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FAQ

How to Care for Aconite-leaf Buttercup

Aconite-leaf buttercup produces copious, intricate white flowers with pleasing yellow centers, which are adored by gardeners around the world. Bees and other beneficial insects love this herbaceous perennial as well, as the flowers are particularly rich with nectar and pollen.
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
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Toxic to Pets
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Aconite-leaf buttercup?

During the seedling stage, water the soil only when it is dry. After planting, water thoroughly once and do not allow water to accumulate, as it can decay the young roots of aconite-leaf buttercup. During the peak growing season, water 9 to 10 mm weekly; reduce that by half during winter.
Soil should be kept slightly moist after the flower buds grow out. Water as little as possible during summer, and use a watering can sprinkle water on leaf surfaces. In winter, watering should be further reduced or withheld.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
When watering the Aconite-leaf buttercup, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Aconite-leaf buttercup comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Aconite-leaf buttercup too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Aconite-leaf buttercup, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Aconite-leaf buttercup, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Aconite-leaf buttercup have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Aconite-leaf buttercup. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Aconite-leaf buttercup grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Aconite-leaf buttercup is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Aconite-leaf buttercup needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Aconite-leaf buttercup outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Aconite-leaf buttercup can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Aconite-leaf buttercup need?
When it comes time to water your Aconite-leaf buttercup, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Aconite-leaf buttercup at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Aconite-leaf buttercup can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Aconite-leaf buttercup is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Aconite-leaf buttercup will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Aconite-leaf buttercup will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Aconite-leaf buttercup more water at this time.
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How should I water my Aconite-leaf buttercup through the seasons?
The Aconite-leaf buttercup will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Aconite-leaf buttercup will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Aconite-leaf buttercup indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Aconite-leaf buttercup indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Aconite-leaf buttercup to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Aconite-leaf buttercup very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Before planting, apply fully decomposed organic fertilizer as a base. Mix 1/3 of fully decomposed organic matter into the planting soil evenly. No top dressing is required before you plant the corms. After planting, fertilize with diluted NPK during blooming time.
After the flowers wither, apply fertilizer rich in potassium or phosphorus 1-2 times; spray the foliage with water-soluble NPK (0:10:11). Keep fertilizing your aconite-leaf buttercup until the foliage turns yellow and withers and the leaves start to fall from the plant. This is when underground corms are storing energy for future crops.

Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Aconite-leaf buttercup is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Aconite-leaf buttercup will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Aconite-leaf buttercup to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Aconite-leaf buttercup may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Aconite-leaf buttercup for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Aconite-leaf buttercup and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Aconite-leaf buttercup are relatively low. At times, a Aconite-leaf buttercup may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Aconite-leaf buttercup, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Aconite-leaf buttercup to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Aconite-leaf buttercup look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Aconite-leaf buttercup will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Aconite-leaf buttercup.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Aconite-leaf buttercup. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Aconite-leaf buttercup is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Aconite-leaf buttercup. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Aconite-leaf buttercup.
The most common way to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Aconite-leaf buttercup, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Aconite-leaf buttercup is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Aconite-leaf buttercup to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Aconite-leaf buttercup during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Aconite-leaf buttercup will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
Fertilization is important to the Aconite-leaf buttercup for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Aconite-leaf buttercup and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Aconite-leaf buttercup are relatively low.
At times, a Aconite-leaf buttercup may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Aconite-leaf buttercup, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Aconite-leaf buttercup to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Aconite-leaf buttercup look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
The ideal time to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Aconite-leaf buttercup will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth.
While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Aconite-leaf buttercup.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
You should not fertilize your Aconite-leaf buttercup during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall.
Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Aconite-leaf buttercup will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Aconite-leaf buttercup need?
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Aconite-leaf buttercup. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Aconite-leaf buttercup is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach.
You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Aconite-leaf buttercup. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Aconite-leaf buttercup.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
The most common way to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer.
Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Aconite-leaf buttercup too much?
As you care for your Aconite-leaf buttercup, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline.
Also, overfertilizing a Aconite-leaf buttercup is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Aconite-leaf buttercup to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Aconite-leaf buttercup grows best in full sun. It cannot grow without sunlight during the growth period, and won't bloom without enough sunlight. Selecting a sunny location of your garden beds will help you induce early flowering. It can be planted in raised beds if light conditions don't support it well in your outdoor garden.
For indoor cultivation, place on sunny balconies or rooftops, or near windows. In winter, sunlight gradually weakens. You may need to move it to a sunnier place to receive more sun.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Aconite-leaf buttercup need?
Aconite-leaf buttercup needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
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Can sunlight damage Aconite-leaf buttercup? How to protect Aconite-leaf buttercup from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
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Should I protect Aconite-leaf buttercup from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
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What will happen if Aconite-leaf buttercup gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Aconite-leaf buttercup and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
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Does Aconite-leaf buttercup need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Aconite-leaf buttercup is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Aconite-leaf buttercup is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
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How much light does Aconite-leaf buttercup need for photosynthesis?
Aconite-leaf buttercup will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
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How much light should Aconite-leaf buttercup get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Aconite-leaf buttercup to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Deadhead faded flowers during the active growing season. That encourages more bloom while cutting fresh flowers. When flowering stops and leaves start to yellow and wither, stop watering the plants and allow the leaves to die back fully.
Cut off the entire top of the plant, dig the corms out, and store them in a cool, dry place for the upcoming season. Treat corms with a fungicide solution before storing and planting. Where corms are hardy in the soil, they can be left undisturbed as long as the soil is kept dry during summer. As for potted plants, reserve 3-5 robust flower buds for each plant during the bud stage, and pick the rest.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Aconite-leaf buttercup to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Aconite-leaf buttercup. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Aconite-leaf buttercup is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Aconite-leaf buttercup will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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When is the best time to prune my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Aconite-leaf buttercup. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Aconite-leaf buttercup is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Aconite-leaf buttercup requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Aconite-leaf buttercup will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
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What tools should I prepare for pruning my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
Aconite-leaf buttercup doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Aconite-leaf buttercup?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Aconite-leaf buttercup based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Aconite-leaf buttercup, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Aconite-leaf buttercup likes a dry and cool climate but is not resistant to severe cold or heat. The best temperature for growth is around 16 ℃ in the daytime and 8 ℃ at night. It won't grow well if the temperatures between day and night differ too much.
Aconite-leaf buttercup will go dormant in the high temperatures of summer. The temperature in winter should not go lower than 0 ℃. It likes a moist environment, but can't tolerate accumulated water in the root zone. During active plant growth, water 9 to 10 mm weekly to keep the topsoil moist. When the plant is dormant with only the bulb present under the soil, water 7 to 8 mm every two weeks.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Aconite-leaf buttercup?
The best temperature for Aconite-leaf buttercup depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Aconite-leaf buttercup has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Aconite-leaf buttercup may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Aconite-leaf buttercup will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Aconite-leaf buttercup. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Aconite-leaf buttercup to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
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Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Aconite-leaf buttercup
If this is the first year of your Aconite-leaf buttercup outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Aconite-leaf buttercup, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Aconite-leaf buttercup inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Aconite-leaf buttercup in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Aconite-leaf buttercup should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
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How can I protect Aconite-leaf buttercup from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Aconite-leaf buttercup from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Aconite-leaf buttercup in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Aconite-leaf buttercup is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Aconite-leaf buttercup to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
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Dormant season temperature recommendations for Aconite-leaf buttercup
During the cold winter months, Aconite-leaf buttercup needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Aconite-leaf buttercup, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Aconite-leaf buttercup. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Aconite-leaf buttercup will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Aconite-leaf buttercup likes to grow in well-drained acidic soils, with more nutrients and good air permeability. For potted plants, mix garden soil, leaf mold, and fine sand at a 4:2:1 ratio. The suitable soil pH is 5.8-6.5, which allows the root system to absorb oxygen smoothly and grow well.
For potted plants, use sandy loam that is rich in humus. This kind of soil is rich in nutrients, loose, and aerating, which is beneficial for root development and growth. Soil compaction or poor drainage can result in rotting roots due to waterlogging, so the flowerpot should be changed or the soil improved if plants appear rootbound.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Aconite-leaf buttercup can be propagated by corms, seed, or ramet. Ramet planting is usually done in fall. Dig out the stock plant from the flowerpot, shake the soil from the roots completely, and manually separate the stock plant. Ensure each part has 1-2 new buds and 3-4 small tuberous roots. Place them in 1% potassium permanganate solution for 3-5 minutes to disinfect; then dry and plant them. plant in an open field in fall when the temperature is no higher than 20 ℃. They will germinate in around 20 days.

Propagation

Only sow Aconite-leaf buttercup seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Aconite-leaf buttercup in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Always buy healthy, jumbo-size corms, as they yield more branches and flowers. plant 10 to 15 cm apart and bury corms 5 cm below garden soil, with claws facing downward.
Soak corms in water for 12 hours to help them germinate and keep them in controlled temperature for 15 days. Aconite-leaf buttercup can be planted outdoors when sprouting starts. This process initiates earlier flowering than the conventional sowing method. The temperature for planting corms is 10 to 15 ℃; they will germinate in 2 weeks.
Sowing by seed also works in spring or fall. Disinfect the planting medium before spreading it in the bed. Wet the soil and evenly spread seeds after the water permeates. Cover seeds with fine soil and moisten occasionally if needed. It takes about 15-90 days for seeds to germinate, depending on the variety.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Aconite-leaf buttercup rewards the gardener generously when they blossom. Harvest when the buds are colored. Use sharp garden shears to harvest them when the temperature is low in the morning and put them in a vase with clean water promptly to avoid water loss. These beauties may have 5-7 days' vase life.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Aconite-leaf buttercup?

For aconite-leaf buttercup, the perfect time to transplant is during S2-S3, typically dubbed late spring to early summer. This ensures stronger root system establishment before the colder seasons. Transplant aconite-leaf buttercup in partially shaded areas with moist, well-drained soils. The process should be gentle to lessen root disturbance. Embrace these tips for effective aconite-leaf buttercup transplanting.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Aconite-leaf Buttercup Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The Aconite-leaf buttercup, aconite-leaf buttercup, thrives upon receiving a considerable amount of sunlight throughout the day. It's also able to withstand somewhat shaded positions. Its place of origin entails environments abundant in light. Overexposure or lack of exposure may risk the plant's development and health, influencing its growth potential.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-20 - 38 ℃
Aconite-leaf buttercup is native to environments where temperatures range from 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). This plant has a preference for cool to temperate climates. Seasonal temperature adjustments may be necessary to mimic its natural habitat.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
1-2 feet
For aconite-leaf buttercup, the perfect time to transplant is during S2-S3, typically dubbed late spring to early summer. This ensures stronger root system establishment before the colder seasons. Transplant aconite-leaf buttercup in partially shaded areas with moist, well-drained soils. The process should be gentle to lessen root disturbance. Embrace these tips for effective aconite-leaf buttercup transplanting.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The aconite-leaf buttercup is deemed suitably compatible with the practice of Feng Shui. Its robust structure and resilience promise to generate a stabilizing energy, especially when placed in the North-facing direction. Often, the North is associated with water elements and the aconite-leaf buttercup's affinity to moist habitats could harmonize this energy. However, interpretations may vary, affirming the subjective nature of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

plants can wither with the arrival of the summer heat. Use shading net to protect the soil from warming too much, and you may prolong the flowering period.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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3
When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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4
Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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5
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Aconite-leaf buttercup based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Powdery Mildew
plant poor
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
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care_toxicity

Aconite-leaf Buttercup and Their Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Aconite-leaf buttercup can be severely toxic to dogs; you should seek immediate veterinary attention if you believe your dog has eaten or come into contact with a plant of this type. All parts of these plants contain ranunculin, a toxin that is poisonous when swallowed and also can irritate skin, causing redness or itch. Ingestion symptoms ranging from excessive drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, and loss of appetite to paralysis, seizures, jaundice, spasms, collapse, or even death.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Aconite-leaf Buttercup

Spread
Spread
40 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Plant Height
Plant Height
60 cm
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Common Problems

Can I grow aconite-leaf buttercup in pots?

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Yes, it is very easy to grow in pots. Take a pot of 25 cm and fill it with potting soil containing at least 2/3 compost or coco peat. Bury the corms 5 cm below the potting soil and press the soil gently to release air. Water it immediately. Water again once the corms have sprouted fully.

Why do the leaves of aconite-leaf buttercup turn yellow?

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Several factors are responsible for turning leaves yellow on aconite-leaf buttercup, including nutrient deficiency, especially nitrogen, excessive moisture, low aeration, and environmental stress, such as high soil temperature. If they turn yellow during the active growing season, look for nutrient deficiency and feed your plants a balanced fertilizer.
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Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup
Aconite-leaf buttercup

How to Care for Aconite-leaf Buttercup

Aconite-leaf buttercup produces copious, intricate white flowers with pleasing yellow centers, which are adored by gardeners around the world. Bees and other beneficial insects love this herbaceous perennial as well, as the flowers are particularly rich with nectar and pollen.
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Pets
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
During the seedling stage, water the soil only when it is dry. After planting, water thoroughly once and do not allow water to accumulate, as it can decay the young roots of aconite-leaf buttercup. During the peak growing season, water 9 to 10 mm weekly; reduce that by half during winter.
Soil should be kept slightly moist after the flower buds grow out. Water as little as possible during summer, and use a watering can sprinkle water on leaf surfaces. In winter, watering should be further reduced or withheld.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Before planting, apply fully decomposed organic fertilizer as a base. Mix 1/3 of fully decomposed organic matter into the planting soil evenly. No top dressing is required before you plant the corms. After planting, fertilize with diluted NPK during blooming time.
After the flowers wither, apply fertilizer rich in potassium or phosphorus 1-2 times; spray the foliage with water-soluble NPK (0:10:11). Keep fertilizing your aconite-leaf buttercup until the foliage turns yellow and withers and the leaves start to fall from the plant. This is when underground corms are storing energy for future crops.
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Fertilizer

For those who want to add some color to their garden during the warmer months of the year, the Aconite-leaf buttercup is the right plant choice for you. Each year, a Aconite-leaf buttercup will reward your hard garden labor by displaying many colorful, often long-lasting, blooms. However, in order for the blooms of your Aconite-leaf buttercup to last the longest and look their best, you need to know how to correctly fertilize these plants. Without fertilization, a Aconite-leaf buttercup may show flowers that are less than stellar and may show a decline in overall health and longevity as well.
Fertilization is important to the Aconite-leaf buttercup for several general reasons. Mainly, fertilization helps Aconite-leaf buttercup and other plants by providing key nutrients that help the plant grow both above and below ground. However, the overall fertilization needs for a Aconite-leaf buttercup are relatively low. At times, a Aconite-leaf buttercup may survive well without fertilization. However, annual fertilization is can be very beneficial to the Aconite-leaf buttercup, as it will help keep the plant alive and may also encourage your Aconite-leaf buttercup to create better flowers that last for longer. As such, those interested in helping their Aconite-leaf buttercup look its best should keep up with annual fertilization.
The ideal time to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup is in the late winter to early spring. During that time, your Aconite-leaf buttercup will be exiting its dormant phase and entering a phase of active growth. Fertilization at this time allows the plant to get off to a great start for the season by encouraging healthy growth. While it is generally most advantageous to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup during the early spring, it is also permissible to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup during the fall too. However, summer and winter remain the seasons in which it is not a good idea to feed a Aconite-leaf buttercup.
Nearly any kind of general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced amount of the three main plant nutrients will work well for a Aconite-leaf buttercup. However, there are a few specific nutrient blends that can be even more beneficial. For instance, many gardeners follow the belief that higher volumes of phosphorus make for stronger roots and better flowers. Since Aconite-leaf buttercup is a flowering plant, applying a phosphorus-rich fertilizer may be the best approach. You can use a fertilizer that comes in a granular form or a liquid form as long as there are plenty of nutrients present. Outside of manufactured fertilizers, you can also use more organic means to improve the soil for your Aconite-leaf buttercup. Mainly, compost, manure, and similar materials can go a long way towards creating a healthy growing medium for your Aconite-leaf buttercup.
The most common way to fertilize a Aconite-leaf buttercup is to apply a granular or pellet fertilizer to the soil around your plant. Remember that the ideal time to fertilize is as the plant is exiting its winter dormant growth phase and entering a phase of active growth. In early spring, wait until the plant begins to send shoots through the soil, and then apply your fertilizer. Some people may choose to use a liquid fertilizer instead of a granular one. In that case, you should dilute the fertilizer with water before applying it. Regardless of whether you use granular or liquid fertilizer, it is always best to moisten the soil before, during, and after you apply fertilizer.
As you care for your Aconite-leaf buttercup, recall that this plant does not need a lot of fertilizer each year and will begin to suffer if it receives too much. Firstly, any overfertilized plant runs the risk of fertilizer burn, a condition in which excessive amounts of fertilizer draw nutrients and moisture out of the plant's roots, causing its decline. Also, overfertilizing a Aconite-leaf buttercup is also a way of weakening your plant and making disease far more likely. There is also a potential that overfertilization could cause your Aconite-leaf buttercup to flower less or not at all, which is a significant detriment considering the blooms of this plant are what make it so valuable and sought after by so many gardeners.
You should not fertilize your Aconite-leaf buttercup during any time of the year except during the late winter and early spring. The low fertilization needs of this plant allow a single annual feeding to suffice. Continuing to fertilize throughout spring, summer, and fall can easily lead to overfertilization and all of the complications that can come with it. The only exception is if you did not fertilize in spring, which means that it is permissible to feed this plant in fall. Along with refraining from fertilizing for most of the growing season, there is also no reason to fertilize this plant during the winter. In winter, the Aconite-leaf buttercup will be in a dormant growth phase, meaning that it does not put forth new growth. With that being the case, fertilization during most of the winter is not advisable.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Aconite-leaf buttercup grows best in full sun. It cannot grow without sunlight during the growth period, and won't bloom without enough sunlight. Selecting a sunny location of your garden beds will help you induce early flowering. It can be planted in raised beds if light conditions don't support it well in your outdoor garden.
For indoor cultivation, place on sunny balconies or rooftops, or near windows. In winter, sunlight gradually weakens. You may need to move it to a sunnier place to receive more sun.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Deadhead faded flowers during the active growing season. That encourages more bloom while cutting fresh flowers. When flowering stops and leaves start to yellow and wither, stop watering the plants and allow the leaves to die back fully.
Cut off the entire top of the plant, dig the corms out, and store them in a cool, dry place for the upcoming season. Treat corms with a fungicide solution before storing and planting. Where corms are hardy in the soil, they can be left undisturbed as long as the soil is kept dry during summer. As for potted plants, reserve 3-5 robust flower buds for each plant during the bud stage, and pick the rest.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Aconite-leaf buttercup likes a dry and cool climate but is not resistant to severe cold or heat. The best temperature for growth is around 16 ℃ in the daytime and 8 ℃ at night. It won't grow well if the temperatures between day and night differ too much.
Aconite-leaf buttercup will go dormant in the high temperatures of summer. The temperature in winter should not go lower than 0 ℃. It likes a moist environment, but can't tolerate accumulated water in the root zone. During active plant growth, water 9 to 10 mm weekly to keep the topsoil moist. When the plant is dormant with only the bulb present under the soil, water 7 to 8 mm every two weeks.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Aconite-leaf buttercup likes to grow in well-drained acidic soils, with more nutrients and good air permeability. For potted plants, mix garden soil, leaf mold, and fine sand at a 4:2:1 ratio. The suitable soil pH is 5.8-6.5, which allows the root system to absorb oxygen smoothly and grow well.
For potted plants, use sandy loam that is rich in humus. This kind of soil is rich in nutrients, loose, and aerating, which is beneficial for root development and growth. Soil compaction or poor drainage can result in rotting roots due to waterlogging, so the flowerpot should be changed or the soil improved if plants appear rootbound.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Aconite-leaf buttercup can be propagated by corms, seed, or ramet. Ramet planting is usually done in fall. Dig out the stock plant from the flowerpot, shake the soil from the roots completely, and manually separate the stock plant. Ensure each part has 1-2 new buds and 3-4 small tuberous roots. Place them in 1% potassium permanganate solution for 3-5 minutes to disinfect; then dry and plant them. plant in an open field in fall when the temperature is no higher than 20 ℃. They will germinate in around 20 days.
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Propagation

Only sow Aconite-leaf buttercup seeds in warm weather, preferably during the later weeks of spring after any danger of frost or dropping temperatures has passed. Even in warm climates, ensure the soil is sufficiently warm, as cooler soil can hinder germination and growth. If you want to sow the seeds earlier, you need to do it indoors for successful germination.
To sow Aconite-leaf buttercup in your growing medium, you don't need many extra tools. Simply put on your gardening gloves and get started!
What you will need:
  • Healthy and full seeds, as the germination rate of such seeds will be higher.
  • Growing medium with potting mix soil, divided into rows.
  • Fertilizer or compost.
  • (Optional) A dibbler or stake.
  • A spray bottle to hydrate the soil.
  • (Optional) A piece of plastic film.
Steps:
  1. Prepare the soil: Mix the soil with organic fertilizer. Fully rotted fertilizer is recommended, and its volume should not exceed one quarter of the soil volume when mixing.
  2. Sow the seeds: Sprinkle the seeds onto the soil and cover them afterwards. Alternatively, use a dibbler or stake to pre-dig holes for the seeds, placing about 3 seeds in each mound. The depth of the soil covering the seeds should be about five times the thickness of the seed.
  3. Space the seeds: Leave a 4-6-inch gap between each seed mound.
  4. Water the soil: After planting, water the soil in the container well to provide enough moisture for the seeds to germinate.
  5. Mulch and maintain: Mulch the surface of the container soil to retain moisture and promote seed germination. Use a spray bottle to moisten the soil when it becomes relatively dry. Continue this until the seeds germinate.
Note: Before seeds germinate, they can be kept in a low-light location. However, after germination, it's important to provide adequate light to the plant to prevent excessive growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Always buy healthy, jumbo-size corms, as they yield more branches and flowers. plant 10 to 15 cm apart and bury corms 5 cm below garden soil, with claws facing downward.
Soak corms in water for 12 hours to help them germinate and keep them in controlled temperature for 15 days. Aconite-leaf buttercup can be planted outdoors when sprouting starts. This process initiates earlier flowering than the conventional sowing method. The temperature for planting corms is 10 to 15 ℃; they will germinate in 2 weeks.
Sowing by seed also works in spring or fall. Disinfect the planting medium before spreading it in the bed. Wet the soil and evenly spread seeds after the water permeates. Cover seeds with fine soil and moisten occasionally if needed. It takes about 15-90 days for seeds to germinate, depending on the variety.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Aconite-leaf buttercup?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
Aconite-leaf buttercup rewards the gardener generously when they blossom. Harvest when the buds are colored. Use sharp garden shears to harvest them when the temperature is low in the morning and put them in a vase with clean water promptly to avoid water loss. These beauties may have 5-7 days' vase life.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Aconite-leaf buttercup?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
For aconite-leaf buttercup, the perfect time to transplant is during S2-S3, typically dubbed late spring to early summer. This ensures stronger root system establishment before the colder seasons. Transplant aconite-leaf buttercup in partially shaded areas with moist, well-drained soils. The process should be gentle to lessen root disturbance. Embrace these tips for effective aconite-leaf buttercup transplanting.
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More Info on Aconite-leaf Buttercup Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

plants can wither with the arrival of the summer heat. Use shading net to protect the soil from warming too much, and you may prolong the flowering period.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant requires some care in the spring.

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Every few years, divide large plants at the roots.
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Spring is also the time to sow seeds. Choose a sunny location and cover the seeds with about one inch of soil and water thoroughly.
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When new growth begins emerging, an application of all-purpose, balanced fertilizer will provide the necessary nutrients.
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Don’t forget to water when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight during the day.

The leaves on the plant do not thrive in bright sunshine in the summer.

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Keep container plants in a shaded area.
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Check the soil moisture level and increase watering frequency when rainfall is scarce. The soil may need checking daily to ensure it is not drying out.
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Keep an eye out for slugs, and other garden pests, especially if there is mulch around the plant.
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Cut back any spent flowers and remove any plant debris from the area.
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Continue regular fertilizing to help support fall flowering.

Continue watering and fertilizing your plant as long as it grows during the early fall season.

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Once the plants have entered a dormant stage, you can prune them back down to the ground; then, reduce watering.
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Use a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer regularly until the colder weather causes the plant to go dormant, then stop fertilizing.
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Ensure the plant still has plenty of sun during this time, placing them in locations that have full or partial sunlight.
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At the end of fall, after a hard frost, you can sow the seeds for your plant to propagate more plants.

As this plant goes dormant in cold weather, there’s not much care required for this plant. It's best to provide them with cold protection, however.

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After cutting back the stems, you can cover the beds with tarp or mulch to add a barrier against the chill winter winds and frost.
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Only water indoor or warmer-climate plants once the soil becomes dry to the touch, but for the most part you should leave this plant to itself during this season after providing it some shelter from the cold.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Aconite-leaf buttercup based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Learn More About the Powdery Mildew more
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Powdery Mildew
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Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
  1. If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
  2. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
  3. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
  4. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
  5. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
  6. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
  1. Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
  2. When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
  3. Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
  4. Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
  5. Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
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Aconite-leaf Buttercup and Their Toxicity

* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Toxic to Dogs
Aconite-leaf buttercup can be severely toxic to dogs; you should seek immediate veterinary attention if you believe your dog has eaten or come into contact with a plant of this type. All parts of these plants contain ranunculin, a toxin that is poisonous when swallowed and also can irritate skin, causing redness or itch. Ingestion symptoms ranging from excessive drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, and loss of appetite to paralysis, seizures, jaundice, spasms, collapse, or even death.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
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It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Aconite-leaf Buttercup

Spread
Spread
40 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Plant Height
Plant Height
60 cm
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Common Problems

Can I grow aconite-leaf buttercup in pots?

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Yes, it is very easy to grow in pots. Take a pot of 25 cm and fill it with potting soil containing at least 2/3 compost or coco peat. Bury the corms 5 cm below the potting soil and press the soil gently to release air. Water it immediately. Water again once the corms have sprouted fully.

Why do the leaves of aconite-leaf buttercup turn yellow?

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Several factors are responsible for turning leaves yellow on aconite-leaf buttercup, including nutrient deficiency, especially nitrogen, excessive moisture, low aeration, and environmental stress, such as high soil temperature. If they turn yellow during the active growing season, look for nutrient deficiency and feed your plants a balanced fertilizer.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The Aconite-leaf buttercup, aconite-leaf buttercup, thrives upon receiving a considerable amount of sunlight throughout the day. It's also able to withstand somewhat shaded positions. Its place of origin entails environments abundant in light. Overexposure or lack of exposure may risk the plant's development and health, influencing its growth potential.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Aconite-leaf buttercup thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Aconite-leaf buttercup may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Aconite-leaf buttercup enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Aconite-leaf buttercup thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Aconite-leaf buttercup is native to environments where temperatures range from 41 to 95 °F (5 to 35 ℃). This plant has a preference for cool to temperate climates. Seasonal temperature adjustments may be necessary to mimic its natural habitat.
Regional wintering strategies
Aconite-leaf buttercup has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Aconite-leaf buttercup is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Aconite-leaf buttercup should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Aconite-leaf Buttercup?
For aconite-leaf buttercup, the perfect time to transplant is during S2-S3, typically dubbed late spring to early summer. This ensures stronger root system establishment before the colder seasons. Transplant aconite-leaf buttercup in partially shaded areas with moist, well-drained soils. The process should be gentle to lessen root disturbance. Embrace these tips for effective aconite-leaf buttercup transplanting.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Aconite-leaf Buttercup?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Aconite-leaf Buttercup?
The perfect period to transplanting aconite-leaf buttercup is during late spring and early summer. This time of the year brings ideal, warm temperatures which greatly benefit aconite-leaf buttercup's robust growth. By transplanting during this period, you're aligning with nature's rhythms, allowing aconite-leaf buttercup to establish well and flourish. It's truly a refreshingly satisfying sight as you watch aconite-leaf buttercup's rejuvenation! So, let's plan smart and ensure the best possible start for aconite-leaf buttercup.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Aconite-leaf Buttercup Plants?
Ensure that each aconite-leaf buttercup has plenty of room to grow by spacing them out about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This allows the plants to develop fully and minimises any chance of disease spread.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Aconite-leaf Buttercup Transplanting?
The aconite-leaf buttercup loves fertile, well-drained soil. Before transplanting, enrich the soil with a base fertilizer. Try using compost or aged manure, as they provide great nutrients and improve soil health.
Where Should You Relocate Your Aconite-leaf Buttercup?
Aconite-leaf buttercup needs lots of sunlight, so choose a bright, sunny spot in your garden to transplant. Ideally, this would be a place where it gets at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. Happy gardening!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Aconite-leaf Buttercup?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and aconite-leaf buttercup.
Garden Spade or Shovel
Will be used for digging and moving the plant.
Watering Can or Hose
For watering the aconite-leaf buttercup plant before and after transplanting.
Wheelbarrow or Tarp
To carry the aconite-leaf buttercup and its soil from one location to another.
Root Pruning Shears
To thin out the roots of the aconite-leaf buttercup if necessary before replanting.
How Do You Remove Aconite-leaf Buttercup from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the aconite-leaf buttercup plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the aconite-leaf buttercup plant first to moisten the soil. Turn the pot on its side and tap the edge on a hard surface to loosen the plant. Slowly pull the plant out by grasping the base of the stem, near the soil level.
From Seedling Tray: Water the aconite-leaf buttercup seedlings to moisten the soil. Carefully remove the seedling by pushing up from the bottom of the cell or tilting the tray on the side and gently pulling the plant out.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Aconite-leaf Buttercup
Preparation
Start by digging a hole where the aconite-leaf buttercup is to be transplanted. The hole should be twice as wide as the root ball and as deep.
Placing the Plant
Place the aconite-leaf buttercup in the hole making sure the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface.
Soil Backfilling
Refill the hole with soil, firming it gently around the base of the aconite-leaf buttercup.
Watering
Water the aconite-leaf buttercup generously immediately after planting. The water helps the plant settle in its new location and establish connections with the surrounding soil.
How Do You Care For Aconite-leaf Buttercup After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the aconite-leaf buttercup consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting.
Monitoring
Check on the aconite-leaf buttercup regularly, at least once a week, to detect any signs of transplant stress like wilting or yellowing of leaves.
Prunning
Deadhead spent flowers of aconite-leaf buttercup to promote better bloom production in future.
Protection
Keep the aconite-leaf buttercup protected from strong winds and direct sunlight for a few days post-transplant until it has had the chance to settle into its new home.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Aconite-leaf Buttercup Transplantation.
When is the optimal time to transplant aconite-leaf buttercup?
Transplanting aconite-leaf buttercup will yield the best results during the late spring to early summer season.
How much should aconite-leaf buttercup be spaced out during transplanting?
Ideally, aconite-leaf buttercup should have a spacing of 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) between each plant to ensure optimal growth.
What's the ideal soil for transplanting aconite-leaf buttercup?
Aconite-leaf buttercup thrives best in well-drained soil, rich in organic matter. Avoid excessively wet or dry soils for optimal growth.
What's the best way to prepare the transplant spot for aconite-leaf buttercup?
Enrich the soil with compost or organic matter. Ensure that the hole is twice as wide but just as deep as the root ball of aconite-leaf buttercup.
How should I handle the roots of aconite-leaf buttercup during transplanting?
Handle aconite-leaf buttercup roots gently to avoid damage. If the plant is pot-bound, gently tease the roots apart before planting.
How should I water aconite-leaf buttercup after transplanting?
Water aconite-leaf buttercup thoroughly after transplanting to settle the soil around the roots, but avoid waterlogging.
How much sunlight does transplanted aconite-leaf buttercup need?
Aconite-leaf buttercup generally prefers a location with full to partial sunlight exposure. Shade in the afternoon can be helpful in warmer climates.
What should I do if the transplanted aconite-leaf buttercup wilts?
If aconite-leaf buttercup wilts post-transplanting, it may be in transplant shock. Keep it well-watered and shielded from extreme temperatures until it revives.
How deep should I plant the aconite-leaf buttercup when transplanting?
It's best to plant aconite-leaf buttercup up to the same depth it was growing at previously. Too deep can hinder its growth process.
What is the ideal temperature for transplanting aconite-leaf buttercup?
Aconite-leaf buttercup prefers a mild climate for transplantation. Temperatures between 60-75°F (15-24°C) during the day and 50-60°F (10-15°C) at night are ideal.
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