The best time to fertilize Scots pine is in the spring before new growth appears.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Scots pine?
Some plants thrive with monthly or weekly fertilization, but not Scots pine. It does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Too much fertilizer can cause it to start dying back. Only apply fertilizer in the spring, skipping the other seasons. In the summer, fall, and winter, do not add fertilizer or organic matter to the soil.
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What type of fertilizer does my Scots pine need?
The age of your plant plays a role in the type of fertilizer but remember Scots pine does not require a lot of extra nutrients. Look for a balanced plant food, it will help support healthy root development and growth but stay away from fertilizers with high nitrogen contents.
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How do I fertilize my Scots pine?
How you fertilize Scots pine is as important as when you add the extra nutrients. Apply the fertilizer once in the spring, around the base of the plant. Try to avoid getting any fertilizer on the trunk. If you are using a granulated fertilizer, cover the pellets with a light layer of soil. It helps ensure the fertilizer is absorbed into the soil.
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What happens if I fertilize my Scots pine too much?
It can be tempting to keep feeding Scots pine throughout the spring and summer. You want to encourage healthy growth, but too much fertilizer can have disastrous consequences. All types of fertilizers contain nitrogen, and the nutrient does support healthy growth. However, too much nitrogen can result in root burn.
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Sunlight
The scots pine can grow in both full sun and partial shade. When placed in a well-ventilated location with sufficient sunlight, the needles will be green and strong. In a hot location with insufficient sunlight, the needles will be weak and will easily turn yellow. Ideally, the plant needs around 5-6 hours of sunlight a day, with good ventilation.


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How much/long should Scots pine get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Scots pine receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Scots pine need?
Scots pine does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Scots pine? How to protect Scots pine from the sun and heat damage?
Scots pine planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Scots pine during extreme weather events.
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Does Scots pine need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Scots pine from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Scots pine, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Scots pine to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Scots pine gets inadequate sunlight?
When Scots pine receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Scots pine receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Scots pine need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Scots pine and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Scots pine fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Scots pine?
Recently transplanted Scots pine will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Scots pine drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Scots pine that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
For an indoor potted plant, any dead, diseased or damaged branches should be removed. You can then adjust the tree's shape by pruning branches, pinching buds, and trimming leaves, giving you a better ornamental effect. Prune the plant before all of its needles fall off, so as to obtain a compact shape, richer lateral and side branches, and a better form overall. Pruning should be done during the dormancy period, so as to prevent excess loss of sap and damage to the plant's vigor.
For a plant in a garden, dense lateral branches should be pruned so as to improve the survival rate. Remove excess lateral branches during the vigorous growth period based on needs, focusing on encouraging the trunk to grow tall and straight. Cut off any diseased or dead branches right away, so as to prevent the spread of pathogens.

Do I need to prune my Scots pine?
Scots pine, like most other evergreen trees, absolutely need to be pruned in order for them to grow as happy, healthy trees. Of course, there are lots of reasons that pruning is important, so we’ll talk about those in greater detail. Pruning opens up the inner canopy to airflow and sunlight. Without keeping these pathways open, the inner canopy will be starved of sunlight and air. Therefore, pruning your Scots pine is not only advantageous, but it also weakens the impact of pests and infections by separating branches from one another. These benefits are far too easy to reap with Scots pine to neglect them. Aside from keeping your Scots pine happier and healthier, pruning just makes things look nice and tidy. Who doesn’t love a well-kept tree, anyway?
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When is the best time to prune my Scots pine?
Scots pine can be pruned at different times depending on whether they’re grown indoors or outdoors. For outdoor trees, pruning and trimming should be done when the tree is not actively growing; this generally falls under the colder months of winter, but can vary depending on where you live. However, if you’re growing your Scots pine indoors, there are lots of different times of the year when it’s okay to trim lightly. For example, if you’re planning on trimming a bit off the top of just one or two smaller branches, then you can trim nearly anytime. For heavier pruning on indoor Scots pine, it’s best to wait until those same colder months when outdoor Scots pine wouldn’t normally be actively growing. Scots pine should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing.
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What should I do after pruning my Scots pine?
In order to keep your Scots pine growing strong, remove any branches or debris that landed at the base of the tree. Keeping the area clear can prevent weeds and underbrush from crowding out the tree, especially if it’s young. Another great tip is to use raw, organic honey to treat large open wounds on the Scots pine where branches were trimmed. The use of honey prevents any pathogens or potential pests from making their way in. It’s also a good idea to water a little extra after pruning for a week or two. Providing them with a little extra water helps them build natural calluses over the exposed core faster, so they can get back to growing into large, Scots pine!
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How can I prune my Scots pine: tips and techniques?
While most of the Scots pine won’t need to be pruned until they develop some substantial height, sometimes their branches get a little carried away in the wrong direction. This is why this part of the Scots pine needs to be pruned in good time. Tools In order to prune your Scots pine properly, you’ll need the proper pruning tools. While smaller plant shears and garden scissors may not cut it (pun intended), handheld clippers, pruners and loppers will certainly help out. For very tall branches that are out of safe reach, use a pole saw with the necessary safety equipment. It’s also a good idea to wear gloves while pruning to avoid any splinters or cuts in general. How to Prune To prune your Scots pine, first cut away any dead, dying or diseased branches. Look for pests, irregular growth patterns, and brittle branches or leaves. Snip these off at the branch collar, where the branch intersection is, without scoring the main branch. Next, be on the lookout for extra long branches or leaves that may not be able to support a lot of weight. These branches or leaves will be too heavy and grow downwards, so this can be trimmed back if necessary. Try to find all of the branches that grow either directly up (that are not the primary trunk) and those that grow directly downward. These branches will become an issue because they can effectively block out light and air from inner branches. Trim these back to the branches they stem from as well. If there’s not much space within the canopy for light to reach the center of the tree, you can trim away some excess foliage to make windows for light to shine in.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
The scots pine is mostly native to the northern hemisphere and can withstand many challenging environmental conditions. Tolerant of temperatures ranging between -60 to 50 ℃, making it suitable for hardiness zones 11 and below, this is a plant that grows best in well-drained, deep and moist soil.

What is the optimal temperature for Scots pine?
The best temperature for Scots pine to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Scots pine during different growing phases?
Research shows that Scots pine will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Scots pine warm in cold seasons?
Scots pine can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Scots pine suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Scots pine if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Scots pine gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Scots pine gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Scots pine?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Scots pine healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Scots pine warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Scots pine, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Scots pine with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Scots pine in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Scots pine is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Scots pine from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Scots pine extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Scots pine in different seasons?
Scots pine is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Scots pine?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Scots pine in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Soil
Scots pine can grow in a variety of different soil types, including bare mineral soil, sandy soil, volcanic ash, calcareous soil, limestone soil, and everything from dusty soil to red soil. Since it is resistant to drought, it will even grow in barren landscapes. However, it grows best in loose, fertile, well-drained, and slightly acidic soil. In the case of too much alkalinity, needles of potted plants will turn yellow and fall, so it is best to use natural mountain soil in pots and containers.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Scots pine is mainly propagated by seeds or branch cuttage. For family planting or potting, cultivated seedlings or pruned potted plants can be purchased from the market. Pay attention to pests, diseases, and appearance when selecting seedlings.
Propagation
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Scots pine is best planted in early spring. Ideally, use healthy and vigorous seedlings with soils balls, as this can greatly improve the survival rate. In the case of many lateral roots, the deep main root can be cut. Otherwise, the root system should be protected to avoid damage.
plant in a high, dry, well-drained, and well-ventilated place, with loose soil. In low-lying places with accumulated water, or places with sticky soil, try building a platform or changing the soil before planting. The planting pit should be treated with a basal fertilizer before planting. Newly planted large seedlings should be supported to prevent them being blown down by the wind. Before planting, excess branches should be pruned off. Protect the plant's shape from damage as much as possible, as this will help to restore growth at a later stage.
Cut back on water before repotting, so as to keep the soil slightly dry. Remove the soil ball from the pot, keeping it whole, and then prune away any old roots from the bottom and sides. Remove some of the old soil from the middle of the soil ball, replace with new soil, apply a small amount of basal fertilizer, and then cover the plant with new soil. Ensure a suitable pot size - a deep pot will easily accumulate water, leading to root rot.

The wood can be used to collect rosin; bark, needles, roots and so on can be comprehensively made into various chemical products; seeds can be extracted for oil.


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
In the summer, hot temperatures, strong sunlight, and frequent precipitation are unfavorable to potted plants. care management is very important at this time. In the hot noon of midsummer, shade should be provided to protect the needles from excess sunlight and leaf scorch. In the summer, the plant enters its dormancy period and grows slowly. However, water evaporates quickly, meaning that pots can quickly turn dry in high temperatures. Generally, potted plants should be watered once every morning and evening. Provide a generous amount of water in the morning, but base your evening watering on how moist the soil is.
During a heavy shower, immediately cover the plant to avoid the loss of nutrients in the soil. Do not prune the plants in midsummer - this can cause a lot of rosin to flow out from the cut, impacting growth. In the spring, summer and winter, make sure that your plant is receiving enough sunlight. Its needles should be short, robust and green, rather than weak and yellowing.
The trees grow in the spring and fall, so keep the soil constantly moist to promote the growth of new branches and leaves. Natural water, or tap water that has been stored in a jar for several days, is best. Try to fertilize twice during the growth periods in spring and fall. Apply an organic fertilizer once before germination in the spring, and a slightly concentrated fertilizer in the fall to promote robust growth. Stop fertilizing after late fall.


Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.

2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.

3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.

4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.

5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.

2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.

3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.

4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.

2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.

3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.

4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.

5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.

2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Scots pine based on 10 million real cases



Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.



Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.



Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.



Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.



Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

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Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.

Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.

Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.

Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
- Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
- Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
- To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
- Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.

Prevention
- Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
- Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
- Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
- Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.

Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.

Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
- Dead or dying branches and twigs
- Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
- A delayed flush of growth in the spring
- Leaf margins become scorched
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
- Early leaf drop
- Reduced growth of twigs and stems
- Thinning of crown foliage
- Production of suckers on trunk and branches
- Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.

Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
- Cankers or wilts
- Stem or root rots
- Nematodes
- Stem or root boring insects
- Pavement being placed over root systems
- Winter injury from cold
- Salt damage
- Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
- Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.

Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
- Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
- Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
- Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches

Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
- Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
- Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
- Avoid changes to the growing site
- If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
- Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
- Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
- Avoid excessive pruning
- Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.

Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.

Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.

Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.

Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.

Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.

Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.

Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.

Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.

Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.

Solutions
- Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
- Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
- Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
- Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
- Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
- Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
- Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
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More About Scots Pine

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
9 to 12 m

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer

Flower Color
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Yellow
Gray

Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm

Plant Height
35 to 48 m
Name story
Scots fir||Scots pine
It is also known as Scots Pine in reference to Scotland of Great Britain. Before the 18th century, this species was more often known as "Scots fir" or "Scotch fir". "Scotch pine" is another variant of the common name, used mostly in North America.
Usages
Garden Use
The mighty but graceful scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) is a tall evergreen tree that is prized for its attractive needles which offer year-round appeal. This fast-growing tree makes for an appealing specimen tree in landscapes, rock gardens, and coastal gardens. This species is also commonly grown as a Christmas tree. Good companion plants include asters, lawson cypress, and butterfly bush.

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Common Problems
Why are the needles on my scots pine turning yellow?


this could be because the soil is too wet, due to over-watering, excess rainfall, or poor drainage. Accumulated water in a pot can cause oxygen deficiency in the soil, along with root rot and needle yellowing. In the summer, needle scorch can be caused as water evaporates off the needles, especially when the sun is strong and the soil is otherwise dry. If water deficiency continues, the plant will eventually die. Yellowing can also occur when the plant is kept in a room with insufficient sunlight and ventilation for a long period in time, or if it is suddenly moved out from a room and is exposed to blazing sunlight.
How do you deal with the yellowing of pine needles?


Begin by observing your plant, confirming whether it's the old needles or the new ones that are turning yellow. If it's the old needles, and they fall off when they are just lightly touched, then this means that the roots are not too severely damaged and the plant can likely be saved. If both old and new needles are turning yellow and don't fall easily, then the plant will be harder to save. this will depend on whether the bark on the branches is wrinkled. If it is, manually peel off some of the branch bark. If it is not green underneath, then this indicates that the plant may have died, whereas green indicates life. If the bark isn't wrinkled and it's only the old leaves that are softening and turning yellow, then you may be able to save the plant.
If the problem is water deficiency, the soil should be watered immediately. However, do not water it too thoroughly - sucking in too much water can "poison" the plant. After watering, place your plant in a well-ventilated room for 3-5 days, moving it to a partially-shaded outdoor location 5 days later. Spray a 0.5% edible vinegar mist 4-6 times each day. Move it to a sunny location a week later for normal care, and spray needles with clean water for humidification.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Chalky, Loam
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.

2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2

Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
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Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Scots Pine

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.

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Scots Pine

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.


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How to Care for Scots Pine
Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) is a native Eurasian pine plant that grows on nutrient-poor, dry, rocky soils. Given the name, it should come as no surprise that scots pine is the national tree of Scotland. It is also important within the forestry industry due to its use for wood pulp and timber.

Symbolism
Hope, renewal, rebirth, divine light

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

For newly planted seedlings or new plants, water once every morning and evening during hot spells in the summer. Do not water midday, as this can cause root burn or strangle. Water plants according to your individual climate and rainfall in other seasons. For mature plants, only water when they are dry, keeping in mind that these plants are drought resistant. For indoor potted plants, spray water on the surfaces of the leaves once every morning and evening when it is dry. Be careful not to provide excess water - this hinders air circulation in a pot, leading to the rotting of roots and the withering of branches and leaves.

Water
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Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Scots pine?

What should I do if I water my Scots pine too much or too little?

How often should I water my Scots pine?

How much water does my Scots pine need?

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Fertilizer

The scots pine likes fertilizer and should be fertilized frequently, with just a small amount each time, during its growth period. It should be fertilized once a month in late spring, early summer, and fall. A fermented organic fertilizer is most effective for promoting growth.
Generally, do not apply a nitrogen fertilizer, such as urea or human urine, because pine needles already absorb nitrogen from the air, and pine roots are sensitive to nitrogen. You would be best off with a liquid fertilizer, applying this when the soil is dry in the afternoon. Water the plant again after fertilizer application, which will help with root absorption.
Do not use fertilizers that haven't been fermented, or those with a higher concentration; the former will burn the roots and the latter will lead to the spindling of needles and more root damage, and could even cause the back-flow of sap, leading to water loss and the withering of the plant. No fertilizer should be applied in midsummer, during severe winters, or in the rainy season in the spring.
Generally, plants in gardens should be fertilized twice during the growth periods in spring and fall. Apply an organic fertilizer once before germination in the spring and apply slightly more fertilizer in the fall to promote robust growth. Stop fertilizing after midsummer so as to prevent spindling.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Scots pine?

When is the best time to fertilize my Scots pine?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Scots pine?

What type of fertilizer does my Scots pine need?

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Sunlight

The scots pine can grow in both full sun and partial shade. When placed in a well-ventilated location with sufficient sunlight, the needles will be green and strong. In a hot location with insufficient sunlight, the needles will be weak and will easily turn yellow. Ideally, the plant needs around 5-6 hours of sunlight a day, with good ventilation.

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How much/long should Scots pine get sunlight per day for healthy growth?

What type of sunlight does Scots pine need?

Can sunlight damage Scots pine? How to protect Scots pine from the sun and heat damage?

Does Scots pine need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Scots pine from the sun?

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Pruning

For an indoor potted plant, any dead, diseased or damaged branches should be removed. You can then adjust the tree's shape by pruning branches, pinching buds, and trimming leaves, giving you a better ornamental effect. Prune the plant before all of its needles fall off, so as to obtain a compact shape, richer lateral and side branches, and a better form overall. Pruning should be done during the dormancy period, so as to prevent excess loss of sap and damage to the plant's vigor.
For a plant in a garden, dense lateral branches should be pruned so as to improve the survival rate. Remove excess lateral branches during the vigorous growth period based on needs, focusing on encouraging the trunk to grow tall and straight. Cut off any diseased or dead branches right away, so as to prevent the spread of pathogens.
Do I need to prune my Scots pine?

When is the best time to prune my Scots pine?

What should I do after pruning my Scots pine?

How can I prune my Scots pine: tips and techniques?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

The scots pine is mostly native to the northern hemisphere and can withstand many challenging environmental conditions. Tolerant of temperatures ranging between -60 to 50 ℃, making it suitable for hardiness zones 11 and below, this is a plant that grows best in well-drained, deep and moist soil.
What is the optimal temperature for Scots pine?

Should I adjust the temperature for Scots pine during different growing phases?

How can I keep Scots pine warm in cold seasons?

What damage will Scots pine suffer if the temperature is too high/low?

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Soil

Scots pine can grow in a variety of different soil types, including bare mineral soil, sandy soil, volcanic ash, calcareous soil, limestone soil, and everything from dusty soil to red soil. Since it is resistant to drought, it will even grow in barren landscapes. However, it grows best in loose, fertile, well-drained, and slightly acidic soil. In the case of too much alkalinity, needles of potted plants will turn yellow and fall, so it is best to use natural mountain soil in pots and containers.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Scots pine is mainly propagated by seeds or branch cuttage. For family planting or potting, cultivated seedlings or pruned potted plants can be purchased from the market. Pay attention to pests, diseases, and appearance when selecting seedlings.

Propagation
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Scots pine is best planted in early spring. Ideally, use healthy and vigorous seedlings with soils balls, as this can greatly improve the survival rate. In the case of many lateral roots, the deep main root can be cut. Otherwise, the root system should be protected to avoid damage.
plant in a high, dry, well-drained, and well-ventilated place, with loose soil. In low-lying places with accumulated water, or places with sticky soil, try building a platform or changing the soil before planting. The planting pit should be treated with a basal fertilizer before planting. Newly planted large seedlings should be supported to prevent them being blown down by the wind. Before planting, excess branches should be pruned off. Protect the plant's shape from damage as much as possible, as this will help to restore growth at a later stage.
Cut back on water before repotting, so as to keep the soil slightly dry. Remove the soil ball from the pot, keeping it whole, and then prune away any old roots from the bottom and sides. Remove some of the old soil from the middle of the soil ball, replace with new soil, apply a small amount of basal fertilizer, and then cover the plant with new soil. Ensure a suitable pot size - a deep pot will easily accumulate water, leading to root rot.

The wood can be used to collect rosin; bark, needles, roots and so on can be comprehensively made into various chemical products; seeds can be extracted for oil.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
In the summer, hot temperatures, strong sunlight, and frequent precipitation are unfavorable to potted plants. care management is very important at this time. In the hot noon of midsummer, shade should be provided to protect the needles from excess sunlight and leaf scorch. In the summer, the plant enters its dormancy period and grows slowly. However, water evaporates quickly, meaning that pots can quickly turn dry in high temperatures. Generally, potted plants should be watered once every morning and evening. Provide a generous amount of water in the morning, but base your evening watering on how moist the soil is.
During a heavy shower, immediately cover the plant to avoid the loss of nutrients in the soil. Do not prune the plants in midsummer - this can cause a lot of rosin to flow out from the cut, impacting growth. In the spring, summer and winter, make sure that your plant is receiving enough sunlight. Its needles should be short, robust and green, rather than weak and yellowing.
The trees grow in the spring and fall, so keep the soil constantly moist to promote the growth of new branches and leaves. Natural water, or tap water that has been stored in a jar for several days, is best. Try to fertilize twice during the growth periods in spring and fall. Apply an organic fertilizer once before germination in the spring, and a slightly concentrated fertilizer in the fall to promote robust growth. Stop fertilizing after late fall.

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.

2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.

3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.

4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.

5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.
Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.

2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.

3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.

4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.
Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.

2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.

3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.

4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.

5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.
While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.

2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Scots pine based on 10 million real cases
Longhorn beetles



The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
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Dieback



There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Learn More

Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More

Plant dried up



The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Fruit withering



Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More

Crown gall



Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
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Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.

Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.

Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.

Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
- Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
- Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
- To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
- Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.

Prevention
- Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
- Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
- Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
- Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
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Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.

Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.

Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
- Dead or dying branches and twigs
- Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
- A delayed flush of growth in the spring
- Leaf margins become scorched
- Pale green or yellow leaves
- Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
- Early leaf drop
- Reduced growth of twigs and stems
- Thinning of crown foliage
- Production of suckers on trunk and branches
- Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.

Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
- Cankers or wilts
- Stem or root rots
- Nematodes
- Stem or root boring insects
- Pavement being placed over root systems
- Winter injury from cold
- Salt damage
- Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
- Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.

Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
- Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
- Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
- Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
- Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches

Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
- Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
- Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
- Avoid changes to the growing site
- If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
- Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
- Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
- Avoid excessive pruning
- Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.

Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.

Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.

Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.

Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.

Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.

Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.

Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.

Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.

Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.

Solutions
- Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
- Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
- Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.

Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
- Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
- Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
- Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
- Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
- Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
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More About Scots Pine

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
9 to 12 m

Bloom Time
Spring, Summer

Flower Color
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Yellow
Gray

Flower Size
2.5 to 8 cm

Plant Height
35 to 48 m
Name story
Scots fir||Scots pine
It is also known as Scots Pine in reference to Scotland of Great Britain. Before the 18th century, this species was more often known as "Scots fir" or "Scotch fir". "Scotch pine" is another variant of the common name, used mostly in North America.
Usages
Garden Use
The mighty but graceful scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) is a tall evergreen tree that is prized for its attractive needles which offer year-round appeal. This fast-growing tree makes for an appealing specimen tree in landscapes, rock gardens, and coastal gardens. This species is also commonly grown as a Christmas tree. Good companion plants include asters, lawson cypress, and butterfly bush.

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Common Problems
Why are the needles on my scots pine turning yellow?


this could be because the soil is too wet, due to over-watering, excess rainfall, or poor drainage. Accumulated water in a pot can cause oxygen deficiency in the soil, along with root rot and needle yellowing. In the summer, needle scorch can be caused as water evaporates off the needles, especially when the sun is strong and the soil is otherwise dry. If water deficiency continues, the plant will eventually die. Yellowing can also occur when the plant is kept in a room with insufficient sunlight and ventilation for a long period in time, or if it is suddenly moved out from a room and is exposed to blazing sunlight.
How do you deal with the yellowing of pine needles?


Begin by observing your plant, confirming whether it's the old needles or the new ones that are turning yellow. If it's the old needles, and they fall off when they are just lightly touched, then this means that the roots are not too severely damaged and the plant can likely be saved. If both old and new needles are turning yellow and don't fall easily, then the plant will be harder to save. this will depend on whether the bark on the branches is wrinkled. If it is, manually peel off some of the branch bark. If it is not green underneath, then this indicates that the plant may have died, whereas green indicates life. If the bark isn't wrinkled and it's only the old leaves that are softening and turning yellow, then you may be able to save the plant.
If the problem is water deficiency, the soil should be watered immediately. However, do not water it too thoroughly - sucking in too much water can "poison" the plant. After watering, place your plant in a well-ventilated room for 3-5 days, moving it to a partially-shaded outdoor location 5 days later. Spray a 0.5% edible vinegar mist 4-6 times each day. Move it to a sunny location a week later for normal care, and spray needles with clean water for humidification.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
Chalky, Loam
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.

2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2

Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.

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