How to care Red Raspberry

Red raspberry is a perennial forest shrub with elongated, thorny stems. The stems grow rapidly during their first year and bloom in their second year. The plant produces small, aggregate fruit that has a distinct aroma and a sweet-and-sour taste. Raspberry cultivars are hybrids between this red raspberry (Rubus idaeus) and the American species R. strigosus.

Symbolism

Resistance, kindness, healing, protection

Water

Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight

Full sun

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Basic Care Guide

Water

Your red raspberry needs little care once established, so making sure it receives about 2.5 cm water per week, is the only advice on watering. If your plant is grown in containers, you can water more according to the soil condition. Water deep when the topsoil is dry and slightly whitish. Never forget to keep the soil well-drained.

Ground Red raspberry watering

If Red raspberry is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Red raspberry is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Red raspberry continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Red raspberry a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.

When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week.Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Red raspberry generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water. Usually, the Red raspberry will need less water during the winter. Since the Red raspberry will drop their leaves and go dormant, Once your Red raspberry growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Red raspberry can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.

Potted Red raspberry watering

The Red raspberry needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Red raspberry to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.

The Red raspberry likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.

Underwater and overwater

Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have a Red raspberry indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.

An overwatered Red raspberry can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.

Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.

You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Red raspberry outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering.Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.

The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Red raspberry recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .

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What's the best method to water my Red raspberry?

You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Red raspberry prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.

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What should I do if I water Red raspberry too much/too little?

An overwatered Red raspberry can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.

The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Red raspberry recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .

Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Red raspberry indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.

Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.

You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Red raspberry outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.

How often should I water my Red raspberry?

The Red raspberry likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.

Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Red raspberry generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.

You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.

How much water do I need to give my Red raspberry?

The Red raspberry generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.

If Red raspberry is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Red raspberry is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Red raspberry continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Red raspberry a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.

Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Red raspberry according to different seasons or climates?

The Red raspberry needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Red raspberry to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.

Usually, the Red raspberry will need less water during the winter. Since the Red raspberry will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Red raspberry growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Red raspberry can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.

After the spring, you can cultivate your Red raspberry and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.

When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.

It's always best to water your Red raspberry’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Red raspberry’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.

Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.

What should I be careful with when I water my Red raspberry in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?

If planting in the ground, Red raspberry mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Red raspberry in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.

The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.

Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.

Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Red raspberry begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.

Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.

Why is watering my Red raspberry important?

Watering the Red raspberry helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.

The Red raspberry thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.

If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.

Fertilizer

At the pre-planting stage, you can prepare the soil by fertilizing with a balanced fertilizer (N-P-K: 10-10-10). After planting your red raspberry, the best care you can give to it is to spread a mulch at the base of the row each year, which works similarly with slow-release fertilizer. You can do this every early spring or late fall. During growing season and fruiting season, you can also apply some balanced fertilizers for fruiting plants once every two to three months. Fertilizing your pot plants more or less the same as with your garden ones.

Red raspberry is generally grown in order to produce edible fruit, and requires ample nutrients to be able to yield the most fruit with the best flavor. Without enough nutrients, the leaves and flowers may be underdeveloped, and the Red raspberry fails to thrive overall. This is why many gardeners prefer to fertilize.

The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Red raspberry some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit.

Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.

The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Red raspberry energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.You can continue to feed Red raspberry during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.

Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal. Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Red raspberry you are growing.

Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.

It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Red raspberry may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Red raspberry will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.

Avoid fertilizing Red raspberry at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Red raspberry should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler. Finally, remember that Red raspberry can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.

Why do I need to fertilize my Red raspberry?

The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Red raspberry some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit. Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.

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When is the best time to fertilize my Red raspberry?

The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Red raspberry energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.

You can continue to feed Red raspberry during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.

When should I avoid fertilizing my Red raspberry?

Avoid fertilizing Red raspberry at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.

Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Red raspberry should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.

Finally, remember that Red raspberry can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.

What type of fertilizer does my Red raspberry need?

Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal.

Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.

How do I fertilize my Red raspberry?

Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Red raspberry you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Red raspberry, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial, especially for fruit trees. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Note that a Red raspberry should not be fertilized for the first few years.

Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.

What happens if I fertilize my Red raspberry too much?

It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Red raspberry may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Red raspberry will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.

If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Red raspberry to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.

Sunlight

Although you can find some Rubus species under the forest canopy, red raspberry loves sunlight. Full sun or partial shade (6-8 hours of sunshine) will be the best for it to thrive. Avoid too crowded bush to allow ample sunlight and air movement, which will prevent your plant from diseases.

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How much/long should Red raspberry get sunlight per day for healthy growth?

For healthy growth, make sure that Red raspberry receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.

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What type of sunlight does Red raspberry need?

Red raspberry does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.

Can sunlight damage Red raspberry? How to protect Red raspberry from the sun and heat damage?

Red raspberry planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Red raspberry during extreme weather events.

Does Red raspberry need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Red raspberry from the sun?

While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Red raspberry, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.

If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Red raspberry to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.

To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.

What will happen if Red raspberry gets inadequate sunlight?

When Red raspberry receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Red raspberry receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.

Does Red raspberry need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?

Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Red raspberry and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Red raspberry fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.

Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Red raspberry?

Recently transplanted Red raspberry will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Red raspberry drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.

Red raspberry that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.

Pruning

Pruning is important for red raspberry growers. Prune all canes that bore fruit this year down to the bottom right after harvest. All first-year canes should be cut about half to stimulate lateral growth from the side every late winter or early spring. Remove all suckers and trim overcrowded canes. Red raspberry grown in patches must be pruned to ensure that individual canes are not touching to avoid disease infections. Be sure to remove any thinned or pruned canes from the field because old canes left on the ground can harbor disease.

Is pruning necessary for my Red raspberry?

Pruning is a very important part of Red raspberry care and maintenance. Pruning off branches that have dried out and overlapped can increase the space for other branches to grow and help the plant to grow better. Another important reason why Red raspberry needs to be pruned is to encourage fruit production. Pruning your Red raspberry will give you the opportunity to have a closer look at your plant and remove any damaged, diseased, or dead growth.

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When is the best time to prune my Red raspberry?

If it is only a small pruning, cutting off diseased or yellowing leaves, which can be done any time when the plant is growing. If you want to prune it heavily, you need to do it in winter. When pruning, you need to prune off crossed and parallel branches. Prune back any branches that are out of your desired growth range. Also prune off any branches that are dry or diseased to increase the space for new branches to grow, which will help promote flowering and fruiting.

How can I prune my Red raspberry?

The method of pruning your Red raspberry you should choose will also depend on which type of fruit-bearing Red raspberry you have. In all cases, you will need a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears. If you want to prune it heavily, you need to do it in winter. When pruning, you need to prune off crossed and parallel branches. Prune back any branches that are out of your desired growth range. Also prune off any branches that are dry or diseased to increase the space for new branches to grow, which will help promote flowering and fruiting.

What should I do after pruning my Red raspberry?

Once you have pruned your Red raspberry, a good practice is to take the time and look for any suckering plants. If you find suckering plants, either remove them and dispose of them or replant them in line with your other Red raspberry. This is a good way to keep a handle on your plants and not let them take over your whole garden. If you prune while Red raspberry is in the growing phase, you need to protect the wounds from water when watering until they heal.

Are there any tips for pruning my Red raspberry?

It is recommended to wear heavy gloves when pruning because the bushes can cut your hands. If the plant is growing wildly and is out of control, you can prune off the top third, but this may affect the flowering and fruiting in the coming year.

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

As a large genus, Rubus has a wide distribution range which means you are always likely to find a proper species or cultivar that grows well in your garden. Generally, Rubus species flourish in temperate zones, and adaptable to slightly harsh conditions. Select cultivars that may thrive in your garden, thus the preferable climate will encourage them to bear more edible fruits. Red raspberry prefers moist to slightly dry conditions, so it is important to avoid waterlogging.

What is the optimal temperature for Red raspberry?

The best temperature for Red raspberry to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:

Perfect：65~80℉(18~27℃)

Highest：85~95℉(30~35℃)

Lowest：-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below

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Should I adjust the temperature for Red raspberry during different growing phases?

Research shows that Red raspberry will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.

How can I keep Red raspberry warm in cold seasons?

Red raspberry can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.

What damage will Red raspberry suffer if the temperature is too high/low?

Greater harm will come to Red raspberry if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.

If Red raspberry gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.

If Red raspberry gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.

What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Red raspberry?

Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Red raspberry healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.

How can I keep Red raspberry warm without a heat pad?

Due to the cold tolerance of Red raspberry, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.

How can I provide Red raspberry with an adequate temperature condition?

To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Red raspberry in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Red raspberry is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.

How can I save Red raspberry from temperature damage?

During the summer or times of high heat, give Red raspberry extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.

Should I adjust the temperature for Red raspberry in different seasons?

Red raspberry is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.

Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Red raspberry?

If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Red raspberry in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.

Soil

Red raspberry is not picky about soil, as long as the soil is slightly acidic and well-drained. The ideal soil pH range for it is 5.5–7 while a few species and cultivars of Rubus may tolerate slightly alkaline soil as well. Rich loamy soil mixing with some sandy soil can be a good option. Always remember to avoid the heavy clay soil because it can become soggy easily. Hilled soils that promote drainage can also be taken into consideration, instead of wet, flat field.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Both roots and stem cuttings can be planted to propagate new individual plants. Because of this, make sure to purchase plants from a reputable nursery, otherwise diseases are spread everywhere with your new individuals. You can do root cutting in late winter to ensure the threat of hard frosts is gone, or stem cutting in early summer. The operations are the same. Cut a 10 cm long root or stem and plant it into the moist, clean soil. Keep the soil moist and it will take 2-4 weeks to root.

If you try to grow red raspberry from seeds, remember that you must recreate a harsh environment such as exists in the birds’ crop (digestive tract) where sand, pebbles, and seeds churn. Therefore, you must scrap the seed with a file or sandpaper to open up the tough seed coat and allow it to sprout. Sow in early fall in the ground and some may need cold treatment at 3 ℃ for a month before sowing at the beginning of the following year. There is no specific care required after sowing and you can transplant larger seedlings where they can grow better.

Red raspberry provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Red raspberry grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Red raspberry has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Red raspberry. For a simpler procedure, hardwood cuttings is a good choice. Red raspberry can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful.Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Red raspberry, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.

Sharp garden pruners
Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix

Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Red raspberry into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Red raspberry there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Red raspberry around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Red raspberry to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Red raspberry is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!

Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
Trowel for covering the plant
Growing medium to cover the plant

Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.

Generally, red raspberry is planted with saplings that are easily purchased from nursery or gardening store. Avoid red raspberry collected in the forest as diseases are a big problem for wild Rubus.

plant your red raspberry in winter or early spring in your garden. Red raspberry grows wild where there is much sunlight from above and a wealth of leaf litter, otherwise known as mulch or organic matter in the soil below. Because of this, your planting site is recommended to have ample sunlight and you should have organic matter such as grass clippings readily available. Keep your plants far away from any wild brambles to keep them healthy. Also, plant your red raspberry in separate rows. The optimum spacing can be achieved by creating rows about 3 m apart with plants 60 cm apart within each row. Set a trellis on each side and tie the canes onto the trellis line or wire.

Red raspberry will spread both rapidly and at long distances. If you do not want it everywhere in your garden, regularly prune it or grow it in containers. You are recommended to find a prickle-free and small variety to plant in pot, which may be handy for you. Use a shallow but large container for it because its roots spread shallowly outward. Potting soil and sunny place are standards for red raspberry.

Taste the fruit and it will tell you when it is time to harvest. Ripe fruits will be sweet and juicy. If they are still sour or tart, let them ripen a bit longer. Usually you can start harvesting from mid-summer till mid-fall, according to varieties. You should harvest the fruits when all dews or raindrops are dry to prevent molds. They have a short shelf life, so refrigerate them after harvest without washing. As for some sour species, process them into delicious jams or jellies.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions

For those cultivars grown where is slightly beyond their tolerance, winter protection may be needed to fight against the frost. Some cultivars may need more water during the harsh period in mid-summer, sometimes you may need to water daily.

Summer

Fall

Winter

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

1

A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.

2

Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.

3

Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.

4

Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.

5

Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

1

Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.

2

Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.

3

Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.

4

Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

1

Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.

2

At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.

3

If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Red raspberry based on 10 million real cases

Leaf beetles

Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Brown spot

This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Caterpillars

Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Plant dried up

The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

Black spot

Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Leaf rot

This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

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More About Red Raspberry

Plant Type

Shrub, Vine

Lifespan

Perennial, Annual, Biennial

Spread

1.5 m

Bloom Time

Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer

Flower Color

White

Leaf Color

Green

Flower Size

1 to 1.5 cm

Plant Height

1.5 to 3 m

Name story

Red raspberry

The word “raspberry” is derived from “raspise”, from the mid-15th century meaning a sweet rose-colored wine. It is also derived from the Anglo-Latin name “vinum raspeys”. Furthermore, it is also derived from the word “raspoie” from the Germanic origin meaning “thicket”. According to the Anglo-Saxon language, its name means “rough berry”, which might be influenced by its rough appearance. Before it matures, the berries appear to have an outer layer of bristles which then becomes bumpy when it is fully mature. The berries also turn bright red once it matures. Based on this characteristic, it is often called the red raspberry.

Usages

Garden Use

Red raspberry is a perennial shrub commonly found in gardens. It is prized for its deep green foliage, pretty blossoms, and 'fuzzy' fruit. Its prickly leaves and thorns make it suitable as a barrier and the free-standing shrubs can serve as screens. Red raspberry is appropriate for Pollinator gardens. Plant with Rosemary or Mint to deter unwanted pests.

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Common Problems

Why do my berries vary in color?

No panic! If you find a range of yellow, pink, bright red, or dark purple (almost black) fruits, do not be alarmed or think the plant is sick. These are natural variations in color according to pigment levels. These colors can be naturally accentuated by plant breeders to give fun and lively colors in the garden.

Why are some berries rotting?

There can be many fungal and bacterial diseases that infect your red raspberry with a symptom of rotten berries. Including Grey Mold and Anthracnose Fruit Rot, fungal infection can be controlled by regular pruning, avoiding canes and leaves overlapping, and spraying copper oxychloride-based fungicides.

Why is my red raspberry not bearing berries?

Notice that red raspberry starts to produce fruits from at least 2 years old. If you think there are diseases, Blackberry Bush Viruses for blackberries can be the problem. These viruses cannot be cured so remove all infected plants to save the rest. Pests such as spider mites and aphids chewing and sucking on your plant can be the problems as well. Try to introduce natural enemies or use some pesticides (be careful with pollinators!). If your red raspberry is not suffering from other symptoms of pests and disease, nor lacking pollinators, then your soil can be too poor to bear fruit. Give some balanced fertilizer specially designed for fruits to your plant will help.

Plants with Same Care Needs

Poison ivy

In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.

Bloom Time

Mid spring

Garden phlox

The garden phlox is a flowering plant that is native to the United States. The name, phlox, comes from the Latin for "flame," reflecting its bright colors. Garden phlox flowers can become important food sources for insects and hummingbirds.

Bloom Time

Mid spring

Ground ivy

Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is a perennial evergreen trailing plant, often found in grasslands and woodlands. Saxon peoples once spread the plant, but it has become invasive in some parts of the world now. The fast-growing ground ivy can be toxic to horses but generally cannot harm other animals or humans.

Bloom Time

Mid spring

Persian silk tree

Albizia julibrissin, colloquially known as persian silk tree, is a deciduous plant with characteristic pink, fuzzy inflorescences. Persian silk tree is mainly cultivated for decorative purposes. Its flowers have a mild, sweet smell and are often visited by butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.

Bloom Time

Mid spring

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How to care Red Raspberry

Symbolism

Basic Care Guide

Water

Water

Never miss a care task again!

Fertilizer

Fertilizer

Sunlight

Know the light your plants really get.

Pruning

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Soil

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Propagation

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions

Summer

Fall

Winter

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

Common Pests & Diseases

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

More About Red Raspberry

Name story

Usages

Find your perfect green friends.

Common Problems

Why do my berries vary in color?

Why are some berries rotting?

Why is my red raspberry not bearing berries?

Plants with Same Care Needs

Botanist in your pocket

App

How to care Red Raspberry

Symbolism

Basic Care Guide

Water

Water

Never miss a care task again!

Fertilizer

Fertilizer

Sunlight

Know the light your plants really get.

Pruning

Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Soil

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Propagation

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions

Summer

Fall

Winter

Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.

You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.

While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.

Common Pests & Diseases

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

More About Red Raspberry

Name story

Usages

Find your perfect green friends.

Common Problems

Why do my berries vary in color?

Why are some berries rotting?

Why is my red raspberry not bearing berries?

Plants with Same Care Needs