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How to Care for Apricot

Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) is a fruit-bearing plant species native to Asia. Although the genus name, "Prunus," means plum, the fruits of this tree are actually apricots. The seeds are occasionally used as substitutes for almonds because they share a similar shape and nutty taste. The apricot has been cultivated by humans for centuries, and was even discovered in the remains of ancient Armenian settlements.
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Symbolism

Love
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Toxic to Human & Pets
Apricot
Apricot
Apricot
Apricot
Apricot
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Apricot?

The apricot doesn't like its roots to be dry, so it will need to be regularly weekly during the growing season. Water in the early morning, aiming your hose at the tree's roots and thoroughly soaking the soil. A container-grown tree will need to be watered daily, and maybe even twice a day during extremely hot and dry spells.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Apricot?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Apricot prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Apricot too much/too little?
An overwatered Apricot can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Apricot recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Apricot indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Apricot outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Apricot?
The Apricot likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Apricot generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Apricot?
The Apricot generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Apricot is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Apricot is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Apricot continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Apricot a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Apricot according to different seasons or climates?
The Apricot needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Apricot to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Apricot will need less water during the winter. Since the Apricot will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Apricot growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Apricot can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Apricot and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Apricot’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Apricot’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Apricot in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Apricot mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Apricot in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Apricot begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Apricot important?
Watering the Apricot helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Apricot thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Apricot?

The apricot should be fertilized in the spring once new growth has started to appear. While your tree is young, use a complete granular fertilizer with an equal NPK ratio. Once your tree is old enough to start producing fruit, switch to a 10-15-10 fertilizer - the extra phosphorus will help to boost fruit production. If you are growing your apricot in a container, apply a 10-15-10 liquid fertilizer twice a month.

Fertilizer

Apricot is generally grown in order to produce edible fruit, and requires ample nutrients to be able to yield the most fruit with the best flavor. Without enough nutrients, the leaves and flowers may be underdeveloped, and the Apricot fails to thrive overall. This is why many gardeners prefer to fertilize.
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Apricot some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit.
Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Apricot energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.You can continue to feed Apricot during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal. Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Apricot you are growing.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Apricot may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Apricot will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
Avoid fertilizing Apricot at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Apricot should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Apricot can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Apricot?
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Apricot some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit. Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Apricot?
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Apricot energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.
You can continue to feed Apricot during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Apricot?
Avoid fertilizing Apricot at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.
Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Apricot should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Apricot can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Apricot need?
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal.
Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Apricot?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Apricot you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Apricot, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial, especially for fruit trees. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Note that a Apricot should not be fertilized for the first few years.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Apricot too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Apricot may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Apricot will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Apricot to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Apricot?

The apricot loves full sun and needs around 8 hours of sunlight a day in order to thrive. Although the tree will grow in partial shade too, this will negatively affect fruit production.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much/long should Apricot get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Apricot receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Apricot need?
Apricot does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Apricot? How to protect Apricot from the sun and heat damage?
Apricot planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Apricot during extreme weather events.
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Does Apricot need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Apricot from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Apricot, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Apricot to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Apricot gets inadequate sunlight?
When Apricot receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Apricot receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Apricot need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Apricot and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Apricot fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Apricot?
Recently transplanted Apricot will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Apricot drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Apricot that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Apricot?

Although most stone fruit trees are only pruned in the summer, due to how vulnerable they are to different diseases, the apricot is much more resilient and can be pruned in both summer and winter. The exception is with fan-trained trees - their sap flow is slower, so these are best pruned in the summer. However, you can still remove dead and diseased branches in the winter.
Pruning is quite simple and minimal for the apricot. Begin by removing any dying, dead, or diseased branches, as well as any new branches that are growing inwards - you want your tree to be open in the middle to allow sun and air to reach all parts. Cut back leading branches by up to a third - this stimulates outwards, rather than upwards, growth. Remove any branches that are crossing over or rubbing against each other, as well as any suckers and watersprouts.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Apricot?
Unkempt, wild Apricot have a hard time bearing fruit, and for good reason. When Apricot isn’t pruned, they have issues ranging from sunlight, weight distribution, and even fungi and other pests. Pruning does a lot to help remedy these issues, as well as to provide for the aesthetic appeal of the trees themselves. Pruning is also a basic necessity surrounding the general growth of Apricot. If Apricot get too large, they begin to fall apart fairly quickly. Losing branches to weight distribution issues can be fatal for Apricot, especially those in drier climates. Pruning helps to reaffirm the crown’s structure and provide support to key branches.
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When should I prune my Apricot?
Apricot should be pruned in the late winter, when there are no signs of any new growth yet. During this time, Apricot is dormant, and therefore can sustain itself better without extra growth to maintain. During this time, you can cut away the branches that are most cumbersome. During the summer months, when new growth shoots are sprouting up every which way, lots of the green shoots will need to be trimmed. While some of them may prove to be useful, most of the weak and thin branches that come out before fruiting season will need to be cut away in order to produce better fruit on established branches.
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How can I prune my Apricot?
In order to properly prune the Apricot, you need a basic set of tools and skills. Fortunately, most of the Apricot are pruned more or less the same; for this reason, getting the hang of Apricot pruning is fairly easy and time-efficient. It boils down to timing, selection, and methodology. Tools Before you start cutting away at your Apricot, first determine which kind of tools you’re working with. Most of the Apricot can be pruned with hand shears or loppers, but some may require a pole saw (for extra tall or hard-to-reach areas). Don’t neglect the open wounds where you prune, either; larger cuts should be covered with honey or pine sap to help deter common Apricot diseases and pests. How to Prune To prune the Apricot, you’ll need your shears to be clean and sharp. Disinfect them with either warm, soapy water or a disinfectant like rubbing alcohol to remove any possible pathogens that may be hitching a ride on the surface of your shears. This is the first and easiest step to prevent plant infections from spreading. Then, you can start to cut away branches. First, trim away any obviously dead, dying or diseased branches. After that, trim off those grows upward towards the top of the crown or downward towards the ground. These branches will grow to become a nuisance, and restrict both airflow and sunlight to the inner branches where fruit will suffocate. Remove any suckers that grow from the base of the trunk, as well. Try to leave larger branches and remove smaller ones that cross over or intercept larger branches in any way. Instead of shortening branches, remove entire branches from their bases so that they won’t continue to grow in the way. Use pine sap or honey to close off wounds where branches have been cut to help the tree heal faster.
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What should I do after pruning my Apricot?
Check the tree to be sure that you have pruned away any branches that might grow into an issue in the future. Snip away any excess stragglers that you may have missed, then be sure to remove all of the fallen debris from the tree’s area to prevent undergrowth from taking over. It’s a good idea to use gloves, as Apricot bark can be rough in places.
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How can I train my Apricot seedling?
To train the Apricot from a seedling size into a mature tree, you’ll need to plan out which branches to keep and which to lose in order to maintain a good balance of branches that stem up and out at an angle of at least 45 degrees. Trim away any branches that grow vertically in any direction as the seedling grows. Branches that grow horizontally will produce more fruits, while those that grow vertically will not carry much fruit and will impede the growth of important branches. Over time, the branches you choose in the beginning will grow up to become key branches that support most of the tree’s fruiting and further branching efforts! Also to note is that some of the Apricot may split down the road if they’re not properly trained as seedlings. If there is a “Y” division early on, it’s best to choose the thicker side of the split to keep, then cut away the thinner side of the split back to the base.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Apricot?

Native to parts of East Asia, apricot is able to tolerate temperatures down to -29 ℃ while it is dormant in the winter. Although the tree loves the heat, winter dormancy is essential - it needs between 600-900 chill hours a year at a temperature lower than 7 ℃ in order to set its blooms. The apricot is tolerant to drought, but needs regular water for optimum fruit production. It is more resilient against flooding than other stone fruit trees, but won't tolerate being water-logged for too long.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Apricot?
The best temperature for Apricot to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Apricot during different growing phases?
Research shows that Apricot will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Apricot warm in cold seasons?
Apricot can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Apricot suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Apricot if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Apricot gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Apricot gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Apricot?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Apricot healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Apricot warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Apricot, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Apricot with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Apricot in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Apricot is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Apricot from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Apricot extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Apricot in different seasons?
Apricot is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Apricot?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Apricot in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Apricot?

The apricot does best in deep, well-draining, and loamy soil, preferably rich in organic matter. The soil should also be slightly alkaline, with an ideal pH of around 6-7.5. The tree will struggle if your soil is shallow, poor, or too heavy - amending your soil with well-rotted organic material can help to counter this.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Apricot?

When grown commercially, the apricot is usually propagated by grafting or budding, but propagating with cuttings has a high success rate too. These are best taken in the fall, while the tree still has some leaves on it, or in the winter during dormancy.
Choose branches less than 2.5 cm in diameter and around 15 to 23 cm long. Cut these from the tree and then strip away any leaves from the bottom half. Dip the base into water and then rooting powder, and insert into a small pot filled with a 50/50 mix of peat moss and sand. Store in partial shade and keep moist until repotting in the spring, once new growth appears.

Propagation

Grafting is the most common way to propagate fruit trees, which can help you get plants with good flavor and yield in the shortest possible time.
While the precise timing for when you should graft a plant will vary based on the type of plant in question, it is generally best to graft most plants from late winter to early spring. It is also crucial to ensure that the plant onto which you are attaching your scion is in a stage of active growth. The seedlings that have just started to grow cannot be grafted until it's 2 years old.
Anyone who wants to graft a plant will be wise to set themselves up with the best tools for the job before they get started. Here is a quick list of the items you’ll need to graft a plant.
What you will need:
  1. A sharp cutting tool, preferably a grafting knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Grafting wax
  4. Twine or string
  5. Grafting tape
Steps:
The size of the understock determines which of the two basic types of grafting teachniques should be used in propagation. A graft may be made to join a nearly equal sized scion and understock together, or several small scions to a larger understock as in cleft or bark grafting.
Grafts with similar scion and understock sizes
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties. The scion and the understock should be of the similar size of thickness.
Step 2: Cutting the stock and scion. Create similar slanted cuts at the bottom of the scion and the top of stock. Split the incision along the longitudinal direction in the middle of the bevel of the understock and scion body for better contact of the incision.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the scion and the rootstock.
Step 4: Use your twine to secure the connection between the branch and the rootstock. Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Grafts with small scions and large understocks
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties and needs to be larger than the the scion. The scion should preferably be a branch over one year old.
Step 2: After removing the leaves and buds from the understock seedling stem. Use a razor blade to make avertical cut from the stem cross-section from the tip. The bottom of the scion should be cut in the shape of a wedge. A slight outward tilt of the scion facilitates wound contact. Leaving a maximum of 3 buds at the end and cut off excess buds on the top.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the grafted branch and the rootstock.
Step 4: Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Step 5: Wrap the graft with grafting tape to protect it while it heals.
Caution: Grafting between the same species is usually successful. Grafting between different genera is occasionally successful. And grafting between families usually cannot be performed.
It can also be propagated by the means of layering.
Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice.
Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps:
Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node.
Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping.
Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed.
Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Apricot?

Choose a warm and sheltered site to plant your apricot - a sloping site is perfect because this allows any frost to slide downwards, causing less damage to the blossoms in the spring. The best time for planting is late fall or early spring, while the tree is still dormant.
To plant in a garden: Dig a hole in your garden that's large enough to accommodate all of the roots on your tree. The depth of the hole should have the old soil mark on the trunk sitting at the same level as the surface of the soil now. If your tree is grafted, the grafting point should be just above the level of the soil. Before placing your tree in, add any stakes or supports you plan on using. Then, backfill the hole, tamp down, and water thoroughly. Standard trees should be spaced 6 to 8 m apart, while dwarf varieties should be spaced 3.5 to 4.5 m apart.
Applying a 5 cm layer of mulch after planting can be especially useful for the apricot - it insulates the roots during cold spells, while preventing the tree from drying out in the spring. Composted bark chippings or well-composted manure both work well.
To plant in a container: Choose a pot around 51 to 61 cm in diameter. A smaller container would be better if your tree is still quite young, and you can then repot as your tree grows. Use a commercial potting mix, adding in some compost or aged manure to enrich it. Place your tree into the pot so that the graft is just about the surface level of the soil, or so that the old soil mark on the trunk matches the new level of soil. Fill in, tamp down, and water thoroughly.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Apricot?

To check if the fruit is ready for harvesting, cup it in your hand and gently twist it - if it easily detaches from its stalk, then this means that it is ripe.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Apricot?

Transplant apricot during the sweet spot of early to mid-spring, when roots can establish quickly in awakening soil. Choose a location with ample sunlight and well-draining soil. To ease the transition, gently tease roots and water deeply immediately after transplanting.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Apricot Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
The apricot plant thrives better and grows healthier under continuous light exposure throughout the day. It can withstand some shade but it may have adverse effects on its growth. Originally from open landscapes, it accustomed to plentiful light, influencing its optimal growth habit. Overexposure can lead to leaf scorch, while inadequate light hampers flowering and fruiting.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 38 ℃
The apricot plant has a native growth environment that requires average temperatures ranging from 20 to 30 ℃ (68 to 86 ℉). However, the plant can tolerate temperatures as low as -30 ℃ (-22 ℉) during its dormant period. It prefers a temperature range of 5 to 35 ℃ (41 to 95 ℉) during its growing season. During the winter, it is important to provide protection if temperatures drop below -20 ℃ (-4 ℉) to prevent damage to the tree.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
12-20 feet
Transplant apricot during the sweet spot of early to mid-spring, when roots can establish quickly in awakening soil. Choose a location with ample sunlight and well-draining soil. To ease the transition, gently tease roots and water deeply immediately after transplanting.
Transplant Techniques
Caterpillars
Caterpillars represent the larval stage of a variety of butterflies and moths that harm 'Apricot' by chewing leaves, fruits, and flowers. The damage can reduce the plant's aesthetic quality, stunt growth, or even result in the plant's death, particularly if infestation becomes severe.
Learn More About the Disease
Wilting
Wilting is a devastating disease that affects the health and productivity of the Apricot. Main effects include severe wilting, yellowing, and gradual disintegration of plant tissues. It's caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen, is moderately infectious but highly lethal, and can be controlled by both non-pesticide and pesticide methods.
Learn More About the Disease
Crown gall
Crown gall is a severe disease affecting Apricot, characterized by tumorous growths. The bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens is the main cause, and it could potentially stunt the plant's growth and reduce its productive lifespan.
Learn More About the Disease
Brown blotch
Brown spot refers to a fungal disease affecting the Apricot, leading to significant damage if not controlled. It is caused by the Cochliobolus miyabeanus pathogen and exhibits unique symptoms. It is known for its high infectiousness and moderate lethality.
Learn More About the Disease
Toxic
Slightly Toxic to Humans
The apricot, like nearly all members of the Prunus genus, has cyanide precursors in every part, including its seeds, with the sole exception of its fruit. Once a human eats the seeds, leaves, or any other part of the plant, these cyanotoxins will convert to cyanide gas when they make contact with stomach acid. This gas absorbs through mucus membranes and poisons the individual. Symptoms progress from agitation to weakness, loss of coordination and muscle spasms, difficulty moving or speaking, slowed respiration and heartbeat, and finally death.
Toxic Details
Feng shui direction
East
The apricot serves as a potent symbol of resoluteness and exuberance in Feng Shui, aligning well with East-facing dwellings. This is primarily due to the East being associated with the element Wood, as per the doctrine of Five Elements, to which the plant apricot harmoniously resonates.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

The apricot flowers in early spring, when many areas may still receive a late frost. To protect the blossoms, cover your tree with some fleece or an old blanket before temperatures dip too low at night. Remove this covering in the morning - your tree will still need sun and air the next day.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

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1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
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2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
more
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
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4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

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1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
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2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
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5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

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1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
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2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
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3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
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4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

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1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
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2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
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3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Apricot based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars represent the larval stage of a variety of butterflies and moths that harm 'Apricot' by chewing leaves, fruits, and flowers. The damage can reduce the plant's aesthetic quality, stunt growth, or even result in the plant's death, particularly if infestation becomes severe.
Wilting
Wilting
Wilting is a devastating disease that affects the health and productivity of the Apricot. Main effects include severe wilting, yellowing, and gradual disintegration of plant tissues. It's caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen, is moderately infectious but highly lethal, and can be controlled by both non-pesticide and pesticide methods.
Crown gall
Crown gall Crown gall
Crown gall
Crown gall is a severe disease affecting Apricot, characterized by tumorous growths. The bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens is the main cause, and it could potentially stunt the plant's growth and reduce its productive lifespan.
Brown blotch
Brown blotch Brown blotch
Brown blotch
Brown spot refers to a fungal disease affecting the Apricot, leading to significant damage if not controlled. It is caused by the Cochliobolus miyabeanus pathogen and exhibits unique symptoms. It is known for its high infectiousness and moderate lethality.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Shot hole disease
Shot hole disease Shot hole disease
Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Solutions: In the case of mild disease symptoms: Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather. When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately. Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry. Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
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Caterpillars
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
What is Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
Caterpillars represent the larval stage of a variety of butterflies and moths that harm 'Apricot' by chewing leaves, fruits, and flowers. The damage can reduce the plant's aesthetic quality, stunt growth, or even result in the plant's death, particularly if infestation becomes severe.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The Apricot shows signs like defoliated branches, holes in leaves, flowers, and fruits. The caterpillars and their droppings, often termed 'frass', are visible on the plant. Uncontrolled infestations could result in browning and dropping of leaves, and reduced fruit yield.
What Causes Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
1
External factors
Caterpillars are usually attracted to Apricot if they find it suitable for feeding and reproducing.
2
Environmental conditions
High temperatures and humidity can favor caterpillar development.
3
Lack of natural predators
If birds, spiders, and other insects are scarce, caterpillars can infest freely.
How to Treat Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Record check: Regularly inspect Apricot for the presence of caterpillars and manually remove.

Use traps: Install pheromone traps to attract and capture adult moths.

Biological control: Encourage natural predators, such as birds and beneficial insects, to inhibit caterpillar populations.
2
Pesticide
Spot treatment: Apply insecticides only on the infested area.

Scheduled use: Regularly use pesticides during the growing season.

Targeted formulation: Use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or other caterpillar-specific pesticides.
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Wilting
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Wilting Disease on Apricot?
What is Wilting Disease on Apricot?
Wilting is a devastating disease that affects the health and productivity of the Apricot. Main effects include severe wilting, yellowing, and gradual disintegration of plant tissues. It's caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen, is moderately infectious but highly lethal, and can be controlled by both non-pesticide and pesticide methods.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The main symptoms of Wilting on the Apricot include yellowing and wilting of leaves, especially on one side of the plant. The disease also causes dieback of branches and ultimately results in stunted growth.
What Causes Wilting Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Wilting Disease on Apricot?
1
Fungal pathogen
Wilting is primarily caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen known as Verticillium. The fungus enters the plant through the roots and impedes the plant's water transportation system.
2
Environmental factors
Excessively wet soil or overwatering and compacted soil can indirectly contribute to the spread of the disease.
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Plant selection: Grow disease-resistant varieties of Apricot in an optimal growing environment.

Crop rotation: Rotate Apricot with non-host crops at least every four years to reduce the pathogen's population.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Apply approved fungicides to infected plants and surrounding soil, as a part of regular maintenance or when the symptoms appear.

Soil sterilization: In severe cases, soil sterilization may be necessary to eliminate the fungal pathogen.
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Crown gall
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
What is Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
Crown gall is a severe disease affecting Apricot, characterized by tumorous growths. The bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens is the main cause, and it could potentially stunt the plant's growth and reduce its productive lifespan.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Unusual swellings or overgrowths, also known as galls, appear predominantly on the roots and lower stem of Apricot. Leaf chlorosis, stunted growth, and wilting may also occur due to impaired nutrient uptake.
What Causes Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
1
Pathogen
Agrobacterium tumefaciens is primarily responsible for Crown gall disease on Apricot, driven by DNA transfer which modifies plant cells into a gall
2
Environmental Factors
The bacteria are soil-dwelling and are mostly introduced to the plant through injuries resulting from grafting, pruning, etc.
How to Treat Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Remove infected plants: Uproot and destroy affected Apricot plants to limit the bacteria's spread

Solarize soil: Use solarization to disinfect the soil and kill the bacteria
2
Pesticide
Use antibiotics: Streptomycin or agrimycin treatment is effective against the bacteria. Applied as a soil drench or spray onto the wound after grafting or pruning
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Brown blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
What is Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
Brown spot refers to a fungal disease affecting the Apricot, leading to significant damage if not controlled. It is caused by the Cochliobolus miyabeanus pathogen and exhibits unique symptoms. It is known for its high infectiousness and moderate lethality.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The Apricot shows brown to tan leaf spots, bordered by yellow halos. More severe cases spotlight significant leaf dropping and fruit spotting. Diseased fruit development becomes uneven and is likely to drop prematurely.
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
1
Cochliobolus miyabeanus
A fungal pathogen, it infects the Apricot via wind-driven rain, or from infected residues on the ground. It thrives in warm and humid environments.
2
Environmental factors
The disease is prevalent in areas with high humidity and rain.
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Sanitation: Ensure to remove infected leaves and other debris from the vicinity of the plant to limit sources of infection.

Moderate watering: Avoid excess watering that causes high humidity, a conducive environment for the fungus.
2
Pesticide
Regular Spraying: Application of suitable fungicides like copper-based sprays can control infection.

Scheduled treatment: Consistent spraying at crucial stages - particularly during bud-swell and post-harvest - can inhibit disease progression.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Shot hole disease
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Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Overview
Overview
Shot hole disease (coryneum blight) most commonly affects mature trees, particularly fruit trees. The fungus can infect the buds, fruit, and leaves of the tree. It causes spots on the leaves that eventually die and drop out. This makes the leaves look tattered and affects the overall health of the tree. If the fruit is affected, it will result in cracks in the skin and generally make the fruit inedible.
The disease is very difficult to eliminate entirely but further infection can be prevented with good cultural practices and by removing diseased parts of the tree. Some of the more common fruit trees affected by this disease include plums, peaches, cherries, nectarines, apricot, and almonds.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Small red spots appear on the leaves. These spots then become larger and turn purple with a white center. Finally, the spots drop out of the leaves altogether, leaving small round holes. These almost look like gunshot holes, hence the name of the disease.
As the disease progresses, more holes will form in the leaves with some joining together to make larger holes.
As the infection spreads to developing fruit, purple-red spots appear on the outer skin. Eventually, these spots will cause the skin to crack and some of the juice will ooze out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Shot hole disease is a fungal disease (Wilsonomyces**carpophilus) that primarily targets mature trees. The fungal spores are carried onto the tree through water-splashing and wind.
The disease thrives in wet conditions when there has been excessive rainfall. New growth in spring is particularly susceptible to this disease.
The fungal spores overwinter inside buds on the tree and also lesions on twigs.
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Apricot and Their Toxicity

Slightly Toxic to Humans
Slightly Toxic to Humans
The apricot, like nearly all members of the Prunus genus, has cyanide precursors in every part, including its seeds, with the sole exception of its fruit. Once a human eats the seeds, leaves, or any other part of the plant, these cyanotoxins will convert to cyanide gas when they make contact with stomach acid. This gas absorbs through mucus membranes and poisons the individual. Symptoms progress from agitation to weakness, loss of coordination and muscle spasms, difficulty moving or speaking, slowed respiration and heartbeat, and finally death.
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
All parts of the apricot tree are extremely toxic to dogs. Although the seeds contain the highest concentration of the toxin, cyanide, the entire plant is poisonous when ingested and can lead to death if the animal is not treated by a veterinarian quickly. Symptoms of ingestion include drooling, aggressiveness, vomiting, bloody stools, watery eyes, and weakness.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
Severely poisonous to cats, consumption of any part of the apricot (Prunus armeniaca) plant may result in vomiting, difficulty breathing, dilated pupils, or shock. The cyanogenic compounds contained within the stems, leaves, and seeds of this plant are particularly potent when the plant is wilting, so mature or dying plants are more poisonous than young and vital ones. Veterinary attention is advised.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Apricot

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
6 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 to 4.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 to 12 m

Name story

Armenian plum
The origin of the species is disputed. It was known in Armenia during ancient times and has been cultivated over there for so long, it is often thought to have originated from Armenia. Since its botanical name Prunus armeniaca is derived based on the assumption, it is called Armenian plum.

Usages

Garden Use
Apricot is a popular tree in yards and established groves where the trees are prized for their sweet fruit. The trees are usually grown specifically for their fruits and are often paired with marigolds, rosemary, stevia, and thyme due to their soil compatibility.
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Common Problems

Why are there no flowers on my apricot?

more more
There are a few potential reasons for this, the first being the age of your tree. Young trees will often not bloom - don't expect flowers or fruit if your tree is less than 5 years old. Your climate could also be responsible - a warm winter prevents blooms from setting, while a late frost may have damaged new buds.
Incorrect pruning could be another cause - the tree blooms on 2 year old wood, so you need to leave older growth when pruning. Finally, make sure that you aren't over-fertilizing your tree - this can lead to excess foliage but no flowers.

Why are there so many unripe fruits dropping off my apricot?

more more
This is completely normal in early summer - the tree usually produces many more flowers than it actually needs. Since it wouldn't be able to grow so many fruits, it sheds the excess, sometimes twice in a season. This then gives the remaining fruit enough space to properly grow. Hand-thinning excess fruits, leaving 5 to 10 cm between each remaining fruit, can help to prevent fruit drop.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Fruits
trouble-image
more 1 Fruit drops easily: provide the plant with adequate light, but avoid direct sunlight during the afternoon. Be careful not to over-water or allow the soil to become too dry.
trouble-image
more 2 Spots or disease on the fruit: avoid getting water on the fruit. When watering, avoid wetting the fruit as much as possible.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

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Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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Ideal Temperature
-10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
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Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
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Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
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Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Apricot
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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main-image
Apricot
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Apricot
Apricot
Apricot
Apricot
Apricot

How to Care for Apricot

Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) is a fruit-bearing plant species native to Asia. Although the genus name, "Prunus," means plum, the fruits of this tree are actually apricots. The seeds are occasionally used as substitutes for almonds because they share a similar shape and nutty taste. The apricot has been cultivated by humans for centuries, and was even discovered in the remains of ancient Armenian settlements.
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Love
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Human & Pets
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Apricot?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The apricot doesn't like its roots to be dry, so it will need to be regularly weekly during the growing season. Water in the early morning, aiming your hose at the tree's roots and thoroughly soaking the soil. A container-grown tree will need to be watered daily, and maybe even twice a day during extremely hot and dry spells.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Apricot?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
The apricot should be fertilized in the spring once new growth has started to appear. While your tree is young, use a complete granular fertilizer with an equal NPK ratio. Once your tree is old enough to start producing fruit, switch to a 10-15-10 fertilizer - the extra phosphorus will help to boost fruit production. If you are growing your apricot in a container, apply a 10-15-10 liquid fertilizer twice a month.
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Fertilizer

Apricot is generally grown in order to produce edible fruit, and requires ample nutrients to be able to yield the most fruit with the best flavor. Without enough nutrients, the leaves and flowers may be underdeveloped, and the Apricot fails to thrive overall. This is why many gardeners prefer to fertilize.
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Apricot some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit.
Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Apricot energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.You can continue to feed Apricot during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal. Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Apricot you are growing.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Apricot may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Apricot will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
Avoid fertilizing Apricot at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Apricot should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Apricot can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Apricot?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The apricot loves full sun and needs around 8 hours of sunlight a day in order to thrive. Although the tree will grow in partial shade too, this will negatively affect fruit production.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Apricot?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Although most stone fruit trees are only pruned in the summer, due to how vulnerable they are to different diseases, the apricot is much more resilient and can be pruned in both summer and winter. The exception is with fan-trained trees - their sap flow is slower, so these are best pruned in the summer. However, you can still remove dead and diseased branches in the winter.
Pruning is quite simple and minimal for the apricot. Begin by removing any dying, dead, or diseased branches, as well as any new branches that are growing inwards - you want your tree to be open in the middle to allow sun and air to reach all parts. Cut back leading branches by up to a third - this stimulates outwards, rather than upwards, growth. Remove any branches that are crossing over or rubbing against each other, as well as any suckers and watersprouts.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Apricot?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Native to parts of East Asia, apricot is able to tolerate temperatures down to -29 ℃ while it is dormant in the winter. Although the tree loves the heat, winter dormancy is essential - it needs between 600-900 chill hours a year at a temperature lower than 7 ℃ in order to set its blooms. The apricot is tolerant to drought, but needs regular water for optimum fruit production. It is more resilient against flooding than other stone fruit trees, but won't tolerate being water-logged for too long.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Apricot?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The apricot does best in deep, well-draining, and loamy soil, preferably rich in organic matter. The soil should also be slightly alkaline, with an ideal pH of around 6-7.5. The tree will struggle if your soil is shallow, poor, or too heavy - amending your soil with well-rotted organic material can help to counter this.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Apricot?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
When grown commercially, the apricot is usually propagated by grafting or budding, but propagating with cuttings has a high success rate too. These are best taken in the fall, while the tree still has some leaves on it, or in the winter during dormancy.
Choose branches less than 2.5 cm in diameter and around 15 to 23 cm long. Cut these from the tree and then strip away any leaves from the bottom half. Dip the base into water and then rooting powder, and insert into a small pot filled with a 50/50 mix of peat moss and sand. Store in partial shade and keep moist until repotting in the spring, once new growth appears.
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Propagation

Grafting is the most common way to propagate fruit trees, which can help you get plants with good flavor and yield in the shortest possible time.
While the precise timing for when you should graft a plant will vary based on the type of plant in question, it is generally best to graft most plants from late winter to early spring. It is also crucial to ensure that the plant onto which you are attaching your scion is in a stage of active growth. The seedlings that have just started to grow cannot be grafted until it's 2 years old.
Anyone who wants to graft a plant will be wise to set themselves up with the best tools for the job before they get started. Here is a quick list of the items you’ll need to graft a plant.
What you will need:
  1. A sharp cutting tool, preferably a grafting knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Grafting wax
  4. Twine or string
  5. Grafting tape
Steps:
The size of the understock determines which of the two basic types of grafting teachniques should be used in propagation. A graft may be made to join a nearly equal sized scion and understock together, or several small scions to a larger understock as in cleft or bark grafting.
Grafts with similar scion and understock sizes
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties. The scion and the understock should be of the similar size of thickness.
Step 2: Cutting the stock and scion. Create similar slanted cuts at the bottom of the scion and the top of stock. Split the incision along the longitudinal direction in the middle of the bevel of the understock and scion body for better contact of the incision.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the scion and the rootstock.
Step 4: Use your twine to secure the connection between the branch and the rootstock. Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Grafts with small scions and large understocks
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties and needs to be larger than the the scion. The scion should preferably be a branch over one year old.
Step 2: After removing the leaves and buds from the understock seedling stem. Use a razor blade to make avertical cut from the stem cross-section from the tip. The bottom of the scion should be cut in the shape of a wedge. A slight outward tilt of the scion facilitates wound contact. Leaving a maximum of 3 buds at the end and cut off excess buds on the top.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the grafted branch and the rootstock.
Step 4: Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Step 5: Wrap the graft with grafting tape to protect it while it heals.
Caution: Grafting between the same species is usually successful. Grafting between different genera is occasionally successful. And grafting between families usually cannot be performed.
It can also be propagated by the means of layering.
Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice.
Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps:
Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node.
Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping.
Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed.
Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Apricot?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Choose a warm and sheltered site to plant your apricot - a sloping site is perfect because this allows any frost to slide downwards, causing less damage to the blossoms in the spring. The best time for planting is late fall or early spring, while the tree is still dormant.
To plant in a garden: Dig a hole in your garden that's large enough to accommodate all of the roots on your tree. The depth of the hole should have the old soil mark on the trunk sitting at the same level as the surface of the soil now. If your tree is grafted, the grafting point should be just above the level of the soil. Before placing your tree in, add any stakes or supports you plan on using. Then, backfill the hole, tamp down, and water thoroughly. Standard trees should be spaced 6 to 8 m apart, while dwarf varieties should be spaced 3.5 to 4.5 m apart.
Applying a 5 cm layer of mulch after planting can be especially useful for the apricot - it insulates the roots during cold spells, while preventing the tree from drying out in the spring. Composted bark chippings or well-composted manure both work well.
To plant in a container: Choose a pot around 51 to 61 cm in diameter. A smaller container would be better if your tree is still quite young, and you can then repot as your tree grows. Use a commercial potting mix, adding in some compost or aged manure to enrich it. Place your tree into the pot so that the graft is just about the surface level of the soil, or so that the old soil mark on the trunk matches the new level of soil. Fill in, tamp down, and water thoroughly.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Apricot?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
To check if the fruit is ready for harvesting, cup it in your hand and gently twist it - if it easily detaches from its stalk, then this means that it is ripe.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Apricot?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Transplant apricot during the sweet spot of early to mid-spring, when roots can establish quickly in awakening soil. Choose a location with ample sunlight and well-draining soil. To ease the transition, gently tease roots and water deeply immediately after transplanting.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

The apricot flowers in early spring, when many areas may still receive a late frost. To protect the blossoms, cover your tree with some fleece or an old blanket before temperatures dip too low at night. Remove this covering in the morning - your tree will still need sun and air the next day.
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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

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1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
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2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
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3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
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4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

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1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
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2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
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5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

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1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
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2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
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3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
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4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

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Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
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2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
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3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Apricot based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars represent the larval stage of a variety of butterflies and moths that harm 'Apricot' by chewing leaves, fruits, and flowers. The damage can reduce the plant's aesthetic quality, stunt growth, or even result in the plant's death, particularly if infestation becomes severe.
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Wilting
Wilting
Wilting is a devastating disease that affects the health and productivity of the Apricot. Main effects include severe wilting, yellowing, and gradual disintegration of plant tissues. It's caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen, is moderately infectious but highly lethal, and can be controlled by both non-pesticide and pesticide methods.
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Crown gall
Crown gall Crown gall Crown gall
Crown gall is a severe disease affecting Apricot, characterized by tumorous growths. The bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens is the main cause, and it could potentially stunt the plant's growth and reduce its productive lifespan.
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Brown blotch
Brown blotch Brown blotch Brown blotch
Brown spot refers to a fungal disease affecting the Apricot, leading to significant damage if not controlled. It is caused by the Cochliobolus miyabeanus pathogen and exhibits unique symptoms. It is known for its high infectiousness and moderate lethality.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Shot hole disease
Shot hole disease Shot hole disease Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Solutions: In the case of mild disease symptoms: Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather. When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately. Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry. Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
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Caterpillars
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
What is Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
Caterpillars represent the larval stage of a variety of butterflies and moths that harm 'Apricot' by chewing leaves, fruits, and flowers. The damage can reduce the plant's aesthetic quality, stunt growth, or even result in the plant's death, particularly if infestation becomes severe.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The Apricot shows signs like defoliated branches, holes in leaves, flowers, and fruits. The caterpillars and their droppings, often termed 'frass', are visible on the plant. Uncontrolled infestations could result in browning and dropping of leaves, and reduced fruit yield.
What Causes Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
1
External factors
Caterpillars are usually attracted to Apricot if they find it suitable for feeding and reproducing.
2
Environmental conditions
High temperatures and humidity can favor caterpillar development.
3
Lack of natural predators
If birds, spiders, and other insects are scarce, caterpillars can infest freely.
How to Treat Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Caterpillars Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Record check: Regularly inspect Apricot for the presence of caterpillars and manually remove.

Use traps: Install pheromone traps to attract and capture adult moths.

Biological control: Encourage natural predators, such as birds and beneficial insects, to inhibit caterpillar populations.
2
Pesticide
Spot treatment: Apply insecticides only on the infested area.

Scheduled use: Regularly use pesticides during the growing season.

Targeted formulation: Use Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) or other caterpillar-specific pesticides.
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Wilting
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Wilting Disease on Apricot?
What is Wilting Disease on Apricot?
Wilting is a devastating disease that affects the health and productivity of the Apricot. Main effects include severe wilting, yellowing, and gradual disintegration of plant tissues. It's caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen, is moderately infectious but highly lethal, and can be controlled by both non-pesticide and pesticide methods.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The main symptoms of Wilting on the Apricot include yellowing and wilting of leaves, especially on one side of the plant. The disease also causes dieback of branches and ultimately results in stunted growth.
What Causes Wilting Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Wilting Disease on Apricot?
1
Fungal pathogen
Wilting is primarily caused by a soil-borne fungal pathogen known as Verticillium. The fungus enters the plant through the roots and impedes the plant's water transportation system.
2
Environmental factors
Excessively wet soil or overwatering and compacted soil can indirectly contribute to the spread of the disease.
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Plant selection: Grow disease-resistant varieties of Apricot in an optimal growing environment.

Crop rotation: Rotate Apricot with non-host crops at least every four years to reduce the pathogen's population.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Apply approved fungicides to infected plants and surrounding soil, as a part of regular maintenance or when the symptoms appear.

Soil sterilization: In severe cases, soil sterilization may be necessary to eliminate the fungal pathogen.
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Crown gall
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
What is Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
Crown gall is a severe disease affecting Apricot, characterized by tumorous growths. The bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens is the main cause, and it could potentially stunt the plant's growth and reduce its productive lifespan.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Unusual swellings or overgrowths, also known as galls, appear predominantly on the roots and lower stem of Apricot. Leaf chlorosis, stunted growth, and wilting may also occur due to impaired nutrient uptake.
What Causes Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
1
Pathogen
Agrobacterium tumefaciens is primarily responsible for Crown gall disease on Apricot, driven by DNA transfer which modifies plant cells into a gall
2
Environmental Factors
The bacteria are soil-dwelling and are mostly introduced to the plant through injuries resulting from grafting, pruning, etc.
How to Treat Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Crown gall Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Remove infected plants: Uproot and destroy affected Apricot plants to limit the bacteria's spread

Solarize soil: Use solarization to disinfect the soil and kill the bacteria
2
Pesticide
Use antibiotics: Streptomycin or agrimycin treatment is effective against the bacteria. Applied as a soil drench or spray onto the wound after grafting or pruning
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Brown blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
What is Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
Brown spot refers to a fungal disease affecting the Apricot, leading to significant damage if not controlled. It is caused by the Cochliobolus miyabeanus pathogen and exhibits unique symptoms. It is known for its high infectiousness and moderate lethality.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The Apricot shows brown to tan leaf spots, bordered by yellow halos. More severe cases spotlight significant leaf dropping and fruit spotting. Diseased fruit development becomes uneven and is likely to drop prematurely.
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
1
Cochliobolus miyabeanus
A fungal pathogen, it infects the Apricot via wind-driven rain, or from infected residues on the ground. It thrives in warm and humid environments.
2
Environmental factors
The disease is prevalent in areas with high humidity and rain.
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Apricot?
1
Non pesticide
Sanitation: Ensure to remove infected leaves and other debris from the vicinity of the plant to limit sources of infection.

Moderate watering: Avoid excess watering that causes high humidity, a conducive environment for the fungus.
2
Pesticide
Regular Spraying: Application of suitable fungicides like copper-based sprays can control infection.

Scheduled treatment: Consistent spraying at crucial stages - particularly during bud-swell and post-harvest - can inhibit disease progression.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Shot hole disease
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Shot hole disease
Bacterial perforation disease creates brown spots on the leaves which eventually dry up and fall away, leaving perforations in the leaf surface.
Overview
Overview
Shot hole disease (coryneum blight) most commonly affects mature trees, particularly fruit trees. The fungus can infect the buds, fruit, and leaves of the tree. It causes spots on the leaves that eventually die and drop out. This makes the leaves look tattered and affects the overall health of the tree. If the fruit is affected, it will result in cracks in the skin and generally make the fruit inedible.
The disease is very difficult to eliminate entirely but further infection can be prevented with good cultural practices and by removing diseased parts of the tree. Some of the more common fruit trees affected by this disease include plums, peaches, cherries, nectarines, apricot, and almonds.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Small red spots appear on the leaves. These spots then become larger and turn purple with a white center. Finally, the spots drop out of the leaves altogether, leaving small round holes. These almost look like gunshot holes, hence the name of the disease.
As the disease progresses, more holes will form in the leaves with some joining together to make larger holes.
As the infection spreads to developing fruit, purple-red spots appear on the outer skin. Eventually, these spots will cause the skin to crack and some of the juice will ooze out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Shot hole disease is a fungal disease (Wilsonomyces**carpophilus) that primarily targets mature trees. The fungal spores are carried onto the tree through water-splashing and wind.
The disease thrives in wet conditions when there has been excessive rainfall. New growth in spring is particularly susceptible to this disease.
The fungal spores overwinter inside buds on the tree and also lesions on twigs.
Solutions
Solutions
In the case of mild disease symptoms:
  1. Remove diseased leaves immediately. Also remove any foliage on the ground near the plants, including leaves without the disease. Take care not to touch healthy foliage during removal to avoid spreading. It is best to remove leaves in dry, cool weather.
When holes and spots are numerous, and leaves start to drop, take these actions immediately.
  1. Remove diseased leaves right away. Just like in mild cases, remove all foliage on the ground near the plant. Avoid touching non-diseased foliage, and only remove leaves when they are dry.
  2. Apply fungicide and bactericide. Apply a copper-based fungicide. Spray young leaves about once every week. It's best to apply these products in spring when damage is beginning. After mid-summer, they will have little benefit.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are the best ways to prevent shot hole disease:
  1. Use drip irrigation. To stop the fungal spores from splashing onto the tree, use drip irrigation that directs water straight to the roots.
  2. Inspect trees when the leaves have dropped. Remove any dead or diseased branches that may have fungal spores in them. A good pruning will also open up the tree and encourage more airflow.
  3. Rake and keep dropped foliage clear. Raking leaves from around trees and shrubs regularly is one of the best ways to prevent shot hole disease and keep it at bay.
  4. Remove lower branches. This makes it harder for the fungal spores to be splashed up onto the vulnerable parts of the tree, and also increases airflow.
  5. Remove old and very diseased trees. Though shot hole disease can't be completely prevented, this can help remove the biggest disease vector. It can also create more space and help air circulation, which further prevents spread.
  6. Apply preventative chemical control. To prevent the disease from occurring in the spring, apply a fungicide in late winter just before bud swell.
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care_toxicity

Apricot and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Slightly Toxic to Humans
The apricot, like nearly all members of the Prunus genus, has cyanide precursors in every part, including its seeds, with the sole exception of its fruit. Once a human eats the seeds, leaves, or any other part of the plant, these cyanotoxins will convert to cyanide gas when they make contact with stomach acid. This gas absorbs through mucus membranes and poisons the individual. Symptoms progress from agitation to weakness, loss of coordination and muscle spasms, difficulty moving or speaking, slowed respiration and heartbeat, and finally death.
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Toxic to Dogs
All parts of the apricot tree are extremely toxic to dogs. Although the seeds contain the highest concentration of the toxin, cyanide, the entire plant is poisonous when ingested and can lead to death if the animal is not treated by a veterinarian quickly. Symptoms of ingestion include drooling, aggressiveness, vomiting, bloody stools, watery eyes, and weakness.
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Toxic to Cats
Severely poisonous to cats, consumption of any part of the apricot (Prunus armeniaca) plant may result in vomiting, difficulty breathing, dilated pupils, or shock. The cyanogenic compounds contained within the stems, leaves, and seeds of this plant are particularly potent when the plant is wilting, so mature or dying plants are more poisonous than young and vital ones. Veterinary attention is advised.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Apricot

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree, Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
6 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 to 4.5 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
3 to 12 m

Name story

Armenian plum
The origin of the species is disputed. It was known in Armenia during ancient times and has been cultivated over there for so long, it is often thought to have originated from Armenia. Since its botanical name Prunus armeniaca is derived based on the assumption, it is called Armenian plum.

Usages

Garden Use
Apricot is a popular tree in yards and established groves where the trees are prized for their sweet fruit. The trees are usually grown specifically for their fruits and are often paired with marigolds, rosemary, stevia, and thyme due to their soil compatibility.
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Common Problems

Why are there no flowers on my apricot?

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There are a few potential reasons for this, the first being the age of your tree. Young trees will often not bloom - don't expect flowers or fruit if your tree is less than 5 years old. Your climate could also be responsible - a warm winter prevents blooms from setting, while a late frost may have damaged new buds.
Incorrect pruning could be another cause - the tree blooms on 2 year old wood, so you need to leave older growth when pruning. Finally, make sure that you aren't over-fertilizing your tree - this can lead to excess foliage but no flowers.

Why are there so many unripe fruits dropping off my apricot?

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This is completely normal in early summer - the tree usually produces many more flowers than it actually needs. Since it wouldn't be able to grow so many fruits, it sheds the excess, sometimes twice in a season. This then gives the remaining fruit enough space to properly grow. Hand-thinning excess fruits, leaving 5 to 10 cm between each remaining fruit, can help to prevent fruit drop.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Fruits
Branches
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
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more 1 Fruit drops easily: provide the plant with adequate light, but avoid direct sunlight during the afternoon. Be careful not to over-water or allow the soil to become too dry.
more
more 2 Spots or disease on the fruit: avoid getting water on the fruit. When watering, avoid wetting the fruit as much as possible.
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
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more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
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more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
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Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
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-10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The apricot plant thrives better and grows healthier under continuous light exposure throughout the day. It can withstand some shade but it may have adverse effects on its growth. Originally from open landscapes, it accustomed to plentiful light, influencing its optimal growth habit. Overexposure can lead to leaf scorch, while inadequate light hampers flowering and fruiting.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Apricot thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your apricot may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Apricot enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Apricot thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The apricot plant has a native growth environment that requires average temperatures ranging from 20 to 30 ℃ (68 to 86 ℉). However, the plant can tolerate temperatures as low as -30 ℃ (-22 ℉) during its dormant period. It prefers a temperature range of 5 to 35 ℃ (41 to 95 ℉) during its growing season. During the winter, it is important to provide protection if temperatures drop below -20 ℃ (-4 ℉) to prevent damage to the tree.
Regional wintering strategies
Apricot has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Apricot is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Apricot should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Apricot?
Transplant apricot during the sweet spot of early to mid-spring, when roots can establish quickly in awakening soil. Choose a location with ample sunlight and well-draining soil. To ease the transition, gently tease roots and water deeply immediately after transplanting.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Apricot?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Apricot?
Primetime for relocating apricot is 'crack of spring until its zenith', offering apricot ample time to establish roots. This period nurtures healthier growth, ensuring a vibrant apricot display. So, let's prepare and make the move all smooth!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Apricot Plants?
When transplanting apricot, give each plant plenty of room to grow by spacing them 12-20 ft (3.7-6.1 m) apart. This will ensure they have enough space to spread their roots and branches.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Apricot Transplanting?
For apricot, choose a well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0-7.0). Adding organic matter, such as compost, and a base fertilizer with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium will help provide nutrients for healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Apricot?
Make sure to select a location for your apricot that receives full sun exposure for at least 6-8 hours per day. This will promote strong growth and a bountiful harvest of delicious fruits.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Apricot?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and apricot plant.
Shovel or Spade
For digging the planting hole and removing apricot from its original location.
Pruning Shears
For trimming any damaged or broken roots of apricot plant.
Garden Trowel
For handling delicate roots and loosening the soil around apricot plant.
Watering Can or Hose
To water apricot plant both before and after transplanting.
Organic Compost
To improve the soil condition and provide nutrients for apricot plant.
Stakes and Ties
For supporting the tree during the initial transplanting period.
How Do You Remove Apricot from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the apricot plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Before removing the apricot plant from its pot, water it well to make it easier to remove. Gently tip the pot onto its side and slide the plant out by grasping the base, avoiding pulling on the stem or branches. If the plant is stuck, run a butter knife or trowel around the inside edge of the pot to loosen the roots.
From Seedling Tray: Gently slide a small flat-bladed tool, like a butter knife or thin trowel, under the apricot seedling while supporting the stem with the other hand. Lift the seedling out of the tray, being cautious not to damage the roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Apricot
Step1 Prepare the Plant
Using pruning shears, trim any damaged or broken roots on the apricot plant. This helps reduce transplant shock and encourages healthy new root growth.
Step2 Dig the Hole
Dig a hole in the desired location about twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball of the apricot plant. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole with a garden trowel.
Step3 Amend the Soil
Mix organic compost into the excavated soil to improve its quality and provide nutrients for the apricot plant.
Step4 Insert the Plant
Gently place the apricot plant into the hole, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Spread the roots out carefully in the hole.
Step5 Backfill
Fill the hole with the amended soil, gently firming the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets.
Step6 Water
Water the apricot plant thoroughly to help settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
Step7 Provide Support
Insert stakes into the ground around the apricot plant and tie the trunk loosely to the stakes using soft ties to provide support during the initial transplanting period.
How Do You Care For Apricot After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the apricot consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Trimming
Trim any dead or broken branches of the apricot plant to encourage healthy growth and shape the tree.
Mulching
Place a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the apricot plant, leaving a few inches of space between the mulch and the trunk. This helps conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the apricot plant for any signs of stress or disease after transplanting, and address any issues promptly.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Apricot Transplantation.
When should I ideally transplant apricot?
Transplanting apricot is typically best when done from early spring to mid-spring when the plant is dormant.
How much space should I leave between the apricot seedlings during transplant?
When transplanting apricot, ensure you provide about 12-20 feet (3.6-6.1 meters) gap between each plant to promote healthy growth.
What kind of soil does apricot prefer?
Apricot tends to thrive in well-drained soil that's slightly acidic or neutral. It doesn't favor alkaline or waterlogged conditions.
Do I need to water apricot immediately after transplanting?
Yes, watering apricot immediately after transplanting is imperative. It helps eliminate air pockets and lets the roots establish better.
How deep should I plant apricot saplings?
You should plant apricot saplings at the same depth as their root ball or slightly shallower, which is generally around 2-3 feet (0.6-0.9 meters).
How should I prepare the ground before transplanting apricot?
Before transplanting apricot, enrich the ground with organic matter or compost, ensure good drainage, and clear the area of rocks and weeds.
Should I prune apricot after transplanting?
After transplanting, prune apricot to encourage strong structure and growth. Remove broken, diseased or crossing branches, keeping the central leader intact.
Do I need to consider sun exposure while transplanting apricot?
Yes, ensure apricot is planted in a location where it gets full sun, as ample sunlight encourages productive fruiting and overall vitality.
What type of fertilizer should I use for apricot post-transplant?
Use a balanced tree or general-purpose fertilizer. Apply it in early spring, and follow package instructions for application rates and methods.
Is it normal for apricot to show signs of wilt after transplantation?
Temporary wilting can happen as apricot copes with transplant shock. Regular watering without over-saturating, and adequate sunlight should aid in recovery.
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Toxic
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Summarization
Slightly Toxic to Humans
Human
Toxic to Pets
Pets
Leaves
Seeds
Fruits
Stems
Toxic parts
EatenWrongParts
Effect methods
Is Apricot toxic to human?
The apricot, like nearly all members of the Prunus genus, has cyanide precursors in every part, including its seeds, with the sole exception of its fruit. Once a human eats the seeds, leaves, or any other part of the plant, these cyanotoxins will convert to cyanide gas when they make contact with stomach acid. This gas absorbs through mucus membranes and poisons the individual. Symptoms progress from agitation to weakness, loss of coordination and muscle spasms, difficulty moving or speaking, slowed respiration and heartbeat, and finally death.
Is Apricot toxic to dog?
All parts of the apricot tree are extremely toxic to dogs. Although the seeds contain the highest concentration of the toxin, cyanide, the entire plant is poisonous when ingested and can lead to death if the animal is not treated by a veterinarian quickly. Symptoms of ingestion include drooling, aggressiveness, vomiting, bloody stools, watery eyes, and weakness.
Is Apricot toxic to cat?
Severely poisonous to cats, consumption of any part of the apricot (Prunus armeniaca) plant may result in vomiting, difficulty breathing, dilated pupils, or shock. The cyanogenic compounds contained within the stems, leaves, and seeds of this plant are particularly potent when the plant is wilting, so mature or dying plants are more poisonous than young and vital ones. Veterinary attention is advised.
How to identify Apricot
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
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This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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