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How to Care for Ming Aralia
The ming aralia is a slow-growing plant that can reach up to 1 to 2 m in height. The leaves are dark green with a glossy texture. It is commonly grown as a houseplant and is appealing for its interwoven leaves, as well as unique gnarls on the trunk where older branches have died off.
Symbolism
Peace, harmony, and balance
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Partial sun
Advanced Care Guide
Transplanting
Potting Suggestions
The ideal time to transplant ming aralia is during early to mid-spring or mid-fall to early winter, as these seasons promote successful root establishment. Choose a well-draining location with partial shade. When transplanting, gently loosen the root ball to encourage new root growth.
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, Overwinter, etc.
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Lighting
Partial sun
Ming aralia enjoys a moderate amount of sun. While it can tolerate a range of sun exposure, from a fully shaded area to an area receiving full sunlight, it thrives best when exposed to a combination of sun and shade. Excessive or insufficient light can hinder its healthy growth. Originally, this plant adapted to varying light conditions in its natural habitat.
Temperature
5 43 ℃
The ming aralia prefers temperatures between 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃) in its native growth environment. It adapts well to room temperature, but avoid exposing it to drafts and extreme temperatures. In summer, it enjoys partial shade and may require more frequent watering. In winter, the temperature should not drop below 50 ℉ (10 ℃) to prevent leaf loss.
Transplant
90-120 cm
The ideal time to transplant ming aralia is during early to mid-spring or mid-fall to early winter, as these seasons promote successful root establishment. Choose a well-draining location with partial shade. When transplanting, gently loosen the root ball to encourage new root growth.
Overwinter
20 ℃
Ming aralia hails from balmy tropical climates with no winter. Naturally blessed with a resilience against cold, it handles lower temperatures reasonably well. For winter care, gardeners need to ease the plant into a semi-dormant state. Don't overwater; just maintain humidity levels. If the temperatures dip dramatically, consider moving it to a warmer spot. Remember, ming aralia enjoys a bright spot away from drafty windows and doors.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.
1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.
To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.
1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.
While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.
1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.
Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.
1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Ming aralia based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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More About Ming Aralia
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
61 to 91 cm
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Green
Cream
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
15 cm
Plant Height
1 to 2 m
Name story
Ming aralia||Teatree
The aralia group of exotic plants includes a popular ornamental tree called ming aralia. The name 'Ming' vaguely refers to the Asian origin of the species, native to Southeast Asia, and several tropical islands of the Pacific ocean.
Usages
Garden Use
Ming aralia is a popular evergreen shrub or small tree prized for its glossy green leaves. It is commonly used as an ornamental garden plant and is essential in tropical and exotic gardens. Plant it with holly fern, pinwheel jasmine, croton, pentas, and alocasia odora for texture and contrasting color.
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Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for tropical plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Tropical Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant ![trouble-image]()
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1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. Branches ![trouble-image]()
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1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. Stems ![trouble-image]()
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves ![trouble-image]()
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1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
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3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. ![trouble-image]()
![more]()
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full sun
Insufficient light: Indoor plants can handle reduced light but not full shade. Periodically moving the plant to a sunnier spot can help compensate for nutrient depletion in dim conditions.
Transplant recovery: Shade, place in bright diffused light. Gradually increase light after 3 days without wilting. If transplanted/repotted or lost leaves, shade for a week. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
Ideal Temperature
10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low or too high: Indoors usually meets plant needs. Don't place outside below 50℉ (10℃) or above 86℉ (30℃).
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
2
Adapting Your New Tropical Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Transplanting is possible but not necessary. Clean the roots by removing any rotten or blackened roots. Be careful when removing the plant from its pot to keep the root system intact and avoid spreading the soil. If the roots are too tangled, gently spread them out and trim as needed. For planting, mix a small amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer into the bottom of the soil. Use loose and airy floral soil for planting and press the soil down slightly after planting. Water the soil promptly and thoroughly after planting.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 2
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 3
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
show more ![show-more]()
Step 4
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
show more ![show-more]()
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Ming Aralia
Repotting
Clean roots, avoid soil spreading, use organic fertilizer, plant in loose soil, water thoroughly.
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
Download Ming Aralia
Repotting
Clean roots, avoid soil spreading, use organic fertilizer, plant in loose soil, water thoroughly.
Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.
Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
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About
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
New Plant Care
How to Care for Ming Aralia
The ming aralia is a slow-growing plant that can reach up to 1 to 2 m in height. The leaves are dark green with a glossy texture. It is commonly grown as a houseplant and is appealing for its interwoven leaves, as well as unique gnarls on the trunk where older branches have died off.
Symbolism
Peace, harmony, and balance
Every 1-2 weeks
Water ![Water detail]()
Partial sun
Sunlight ![Sunlight detail]()
Advanced Care Guide
Transplanting
Potting Suggestions
The ideal time to transplant ming aralia is during early to mid-spring or mid-fall to early winter, as these seasons promote successful root establishment. Choose a well-draining location with partial shade. When transplanting, gently loosen the root ball to encourage new root growth.
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Tropical plants like your plant require some care in the spring.
1
Early spring is the ideal time to remove any overgrowth and dead vines or branches.
2
A monthly application of diluted all-purpose liquid fertilizer will encourage healthy growth and blooming. Make sure to apply the fertilizer before buds start appearing.
3
Water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.
4
Move any container plants to a sunny location to strengthen growth.
5
Carefully prune older, new growth for propagation. Coating the cutting in rooting hormone will help establish the new plant.
To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.
1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.
While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.
1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.
Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.
1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Ming aralia based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More ![more]()
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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More About Ming Aralia
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
61 to 91 cm
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Green
Cream
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
15 cm
Plant Height
1 to 2 m
Name story
Ming aralia||Teatree
The aralia group of exotic plants includes a popular ornamental tree called ming aralia. The name 'Ming' vaguely refers to the Asian origin of the species, native to Southeast Asia, and several tropical islands of the Pacific ocean.
Usages
Garden Use
Ming aralia is a popular evergreen shrub or small tree prized for its glossy green leaves. It is commonly used as an ornamental garden plant and is essential in tropical and exotic gardens. Plant it with holly fern, pinwheel jasmine, croton, pentas, and alocasia odora for texture and contrasting color.
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Caring for a New Plant
The following pictures and instructions for tropical plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
1
Picking a Healthy Tropical Plant
Check Its Health
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches. 
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration. 
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch. 
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots. 
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet. 
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases. 
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases. 
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide. 
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases. Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Check Its Growing Conditions
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.
Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Suitable Light
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Partial sun, Full sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Indoor plants can handle reduced light but not full shade. Periodically moving the plant to a sunnier spot can help compensate for nutrient depletion in dim conditions.
Transplant recovery: Shade, place in bright diffused light. Gradually increase light after 3 days without wilting. If transplanted/repotted or lost leaves, shade for a week. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.
10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low or too high: Indoors usually meets plant needs. Don't place outside below 50℉ (10℃) or above 86℉ (30℃).
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place plants in a well-ventilated location, such as a window.
2
Adapting Your New Tropical Plant
Step 1
Repotting
Transplanting is possible but not necessary. Clean the roots by removing any rotten or blackened roots. Be careful when removing the plant from its pot to keep the root system intact and avoid spreading the soil. If the roots are too tangled, gently spread them out and trim as needed. For planting, mix a small amount of well-rotted organic fertilizer into the bottom of the soil. Use loose and airy floral soil for planting and press the soil down slightly after planting. Water the soil promptly and thoroughly after planting.
Step 2
Pruning
Not usually needed. Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.
Step 3
Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4
Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Water
How Often Should I Water Ming Aralia?
Every 1-2 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Ming aralia is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Ming aralia is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Ming aralia enjoys a moderate amount of sun. While it can tolerate a range of sun exposure, from a fully shaded area to an area receiving full sunlight, it thrives best when exposed to a combination of sun and shade. Excessive or insufficient light can hinder its healthy growth. Originally, this plant adapted to varying light conditions in its natural habitat.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Ming aralia is a popular indoor plant that prefers partial sunlight but can handle full sunlight in cooler weather. However, when placed in corners of rooms for extended periods, it may develop symptoms of light deficiency due to insufficient light exposure.
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Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Ming aralia enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your ming aralia may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Ming aralia thrives with partial sun exposure and can tolerate full sun in cooler weather. However, they are more susceptible to sunburn, as they cannot withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
The ming aralia prefers temperatures between 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃) in its native growth environment. It adapts well to room temperature, but avoid exposing it to drafts and extreme temperatures. In summer, it enjoys partial shade and may require more frequent watering. In winter, the temperature should not drop below 50 ℉ (10 ℃) to prevent leaf loss.
Regional wintering strategies
Ming aralia is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Ming aralia indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Ming aralia prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Ming aralia should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Ming Aralia?
The ideal time to transplant ming aralia is during early to mid-spring or mid-fall to early winter, as these seasons promote successful root establishment. Choose a well-draining location with partial shade. When transplanting, gently loosen the root ball to encourage new root growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Ming Aralia?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Ming Aralia?
The best time to transplant your ming aralia is from the onset of spring until mid-spring, or from mid-fall until early winter. This timing is ideal because it allows for the plant to establish itself before the extremes of summer heat or winter cold. Transplanting during these periods maximizes your ming aralia's chance of survival and promotes robust growth. Keep this in mind when planning your gardening activities - happy transplanting!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Ming Aralia Plants?
For ming aralia, it's best to give them some room to grow. We recommend spacing them about 35-47 inches (90-120 cm) apart. This will allow them to thrive without competing for nutrients or space.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Ming Aralia Transplanting?
When preparing the soil for ming aralia, aim for a well-draining, fertile soil mix. Incorporating organic matter, such as aged compost or well-rotted manure, will enrich the soil. Start with a base fertilizer like 10-10-10, following the package instructions.
Where Should You Relocate Your Ming Aralia?
Ming aralia prefers a bright location with indirect sunlight. Find a spot where it can get at least 4-6 hours of dappled sunlight each day. Avoid exposing it to harsh, direct sunlight for long periods, as it may damage the foliage.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Ming Aralia?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and ming aralia.
Trowel
Useful for digging smaller holes and for gentle removal of the plant from its pot or seedling tray if applicable.
Spade or Shovel
Essential for digging the new planting hole in the ground for ming aralia.
Garden Pruners
Necessary for trimming off any damaged roots or branches.
Watering can or Hose
Required to thoroughly water ming aralia before and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow
Helpful to transport the ming aralia from its original location to the new site, and for bringing the soil or compost to the transplanting site, if necessary.
How Do You Remove Ming Aralia from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new site by digging a hole twice as wide and as deep as the ming aralia's root ball. The hole should be wide enough to allow the roots to spread comfortably. When you place the rootball in the hole, the top of the rootball should be at the same level as the surrounding soil.
Step2 Placing the Plant
Gently place ming aralia in the hole and starting filling in the hole with the soil, ensuring that the ming aralia stays straight.
Step3 Settling In
Firmly pat down the soil around the ming aralia's base. Make sure the plant is firmly in the ground, but don't compact the soil too hard.
Step4 Watering
Water the plant generously immediately after planting. Be careful not to waterlog the ming aralia, as it likes well-drained soil.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Ming Aralia
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new site by digging a hole twice as wide and as deep as the ming aralia's root ball. The hole should be wide enough to allow the roots to spread comfortably. When you place the rootball in the hole, the top of the rootball should be at the same level as the surrounding soil.
Step2 Placing the Plant
Gently place ming aralia in the hole and starting filling in the hole with the soil, ensuring that the ming aralia stays straight.
Step3 Settling In
Firmly pat down the soil around the ming aralia's base. Make sure the plant is firmly in the ground, but don't compact the soil too hard.
Step4 Watering
Water the plant generously immediately after planting. Be careful not to waterlog the ming aralia, as it likes well-drained soil.
How Do You Care For Ming Aralia After Transplanting?
Watering
Water the ming aralia deeply, soaking the soil around the roots without waterlogging it. This should be done regularly, particularly in dry conditions while the plant is getting established.
Pruning
Trim off any damaged or dead branches that you might have missed during transplanting after a week has passed.
Protection
Keep an eye out for pests or disease symptoms. If detected, take necessary actions promptly.
Monitoring Growth
Over next few weeks, observe the ming aralia for signs of stress such as yellowing leaves or a lack of new growth, and take necessary measures if problems occur.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Ming Aralia Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant the ming aralia plant?
Optimum time for transplanting ming aralia is early to mid-spring or mid-fall to early winter. Transplanting during these periods ensures better root establishment.
What is the right distance to keep between two ming aralia plants?
For healthy growth, maintain a spacing of 35-47 inches (90-120 cm) between each ming aralia plant. This allows adequate sunlight and circulation.
How deep should I dig the hole for ming aralia transplanting?
Dig the hole twice as big as the root ball of the ming aralia plant. This will provide it plenty of room to expand and grow.
What to do if the ming aralia plant wilts after transplanting?
Don't panic! Wilting post-transplant is common. Ensure it's watered adequately but avoid overwatering. Conditions should improve within a week or two.
How often should I water the ming aralia plant after transplanting?
Initially, water the ming aralia daily. Once it's established, reduce to twice a week, depending on the weather. Remember to not overwater it!
Is it necessary to prune the ming aralia while transplanting?
Pruning isn't mandatory, but it's beneficial. Removing a third of the plant can reduce stress and increase its chances of successful relocation.
How to prevent shock in ming aralia during transplanting?
To prevent shock, water the ming aralia generously before and after transplanting. Also, consider using a root booster to enhance plant performance.
Is it okay to transplant ming aralia in full sun?
Ming aralia prefers well-lit, shaded spots over full sun. Prolonged direct soaking might lead to leaf burn, so choose your location wisely.
Do I need to fertilize ming aralia right after transplanting?
Allow the ming aralia to establish itself for a few weeks before fertilizing. Start with a mild, balanced fertilizer and adjust based on plant response.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted ming aralia turning yellow?
Yellow leaves could be a sign of overwatering or insufficient light. Check your watering schedule and ensure your ming aralia gets enough indirect sunlight.
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