You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Common lilac prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ
How to care Common Lilac
Common lilac is a shrub native to the Balkan Peninsula that blooms with a fragrant blossom. It grows on rocky terrain and has a suckering habit. The blossoms are used to flavor honey, sugars, food, and other delights and farmed for its fragrant flowers in the spring.


Symbolism
Exorcism, Protection, renewal, the coming of spring

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun





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Basic Care Guide

Water
Common lilac requires well-drained soil. Sufficient water should be maintained in the soil to nourish the root system. On the other hand, the soil should smoothly discharge rainwater when it rains. Before planting, a hole about 20 cm in diameter and 30 cm deep should be dug and then filled with water to test soil drainage.
If the water has not drained after an hour, consider other planting sites. If it rains less than 2.5 cm a week, common lilac needs to be watered. Make sure the soil completely dries between waterings. Overwatering can affect blooming, and too little water can cause the leaves to wither or twist.
Water
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What's the best method to water my Common lilac?
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What should I do if I water Common lilac too much/too little?
An overwatered Common lilac can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Common lilac recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Common lilac indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Common lilac outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Common lilac?
The Common lilac likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Common lilac generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Common lilac?
The Common lilac generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Common lilac is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Common lilac is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Common lilac continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Common lilac a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Common lilac according to different seasons or climates?
The Common lilac needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Common lilac to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Common lilac will need less water during the winter. Since the Common lilac will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Common lilac growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Common lilac can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Common lilac and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Common lilac’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Common lilac’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Common lilac in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Common lilac mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Common lilac in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Common lilac begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Common lilac important?
Watering the Common lilac helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Common lilac thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
After transplanting, no fertilizer or just a small amount of fertilizer is required. Do not apply excessive fertilizer. In particular, do not apply too much fertilizer rich in nitrogen, which can cause spindling of flower branches, affect flower bud formation, and reduce the number of flowers. The application of an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer and a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer after blooming is beneficial to its growth and development.
Apply fertilizer in early spring once a year. Lay a layer of compost at the plant base, and add 5 to 10 cm of cover on the soil surface to prevent weeds and keep the soil moist.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Common lilac?
You need to fertilize a Common lilac for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Common lilac produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Common lilac has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Common lilac plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Common lilac some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Common lilac hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Common lilac?
Timing is crucial when it comes to fertilizing Common lilac. If you use fertilizer too early while the Common lilac is still dormant at this time. This fertilizer cannot be used effectively and will be washed away by rainwater, causing waste and pollution. The first application of fertilizer should be applied in the early spring. Continue fertilizing once a month until early summer.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Common lilac?
Avoid giving Common lilac a fertilizer with too much nitrogen, since this can lead to development of plenty of leaves but not many blooms. Look for fertilizer with a lower level of nitrogen compared to other nutrients.
Do not fertilize after the early autumn, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Common lilac should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.
Finally, remember that Common lilac can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving tree/shurb a double-dose of fertilizer.
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What type of fertilizer does my Common lilac need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Common lilac is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Common lilac 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Some experienced gardeners will supplement 1-2 times with water-soluble fertilizers containing phosphorus when the flower buds start to appear. This will help the flowers develop better and allow them to grow larger and bloom longer.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Common lilac. However, some of the best fertilizers for Common lilac come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Common lilac.
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How do I fertilize my Common lilac?
Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Common lilac you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Common lilac, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound.
Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.
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What happens if I fertilize my Common lilac too much?
It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Common lilac may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the tree. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Common lilac will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much flowers since nitrogen supports foliage growth.
If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Common lilac to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.
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Sunlight
Common lilac likes sufficient sunlight, and 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day will ensure vigorous growth and blooms. Without sufficient sunlight, the growth is slow and barely bloom, or not at all.


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How much/long should Common lilac get sunlight per day for healthy growth?
For healthy growth, make sure that Common lilac receives at least 3–6 hours of sun each day. This is actually a minimum requirement—most plants that can handle part sun can also thrive in full sun, but because they require less light for photosynthesis, they are more flexible than plants that require full sun or part shade.
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What type of sunlight does Common lilac need?
Common lilac does best with exposure to full or part sun. They will perform best with direct morning light, but in summer they need protection from the strong afternoon sun. In temperate environments, too much hot afternoon sun can burn the leaves, damaging the plant's appearance and health.
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Can sunlight damage Common lilac? How to protect Common lilac from the sun and heat damage?
Common lilac planted indoors can easily be damaged by direct sunlight when it's moved outdoors. The best way to prevent sunburns from overexposure is to move pots gradually from a shaded area to a brighter spot, gradually. But even plants that are acclimated to the summer sun can be damaged by extreme heat. In a heatwave, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist so that plants can cope with excessive levels of heat. Moving plants in containers to areas with afternoon shade or erecting a shade cloth over them can protect sensitive Common lilac during extreme weather events.
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Does Common lilac need to avoid sun exposure? / Should I protect Common lilac from the sun?
While bright morning sun and some full sun exposure can be highly beneficial for Common lilac, the harsh, hot midday sun of summer can be too much to handle.
If planted in the ground, the summer sun will usually ramp up slowly enough through the season for Common lilac to gradually adapt to its intensity. But a potted plant that has been indoors or in a protected location will often suffer injury when placed suddenly into a location where the direct summer sun reaches it in the hottest part of the day.
To protect this plant from the brutal afternoon summer sun, plant or place it in an understory location where it is shaded at midday by taller trees and plants or by a building or landscape feature.
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What will happen if Common lilac gets inadequate sunlight?
When Common lilac receives too little sun, they may become pale green or display drooping, yellow leaves. While some leaf drop is normal, if leaves are dropping but no new ones are growing in to replace them, it is a sign that something is wrong. If Common lilac receiving inadequate light does manage to grow, the new growth is often spindly, pale, and prone to insect infestation. Paying attention to these signs and changing the lighting conditions of the plant will make a significant difference.
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Does Common lilac need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Tender, new leaves are especially sensitive to sunburn. Bearing this in mind, very young Common lilac and when it's in a strong growth phase, such as in late spring and early summer, will be more sensitive to harsh sun and heat than the mature one or those in a more dormant fall growth stage. Common lilac fresh from a nursery is also usually not prepared for strong full sunlight and must be introduced to it slowly.
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Are there any cautions or tips for sunlight and Common lilac?
Recently transplanted Common lilac will often experience a bit of shock and will need to be cared for carefully, either shaded from bright afternoon sun or placed in a protected area. On very hot days, you may see the leaves of Common lilac drooping—this is usually nothing to worry about. Plants will send the water in their leaves down into their roots to protect them from burning. However, if the leaves are still drooping in the evening or the next morning, the plant needs water. Always avoid watering during the hottest times of day, as sunlight can hit wet leaves and scorch them easily.
Common lilac that has been underwatered will be weaker than that with consistently moist soil. This can leave it with weak roots that are unable to protect the leaves on hot, sunny summer days by diverting water away from the leaves. Care for an underwatered plant by giving it a long, deep watering and then allowing the top two inches of soil to dry out before the next watering. Even if it loses its leaves, if cared for properly it will grow new ones.
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Pruning
Pruning is essential for common lilac, because it promotes blooming, ensures air circulation, and prevents problems such as powdery mildew. Prune the plant every year to keep it in its shrub form. If it is not pruned, it will grow to 4.5 to 6 m, and the blooms will gather at the plant top. Because very young and old branches do not bloom well, regular pruning is required to keep it blooming beautifully every year.
Generally, branches with a diameter of 5 cm or more should be pruned off. Prune less than 1/3 of all branches and keep 8-12 branches of different ages with a diameter of 2.5 to 5 cm. Finally, maintain the plant at 2.5 m tall or less.
Old, dead, and diseased branches, and most seedlings growing from the roots, can be cut from the base after blooming at the end of winter or late spring. The old branches are usually coarse, with weak blooming ability. Dead and diseased branches will not grow new buds or flowers in spring. Keep 2-3 strong seedlings as new branches. Any branches that disturb the tree shape or are twisted can be pruned at the same time.
If you do not need to harvest the seeds of the common lilac, cut blooms off when they begin to fade and droop. this prevents nutrient use for fruit development, and next year's flower buds will be stronger. When the center of the tree is overcrowded, choose the thickest stem and cut it off at the base to improve sunlight and ventilation inside the shrub.
If your common lilac is old, overgrown, or blooming poorly, the whole plant can be pruned to 15 to 20 cm tall. It will not bloom for three years, but the number of flowers will increase significantly.

Does my Common lilac need to be pruned?
While one could technically let the Common lilac go without pruning, the form and health of the Common lilac may suffer, and will end up looking quite shaggy and unorganized. Common lilac is grown for its attractive flowers. While not strictly necessary, many people prefer to prune this plant every year or two to encourage flowering and to maintain an attractive appearance and keep your Common lilac in great shape. Pruning not only helps the Common lilac relieve itself of burdens like dead wood and disease, but it also gives you the creative ability to style the Common lilac in a way that works for you!
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When is the best time to prune my Common lilac?
As Common lilac blooms earlier than normal plants, pruning should also be earlier. What you should do instead is wait until the late spring or early summer to prune if you want to prune your Common lilac on a large scale. The ideal time for pruning takes place at the end or just after this plant’s bloom period. Also, you should avoid pruning late in summer and into fall, pruning at this time may affect the flowering of plants the following year. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head. The plants need to be completely cleaned up after the leaves have fallen to avoid decaying and breeding pests and diseases.
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How can I prune my Common lilac?
To prune the Common lilac, first identify how the Common lilac has grown thus far. It can either look bushy, like a shrub, or it can have one or more trunks that stem up from the ground with foliage in the top quadrant. If you have a bushy Common lilac and you like it that way, then you can simply trim just as you would an average shrub, by removing new growths at equal heights just above a leaf node. For taller Common lilac, there’s a little more to it. Identify the look you want first. If all you’re looking for is a quick prune and done, then all you really need to do is cut back any growth that is growing towards the inside of the canopy, as well as any “suckers”, or stems that grow below the canopy line. In this case, it is necessary to prune in winter, giving priority to the reduction of dead and dry branches. Afterwards, the crossed and parallel branches are pruned off, which increases the space for other branches to grow. In this case, it is necessary to prune in winter, giving priority to the reduction of dead and dry branches. Afterwards, the crossed and parallel branches are pruned off, which will increase the space for other branches to grow. If what you need is to take off some serious area, then more planning is in line. Common lilac branch out in a fan fashion from the center trunk, and each branch will have its own branches that grow from them, as well. Try to take off branches that are pointing downward at their bases, but avoid cutting too much away from each secondary branch. From here, you can do some milder pruning around the areas where you removed branches in order to clean up the look and blend in the newly trimmed sections. Never trim off so much that no secondary branches are left from the main trunk; Common lilac can tolerate this, but it takes years for them to recover fully. All these prunings need to be done after flowering so as not to interfere with Common lilac flowering. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head. The plants need to be completely cleaned up after the leaves have fallen to avoid decaying and breeding pests and diseases.
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What should I do after pruning my Common lilac?
You can take a few extra steps to make sure that your pruning is both successful and healthy. As with most woody, flowering Common lilac, Common lilac should be spoiled with a little extra water over the following week so that it has the means to heal its wounds. Common lilac is a tough cookie, so it can take care of itself for the most part after the annual snipping. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Common lilac a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. If you have other plants or Common lilac nearby that are affected by diseases such as fungi or pests, you can also apply honey to the wounds just after pruning to create a sort of natural bandage.
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What techniques and tips should I use when pruning my Common lilac?
Pruning the Common lilac should be saved until the Common lilac is mature, or has at least one thick stem or trunk that other, smaller branches grow from. That being said, you can train younger Common lilac to grow in a style that you like by snipping off new growths at the base of the Common lilac where it meets the ground. Here’s a general idea of how to get started pruning your Common lilac. Tools For pruning, you’ll of course need some sort of clippers. Loppers are best for thicker branches, while hand pruners will usually get the job done on smaller branches that are less than the thickness of your average pencil. You’ll also need a good pair of gloves, as well as some sort of protective eyewear. Pruning can sometimes get a little pokey, so you want to make sure that none of the stray branches or debris end up in your eyes.
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What are the common issues that I should be aware of when pruning my Common lilac?
One of the most common issues with Common lilac is overgrowth. Once they get unruly, it can be tricky to get them to look their best again. In some situations, it may be best to cut away everything except for secondary branches- those that grow from the main stem or trunk- and henceforth only trim back new branches liberally until your Common lilac regains its shape.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
plants of genus Syringa are mainly distributed in the subtropical and temperate zone, where the environment is warmer, and also grows at high elevation. Some varieties can tolerate high temperatures, but the ornamental effect is decreased. Different species and varieties have different bloom times, extending from mid-spring to early summer. It does not have strict water requirements and is resistant to drought.

What is the optimal temperature for Common lilac?
The best temperature for Common lilac to thrive is 65~80℉(18~27℃). During the primary growing phase, the highest temperature tolerable would be 95℉(35℃), while the lowest tolerable temperature would be 15℉(-10℃). This species is tolerant of low temperatures and will survive freezing winters. The perfect, highest, and lowest temperature range:
Perfect:65~80℉(18~27℃)
Highest:85~95℉(30~35℃)
Lowest:-5~15℉(-20~-10℃) or below
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Should I adjust the temperature for Common lilac during different growing phases?
Research shows that Common lilac will begin to exhibit signs of stunted growth during prolonged periods of higher temperatures, especially during the development of axillary buds and the growth of main shoots. Keeping the temperatures consistent and cooler, around 65℉(18℃), will encourage vigorous growth after germination or transplanting.
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How can I keep Common lilac warm in cold seasons?
Common lilac can withstand freezing temperatures when planted in the ground in areas that don’t get below of 15℉(-10℃) as an extreme temperature during the winter months. But if planted in pots or containers, then their roots must be protected from the winter cold. Do this by wrapping the container in a blanket or bringing it inside where it will be fully protected from the elements.
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What damage will Common lilac suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Greater harm will come to Common lilac if the temperature is consistently too high versus too low.
If Common lilac gets too hot, seed germination and photosynthesis efficiency is lessened due to hormone triggers caused by heat stress. The plant will show signs through wilting, leaf browning, and potentially death.
If Common lilac gets too cold, plant functions such as nutrient uptake and photosynthesis will cease, resulting in the possible death of the plant. If a single freezing event occurs during the growing season, then a membrane phase transition might occur, which can cause a cease in plant functions and death of the plant.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Common lilac?
Keeping the soil temperature consistent is one of the most important strategies to keeping Common lilac healthy, which leads to successful budding, flowering, and new growth. Do this by consistently watering, adding mulch to bare soil, and planting in the shade.
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How can I keep Common lilac warm without a heat pad?
Due to the cold tolerance of Common lilac, heating pads will not be necessary if planted outside in the ground. If the plant is in an outdoor pot, then bring it inside a heated house and place it in a sunny window during the winter months.
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How can I provide Common lilac with an adequate temperature condition?
To ensure adequate temperature conditions are present, plant Common lilac in an area with partial shade. If possible, use afternoon shade to provide the best protection during the hottest part of the day. This will also result in lower temperatures in the soil due to increased moisture retention. If Common lilac is planted indoors, then keep the container away from windows and out of direct sunlight during the summer months to prevent the soil temperature from spiking daily.
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How can I save Common lilac from temperature damage?
During the summer or times of high heat, give Common lilac extra shade and water to help cool its leaves, roots, and soil. During cold snaps or growing season freezes, cover sensitive budding vegetation with frost cloth or water using sprinkler systems. If it’s only nearing freezing temperatures for a short period, then water during the day several hours before the freeze. If the temperature is predicted to remain below freezing for an extended period, then keep the sprinkler running until the temperature rises above freezing the following day.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Common lilac in different seasons?
Common lilac is a mid-temperature plant that can easily tolerate the typical fluctuations of the seasons and remain a hardy species when planted in maintained landscapes areas, containers, or indoors. Therefore, adjusting the temperature during the different seasons is unnecessary for primary growth. If flowering is stunted or impeded, then allowing the plant to experience a season of winter freeze could help to revive flowering.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Common lilac?
If it becomes too difficult to lower the temperature for an indoor plant during the summer, then plant it outside in the ground or in a container. Make sure to plant Common lilac in a shaded location and water often to keep the soil moist.
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Soil
Common lilac can endure poor soil and adapts to various soil types, but it is sensitive to acidic soil. It prefers well-drained, loose, fertile soil which is neutral to alkaline (pH close to or higher than 7). It should not be planted in low-lying areas, because long-term accumulated water can cause poor growth and even death. If the soil in the garden is not fertile enough, add compost, bone fertilizer or other fertilizers.


Propagation

Planting

Harvest
Common lilac can produce a large number of small seedlings near the root system, so ramet propagation is convenient. The propagation of ramets is usually carried out before sprouting in early spring or after falling of leaves in the fall. Dig out the young seedlings with their roots and plant them separately. Watering more after transplanting to strengthen the formation of the root system.
Cuttage can be performed in summer every year. Strong branches growing out this year should be cut to about 13 to 15 cm and inserted in prepared soil. Keep it shaded and moist, and it will take root in about 50 days. The small seedlings can be transplanted next spring.
Propagation
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Select varieties with bloom time, color, and height you prefer. Common lilac can be transplanted after leaves fall off in the fall or after the soil is defrosted in spring. If transplanted in the fall, plants can form a root system before the next bloom season and perform well. Transplanting in spring can prevent the seedlings from freezing in the harsh winter and increase the survival rate. If transplanted in summer, leaf buds and flower buds grow quickly. However, excessive evaporation of the aboveground part may negatively affect its growth and blooms for the following year.
If you can buy two-year-old or older saplings from the nursery, they will blossom the same year or the following year. Ramets can be dug from mature common lilac for transplanting. care should be taken to ensure that the seedlings are at least 30 cm tall. It may take 3-4 years for these smaller seedlings to blossom.
When transplanting a seedling, dig a pit 5 to 8 cm larger than the earth ball and twice its diameter. Stretch the roots of the seedling out and put them into the pit. Cover the pit with soil mixed with compost. Water the pit when half the soil is filled in, then continue to fill in soil. The filled soil should be kept level with the ground. Also make sure that the top layer of the root system is several inches under the soil surface, so the root system is completely buried. Water thoroughly after planting, and then once every 10 days, 3-5 times in succession, for strong root establishment. Depending on the variety, space the plants 1.5 to 4.5 m apart.

Blooms can be used as excellent fragrant cut flowers with a vase life of 3-5 days. Cut off the stalks and insert them into the vase when about 1/3-1/2 of the flower buds bloom. Cut at the bases of the branches with sharp scissors, not broken by hand. Common lilac can produce many flowers each spring. However, don't cut too many stalks from a sapling blooming for the first time; otherwise, it will impact the growth of the sapling.
You can also dry common lilac flowers. Tie the fresh stalks into a bunch with a rope, and hang them upside down in a dry, airy place for 1-3 weeks. After the flowers are completely dry, take them off gently and appreciate them as dried flowers.


Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.


Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Fertilize in early spring, and prune once a year after blooming. Avoid pruning in summer and fall, because it is forming next year's flower buds, and pruning at this time will result in fewer flowers next year. Water if the summer is hot without much rain. Watered thoroughly before the first frost, but do not water or transplant after frost.
You can force early blooms in late winter or early spring. Cut branches with flower buds with sharp gardening scissors, and culture in the vase with water in a warm room. However, the flowers will be slightly smaller and have a lighter color than that bloom normally in spring.


Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common lilac based on 10 million real cases



Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.



Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.



Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.



Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.

Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.

Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.

Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.

Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together

Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About Common Lilac

Spread
1.8 to 3.5 m

Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer

Flower Color
Pink
Purple
White
Blue

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
Flower 6 mm to 1 cm

Plant Height
6 to 7 m
Name story
Common lilac
The word lilac can be traced back to the Turkish language "leylak", which probably originated from the name of this plant in the Balkans. Now, "lilac" can refer to an aroma or a pale violet color. While Syringa vulgaris flowers are purple and fragrant, it is also called common lilac.
Usages
Garden Use
The common lilac is found in many gardens of colder climates, and is valued for its fragrance as well as its luscious pop of purple and use as a transition flower, blooming right before the slew of roses and other summertime flowers. The common lilac works wonderfully for hedges, screens, or even standalone pieces in small gardens. Peonies, tulips, and daffodils provide beautiful contrast when planted around it.

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Common Problems
Why doesn't my common lilac blossom?


It takes 3-4 years of growth for most varieties of common lilac to bloom. Also, If it is transplanted, it will not bloom that same season. Too high or low pH of the soil can lead to no flowering; neutral to alkaline soil (pH 7.0 or a little higher) is beneficial to its growth and blooming. Too much nitrogen in the soil can also cause the plant to grow only long foliage and not blossom. Lastly, be careful not to cut off developing flower buds if you prune during summer and fall.
Your area must be suitable for common lilac. Insufficient sunlight reduces blooming; your plant needs at least 6 hours of sunlight daily to reach full bloom. If winter temperatures are too high, the number and quality of flowers will decrease. As flower buds begin to grow in the fall, certain low temperatures are needed to break dormancy. To come out of dormancy and bloom normally, temperatures cannot be too warm.
How can I save a dying common lilac?


Dying common lilac exhibits weak branches, fewer flowers, and dull petals. If weak growth is noticed in early spring, remove all dead branches and leaves and surface mulch at the base of the plant. Check the soil pH. If the pH value is too low, the soil is acid and is not favorable to the growth of common lilac. Increase the pH by adding agricultural lime; If you want to decrease the pH, apply pine needles, chopped leaves, sulfur, sawdust or peat, etc. Check if there are any diseases or pests and apply pesticides if needed.
Mice and voles chew the roots of common lilac in the winter, so check for the presence of such animals. On an unhealthy plant, keep 4-5 healthy and strong main branches and remove the rest of the branches 2.5 cm above the ground. Apply fertilizer in spring or fall, but avoid excess fertilization. Make sure the soil is moist and well-drained.
Where should I plant common lilac?


plant common lilac in a place with a well-ventilated location that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Humid, stagnant air and insufficient sunlight can lead to disease. Therefore, avoid planting in the shade of buildings and other trees. It also needs well-drained soil. In case of poor drainage, an artificial mound or raised bed can be put into place before planting to improve the soil drainage. Do not plant it near walls or trees, because its roots need space to stretch out.
Are the roots of common lilac invasive?


Its roots do require more space because they spread to 1-1/2 times the width of the shrub, but they are not invasive.


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Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ





How to care Common Lilac
Common lilac is a shrub native to the Balkan Peninsula that blooms with a fragrant blossom. It grows on rocky terrain and has a suckering habit. The blossoms are used to flavor honey, sugars, food, and other delights and farmed for its fragrant flowers in the spring.


Symbolism
Exorcism, Protection, renewal, the coming of spring

Water
Every 1-2 weeks

Sunlight
Full sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Common lilac requires well-drained soil. Sufficient water should be maintained in the soil to nourish the root system. On the other hand, the soil should smoothly discharge rainwater when it rains. Before planting, a hole about 20 cm in diameter and 30 cm deep should be dug and then filled with water to test soil drainage.
If the water has not drained after an hour, consider other planting sites. If it rains less than 2.5 cm a week, common lilac needs to be watered. Make sure the soil completely dries between waterings. Overwatering can affect blooming, and too little water can cause the leaves to wither or twist.

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Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
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Fertilizer

After transplanting, no fertilizer or just a small amount of fertilizer is required. Do not apply excessive fertilizer. In particular, do not apply too much fertilizer rich in nitrogen, which can cause spindling of flower branches, affect flower bud formation, and reduce the number of flowers. The application of an appropriate amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer and a small amount of nitrogen fertilizer after blooming is beneficial to its growth and development.
Apply fertilizer in early spring once a year. Lay a layer of compost at the plant base, and add 5 to 10 cm of cover on the soil surface to prevent weeds and keep the soil moist.

Fertilizer
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Sunlight

Common lilac likes sufficient sunlight, and 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day will ensure vigorous growth and blooms. Without sufficient sunlight, the growth is slow and barely bloom, or not at all.

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Pruning

Pruning is essential for common lilac, because it promotes blooming, ensures air circulation, and prevents problems such as powdery mildew. Prune the plant every year to keep it in its shrub form. If it is not pruned, it will grow to 4.5 to 6 m, and the blooms will gather at the plant top. Because very young and old branches do not bloom well, regular pruning is required to keep it blooming beautifully every year.
Generally, branches with a diameter of 5 cm or more should be pruned off. Prune less than 1/3 of all branches and keep 8-12 branches of different ages with a diameter of 2.5 to 5 cm. Finally, maintain the plant at 2.5 m tall or less.
Old, dead, and diseased branches, and most seedlings growing from the roots, can be cut from the base after blooming at the end of winter or late spring. The old branches are usually coarse, with weak blooming ability. Dead and diseased branches will not grow new buds or flowers in spring. Keep 2-3 strong seedlings as new branches. Any branches that disturb the tree shape or are twisted can be pruned at the same time.
If you do not need to harvest the seeds of the common lilac, cut blooms off when they begin to fade and droop. this prevents nutrient use for fruit development, and next year's flower buds will be stronger. When the center of the tree is overcrowded, choose the thickest stem and cut it off at the base to improve sunlight and ventilation inside the shrub.
If your common lilac is old, overgrown, or blooming poorly, the whole plant can be pruned to 15 to 20 cm tall. It will not bloom for three years, but the number of flowers will increase significantly.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

plants of genus Syringa are mainly distributed in the subtropical and temperate zone, where the environment is warmer, and also grows at high elevation. Some varieties can tolerate high temperatures, but the ornamental effect is decreased. Different species and varieties have different bloom times, extending from mid-spring to early summer. It does not have strict water requirements and is resistant to drought.
What is the optimal temperature for Common lilac?

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Soil

Common lilac can endure poor soil and adapts to various soil types, but it is sensitive to acidic soil. It prefers well-drained, loose, fertile soil which is neutral to alkaline (pH close to or higher than 7). It should not be planted in low-lying areas, because long-term accumulated water can cause poor growth and even death. If the soil in the garden is not fertile enough, add compost, bone fertilizer or other fertilizers.

Propagation

Planting

Harvest

Common lilac can produce a large number of small seedlings near the root system, so ramet propagation is convenient. The propagation of ramets is usually carried out before sprouting in early spring or after falling of leaves in the fall. Dig out the young seedlings with their roots and plant them separately. Watering more after transplanting to strengthen the formation of the root system.
Cuttage can be performed in summer every year. Strong branches growing out this year should be cut to about 13 to 15 cm and inserted in prepared soil. Keep it shaded and moist, and it will take root in about 50 days. The small seedlings can be transplanted next spring.

Propagation
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Select varieties with bloom time, color, and height you prefer. Common lilac can be transplanted after leaves fall off in the fall or after the soil is defrosted in spring. If transplanted in the fall, plants can form a root system before the next bloom season and perform well. Transplanting in spring can prevent the seedlings from freezing in the harsh winter and increase the survival rate. If transplanted in summer, leaf buds and flower buds grow quickly. However, excessive evaporation of the aboveground part may negatively affect its growth and blooms for the following year.
If you can buy two-year-old or older saplings from the nursery, they will blossom the same year or the following year. Ramets can be dug from mature common lilac for transplanting. care should be taken to ensure that the seedlings are at least 30 cm tall. It may take 3-4 years for these smaller seedlings to blossom.
When transplanting a seedling, dig a pit 5 to 8 cm larger than the earth ball and twice its diameter. Stretch the roots of the seedling out and put them into the pit. Cover the pit with soil mixed with compost. Water the pit when half the soil is filled in, then continue to fill in soil. The filled soil should be kept level with the ground. Also make sure that the top layer of the root system is several inches under the soil surface, so the root system is completely buried. Water thoroughly after planting, and then once every 10 days, 3-5 times in succession, for strong root establishment. Depending on the variety, space the plants 1.5 to 4.5 m apart.

Blooms can be used as excellent fragrant cut flowers with a vase life of 3-5 days. Cut off the stalks and insert them into the vase when about 1/3-1/2 of the flower buds bloom. Cut at the bases of the branches with sharp scissors, not broken by hand. Common lilac can produce many flowers each spring. However, don't cut too many stalks from a sapling blooming for the first time; otherwise, it will impact the growth of the sapling.
You can also dry common lilac flowers. Tie the fresh stalks into a bunch with a rope, and hang them upside down in a dry, airy place for 1-3 weeks. After the flowers are completely dry, take them off gently and appreciate them as dried flowers.

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

Seasonal Care Tips

Seasonal Precautions
Fertilize in early spring, and prune once a year after blooming. Avoid pruning in summer and fall, because it is forming next year's flower buds, and pruning at this time will result in fewer flowers next year. Water if the summer is hot without much rain. Watered thoroughly before the first frost, but do not water or transplant after frost.
You can force early blooms in late winter or early spring. Cut branches with flower buds with sharp gardening scissors, and culture in the vase with water in a warm room. However, the flowers will be slightly smaller and have a lighter color than that bloom normally in spring.

Summer

Fall

Winter
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Common lilac based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars



Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Nutrient deficiencies



A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More

Underwatering



A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.
Solutions: Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly. You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot. If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.
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Black spot



Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Learn More


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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.

Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.

Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Underwatering
A lack of water will cause the leaves to gradually turn yellow starting at the base of the branch while the entire plant appears to wilt.

Symptom Analysis
Your plant’s leaves are turning yellow due to underwatering, the oldest leaves turn yellow first. Leaves yellow from the edges towards the middle. Other signs of underwatering include the soil feeling very dry or pulling away from the edge of its pot.

Solutions
Your plant is very thirsty and needs water promptly.
- You can revive your plant by giving it water. The easiest technique is to slowly pour water into your plant’s soil so that the whole surface is moistened. If you pour the water too quickly, the water will flow directly through rather than diffusing throughout the soil. If your plant’s pot does not have drainage holes, do not give your plant more than about a third of the pot’s volume of water. If your plant’s pot does have drainage holes, you can add water slowly until the soil is thoroughly moistened and the water flows freely through the pot.
- If you trim off yellow leaves to improve the plant’s appearance, do not remove more than a third of the plant’s leaves. It may be better to wait until leaves have died and fallen off to remove them.

Prevention
- When you get a new plant, research its specific watering needs. Set reminders so that you remember to water your plants consistently. Not all plants are the same, so make sure to differentiate all of your plants in your watering schedule.
- You may wish to purchase a commercial soil water meter which has a long probe that you place near your plant’s roots. Be sure to check it frequently and water your plant when the soil water meter indicates that it needs watering.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.

Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.

Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.

Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together

Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.

Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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More About Common Lilac

Spread
1.8 to 3.5 m

Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer

Flower Color
Pink
Purple
White
Blue

Leaf Color
Green

Flower Size
Flower 6 mm to 1 cm

Plant Height
6 to 7 m
Name story
Common lilac
The word lilac can be traced back to the Turkish language "leylak", which probably originated from the name of this plant in the Balkans. Now, "lilac" can refer to an aroma or a pale violet color. While Syringa vulgaris flowers are purple and fragrant, it is also called common lilac.
Usages
Garden Use
The common lilac is found in many gardens of colder climates, and is valued for its fragrance as well as its luscious pop of purple and use as a transition flower, blooming right before the slew of roses and other summertime flowers. The common lilac works wonderfully for hedges, screens, or even standalone pieces in small gardens. Peonies, tulips, and daffodils provide beautiful contrast when planted around it.

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Common Problems
Why doesn't my common lilac blossom?


It takes 3-4 years of growth for most varieties of common lilac to bloom. Also, If it is transplanted, it will not bloom that same season. Too high or low pH of the soil can lead to no flowering; neutral to alkaline soil (pH 7.0 or a little higher) is beneficial to its growth and blooming. Too much nitrogen in the soil can also cause the plant to grow only long foliage and not blossom. Lastly, be careful not to cut off developing flower buds if you prune during summer and fall.
Your area must be suitable for common lilac. Insufficient sunlight reduces blooming; your plant needs at least 6 hours of sunlight daily to reach full bloom. If winter temperatures are too high, the number and quality of flowers will decrease. As flower buds begin to grow in the fall, certain low temperatures are needed to break dormancy. To come out of dormancy and bloom normally, temperatures cannot be too warm.
How can I save a dying common lilac?


Dying common lilac exhibits weak branches, fewer flowers, and dull petals. If weak growth is noticed in early spring, remove all dead branches and leaves and surface mulch at the base of the plant. Check the soil pH. If the pH value is too low, the soil is acid and is not favorable to the growth of common lilac. Increase the pH by adding agricultural lime; If you want to decrease the pH, apply pine needles, chopped leaves, sulfur, sawdust or peat, etc. Check if there are any diseases or pests and apply pesticides if needed.
Mice and voles chew the roots of common lilac in the winter, so check for the presence of such animals. On an unhealthy plant, keep 4-5 healthy and strong main branches and remove the rest of the branches 2.5 cm above the ground. Apply fertilizer in spring or fall, but avoid excess fertilization. Make sure the soil is moist and well-drained.
Where should I plant common lilac?


plant common lilac in a place with a well-ventilated location that gets at least 6 hours of direct sunlight every day. Humid, stagnant air and insufficient sunlight can lead to disease. Therefore, avoid planting in the shade of buildings and other trees. It also needs well-drained soil. In case of poor drainage, an artificial mound or raised bed can be put into place before planting to improve the soil drainage. Do not plant it near walls or trees, because its roots need space to stretch out.
Are the roots of common lilac invasive?


Its roots do require more space because they spread to 1-1/2 times the width of the shrub, but they are not invasive.


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