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How to Care for Lilly Pilly
Lilly pilly (Syzygium smithii) is a summer-flowering, winter-fruiting evergreen tree native to Australia. Lilly pilly fruits in winter. This species is called the monkey apple in New Zealand.
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Advanced Care Guide
Transplanting
Transplanting lilly pilly is best during the milder seasons of spring to early autumn (S1-S3) when the plant can recover quickly. Select a site that receives partial to full sun, offers good soil drainage, and is sheltered from strong winds. For a successful transplant, ensure the soil is kept consistently moist during the initial weeks.
More About How-Tos
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Lighting
Full sun
The lilly pilly flourishes under a full day of sun exposure but can also withstand a blend of both shade and sunlight, demonstrating its adaptability. Originating from a habitat with ample sun, adequate light exposure is crucial to its healthy growth. Insufficient light might hinder its development, while overly intense sun can result in damage to the foliage.
Temperature
-15 43 ℃
Lilly pilly is native to regions with a climate ranging from 50 to 100.4°F (10 to 38℃), and it prefers this temperature range. In winter, it may need additional heat if the temperature drops below this range.
Transplant
3-5 feet
Transplanting lilly pilly is best during the milder seasons of spring to early autumn (S1-S3) when the plant can recover quickly. Select a site that receives partial to full sun, offers good soil drainage, and is sheltered from strong winds. For a successful transplant, ensure the soil is kept consistently moist during the initial weeks.
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.
1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.
Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.
1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.
You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.
1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.
While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.
1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Lilly pilly based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
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Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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More About Lilly Pilly
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
5 to 15 m
Bloom Time
Early spring, Late fall, Winter
Flower Color
White
Green
Plant Height
20 to 30 m
Name story
Lilly pilly||Lilly-pilly tree||Monkey apple
The origin of the name lilly pilly is still quite unclear. Some suggest that it could have been derived from a personal name. In New Zealand, it's known by the name ' monkey apple'.
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About
Advanced Care
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
How to Care for Lilly Pilly
Lilly pilly (Syzygium smithii) is a summer-flowering, winter-fruiting evergreen tree native to Australia. Lilly pilly fruits in winter. This species is called the monkey apple in New Zealand.
Every 2-3 weeks
Water ![Water detail]()
Full sun
Sunlight ![Sunlight detail]()
Advanced Care Guide
Transplanting
Transplanting lilly pilly is best during the milder seasons of spring to early autumn (S1-S3) when the plant can recover quickly. Select a site that receives partial to full sun, offers good soil drainage, and is sheltered from strong winds. For a successful transplant, ensure the soil is kept consistently moist during the initial weeks.
More About How-Tos
Seasonal Care Tips
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
This plant and other temperate fruiting trees and shrubs require care in the early spring.
1
Prune back old growth but wait until after the last frost.
2
Spring is also the best time for planting, but do not fertilize new plants. Mature specimens will benefit from a monthly application of organic fertilizer.
3
Water the plant deeply every couple of weeks.
4
Container plants require sunlight in the spring. Move the container to a location receiving several hours of sunlight a day.
Fruiting temperate trees and shrubs like this plant benefit from care during the summer.
1
A monthly application of organic fertilizer throughout the summer helps to support growth and encourage fruiting.
2
Keep an eye on soil moisture, watering whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
3
Remove any dead and dying leaves from the plant and around the base to help avoid issues with pests and diseases.
4
Prune back old growth to help avoid potential issues with broken branches.
5
Move container plants to a partially shady location if they are in a consistently sunny area.
You should provide frequent care to your plant throughout the fall.
1
Up until your plant reaches dormancy in the cold winter months, continue to water it in cases of little to no rainfall to ensure the soil stays moist and the plant stays productive.
2
Make sure it received plenty of direct sun as well.
3
Fertilize it once at the beginning of fall, with a citrus fertilizer, then stop fertilizing and pruning during this season, especially as winter approaches. This will help your plant enter winter dormancy more easily.
4
Rake up any fallen fall foliage to deter pests and diseases, as bacteria can easily grow in the fallen leaves at the base of the plant.
While your plant is dormant in the winter, let it rest. You’ll need to provide only minimal care at this time.
1
Water your plant infrequently, providing it with water it only after the soil dries out to avoid waking it up.
2
At the very end of winter, before new growth begins, prune away dead, diseased, or overcrowded branches to jumpstart fresh growth in the spring.
3
If you have a potted variety, you can overwinter it indoors in bright sunlight, and you can possibly enjoy the harvest from your plant throughout the season.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Lilly pilly based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More ![more]()
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Learn More ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.
Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.
Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.
Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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More About Lilly Pilly
Plant Type
Tree
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
5 to 15 m
Bloom Time
Early spring, Late fall, Winter
Flower Color
White
Green
Plant Height
20 to 30 m
Name story
Lilly pilly||Lilly-pilly tree||Monkey apple
The origin of the name lilly pilly is still quite unclear. Some suggest that it could have been derived from a personal name. In New Zealand, it's known by the name ' monkey apple'.
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Water
How Often Should I Water Lilly Pilly?
Every 2-3 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Lilly pilly is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, root rot, leaf drop...
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Yellowing leaves
When plants receive too much water, the roots become oxygen deprived and the bottom leaves of the plant gradually turn yellow.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Leaf drop
When plants are overwatered, they may shed their leaves as a response to stress, even if the leaves appear green and healthy.
Mold and mildew
Overwatered plants create a damp environment that can encourage the growth of mold and mildew on soil.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
Lilly pilly is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, leaf drop...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Dry stems
Due to insufficient water, plant stems may become dry or brittle, making the branches easy to break.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
The lilly pilly flourishes under a full day of sun exposure but can also withstand a blend of both shade and sunlight, demonstrating its adaptability. Originating from a habitat with ample sun, adequate light exposure is crucial to its healthy growth. Insufficient light might hinder its development, while overly intense sun can result in damage to the foliage.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Lilly pilly thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Lilly pilly may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Lilly pilly enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Lilly pilly thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Lilly pilly is native to regions with a climate ranging from 50 to 100.4°F (10 to 38℃), and it prefers this temperature range. In winter, it may need additional heat if the temperature drops below this range.
Regional wintering strategies
Lilly pilly has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by wrapping the trunk and branches with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Lilly pilly is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
High Temperature
During summer, Lilly pilly should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, the tips may become dry and withered, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Lilly Pilly?
Transplanting lilly pilly is best during the milder seasons of spring to early autumn (S1-S3) when the plant can recover quickly. Select a site that receives partial to full sun, offers good soil drainage, and is sheltered from strong winds. For a successful transplant, ensure the soil is kept consistently moist during the initial weeks.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Lilly Pilly?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Lilly Pilly?
The ideal period to transplant lilly pilly is in the gentle spring to mid-autumn (S1-S3). It's when the plant is strongest and can adjust well post-translocation. Shifting lilly pilly during this time aids in promoting healthier growth and ensuring a successful transplant. Remember, lilly pilly appreciates your help to reach its full potential!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Lilly Pilly Plants?
When preparing to transplant your lilly pilly, ensure that you have enough space. These plants need room to grow, so ideally, you'd space each plant about 3-5 feet (0.90-1.50 meters) apart. This will let your lilly pilly flourish without overcrowding each other.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Lilly Pilly Transplanting?
For your lilly pilly, a well-drained, loam or sandy type of soil is perfect. You should also prepare a base fertilizer rich in organic matter, like compost or manure. This will nourish your lilly pilly and give it a good start in its new home.
Where Should You Relocate Your Lilly Pilly?
Choose a spot with full sun or semi-shade. Your lilly pilly loves sunlight, but also tolerates shade. So anywhere that receives 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day would be a wonderful new home for your plant. Happy gardening!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Lilly Pilly?
Gardening Gloves
To safeguard your hands when handling the plant and working with the soil.
Shovel or Garden Trowel
For digging the hole in your garden ground.
Garden Hose or Watering Can
For watering the lilly pilly plant before and after transplanting.
Pruning Shears
For trimming any unhealthy roots from the lilly pilly.
Hand tamper or Roller
To mildly compress the soil after transplanting.
Stakes and Ties
To provide support to your lilly pilly in its new location, if necessary.
Wheelbarrow
For transporting the lilly pilly from its original location to the new one if it's large.
How Do You Remove Lilly Pilly from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new planting site by digging a hole that is twice as wide and almost the depth of the root ball of your lilly pilly. Ensure the hole is not too deep because the plant should be transplanted at the same depth it was growing before.
Step2 Placing the plant
Gently place your lilly pilly into the hole. Make sure to spread the roots out in the hole and position it so that it's sitting at the correct depth.
Step3 Backfill the hole
Slowly backfill the hole with the original soil, lightly compacting it to remove any air pockets, which can cause the roots to dry out.
Step4 Watering
Water the lilly pilly thoroughly to settle the soil around the root ball. If the water causes the soil level to go down, add more soil to bring it back up to the correct level.
Step5 Secure the plant
If your lilly pilly is tall and potentially unstable, now is the time to stake it for support.
Step6 Continual Care
Monitor your plant closely during the first few weeks, watering it as needed and keeping pests away.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Lilly Pilly
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new planting site by digging a hole that is twice as wide and almost the depth of the root ball of your lilly pilly. Ensure the hole is not too deep because the plant should be transplanted at the same depth it was growing before.
Step2 Placing the plant
Gently place your lilly pilly into the hole. Make sure to spread the roots out in the hole and position it so that it's sitting at the correct depth.
Step3 Backfill the hole
Slowly backfill the hole with the original soil, lightly compacting it to remove any air pockets, which can cause the roots to dry out.
Step4 Watering
Water the lilly pilly thoroughly to settle the soil around the root ball. If the water causes the soil level to go down, add more soil to bring it back up to the correct level.
Step5 Secure the plant
If your lilly pilly is tall and potentially unstable, now is the time to stake it for support.
Step6 Continual Care
Monitor your plant closely during the first few weeks, watering it as needed and keeping pests away.
How Do You Care For Lilly Pilly After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Observe your lilly pilly for signs of stress, including wilting or yellowing leaves. It is normal for the plant to experience some transplant shock, but if you notice continued problem, the plant might be struggling. Do not overwater your lilly pilly but do not let it dry out either.
Mulching
Adding a layer of mulch around your lilly pilly can help retain soil moisture and regulate soil temperature while also preventing weed growth.
Pruning
Delay pruning for a while, except to remove dead or diseased branches, to allow your lilly pilly to establish itself in the new location.
Frost Protection
During winter, take measures to protect your lilly pilly from frost. You can do this by using a frost blanket or building a protective structure around the plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Lilly Pilly Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant lilly pilly?
The ideal time to move lilly pilly is during S1-S3, when they are in their dormant phase.
What spacing should I maintain for lilly pilly?
When transplanting lilly pilly, it's best to place them 3-5 feet (0.9-1.5 meters) apart from each other to allow room for growth.
How should I prepare the soil for lilly pilly?
Prepare a fertile, well-drained plot. You can add compost to improve the soil condition before planting which lilly pilly will appreciate.
How deep should I plant lilly pilly when I transplant them?
You should plant lilly pilly to the same depth it was in the original pot. This would be around 10-12 inches (25-30 cm).
How should I take care of lilly pilly right after transplanting?
Water lilly pilly immediately after transplanting, then continue to water regularly until it's well-established. Avoid overwatering though, as that can damage the plant.
How can I reduce the shock for lilly pilly during transplantation?
A good way is to water lilly pilly thoroughly the day before transplanting. This reduces shock and makes the plant easier to remove from its current pot.
What is a common mistake to avoid when transplanting lilly pilly?
A common pitfall is under-watering lilly pilly after transplanting. They need a generous amount of water initially, but remember not to overdo it.
How can I ensure lilly pilly thrives after transplanting?
Ensure that you plant lilly pilly in a location that meets its sunlight requirements, keep it adequately watered, and maintain a proper distance between each plant.
What if I notice yellow leaves on lilly pilly post-transplant?
This could indicate transplant shock. Maintain regular watering and check for proper sunlight. The plant should recover with proper care.
Can I transplant lilly pilly into a larger pot instead of in the ground?
Yes, you can! Just ensure the pot has sufficient drainage and is ample size - about twice as large as the root ball of lilly pilly.
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