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Home > Plant Care Guide > Red Frangipani

How to Care for Red Frangipani

Red frangipani (Plumeria rubra) is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Central and South America. It is widely cultivated as an ornamental plant in tropical and subtropical climates. All parts of the plant are toxic when ingested due to their high alkaloid content.

Symbolism

Birth of hope, resurrection, new life, beauty, charm, passion

Water

Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight

Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Red frangipani is tolerant of drought but not waterlogging. Its roots may rot when left in standing water. Pay attention to the amount and frequency of watering for potted plants. When the weather is cool in the spring and fall, and the temperature is mild, watering it once every 2-3 days is enough. In the summer, the temperature is higher and red frangipani grows exuberantly while experiencing quicker water evaporation. Therefore, check soil dryness daily to decide whether the plant needs watering. In the winter, red frangipani sheds its leaves and enters dormancy. In general, watering once every 10-15 days in winter will suffice, and the amount of water should be limited so it won't remain in the soil and cause root rot.

For outdoor-grown red frangipani, watering is generally not necessary due to its deep roots and drought-enduring ability. Just water it a little when it's dry and hot.

Ground Red frangipani watering

When a Red frangipani is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Red frangipani that you have transplanted to a new growing location. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Red frangipani a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.

Potted Red frangipani watering

For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Red frangipani . The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of your Red frangipani ’s growing environment. Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.

The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Red frangipani . Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Red frangipani will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.

Underwater and overwater

When your Red frangipani is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Red frangipani , you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Red frangipani from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Red frangipani in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Red frangipani , simply water this plant more frequently.

Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.

For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Red frangipani can rely on rain most of the time.

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What is the best way to water my Red frangipani?

Your Red frangipani will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Red frangipani. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Red frangipani. However, the Red frangipani usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.

What should I do if I water my Red frangipani too much or too little?

When your Red frangipani is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Red frangipani, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Red frangipani from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Red frangipani in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Red frangipani, simply water this plant more frequently.

How often should I water my Red frangipani?

Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Red frangipani is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.

Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.

How much water does my Red frangipani need?

When it comes time to water your Red frangipani, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Red frangipani by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Red frangipani gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.

If your Red frangipani is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Red frangipani is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Red frangipani a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.

How can I tell if i'm watering my Red frangipani enough?

Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Red frangipani, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Red frangipani will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Red frangipani will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Red frangipani.

How can I water my Red frangipani at different growth stages?

When the Red frangipani is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Red frangipani that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Red frangipani can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Red frangipani is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.

How can I water my Red frangipani through the seasons?

The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Red frangipani. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Red frangipani will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.

What's the difference between watering my Red frangipani indoors vs outdoors?

In some cases, your Red frangipani may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.

Fertilizer

The amount of fertilizing red frangipani requires is high, so it's critical to supply fertilizers during its growth. In the spring and summer, the plant grows fast and needs to be fertilized once every month or so. Using nitrogen fertilizers in the spring promotes the plant's growth, while potassium and phosphorus fertilizers are better for the plant in the summer. In the fall, apply some organic fertilizers to increase its resistances to less favorable environmental conditions. In the winter, red frangipani enters dormancy and does not need fertilizing.

Bright colors and rich textures are what Red frangipani can add to your home décor. With a few well-placed and well-cared-for Red frangipani plants, you can impress your home guests and enhance the beauty of your house. The issue is, if you don't understand how to fertilize your Red frangipani, there is little chance that you can expect this plant to perform its best. Read on to learn answers to some of the most common fertilization questions about Red frangipani.

Fertilization is important to a Red frangipani overall health and well-being. With the proper supply of energy and nutrients, your Red frangipani will develop a healthy array of foliage while also producing a set of sturdy stems and branches. However, it is the flowers of a Red frangipani that are often most valuable to the gardeners who grow them. Fortunately, fertilization also helps this plant produce flowers that are large, vibrant, and long-lasting. The reason for this is that the right kind of fertilizer will make it much easier for your Red frangipani to transfer fuel from its roots through its stems to its flowers. Proper fertilization also keeps this plant's health in good general condition, making it better able to fight off diseases.

The main time of year when you should fertilize a Red frangipani is during the early spring when your plant is exiting its dormant phase and preparing to open its buds. Feeding at this time will give your Red frangipani plenty of available energy to use to support its overall growth and flower development, but this is not the only time that it is a good idea to feed this plant. An additional feeding at the end of the season during the fall months can also benefit this plant, although this second feeding does not need to be as large as the first one. Also, some gardeners choose to fertilize their Red frangipani while they are planting it, but this is not always necessary.

While it is often alright to use a general-purpose fertilizer that has even ratios of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, Red frangipani plants often do best when they receive a specific type of fertilizer. In most instances, the most important nutrients for a Red frangipani are nitrogen and phosphorus, which is why they should appear in higher volumes in the fertilizer you use compared to the potassium content. A fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-8 or something similar should work well. However, it can also be beneficial to apply an organic material such as compost for at least one of your annual feedings. If you choose to use fertilizer, it is most common to use granular fertilizer for a Red frangipani.

Applying fertilizer for your Red frangipani is a quite straightforward task that any gardener can perform, even those with minimal experience. To feed your Red frangipani with granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil. However, before you do so, make sure that you moisten the soil with water. Additionally, you can also amend your Red frangipani plant's soil by adding an organic material like compost or manure. If you want to incorporate one of those amendments into your soil, you should place some of the material on top of the soil. Then use a hand rake to gently work the material into the first few inches of soil without disturbing the roots.

There are several negative outcomes that will occur if your regularly overfertilize your Red frangipani. First, when you give one of these plants too much fertilizer, you can expect to see leaf discoloration and perhaps some wilting. Excessive fertilization can also lead to fertilizer burn, which will dry out the roots, making them ineffective.

However, the threats of overfertilization do not end there for the Red frangipani. If you feed one of these plants too much, it may show a lack of flowers or bloom with flowers that are a bit lackluster. Also, an overfertilized Red frangipani will be weaker overall, show stunted growth, and is more vulnerable to diseases and pest infestations.

As is the case for many plants, you do not need to fertilize your Red frangipani during the winter. In winter, a Red frangipani will be in a dormant phase, which means it does not need to gain much energy from the soil to develop new growth. Fertilizing during winter makes it much more likely that the negative outcomes of overfertilization will occur. The two main feeding times for a Red frangipani are during the early spring and the fall. That means that during most of the spring and summer, this plant will not need fertilizer. It is also wise to hold off on feedings if your plant is experiencing excessively hot or dry conditions for whatever reason.

Why do I need to fertilize my Red frangipani?

However, it is the flowers of a Red frangipani that are often most valuable to the gardeners who grow them. Fortunately, fertilization also helps this plant produce flowers that are large, vibrant, and long-lasting. The reason for this is that the right kind of fertilizer will make it much easier for your Red frangipani to transfer fuel from its roots through its stems to its flowers. Proper fertilization also keeps this plant's health in good general condition, making it better able to fight off diseases.

When is the best time to fertilize my Red frangipani?

An additional feeding at the end of the season during the fall months can also benefit this plant, although this second feeding does not need to be as large as the first one. Also, some gardeners choose to fertilize their Red frangipani while they are planting it, but this is not always necessary.

When should I avoid fertilizing my Red frangipani?

The two main feeding times for a Red frangipani are during the early spring and the fall. That means that during most of the spring and summer, this plant will not need fertilizer. It is also wise to hold off on feedings if your plant is experiencing excessively hot or dry conditions for whatever reason.

What type of fertilizer does my Red frangipani need?

A fertilizer that has an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-8 or something similar should work well. However, it can also be beneficial to apply an organic material such as compost for at least one of your annual feedings. If you choose to use fertilizer, it is most common to use granular fertilizer for a Red frangipani.

How do I fertilize my Red frangipani?

Additionally, you can also amend your Red frangipani plant's soil by adding an organic material like compost or manure. If you want to incorporate one of those amendments into your soil, you should place some of the material on top of the soil. Then use a hand rake to gently work the material into the first few inches of soil without disturbing the roots.

What happens if I fertilize my Red frangipani too much?

Sunlight

Red frangipani likes ample sunlight and grows best in open fields. If light conditions are poor, the plant may spindle and its leaves may thin. this can lower its resistance to less favorable environmental conditions (such as drought, coldness, etc.). Generally speaking, at least 8 hours of light exposure per day are needed for red frangipani to grow lushly and bloom.

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How many hours of sunlight does Red frangipani need to grow?

Tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun need a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. These plants are adapted to growing in areas with intense, direct sunlight and require this type of light to thrive. In their natural habitats, they are often found growing in open fields or along the edges of forests, where they receive ample sunlight throughout the day.

What will happen if Red frangipani doesn’t get enough sunlight?

If tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun do not receive enough sunlight, they may become leggy and weak. They may also develop yellow or pale leaves, and may stop producing flowers. Over time, these plants may die if they are not given the amount of direct sunlight they need.

What will happen if Red frangipani gets too much sunlight?

While tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun need a lot of direct sunlight, they can be damaged by too much sun. If these plants are exposed to intense sunlight for prolonged periods, they may develop sunburned leaves or brown spots. They may also become dehydrated if the soil dries out too quickly in full sun.

How can you protect Red frangipani from excessive sunlight?

To protect tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun from excessive sunlight, it is important to choose a location that gets plenty of direct sunlight but also has some protection from the hottest part of the day. If you are growing these plants in containers, you can move them to a more shaded location during the hottest part of the day to protect them from the sun's rays. You can also provide some shade by using a shade cloth or umbrella during the hottest part of the day.

Cautions and tips

It is important to gradually acclimate tropical ornamental plants that prefer full sun gradually to direct sunlight, especially if they have been grown indoors or in a shaded area. Start by placing the plant in direct sunlight for an hour or two each day, gradually increasing the amount of time it spends in direct sunlight over a period of several days or weeks. Be sure to keep an eye on the plant's soil moisture levels when it is exposed to full sun. These plants may require more frequent watering in full sun than they would in a more shaded location. Use a moisture meter or check the soil with your finger to determine when the plant needs to be watered.

Pruning

Red frangipani grows fast. When its thickest branch reaches 20 to 30 cm tall, pinch its young terminal buds to control how tall it grows and promote the growth of new branches nearby. this will encourage a more plump and balanced tree shape. After the blossoms fade, deadhead the withered flowers promptly to conserve nutrients and avoid letting them rot on the branches.

To repot potted red frangipani, use scissors to cut off rotten, old, too long, or too dense roots. Keep the fibrous roots. If there are rotten roots, be sure to sterilize and disinfect them after pruning. Spray fungicides on the roots once and replace the soil with a new, sterilized batch.

Do I need to prune my Red frangipani?

Red frangipani, like most other evergreen trees, absolutely need to be pruned in order for them to grow as happy, healthy trees. Of course, there are lots of reasons that pruning is important, so we’ll talk about those in greater detail. Pruning opens up the inner canopy to airflow and sunlight. Without keeping these pathways open, the inner canopy will be starved of sunlight and air. Therefore, pruning your Red frangipani is not only advantageous, but it also weakens the impact of pests and infections by separating branches from one another. These benefits are far too easy to reap with Red frangipani to neglect them. Aside from keeping your Red frangipani happier and healthier, pruning just makes things look nice and tidy. Who doesn’t love a well-kept tree, anyway?

When is the best time to prune my Red frangipani?

Red frangipani can be pruned at different times depending on whether they’re grown indoors or outdoors. For outdoor trees, pruning and trimming should be done when the tree is not actively growing; this generally falls under the colder months of winter, but can vary depending on where you live. However, if you’re growing your Red frangipani indoors, there are lots of different times of the year when it’s okay to trim lightly. For example, if you’re planning on trimming a bit off the top of just one or two smaller branches, then you can trim nearly anytime. For heavier pruning on indoor Red frangipani, it’s best to wait until those same colder months when outdoor Red frangipani wouldn’t normally be actively growing. Red frangipani should be pruned as needed. Typically, these trees should be pruned to remove any damaged, yellowing, dying, or dead foliage. It is also necessary to prune this plant to remove any shoots that are congested or are crossing.

What should I do after pruning my Red frangipani?

In order to keep your Red frangipani growing strong, remove any branches or debris that landed at the base of the tree. Keeping the area clear can prevent weeds and underbrush from crowding out the tree, especially if it’s young. Another great tip is to use raw, organic honey to treat large open wounds on the Red frangipani where branches were trimmed. The use of honey prevents any pathogens or potential pests from making their way in. It’s also a good idea to water a little extra after pruning for a week or two. Providing them with a little extra water helps them build natural calluses over the exposed core faster, so they can get back to growing into large, Red frangipani!

How can I prune my Red frangipani: tips and techniques?

While most of the Red frangipani won’t need to be pruned until they develop some substantial height, sometimes their branches get a little carried away in the wrong direction. This is why this part of the Red frangipani needs to be pruned in good time. Tools In order to prune your Red frangipani properly, you’ll need the proper pruning tools. While smaller plant shears and garden scissors may not cut it (pun intended), handheld clippers, pruners and loppers will certainly help out. For very tall branches that are out of safe reach, use a pole saw with the necessary safety equipment. It’s also a good idea to wear gloves while pruning to avoid any splinters or cuts in general. How to Prune To prune your Red frangipani, first cut away any dead, dying or diseased branches. Look for pests, irregular growth patterns, and brittle branches or leaves. Snip these off at the branch collar, where the branch intersection is, without scoring the main branch. Next, be on the lookout for extra long branches or leaves that may not be able to support a lot of weight. These branches or leaves will be too heavy and grow downwards, so this can be trimmed back if necessary. Try to find all of the branches that grow either directly up (that are not the primary trunk) and those that grow directly downward. These branches will become an issue because they can effectively block out light and air from inner branches. Trim these back to the branches they stem from as well. If there’s not much space within the canopy for light to reach the center of the tree, you can trim away some excess foliage to make windows for light to shine in.

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Red frangipani is widely planted in tropical and subtropical Asia. It likes high-temperature, high-humidity environments, and is not very hardy. The ideal temperature range for its growth is 20 to 28 ℃. In winter, as long as the temperature is kept above 5 ℃, red frangipani won't freeze to death. After shedding its leaves in the fall, it will rebud in the spring and grow leaves again.

Red frangipani endures drought well. It likes moist soil but is not tolerant of standing water. Long-term drought is bad for the plant's growth, while waterlogging causes its roots to rot and leads to the plant's death in severe cases.

What is the optimal temperature for Red frangipani?

For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.

As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.

Does Red frangipani require different temperatures for different growing phases?

While Red frangipani doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.

Does Red frangipani need different temperatures for different seasons?

Red frangipani does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.

Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.

What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Red frangipani healthy?

Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months

If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.

Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat

You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.

Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs

Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.

What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Red frangipani?

The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Red frangipani is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.

If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.

Soil

Red frangipani doesn't have strict soil requirements. Generally, it grows best in rich, nutritious, loose soil that is free of standing water. It likes slightly acidic soil and has an ideal pH range of 6.0-6.7. For potting, the soil can be made by mixing garden soil, humus, and river sand at a 4:4:2 ratio, with a little organic fertilizer added to provide a long-term supply of nutrition. For garden-grown red frangipani, well-drained soil is best for helping the roots grow. If the soil doesn't contain enough nutrients, you can improve it by mixing in leaf mold or organic manure.

Propagation

Planting

Red frangipani fruits very little, so cutting is its main propagation method. Usually, cutting is performed every year from late spring through early summer when the temperature and humidity are ideal. When growing exuberantly, red frangipani easily grows roots after cutting and survives transplanting.

First, choose a few healthy and sturdy branches. Cut and keep about 15 cm of their length and remove the leaves on the lower ends. Retain only 1-2 leaves on the upper ends to reduce water evaporation and help the roots grow. Make an inclined cut at the bottom of these branches and immerse them in a basin filled with rooting powder solution for 5-10 minutes.

Then, insert the branches into the soil and pack the soil tightly by pressing with your hands.

Lastly, water the cuttings thoroughly and place them somewhere cool and well-ventilated.

It generally takes about 30-40 days for them to grow roots. After roots grow, put them in a sunlight-ample spot and mist the leaves with water often to moisturize them. Before long, the branches will grow into new plants.

Propagating a tree by yourself is difficult, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. If you are interested in this, you can read on.

Tree propagation can be done by cuttings, which is easy to do. Red frangipani can be propagated during spring. It can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The ending of the dormant season is the most likely to be successful. When propagating Red frangipani, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.

Sharp garden pruners
Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix

Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Red frangipani into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Red frangipani around the later of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Red frangipani to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Red frangipani is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Air layering also works to propagate trees successfully, but the procedure is relatively complicated. Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice. Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!

A sharp, sanitized knife
Peat moss for wrapping
Plastic wrap for wrapping
Rubber bands or twist ties
(optional) aluminum foil
(optional) plant growth hormones

Steps: Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node. Step 2:Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping. Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed. Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.

Red frangipani can be grown in a garden or potted indoors. When potting, keep the root collar (the plant's juncture of its aerial parts and subterraneous parts) slightly above the soil surface to help the roots breathe. After planting, place the potted plant somewhere cool and shaded to prevent water from evaporating too quickly. After 15 days, red frangipani's roots are able to absorb water and nutrition from the soil, so it's time to move it to a sunlight-ample place.

For garden growing, choose a sunlight-ample, well-drained site for planting. Before planting, put some organic compost manure into the pit to help promote root growth. Press the soil firmly after planting, water adequately, and you're all set.

Potting Suggestions

Repot once a year in spring.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.

A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.

Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.

Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.

Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.

Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.

Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.

Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.

New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.

Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.

To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.

Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.

During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.

Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Red frangipani based on 10 million real cases

Brown spot

This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Nutrient deficiencies

A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Wilting after blooming

Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.

Underwatering

Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Leaf deformity

Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

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More About Red Frangipani

Plant Type

Tree, Shrub

Lifespan

Perennial

Spread

4.5 to 8 m

Bloom Time

Spring, Summer, Fall

Flower Color

Pink

Yellow

Red

White

Leaf Color

Green

Flower Size

5 to 8 cm

Plant Height

2 to 8 m

Name story

Red frangipani

The common name “frangipani” comes from an Italian noble family, a sixteenth-century marquess who invented a plumeria-scented perfume. The genus name honors Charles Plumier, who was a French monk of the Franciscan order, and a botanist. Its specific epithet is derived from the latin word, ruber meaning "red", so it is called red frangipani.

Usages

Garden Use

Red frangipani is a deciduous shrub or small tree commonly found in tropical gardens. It is prized for its fragrant, spiral-shaped flowers. Its free-standing habit makes it suitable for mid-shrub borders and beds. Red frangipani is appropriate for roof-top or Mediterranean gardens. Suggested companion plants include Bromeliad, which provides ground cover, or Canna Lily for color contrast.

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Common Problems

Why do the leaves of my red frangipani wither/droop?

Red frangipani's leaves usually wither/droop because of excessive water, so check the soil the tree is planted in for standing water. It's also possible that your red frangipani is affected by pests or diseases. Check the leaves for orange spots (rust disease), black spots (angular leaf spot), or white spots (powdery mildew). If there are spots present, remove the infected leaves promptly and spray appropriate chemicals for treatment.

Why doesn't my red frangipani bloom?

Lack of blooming may be caused by the following reasons:

Overly low temperature: The ideal temperature for red frangipani's growth is 20 to 28 ℃. If the temperature drops below 20 ℃, red frangipani may stop growing and fail to bloom.
Insufficient sunlight: red frangipani likes environments with ample light. If it receives insufficient sunlight in its active growing season (spring and summer), the plant won't bloom.
Improper watering: If insufficiently watered, the water within red frangipani will only be used to facilitate its growth and won't contribute to blooming. If overwatered, however, it can become waterlogged and make red frangipani's roots rot, which also affects the plant's growth and results in its failure to bloom.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant

Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Flowers

Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.

Branches

The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems

No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves

Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant

1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.

2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.

Branches

1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.

2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.

3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.

Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.

Flowers

1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.

2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.

3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.

4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.

Leaves

1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.

2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.

3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.

4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.

5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check

Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check

Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check

Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check

Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil

Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil

Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.

Ideal Temperature

10 to 35 ℃

Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.

Ventilation

Well Ventilated

Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.

Suitable Light

Full sun, Partial sun

Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.

Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.

Adapting Your New Flower Plant

Step 1

Repotting

Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.

Step 2

Pruning

Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Step 3

Watering

Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.

Step 4

Fertilizing

Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.

Red Frangipani

Repotting

Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning

Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering

Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing

Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight

Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.

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Red Frangipani

Repotting

Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.

Pruning

Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Watering

Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing

Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Sunlight

Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.

Plants with Same Care Needs

Black cherry

Black cherry (Prunus serotina) is a medium-sized, deciduous forest tree native to the Americas, but also naturalized in parts of Europe. It features inflorescence with small white blooms that become clusters of dark cherries, edible when pitted. Mature trees have gray-to-black, distinctly crackled bark. The glossy leaves are poisonous to livestock. It is a highly reproductive pioneer species with invasive potential.

Bloom Time

Spring

Common dandelion

*Taraxacum officinale*, widely known as common dandelion, is a herbaceous perennial that can be found in temperate regions all over the world, in habitats with moist soils. The most popular feature of this plant is its fruits, furry spheres that are easily carried by the wind. Although it is generally considered a weed, common dandelion is actually edible and very nutritious.

Bloom Time

Spring

Common hackberry

Common hackberry (Celtis occidentalis) is a medium-sized deciduous tree, native to North America. It looks similar to elms and some other hackberry trees at first glance, but you can distinguish it by looking at the bark - if it is verrucous and has corky texture, then it is probably common hackberry.

Bloom Time

Spring

Common buckthorn

Rhamnus cathartica, colloquially known as common buckthorn, is a deciduous shrub or small tree native to Europe. This plant is hazardous to humans and most animals; all parts of it are mildly poisonous. The fast-growing common buckthorn is considered an invasive species in certain parts of North America.

Bloom Time

Spring

Arborvitae

Northern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis) is a small- to medium-sized evergreen conifer native to North America, and can be found in a variety of environments, including forested wetlands and along cliffs. Essential oils are produced using northern white cedar, and it also finds use as an ornamental plant. Due to its increasing popularity in landscaping, more compact plants have been used to develop smaller strains.

Bloom Time

Spring

Sugarberry

Celtis laevigata, commonly known as sugarberry, is a deciduous medium-sized tree native to North America. It is often found near water - on floodplains, along rivers and streams. There are many species of birds, small mammals, and insects that use sugarberry's fruits and leaves as a source of food, which makes it a very important part of the ecosystem.

Bloom Time

Spring

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How to Care for Red Frangipani

Symbolism

Birth of hope, resurrection, new life, beauty, charm, passion

Water

Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight

Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

For outdoor-grown red frangipani, watering is generally not necessary due to its deep roots and drought-enduring ability. Just water it a little when it's dry and hot.

Ground Red frangipani watering

Potted Red frangipani watering

Underwater and overwater

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What is the best way to water my Red frangipani?

What should I do if I water my Red frangipani too much or too little?

How often should I water my Red frangipani?

How much water does my Red frangipani need?

How can I tell if i'm watering my Red frangipani enough?

How can I water my Red frangipani at different growth stages?

How can I water my Red frangipani through the seasons?

What's the difference between watering my Red frangipani indoors vs outdoors?

Fertilizer

Why do I need to fertilize my Red frangipani?

When is the best time to fertilize my Red frangipani?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Red frangipani?

What type of fertilizer does my Red frangipani need?

How do I fertilize my Red frangipani?

What happens if I fertilize my Red frangipani too much?

Sunlight

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.

How many hours of sunlight does Red frangipani need to grow?

What will happen if Red frangipani doesn’t get enough sunlight?

What will happen if Red frangipani gets too much sunlight?

How can you protect Red frangipani from excessive sunlight?

Cautions and tips

Pruning

Do I need to prune my Red frangipani?

When is the best time to prune my Red frangipani?

What should I do after pruning my Red frangipani?

How can I prune my Red frangipani: tips and techniques?

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

What is the optimal temperature for Red frangipani?

Does Red frangipani require different temperatures for different growing phases?

Does Red frangipani need different temperatures for different seasons?

What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Red frangipani healthy?

What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Red frangipani?

Soil

Propagation

Planting

Then, insert the branches into the soil and pack the soil tightly by pressing with your hands.

Lastly, water the cuttings thoroughly and place them somewhere cool and well-ventilated.

Propagating a tree by yourself is difficult, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. If you are interested in this, you can read on.

Sharp garden pruners
Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix

A sharp, sanitized knife
Peat moss for wrapping
Plastic wrap for wrapping
Rubber bands or twist ties
(optional) aluminum foil
(optional) plant growth hormones

Potting Suggestions

Repot once a year in spring.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter

Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.

Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.

A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.

Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.

Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.

To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.

Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.

Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.

Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.

Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.

Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.

New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.

While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.

Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.

Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.

To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.

Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.

Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.

Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.

During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Red frangipani based on 10 million real cases

Brown spot

This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Learn More

Nutrient deficiencies

A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Learn More

Wilting after blooming

Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.

Learn More

Underwatering

Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Learn More

Leaf deformity

Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.

Learn More

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.

More About Red Frangipani

Plant Type

Tree, Shrub

Lifespan

Perennial

Spread

4.5 to 8 m

Bloom Time

Spring, Summer, Fall

Flower Color

Pink

Yellow

Red

White

Leaf Color

Green

Flower Size

5 to 8 cm

Plant Height

2 to 8 m

Name story

Red frangipani

Usages

Garden Use

View More Info

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.

Common Problems

Why do the leaves of my red frangipani wither/droop?

Why doesn't my red frangipani bloom?

Lack of blooming may be caused by the following reasons:

Overly low temperature: The ideal temperature for red frangipani's growth is 20 to 28 ℃. If the temperature drops below 20 ℃, red frangipani may stop growing and fail to bloom.
Insufficient sunlight: red frangipani likes environments with ample light. If it receives insufficient sunlight in its active growing season (spring and summer), the plant won't bloom.
Improper watering: If insufficiently watered, the water within red frangipani will only be used to facilitate its growth and won't contribute to blooming. If overwatered, however, it can become waterlogged and make red frangipani's roots rot, which also affects the plant's growth and results in its failure to bloom.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

Picking a Healthy Flower Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant

Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Flowers

Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.

Branches

The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Stems

No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Leaves

Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant

Branches

Stems

Flowers

Leaves

1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.

2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.

1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.

2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.

3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.

1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.

2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.

3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.

4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.

1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.

2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.

3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.

4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.

5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.

Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check

Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check

Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Ventilation Check

Ensure good ventilation.

Temperature Check

Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil

Ideal Temperature

Ventilation

Suitable Light

Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil

Soil

Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.

10 to 35 ℃

Ideal Temperature

Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.

Well Ventilated

Ventilation

Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.

Full sun, Partial sun

Suitable Light

Adapting Your New Flower Plant

Step 1

Repotting

Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.

Step 2

Pruning

Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.

Step 3

Watering

Step 4

Fertilizing

Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.

Plants with Same Care Needs

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