You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Star jasmine prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.


About


Basic Care


Advanced Care


Seasonal Tips


Pests & Diseases


More Info


FAQ


New Plant Care
How to Care for Star Jasmine
Star jasmine is a popular ornamental and houseplant due to its fragrant smell and relative ease of growth. This versatile plant can grow in full sun, partial shade or complete shade, making it common in a variety of climates. It prefers to climb and is generally planted on walls or fences to allow for this natural upward growth. The star jasmine is also known to attract pollinators such as bees.

Symbolism
Auspiciousness, amiability, joy

Water
Every week

Sunlight
Partial sun






Basic Care Guide

Water
Star jasmine prefers a slightly moist environment without standing water. Watering can be done every 2 days in spring and fall, once a day in summer, and once every half month in winter. Sufficient humidity allows star jasmine to spread quickly and make leaves and flowers healthier. It can adapt to a slightly dry environment. With poor resistance to standing water, be sure not to overwater star jasmine.
Water
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What's the best method to water my Star jasmine?
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What should I do if I water Star jasmine too much/too little?
An overwatered Star jasmine can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Star jasmine recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Star jasmine indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Star jasmine outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Star jasmine?
The Star jasmine likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Star jasmine generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Star jasmine?
The Star jasmine generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Star jasmine is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Star jasmine is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Star jasmine continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Star jasmine a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Star jasmine according to different seasons or climates?
The Star jasmine needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Star jasmine to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Star jasmine will need less water during the winter. Since the Star jasmine will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Star jasmine growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Star jasmine can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Star jasmine and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Star jasmine’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Star jasmine’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Star jasmine in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Star jasmine mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Star jasmine in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Star jasmine begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Star jasmine important?
Watering the Star jasmine helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Star jasmine thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Fertilizer
Star jasmine does well in nutrient-rich environments and inadequate growth environments alike. Deficiency in fertilizer does not affect survival, but impacts the appearance and numbers of blooms. Apply nitrogenous-phosphate-potassium compound fertilizer once in spring and fall. No fertilizers are needed in winter and summer.
With sufficient nutrients, leaves are deep in color and large in size. The number of blooms and the fragrance increases. If you want to create a spectacular flower waterfall, use phosphate-potassium fertilizers and less nitrogen fertilizer.
Fertilizer
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Why do I need to fertilize my Star jasmine?
Regardless of which kind of Star jasmine you own, regular fertilization will help you grow a plant that has great overall health. The proper supply of nutrients leads to more vigorous growth and can help your Star jasmine be more resilient to tough growing conditions while also gaining a better ability to fight off diseases and pests.
The foliage of your Star jasmine is one of its most attractive features, which is why you should do all you can to keep it intact. Again, this means creating and adhering to a regular fertilization schedule that is specific to your Star jasmine. Doing so will prompt your Star jasmine to develop leaves with a deep color and a lush overall look.
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When is the best time to fertilize my Star jasmine?
The first time that you should fertilize your Star jasmine is during the late winter or early spring. This type of fertilization gives your Star jasmine all the nutrients it needs to resume healthy growth once the weather gets warm enough.
It is also beneficial to many Star jasmine to provide an additional fertilizer feeding during early fall if you in a warm climate region. Fertilizing in early fall not only adds additional nutrients to the soil, which your Star jasmine will use in the following growing season, but it also helps your Star jasmine be a bit more hardy and capable of surviving the winter cold without experiencing foliage damage. Earlier fertilisation will ensure that the new branches have enough time to grow to withstand the cold winter.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my Star jasmine?
There are a few times during the year when you should not fertilize your Star jasmine. The first time occurs during the early and mid-winter months, during which time your Star jasmine will be dormant and in no need of feeding.
It is also unwise to fertilize this plant during the late spring and all of the summer. During that time of year, the weather will likely be hotter and can be much dryer as well. Both conditions make it more likely that your Star jasmine will have a very negative response to fertilization. To avoid such issues, stick to a fertilization schedule that involves feeding exclusively during early spring and early fall.
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What type of fertilizer does my Star jasmine need?
In most cases, the most important nutrient for a Star jasmine is nitrogen, but that does not mean that phosphorus and potassium are unimportant. On the contrary, your Star jasmine likely needs a decent amount of all three main nutrients, which is why a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10, can work well.
However, a more nuanced ratio of nutrients often leads to optimal growth for a Star jasmine. Often, fertilizers that are a bit higher in nitrogen work a bit better. For example, a ratio of 10-6-4 can often work well. When fertilizing, you can use a granular fertilizer or a liquid-based one.
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How do I fertilize my Star jasmine?
To fertilize your Star jasmine using a granular fertilizer, all you need to do is sprinkle the fertilizer on the soil at the correct time. The slow-release nature of granular fertilizer will release nutrients into the soil slowly over time. As is usually the case, it's best to water your Star jasmine, at least lightly, before applying fertilizer.
As an alternative, you can use a liquid fertilizer, but this is less common. To use this approach, mix your fertilizer with water, then pour the water onto the soil around the base of your Star jasmine. At times, it is beneficial to perform a soil test before fertilizing to see if you will need to alter the pH at all.
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What happens if I fertilize my Star jasmine too much?
Overfertilization is always a risk when you are feeding a Star jasmine. Overfertilization is especially likely if you feed this plant at the wrong time of year, feed it too often, or feed it without watering the soil first.
When overfertilization takes place, your Star jasmine may begin to develop brown leaves. Your Star jasmine can also show stunted growth in some cases. On the other hand, it is also possible that too much fertilizer can prompt your Star jasmine to rapidly produce too much new growth, much of which will be weak and prone to breaking. Weak new wood can also detract from the overall form and structure of your Star jasmine.
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Sunlight
Star jasmine enjoys sunlight and adapts well to full sun. A few varieties may require moderate shade. Check the requirements for planting conditions on its label when purchasing. Insufficient light for a long period may lead to spindling, ungraceful shape, yellowing leaves without luster, and reduced number or size of blooms.
Over-sufficient sunlight in the summer may cause star jasmine to lose water and wither. It's best to water in the evening. Newly transplanted or weak seedlings, or severely dehydrated plants, may endure irreversible damage from dehydration, so set up shade nets for star jasmine in advance, or temporarily move potted plant to shaded places.


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How many hours of sunlight does Star jasmine need to grow?
Star jasmine requires about 3-6 hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive. However, it also needs some shade during the hottest parts of the day to prevent sun damage. Morning sunlight is ideal for Star jasmine, but it can also tolerate some afternoon sun if the temperature is not too hot. To provide the perfect balance of sunlight, try planting Star jasmine in an area that gets partial sun, such as under a tree or on the east side of a building.
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What will happen if Star jasmine doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If Star jasmine is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves may turn yellow, dry out, or even burn. You may also notice that the plant wilts or becomes stunted. To prevent sun damage, make sure to give Star jasmine some shade during the hottest parts of the day. You can use a shade cloth or plant Star jasmine near taller plants that can provide some natural shade.
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What will happen if Star jasmine gets too much sunlight?
If Star jasmine doesn't get enough sunlight, it may grow tall and lanky, with sparse foliage. The leaves may also turn yellow or pale green, indicating that the plant is not producing enough chlorophyll due to lack of sunlight. To remedy this, try moving Star jasmine to a sunnier spot, or prune nearby foliage to allow more light to reach the plant.
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Pruning
Generally, the evergreen star jasmine doesn't need much pruning. Variegated varieties need to be pruned to grow more new leaves. Flowers and leaves mainly appear on the young leaves, while those on the old leaves gradually disappear. Usually, you can remove the pinch tips of young sprouts to encourage star jasmine to sprout more side branches and grow compactly.
If you want to grow star jasmine into shapes such as garden arches, flower walls, flower racks, or trimmed lawns or hedges, pruning is advised. Star jasmine germinates well, is resistant to pruning, and can be pruned throughout the year. The best time to prune is in winter dormancy. Be careful not to overprune in spring, as you may cut off flower buds and directly affect the number of blooms. After it is pruned, toxic milky saps will overflow from the wound. Wearing gloves while pruning is advised.

How can I prune my Star jasmine?
Pruning your Star jasmine is a fairly simple process. First, you will need a reliable set of hand pruners or hedge trimmers. You may use a clean pair of sharp scissors if you don’t have pruners or garden shears on hand. It’s important to always clean your gardening tools before and after using them to prevent the possibility of spreading disease or infection to other plants. To prune your Star jasmine simply allow your plant to go dormant over the Winter. Some time between late winter and early spring – or when new growth starts to appear – take your clean pruners or trimmers and cut away any dying, damaged, yellow or declining foliage. Repeat this process until you reach the base of the plant or until there are no dead pieces left to cut. When pruning, be careful not to damage the new growth that may be emerging near the base of your plant. These parts cannot be restored and pruning can increase the ventilation of the plants and facilitate their growth. Any pruning that is done to this plant should be cut straight across the blades or stems. No angled cuts are required. Diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Star jasmine is growing.
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What should I do after pruning my Star jasmine?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Star jasmine a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. Do not water the Star jasmine immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new growth.
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How can I prune my Star jasmine during different seasons?
Early spring and late winter are the best times to prune your Star jasmine on a large scale. If you want to control the size of your Star jasmine, you can prune them as you wish, but be careful not to prune more than a third of the size of the plant. Yellow and diseased leaves may appear during the summer months when the Star jasmine is growing vigorously and these types of leaves need to be pruned back immediately. These parts of the Star jasmine cannot be restored and pruning increases the ventilation of the plant and facilitates its growth.
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When should I prune my Star jasmine through different stages of growth?
Strategic pruning is usually done at different times of the year or during certain stages of growth depending on the plant. However, knowing when to prune your Star jasmine depends on where you live and how established your plant is. For example, if your Star jasmine is a new resident, it’s a good idea to wait until the plant starts to grow back before you start pruning. On the other hand, if your plant is already established, you will want to prune the dry or dead parts in plant before new leafy growth appears in early spring or late winter. This is the time of year when plants are dormant and pruning causes the least damage to them. This is also the best time of year to do more extensive pruning. It’s important to note that if Star jasmine is pruned too late in the season, it can leave new growth at risk for damage or disease. However, if your Star jasmine is indoors this is not a problem and you can prune at any time. Since this can affect the long-term health and appearance of your plant, it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding when and how to prune. As your Star jasmine grows larger over time, you can trim it as needed after annual pruning. Dead, damaged, or diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Star jasmine is growing.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature
Star jasmine is mostly distributed in the mountains and forests of tropics and subtropics. The suitable temperature for growth is 23 to 30 ℃. In winter, it is necessary to move star jasmine indoors to prevent it from freezing.
Star jasmine likes a moist growing environment, but is not resistant to waterlogging. Avoid planting in low-lying areas. Be sure to drain standing water in rainy seasons. When star jasmine is used as a potted plant, put some pebbles at the bottom of the pot so excess water drains smoothly from the hole of the pot. Otherwise, waterlogging easily leads to rotten roots.

What is the optimal temperature for Star jasmine?
Colder temperatures can affect plants since they have the same temperature as the air around them. When they are exposed to the sun, they can start to get warm again, but this is not the case during winter. The temperature range for the Star jasmine is often 70~85℉(21~30℃). They might tolerate 20~30℉(-6~0℃) even 15℉(-10℃), but not for long since this can result in frost damage. Maximum temperatures should be around 70~85℉(21~30℃), but make sure that you spray them with water from time to time and give them some shade to prevent wilting.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Star jasmine during different growing phases?
Do some research and make sure that the temperature is right when growing Star jasmine. Some growers might consider decreasing the plants' thermostats during the growing season to reduce HVAC costs. However, it's vital to understand that the temperature can affect the flowering, pest management, and quality of the plants.
There will be a temperature point where the Star jasmine will stop growing, and this can happen during the winter when some species might go into a dormant state. The base temperature becomes warmer when the season changes and the Star jasmine can grow faster. The species that are naturally growing in warm habitats have higher optimum temperatures when you compare them to the ones that thrive in a cooler climate.
When the seeds of Star jasmine are exposed to cool temperatures, this can cause a decrease in uniformity and delays. You might also want to lower the temperature during flowering but not at other phases. Cooler temperatures at night will also require less water, so adjust the irrigation as needed.
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How can I keep Star jasmine warm in cold seasons?
Stop fertilizing the plant to avoid new growth and allow the old ones to become hardy. This way, they can endure colder temperature when it begins to drop. To keep them warm, you can build structures around the Star jasmine like cages or trellises. There are also options to use heat mats that can gently warm the soil since they can consistently maintain an ideal temperature range for the Star jasmine.
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How can I save Star jasmine from temperature damage?
During winter, you can protect the Star jasmine from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets. Make sure to keep them down so they continue to act as insulators and the wind will not blow them away. However, ensure that the plastic sheets or burlap covers should not touch any part of the fruit or foliage, or the cold temperatures can transfer to the material and cause burns. When the temperatures begin to rise during the daytime, remove the covers.
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Should I adjust the temperature for Star jasmine in different seasons?
When growing the Star jasmine in spring, you might want to increase humidity since the air temperature tends to be cooler at this time. A dry temperature can be a stressful growing environment for various species, which can help. If summer arrives, the large cover of the greenhouse and the warm temperature will mean that there will be a higher humidity level in the air. Some signs to look for are the condensation that is often found on the walls of the greenhouse, and this can cause issues with pollination and the development of infections when the water begins to fall on the leaves. Make adjustments according to the temperature and do some spraying during the hotter days of the year.
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What damage will Star jasmine suffer if the temperature is too high/low?
Generally, the first cold snap can destroy the Star jasmine and others might go into a dormant state when the temperature is low. Some plants can get chilled when the temperatures range from 20~30℉(-6~0℃). They can freeze when the temperature begins to drop below 32℉(0℃). Those species that hide most of their parts under the soil might lose their structures above ground, but they can recover in spring. Some of the associated issues with too low temperatures are the lack of availability of resources like water, and nutrients, and those subtropical plants can suffer when the temperature reaches below 20℉(-6℃). The plants can also get damaged because of extreme heat stress when it's too high. This can reduce the transpiration rate that can affect the growth and productivity of Star jasmine.
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What tips and cautions should I keep in mind when it comes to temperature for Star jasmine?
You need to cover the plants at night since these can add about 5 degrees more to protect the species from frost and freezing temperatures. The cloth rows can work well as blankets and ensure that there are no openings where the heat could escape.
When using the covers, avoid the plastic from touching the foliage because this can cause the Star jasmine to freeze. Remember to keep the covers during the day and stop using heat pads during the summer. It will always be worth the effort to protect the cold-intolerant plants from freezing temperatures to help them survive.
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How can I keep Star jasmine warm without a heat pad?
If you prefer not to use a heat pad, bring the Star jasmine inside, especially if it's freezing outdoors. During spring, consider the ones you need to bring indoors and plant them in moveable pots and containers.
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How can I provide Star jasmine with an adequate temperature condition?
Most often, the ones caring for the Star jasmine will grow them in greenhouses. This is because they can provide adequate temperature in these areas that won't affect the photosynthesis process of a specific process.
Some install the proper HVAC systems to control the temperatures of Star jasmine. This can handle many species' cooling and heating needs, especially during the summer and winter. They generally place the cooling or heating pad under the plants rather than above to achieve their desired temperatures.
If outdoors, you can protect the Star jasmine from frost by covering it with cloths, tarps, burlaps, sheets, or plastic buckets.
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Under what conditions should I stop adjusting the temperature for Star jasmine?
Heat mats are often left on Star jasmine to set the temperatures at a more consistent level. When the weather becomes warmer during the day, you can remove them, especially if the species are exposed to the sun. Put the pads away once the plants are established and when they start growing flowers and fruits.
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Soil
Star jasmine can adapt to a variety of soils. Ensure smooth soil drainage. It grows best in loose, fertile, well-drained, neutral or weakly acidic soils with a pH of 5.7-7. Mix hummus and sand with cultivation soil. Bone meal and animal organic fertilizer can be mixed as base fertilizer.
Star jasmine has a developed root system and is not resistant to waterlogging. plant it in a brick or ceramic pot with large diameter, large capacity, and drainage holes at the bottom to ensure root health. If planted in a small flower pot, a plastic pot can be used, which is lightweight and convenient for repotting. It's time to repot when the roots grow out of the pot. Avoid inhibition of plant growth due to insufficient space for rooting.


Propagation

Planting
As a potted plant, star jasmine generally bears no seeds. When planted in the garden, it may produce cylindrical fruits after blooming. The mature seeds can be harvested in fall. Sow seed in spring; germination takes 8-10 weeks. The growing seedlings need to accumulate nutrients for 3-4 years before blooming; therefore, this propagation method is unpopular.
More common propagation methods are cutting or layering. With abundant rain and warm climate, the tender stems of star jasmine are prone to produce aerial roots naturally. You can cut the young stems with aerial roots and insert them into soil. Place them in the shade and wait for the new plant to get established. If the original stem has not grown aerial roots, bury its tender stem into slightly moist soil at a depth of about 3 to 4 cm without cutting. After the second year, when the tender stem has a new root, cut this stem segment and transplant it individually.
Propagation
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Purchased seedlings of star jasmine can be planted in the garden at any time. Spring is the best season for transplanting. As the temperature rises, your plants will quickly take root and sprout. Thus, the survival rate of transplanting is significantly higher than that in winter dormancy. Due to high temperatures or sun exposure, transplanting seedlings in summer may cause death.
Be sure to choose a slightly higher planting site in the garden to avoid waterlogging. In mild climate areas, star jasmine can be planted on the sunny side of the garden. In hot summer areas, plant in a place shaded by buildings or other plants at noon.
Repot potted star jasmine 2-4 weeks after blooming ends. Lots of nutrients are consumed after blooming, and it needs time to grow and gain nutrients from the soil. In addition, the temperature gradually decreases after the blooming period and the probability of being infected by pests is relatively reduced. During dormancy, it accumulates nutrients needed for growth in the coming year.
Avoiding repotting ornamental star jasmine in spring, which may affect the quantity and quality of blooming in summer. Used as a foliage plant, star jasmine can be repotted in spring. As the temperature rises, it can quickly recover and the growth of leaves basically will not be affected.
As a vine plant, star jasmine's soft branches can be guided to grow in different shapes. It can be planted directly on the ground, or wrapped around trees, ropes, and grids to cover an entire wall. Buy a flower arch and after a period of time, you can get a garden arch full of star jasmine.


Potting Suggestions
Potted plants should be planted in high tubular pots. Build bamboo shelves for climbing.


Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.

2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.

3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Star jasmine based on 10 million real cases



Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.



Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.



Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.



Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.



Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.

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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.

Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.

Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
- Pallid spots on colored petals.
- Brown spots on white petals.
- Browning around the petal edges.
- Small spots look water-soaked.
- Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
- Flowers become limp.
- The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
- Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
- A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.

Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.

Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.

Prevention
- Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
- Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
- Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
- Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
- Buy bare-root specimens when available.
- When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
- Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.

Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.

Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.

Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
- Spray the foliage with an insecticide
- Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
- Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
- Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.

Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
- Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
- Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
- Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
- Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
- Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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More About Star Jasmine

Plant Type
Vine

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
5 m

Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer

Flower Color
White
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green
Red

Flower Size
2.5 cm

Plant Height
60 to 1000 cm
Name story
Star jasmine
This plant produces a fresh and pleasant fragrance that refreshes anyone in the surrounding. The white flowers are very beautiful and are featured with five tubular petals that look like windmills. With the green leaves of the plant, it makes the flowers seem like the stars in the night sky. So, it is called the star jasmine.
Usages
Garden Use
Star jasmine can be used as a cover plant in gardens or as vertical greenery on walls and rocks. It is prized for its appearance, sweet scent, and the fact that it can trained to grow as a border or to spill over a wall or fence. It is a good fit for cottage or rock gardens and is often planted with Clematis and roses for their complementing blooms.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves of my star jasmine turn yellow?


- It may be due to insufficient light. Leaves will be greener with sunlight.
- It may be due to the lack of water in the plant or standing water in the soil. You can insert your fingers into the soil to feel the humidity. When star jasmine is deficient in water, it shows yellow and wilted leaves. In that case, apply water and increase air humidity. Standing water in the soil may also lead to anoxic root rot and poor plant growth. Water should be drained and the soil replaced with the new, looser soil.
- It may be due to excessive fertilization, which can also cause damage to the root system. this can be resolved by changing the soil and not fertilizing for some time.
- It may be due to low temperature. Star jasmine should be moved indoors during cold winters.
Why does my star jasmine bloom rarely or not at all?


- It may be due to its short growth time. Generally, star jasmine propagated through seeds needs 4-5 years to bloom.
- It may be due to insufficient light, moisture, or fertilizer. More suitable conditions need to be given to plants.
- It may be due to improper pruning, such as over-pruning before blooming or cutting off flower buds.
- Some varieties of star jasmine bloom less than others. You may want to choose another star jasmine with more flowers.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant

Check Its Health


Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.


Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.


Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.


Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown.
2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.




Branches
1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.






Stems

Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Leaves
1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
Ideal Temperature
0 to 35 ℃
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Suitable Light
Partial sun, Full shade
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.

2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
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Step 2

Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
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Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
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Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.
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Star Jasmine

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.

Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.



Star Jasmine

Repotting
Plant promptly in final location or new pot. Clean roots, use organic fertilizer, permeable soil, and water thoroughly.

Pruning
Cut off yellow or diseased leaves and crowded leaves that appear wilted or falling.

Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.

Fertilizing
Add base fertilizer during transplanting. No other fertilizer is needed for the first month.

Sunlight
Regular sun exposure for indoor plants. Shade after transplanting/repotting, then gradually increase light if there is no wilting. Increase light if yellowing and leaf drop occur.


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How to Care for Star Jasmine
Star jasmine is a popular ornamental and houseplant due to its fragrant smell and relative ease of growth. This versatile plant can grow in full sun, partial shade or complete shade, making it common in a variety of climates. It prefers to climb and is generally planted on walls or fences to allow for this natural upward growth. The star jasmine is also known to attract pollinators such as bees.

Symbolism
Auspiciousness, amiability, joy

Water
Every week

Sunlight
Partial sun

Basic Care Guide

Water

Star jasmine prefers a slightly moist environment without standing water. Watering can be done every 2 days in spring and fall, once a day in summer, and once every half month in winter. Sufficient humidity allows star jasmine to spread quickly and make leaves and flowers healthier. It can adapt to a slightly dry environment. With poor resistance to standing water, be sure not to overwater star jasmine.

Water
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Fertilizer

Star jasmine does well in nutrient-rich environments and inadequate growth environments alike. Deficiency in fertilizer does not affect survival, but impacts the appearance and numbers of blooms. Apply nitrogenous-phosphate-potassium compound fertilizer once in spring and fall. No fertilizers are needed in winter and summer.
With sufficient nutrients, leaves are deep in color and large in size. The number of blooms and the fragrance increases. If you want to create a spectacular flower waterfall, use phosphate-potassium fertilizers and less nitrogen fertilizer.

Fertilizer
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Sunlight

Star jasmine enjoys sunlight and adapts well to full sun. A few varieties may require moderate shade. Check the requirements for planting conditions on its label when purchasing. Insufficient light for a long period may lead to spindling, ungraceful shape, yellowing leaves without luster, and reduced number or size of blooms.
Over-sufficient sunlight in the summer may cause star jasmine to lose water and wither. It's best to water in the evening. Newly transplanted or weak seedlings, or severely dehydrated plants, may endure irreversible damage from dehydration, so set up shade nets for star jasmine in advance, or temporarily move potted plant to shaded places.

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Pruning

Generally, the evergreen star jasmine doesn't need much pruning. Variegated varieties need to be pruned to grow more new leaves. Flowers and leaves mainly appear on the young leaves, while those on the old leaves gradually disappear. Usually, you can remove the pinch tips of young sprouts to encourage star jasmine to sprout more side branches and grow compactly.
If you want to grow star jasmine into shapes such as garden arches, flower walls, flower racks, or trimmed lawns or hedges, pruning is advised. Star jasmine germinates well, is resistant to pruning, and can be pruned throughout the year. The best time to prune is in winter dormancy. Be careful not to overprune in spring, as you may cut off flower buds and directly affect the number of blooms. After it is pruned, toxic milky saps will overflow from the wound. Wearing gloves while pruning is advised.
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Advanced Care Guide

Temperature

Star jasmine is mostly distributed in the mountains and forests of tropics and subtropics. The suitable temperature for growth is 23 to 30 ℃. In winter, it is necessary to move star jasmine indoors to prevent it from freezing.
Star jasmine likes a moist growing environment, but is not resistant to waterlogging. Avoid planting in low-lying areas. Be sure to drain standing water in rainy seasons. When star jasmine is used as a potted plant, put some pebbles at the bottom of the pot so excess water drains smoothly from the hole of the pot. Otherwise, waterlogging easily leads to rotten roots.
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Soil

Star jasmine can adapt to a variety of soils. Ensure smooth soil drainage. It grows best in loose, fertile, well-drained, neutral or weakly acidic soils with a pH of 5.7-7. Mix hummus and sand with cultivation soil. Bone meal and animal organic fertilizer can be mixed as base fertilizer.
Star jasmine has a developed root system and is not resistant to waterlogging. plant it in a brick or ceramic pot with large diameter, large capacity, and drainage holes at the bottom to ensure root health. If planted in a small flower pot, a plastic pot can be used, which is lightweight and convenient for repotting. It's time to repot when the roots grow out of the pot. Avoid inhibition of plant growth due to insufficient space for rooting.

Propagation

Planting

As a potted plant, star jasmine generally bears no seeds. When planted in the garden, it may produce cylindrical fruits after blooming. The mature seeds can be harvested in fall. Sow seed in spring; germination takes 8-10 weeks. The growing seedlings need to accumulate nutrients for 3-4 years before blooming; therefore, this propagation method is unpopular.
More common propagation methods are cutting or layering. With abundant rain and warm climate, the tender stems of star jasmine are prone to produce aerial roots naturally. You can cut the young stems with aerial roots and insert them into soil. Place them in the shade and wait for the new plant to get established. If the original stem has not grown aerial roots, bury its tender stem into slightly moist soil at a depth of about 3 to 4 cm without cutting. After the second year, when the tender stem has a new root, cut this stem segment and transplant it individually.

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Purchased seedlings of star jasmine can be planted in the garden at any time. Spring is the best season for transplanting. As the temperature rises, your plants will quickly take root and sprout. Thus, the survival rate of transplanting is significantly higher than that in winter dormancy. Due to high temperatures or sun exposure, transplanting seedlings in summer may cause death.
Be sure to choose a slightly higher planting site in the garden to avoid waterlogging. In mild climate areas, star jasmine can be planted on the sunny side of the garden. In hot summer areas, plant in a place shaded by buildings or other plants at noon.
Repot potted star jasmine 2-4 weeks after blooming ends. Lots of nutrients are consumed after blooming, and it needs time to grow and gain nutrients from the soil. In addition, the temperature gradually decreases after the blooming period and the probability of being infected by pests is relatively reduced. During dormancy, it accumulates nutrients needed for growth in the coming year.
Avoiding repotting ornamental star jasmine in spring, which may affect the quantity and quality of blooming in summer. Used as a foliage plant, star jasmine can be repotted in spring. As the temperature rises, it can quickly recover and the growth of leaves basically will not be affected.
As a vine plant, star jasmine's soft branches can be guided to grow in different shapes. It can be planted directly on the ground, or wrapped around trees, ropes, and grids to cover an entire wall. Buy a flower arch and after a period of time, you can get a garden arch full of star jasmine.

Potting Suggestions

Potted plants should be planted in high tubular pots. Build bamboo shelves for climbing.

Seasonal Care Tips

Spring

Summer

Fall

Winter
This plant and other temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs often benefit from early spring care.

1
Spring care includes pruning to remove dead branches. Be careful not to cut away any buds, it will reduce flowering.

2
Apply a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer to support healthy growth.

3
Pay attention to soil moisture levels, and water whenever the top layer of soil is beginning to dry out.

4
Ensure container plants are receiving enough sunlight. Move the plants to a location receiving around six hours of sunlight a day.
Temperate flowering trees, vines, and shrubs like this plant require more care in the summer.

1
Frequent watering in the summer is a must in most climates, especially in the south. Check the soil’s moisture levels daily, watering when it is beginning to dry out.

2
Stop fertilizing in the summer while the plant is not in bloom.

3
summer is the ideal time to remove any spent blooms to encourage re-flowering in the fall.

4
Move container plants out of the bright sunlight.

5
Keep an eye out for pests and diseases. Removing plant debris from the area can help with any potential issues.
Your plant needs a bit of care in the autumn months to keep it looking its best and prepare it for winter.

1
In the late fall, you can give your plant a good prune. Remove any low-hanging or overcrowding branches, along with energy-sapping suckers, to keep the plant growing strong throughout the season.

2
Clean up any fallen leaves around the plant, as these leaves can cause harmful bacteria to grow around the plant.

3
Provide it with enough water to keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry.

4
Make sure it's exposed to strong sunlight and has some shade in the afternoon.

5
Watch out for any pests and diseases, such as mildew that looks like a powdery coating on the plant.
This plant requires some careful care during the winter.

1
It's important for your plant to be exposed to cold winter weather during this season, which will help boost its production in the spring, in a process sometimes called “chilling” your plant. Therefore, don't worry about keeping these plants warm or bringing them inside.

2
You may want to take this dormant time to prune away overcrowding, dead, or diseased parts, however.

Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Star jasmine based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot



This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering



Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Nutrient deficiencies



A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.
Solutions: There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils. Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies. Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy. Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly. Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.
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Petal blight



Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Learn More

Leaf Weevils



Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.

Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases

Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.

Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.

Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.

Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower

Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.

Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.

Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Nutrient deficiencies
A lack of nutrients will cause a widespread yellowing of the leaves. The yellowing may begin at the base or top of the plant.

Overview
Nutrient deficiencies can be seen in many different ways on plants. Basically, the lack of nutrients will inhibit plant growth, produce weak stems and leaves, and leave plants open to infection from pests and diseases. Plants use the nutrients from the soil to help them with photosynthesis. This, in turn, produces healthy plant growth. Plants that lack adequate amounts of nutrients will look lackluster and unhealthy. Eventually, if this is not addressed, it will cause the plants to die. The most important nutrients that plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. Additionally, plants require small amounts of micronutrients such as iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper, and molybdenum.

Symptom Analysis
A common sign that plants are experiencing nutrient deficiencies is the yellowing of leaves. This may be an overall yellowing or leaves that are yellow but still have green veins. These leaves will eventually brown off and die.
Another sign is the loss of plant vigor. The plants may not be growing as well as they should or their growth may be stunted.
Below are some common symptoms that appear when plants are lacking in nutrients.
Nitrogen (N): Inner, older leaves yellow first. If the deficiency is severe, yellowing progresses outward to newer growth.
Potassium (K): Leaf edges may turn brown and crinkly, with a yellowing layer forming just inside of the edge. Older leaves tend to be impacted first.
Phosphorus (P): Lack of vigorous growth. Plants will appear stunted.
Zinc (Zn): Yellowing tends to occur first at the base of the leaf.
Copper (Cu): Newer leaves begin to yellow first, with older leaves yellowing only if the deficiency becomes severe.
Boron (B): Newer leaves are impacted first. Foliage may also become particularly brittle in cases of boron deficiency.

Disease Cause
There are several factors that can lead to nutrient deficiencies, a situation where plants are not receiving the nutrients that they need. This could be because they are planted in nutrient-deficient soils, or that the soil's pH is too high or low. Incorrect soil pH can lock up certain nutrients, thus making them unavailable to plants. Lack of soil moisture can also be a problem, because plants need water to be able to absorb the nutrients from the soil.

Solutions
There are several easy ways to remedy the nutrient deficiencies in soils.
- Use a water-soluble fertilizer. Fertilizers will include most or all of the macro and micro-nutrients the plants need to thrive. Adding some fertilizer to the soil will make those nutrients available and can combat deficiencies.
- Regularly apply organic fertilizer pellets. Organic fertilizers such as animal manures and bonemeal can supply plants with all the nutrients that they need to grow strong and healthy.
- Apply compost. Though not as finely tuned as artificial fertilizer, compost can nevertheless be rich in important nutrients and should be applied to the soil regularly.
- Apply nutrients via foliar application. In addition to supplementing the soil with nutrients, foliar fertilizer can be applied directly to the plant's leaves. Nutrients offered via foliar application are often taken up even quicker than those put in the soil, so the foliar application can be great for swiftly addressing specific deficiencies.

Prevention
There are several easy ways to prevent nutrient deficiencies in plants.
- Regular fertilizing. Regular addition of fertilizer to the soil is one of the simplest and most effective ways to prevent deficiencies.
- Proper watering. Both over and under watering can adversely impact a plant's roots, which in turn makes it harder for them to properly take up nutrients.
- Testing the soil's pH. A soil's acidity or alkalinity will impact the degree to which certain nutrients are available to be taken up by plants. Knowing the soil's pH means it can be amended to suit the needs of the individual plants.
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Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.

Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.

Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
- Pallid spots on colored petals.
- Brown spots on white petals.
- Browning around the petal edges.
- Small spots look water-soaked.
- Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
- Flowers become limp.
- The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
- Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
- A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.

Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.

Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.

Prevention
- Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
- Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
- Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
- Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
- Buy bare-root specimens when available.
- When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
- Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
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Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.

Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.

Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.

Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
- Spray the foliage with an insecticide
- Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
- Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
- Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.

Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
- Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
- Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
- Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
- Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
- Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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More About Star Jasmine

Plant Type
Vine

Lifespan
Perennial

Spread
5 m

Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer

Flower Color
White
Yellow

Leaf Color
Green
Red

Flower Size
2.5 cm

Plant Height
60 to 1000 cm
Name story
Star jasmine
This plant produces a fresh and pleasant fragrance that refreshes anyone in the surrounding. The white flowers are very beautiful and are featured with five tubular petals that look like windmills. With the green leaves of the plant, it makes the flowers seem like the stars in the night sky. So, it is called the star jasmine.
Usages
Garden Use
Star jasmine can be used as a cover plant in gardens or as vertical greenery on walls and rocks. It is prized for its appearance, sweet scent, and the fact that it can trained to grow as a border or to spill over a wall or fence. It is a good fit for cottage or rock gardens and is often planted with Clematis and roses for their complementing blooms.

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Common Problems
Why do the leaves of my star jasmine turn yellow?


- It may be due to insufficient light. Leaves will be greener with sunlight.
- It may be due to the lack of water in the plant or standing water in the soil. You can insert your fingers into the soil to feel the humidity. When star jasmine is deficient in water, it shows yellow and wilted leaves. In that case, apply water and increase air humidity. Standing water in the soil may also lead to anoxic root rot and poor plant growth. Water should be drained and the soil replaced with the new, looser soil.
- It may be due to excessive fertilization, which can also cause damage to the root system. this can be resolved by changing the soil and not fertilizing for some time.
- It may be due to low temperature. Star jasmine should be moved indoors during cold winters.
Why does my star jasmine bloom rarely or not at all?


- It may be due to its short growth time. Generally, star jasmine propagated through seeds needs 4-5 years to bloom.
- It may be due to insufficient light, moisture, or fertilizer. More suitable conditions need to be given to plants.
- It may be due to improper pruning, such as over-pruning before blooming or cutting off flower buds.
- Some varieties of star jasmine bloom less than others. You may want to choose another star jasmine with more flowers.

Caring for a New Plant

The following pictures and instructions for woody plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.

1
Picking a Healthy Woody Plant

Check Its Health

Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.

Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.

Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.

Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.

Health Troubleshooting
Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Leaves











Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.











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Check Its Growing Conditions

Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.

Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.

Temperature Check
Check if the current outdoor temperature is too low or too high.

Condition Troubleshooting
Soil
Ideal Temperature
Suitable Light
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
0 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Outdoor temperature is not suitable for the plant: wait until it's a more favorable temperature for growth.
Partial sun, Full shade
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: Lack of light can result in fewer leaves and branches, and prevent flowering. Move plant to sunnier spot if possible.
Transplant recovery: After 3 days without severe wilting, slowly increase light to normal levels over a week. If plant droops or sheds leaves, keep it in shade. Once wilting stops, give shade until the plant stands up again. Lots of yellowing and leaf loss mean the light is too low and needs to be increased.

2
Adapting Your New Woody Plant
Step 1

Repotting
Plant your plant promptly in its final location or in a new pot, if conditions are suitable. When transplanting, clean the roots of the plant and keep the root system intact. Prune any blackened or rotten roots, spread out a heavily tangled root system, and mix in some well-rotted organic fertilizer. Use permeable soil and water thoroughly after planting.
Step 2

Pruning
Remove yellow or diseased leaves immediately. If leaves are crowded and appear wilted or falling off, remove some of them. For bare-root plants, cut off at least half of the leaves. Pruning is not typically required.
Step 3

Watering
Increase watering in the first week to keep soil moist. Water when soil is slightly dry, for at least 2 weeks. Avoid over-watering. Do not water when there is water on your fingers after touching the soil.
Step 4

Fertilizing
Add a small amount of base fertilizer during transplanting or repotting. No other fertilizer needed for the first month.

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