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FAQ

How to Care for White Velvet

White velvet (Tradescantia sillamontana) is a perennial evergreen species native to northeastern Mexico. White velvet can grow in areas with very little water and is one of the most drought-tolerant species in its genus. This species won't flower if it is given too much water or too much shade. White velvet is a popular plant in ornamental rock gardens in subtropical regions and in Europe.
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White velvet
White velvet
White velvet
White velvet
White velvet
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water White velvet?

The white velvet likes humidity but is afraid of water-logging. Sufficient water should be given to the plant in its growth period, otherwise the plant will stop growing, or even die, if planted in a too-dry area. At the end of fall, sufficient water should be poured for thorough freezing-up of the soil. At the beginning of spring, water should be well poured for thawing of the soil. It is required that the soil be slightly wet; too much moisture will cause root rot. Generally, watering should be carried out at least once a month.
Less water is needed in the winter. Spray the leaves with water frequently if your plant is experiencing dry weather with high temperatures. After a heavy rain, any logged water should be drained in time to prevent root rot caused by excessive soaking.
Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my White velvet?
When watering the White velvet, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the White velvet comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my White velvet too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your White velvet, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the White velvet, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your White velvet have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your White velvet. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your White velvet grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your White velvet is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my White velvet?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your White velvet needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your White velvet outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the White velvet can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my White velvet need?
When it comes time to water your White velvet, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my White velvet at different growth stages?
The water needs of the White velvet can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your White velvet is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your White velvet will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your White velvet will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your White velvet more water at this time.
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How should I water my White velvet through the seasons?
The White velvet will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your White velvet will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my White velvet indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the White velvet indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your White velvet to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your White velvet very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize White velvet?

The white velvet does not require much fertilizer, but sufficient nutrients will contribute to more beautiful flowers. Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied, while an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied every 2 weeks during the growth period. Timely watering after fertilization can prevent the root system from being damaged.
From a seasonal point of view, fertilizer is applied once a fortnight in the spring and fall, but applied according to its growth in the summer and winter. Generally, a nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in the spring, and a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied once in early summer. If the cultivation area is barren, or the plant's growth is weak, the frequency of fertilization can be increased.
At the end of fall, in combination with watering for the freezing-up of soil, an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied once more into the shallow layer of soil. Pay attention to the balance of nutrition when fertilizing; excessive application of a nitrogen fertilizer will make plants more prone to lodging and vulnerable to diseases.

Fertilizer

White velvet is a lovely foliage plant that grows throughout hardiness zones 10, 11, and 12. However, many gardeners choose to grow this plant indoors to enliven their favorite indoor living spaces. While many plants can impress with their blooms, the White velvet will catch your eye with its unique leaf shapes and textures. However, if you want your White velvet to live its best life, you need to know how to take care of it. Part of your care routine should include proper fertilization. Below are a few answers to the most important questions about fertilizing a White velvet.
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the White velvet is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them. White velvet needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a White velvet a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
A White velvet will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall. Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your White velvet about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the White velvet will have far less active growth.
The fertilizer for a White velvet has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your White velvet while you supply water.
The fertilizer that you purchase for your White velvet will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a White velvet, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots. If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
Since it is advisable to fertilize your White velvet every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your White velvet, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration. Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a White velvet. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your White velvet regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your White velvet has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your White velvet incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a White velvet is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my White velvet?
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the White velvet is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them.
White velvet needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a White velvet a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
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When is the best time to fertilize my White velvet?
A White velvet will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall.
Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your White velvet about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the White velvet will have far less active growth.
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When should I avoid fertilizing my White velvet?
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your White velvet regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your White velvet has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your White velvet incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a White velvet is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
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What type of fertilizer does my White velvet need?
The fertilizer for a White velvet has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower.
The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your White velvet while you supply water.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my White velvet?
The fertilizer that you purchase for your White velvet will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a White velvet, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots.
If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
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What happens if I fertilize my White velvet too much?
Since it is advisable to fertilize your White velvet every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your White velvet, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration.
Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a White velvet. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for White velvet?

The white velvet loves light. Insufficient light will lead to overgrowth and yellow leaves, but intense light will burn plants. If it is over-shaded, the white velvet will also grow poorly, with slender leaves and small flowers, making it better to cultivate the plant in a semi-shaded place. If it is cared for indoors, place your plant in a bright location and move it to an outdoor, semi-shaded spot for a period of time every one or two months. This method is conducive to the plant's accumulation of nutrients and growth.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does White velvet need to grow?
White velvet typically needs at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If you are growing your plant outdoors, make sure to choose a spot that receives full sunlight throughout the day. If you are growing your White velvet indoors, try to place it near a south-facing window or another location that receives plenty of sunlight. While White velvet needs full sunlight to grow and thrive, it’s essential to avoid exposing them to direct sunlight during high temperatures, such as over 35°C(95℉) or during hot summer afternoons. If the sunlight is too intense, it can cause the leaves to become scorched or wilted. To avoid this, you can consider using sheer curtains or blinds to filter the sunlight or moving the plant to a shadier spot.
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What will happen if White velvet doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If your White velvet doesn't receive enough sunlight, it may struggle to grow and may become weak and leggy. The leaves may also start to turn yellow, indicating that the plant is not getting enough sunlight to produce chlorophyll. In extreme cases, the plant may even die.
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What will happen if White velvet gets too much sunlight?
While White velvet needs full sunlight, it’s crucial to avoid exposing it to too much direct sunlight. If the plant is exposed to intense sunlight for an extended period, it can start to show signs of sunburn, such as brown or scorched leaves. To avoid this, make sure to monitor the plant and move it to a shadier spot if necessary.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune White velvet?

In order to keep its graceful plant shape and prolong its flowering period in the fall, it is necessary to consistently remove dense and diseased leaves. Old stems should be trimmed, and you should also maintain ventilation and light transmission, which will promote the growth of new tillers. After flowering, the residual flower stems, as well as any dead branches and leaves, should be cut off to promote the development of new flower stems.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Is pruning necessary for my White velvet?
It is helpful to lightly prune this plant periodically during the spring and summer. When performing this light pruning, you should search for leaves that have wilted, become discolored, show signs of disease, or have died completely. Remove dead or damaged leaves by cutting their petioles, or trimming off stems that have died. This will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Some gardeners also choose to remove the flower buds of the White velvet. However, removing flower buds before they open is a strictly aesthetic decision that will emphasize the beauty of this plant’s showy leaves.
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When should I prune my White velvet?
You can prune your White velvet any time you notice dead, diseased, or damaged leaves during the growing season. Once you notice such a leave, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. you can cut its stem just above the soil’s surface to remove it. Such pruning can take place as needed during spring and summer. Also, this plant can bloom any time between spring and fall, and some gardeners choose to remove flower buds before they have a chance to open. Removing unopened flower buds allows this plant to focus most of its growing energy on its beautiful leaves. However, pruning in this manner does not necessarily influence the plant’s overall health.
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How do I prune my White velvet?
Pruning the White velvet is as easy as waiting until you notice dead or damaged leaves on your plant. When you recognize these leaves, equip yourself with a pair of sharp and sterile hand pruning shears. Hand pruning shears will work best as larger tools like loppers will not be well suited to the precise cuts you need to make. Once you have a proper set of pruning tools, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Cut the stem just above where it exits the soil to remove it entirely. If you wish to stop this plant from flowering, you can use the same pruning shears to remove any buds before they open. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my White velvet?
Since pruning for the White velvet should take place periodically throughout the season, what you do after pruning can vary. For instance, if you prune to remove selected leaves and stems from your White velvet, you won’t need to do anything except continue your regular maintenance routine. At times, you may choose to remove healthier leaves and include them in a display of cut flowers and foliage. However, there is no crucial maintenance task to perform for this plant after typical pruning. The only thing to note is that when watering after pruning, you need to be careful not to touch the wound to prevent fungus from infecting the plant through the fresh wound. Placing White velvet in a well-ventilated location will also help the wounds to dry out and heal in time. The timely replenishment of White velvet after pruning will help the White velvet to recover as soon as possible.
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Are there any important tips when pruning my White velvet?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. As you are pruning your White velvet, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetrically. If the overall growth of the plant is weak, the flowers need to be pruned back in time for flowering to be able to save nutrients for leaf growth and allow the plant to grow more vigorously.
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care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for White velvet?

The white velvet is native to America and grows well at a temperature of 18 to 30 ℃. It doesn't like the cold and frost of winter, meaning that its overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10 ℃. Once the temperature drops below 4 ℃, the plant will enter a dormant state. At 0 ℃, the plant may be frozen to death directly. The white velvet prefers a humid environment and requires the relative humidity of the air in its growth environment to be between 60-75%. It is not resistant to drought or water-logging.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for White velvet?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does White velvet require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While White velvet doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does White velvet need different temperatures for different seasons?
White velvet does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your White velvet healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my White velvet?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for White velvet is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for White velvet?

The white velvet isn't fussy when it comes to soil, and the plant can grow normally in both sandy and loam soil. With certain saline-alkali tolerance, it can also grow in mild saline-alkali soil, although it does best in neutral or alkaline soil. The white velvet likes fertilizer; it won't grow well in poor soil, with slender plants that have no or few flowers. When it is cultured as a potted plant, perlite with good water permeability and drainage can be selected as its substrate, while sandy loam is also a good choice.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate White velvet?

The white velvet can be propagated by offshoots and cuttings. Offshoot propagation is generally carried out before germination in early spring. Only vigorous and well-proportioned plants should be chosen as stock plants. Dig the plant out of the soil, remove the soil, brushing it off the roots with a brush, and then separate the root from the stock plant with a knife. Then, smear the wound with sulfur powder or plant ash, and dry it slightly before planting.
It is best to carry out cuttage propagation in the late spring or summer. Before cutting, substrates should be disinfected, and drugs should be applied to prevent the cuttings from harm by underground pests. The cutting should be selected from the main stem or a mature lateral branch. The base end needs to be cut flat from the stem node, and the top end from the leaf axils, and 2/3 of its leaves should also be cut off.
Cuttings need to be dipped in clear water for 1-2 hours to soak off the incision mucus, so as to facilitate faster rooting. The cutting depth should be 1/3 of the length of the cutting, and sufficient watering will be necessary after cutting. Keep the substrate moist, and the cutting will root in 10 to 15 days. After rooting, the water content should be gradually kept in control, and a thin liquid fertilizer should be continuously sprayed to promote a stronger and thicker root system.

Propagation

The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate White velvet. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. What you will need for breeding:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. The cutting needs to have at least one leaf but should not have any flowers. Using your sterilized scissors, cut through the stem just below a leaf joint, because the root system usually grows from the there. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Pinch off the lower leaves on the cutting until there are just the top 4 to 6 leaves remaining. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Cover the container with the humidity dome or a clear plastic bag. Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the White velvet dry out. If there is too much humidity, remove the cover periodically to allow some evaporation.
Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the White velvet. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the White velvet to more sunlight and removing the cover so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of White velvet. After this period, White velvet can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant White velvet?

The white velvet is generally planted by cuttage, with this being best done in the autumn. When growing the plant in a pot, change its soil once a year. When changing the pot soil in the spring, cut off any old stems, so that the axillary buds can germinate and grow.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest White velvet?

The white velvet flowers in the summer or early fall. It can be harvested at this time too by drying the flowers in the sun to retain their original bright color. The whole grass can also be cut for use as a medicine.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant White velvet?

Transplanting white velvet is best done from early spring to late spring, as well as late fall to late winter, for optimal growth. Position white velvet in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Remember to space the plants adequately to encourage healthy development.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary
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More Info on White Velvet Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
White velvet has a preference for ample sunlight exposure. In its natural environment, it absorbs considerable sunlight to ensure vigorous growth. It can endure a lesser intensity of sun, but health might decline with insufficient light. An over-exposure could risk scorching its leaves or stressing the plant.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
As a white velvet native to high-altitude environments, it prefers cool to warm temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). In warmer months, place the plant in a cooler spot to avoid overheating. During colder seasons, provide extra warmth through indoor heating or supplemental lighting to maintain the preferred temperature range.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-12 inches
Transplanting white velvet is best done from early spring to late spring, as well as late fall to late winter, for optimal growth. Position white velvet in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Remember to space the plants adequately to encourage healthy development.
Transplant Techniques
Overwinter
0 - 43 ℃
White velvet hails from the arid landscapes of northeastern Mexico, readily embracing cold climates with its dense, white woolly foliage; a sublime winter adaptation. When cultivated, ensure it receives bright, indirect light and has excellent drainage to mimic its native arid conditions. Let the soil dry out between waterings, decrease feeding, and protect white velvet from temperatures below 30°F for optimal winter care.
Winter Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Autumn
A succulent with fuzzy, silvery leaves, white velvet requires minimal pruning to maintain shape and encourage growth. Trim back any leggy stems, remove dead or damaged leaves, and pinch off tips to promote bushiness. Pruning is best done from early spring to late fall, allowing the plant to rejuvenate. Pruning not only improves appearance but also prevents disease by enhancing air circulation within the foliage.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
West
The white velvet is thought to exhibit a harmonious relationship with the West-facing direction in Feng Shui practice. This compatibility is attributed to the plant's resplendent white foliage, which symbolizes purity and innocence, resonating well with the element of Metal predominant in the West. However, due to the interpretive nature of Feng Shui, individual experiences and results may vary.
Fengshui Details
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Seasonal Care Tips

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Seasonal Precautions

Spring: Keep the plant sufficiently watered and apply a thin fertilizer frequently during its growth period. Summer: Ensure that 70% of the planting area is shaded, and pay attention to ventilation and spray cooling. Autumn: Keep basin soil moist and ensure that the plant is receiving bright, scattered light; don't forget that it is suitable for cuttage in autumn. Winter: Provide the plant with more sunlight, but control watering and stop fertilizing; a safe overwintering temperature is above 10 ℃.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical herbs like your plant are easy to care for throughout the year but require a little extra attention in the spring.

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1
Spring is the ideal time to repot root-bound plants and propagate new ones by cutting off some of the trailing vines.
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Water once every week or so when the soil is drying out and fertilize with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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3
Ensure the plant is receiving enough sunlight but be careful to not burn the leaves.
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4
Spring is also a good time for propagation. Carefully remove a green stem and place it in water. When roots appear, transplant the cutting to a container.

Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

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1
Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.
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2
Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
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3
Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.
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4
Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.
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5
New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.

As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

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1
Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer
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2
Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.
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3
You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.
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4
Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.
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5
However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.

This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

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1
At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.
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2
The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.
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3
It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for White velvet based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Leaf tips withering
Leaf tips withering Leaf tips withering
Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf tips withering
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.
Solutions
Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
  1. Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
  2. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
  1. Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Prevention
Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
  1. Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
  2. Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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More About White Velvet

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
40 to 50 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Silver
Gray
White
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 to 20 cm

Usages

Garden Use
White velvet grows with a spreading habit, ideal for forming ground cover in warm climates or as a potted houseplant in cool climates. Although it is mainly grown for its decorative foliage, it also provides clusters of bright pinkish flowers lasting for about a month.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of my white velvet yellowing?

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It is very common for the white velvet to have yellow leaves when it is cultivated indoors. Possible reasons and solutions:
Sudden environmental changes: If the white velvet didn't take long to grow yellow leaves after the plant was brought home, this is usually because the plant has not adapted to its new environment. Solution: Just follow its maintenance method to provide the most suitable growth environment for the plant. After careful caring for some time, the leaves of the white velvet will turn green again.
The light is too strong: The white velvet prefers a semi-shaded environment. It should be placed in a location with sufficient astigmatism during indoor maintenance, and sheltered from the sunshine during the summer. Otherwise, if exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves of the plant will become dim, short, yellow and withered. Solution: Move the plant to a cool and ventilated place, and then gradually acclimate it to a location with astigmatism once it has recovered.
Water and fertilizer are insufficient: The white velvet likes a humid environment. If it is not watered enough, or not watered thoroughly for a long time, the plants will turn yellow due to a lack of water. In addition, its growth depends on sufficient nutrients; if not enough fertilizer is provided, the plant will lack nutrients and its leaves will turn yellow. Solution: Consistently replenish water, and spray around the potted plant with a water sprayer to increase air humidity. Timely supplement of fertilizer is also important; the amount should be controlled, of course, with an organic fertilizer applied just once or twice a month.
Root rot: While water and fertilizer are important, do not overdo them, otherwise the white velvet will soon develop root rot. If there is a problem with the plant's roots, it won't be able to absorb nutrients efficiently, leading to its leaves naturally turning yellow. Solution: Cut off the rotten roots in time, disinfect them, and then replant them with new soil.
Diseases and pests: Although not susceptible to many diseases and pests, the white velvet occasionally suffers from scale insects and leaf blight, which may cause the yellowing of plant leaves. Solution: Firstly, determine what kind of disease or pest is causing the damage, and then carry out prevention measures with pesticide spraying. For details, please refer to the section on prevention and control of the diseases and pests that commonly harm the white velvet.
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White velvet
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White velvet

How to Care for White Velvet

White velvet (Tradescantia sillamontana) is a perennial evergreen species native to northeastern Mexico. White velvet can grow in areas with very little water and is one of the most drought-tolerant species in its genus. This species won't flower if it is given too much water or too much shade. White velvet is a popular plant in ornamental rock gardens in subtropical regions and in Europe.
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Symbolism

Immortality, optimism and moral authority
Water
Every week
Water
Sunlight
Full sun
Sunlight Sunlight detail
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

How to Water White velvet?

Cultivation:WaterDetail
The white velvet likes humidity but is afraid of water-logging. Sufficient water should be given to the plant in its growth period, otherwise the plant will stop growing, or even die, if planted in a too-dry area. At the end of fall, sufficient water should be poured for thorough freezing-up of the soil. At the beginning of spring, water should be well poured for thawing of the soil. It is required that the soil be slightly wet; too much moisture will cause root rot. Generally, watering should be carried out at least once a month.
Less water is needed in the winter. Spray the leaves with water frequently if your plant is experiencing dry weather with high temperatures. After a heavy rain, any logged water should be drained in time to prevent root rot caused by excessive soaking.
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What is the best way to water my White velvet?
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

How to Fertilize White velvet?

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
The white velvet does not require much fertilizer, but sufficient nutrients will contribute to more beautiful flowers. Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied, while an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied every 2 weeks during the growth period. Timely watering after fertilization can prevent the root system from being damaged.
From a seasonal point of view, fertilizer is applied once a fortnight in the spring and fall, but applied according to its growth in the summer and winter. Generally, a nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in the spring, and a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied once in early summer. If the cultivation area is barren, or the plant's growth is weak, the frequency of fertilization can be increased.
At the end of fall, in combination with watering for the freezing-up of soil, an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied once more into the shallow layer of soil. Pay attention to the balance of nutrition when fertilizing; excessive application of a nitrogen fertilizer will make plants more prone to lodging and vulnerable to diseases.
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Fertilizer

White velvet is a lovely foliage plant that grows throughout hardiness zones 10, 11, and 12. However, many gardeners choose to grow this plant indoors to enliven their favorite indoor living spaces. While many plants can impress with their blooms, the White velvet will catch your eye with its unique leaf shapes and textures. However, if you want your White velvet to live its best life, you need to know how to take care of it. Part of your care routine should include proper fertilization. Below are a few answers to the most important questions about fertilizing a White velvet.
All plants rely on soil nutrients to facilitate their growth, and the White velvet is no exception. However, it is not always a guarantee that the soil in which your plants grow will have all of the nutrients required. Fertilization and soil amendments help ensure that the plants in your garden not only have the basic nutrients they need but also that they get the nutrients that are specifically necessary to them. White velvet needs fertilizer to ensure that its roots and stems continue to develop in a healthy way throughout the growing season. Fertilization will also help a White velvet a set of leaves that looks fantastic, which is especially important for this plant since its foliage is its main point of ornamental appeal.
A White velvet will need the greatest amount of fertilizer during the seasons in which it is actively growing. This active growth phase typically spans most of the months that make up spring, summer, and early fall. Once winter ends, you should plan to feed your White velvet about once every two to four weeks. Continue feeding at this rate until the fall months arrive. Once fall arrives, you can reduce your fertilization rate, reducing the amount of fertilizer you give gradually until you cease feedings entirely in anticipation of winter, when the White velvet will have far less active growth.
The fertilizer for a White velvet has a specific blend of nutrients, each of which is present in relatively low amounts. An ideal fertilizer will have an N-P-K ratio of 3-1-2. However, a general-purpose fertilizer that has an even blend of nutrients can work well in some cases. Still, even when using a balanced fertilizer, the ratio number representing the volume of each nutrient should be at 10 or lower. The fertilizer you use can be either granular or liquid based. If you choose to use a liquid-based fertilizer, it is often best to dilute the strength by half. While there is not much downside to granular fertilizer, it is often most sensible to use liquid fertilizer, especially if you feed your White velvet while you supply water.
The fertilizer that you purchase for your White velvet will likely come with application instructions that you should follow in most cases. However, for a White velvet, you should always fertilize just before or while you are watering the soil, as this will prevent the fertilizer from burning the plant's roots. If you use a slow-release granular fertilizer, you should sprinkle it on the soil and then provide water immediately after. If you use a liquid-based fertilizer, you should dilute it with water, apply it to the soil, then supply a bit more water. Diluting your fertilizer by at least half is especially important in spring and fall when the plant's growth is ramping up and decelerating, respectively.
Since it is advisable to fertilize your White velvet every few weeks throughout the growing season, overfertilization is not often an issue. However, it remains possible for this to occur. If you overfertilize your White velvet, you may notice accumulations of excess fertilizer on the soil’s surface and foliage discoloration. Fertilizer burn is the most common issue you should worry about when feeding a White velvet. This issue occurs when you overfertilize, fail to dilute your fertilizer, or when don’t water during and after fertilization. In any of those cases, the fertilizer can draw moisture out of your plant’s roots, causing it to dry out. Often, fertilizer burn will manifest with browning and yellowing of this plant’s leaves.
Throughout most of the year, including spring, summer, and most of the fall, you should continue feeding your White velvet regularly. The only exception to this is if you notice that your White velvet has received too much fertilizer or if you have managed to fertilize your White velvet incorrectly, causing fertilizer burn or some other issue that you'll need to remedy before returning to a regular feeding schedule.
The only time of year when you should not fertilize a White velvet is during winter. If you grow this plant indoors in an area where the winters are cold, it will enter a dormant phase during the winter. Feeding this plant during its dormant phase is not only unnecessary and unhelpful to this plant's growth, but it is also very likely to cause fertilizer burn.
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

What Are the Sunlight Requirements for White velvet?

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
The white velvet loves light. Insufficient light will lead to overgrowth and yellow leaves, but intense light will burn plants. If it is over-shaded, the white velvet will also grow poorly, with slender leaves and small flowers, making it better to cultivate the plant in a semi-shaded place. If it is cared for indoors, place your plant in a bright location and move it to an outdoor, semi-shaded spot for a period of time every one or two months. This method is conducive to the plant's accumulation of nutrients and growth.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

How to Prune White velvet?

Cultivation:PruningDetail
In order to keep its graceful plant shape and prolong its flowering period in the fall, it is necessary to consistently remove dense and diseased leaves. Old stems should be trimmed, and you should also maintain ventilation and light transmission, which will promote the growth of new tillers. After flowering, the residual flower stems, as well as any dead branches and leaves, should be cut off to promote the development of new flower stems.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

What is the Ideal Temperature Range for White velvet?

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
The white velvet is native to America and grows well at a temperature of 18 to 30 ℃. It doesn't like the cold and frost of winter, meaning that its overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10 ℃. Once the temperature drops below 4 ℃, the plant will enter a dormant state. At 0 ℃, the plant may be frozen to death directly. The white velvet prefers a humid environment and requires the relative humidity of the air in its growth environment to be between 60-75%. It is not resistant to drought or water-logging.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

What Soil is Best for White velvet?

Cultivation:SoilDetail
The white velvet isn't fussy when it comes to soil, and the plant can grow normally in both sandy and loam soil. With certain saline-alkali tolerance, it can also grow in mild saline-alkali soil, although it does best in neutral or alkaline soil. The white velvet likes fertilizer; it won't grow well in poor soil, with slender plants that have no or few flowers. When it is cultured as a potted plant, perlite with good water permeability and drainage can be selected as its substrate, while sandy loam is also a good choice.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

How to Propagate White velvet?

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
The white velvet can be propagated by offshoots and cuttings. Offshoot propagation is generally carried out before germination in early spring. Only vigorous and well-proportioned plants should be chosen as stock plants. Dig the plant out of the soil, remove the soil, brushing it off the roots with a brush, and then separate the root from the stock plant with a knife. Then, smear the wound with sulfur powder or plant ash, and dry it slightly before planting.
It is best to carry out cuttage propagation in the late spring or summer. Before cutting, substrates should be disinfected, and drugs should be applied to prevent the cuttings from harm by underground pests. The cutting should be selected from the main stem or a mature lateral branch. The base end needs to be cut flat from the stem node, and the top end from the leaf axils, and 2/3 of its leaves should also be cut off.
Cuttings need to be dipped in clear water for 1-2 hours to soak off the incision mucus, so as to facilitate faster rooting. The cutting depth should be 1/3 of the length of the cutting, and sufficient watering will be necessary after cutting. Keep the substrate moist, and the cutting will root in 10 to 15 days. After rooting, the water content should be gradually kept in control, and a thin liquid fertilizer should be continuously sprayed to promote a stronger and thicker root system.
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Propagation

The active growing season during the spring and summer is the best time to propagate White velvet. During this period, the plants are generating a lot of energy for new growth and should have plenty of stems that can be used for propagation. They can also recover from having cuttings taken during this season than during the slower autumn and winter seasons. What you will need for breeding:
  1. Sharp scissors or knife
  2. Diluted bleach solution or isopropyl alcohol to clean tools
  3. Pot(s) or nursery tray with drainage holes
  4. All-purpose potting mix or seed starting mix
  5. Clear plastic bag or a humidity dome for covering cuttings
  6. Rooting hormone (optional but recommended)
Steps: Step 1: Prepare containers by filling them with moistened planting material leaving about half an inch of space from the top of the container. Step 2: Choose healthy parts for propagation. The cutting needs to have at least one leaf but should not have any flowers. Using your sterilized scissors, cut through the stem just below a leaf joint, because the root system usually grows from the there. The length of the cutting should not be too long, for once the cutting takes root, it has actually become an individual plant. No body wants a plant to grow long and thin from the beginning. Be sure to make a clean cut, and don’t crush the stem as that can leave the plant vulnerable to infection. Sterilize cutting tools between plants if you are taking multiple cuttings. Step 3: Pinch off the lower leaves on the cutting until there are just the top 4 to 6 leaves remaining. Dip the bottom end of the cutting into rooting powder (if using) according to the directions. Step 4: Make a hole in the soil for each cutting, and place the cutting inside so that the soil line is at the lower leaves. Press soil around the cutting, then repeat until all cuttings are planted and then water thoroughly. Step 5: Cover the container with the humidity dome or a clear plastic bag. Place it in a location where the cuttings can get light but no direct sunlight, as this can be too intense for cuttings. Water occasionally and do not let the White velvet dry out. If there is too much humidity, remove the cover periodically to allow some evaporation.
Most species will begin to produce roots in about 3 weeks, After rooting, the plant will gradually grow new leaves, at which time you can start to harden off the White velvet. Hardening off involves gradually exposing the White velvet to more sunlight and removing the cover so that they have time to adjust before being moved permanently outside. Hardening off should usually take about 1 to 2 weeks depending on the outdoor conditions and the type of White velvet. After this period, White velvet can be planted in containers or directly in the ground.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail

How to Plant White velvet?

Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The white velvet is generally planted by cuttage, with this being best done in the autumn. When growing the plant in a pot, change its soil once a year. When changing the pot soil in the spring, cut off any old stems, so that the axillary buds can germinate and grow.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail

How to Harvest White velvet?

Cultivation:HarvestDetail
The white velvet flowers in the summer or early fall. It can be harvested at this time too by drying the flowers in the sun to retain their original bright color. The whole grass can also be cut for use as a medicine.
PlantCare:TransplantSummary

How to Transplant White velvet?

PlantCare:TransplantSummary
Transplanting white velvet is best done from early spring to late spring, as well as late fall to late winter, for optimal growth. Position white velvet in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Remember to space the plants adequately to encourage healthy development.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

Spring: Keep the plant sufficiently watered and apply a thin fertilizer frequently during its growth period. Summer: Ensure that 70% of the planting area is shaded, and pay attention to ventilation and spray cooling. Autumn: Keep basin soil moist and ensure that the plant is receiving bright, scattered light; don't forget that it is suitable for cuttage in autumn. Winter: Provide the plant with more sunlight, but control watering and stop fertilizing; a safe overwintering temperature is above 10 ℃.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

Tropical herbs like your plant are easy to care for throughout the year but require a little extra attention in the spring.

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1
Spring is the ideal time to repot root-bound plants and propagate new ones by cutting off some of the trailing vines.
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Water once every week or so when the soil is drying out and fertilize with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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3
Ensure the plant is receiving enough sunlight but be careful to not burn the leaves.
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Spring is also a good time for propagation. Carefully remove a green stem and place it in water. When roots appear, transplant the cutting to a container.

Your plant and other tropical herbs may require more frequent watering in the summer.

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Check the soil weekly to see if it is drying out.
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Continue feeding the plant monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
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Remove any dead or yellowing leaves and keep the plant out of direct sunlight to avoid burning the foliage.
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Check the plant and surrounding area for pests. Gardeners also want to check the leaves and stem for any signs of disease.
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5
New growth can be removed from the parent plant for propagation. Place the cutting in water and replant when roots appear.

As your plant continues growing through the fall, continue your care of this plant.

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Fertilize it on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer
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Make sure the soil is kept moist through regular watering, giving the plant water whenever the soil becomes dry.
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You can take cuttings and propagate more plants during this season as well, repotting fresh-cut stems and letting them grow.
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4
Give your plant plenty of indirect light, which will continue to encourage growth throughout the season.
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However, you must watch out for pests and other diseases, as with all other seasons of growth.

This plant needs only minimal care during these cold winter months.

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At this time, provide less water and reduce or stop fertilization.
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The plant will require no extra pruning, but will require strong indirect sunlight, so ensure it’s placed in an ideal location to keep the plant thriving and ready for spring.
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It's best to ensure the plant isn't exposed to freezing temperatures and kept in warm indoor rooms. Otherwise, you can leave this plant alone until the weather warms up and the plant awakens.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for White velvet based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Leaf tips withering
Leaf tips withering Leaf tips withering Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
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Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf tips withering
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.
Solutions
Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
  1. Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
  2. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
  1. Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Prevention
Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
  1. Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
  2. Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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More About White Velvet

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
40 to 50 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Silver
Gray
White
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 to 20 cm

Usages

Garden Use
White velvet grows with a spreading habit, ideal for forming ground cover in warm climates or as a potted houseplant in cool climates. Although it is mainly grown for its decorative foliage, it also provides clusters of bright pinkish flowers lasting for about a month.
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Common Problems

Why are the leaves of my white velvet yellowing?

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It is very common for the white velvet to have yellow leaves when it is cultivated indoors. Possible reasons and solutions:
Sudden environmental changes: If the white velvet didn't take long to grow yellow leaves after the plant was brought home, this is usually because the plant has not adapted to its new environment. Solution: Just follow its maintenance method to provide the most suitable growth environment for the plant. After careful caring for some time, the leaves of the white velvet will turn green again.
The light is too strong: The white velvet prefers a semi-shaded environment. It should be placed in a location with sufficient astigmatism during indoor maintenance, and sheltered from the sunshine during the summer. Otherwise, if exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves of the plant will become dim, short, yellow and withered. Solution: Move the plant to a cool and ventilated place, and then gradually acclimate it to a location with astigmatism once it has recovered.
Water and fertilizer are insufficient: The white velvet likes a humid environment. If it is not watered enough, or not watered thoroughly for a long time, the plants will turn yellow due to a lack of water. In addition, its growth depends on sufficient nutrients; if not enough fertilizer is provided, the plant will lack nutrients and its leaves will turn yellow. Solution: Consistently replenish water, and spray around the potted plant with a water sprayer to increase air humidity. Timely supplement of fertilizer is also important; the amount should be controlled, of course, with an organic fertilizer applied just once or twice a month.
Root rot: While water and fertilizer are important, do not overdo them, otherwise the white velvet will soon develop root rot. If there is a problem with the plant's roots, it won't be able to absorb nutrients efficiently, leading to its leaves naturally turning yellow. Solution: Cut off the rotten roots in time, disinfect them, and then replant them with new soil.
Diseases and pests: Although not susceptible to many diseases and pests, the white velvet occasionally suffers from scale insects and leaf blight, which may cause the yellowing of plant leaves. Solution: Firstly, determine what kind of disease or pest is causing the damage, and then carry out prevention measures with pesticide spraying. For details, please refer to the section on prevention and control of the diseases and pests that commonly harm the white velvet.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
White velvet has a preference for ample sunlight exposure. In its natural environment, it absorbs considerable sunlight to ensure vigorous growth. It can endure a lesser intensity of sun, but health might decline with insufficient light. An over-exposure could risk scorching its leaves or stressing the plant.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
White velvet thrives in full sunlight but is often cultivated indoors during winter due to sensitivity to cold. This increases the chance of being placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, leading to noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your white velvet may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
White velvet thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
As a white velvet native to high-altitude environments, it prefers cool to warm temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). In warmer months, place the plant in a cooler spot to avoid overheating. During colder seasons, provide extra warmth through indoor heating or supplemental lighting to maintain the preferred temperature range.
Regional wintering strategies
White velvet is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown White velvet indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
White velvet prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, White velvet should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant White Velvet?
Transplanting white velvet is best done from early spring to late spring, as well as late fall to late winter, for optimal growth. Position white velvet in well-draining soil with partial to full sun exposure. Remember to space the plants adequately to encourage healthy development.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting White Velvet?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting White Velvet?
White velvet truly thrives when relocated from early to late spring, or in the latter part of fall through winter. These timeframes grant the plant a strong start, allowing its intricate root system ample time to establish itself prior to dealing with harsher warmer conditions. Through this careful timing, you're also adding a lush, green aesthetic to your space just when you need it the most. Remember, a flourishing white velvet is not an accident, it's a result of thoughtfully timed transplanting. So why wait? Prepare your garden pots for the arrival of the stunning white velvet!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between White Velvet Plants?
For white velvet, it's important to give them some room to grow. Space them 6 - 12 inches (15 - 30 cm) apart when transplanting for optimal growth and development.
What is the Best Soil Mix for White Velvet Transplanting?
A well-draining soil mix is perfect for white velvet. Additionally, enrich the soil with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10 granular formula) to support their growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your White Velvet?
Choose a location for your white velvet that receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct afternoon sun, as it can be a bit too intense for these delicate beauties.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation White Velvet?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
For digging planting holes and removing the plant from its original location.
Gardening Trowel
For more precise digging and soil manipulation around the plant's roots.
Watering Can or Hose
For watering the white velvet plant during transplanting and aftercare.
Organic Matter or Compost
To improve soil quality and provide nutrients for the white velvet plant.
Mulch
To help retain moisture and suppress weeds after transplanting.
How Do You Remove White Velvet from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the white velvet plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the white velvet plant before transplanting. Gently tip the pot to loosen the root ball. If necessary, carefully use a gardening trowel to remove the plant and its soil by working around the edges of the pot.
From Seedling Tray: If your white velvet plant is in a seedling tray, water the tray and gently loosen the soil around the plant using a gardening trowel. Carefully lift the seedling from the tray, supporting its root ball and avoiding damage to the roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting White Velvet
Site Preparation
Prepare the transplanting site by removing any weeds and debris and loosening the soil with a shovel or spade. Amend the soil with organic matter or compost to improve its quality and fertility.
Digging Hole
Dig a hole at the transplanting site, deep and wide enough to accommodate the white velvet plant's root ball comfortably.
Placing Plant
Gently place the white velvet plant in the hole, ensuring its root ball is level with the surrounding soil surface. Spread the roots out for better establishment.
Backfilling
Fill in the space around the white velvet plant's root ball with soil, gently pressing down to remove air pockets and provide support for the plant.
Watering
Water the white velvet plant thoroughly to settle the soil, making sure that it reaches the root zone. Avoid overwatering, as this may cause root rot.
Mulching
Apply a layer of mulch around the plant to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the stem to prevent any fungal issues.
How Do You Care For White Velvet After Transplanting?
Monitoring
Regularly check the white velvet plant for signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves, after transplanting. Address these issues promptly to ensure a successful transplant.
Watering
Maintain consistent moisture for the white velvet plant, especially during the first few weeks after transplant. Avoid overwatering to prevent root rot.
Fertilizing
After the white velvet plant is established, apply a balanced fertilizer to encourage healthy growth. Always follow the guidelines provided by the fertilizer manufacturer.
Pruning
Regularly prune the white velvet plant to maintain an attractive shape and encourage bushy growth. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased foliage to promote plant health.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with White Velvet Transplantation.
When is the ideal time for transplanting white velvet?
The best time to transplant white velvet is during the transition of seasons, particularly from early to late spring or from late fall to the heart of winter.
What is the optimal spacing between white velvet plants during transplanting?
When transplanting, ensure a distance of 6 - 12 inches (15 - 30 cm) between white velvet plants. This allows enough space for each plant to grow and spread.
Is there a specific soil mix needed for white velvet transplantation?
White velvet is not picky about soil, but it's best to use a well-draining soil mix. This ensures the roots don't stay waterlogged, avoiding potential rot.
How deep should I plant white velvet during transplantation?
Plant white velvet to the same depth as its previous pot. Expose the top of the root ball slightly. This has the dual purpose of encouraging growth and preventing rot.
Do I need to water white velvet immediately after transplanting?
Yes, ensure to water white velvet generously after transplanting. This helps settle the soil around the roots and reduces the shock of transplantation on the plant.
Should I prune white velvet before, during, or after transplantation?
It's not necessary to prune white velvet for transplantation. If you wish to manage its size, light pruning before transplant can be beneficial, but be gentle to not stress it.
Can sunlight affect white velvet after transplanting?
White velvet prefers bright but indirect light. After transplantation, try not to expose the plant to direct harsh sun rays as it may cause leaf burn.
How often should I water white velvet after transplanting?
For the first few weeks after transplanting, water white velvet whenever the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil dries out. This encourages new root development.
Should I immediately fertilize white velvet after transplanting?
No, wait a few weeks to let white velvet acclimate to its new environment before starting with a light fertilizer. Then feed it lightly every 1-2 months.
What should I do if the leaves of white velvet start yellowing after the transplant?
Yellow leaves could be a sign of overwatering. Let the soil dry out a bit and ensure the plant isn't in a place with extreme heat or cold.
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