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How to Care for Peace Lily

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum) is a plant species that is native to southern Mexico. Peace lily is commonly cultivated as an ornamental houseplant. This species should not be grown in direct sunlight.
symbolism

Symbolism

Peace and prosperity
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Toxic to Pets
Peace lily play
Peace lily
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Peace lily
Peace lily
Peace lily
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Peace lily need to grow in moist environments but are not adaptable to environments with too much water. To determine if it is time to water, a simple and relatively reliable method can be used: insert your index finger into the potting soil and feel whether the soil is wet or not. If the soil is wet, water is not required. If the soil is dry, the plant lacks water. Peace lily do not need a fixed amount of water. Water the soil thoroughly each time, and wait for the excess water to flow out of the flowerpot bottom and into a tray. Then, pour the excess water out.
Generally speaking, the frequency of watering for peace lily in spring and autumn is once every 3 days. Water evaporation in spring and fall is relatively slow: once every two days in spring, and once every 5-7 days in winter. Because of the slow evaporation of water in winter, too much water will cause root rot and leaf yellowing. The specific watering frequency should be adjusted according to regional and seasonal differences. In a word, just keep the soil slightly wet.
It is best to use rainwater and distilled water for watering peace lily. However, if using tap water, let it sit overnight so the chlorine in the water can volatilize before watering. Sprayers can also create a moist environment for plants, which is more conducive to plant growth.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Peace lily?
There are plenty of viable ways to supply your Peace lily with water. If you grow your plant in an indoor pot, for the Peace lilys in small pots, you can bring your potted plant to your kitchen sink. Then, use the faucet to add water to the container. By holding the pot in your hands, you should easily notice when the water begins to run through the pot’s drainage holes, at which point you can stop watering. The cold temperature will hurt the plants' root system, so please don't do this during winter or in cold climates. Most of the time, watering via your faucet is permissible for the Peace lily. However, if the local tap water contains a high proportion of fluorine, chlorine or salts, you should consider using rainwater or lake water.
Also, since the Peace lily can respond well to overhead watering and watering directly into the soil, you can use a watering can, hose, or just about any tool you’d like to water it.
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What should I do if I water my Peace lily too much or too little?
If you discover that you have underwatered your Peace lily, your first step towards remedying the situation is to give your plant some water. Water deeply until excess water runs from the container’s drainage hole, or if you grow outside, water until the soil has become entirely moist. If you find your Peace lily is receiving too much water, begin by reducing your watering schedule. You also want to address the soil and container your Peace lily grows in. If either the soil or the container makes it difficult for water to drain efficiently, your plant will likely become overwatered again. Resolve the issue by moving your plant to looser soils and/or a container with bigger drainage holes or a more porous material. Also check the location of the plant. If the plant is in places like a corner, then it is recommended to move it to a window or around a door to enhance ventilation. Making sure the plants are in a well-ventilated location can reduce the occurrence of overwatering to some extent.
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How often should I water my Peace lily?
The Peace lily is not a species that requires consistent soil moisture. Instead, it is better to allow this plant’s soil to become dry between waterings. If you are like the many gardeners who grow Peace lilys in containers, you can judge whether or not it is time to add water by how dry the soil within the container is. For instance, if about top half of the soil in your container has become dry, it is time to add water. You can feel it by inserting your fingers or sticks into the soil or with soil moisture meter. For those who grow the Peace lily outdoors, you can plan to do your watering about once every other week, provided it has not rained recently.
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How much water does my Peace lily need?
After waiting for the first several layers of soil surrounding your Peace lily’s root to become dry(top half of the soil), it is time to add enough water to make them moist again. The amount of water it takes to achieve that goal depends on if you use a container, how large that container is, and how large your plant itself is. For a small Peace lily growing in a small to a medium-sized container, one to two cups may be enough to dampen the soil sufficiently. As you would expect, the volume of water you supply should increase for a larger plant. The best way to make sure your plant has received enough water is to stick your finger or a trowel into the soil and feel whether it is entirely moist. Alternatively, you can water until you see excess water draining from the holes at the bottom of your container.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Peace lily enough?
Overwatering and underwatering are both bad for the health of your Peace lily. These two issues also manifest themselves in subtly different ways when they occur. Peace lily that receives too little water may begin to develop yellow leaves. Underwatering may also cause the leaf margins to become brown and brittle. By contrast, Peace lily that gets overwatered will often show yellow and brown marks on its leaves at the same time. Overwatering can also lead to diseases like root rot, some of which may also be visible on your plant. However, if you know the signs of overwatering and underwatering, you stand a good chance of correcting both issues.
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How should I water my Peace lily through the seasons?
During spring and fall, your watering schedule for the Peace lily will remain relatively the same, which will involve watering this plant about once every week. During summer, you may find that the hot weather causes your plant to need more water than usual, especially if it grows where there is a considerable amount of daily light exposure. In the winter, if it's hard to find some warm places for you plant, your Peace lily will enter a dormant growth phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. At this time, you may get by without watering your plant at all. If you do choose to water during winter, you should not do so more often than once every two to three weeks.
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How should I water my Peace lily at different growth stages?
After planting a new, young Peace lily or after transplanting an older Peace lily, you will probably need to give this plant more water than usual. Young plants often need consistent soil moisture during the early stages of their growth to help them adapt to their new growing locations. Transplants also need more water for a brief time to overcome transplant shock. In either case, you may need to water multiple times per week until your plant has exhibited continuous healthy growth. In most situations, your water should be moderate and should never be significant enough to cause overwatering.
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What's the difference between watering Peace lily indoors and outdoors?
There are a few reasons why you may need to water an indoor Peace lily more often than one that grows in the ground outdoors. First, indoor growing settings tend to be drier than outdoor ones, often due to the effect of air conditioning units. While thw size of the pot and the soil determines the warer accumulating ability. Additionally, when your plant grows indoors, it will rely on you entirely for its water By contrast, Peace lily that grows outside can receive water from rain. If you are in an area with high rainfall, you may not have to give it extra watering. When there is not enough rain, you should water additionally to ensure that the soil does not dry out completely.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Peace lily require less fertilizer, except during their growth period. In fact, excessive nitrogenous fertilizer promotes the growth of branches and leaves but doesn't promote blooming. During repotting or planting, base fertilizer can be mixed in with the new soil. This is beneficial for later care.
Peace lily grow most vigorously in spring and summer and consume a large amount of nutrients during blooming. Sufficient flower fertilizer needs to be applied to meet their nutritional needs. During blooming, fertilizer can be applied once a month, but the concentration of fertilizer solution should be diluted to 25% of the recommended concentration. This will help avoid excessive concentration and damage to roots.
In autumn, the temperature drops gradually, the respiration intensity of the plant decreases, and the nutrient consumption becomes slow. At this time, the amount of fertilizer should be appropriately reduced. In winter, if the temperature is too low, peace lily will stop absorbing nutrients and water. At this time, fertilization should be stopped.
It should be noted that fertilizer is best applied after watering. Dry, hard soil can lead to uneven fertilizer distribution, and high fertilizer concentration in some areas may lead to root damage. If the spathe of a plant turns green, it may be a sign of overfertilization. If this happens, stop fertilizing immediately and halve the amount of fertilizer during the next growing season. If the leaves turn yellow but the leaf veins are still green, this may be a sign of magnesium deficiency. A fertilizer containing magnesium may be applied.

Fertilizer

Although Peace lily comes from the warmer parts of the world, these plants are commonly grown as houseplants. The brilliant colored flowers of the Peace lily make them some of the most beautiful plants that you can own. However, if you wish to get the most out of your Peace lily and enjoy the greatest version of their blooms, then you must understand how to fertilize this plant correctly. Proper fertilization will help your Peace lily look great and remain healthy, and the sections below will show you how to feed this plant the right way.
Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Peace lily will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition. For the Peace lily specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Peace lily produce the best possible blooms.
The Peace lily goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Peace lily will need fertilization the most. Generally, it is best to fertilize your Peace lily starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate. You want to support Peace lily growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.
The ideal fertilizer for a Peace lily is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Peace lily 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Peace lily. However, some of the best fertilizers for Peace lily come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Peace lily.
Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Peace lily, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Peace lily, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil. Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Peace lily lives.
Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Peace lily. A Peace lily, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant. Overfertilized Peace lily will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Peace lily?
Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Peace lily will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition.
For the Peace lily specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Peace lily produce the best possible blooms.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Peace lily?
The Peace lily goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Peace lily will need fertilization the most.
Generally, it is best to fertilize your Peace lily starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Peace lily?
You want to support Peace lily growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Peace lily need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Peace lily is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Peace lily 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Peace lily. However, some of the best fertilizers for Peace lily come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Peace lily.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Peace lily?
Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Peace lily, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Peace lily, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil.
Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Peace lily lives.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Peace lily too much?
Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Peace lily. A Peace lily, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant.
Overfertilized Peace lily will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Originally grown in tropical rain forests, peace lily are understory plants and can adapt to environments with little light intensity. However, it is difficult to blossom under low light conditions, so peace lily need a sufficient amount of filtered light. For example, you can place peace lily indoors near a window while avoiding direct sunlight. Yellowing of the leaves indicates that the light intensity may be too strong, and browning or streaking of leaves indicates that direct sunlight has burned the plant. In this case, consider placing the flowerpot about 1.8 to 2 m away from the window.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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What type of sunlight does Peace lily need?
Peace lily typically needs full, indirect sunlight in order to thrive indoors. This means that the plant should be exposed to bright sunlight that doesn’t hit it directly from a window or another light source, like a grow light. You can easily protect it from direct sunlight by placing a sheer curtain between your Peace lily and the window, or by placing it behind a part of the window with a dark screen.
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How can I avoid damaging new Peace lily with sunlight?
If this is your first time bringing your Peace lily home, then it might be a good idea to try to ease it into the sunlight it needs, rather than place it in bright, indirect light right away. Over the course of two weeks or so, you can slowly move your plant into the sunlight to avoid shock or burning of the leaves from sudden intense light exposure. By easing it into the light, your Peace lily is much more likely to adapt to your home environment well.
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How can I tell if Peace lily is getting too much light?
Peace lily is one that can easily sunburn with too much sunlight. In the wild, these plants only receive mild, dappled light, filtered down from tree canopies. While they need more light than that to grow in our homes, too much can certainly cause issues. If your Peace lily is getting too much light, you’ll notice that the foliage begins to look bleached or washed out, the tips of leaves may turn yellow or brown and crispy, and it may even grow too quickly to support itself.
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What should I do if my Peace lily gets light damage?
Sunburn for plants is much less severe than sunburn for people. While it may look unsightly, crispy, burnt leaves can be removed if they’re too far damaged to recover, or over half of the leaf is damaged. However, you can also try trimming back the leaves just to remove any sunburn damage in an effort to save them, if there’s not too much discoloration. Move your Peace lily away from its light source to avoid future light damage.
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Does Peace lily need different light during different growth stages?
While some plants may be ready to face the sweltering sun straight out of the ground, Peace lily needs some time to build itself up enough to tolerate bright light. Propagated cuttings should receive only moderate indirect light, while new leaves during the growing season should be shielded a bit as well. The tender new leaves are more prone to sunburn than any other part of the plant.
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How can I tell if Peace lily isn’t getting enough light?
Fortunately, plants can communicate in their own language to convey whether they have adequate sunlight or not. Like most plants, your Peace lily will tell you if it isn’t getting enough sunlight. The most visible sign is when your plant becomes particularly dark, or there is no new growth on the plant from one season to the next. You’ll also notice that leaves that do grow in may remain smaller than others, since there isn’t enough light to photosynthesize to support large new leaves.
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How much sunlight should Peace lily get each day?
Depending on how bright the sunlight is that your Peace lily gets, the number of hours in a day may vary. If you have your plant in bright, indirect light, then there’s no need to try to restrict or increase the amount of time your plant gets this light each day. However, if light is less bright or further away from your Peace lily, then you can try to aim for at least eight hours of full light per day.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

When the spathes of peace lily wither gradually, the whole flower stems should be cut off. The yellow crumpled leaves should also be promptly cut off to avoid nutrient consumption and make space for new flowers and leaves. Additionally, rotten roots found during flowerpot changing should also be cut off.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Does my Peace lily need to be pruned?
The usual goal for the Peace lily is to have it grow as big and full as possible. While the plant doesn’t require consistent trimming, it can benefit by removing old flowers and any damaged, dead, or diseased leaves. You can also trim back the leaves if it is starting to get too big for the pot and space you are keeping it.
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When is the best time to prune my Peace lily?
Peace lily don’t have a winter dormancy cycle at the suitable temperature. With that said, their growth does slow down as the days get shorter, however the leaves don’t die. What does that mean for pruning? It means there’s no specific season where it’s better to prune. Ideally, you will want to wait until the flower blooms before pruning it, which can take about a month after the appearance of the blossom. With deadheading, you’ll want to do this around late spring or when only a few of the blossoms have faded. You should always prune brown or yellow leaves when you notice them. Throughout the growing phase, make sure to pay close attention to any potential diseased leaves and remove these as necessary.
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What should I do after pruning my Peace lily?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Peace lily a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new blooms and growth.
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How can I prune my Peace lily during different growth stages?
Chances are you’re not getting the Peace lily from seed, which means you’re already getting a mature plant. Since the plant doesn’t have a true dormancy cycle, there are really only two phases: blooming and non-blooming. While the plant is blooming, you should only remove yellow or dead leaves and cut off any brown tips on the leaves. Avoid doing too much pruning during this time as it can stress the plant. Still, you should remove any diseased or dead leaves to keep your plant presentable. The best time to prune is after the blossoms have already wilted. You can remove both the spent blossoms and any old and yellowed leaves at the same time. If you’re noticing a large amount of yellow leaves, you might be overwatering your plant or not giving it enough nutrients. While yellow or brown leaves don’t always mean there’s an issue, if you notice a large amount of leaves shifting colors, it usually means there’s a problem with the plant.
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How can I prune my Peace lily during different seasons?
As an evergreen plant, Peace lily doesn’t have the same cycles as those found in colder areas. The leaves will remain green throughout the year, which is one of the many reasons it is a popular houseplant. If you want to deadhead, you should do so after the blossoms have already wilted. Throughout the growing phase, make sure to pay close attention to any potential diseased leaves and remove these as necessary.
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Are there any instructions for pruning my Peace lily?
How you prune the Peace lily will depend on whether you’re performing general care or deadheading. For general care, simply cut off the blossoms that have already died. Make sure to get as close to the base as possible and snip at a 45-degree angle. Repeat this for all stalks with wilting blooms. After that, trim back any outer leaves that are old and yellowing. If you simply want to thin the plant out, start with the outermost leaf and work your way in. Avoid removing more than 30 percent of the leaves at once. Throughout the growing phase, make sure to pay close attention to any potential diseased leaves and remove these as necessary.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Peace lily are native to tropical regions in Asia and America and like warm and moist environments. Their growth temperature range is 18 to 24 ℃. The optimum temperature is about 20 ℃, and the plant will be unable to grow or possibly survive at temperatures lower than 16 ℃. The relative air humidity should be higher than 40% and drought should be avoided. In winter, indoor humidity will drop sharply, so humidifiers can be used to increase it.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Peace lily?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Peace lily require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Peace lily doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Peace lily need different temperatures for different seasons?
Peace lily does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Peace lily healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Peace lily?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Peace lily is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Peace lily like air-permeable, loose soil rich in organic matter because their native environment is tropical rain forests where soil contains rich organic matter. They can be planted in soil with a pH of 5.8-7, but weakly acidic soil is more suitable for their growth. Potting soil sold on the market can usually be used for planting. For self-prepared culture medium, the recommended formula is 1/3 loam + 1/3 sphagnum moss + 1/3 sandy soil. Additionally, perlite, bark fragments, or similar additions can increase the permeability of potting soil.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

As far as peace lily are concerned, the cutting method makes it difficult for stem segments to survive. Sowing is also unpopular because it is difficult to obtain peace lily seeds, which can only be obtained by artificial pollination after blooming. Furthermore, it takes about one year from pollination to seed maturation. After seed harvest, seeds should be sowed immediately in temperatures maintained at about 20 to 30 ℃; too-low temperatures may cause the seeds to rot.
Gardening enthusiasts can breed these plants by division propagation. However, to meet market demand, efficient plant tissue culture technology can also be applied to breed them in batches.

Propagation

Peace lily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Peace lily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Peace lily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.

Peace lily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Peace lily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Peace lily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
It is best to repot peace lily in spring every 1-2 years. Put a layer of ceramsite or pebbles at the bottom of the new flowerpot beforehand to avoid water accumulation and root rot. The new flowerpot diameter should be about 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the last flowerpot's, and should not be too large to avoid excessive water accumulation. Blooming will consume a large amount of nutrients. Therefore, in order to prevent early flower withering, use flower nutrient solution for irrigating the roots and spraying on leaf surfaces for better results.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

The prime time for transferring peace lily is typically early spring to mid-summer. This period, scientifically referred to as S2-S3, presents an ideal opportunity for root establishment with less stress. Transplants thrive best in a shady location with good drainage. Don't forget to water them well after moving, to help the plant settle.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Needs excellent drainage in pots
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
care_scenes

More About How-Tos

Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, Overwinter, etc.
Water
Twice per week
Lighting
Partial sun
Peace lily thrives under conditions where there is moderate daily sun exposure, mimicking its original forest understory habitat. Excessive sun exposure can lead to leaf burn, while insufficient light may cause slower growth and fewer flowers. Different growth stages do not significantly alter its sun requirements.
Learn More
Temperature
5 43 ℃
Peace lily is native to environments with tropic-like temperatures. It prefers warmth, thriving within the range of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). In colder seasons, consider increasing room temperature and avoiding draughts to maintain health.
Learn More
Transplant
1.5-2.5 feet
The prime time for transferring peace lily is typically early spring to mid-summer. This period, scientifically referred to as S2-S3, presents an ideal opportunity for root establishment with less stress. Transplants thrive best in a shady location with good drainage. Don't forget to water them well after moving, to help the plant settle.
Learn More
Overwinter
20 ℃
Peace lily hails from tropical rainforests, adapted to persistent warmth and humidity. In winter, it wouldn't naturally face a cold snap, which makes cold drafts and dry air its nemesis. Gardeners must prevent peace lily from experiencing freezing conditions, keep it in well-drained soil to avoid waterlogging, and humidify the surroundings occasionally. A little extra care can turn winters into spring for peace lily.
Learn More
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Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Peace lily grow faster and consume more water and nutrients in spring. It is important to observe soil moisture every day. When the soil is dry, it should be watered quickly, and balanced fertilizer can be applied once a month. In summer, high temperatures accelerate water evaporation. Therefore, in addition to the daily observation of soil moisture, humidifiers or sprayers should be used to increase indoor humidity.
In autumn and winter, the temperature drops. Water and fertilizer should be appropriately reduced, and fertilization can stop when the temperature is lower than 15 ℃.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical herbs like your plant are easy to care for throughout the year but require a little extra attention in the spring.

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1
Spring is the ideal time to repot root-bound plants and propagate new ones by cutting off some of the trailing vines.
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2
Water once every week or so when the soil is drying out and fertilize with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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3
Ensure the plant is receiving enough sunlight but be careful to not burn the leaves.
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4
Spring is also a good time for propagation. Carefully remove a green stem and place it in water. When roots appear, transplant the cutting to a container.

Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

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1
Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.
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2
Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
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3
Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.
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4
Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.
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5
New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.

As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

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Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer
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2
Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.
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3
You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.
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4
Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.
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5
However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.

This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

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At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.
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2
The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.
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3
It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Peace lily based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Poisoning from peace lily can be moderately toxic to dogs. The sap of these plants circulates calcium oxalate crystals throughout their leaves, stems, roots, and flowers. These crystals cause significant irritation when ingested, leading to a redness or burning of the mouth and throat, which may in turn lead to loss of appetite, pawing at the mouth, excessive drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Vomiting and diarrhea are also possible in more severe cases. Thankfully, dogs do not usually eat large quantities of these very distasteful plants.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
Peace lily contain chemical compounds that pose a moderate threat to the health of a cat. Calcium oxalate crystals are present in the sap of the entire plant. Contact of this sap on skin or mucous membranes can cause swelling and burning of the mouth, tongue, and lips, vomiting, drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Sometimes eating or breathing can be affected, so seek veterinary advice.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
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Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Peace Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
60 to 150 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
1 to 1.8 m

Name story

Peace lily
The name is slightly misleading as the peace lily is not a true lily but an aroid, or member of the arum family. In Greek, “spath” means spoon, and “phyl” means leaf, so the name Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum refers to the leaf-like bract or spathe which is spoon-shaped.

Usages

Garden Use
The popular peace lily is collected as an indoor and outdoor ornamental by plant enthusiasts everywhere. It is valued for its prominent spathe leaves, shaped like one big flower petal or sail, which is highly attractive. Its flowers are also quite striking. In the outdoor garden, it serves well as a shaded border plant. It can be grown in containers both indoors and outdoors.
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care_faq

Common Problems

Why are the peace lily leaves turning yellow or withering?

more more
Yellowing or withering leaves may be caused by strong sunlight, alkaline soil, excessive fertilizer, too little or too much water, long periods of drought or too-wet soil, poor drainage, permeability, and low-temperature injuries caused by open doors and windows or air conditioning and fans. For indoor care, the plant should be placed in a location with sufficient sunlight, but should not be exposed to direct sunlight. For weak, alkaline soil, acidity and alkalinity can be adjusted with rainwater. Cut off any seriously dry branches and leaves. If the soil is very dry, water it promptly and increase the air humidity. If there is sufficient water in the soil, no immediate watering is necessary. Appropriate sunlight and fertilizer should be offered according to the care guide. Low-temperature environments should be avoided, and plants should be kept away from air conditioning, fans, and similar appliances.

Why don't my peace lily ever bloom?

more more
Lack of blooming is caused by insufficient sunlight, water, or fertilizer, too-low temperatures, or extended use of tap water with high mineral salts. To combat this issue, increase sunlight and moisture, maintain the temperature at 18 to 24 ℃, supplement fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium contents (or purchase fertilizer specially designed for promoting flowering) and use rainwater or distilled water instead of tap water for watering.

Why are the spathes of my peace lily always green?

more more
The problem may be insufficient sunlight or fertilizer deficiency. Provide sufficient filtered light as needed, avoid overly dry or wet soil, and appropriately add fertilizer with a high phosphorus content to promote blooming.

How should I deal with root rot?

more more
Reduce water supply, repot or transplant the plant, and cut off rotten roots. Replace the soil with well-draining and permeable culture medium, and use suitable materials based on the recommendations in the care guide. Avoid overly wet soil and water accumulation, ensure smooth drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot, and avoid water accumulation in the tray. Pesticides may also be necessary according to plant symptoms, as detailed under the "Pests and Diseases" section.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
trouble-image
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
trouble-image
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
trouble-image
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
trouble-image
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
10℃ to 35℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
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Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
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Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full shade
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
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Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
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Step 2
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Step 3
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Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
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Step 4
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Peace Lily
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Peace Lily
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Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
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Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
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Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
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Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
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Peace lily
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Peace lily

How to Care for Peace Lily

Peace lily (Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum) is a plant species that is native to southern Mexico. Peace lily is commonly cultivated as an ornamental houseplant. This species should not be grown in direct sunlight.
symbolism

Symbolism

Peace and prosperity
Water
Twice per week
Water Water detail
Sunlight
Partial sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
Toxic to Pets
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Peace lily need to grow in moist environments but are not adaptable to environments with too much water. To determine if it is time to water, a simple and relatively reliable method can be used: insert your index finger into the potting soil and feel whether the soil is wet or not. If the soil is wet, water is not required. If the soil is dry, the plant lacks water. Peace lily do not need a fixed amount of water. Water the soil thoroughly each time, and wait for the excess water to flow out of the flowerpot bottom and into a tray. Then, pour the excess water out.
Generally speaking, the frequency of watering for peace lily in spring and autumn is once every 3 days. Water evaporation in spring and fall is relatively slow: once every two days in spring, and once every 5-7 days in winter. Because of the slow evaporation of water in winter, too much water will cause root rot and leaf yellowing. The specific watering frequency should be adjusted according to regional and seasonal differences. In a word, just keep the soil slightly wet.
It is best to use rainwater and distilled water for watering peace lily. However, if using tap water, let it sit overnight so the chlorine in the water can volatilize before watering. Sprayers can also create a moist environment for plants, which is more conducive to plant growth.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Peace lily require less fertilizer, except during their growth period. In fact, excessive nitrogenous fertilizer promotes the growth of branches and leaves but doesn't promote blooming. During repotting or planting, base fertilizer can be mixed in with the new soil. This is beneficial for later care.
Peace lily grow most vigorously in spring and summer and consume a large amount of nutrients during blooming. Sufficient flower fertilizer needs to be applied to meet their nutritional needs. During blooming, fertilizer can be applied once a month, but the concentration of fertilizer solution should be diluted to 25% of the recommended concentration. This will help avoid excessive concentration and damage to roots.
In autumn, the temperature drops gradually, the respiration intensity of the plant decreases, and the nutrient consumption becomes slow. At this time, the amount of fertilizer should be appropriately reduced. In winter, if the temperature is too low, peace lily will stop absorbing nutrients and water. At this time, fertilization should be stopped.
It should be noted that fertilizer is best applied after watering. Dry, hard soil can lead to uneven fertilizer distribution, and high fertilizer concentration in some areas may lead to root damage. If the spathe of a plant turns green, it may be a sign of overfertilization. If this happens, stop fertilizing immediately and halve the amount of fertilizer during the next growing season. If the leaves turn yellow but the leaf veins are still green, this may be a sign of magnesium deficiency. A fertilizer containing magnesium may be applied.
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Fertilizer

Although Peace lily comes from the warmer parts of the world, these plants are commonly grown as houseplants. The brilliant colored flowers of the Peace lily make them some of the most beautiful plants that you can own. However, if you wish to get the most out of your Peace lily and enjoy the greatest version of their blooms, then you must understand how to fertilize this plant correctly. Proper fertilization will help your Peace lily look great and remain healthy, and the sections below will show you how to feed this plant the right way.
Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Peace lily will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition. For the Peace lily specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Peace lily produce the best possible blooms.
The Peace lily goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Peace lily will need fertilization the most. Generally, it is best to fertilize your Peace lily starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate. You want to support Peace lily growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.
The ideal fertilizer for a Peace lily is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Peace lily 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Peace lily. However, some of the best fertilizers for Peace lily come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Peace lily.
Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Peace lily, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Peace lily, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil. Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Peace lily lives.
Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Peace lily. A Peace lily, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant. Overfertilized Peace lily will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Originally grown in tropical rain forests, peace lily are understory plants and can adapt to environments with little light intensity. However, it is difficult to blossom under low light conditions, so peace lily need a sufficient amount of filtered light. For example, you can place peace lily indoors near a window while avoiding direct sunlight. Yellowing of the leaves indicates that the light intensity may be too strong, and browning or streaking of leaves indicates that direct sunlight has burned the plant. In this case, consider placing the flowerpot about 1.8 to 2 m away from the window.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
When the spathes of peace lily wither gradually, the whole flower stems should be cut off. The yellow crumpled leaves should also be promptly cut off to avoid nutrient consumption and make space for new flowers and leaves. Additionally, rotten roots found during flowerpot changing should also be cut off.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Peace lily are native to tropical regions in Asia and America and like warm and moist environments. Their growth temperature range is 18 to 24 ℃. The optimum temperature is about 20 ℃, and the plant will be unable to grow or possibly survive at temperatures lower than 16 ℃. The relative air humidity should be higher than 40% and drought should be avoided. In winter, indoor humidity will drop sharply, so humidifiers can be used to increase it.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Peace lily like air-permeable, loose soil rich in organic matter because their native environment is tropical rain forests where soil contains rich organic matter. They can be planted in soil with a pH of 5.8-7, but weakly acidic soil is more suitable for their growth. Potting soil sold on the market can usually be used for planting. For self-prepared culture medium, the recommended formula is 1/3 loam + 1/3 sphagnum moss + 1/3 sandy soil. Additionally, perlite, bark fragments, or similar additions can increase the permeability of potting soil.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
As far as peace lily are concerned, the cutting method makes it difficult for stem segments to survive. Sowing is also unpopular because it is difficult to obtain peace lily seeds, which can only be obtained by artificial pollination after blooming. Furthermore, it takes about one year from pollination to seed maturation. After seed harvest, seeds should be sowed immediately in temperatures maintained at about 20 to 30 ℃; too-low temperatures may cause the seeds to rot.
Gardening enthusiasts can breed these plants by division propagation. However, to meet market demand, efficient plant tissue culture technology can also be applied to breed them in batches.
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Propagation

Peace lily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Peace lily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Peace lily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.

Peace lily provides a unique decoration for your garden and this plant is relatively easy to propagate. If you want to propagate more Peace lily, our article will show you the method. You can propagate this plant by division. You can divide your plants either during the spring or the fall. If you divide during the spring, you should do so earlier in the season to give your plant a better chance of adapting to the division before the summer heat arrives. The same is true during fall, as you should divide early enough to give your plant time to recover before the cold winter temperatures arrive. Dividing a plant is not difficult to do, but it is much easier to perform when you have the right tools available to you. Here is a basic list of what you’ll need:
  1. A digging shovel or a knife (preferable one with a pointed blade rather than a flat one)
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. A water source (garden hose, watering can, etc.)
Steps: Step 1: Use your shovel to dig around the entire parent plant and lift it out of the ground. Step 2: Loosen and separate the main roots to have a better idea of where to divide the plant. Step 3:You can just pull the above-ground part of the plant to separate Peace lily if it is easier. If the root system is tightly wound, use your shovel or knife to slice down through the root ball to divide the plant into two parts. Repeat if you have a large plant you wish to divide more than once. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol is required to sterilize the tools before use. Step 4: Wait for the wounds caused by plant division to dry, re-plant your parent plant in its original place. Transplant the divided portion to a new growing location.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
It is best to repot peace lily in spring every 1-2 years. Put a layer of ceramsite or pebbles at the bottom of the new flowerpot beforehand to avoid water accumulation and root rot. The new flowerpot diameter should be about 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the last flowerpot's, and should not be too large to avoid excessive water accumulation. Blooming will consume a large amount of nutrients. Therefore, in order to prevent early flower withering, use flower nutrient solution for irrigating the roots and spraying on leaf surfaces for better results.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

Transplanting

Cultivation:PottingSuggestions

Potting Suggestions

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
The prime time for transferring peace lily is typically early spring to mid-summer. This period, scientifically referred to as S2-S3, presents an ideal opportunity for root establishment with less stress. Transplants thrive best in a shady location with good drainage. Don't forget to water them well after moving, to help the plant settle.
Cultivation:PottingSuggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Peace lily grow faster and consume more water and nutrients in spring. It is important to observe soil moisture every day. When the soil is dry, it should be watered quickly, and balanced fertilizer can be applied once a month. In summer, high temperatures accelerate water evaporation. Therefore, in addition to the daily observation of soil moisture, humidifiers or sprayers should be used to increase indoor humidity.
In autumn and winter, the temperature drops. Water and fertilizer should be appropriately reduced, and fertilization can stop when the temperature is lower than 15 ℃.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical herbs like your plant are easy to care for throughout the year but require a little extra attention in the spring.

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Spring is the ideal time to repot root-bound plants and propagate new ones by cutting off some of the trailing vines.
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Water once every week or so when the soil is drying out and fertilize with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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3
Ensure the plant is receiving enough sunlight but be careful to not burn the leaves.
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Spring is also a good time for propagation. Carefully remove a green stem and place it in water. When roots appear, transplant the cutting to a container.

Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

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1
Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.
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2
Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
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Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.
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4
Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.
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New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.

As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

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Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer
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Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.
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You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.
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Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.
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5
However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.

This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

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At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.
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The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.
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It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Peace lily based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering
Flower withering  Flower withering  Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot  Leaf rot  Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up  Plant dried up  Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Poisoning from peace lily can be moderately toxic to dogs. The sap of these plants circulates calcium oxalate crystals throughout their leaves, stems, roots, and flowers. These crystals cause significant irritation when ingested, leading to a redness or burning of the mouth and throat, which may in turn lead to loss of appetite, pawing at the mouth, excessive drooling, and difficulty swallowing. Vomiting and diarrhea are also possible in more severe cases. Thankfully, dogs do not usually eat large quantities of these very distasteful plants.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
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If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
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More About Peace Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
60 to 150 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Green
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
1 to 1.8 m

Name story

Peace lily
The name is slightly misleading as the peace lily is not a true lily but an aroid, or member of the arum family. In Greek, “spath” means spoon, and “phyl” means leaf, so the name Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum refers to the leaf-like bract or spathe which is spoon-shaped.

Usages

Garden Use
The popular peace lily is collected as an indoor and outdoor ornamental by plant enthusiasts everywhere. It is valued for its prominent spathe leaves, shaped like one big flower petal or sail, which is highly attractive. Its flowers are also quite striking. In the outdoor garden, it serves well as a shaded border plant. It can be grown in containers both indoors and outdoors.
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Common Problems

Why are the peace lily leaves turning yellow or withering?

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Yellowing or withering leaves may be caused by strong sunlight, alkaline soil, excessive fertilizer, too little or too much water, long periods of drought or too-wet soil, poor drainage, permeability, and low-temperature injuries caused by open doors and windows or air conditioning and fans. For indoor care, the plant should be placed in a location with sufficient sunlight, but should not be exposed to direct sunlight. For weak, alkaline soil, acidity and alkalinity can be adjusted with rainwater. Cut off any seriously dry branches and leaves. If the soil is very dry, water it promptly and increase the air humidity. If there is sufficient water in the soil, no immediate watering is necessary. Appropriate sunlight and fertilizer should be offered according to the care guide. Low-temperature environments should be avoided, and plants should be kept away from air conditioning, fans, and similar appliances.

Why don't my peace lily ever bloom?

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Lack of blooming is caused by insufficient sunlight, water, or fertilizer, too-low temperatures, or extended use of tap water with high mineral salts. To combat this issue, increase sunlight and moisture, maintain the temperature at 18 to 24 ℃, supplement fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium contents (or purchase fertilizer specially designed for promoting flowering) and use rainwater or distilled water instead of tap water for watering.

Why are the spathes of my peace lily always green?

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The problem may be insufficient sunlight or fertilizer deficiency. Provide sufficient filtered light as needed, avoid overly dry or wet soil, and appropriately add fertilizer with a high phosphorus content to promote blooming.

How should I deal with root rot?

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Reduce water supply, repot or transplant the plant, and cut off rotten roots. Replace the soil with well-draining and permeable culture medium, and use suitable materials based on the recommendations in the care guide. Avoid overly wet soil and water accumulation, ensure smooth drainage at the bottom of the flowerpot, and avoid water accumulation in the tray. Pesticides may also be necessary according to plant symptoms, as detailed under the "Pests and Diseases" section.
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Caring for a New Plant

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The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
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1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
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Check Its Health

part
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
more
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
more
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
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Check Its Growing Conditions

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Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
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Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
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Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
10℃ to 35℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Partial sun, Full shade
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
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2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
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Water
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How Often Should I Water Peace Lily?
Twice per week
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Peace lily is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Peace lily is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full shade
Tolerance
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Peace lily thrives under conditions where there is moderate daily sun exposure, mimicking its original forest understory habitat. Excessive sun exposure can lead to leaf burn, while insufficient light may cause slower growth and fewer flowers. Different growth stages do not significantly alter its sun requirements.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Peace lily is a versatile plant that thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. Although symptoms of light deficiency may not be easily noticeable, inadequate light conditions can affect their growth indoors.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Peace lily may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Peace lily enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Peace lily thrives with partial sun exposure but is more prone to sunburn. The intense sunlight during summer can cause leaf sunburn, making it important to provide adequate shade and protection.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Peace lily is native to environments with tropic-like temperatures. It prefers warmth, thriving within the range of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). In colder seasons, consider increasing room temperature and avoiding draughts to maintain health.
Regional wintering strategies
Peace lily is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Peace lily indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Peace lily prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
High Temperature
During summer, Peace lily should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Peace Lily?
The prime time for transferring peace lily is typically early spring to mid-summer. This period, scientifically referred to as S2-S3, presents an ideal opportunity for root establishment with less stress. Transplants thrive best in a shady location with good drainage. Don't forget to water them well after moving, to help the plant settle.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Peace Lily?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Peace Lily?
Late spring to early summer is the optimal period for transplanting peace lily. This season offers the right balance of temperature and humidity, allowing roots to establish before cooler weather. Transplanting during this time encourages growth, enhances plant health and ensures robust blooms. A friendly advice- never delay the timing beyond mid-summer, you don't want to risk your peace lily headed into winter shocks!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Peace Lily Plants?
When transplanting peace lily, leave enough space for it to flourish. Ideally, you should aim for a spacing of 1.5-2.5 feet (45-76 cm) between each plant. This gives peace lily enough room to grow and spread out!
What is the Best Soil Mix for Peace Lily Transplanting?
For peace lily, it loves well-drained soil. Preparing a soil mix of equal parts peat moss, perlite, and garden soil is a good start. A general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer would also suit peace lily well!
Where Should You Relocate Your Peace Lily?
When it comes to finding a spot for peace lily, think about sunlight. This plant prefers partial shade or indirect sunlight. Look for a location that gets moderate sunlight, but avoids direct, harsh rays in the afternoon.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Peace Lily?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the plant and soil.
Spade or Trowel
For digging up the peace lily from its current location and preparing the new planting hole.
Wheelbarrow or Heavy-duty Tray
To safely transport the peace lily from its initial location to the new planting hole.
Watering Can or Garden Hose with a Spray Attachment
To water the peace lily thoroughly both before and after planting.
How Do You Remove Peace Lily from the Soil?
Step1 Hole Preparation

Dig a hole that is twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of the peace lily. This gives the roots space to spread in the new location.

Step2 Plant Placement

Carefully place the peace lily in the hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the ground surface. Avoid burying the stem or leaves.

Step3 Soil Backfill

Backfill the hole gently but firmly to eliminate air pockets and to give the plant stability.

Step4 Watering

Water the peace lily thoroughly and gently, focusing on the root zone to provide the needed moisture without soaking the foliage.

Step5 Mulching

(Optional) Apply a thin layer of organic mulch around the plant to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Peace Lily
Step1 Hole Preparation
Dig a hole that is twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of the peace lily. This gives the roots space to spread in the new location.
Step2 Plant Placement
Carefully place the peace lily in the hole so that the top of the root ball is level with the ground surface. Avoid burying the stem or leaves.
Step3 Soil Backfill
Backfill the hole gently but firmly to eliminate air pockets and to give the plant stability.
Step4 Watering
Water the peace lily thoroughly and gently, focusing on the root zone to provide the needed moisture without soaking the foliage.
Step5 Mulching
(Optional) Apply a thin layer of organic mulch around the plant to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
How Do You Care For Peace Lily After Transplanting?
Staking
If your peace lily is taller or unstable, consider supporting it with a plant stake. Do not tie it off too tight as it may damage the stem.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the plant’s overall appearance. If the leaves start to yellow or droop, it could be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure ample but not excessive watering.
Pruning
Remove any yellow or wilting leaves to save the plant's energy and promote new growth. Be cautious to not over prune as it could add additional stress to the plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Peace Lily Transplantation.
When is the ideal time to transplant peace lily?
The perfect period to transplant peace lily is during S2-S3, also known as mid to late growing season. Transplanting at this time promotes better growth.
What is the ideal spacing when transplanting peace lily?
For healthy development, maintain a gap of around 1.5-2.5 feet (45-75 cm) between each peace lily. This allows adequate growing room and air circulation.
What kind of soil is suitable for transplanting peace lily?
A well-drained, peat-based potting mix is ideal when transplanting peace lily. The plant appreciates slightly acidic to neutral pH levels.
What should I do if peace lily's leaves turn yellow after transplanting?
Yellow leaves could indicate overwatering or shock from transplanting. Reduce watering frequency and ensure proper draining. The plant should recover with time.
How deep should I plant peace lily during transplant?
You should plant peace lily at the same depth as its original pot. This mitigates the risk of root exposure or stem rot.
Why is the peace lily drooping after transplanting?
Drooping is often due to transplant shock, inconsistent watering, or heat stress. Maintain consistent watering and shield the plant from extreme temperature conditions.
How do I avoid transplant shock when moving peace lily?
Acclimatize peace lily to its new environment gradually. Before transplanting, place the plant in its new spot for few hours daily to get used to the conditions.
How much should I water peace lily after transplanting?
After transplanting, water peace lily thoroughly but avoid overwatering. The top inch (2.5 cm) of soil should be allowed to dry out between watering sessions.
Can I transplant the peace lily from its pot directly into the ground?
Yes, just ensure you transplant during S2-S3 stage and maintain a spacing of about 1.5-2.5 feet (45-75 cm) for optimum growth.
Do I need to prune peace lily before transplanting?
It's not necessary but removing older, yellowing leaves can redirect energy toward root and healthy leaf development which aids in successful transplantation.
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