Your Wild banana will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Wild banana. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Wild banana. However, the Wild banana usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to Care for Wild Banana
Wild banana (Strelitzia nicolai) is a tropical tree that will grow from 8 to 9 m tall. It has banana plant-type leaves and a palm-tree like trunk. It blooms in spring with unusual flowers that resemble a bird. The flower consists of a blue bract, white petals and a bluish-purple tongue. Flowers can be as big as 18 cm wide and 46 cm long.

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun






Basic Care Guide

Water
Wild banana is used to the warm and humid tropics, so please be generous and precise when watering them. If the plant is underwatered, the leaves furthest from the stem will turn yellow first. It's ideally to keep the substrate moist, but be sure your pot can be drained from the excess of water, as they do not like to be waterlogged. Water at least once a week, preferably twice, while winter watering can be cut in half. If overwatered, the leaves will turn brown.
Moreover, wild banana is used to high humidity climate, so you might need to mist the plant using a spray bottle on occasion, if the air in your home is dry. Rainwater is best, but soft, lukewarm regular water will suffice. During the dormancy period, it needs less watering (as to imitate the conditions of its natural environment).
Water
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What is the best way to water my Wild banana?
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What should I do if I water my Wild banana too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Wild banana can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Wild banana is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Wild banana, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Wild banana from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Wild banana in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Wild banana, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Wild banana?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Wild banana is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Wild banana. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Wild banana .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Wild banana need?
When it comes time to water your Wild banana, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Wild banana by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Wild banana gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Wild banana is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Wild banana is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Wild banana a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Wild banana enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Wild banana, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Wild banana will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Wild banana will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Wild banana.
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How can I water my Wild banana at different growth stages?
When the Wild banana is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Wild banana that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Wild banana can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Wild banana is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Wild banana through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Wild banana. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Wild banana will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Wild banana indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Wild banana may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Fertilizer
To speed up the flowering process and give your wild banana vigor, additional nourishment should be applied. In nature, wild banana receives the extra organic matter from decaying plant litter layer being dissolved by the rainwater. So mulching is a good idea and a great way to provide this.
You can use any organic materials such as leaves, pine needles wood chips or bark to create a 5 to 7 cm deep mulch layer. Just be sure to leave a 6 cm mulch-free zone around the base of the plant.
It is best to use a normally balanced liquid-type fertilizer, with an equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio (N:P:K=1:1:1). Natural manure makes for the perfect organic fertilizing option for your wild banana. Apply fertilizer twice a month during the growing season and reduce it to once a month during the winter dormancy. Always follow the manufacturer-recommended dosage, when applying fertilizer.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Wild banana?
You need to fertilize a Wild banana for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Wild banana produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Wild banana has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Wild banana plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Wild banana some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Wild banana hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Wild banana?
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Wild banana. If you use fertilizer too early while the Wild banana is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Wild banana?
Avoid giving Wild banana a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients.
Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Wild banana should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Wild banana can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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What type of fertilizer does my Wild banana need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Wild banana is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Wild banana 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Wild banana. However, some of the best fertilizers for Wild banana come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Wild banana.
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How do I fertilize my Wild banana?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Wild banana you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Wild banana, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Wild banana too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Wild banana may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Wild banana will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Wild banana to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Sunlight
Wild banana needs a lot of sunlight to bloom. Most important is to keep in mind that if the plant is kept in the shade, it will not flower or it might significantly slow the process of blooming. You should place your plant on a spot that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily but not if the direct midday sun is too strong. During the summer, you can move your plant outside to increase natural sunlight but again, it needs to be shaded and partially protected if the sun is too strong.


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How much/long should Wild banana get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Wild banana receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Wild banana need?
Wild banana does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Wild banana? How to protect Wild banana from the sun and heat damage?
Wild banana planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Wild banana during extreme weather events.
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Does Wild banana need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Wild banana from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Wild banana, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Wild banana to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Wild banana gets inadequate sunlight?
When Wild banana receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Wild banana receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Wild banana need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Wild banana and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Wild banana fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Wild banana?
Recently transplanted Wild banana will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Wild banana drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Wild banana that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
When performed properly, pruning is very beneficial to your wild banana because removing dead or infected leaves and flowers increase the overall health of the plant, reduces the chance of infections and improves the aesthetic appearance. Dead flowers are pretty easy to spot in the bush, as they will start to lose their vibrant colors and turn to brown. It is ok to remove even several dead blooms at once because this will extend the bloom life of the remaining flowers.
It is important to remove all dead leaves as the plant will not shed them by itself. Be sure to cut them as close to the base as possible to prevent any root spread. Just keep in mind that the leaf surfaces can sometimes be ripped even by the slightest touch, but those leaves are healthy and should not be removed until they start to show signs of discoloration or infection. Remember to always wear thick gloves and to disinfect the pruners before you move to the next plant in order to minimize the risks of cross-contamination.

How can I prune my Wild banana?
Pruning your Wild banana is a fairly simple process. First, you will need a reliable set of hand pruners or hedge trimmers. You may use a clean pair of sharp scissors if you don’t have pruners or garden shears on hand. It’s important to always clean your gardening tools before and after using them to prevent the possibility of spreading disease or infection to other plants. To prune your Wild banana simply allow your plant to go dormant over the Winter. Some time between late winter and early spring – or when new growth starts to appear – take your clean pruners or trimmers and cut away any dying, damaged, yellow or declining foliage. Repeat this process until you reach the base of the plant or until there are no dead pieces left to cut. When pruning, be careful not to damage the new growth that may be emerging near the base of your plant. These parts cannot be restored and pruning can increase the ventilation of the plants and facilitate their growth. Any pruning that is done to this plant should be cut straight across the blades or stems. No angled cuts are required. Diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Wild banana is growing.
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What should I do after pruning my Wild banana?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Wild banana a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. Do not water the Wild banana immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new growth.
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How can I prune my Wild banana during different seasons?
Early spring and late winter are the best times to prune your Wild banana on a large scale. If you want to control the size of your Wild banana, you can prune them as you wish, but be careful not to prune more than a third of the size of the plant. Yellow and diseased leaves may appear during the summer months when the Wild banana is growing vigorously and these types of leaves need to be pruned back immediately. These parts of the Wild banana cannot be restored and pruning increases the ventilation of the plant and facilitates its growth.
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When should I prune my Wild banana through different stages of growth?
Strategic pruning is usually done at different times of the year or during certain stages of growth depending on the plant. However, knowing when to prune your Wild banana depends on where you live and how established your plant is. For example, if your Wild banana is a new resident, it’s a good idea to wait until the plant starts to grow back before you start pruning. On the other hand, if your plant is already established, you will want to prune the dry or dead parts in plant before new leafy growth appears in early spring or late winter. This is the time of year when plants are dormant and pruning causes the least damage to them. This is also the best time of year to do more extensive pruning. It’s important to note that if Wild banana is pruned too late in the season, it can leave new growth at risk for damage or disease. However, if your Wild banana is indoors this is not a problem and you can prune at any time. Since this can affect the long-term health and appearance of your plant, it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding when and how to prune. As your Wild banana grows larger over time, you can trim it as needed after annual pruning. Dead, damaged, or diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Wild banana is growing.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Wild banana originates from Southern Africa, enjoys plenty of moisture and does not tolerate harsh cold temperature well. It’s characterized as a tropical plant, so unless you live in warmer areas, it is best to keep it as a house plant during the winter. It is an evergreen plant, but goes through a period of winter dormancy.
During the growing season, it requires optimal 18 to 21 ℃ to grow the healthiest during the day and down to 10 ℃ at night. If it is below 10 ℃ it will likely not flower and temperatures below freezing may even damage the plant. Since it’s a tropical plant with large-surface leaves it evaporates a lot of moisture and thus requires a lot of water in return.

What is the optimal temperature for Wild banana?
Colder temperatures can affect plants since they have the same temperature as the air around them. When they are exposed to the sun, they can start to get warm again, but this is not the case during winter. The temperature range for the Wild banana is often 70~85℉(21~30℃). They might tolerate 20~30℉(-6~0℃) even 15℉(-10℃), but not for long since this can result in frost damage. Maximum temperatures should be around 70~85℉(21~30℃), but make sure that you spray them with water from time to time and give them some shade to prevent wilting.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Wild banana during different growing phases?
Do some research and make sure that the temperature is right when growing Wild banana. Some growers might consider decreasing the plants' thermostats during the growing season to reduce HVAC costs. However, it's vital to understand that the temperature can affect the flowering, pest management, and quality of the plants.
There will be a temperature point where the Wild banana will stop growing, and this can happen during the winter when some species might go into a dormant state. The base temperature becomes warmer when the season changes and the Wild banana can grow faster. The species that are naturally growing in warm habitats have higher optimum temperatures when you compare them to the ones that thrive in a cooler climate.
When the seeds of Wild banana are exposed to cool temperatures, this can cause a decrease in uniformity and delays. You might also want to lower the temperature during flowering but not at other phases. Cooler temperatures at night will also require less water, so adjust the irrigation as needed.
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How can I keep Wild banana warm in cold seasons?
Stop fertilizing the plant to avoid new growth and allow the old ones to become hardy. This way, they can endure colder temperature when it begins to drop. To keep them warm, you can build structures around the Wild banana like cages or trellises. There are also options to use heat mats that can gently warm the soil since they can consistently maintain an ideal temperature range for the Wild banana.
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How can I save Wild banana from temperature damage?
During winter, you can protect the Wild banana from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets. Make sure to keep them down so they continue to act as insulators and the wind will not blow them away. However, ensure that the plastic sheets or burlap covers should not touch any part of the fruit or foliage, or the cold temperatures can transfer to the material and cause burns. When the temperatures begin to rise during the daytime, remove the covers.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Wild banana in different seasons?
When growing the Wild banana in spring, you might want to increase humidity since the air temperature tends to be cooler at this time. A dry temperature can be a stressful growing environment for various species, which can help. If summer arrives, the large cover of the greenhouse and the warm temperature will mean that there will be a higher humidity level in the air. Some signs to look for are the condensation that is often found on the walls of the greenhouse, and this can cause issues with pollination and the development of infections when the water begins to fall on the leaves. Make adjustments according to the temperature and do some spraying during the hotter days of the year.
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What damage will Wild banana suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Generally, the first cold snap can destroy the Wild banana and others might go into a dormant state when the temperature is low. Some plants can get chilled when the temperatures range from 20~30℉(-6~0℃). They can freeze when the temperature begins to drop below 32℉(0℃). Those species that hide most of their parts under the soil might lose their structures above ground, but they can recover in spring. Some of the associated issues with too low temperatures are the lack of availability of resources like water, and nutrients, and those subtropical plants can suffer when the temperature reaches below 20℉(-6℃). The plants can also get damaged because of extreme heat stress when it's too high. This can reduce the transpiration rate that can affect the growth and productivity of Wild banana.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Wild banana?
You need to cover the plants at night since these can add about 5 degrees more to protect the species from frost and freezing temperatures. The cloth rows can work well as blankets and ensure that there are no openings where the heat could escape.
When using the covers, avoid the plastic from touching the foliage because this can cause the Wild banana to freeze. Remember to keep the covers during the day and stop using heat pads during the summer. It will always be worth the effort to protect the cold-intolerant plants from freezing temperatures to help them survive.
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How can I keep Wild banana warm without a heat pad?
If you prefer not to use a heat pad, bring the Wild banana inside, especially if it's freezing outdoors. During spring, consider the ones you need to bring indoors and plant them in moveable pots and containers.
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How can I provide Wild banana with an adequate temperature condition?
Most often, the ones caring for the Wild banana will grow them in greenhouses. This is because they can provide adequate temperature in these areas that won't affect the photosynthesis process of a specific process.
Some install the proper HVAC systems to control the temperatures of Wild banana. This can handle many species' cooling and heating needs, especially during the summer and winter. They generally place the cooling or heating pad under the plants rather than above to achieve their desired temperatures.
If outdoors, you can protect the Wild banana from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Wild banana?
Heat mats are often left on Wild banana to set the temperatures at a more consistent level. When the weather becomes warmer during the day, you can remove them, especially if the species are exposed to the sun. Put the pads away once the plants are established and when they start growing flowers and fruits.
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Soil
Wild banana requires well-drained, rich potting mix soil. It will grow in a variety of soil, but prefers it slightly acidic (pH 6.1-6.5). It will achieve its best growth in fertile soil, enhanced with additional organic matter such as compost. It is also smart to mulch the growing container as this will benefit the plant in many ways. Very important to avoid accumulated water in the soil which may cause its root system to rot.


Propagation

Planting
Propagation of wild banana is easily done by the division of the plant fleshy root. Propagation should be performed during the early springtime.
Take out the plant from the container and use your hands and a garden hose (not a strong stream) to remove the soil from the fleshy root until all roots are visible. Then carefully pull apart the parts of fleshy root in a way that each part contains a stem. You can also use a sharp knife, if the fleshy root will not break apart, just make sure that the knife has been properly disinfected and make sure you do not cut any roots or stems.
Consider applying some rooting hormone (easily available in most garden stores) before you place each division into a separate container, from which a new plant will sprout.
Propagation
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From five species in the genus, two are grown as house plants; Strelitzia reginae (the Crane Bird plant), which is the smaller one of the two and has orange flowers and the Strelitzia nicolai (the Giant White Bird of Paradise) also called the Wild Banana with the white flowers. Both require similar growing conditions, with the difference that the Crane Bird handles colder temperatures better.
They can be grown from the seeds; however, it might take at least 3-5 years to flower. Furthermore, the fresher the seeds, the sooner it will flower, because the more they get older, the seeds develop a coating which delays germination. Also, the seed is stronger if harvested from the plant which is in its first flowering seasons. Get rid of the orange tufts from the seeds, immerse them in lukewarm water for a day before sowing them in the potting soil. The seed should germinate in 2-3 months.
Only when the seedlings grow 3-5 leaves, transplant them to the individual pots. Do not plant the seed too deep into the soil, because it might delay the flowering process. It is going to require repotting every 2-3 years (springtime is the best time for this), and increase the container size every time you repot.


Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.

2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.

3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Wild banana based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.



Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.

Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!

Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Wild Banana

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
3.5 m

Leaf Color
Green
Silver

Flower Size
45 cm

Plant Height
6 m
Name story
Bird-of-paradise -tree||Giant bird-of-paradise flower||Giant white bird of paradise||Giant bird-of-paradise tree||Natal bird-of-paradise flower||Giant white bird of paradise tree||White bird-of-paradise tree||White bird of paradise||Natal wild banana||Wild banana
Strelitzia nicolai is widely known as wild banana. This common name was derived from the appearance of its flower, which really looks like an exotic bird. The other common name, Wild banana, refers to its banana-shaped leaves and the growth form similar to that of a banana tree.
Usages
Garden Use
Fast-growing, robust, and decorative, wild banana is an interesting massive background plant for a tropical or subtropical garden. Because of its large banana-like leaves, it can be used within wallside borders. Also, its bird-like flowers can make it an exciting addition to tropical cut flower gardens. Although massive when planted in the soil, wild banana can still survive and thrive as a patio container plant.

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Common Problems
I’ve noticed the yellowing of some leaves on my wild banana, what might be the reason?


If your indoor wild banana is showing signs of discoloration, it might be a sign of lacking light. Because these are tropical plants, they are used to having a lot of suns. Try moving your wild banana to a brighter spot in the room (possibly where it can receive at least six hours of sunlight) or consider setting up a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb over the plant to increase the lighting. Also, this might be a sign of water deficiency, so be sure to be generous with water, especially during the growing season.
Some leaves are curling on my wild banana, why is this happening?


Also, check the temperature in your room, as the plant might be doing this as a protective reaction to cold. Too alkaline or base soil pH can induce leaf curling as well. If the plant is overcrowded, the leaves might also curl, so it may be time to repot. And lastly, this might be a sign of an infestation of certain plant pests or a pathogen, so carefully check every leaf for signs of infestation or feeding damages.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ





How to Care for Wild Banana
Wild banana (Strelitzia nicolai) is a tropical tree that will grow from 8 to 9 m tall. It has banana plant-type leaves and a palm-tree like trunk. It blooms in spring with unusual flowers that resemble a bird. The flower consists of a blue bract, white petals and a bluish-purple tongue. Flowers can be as big as 18 cm wide and 46 cm long.

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Wild banana is used to the warm and humid tropics, so please be generous and precise when watering them. If the plant is underwatered, the leaves furthest from the stem will turn yellow first. It's ideally to keep the substrate moist, but be sure your pot can be drained from the excess of water, as they do not like to be waterlogged. Water at least once a week, preferably twice, while winter watering can be cut in half. If overwatered, the leaves will turn brown.
Moreover, wild banana is used to high humidity climate, so you might need to mist the plant using a spray bottle on occasion, if the air in your home is dry. Rainwater is best, but soft, lukewarm regular water will suffice. During the dormancy period, it needs less watering (as to imitate the conditions of its natural environment).

Water
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Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What is the best way to water my Wild banana?

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How often should I water my Wild banana?

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Fertilizer

To speed up the flowering process and give your wild banana vigor, additional nourishment should be applied. In nature, wild banana receives the extra organic matter from decaying plant litter layer being dissolved by the rainwater. So mulching is a good idea and a great way to provide this.
You can use any organic materials such as leaves, pine needles wood chips or bark to create a 5 to 7 cm deep mulch layer. Just be sure to leave a 6 cm mulch-free zone around the base of the plant.
It is best to use a normally balanced liquid-type fertilizer, with an equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio (N:P:K=1:1:1). Natural manure makes for the perfect organic fertilizing option for your wild banana. Apply fertilizer twice a month during the growing season and reduce it to once a month during the winter dormancy. Always follow the manufacturer-recommended dosage, when applying fertilizer.

Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Wild banana?

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When should I avoid fertilizing my Wild banana?

What type of fertilizer does my Wild banana need?

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Sunlight

Wild banana needs a lot of sunlight to bloom. Most important is to keep in mind that if the plant is kept in the shade, it will not flower or it might significantly slow the process of blooming. You should place your plant on a spot that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily but not if the direct midday sun is too strong. During the summer, you can move your plant outside to increase natural sunlight but again, it needs to be shaded and partially protected if the sun is too strong.

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Pruning

When performed properly, pruning is very beneficial to your wild banana because removing dead or infected leaves and flowers increase the overall health of the plant, reduces the chance of infections and improves the aesthetic appearance. Dead flowers are pretty easy to spot in the bush, as they will start to lose their vibrant colors and turn to brown. It is ok to remove even several dead blooms at once because this will extend the bloom life of the remaining flowers.
It is important to remove all dead leaves as the plant will not shed them by itself. Be sure to cut them as close to the base as possible to prevent any root spread. Just keep in mind that the leaf surfaces can sometimes be ripped even by the slightest touch, but those leaves are healthy and should not be removed until they start to show signs of discoloration or infection. Remember to always wear thick gloves and to disinfect the pruners before you move to the next plant in order to minimize the risks of cross-contamination.
How can I prune my Wild banana?

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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Wild banana originates from Southern Africa, enjoys plenty of moisture and does not tolerate harsh cold temperature well. It’s characterized as a tropical plant, so unless you live in warmer areas, it is best to keep it as a house plant during the winter. It is an evergreen plant, but goes through a period of winter dormancy.
During the growing season, it requires optimal 18 to 21 ℃ to grow the healthiest during the day and down to 10 ℃ at night. If it is below 10 ℃ it will likely not flower and temperatures below freezing may even damage the plant. Since it’s a tropical plant with large-surface leaves it evaporates a lot of moisture and thus requires a lot of water in return.
What is the optimal temperature for Wild banana?

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Soil

Wild banana requires well-drained, rich potting mix soil. It will grow in a variety of soil, but prefers it slightly acidic (pH 6.1-6.5). It will achieve its best growth in fertile soil, enhanced with additional organic matter such as compost. It is also smart to mulch the growing container as this will benefit the plant in many ways. Very important to avoid accumulated water in the soil which may cause its root system to rot.

Propagation

Planting

Propagation of wild banana is easily done by the division of the plant fleshy root. Propagation should be performed during the early springtime.
Take out the plant from the container and use your hands and a garden hose (not a strong stream) to remove the soil from the fleshy root until all roots are visible. Then carefully pull apart the parts of fleshy root in a way that each part contains a stem. You can also use a sharp knife, if the fleshy root will not break apart, just make sure that the knife has been properly disinfected and make sure you do not cut any roots or stems.
Consider applying some rooting hormone (easily available in most garden stores) before you place each division into a separate container, from which a new plant will sprout.

Propagation
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From five species in the genus, two are grown as house plants; Strelitzia reginae (the Crane Bird plant), which is the smaller one of the two and has orange flowers and the Strelitzia nicolai (the Giant White Bird of Paradise) also called the Wild Banana with the white flowers. Both require similar growing conditions, with the difference that the Crane Bird handles colder temperatures better.
They can be grown from the seeds; however, it might take at least 3-5 years to flower. Furthermore, the fresher the seeds, the sooner it will flower, because the more they get older, the seeds develop a coating which delays germination. Also, the seed is stronger if harvested from the plant which is in its first flowering seasons. Get rid of the orange tufts from the seeds, immerse them in lukewarm water for a day before sowing them in the potting soil. The seed should germinate in 2-3 months.
Only when the seedlings grow 3-5 leaves, transplant them to the individual pots. Do not plant the seed too deep into the soil, because it might delay the flowering process. It is going to require repotting every 2-3 years (springtime is the best time for this), and increase the container size every time you repot.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.

2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.

3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Wild banana based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More

Scars



Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More

Aged yellow and dry



Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More


Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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unlimited guides at your fingertips...
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.

Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!

Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
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unlimited guides at your fingertips...
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.

Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.

Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.

Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.

Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.

Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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More About Wild Banana

Plant Type
Tree

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
3.5 m

Leaf Color
Green
Silver

Flower Size
45 cm

Plant Height
6 m
Name story
Bird-of-paradise -tree||Giant bird-of-paradise flower||Giant white bird of paradise||Giant bird-of-paradise tree||Natal bird-of-paradise flower||Giant white bird of paradise tree||White bird-of-paradise tree||White bird of paradise||Natal wild banana||Wild banana
Strelitzia nicolai is widely known as wild banana. This common name was derived from the appearance of its flower, which really looks like an exotic bird. The other common name, Wild banana, refers to its banana-shaped leaves and the growth form similar to that of a banana tree.
Usages
Garden Use
Fast-growing, robust, and decorative, wild banana is an interesting massive background plant for a tropical or subtropical garden. Because of its large banana-like leaves, it can be used within wallside borders. Also, its bird-like flowers can make it an exciting addition to tropical cut flower gardens. Although massive when planted in the soil, wild banana can still survive and thrive as a patio container plant.

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Common Problems
I’ve noticed the yellowing of some leaves on my wild banana, what might be the reason?


If your indoor wild banana is showing signs of discoloration, it might be a sign of lacking light. Because these are tropical plants, they are used to having a lot of suns. Try moving your wild banana to a brighter spot in the room (possibly where it can receive at least six hours of sunlight) or consider setting up a full-spectrum fluorescent bulb over the plant to increase the lighting. Also, this might be a sign of water deficiency, so be sure to be generous with water, especially during the growing season.
Some leaves are curling on my wild banana, why is this happening?


Also, check the temperature in your room, as the plant might be doing this as a protective reaction to cold. Too alkaline or base soil pH can induce leaf curling as well. If the plant is overcrowded, the leaves might also curl, so it may be time to repot. And lastly, this might be a sign of an infestation of certain plant pests or a pathogen, so carefully check every leaf for signs of infestation or feeding damages.


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