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FAQ

How to Care for Purple Willow

Purple willow (Salix purpurea) grows natively in parts of Europe, North America, and Asia. Its young shoots are purplish initially but turn light gray to grayish-brown with age. The twigs and stems of this variety of willow are bendable and very useful for creating baskets and furniture. A dense root system also helps in controlling bank erosion.
symbolism

Symbolism

Strongly healing feminine aspects, mourning
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Purple willow
Purple willow
Purple willow
Purple willow
Purple willow
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Purple willow?

The purple willow likes water. Once short of water, it will develop yellow leaves and withered branches. In the summer months in particular, seedlings and new plants should be watered on a daily basis. However, mature plants will naturally have a certain amount of drought resistance. According to the drought of the soil, plants are usually watered at about 5 pm every day. If there are many rainy days in its growing season, the soil will already be rich in water, meaning that watering will not be required. If the weather is dry, watering daily can be beneficial. The roots of mature plants have strong tolerance to water-logging, so it is generally not necessary to drain away excess water.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What's the best method to water my Purple willow?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Purple willow prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Purple willow too much/too little?
An overwatered Purple willow can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Purple willow recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Purple willow indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Purple willow outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Purple willow?
The Purple willow likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Purple willow generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Purple willow?
The Purple willow generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Purple willow is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Purple willow is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Purple willow continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Purple willow a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Purple willow according to different seasons or climates?
The Purple willow needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Purple willow to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Purple willow will need less water during the winter. Since the Purple willow will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Purple willow growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Purple willow can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Purple willow and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Purple willow’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Purple willow’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Purple willow in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Purple willow mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Purple willow in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Purple willow begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Purple willow important?
Watering the Purple willow helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Purple willow thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Purple willow?

Generally speaking, in the early stage of purple willow growth, a light fertilizer can be applied 4 or 5 times. A nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate and carbamide, is mainly applied in the growth period. Generally speaking, mature plants do not need too much fertilizer, but some potassic fertilizer, such as calcium phosphate and plant ash, can also be applied appropriately. If a mature purple willow is planted in fertile soil, its leaves will be a healthy green. Fertilization is also not needed if nearby lawns are being regularly fertilized.

Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Purple willow since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Purple willow plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Purple willow outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Purple willow you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Purple willow be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Purple willow is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Purple willow. Doing so will prompt your Purple willow to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Purple willow is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Purple willow all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Purple willow to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Purple willow will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Purple willow be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Purple willow is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Purple willow likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Purple willow. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Purple willow may also need
To fertilize your Purple willow using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Purple willow, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Purple willow. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Purple willow. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Purple willow may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Purple willow can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Purple willow to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Purple willow.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Purple willow. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Purple willow will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Purple willow will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Purple willow?
Regardless of which kind of Purple willow you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Purple willow be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Purple willow is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Purple willow. Doing so will prompt your Purple willow to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Purple willow?
The first time that you should fertilize your Purple willow is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Purple willow all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Purple willow to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Purple willow will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Purple willow be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Purple willow?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Purple willow. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Purple willow will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Purple willow will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Purple willow need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Purple willow is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Purple willow likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Purple willow. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Purple willow?
To fertilize your Purple willow using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Purple willow, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Purple willow. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
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What happens if I fertilize my Purple willow too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Purple willow. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Purple willow may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Purple willow can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Purple willow to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Purple willow.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Purple willow?

The purple willow likes light; full sun is conducive to the photosynthesis of its leaves. The best foliage color appears when there is plenty of light, so plant it in an open spot in the garden that ensures at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. However, it will also grow well in partial shade.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How much/long should Purple willow get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Purple willow receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Purple willow need?
Purple willow does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Purple willow? How to protect Purple willow from the sun and heat damage?
Purple willow planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Purple willow during extreme weather events.
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Does Purple willow need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Purple willow from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Purple willow, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Purple willow to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Purple willow gets inadequate sunlight?
When Purple willow receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Purple willow receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Purple willow need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Purple willow and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Purple willow fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Purple willow?
Recently transplanted Purple willow will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Purple willow drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Purple willow that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Purple willow?

The purple willow grows fast under suitable conditions. Timely trimming of residual, dead and side branches can increase air permeability and light transmittance, so as to avoid providing breeding places for diseases and insect pests. For seedlings and newly-born willows, one main branch should be selected and kept during pruning, while any redundant lateral branches and buds should be trimmed, so that the main stem can grow thick in an upward direction.
For head-removed plants, main branches and new buds in 3-4 directions should be reserved consciously according to personal preference in the cross section, so as to maintain a more graceful shape. Trimming incisions should be smooth and coated with tung oil - this will protect the incision and encourage faster healing. Pruning is best carried out in early spring, late fall and winter.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my Purple willow?
Purple willow does not need a lot of maintenance including pruning, which is part of what makes it such a popular choice. Most often, Purple willow is pruned to remove damaged or dead branches. You may also choose to remove some branches to improve the appearance of the Purple willow or to improve clearance under it. If there are branches that are very crowded together, air flow may be restricted. Any branches that are rubbing together could wear away the bark and allow disease or insects to penetrate the Purple willow, so those branches are also good candidates for pruning.
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When is the best time to prune my Purple willow?
Removing large branches (structural pruning) from the Purple willow is best done during the dormant period in the winter, while late winter or early spring is the best time for minor maintenance pruning. The ideal timing is when the Purple willow has developed buds but the buds have not opened yet. This timing makes it easy for you to find which branches are not productive and should be removed, since those branches won’t have any buds. Pruning at the beginning of the growing season allows the Purple willow to have the whole summer to devote to putting new growth into the remaining branches, flowers, and leaves. You can also prune it into a shape you like, but don't prune over 1/4 of the healthy branches and leaves of the Purple willow. Over pruning will hinder the normal and healthy growth of this plant. Please make sure that the cuts are clean and tidy. When Purple willow grows, if there is aging yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, you need to prune the bottom of the yellowing aging leaves and leaves with spots caused by the infection of disease. Pruning can effectively reduce the infection of disease. Even if the number of leaves with infections is relatively large, you should not prune more than 30% of the total number of leaves to avoid affecting the growth of Purple willow.
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How can I prune my Purple willow?
The first step is deciding where to cut. It is a good idea to identify which branches you want to prune before taking other steps so you know which tools you need and have a plan from the beginning. You may want to mark branches with string or tape so you don’t forget where you had planned to prune each branch. After you have decided where to cut, prepare the tools. Many Purple willow branches are thin and delicate, so you may be able to use regular pruning shears. If there are larger branches, you should use loppers or a pruning saw. A pole saw may be necessary if the branches are higher up. Your cutting implement should be sterilized with disinfectant or a diluted bleach solution before use and between cuts to avoid introducing pathogens to the wound when pruning. Also be sure to wear protective gear to avoid injuring yourself during this process. Removing large branches (structural pruning) from your Purple willow is best done during the dormant period in the winter, while late winter or early spring is the best time for minor maintenance pruning. The ideal timing is when the Purple willow has developed buds but the buds have not opened yet. This timing makes it easy for you to find which branches are not productive and should be removed, since those branches won’t have any buds. Pruning at the beginning of the growing season allows the plant to have the whole summer to devote to putting new growth into the remaining branches, flowers, and leaves. You can also prune it into a shape you like, but don't prune over 1/4 of the healthy branches and leaves of the Purple willow. Over pruning will hinder the normal and healthy growth of this plant. Please make sure that the cuts are clean and tidy. When Purple willow grows, if there is aging yellowing leaves and diseased leaves, you need to prune the bottom of the yellowing aging leaves and leaves with spots caused by the infection of disease. Pruning can effectively reduce the infection of disease. Even if the number of leaves with infections is relatively large, you should not prune more than 30% of the total number of leaves to avoid affecting the growth of Purple willow.
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What should I keep in mind when pruning my Purple willow?
Remove no more than 30% of the volume of the Purple willow when pruning. Pruning too much at once can leave the Purple willow vulnerable to shock. This plant does not tolerate being cut back severely and may not recover. Don’t prune young Purple willow unless it is to remove a dead or damaged branch. In between cuts, step back and check the appearance of the Purple willow and be sure that you are satisfied with the progress. If you trim too much at once, there’s no way to restore the cut branches, so be conservative with your approach. One of the charms of Purple willow is its graceful, natural appearance, so you may want to embrace some of the “imperfections” inherent to how it grows.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Purple willow?

The purple willow grows better in a temperate environment, but can tolerate both high and low temperatures. It prefers damp areas, but does have both flooding and drought tolerance. It grows best in a temperate range of 15 to 25 ℃, but can withstand low temperature conditions of about -46 ℃.
The purple willow mostly grows in wetlands beside the banks of rivers. Short-term flooding will not lead to its death. The purple willow is also often planted in water tanks or vases indoors, but it needs to be regularly provided with appropriate amounts of nutrient solution to meet the necessary nutrient requirements for growth. At the same time, any impurities should be limited as much as possible, and the pH of the water should be alkalescent to avoid the plant blackening and spoiling.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Purple willow?
As a cool-weather plant, Purple willow has a specific temperature range you can keep it in to thrive. For Purple willow to grow as well as possible, you can keep them between 65-75℉(18-25℃). Purple willow can handle temperatures outside of this range, but whenever possible, try to keep the area you grow them in within several degrees of these temperature limits.
As for the upper and lower limits of what Purple willow can withstand, that would fall between 75-85℉(25-30℃) on the higher end and 5℉(-15℃) on the lower end. As Purple willow prefers cooler temperatures, the higher temperature range is more important to avoid. Going into the higher end temperatures can restrict growth, and having Purple willow above 85℉(30℃) for long periods of time can result in damage and eventually death.
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Does Purple willow require different temperatures for different growing phases?
For each growing phase of Purple willow, temperatures should be kept within the optimal range of 65-75℉(18-25℃). Purple willow can tolerate lower temperatures better than high ones, so it won’t particularly hinder growth if your growing area gets as cold as 5℉(-15℃). Below that, however, can start to slow down Purple willow growth, so if you continue to grow your plants into winter, make sure to keep the room above that temperature.
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Three tips for keeping Purple willow temperature under control
Tip #1: Watch for the Signs of Heat Damage
If Purple willow overheats, there may be warning signs before it begins to die off. First, the leaves may begin to brown, then branches could begin to fall off. This is because the branches themselves are dying as the tree pulls moisture back towards its center of mass. Make sure to keep temperatures lower, and water your Purple willow more frequently if they are exposed to heat.
Tip #2: Don’t Let Purple willow Get Too Cold
While Purple willow does prefer cooler environments, letting the temperatures drop too fast can begin to cause freeze damage. If your growing area dips fast below 5℉(-15℃), the water in your Purple willow can begin to freeze. This causes the cell walls to burst and the bark to crack. This could slow growth significantly, and if temperatures don’t increase, may begin to cause parts of Purple willow to die.
Tip #3: Use Shade and Ventilation to Help Keep Temperatures at the Right Level
If you find that Purple willow is starting to overheat, you can use a combination of shade and ventilation to help bring temperatures back down. If you don’t have access to an air conditioning unit or fans, shade and ventilation are a good cost effective way to bring temperatures back into the optimal range. Once temperatures are corrected, though, make sure to let your plants get sunlight. Purple willow needs a lot of sun to grow properly, so while shade could work in the short term for temperature correction, Purple willow should not be left in the shade for too long.
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Does Purple willow need different temperatures for different seasons?
The only time you need to worry about different temperatures in different seasons is if you intend to grow Purple willow outside. In that case, you’ll want to watch your outdoor thermometer during the prime growing seasons, spring and early summer. It's especially important that the temperatures do not exceed 85℉(30℃), as this can damage and eventually kill Purple willow.
If you do plant them inside to help maintain the best temperature, make sure that the space has ample sunlight. Purple willow needs a lot of sun to grow, preferring full sun to partial shade levels of sun exposure. Be careful that the level of sunlight doesn’t raise the temperature as well. Direct sunlight is important, but too much combined with high heat will begin to damage Purple willow.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for Purple willow?
The best way to maintain the right temperature for Purple willow is to grow them within a climate-controlled environment. Because Purple willow prefers cooler conditions, you’ll want to make sure the room you choose has air conditioning or fans, as well as a way to monitor the temperature. Check the temperature once or twice a day, making sure that it is between 65-75℉(18-25℃). If it isn’t, adjust your climate control settings to make sure that the temperatures sit within that range.
If you intend to grow Purple willow outdoors, you’ll want to do it in the spring and early summer. It can be much harder to maintain that optimal temperature range outside, so if you want to facilitate maximum growth for Purple willow, it's usually best to have them outdoors.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Purple willow?

The purple willow is a highly adaptable plant with low soil requirements. Although it prefers moisture-retentive soils, it will grow well in a variety of soil types, and isn't fussy about pH. Good drainage is important in clay soil, otherwise the roots may rot, so pay attention to this during the plant's growth period.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Purple willow?

Seedlings can be purchased and easily transplanted, or you can grow them yourself by way of cuttage. The best time for transplanting is after the soil has thawed in early spring. care should be taken at the early stage of transplanting to ensure a good survival rate. If the transplanting seedlings were purchased, sufficient water should be provided, and an appropriate base fertilizer should be applied according to the soil conditions. Too much fertilizer is unnecessary for the seedlings, so fertilization in its later growth stage should not be in high frequency. At the same time, watering shouldn't be too frequent, but this does depend on the dryness or wetness of the soil. Good drainage should also be maintained to avoid rotten roots.
Early spring is the best time for taking cuttings. plants with faster growth, fewer diseases and pests, and a beautiful natural shape should be selected as stock plants, so that the characteristics of the stock plants can be retained to a greater extent, meaning a better survival rate for the seedlings. Take any cuttings before the plant buds in early spring.
Cut a branch around 15 to 17 cm in length, making the cut oblique to increase water absorption capacity and survival rate. Soaking it in water for several hours can also increase the rooting rate. Insert the branch into the soil at a depth of about 1/3 of its length, and provide sufficient water. Keep the soil moist at all times before it buds.
After budding, the leaf buds at the lower parts of the branch should be removed, and only the buds at the top need to be kept for growing. At the same time, attention should also be paid to weeding and loosening the soil during this period, to prevent weeds from competing for limited resources.

Propagation

Purple willow provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Purple willow grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Purple willow has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Purple willow. For a simpler procedure, hardwood cuttings is a good choice. Purple willow can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful.Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Purple willow, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Purple willow into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Purple willow there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Purple willow around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Purple willow to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Purple willow is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!
  1. Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
  2. Trowel for covering the plant
  3. Growing medium to cover the plant
Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Purple willow?

In general, the purple willow has strong reproductive and adaptive abilities, so seedlings are commonly sold on the market. In addition, the plant can also be reproduced by the use of layering or cuttage. These two methods don't take much time and can retain the plant's original excellent properties to a great extent. With the plant's seeds being so small and light, sowing is considered to be a troublesome way to breed the purple willow.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Purple willow?

The wood of the purple willow is soft, and its branches are slender enough to be weaved into baskets, crates, bags, furniture and safety helmets. Its bark also contains a tannin that is used for industrial and medicinal products. Many animals often feed on young shoots and leaves, while the leaves of a few specific species can be used to feed livestock or tussah.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Purple willow?

The best time to transplant purple willow is from late winter to early spring (S1-S2), as it conveniently coincides with the plant's dormant season, promoting better root establishment. A moist, well-drained location with full sun to partial shade is optimal. Remember to water thoroughly post-transplant to alleviate stress.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
care_scenes

More Info on Purple Willow Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Purple willow thrives on generous amounts of light exposure. Optimal health is achieved under the sun's continuous embrace, yet it can manage with only a portion of solar visuals throughout the day. Over or under exposure to sunlight may stunt its growth or cause less vigorous development.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-30 - 35 ℃
The purple willow grows natively in temperate regions and can withstand a wide range of temperatures, from 32 ℉ (0 ℃) to 90 ℉ (32 ℃). In the summer, it prefers cooler temperatures, around 60 to 70 ℉ (16 to 21 ℃), and in the winter it can tolerate temperatures as low as 32 ℉ (0 ℃). It's recommended to water the plant regularly in the summer to help it adjust to higher temperatures.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
10-15 feet
The best time to transplant purple willow is from late winter to early spring (S1-S2), as it conveniently coincides with the plant's dormant season, promoting better root establishment. A moist, well-drained location with full sun to partial shade is optimal. Remember to water thoroughly post-transplant to alleviate stress.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Winter
Characteristic for its cascading branches and narrow, bluish-green leaves, purple willow thrives with regular pruning. To maintain shape and vigor, prune in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Remove dead or damaged wood, thin overgrown areas, and shape as desired. Pruning encourages a dense habit and may enhance flowering or stem color, important for purple willow's ornamental value. Sterilize tools to prevent disease spread and avoid excessive cutting to ensure plant health.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The purple willow is often considered a harmonious addition to spaces facing North. As north corresponds to the element of water in Feng Shui, this plant, with its flexibility and water-reliant growth, echoes a beneficial balance. Yet, it's subject to individual interpretation and placement strategy.
Fengshui Details
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

During winter pruning, plants with strong vitality and growth will need more attention, while the weaker ones should be pruned to a relatively smaller extent. Focus should be placed on trimming any vigorously growing side and lateral branches from their bases. In the summer, focus on trimming the more vigorously growing branches, and, at the same time, retain those weaker branches and adjust the tree's shape to enhance its beauty and plumpness.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

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1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.
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2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.
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3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.
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Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.
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5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.

Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

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Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.
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Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.
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Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.
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4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.

Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

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Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.
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You can plant new shrubs during this season.
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Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.
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Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.
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Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.

While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

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In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.
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Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Purple willow based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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More About Purple Willow

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
4 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
Green
Yellow
Silver
Plant Height
Plant Height
8 m

Usages

Garden Use
A very pretty evergreen shrub with bi-colored leaves that flutter in the wind, purple willow is popular in gardens for its good looks, hardiness, and tolerance of cold and poor soils. It is most commonly used in hedging, as a screen, or as part of a water-loving planting in boggy areas, at pondsides, or at streamsides.
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Common Problems

How can I solve root damage to the ground caused by my purple willow?

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Its roots are invasive and can stretch to three times the length of the trunk to the crown. These roots are usually located near the ground surface, which may lead to uneven lawns and cracks in sidewalks and terraces. The roots may also damage underground sewage pipes and pipelines. Serious problems will require offending roots to be cut off, and then a root barrier can then be added to prevent the roots from spreading in that direction again.
A deep and wide pit should be dug when planting the purple willow to prevent future damage to the ground. plant the tree in the hole and make sure it is straight. Don't add fertilizer into the hole, as this will make the roots round, instead of allowing them to spread. When filling the soil in, add 2 gallons of water halfway through, and then fill the hole with the remaining soil and firmly tamp it.

How is the problem of fragile wood and damaged branches solved?

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Like most fast-growing trees, the purple willow has fragile wood, especially those that are growing in areas with cold winters, ice storms and strong winds. The solution is to trim the trees each year to remove dead or damaged wood, as well as vertically growing branches. Its whip-shaped, long branches are easily broken in the wind and will produce a large number of fallen leaves, so should be properly trimmed.
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Purple willow
Purple willow
Purple willow
Purple willow
Purple willow

How to Care for Purple Willow

Purple willow (Salix purpurea) grows natively in parts of Europe, North America, and Asia. Its young shoots are purplish initially but turn light gray to grayish-brown with age. The twigs and stems of this variety of willow are bendable and very useful for creating baskets and furniture. A dense root system also helps in controlling bank erosion.
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Symbolism

Strongly healing feminine aspects, mourning
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water Purple willow?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The purple willow likes water. Once short of water, it will develop yellow leaves and withered branches. In the summer months in particular, seedlings and new plants should be watered on a daily basis. However, mature plants will naturally have a certain amount of drought resistance. According to the drought of the soil, plants are usually watered at about 5 pm every day. If there are many rainy days in its growing season, the soil will already be rich in water, meaning that watering will not be required. If the weather is dry, watering daily can be beneficial. The roots of mature plants have strong tolerance to water-logging, so it is generally not necessary to drain away excess water.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize Purple willow?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Generally speaking, in the early stage of purple willow growth, a light fertilizer can be applied 4 or 5 times. A nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate and carbamide, is mainly applied in the growth period. Generally speaking, mature plants do not need too much fertilizer, but some potassic fertilizer, such as calcium phosphate and plant ash, can also be applied appropriately. If a mature purple willow is planted in fertile soil, its leaves will be a healthy green. Fertilization is also not needed if nearby lawns are being regularly fertilized.
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Fertilizer

It can be somewhat easy for a novice gardener to overlook Purple willow since these plants don't often produce showy flowers. However, the incredible leaf shapes and textures of Purple willow plants can make them as ornamentally appealing as any other plant in your garden. Growing Purple willow outdoors in your garden is not extremely difficult to do, but there are some insights that you must keep in mind while you care for this plant. Within your maintenance routine, correct fertilization will be crucial.
Regardless of which kind of Purple willow you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Purple willow be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests. The foliage of your Purple willow is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Purple willow. Doing so will prompt your Purple willow to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
The first time that you should fertilize your Purple willow is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Purple willow all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough. It is also beneficial to many Purple willow to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Purple willow will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Purple willow be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Purple willow is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Purple willow likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well. However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Purple willow. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one. At times, a Purple willow may also need
To fertilize your Purple willow using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Purple willow, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer. As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Purple willow. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Purple willow. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first. When overfertilization takes place, your Purple willow may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Purple willow can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Purple willow to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Purple willow.
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Purple willow. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Purple willow will be dormant and in no need of feeding. It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Purple willow will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for Purple willow?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The purple willow likes light; full sun is conducive to the photosynthesis of its leaves. The best foliage color appears when there is plenty of light, so plant it in an open spot in the garden that ensures at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. However, it will also grow well in partial shade.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune Purple willow?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
The purple willow grows fast under suitable conditions. Timely trimming of residual, dead and side branches can increase air permeability and light transmittance, so as to avoid providing breeding places for diseases and insect pests. For seedlings and newly-born willows, one main branch should be selected and kept during pruning, while any redundant lateral branches and buds should be trimmed, so that the main stem can grow thick in an upward direction.
For head-removed plants, main branches and new buds in 3-4 directions should be reserved consciously according to personal preference in the cross section, so as to maintain a more graceful shape. Trimming incisions should be smooth and coated with tung oil - this will protect the incision and encourage faster healing. Pruning is best carried out in early spring, late fall and winter.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for Purple willow?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The purple willow grows better in a temperate environment, but can tolerate both high and low temperatures. It prefers damp areas, but does have both flooding and drought tolerance. It grows best in a temperate range of 15 to 25 ℃, but can withstand low temperature conditions of about -46 ℃.
The purple willow mostly grows in wetlands beside the banks of rivers. Short-term flooding will not lead to its death. The purple willow is also often planted in water tanks or vases indoors, but it needs to be regularly provided with appropriate amounts of nutrient solution to meet the necessary nutrient requirements for growth. At the same time, any impurities should be limited as much as possible, and the pH of the water should be alkalescent to avoid the plant blackening and spoiling.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for Purple willow?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The purple willow is a highly adaptable plant with low soil requirements. Although it prefers moisture-retentive soils, it will grow well in a variety of soil types, and isn't fussy about pH. Good drainage is important in clay soil, otherwise the roots may rot, so pay attention to this during the plant's growth period.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate Purple willow?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Seedlings can be purchased and easily transplanted, or you can grow them yourself by way of cuttage. The best time for transplanting is after the soil has thawed in early spring. care should be taken at the early stage of transplanting to ensure a good survival rate. If the transplanting seedlings were purchased, sufficient water should be provided, and an appropriate base fertilizer should be applied according to the soil conditions. Too much fertilizer is unnecessary for the seedlings, so fertilization in its later growth stage should not be in high frequency. At the same time, watering shouldn't be too frequent, but this does depend on the dryness or wetness of the soil. Good drainage should also be maintained to avoid rotten roots.
Early spring is the best time for taking cuttings. plants with faster growth, fewer diseases and pests, and a beautiful natural shape should be selected as stock plants, so that the characteristics of the stock plants can be retained to a greater extent, meaning a better survival rate for the seedlings. Take any cuttings before the plant buds in early spring.
Cut a branch around 15 to 17 cm in length, making the cut oblique to increase water absorption capacity and survival rate. Soaking it in water for several hours can also increase the rooting rate. Insert the branch into the soil at a depth of about 1/3 of its length, and provide sufficient water. Keep the soil moist at all times before it buds.
After budding, the leaf buds at the lower parts of the branch should be removed, and only the buds at the top need to be kept for growing. At the same time, attention should also be paid to weeding and loosening the soil during this period, to prevent weeds from competing for limited resources.
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Propagation

Purple willow provides good landscaping for your garden all year round, which is quite essential for the garden. As your Purple willow grows, you may want to know how to get more of them for free. Or maybe your Purple willow has been damaged by a pest or disease and you’d like to save it and propagate a new plant. This article is about how to propagate your Purple willow. For a simpler procedure, hardwood cuttings is a good choice. Purple willow can be propagated during the dormant season from mid-autumn until late winter. Most people prefer to take cuttings right after leaves drop, but it can be done successfully at other times, provided you avoid taking cuttings during severely cold periods. The beginning and ending of the dormant season are the most likely to be successful.Flash cuttings cannot tolerate the cold environment. If the winter temperatures in your area are low (e.g., below 0 ℉ for an extended period of time), it is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting. This will help the cuttings to develop roots. When propagating Purple willow, be sure your cutting tool is large enough and sharp enough to cut cleanly through the shoots. Using a dull tool can crush or tear the plant, which can lead to infection and disease.
  1. Sharp garden pruners
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
  4. Deep container(s) with drainage holes for planting
  5. Well-draining planting medium such as pine bark, perlite, or a potting soil mix
Steps: Step 1: Choose healthy shoots that are about as thick as a pencil for your propagation and 6 to 8 inches long, preferably from the previous year’s growth. Once you have identified your cuttings, use disinfected garden pruners to cut off the bud tip and take the remaining branch of the front section about 7-8 inches. If you are not putting them into containers immediately, keep the cuttings moist until you are able to pot them. TIP: Pay attention to which side is up when you are taking cuttings - it can be difficult to tell when there are no leaves Step 2: Prepare your containers by filling them with the planting medium. Adding compost to the soil can facilitate plant rooting. Step 3: Dip the bottom of your Purple willow into rooting hormone, then insert one-third to two-thirds of the cutting into the substrate. Plant them about 2 inches apart. You should be able to plant as many as 10 to 12, depending on your container size. Step 4: Water thoroughly, making sure the potting medium is evenly moist but allowing it to drain. Step 5: Place the containers in a cold, protected location that receives some sunlight. An unheated garage, a porch, or a cold frame work well for this. Leave the Purple willow there throughout the winter. Water occasionally to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely, although it can be dryer during the coldest winter months. Start watering more often as days get warmer in the spring. It is recommended that you place the cuttings in a garage or outdoor incubator after cutting if the winter temperatures in your area are low. Step 6: Move the containers outside to a spot that gets partial sun after the last frost. You can expect to see new leaves on your Purple willow around the middle of spring. It’s important to be patient with this process because it is quite slow. In fact, it can take a year or longer for Purple willow to be ready to be transplanted. Luckily there isn’t much maintenance during this time, and the process has a high likelihood of success. Even if your Purple willow is putting out new growth, they may not be ready to be planted into the ground just yet. It is more important that there are plenty of healthy roots growing. The roots should be at least 3 inches long, but many people like to wait until roots start to grow out of the drainage holes to be sure that there is a proper root system. Mound or stool laying is also a common method of propagation, but it’s more complex. Begin the mound or stool layering process in the autumn by cutting back your plant; this will allow the plant to put its energy into growing new roots in the spring. When growth begins in the spring, it's time to start layering dirt over the new growth. Wait one or two months for the roots to sufficiently develop before dividing or propagating the new plants. Mound or stool layering takes time and patience, but the tools you need to accomplish it are minimal. So long as you have your handy shears and trowel, you can get started right away!
  1. Sharp, sanitized scissors or shears
  2. Trowel for covering the plant
  3. Growing medium to cover the plant
Steps: Step 1: Cut the plant back to 4-6 inches from the ground during the dormant season. Or use scissors to circumferentially peel the lower part of the branch at 4-6 inches from the ground. Step 2: As new growth appears above the ground, layer soil over the new growth. Compacted with soil, this will allow the buried new growth shoots to root. Step 3: Make sure the regular growth of the mother plant during the pressing period, especially to keep properly moist to the area where the soil is mounded. Step 4: Dig up the mound of soil after 3-4 months then check the rooting situation. If vigorous roots have grown, cut off the roots along with the branches and plant them as new plants.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant Purple willow?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
In general, the purple willow has strong reproductive and adaptive abilities, so seedlings are commonly sold on the market. In addition, the plant can also be reproduced by the use of layering or cuttage. These two methods don't take much time and can retain the plant's original excellent properties to a great extent. With the plant's seeds being so small and light, sowing is considered to be a troublesome way to breed the purple willow.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest Purple willow?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
The wood of the purple willow is soft, and its branches are slender enough to be weaved into baskets, crates, bags, furniture and safety helmets. Its bark also contains a tannin that is used for industrial and medicinal products. Many animals often feed on young shoots and leaves, while the leaves of a few specific species can be used to feed livestock or tussah.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant Purple willow?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The best time to transplant purple willow is from late winter to early spring (S1-S2), as it conveniently coincides with the plant's dormant season, promoting better root establishment. A moist, well-drained location with full sun to partial shade is optimal. Remember to water thoroughly post-transplant to alleviate stress.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

During winter pruning, plants with strong vitality and growth will need more attention, while the weaker ones should be pruned to a relatively smaller extent. Focus should be placed on trimming any vigorously growing side and lateral branches from their bases. In the summer, focus on trimming the more vigorously growing branches, and, at the same time, retain those weaker branches and adjust the tree's shape to enhance its beauty and plumpness.
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Fall

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Winter

Temperate trees and shrubs like your plant require little care in the spring, but it is the best time for planting.

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1
Wait to plant until the soil is warm in a protected area with partial sunlight.
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2
Deeply water new specimens but leave mature ones alone except in severe droughts.
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3
Fertilize every three or four weeks or apply a layer of compost once in early spring.
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4
Prune back any dead growth and shape the plant.
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5
If growing in a container, move the plant to a sunny location.

Hot summer temperatures are the reason temperate trees and shrubs like this plant thrive in partially shady areas.

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1
Increase watering when rainfall is scarce, even with mature specimens. The soak and dry method work best.
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2
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases and remove any debris from the area.
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3
Apply another application of fertilizer or compost to the base of the plant.
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4
Prune back any excessive growth but watch out for newly emerging leaf buds. Try to leave those on the plant for fall growth.

Continue caring for your plant through the fall, when it can add some decoration to gardens or rooms.

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1
Add fertilizer and cold protection to your plant in the form of mulch to help it survive the colder weather, especially when it’s planted outdoors in colder locations.
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2
You can plant new shrubs during this season.
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3
Continue providing established plants with regular watering, soaking dry soil.
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4
Look out for pests and diseases, including leaf spots and mealybugs.
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5
Keep the shrubs in a shady locations, but make sure it gets some exposure to bright, indirect light, especially if it’s grown indoors.

While the plant is somewhat dormant during this season, it can also provide some lovely decoration and requires some care to keep it looking its best.

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1
In the winter, you can take the opportunity to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased branches. Dormancy is the best time to perform these tidying tasks.
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2
Sensitive plants can be brought indoors to overwinter away from frost and cold wind if they’re potted and able to be moved. Otherwise, the plant may do well outdoors in more tropical locations, where the temperature doesn’t plummet so much.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Purple willow based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Leaf rot
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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More About Purple Willow

Plant Type
Plant Type
Shrub
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
4 m
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring
Flower Color
Flower Color
Green
Yellow
Silver
Plant Height
Plant Height
8 m

Usages

Garden Use
A very pretty evergreen shrub with bi-colored leaves that flutter in the wind, purple willow is popular in gardens for its good looks, hardiness, and tolerance of cold and poor soils. It is most commonly used in hedging, as a screen, or as part of a water-loving planting in boggy areas, at pondsides, or at streamsides.
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Common Problems

How can I solve root damage to the ground caused by my purple willow?

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Its roots are invasive and can stretch to three times the length of the trunk to the crown. These roots are usually located near the ground surface, which may lead to uneven lawns and cracks in sidewalks and terraces. The roots may also damage underground sewage pipes and pipelines. Serious problems will require offending roots to be cut off, and then a root barrier can then be added to prevent the roots from spreading in that direction again.
A deep and wide pit should be dug when planting the purple willow to prevent future damage to the ground. plant the tree in the hole and make sure it is straight. Don't add fertilizer into the hole, as this will make the roots round, instead of allowing them to spread. When filling the soil in, add 2 gallons of water halfway through, and then fill the hole with the remaining soil and firmly tamp it.

How is the problem of fragile wood and damaged branches solved?

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Like most fast-growing trees, the purple willow has fragile wood, especially those that are growing in areas with cold winters, ice storms and strong winds. The solution is to trim the trees each year to remove dead or damaged wood, as well as vertically growing branches. Its whip-shaped, long branches are easily broken in the wind and will produce a large number of fallen leaves, so should be properly trimmed.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Purple willow thrives on generous amounts of light exposure. Optimal health is achieved under the sun's continuous embrace, yet it can manage with only a portion of solar visuals throughout the day. Over or under exposure to sunlight may stunt its growth or cause less vigorous development.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Purple willow thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your purple willow may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Purple willow enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Purple willow thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The purple willow grows natively in temperate regions and can withstand a wide range of temperatures, from 32 ℉ (0 ℃) to 90 ℉ (32 ℃). In the summer, it prefers cooler temperatures, around 60 to 70 ℉ (16 to 21 ℃), and in the winter it can tolerate temperatures as low as 32 ℉ (0 ℃). It's recommended to water the plant regularly in the summer to help it adjust to higher temperatures.
Regional wintering strategies
Purple willow is highly cold-tolerant and does not require additional frost protection measures during winter. However, before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant generously to ensure the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Purple willow is extremely cold-tolerant, but the winter temperature should be maintained above {Limit_growth_temperature}. If the temperature drops below this threshold, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
Purple willow is not tolerant to high temperatures. When the temperature exceeds {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}, it may experience significant leaf drop, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wither and die.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Purple Willow?
The best time to transplant purple willow is from late winter to early spring (S1-S2), as it conveniently coincides with the plant's dormant season, promoting better root establishment. A moist, well-drained location with full sun to partial shade is optimal. Remember to water thoroughly post-transplant to alleviate stress.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Purple Willow?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Purple Willow?
The most conducive period to transplant purple willow is early spring to late spring (S1-S2), or simply referred to as the spring awakening. The reason is that during this season, the soil warms up and becomes conducive for root development. Transplanting purple willow during this time will provide the plant with ample time to establish roots before the heat of the summer arrives. You'll notice an impressive growth and vitality in purple willow planted in this period. Be timely, plan this ahead, and you'll be rewarded with a beautifully blossoming purple willow.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Purple Willow Plants?
Novice gardeners, make sure to allow plenty of space for your purple willow to flourish. Ten to fifteen feet (3-4.5 meters) between each plant should do the trick. This roominess allows for healthy growth and easy care.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Purple Willow Transplanting?
Soil preparation is vital for your purple willow's success! This plant thrives in well-drained soil, enriched with organic matter. Giving a good base fertilization can work wonders. Try compost or manure. Your purple willow would thank you if it could!
Where Should You Relocate Your Purple Willow?
With location, sun exposure matters a lot. Your purple willow likes to bask in full sunlight but can also accept twirling in partial shade. Areas receiving 6-8 hours of daylight are ideal. Let your plant soak up that sunshine!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Purple Willow?
Trowel
A small hand tool used for digging. Essential for careful removal of the plant especially when transplanting from a pot or seedling tray.
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Pot Carry Trays
Suitable for holding seedlings in the initial stage.
Gardening Spade or Shovel
For scooping out bigger volumes of soil, particularly useful when transplanting a large purple willow from the ground.
Garden Hose or Watering Can
For watering the plant before and after transplanting.
Mulch
To help retain moisture in the soil after transplantation.
Stake and Gardening Tie
If the purple willow plant is tall, you may need these to keep it stable after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Purple Willow from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the purple willow plant to dampen the soil to facilitate easy removal. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a spade or shovel, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From A Pot: To remove the purple willow plant from a pot, gently hold the base of the plant and turn the pot upside down, if possible. It's important that you handle the roots delicately to prevent damage. If the plant doesn't slide out easily, you might need to tap the rim of the pot on a hard surface to loosen the it.
From A Seedling Tray: Water the tray well before removing the purple willow seedlings. Gently pull each seedling from the tray by holding the leaves, not the stem. Try to remove as much soil with the roots as possible.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Purple Willow
Digging Hole
Once the site is prepared, dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the pot the purple willow is in. The extra space will accommodate the roots and help them spread.
Placing Plant
Place the purple willow in the hole, making sure it is at the same depth as it was in the original location. Handle the plant by the root ball, not by the stem or branches.
Backfill the Hole
Fill in around the plant using the same soil that was removed, gently firm the soil around the base of the purple willow plant without compacting it too much.
Watering
Once the purple willow is planted, water it thoroughly around the base, ensuring that the water reaches deep down to the roots.
Staking (Optional)
If the plant is tall, you may need to stake it to ensure it stays upright until its roots have become established in the new location.
How Do You Care For Purple Willow After Transplanting?
Watering
Water the purple willow plant thoroughly after transplanting and continue to provide plenty of water for the first few weeks, especially if weather is dry.
Mulching
Mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
Pruning
Light pruning of the purple willow may be beneficial in the first few weeks after transplanting which could help the plant to focus energy on root development.
Inspecting
Keep an eye on your purple willow for signs of transplant shock, which include wilting leaves and a lack of new growth. If these symptoms occur, consider seeking advice from a local nursery or extension service.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Purple Willow Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant purple willow?
The optimal time to relocate purple willow is during the S1-S2 season, when the plant is dormant and less likely to experience transplant shock.
What is the ideal distance for purple willow during transplant?
To allow purple willow ample room to grow, position your plants about 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) apart.
What should I do if the purple willow wilts after transplanting?
Wilting can be a sign of transplant shock. Mitigate this by watering purple willow regularly during the first few weeks after transplanting.
Should I water the purple willow right after transplanting?
Absolutely! Watering purple willow immediately post-transplanting helps settle the soil and moisten the roots, reducing transplant shock.
Is there a preferred soil type for transplanting purple willow?
Purple willow thrives in well-draining soil. The plant can handle different soil types, but avoiding waterlogged and hard-packed soil is recommended.
What are the precautionary steps to avoid root damage during transplant?
When digging up purple willow, ensure the root ball remains intact. Transplant it quickly and avoid leaving the roots exposed or to dry out.
How should I place the purple willow in the planting hole during transplant?
Position purple willow so that its crown, where the roots merge into the main stem, sits at soil level. It's crucial not to plant it too deep.
What if the leaves of purple willow turn yellow after transplanting?
If purple willow's leaves yellow, it may indicate a nutrient deficiency. Use an all-purpose plant food to supplement this, following the package instructions.
Is it necessary to stake purple willow after transplanting?
Staking is beneficial if purple willow lacks stability due to a maturing root system. However, remove it once the sapling is established to prevent dependent growth.
How do I protect purple willow from the wind and sun after transplanting?
Provide purple willow with some shielding for the first few weeks post-transplant, using windbreaks or shade cloth. This helps avoid stress from heat or wind exposure.
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These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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