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How to Care for Common Pear

The common pear is a tree whose fruit is widely popular and grown all over the world. One way this fruit is unique is that it contains hard particles (called stone cells) within in its flesh that provides a gritty feel when eating. Common pear, when properly cared for, can have a life span of 50-75 years.
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Symbolism

abundance, longevity, femininity, fertility
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Common pear
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Common pear
Common pear
Common pear
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

As a drought-resistant plant, your common pear does not need additional watering unless suffering from a long period of drought with heat. Common pear should be watered when it is young during dry spells, as with pot plant. Generally, potted ones need 2.5 cm of water per week. If this is hard to measure, water deeply once you see the topsoil is dry and slightly whitish. Let it dry out between watering intervals and avoid frequent watering which can lead to root rot.

Water

Ground Common pear watering
If Common pear is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Common pear is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Common pear continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Common pear a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week.Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Common pear generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water. Usually, the Common pear will need less water during the winter. Since the Common pear will drop their leaves and go dormant, Once your Common pear growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Common pear can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
Potted Common pear watering
The Common pear needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Common pear to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
The Common pear likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Underwater and overwater
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have a Common pear indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
An overwatered Common pear can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Common pear outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering.Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Common pear recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
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Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Common pear?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Common pear prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Common pear too much/too little?
An overwatered Common pear can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Common pear recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Common pear indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Common pear outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
Read More more
How often should I water my Common pear?
The Common pear likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Common pear generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Common pear?
The Common pear generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Common pear is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Common pear is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Common pear continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Common pear a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
Read More more
Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Common pear according to different seasons or climates?
The Common pear needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Common pear to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Common pear will need less water during the winter. Since the Common pear will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Common pear growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Common pear can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Common pear and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Common pear’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Common pear’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Common pear in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Common pear mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Common pear in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Common pear begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Common pear important?
Watering the Common pear helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Common pear thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Manure and fertilizers should be applied each year early in spring. Be careful with nitrogen-rich fertilizer as overloaded nitrogen can lead to vulnerability to diseases. Common pear is prone to boron deficiency, which can result in cracked or pitted fruits. When symptoms are observed a spray of 0.1% boric acid can be applied. If the soil is fertile, use less fertilizer.

Fertilizer

Common pear is generally grown in order to produce edible fruit, and requires ample nutrients to be able to yield the most fruit with the best flavor. Without enough nutrients, the leaves and flowers may be underdeveloped, and the Common pear fails to thrive overall. This is why many gardeners prefer to fertilize.
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Common pear some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit.
Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Common pear energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.You can continue to feed Common pear during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal. Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Common pear you are growing.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Common pear may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Common pear will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
Avoid fertilizing Common pear at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Common pear should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Common pear can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Common pear?
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Common pear some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit. Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Common pear?
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Common pear energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.
You can continue to feed Common pear during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Common pear?
Avoid fertilizing Common pear at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.
Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Common pear should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Common pear can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Common pear need?
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal.
Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Common pear?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Common pear you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Common pear, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial, especially for fruit trees. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Note that a Common pear should not be fertilized for the first few years.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Common pear too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Common pear may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Common pear will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Common pear to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Common pear needs full sun to produce a good fruit set, so plant it in an open, unshaded spot in the garden. At least 8 hours of full sunlight per day it should receive. Some species and cultivars of Pyrus can stand under partial shade as well.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much/long should Common pear get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Common pear receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Common pear need?
Common pear does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Common pear? How to protect Common pear from the sun and heat damage?
Common pear planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Common pear during extreme weather events.
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Does Common pear need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Common pear from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Common pear, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Common pear to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Common pear gets inadequate sunlight?
When Common pear receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Common pear receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Common pear need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Common pear and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Common pear fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Common pear?
Recently transplanted Common pear will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Common pear drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Common pear that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

The best time to prune common pear is when the tree is dormant from winter till early spring, after leaf fall and before bud-formation. The central leader method is popularly used, to reduce old woody growth that is not productive to improve yields of the fruit. Never remove more than 25% of branches. this can be applied to pot trees as well.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Common pear?
Unkempt, wild Common pear have a hard time bearing fruit, and for good reason. When Common pear isn’t pruned, they have issues ranging from sunlight, weight distribution, and even fungi and other pests. Pruning does a lot to help remedy these issues, as well as to provide for the aesthetic appeal of the trees themselves. Pruning is also a basic necessity surrounding the general growth of Common pear. If Common pear get too large, they begin to fall apart fairly quickly. Losing branches to weight distribution issues can be fatal for Common pear, especially those in drier climates. Pruning helps to reaffirm the crown’s structure and provide support to key branches.
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When should I prune my Common pear?
Common pear should be pruned in the late winter, when there are no signs of any new growth yet. During this time, Common pear is dormant, and therefore can sustain itself better without extra growth to maintain. During this time, you can cut away the branches that are most cumbersome. During the summer months, when new growth shoots are sprouting up every which way, lots of the green shoots will need to be trimmed. While some of them may prove to be useful, most of the weak and thin branches that come out before fruiting season will need to be cut away in order to produce better fruit on established branches.
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How can I prune my Common pear?
In order to properly prune the Common pear, you need a basic set of tools and skills. Fortunately, most of the Common pear are pruned more or less the same; for this reason, getting the hang of Common pear pruning is fairly easy and time-efficient. It boils down to timing, selection, and methodology. Tools Before you start cutting away at your Common pear, first determine which kind of tools you’re working with. Most of the Common pear can be pruned with hand shears or loppers, but some may require a pole saw (for extra tall or hard-to-reach areas). Don’t neglect the open wounds where you prune, either; larger cuts should be covered with honey or pine sap to help deter common Common pear diseases and pests. How to Prune To prune the Common pear, you’ll need your shears to be clean and sharp. Disinfect them with either warm, soapy water or a disinfectant like rubbing alcohol to remove any possible pathogens that may be hitching a ride on the surface of your shears. This is the first and easiest step to prevent plant infections from spreading. Then, you can start to cut away branches. First, trim away any obviously dead, dying or diseased branches. After that, trim off those grows upward towards the top of the crown or downward towards the ground. These branches will grow to become a nuisance, and restrict both airflow and sunlight to the inner branches where fruit will suffocate. Remove any suckers that grow from the base of the trunk, as well. Try to leave larger branches and remove smaller ones that cross over or intercept larger branches in any way. Instead of shortening branches, remove entire branches from their bases so that they won’t continue to grow in the way. Use pine sap or honey to close off wounds where branches have been cut to help the tree heal faster.
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What should I do after pruning my Common pear?
Check the tree to be sure that you have pruned away any branches that might grow into an issue in the future. Snip away any excess stragglers that you may have missed, then be sure to remove all of the fallen debris from the tree’s area to prevent undergrowth from taking over. It’s a good idea to use gloves, as Common pear bark can be rough in places.
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How can I train my Common pear seedling?
To train the Common pear from a seedling size into a mature tree, you’ll need to plan out which branches to keep and which to lose in order to maintain a good balance of branches that stem up and out at an angle of at least 45 degrees. Trim away any branches that grow vertically in any direction as the seedling grows. Branches that grow horizontally will produce more fruits, while those that grow vertically will not carry much fruit and will impede the growth of important branches. Over time, the branches you choose in the beginning will grow up to become key branches that support most of the tree’s fruiting and further branching efforts! Also to note is that some of the Common pear may split down the road if they’re not properly trained as seedlings. If there is a “Y” division early on, it’s best to choose the thicker side of the split to keep, then cut away the thinner side of the split back to the base.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Common pear is cultivated widely in temperate and sub-tropical climatic conditions as it is resistant to both cold and heat. It can tolerate temperatures low as -26 ℃when it is dormant ( for some species and cultivars of genus Pyrus this can be even lower) and high as 45 ℃ in the growing season. Frost in spring is detrimental, and temperatures of 3 ℃ and less can kill open flowers, leading to fewer fruits.
It prefers medium or slightly dry conditions and demands little on humidity or watering. It is quite drought-tolerant once it established, but it may not be the case with waterlogging, so a site on higher ground or one not prone to waterlogging will be favorable for it.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Common pear?
The best temperature for Common pear to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Common pear during different growing phases?
Research shows that Common pear will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Common pear warm in cold seasons?
Common pear can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Common pear suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Common pear if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Common pear gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Common pear gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Common pear?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Common pear healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Common pear warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Common pear, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Common pear with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Common pear in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Common pear is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Common pear from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Common pear extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Common pear in different seasons?
Common pear is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Common pear?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Common pear in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Common pear grows in a wide range of soils, even sandy or chalky soils, but however, loamy soil can be the best. It does well in soils that are well aerated and well-drained, which is why they sometimes need slopes. Common pear also likes slightly acidic to neutral soils (6.1-7.3), especially soil with a pH near 7, although some other species and cultivars can grow well in slightly alkaline soil.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

There are various methods used to propagate common pear. You can collect seeds from mature pears, and you are recommended to prepare more seeds as the germination rate is low. Dry the seeds, wrap in wet paper towels in groups of 3, put the towels in seal bags, and place them in a dark but warm place to germinate. You can check every 15 days to see if you need to wet the towel again. plant those germinating seeds in pots and place them where sunny and warm. Keep the soil moist and wait for them to grow until you can transplant them into your garden.
If you think this is complicated, sow the seeds directly in the ground in winter also works. However, you can expect an even lower germination rate.
You can also do the grafting. Buy a rootstock for grafting if you are aiming at fruits. Grow your rootstock with seedlings. Grafting is best done from late winter to early spring.

Propagation

Grafting is the most common way to propagate fruit trees, which can help you get plants with good flavor and yield in the shortest possible time.
While the precise timing for when you should graft a plant will vary based on the type of plant in question, it is generally best to graft most plants from late winter to early spring. It is also crucial to ensure that the plant onto which you are attaching your scion is in a stage of active growth. The seedlings that have just started to grow cannot be grafted until it's 2 years old.
Anyone who wants to graft a plant will be wise to set themselves up with the best tools for the job before they get started. Here is a quick list of the items you’ll need to graft a plant.
What you will need:
  1. A sharp cutting tool, preferably a grafting knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Grafting wax
  4. Twine or string
  5. Grafting tape
Steps:
The size of the understock determines which of the two basic types of grafting teachniques should be used in propagation. A graft may be made to join a nearly equal sized scion and understock together, or several small scions to a larger understock as in cleft or bark grafting.
Grafts with similar scion and understock sizes
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties. The scion and the understock should be of the similar size of thickness.
Step 2: Cutting the stock and scion. Create similar slanted cuts at the bottom of the scion and the top of stock. Split the incision along the longitudinal direction in the middle of the bevel of the understock and scion body for better contact of the incision.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the scion and the rootstock.
Step 4: Use your twine to secure the connection between the branch and the rootstock. Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Grafts with small scions and large understocks
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties and needs to be larger than the the scion. The scion should preferably be a branch over one year old.
Step 2: After removing the leaves and buds from the understock seedling stem. Use a razor blade to make avertical cut from the stem cross-section from the tip. The bottom of the scion should be cut in the shape of a wedge. A slight outward tilt of the scion facilitates wound contact. Leaving a maximum of 3 buds at the end and cut off excess buds on the top.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the grafted branch and the rootstock.
Step 4: Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Step 5: Wrap the graft with grafting tape to protect it while it heals.
Caution: Grafting between the same species is usually successful. Grafting between different genera is occasionally successful. And grafting between families usually cannot be performed.
It can also be propagated by the means of layering.
Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice.
Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps:
Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node.
Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping.
Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed.
Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Growing conditions for common pear are fairly simple. It is not a fussy plant and not difficult to grow. You can start with a seedling purchased in a nearby nursery or online. Seedlings that are one year old can be transplanted into your garden where soils are well-drained in mid-winter. Space your trees 6 to 8 m apart to ensure air circulation.
Although some species can self-fertilize, you are recommended to plant at least two trees in the garden or orchard so that they can cross-pollinate to produce fruits. Notice that although different species and varieties can generally interbreed without compatibility issues, if you want to interbreed, ensure your trees are blooming at a similar time first.
If you want to grow your common pear in containers, you are recommended to choose dwarf cultivars. Choose a large container at least twice as big as the root ball of your tree. Fill the pot with soil after putting the tree inside. You can place the pot where under full sun then.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Depending on the variety and species, common pear takes 3 to 10 years to bear fruits, and the fruits mature by mid-summer to fall. Pears should be harvested when they are mature, but not ripe. They will ripen in storage. An easy way to do this is to put them together with fruits like bananas and apples, since ethylene that those fruits give out can accelerate the ripening. Unripe fruit can be stored in cool temperatures around 4 ℃ in the dark, without any light, for 1 to 2 months. After ripening, the fruit is usually consumed fresh or is processed by drying, pureeing, and canning, depending on your purpose and preference.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
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Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

As a tough plant, the tree of common pear generally does not need precautions. However, if you value the fruit, you need to do bagging them right after thinning the fruit.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

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Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
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Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
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Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
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4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

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A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
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Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
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5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

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Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
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Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
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Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
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Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

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Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
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At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
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If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common pear based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Rust disease
Rust disease Rust disease
Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Solutions: Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Black spot
Black spot Black spot
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Yellow spot
Yellow spot Yellow spot
Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Rust disease
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Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Overview
Overview
Rust disease is a fungus that is most common on the lower leaves of mature plants. If a plant is badly affected, the leaves will deform and eventually drop off the plant. The disease causes blemishes on the leaves that resemble rust spots. It is more common after periods of extended rainfall, as this results in the germination of the fungal spores and the dispersal of the spores onto the plant.
Although rust disease is not fatal for most plants, it can weaken the overall health of the tree and make it more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. Therefore, it's best to remove the affected material and follow good cultural practices to prevent further infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the typical symptoms of rust disease:
  • Slightly raised, white spots on the undersides of the leaves and stems.
  • These spots then turn a reddish-orange color, which indicates the presence of fungal spores.
  • Reddish-orange spots appear on the upper sides of the leaves as well.
  • Eventually, the rust spots form pustules or raised lumps that can turn yellow-green and finally black.
  • Highly infected leaves will become yellow and drop off the plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Rust disease is caused by the fungus Phragmidium spp. The fungal spores overwinter inside the stems of the plant and are spread by water and wind. They can be identified by dark, cork-like blotches.
Like most fungal diseases, infection occurs during warm, humid weather, especially when the leaves remain damp for an extended period of time.
Solutions
Solutions
Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted.
  1. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants.
  2. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying.
  3. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent rust diseases is by planting resistant varieties. Most nurseries will specify which species qualify. When introducing new plants, check the plants for signs of rust before planting.
Rust disease often spreads through watering, or when working with wet plants, so take care not to touch an infected plant and accidentally spread spores to healthy ones. Keep vulnerable plants well-pruned to maximize airflow and prevent moisture build-up.
If the soil is contaminated, it's also a good idea to lay down thick mulch around the base of plants. This prevents spores from splashing up to hit plant leaves while watering.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Yellow spot
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
  • Plant resistant varieties
  • Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
  • Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
  • Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
  • Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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More About Common Pear

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
6 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Orange
Flower Size
Flower Size
1.5 to 3 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
2 to 20 m

Name story

Common pear
The specific epithet, communis comes from the Anglo-Saxon word, ġemǣne meaning common. It is also the most popular pear species in most orchards in temperate regions. Furthermore, the word, pear is probably derived from Germanic pera as a loanword of Sermo Vulgaris, pira meaning "fruit". So, it is called the common pear.

Usages

Garden Use
The common pear tree it can be a lovely addition to a landscape or garden. Primarily grown for its fruit, it is not often used as an ornamental. Common pear trees will, however, produce lovely flowers and provide a nice shaded area in the lawn. It can make a wonderful addition as a border tree to provide privacy as well since its branches and leaves grow quite densely. Common herbs, allium, and clover are great companions.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of my common pear curling?

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If there is no sign of pests or disease, your tree can be suffering drought. Water your tree more frequently and water deeply. As common pear has a deep root system, watering only the topsoil cannot help.

Why is my common pear not bearing fruit?

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There can be various reasons for less- or non-productivity. Some species of Pyrus are not self-fertile as they cannot bear any fruits without either another compactable pear tree nearby or pollinators. If this is the case, you can hand pollinate them. Another reason can be insufficient sunlight. Because common pear is hard to transplant after establishment, if you cannot make it unshaded, it may never fruit. Additionally, notice that if your tree is grown from a seed, it may hardly bear fruits in a couple of years.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant
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Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.
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Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
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Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
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more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Fruits
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more 1 Fruit drops easily: provide the plant with adequate light, but avoid direct sunlight during the afternoon. Be careful not to over-water or allow the soil to become too dry.
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more 2 Spots or disease on the fruit: avoid getting water on the fruit. When watering, avoid wetting the fruit as much as possible.
Branches
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more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
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more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
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more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
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Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
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more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
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more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
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Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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main-image
Common Pear
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
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main-image
Common Pear
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering/fruiting ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering/fruiting plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Common pear
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Common pear
Common pear
Common pear

How to Care for Common Pear

The common pear is a tree whose fruit is widely popular and grown all over the world. One way this fruit is unique is that it contains hard particles (called stone cells) within in its flesh that provides a gritty feel when eating. Common pear, when properly cared for, can have a life span of 50-75 years.
symbolism

Symbolism

abundance, longevity, femininity, fertility
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
As a drought-resistant plant, your common pear does not need additional watering unless suffering from a long period of drought with heat. Common pear should be watered when it is young during dry spells, as with pot plant. Generally, potted ones need 2.5 cm of water per week. If this is hard to measure, water deeply once you see the topsoil is dry and slightly whitish. Let it dry out between watering intervals and avoid frequent watering which can lead to root rot.
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Water

Ground Common pear watering
If Common pear is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Common pear is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Common pear continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Common pear a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week.Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Common pear generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water. Usually, the Common pear will need less water during the winter. Since the Common pear will drop their leaves and go dormant, Once your Common pear growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Common pear can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
Potted Common pear watering
The Common pear needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Common pear to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
The Common pear likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Underwater and overwater
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have a Common pear indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
An overwatered Common pear can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Common pear outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering.Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Common pear recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Manure and fertilizers should be applied each year early in spring. Be careful with nitrogen-rich fertilizer as overloaded nitrogen can lead to vulnerability to diseases. Common pear is prone to boron deficiency, which can result in cracked or pitted fruits. When symptoms are observed a spray of 0.1% boric acid can be applied. If the soil is fertile, use less fertilizer.
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Fertilizer

Common pear is generally grown in order to produce edible fruit, and requires ample nutrients to be able to yield the most fruit with the best flavor. Without enough nutrients, the leaves and flowers may be underdeveloped, and the Common pear fails to thrive overall. This is why many gardeners prefer to fertilize.
The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Common pear some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit.
Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.
The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Common pear energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.You can continue to feed Common pear during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.
Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal. Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Common pear you are growing.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Common pear may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Common pear will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
Avoid fertilizing Common pear at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Common pear should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Common pear can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Common pear needs full sun to produce a good fruit set, so plant it in an open, unshaded spot in the garden. At least 8 hours of full sunlight per day it should receive. Some species and cultivars of Pyrus can stand under partial shade as well.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
The best time to prune common pear is when the tree is dormant from winter till early spring, after leaf fall and before bud-formation. The central leader method is popularly used, to reduce old woody growth that is not productive to improve yields of the fruit. Never remove more than 25% of branches. this can be applied to pot trees as well.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Common pear is cultivated widely in temperate and sub-tropical climatic conditions as it is resistant to both cold and heat. It can tolerate temperatures low as -26 ℃when it is dormant ( for some species and cultivars of genus Pyrus this can be even lower) and high as 45 ℃ in the growing season. Frost in spring is detrimental, and temperatures of 3 ℃ and less can kill open flowers, leading to fewer fruits.
It prefers medium or slightly dry conditions and demands little on humidity or watering. It is quite drought-tolerant once it established, but it may not be the case with waterlogging, so a site on higher ground or one not prone to waterlogging will be favorable for it.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Common pear grows in a wide range of soils, even sandy or chalky soils, but however, loamy soil can be the best. It does well in soils that are well aerated and well-drained, which is why they sometimes need slopes. Common pear also likes slightly acidic to neutral soils (6.1-7.3), especially soil with a pH near 7, although some other species and cultivars can grow well in slightly alkaline soil.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
There are various methods used to propagate common pear. You can collect seeds from mature pears, and you are recommended to prepare more seeds as the germination rate is low. Dry the seeds, wrap in wet paper towels in groups of 3, put the towels in seal bags, and place them in a dark but warm place to germinate. You can check every 15 days to see if you need to wet the towel again. plant those germinating seeds in pots and place them where sunny and warm. Keep the soil moist and wait for them to grow until you can transplant them into your garden.
If you think this is complicated, sow the seeds directly in the ground in winter also works. However, you can expect an even lower germination rate.
You can also do the grafting. Buy a rootstock for grafting if you are aiming at fruits. Grow your rootstock with seedlings. Grafting is best done from late winter to early spring.
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Propagation

Grafting is the most common way to propagate fruit trees, which can help you get plants with good flavor and yield in the shortest possible time.
While the precise timing for when you should graft a plant will vary based on the type of plant in question, it is generally best to graft most plants from late winter to early spring. It is also crucial to ensure that the plant onto which you are attaching your scion is in a stage of active growth. The seedlings that have just started to grow cannot be grafted until it's 2 years old.
Anyone who wants to graft a plant will be wise to set themselves up with the best tools for the job before they get started. Here is a quick list of the items you’ll need to graft a plant.
What you will need:
  1. A sharp cutting tool, preferably a grafting knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Grafting wax
  4. Twine or string
  5. Grafting tape
Steps:
The size of the understock determines which of the two basic types of grafting teachniques should be used in propagation. A graft may be made to join a nearly equal sized scion and understock together, or several small scions to a larger understock as in cleft or bark grafting.
Grafts with similar scion and understock sizes
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties. The scion and the understock should be of the similar size of thickness.
Step 2: Cutting the stock and scion. Create similar slanted cuts at the bottom of the scion and the top of stock. Split the incision along the longitudinal direction in the middle of the bevel of the understock and scion body for better contact of the incision.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the scion and the rootstock.
Step 4: Use your twine to secure the connection between the branch and the rootstock. Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Grafts with small scions and large understocks
Step 1: Remove a branch with a few healthy buds on it as scions. The understock needs to be selected from seedlings of good varieties and needs to be larger than the the scion. The scion should preferably be a branch over one year old.
Step 2: After removing the leaves and buds from the understock seedling stem. Use a razor blade to make avertical cut from the stem cross-section from the tip. The bottom of the scion should be cut in the shape of a wedge. A slight outward tilt of the scion facilitates wound contact. Leaving a maximum of 3 buds at the end and cut off excess buds on the top.
Step 3: Match up the cuts on the grafted branch and the rootstock.
Step 4: Consider applying grafting wax to protect the wounds.
Step 5: Wrap the graft with grafting tape to protect it while it heals.
Caution: Grafting between the same species is usually successful. Grafting between different genera is occasionally successful. And grafting between families usually cannot be performed.
It can also be propagated by the means of layering.
Pay attention to the age of the branch you want to propagate to know when to start air layering. If you're working with a branch that is old-growth, preferably from the previous year’s growth, spring is the best time for layering. If your chosen branch is new growth, mid-summer is your best bet. These warm months are the best time to encourage new root growth in your plants. A pencil-thick branch could be a good choice.
Since air layering is a little more complicated than other types of layering, you’ll need a few extra tools before you begin the process. Make sure you have everything on hand and then begin!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife
  2. Peat moss for wrapping
  3. Plastic wrap for wrapping
  4. Rubber bands or twist ties
  5. (optional) aluminum foil
  6. (optional) plant growth hormones
Steps:
Step 1: Choose a thick upper stem and clear off the leaves around a chosen node.
Step 2: Below this node, ring peel the plant to a length of 0.5 to 1 inches, completely stripping the bark of the plant. It is necessary to pay attention to safety of the plant when ring stripping.
Step 3: Apply moist (not wet) peat moss to the cut area. Hold the moss in place by tightly wrapping the area with plastic wrap and ties. Apply an extra layer of aluminum foil for sun protection if needed.
Step 4: Remove the stem for propagation once the peat moss is visibly filled with roots. Make sure the wrapped moss is moist during rooting. Use a syringe to inject water if you find that the peat moss is already dry.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Growing conditions for common pear are fairly simple. It is not a fussy plant and not difficult to grow. You can start with a seedling purchased in a nearby nursery or online. Seedlings that are one year old can be transplanted into your garden where soils are well-drained in mid-winter. Space your trees 6 to 8 m apart to ensure air circulation.
Although some species can self-fertilize, you are recommended to plant at least two trees in the garden or orchard so that they can cross-pollinate to produce fruits. Notice that although different species and varieties can generally interbreed without compatibility issues, if you want to interbreed, ensure your trees are blooming at a similar time first.
If you want to grow your common pear in containers, you are recommended to choose dwarf cultivars. Choose a large container at least twice as big as the root ball of your tree. Fill the pot with soil after putting the tree inside. You can place the pot where under full sun then.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Depending on the variety and species, common pear takes 3 to 10 years to bear fruits, and the fruits mature by mid-summer to fall. Pears should be harvested when they are mature, but not ripe. They will ripen in storage. An easy way to do this is to put them together with fruits like bananas and apples, since ethylene that those fruits give out can accelerate the ripening. Unripe fruit can be stored in cool temperatures around 4 ℃ in the dark, without any light, for 1 to 2 months. After ripening, the fruit is usually consumed fresh or is processed by drying, pureeing, and canning, depending on your purpose and preference.
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

As a tough plant, the tree of common pear generally does not need precautions. However, if you value the fruit, you need to do bagging them right after thinning the fruit.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.

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1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
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Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
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3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
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4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

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A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
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2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
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3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
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4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
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Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

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Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
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2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
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Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
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4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

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Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
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2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
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3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Common pear based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot  Fruit Spot  Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
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Rust disease
Rust disease  Rust disease  Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Solutions: Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
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Black spot
Black spot  Black spot  Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Yellow spot
Yellow spot  Yellow spot  Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Diseases Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals. For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin. For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best. Nutrient deficiency Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range. Incorrect watering Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered. Pests Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
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Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Rust disease
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Rust disease
Rust fungus appears as reddish-brown mold deposits on the leaves, stems, and fruits of plants. In certain plants, it also causes reddish-brown spots and galls.
Overview
Overview
Rust disease is a fungus that is most common on the lower leaves of mature plants. If a plant is badly affected, the leaves will deform and eventually drop off the plant. The disease causes blemishes on the leaves that resemble rust spots. It is more common after periods of extended rainfall, as this results in the germination of the fungal spores and the dispersal of the spores onto the plant.
Although rust disease is not fatal for most plants, it can weaken the overall health of the tree and make it more vulnerable to other pests and diseases. Therefore, it's best to remove the affected material and follow good cultural practices to prevent further infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are the typical symptoms of rust disease:
  • Slightly raised, white spots on the undersides of the leaves and stems.
  • These spots then turn a reddish-orange color, which indicates the presence of fungal spores.
  • Reddish-orange spots appear on the upper sides of the leaves as well.
  • Eventually, the rust spots form pustules or raised lumps that can turn yellow-green and finally black.
  • Highly infected leaves will become yellow and drop off the plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Rust disease is caused by the fungus Phragmidium spp. The fungal spores overwinter inside the stems of the plant and are spread by water and wind. They can be identified by dark, cork-like blotches.
Like most fungal diseases, infection occurs during warm, humid weather, especially when the leaves remain damp for an extended period of time.
Solutions
Solutions
Rust disease rarely kills plants, but it can weaken them and leave them vulnerable to other diseases. It's important to treat rust disease as soon as it is spotted.
  1. Remove infected leaves: eliminate fungal spores by picking off infected leaves and throwing them in the garbage. Do not compost them since this can spread the fungus to other plants.
  2. Use fungicide: A copper spray, sulfur powder, or broad-spectrum fungicide can help control a rust outbreak. Be sure to read all usage instructions carefully before applying.
  3. Water smarter: Keep plant leaves dry by watering in the morning so that the midday sun will dry them. It's also smart to use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to water only at the soil level.
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent rust diseases is by planting resistant varieties. Most nurseries will specify which species qualify. When introducing new plants, check the plants for signs of rust before planting.
Rust disease often spreads through watering, or when working with wet plants, so take care not to touch an infected plant and accidentally spread spores to healthy ones. Keep vulnerable plants well-pruned to maximize airflow and prevent moisture build-up.
If the soil is contaminated, it's also a good idea to lay down thick mulch around the base of plants. This prevents spores from splashing up to hit plant leaves while watering.
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Black spot
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
  • The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
  • These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
  • The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
  • The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
  • Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
  • Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
  • Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
  • Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
  • Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
  • Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
  • Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
  • Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
  • Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
  • Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
  • Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
  • Prune regularly.
  • Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
  • Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
  • Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
  • Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Yellow spot
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Yellow spot
Leaf spot can show up as yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Overview
Overview
Yellow spot is a common condition that affects all types of plants -- flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, herbs, and vegetable plants -- worldwide. Yellow spots may appear because of dozens of potential causes and occur in various environmental and climatic conditions, but fortunately, most are easy to address. The most common causes of yellow spots include diseases, nutrient deficiency, watering problems, and pests.
In most cases, yellow spots can be treated without permanent damage to the plant. However, in some fungal disease cases, nothing can be done to treat the disease after infection, and the plant will ultimately perish from the disease.
Due to this, the most critical aspect of addressing yellow spots on plants is correctly determining the cause.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms occur on varying parts of the plant, depending upon the cause. Smaller spots tend to be indicative of younger infections or newly developing problems.
  • Small yellow spots appear on leaves
  • Spots can occur on the lower or upper leaf surfaces, or both
  • Raised, rounded, or sunken spots with fringed or smooth edges
  • Spots may grow together, causing leaves to become totally discolored
  • Stunted growth
  • Premature leaf drop
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The vast majority of yellow spot diseases are caused by fungal pathogens. However, there are some situations in which bacteria, environmental conditions, or other issues may be blamed.
Diseases are typically host-specific, so they may only affect plants within the same family. That said, just about every single species of plant is vulnerable to at least one disease that causes yellow spot. The most common problems are leaf blight, leaf septoria, powdery mildew, and downy mildew, to name a few.
All plants need specific nutrients from the soil to survive. When these nutrients become depleted or unavailable for plant uptake due to particular conditions, deficiencies occur, and yellow spots are seen.
  • Nitrogen is an integral component of chlorophyll.
  • Iron is needed in the enzymes that make chlorophyll.
Yellow spots may also appear because of incorrect watering, mainly underwatering, or infestations of sap-sucking pests such as aphids.
  • Too little water inhibits photosynthesis. Too much water pushes oxygen out of the soil and the roots cannot take in nutrients or even water from the soil.
  • Insect problems can cause yellow spots directly by damaging leaf tissue when feeding, or they may introduce pathogens.
Solutions
Solutions
Diseases
Fungicides can prevent the transmission of spores, but they may not treat the established infection. The first step is removing and disposing of all infected plant parts. Then apply recommended chemicals.
For bacterial infections, apply a spray containing copper or streptomycin.
For fungal infections, consult the local cooperative extension for recommendations on which fungicides will work best.
Nutrient deficiency
Apply a liquid fertilizer via foliar application to fix the deficiency quickly. Follow label directions regarding dosing instructions and application notes, such as not using before the rain or when temperatures are out of the recommended range.
Incorrect watering
Determine the water requirements for your specific plant, and follow accordingly. Some plants like consistently moist soil, and others like the soil to dry out slightly before being watered.
Pests
Thoroughly apply an insecticidal soap, an organic product like neem oil, or an appropriate chemical insecticide to the plant.
Prevention
Prevention
Depending on the type of plant and which specific disease is causing yellow spot, problems may be avoided by taking the following preventative steps:
  • Plant resistant varieties
  • Avoid planting susceptible varieties close together - space susceptible plants further apart from one another so it’s more difficult for the fungal spores to find new plant hosts.
  • Water wisely - water from below rather than splashing water on foliage. This can reduce the spread of both bacterial and fungal pathogens responsible for yellow spot.
  • Prune - prune as a way of getting rid of affected leaves but also to control the spread of yellow spot to new plants. Pruning can also improve air circulation to limit disease spread.
  • Rotate crops - many diseases, including downy mildew, can live in the soil over the winter and produce problems for many years. Rotate annual crops to new locations each year so that they aren’t growing anywhere in which plants in the same family were grown within the last three to four years.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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care_more_info

More About Common Pear

Plant Type
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
6 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Orange
Flower Size
Flower Size
1.5 to 3 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
2 to 20 m

Name story

Common pear
The specific epithet, communis comes from the Anglo-Saxon word, ġemǣne meaning common. It is also the most popular pear species in most orchards in temperate regions. Furthermore, the word, pear is probably derived from Germanic pera as a loanword of Sermo Vulgaris, pira meaning "fruit". So, it is called the common pear.

Usages

Garden Use
The common pear tree it can be a lovely addition to a landscape or garden. Primarily grown for its fruit, it is not often used as an ornamental. Common pear trees will, however, produce lovely flowers and provide a nice shaded area in the lawn. It can make a wonderful addition as a border tree to provide privacy as well since its branches and leaves grow quite densely. Common herbs, allium, and clover are great companions.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of my common pear curling?

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If there is no sign of pests or disease, your tree can be suffering drought. Water your tree more frequently and water deeply. As common pear has a deep root system, watering only the topsoil cannot help.

Why is my common pear not bearing fruit?

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There can be various reasons for less- or non-productivity. Some species of Pyrus are not self-fertile as they cannot bear any fruits without either another compactable pear tree nearby or pollinators. If this is the case, you can hand pollinate them. Another reason can be insufficient sunlight. Because common pear is hard to transplant after establishment, if you cannot make it unshaded, it may never fruit. Additionally, notice that if your tree is grown from a seed, it may hardly bear fruits in a couple of years.
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Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for fruit plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Fruit Plant
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Check Its Health

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Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
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Fruits
The fruit is closely attached and does not fall off easily when shaken. No disease spots.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
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Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Fruits
Branches
Stems
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Fruit drops easily: provide the plant with adequate light, but avoid direct sunlight during the afternoon. Be careful not to over-water or allow the soil to become too dry.
more
more 2 Spots or disease on the fruit: avoid getting water on the fruit. When watering, avoid wetting the fruit as much as possible.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
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Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
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Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower/fruit drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Fruit Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering and fruiting stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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