It is helpful to lightly prune this plant periodically during the spring and summer. When performing this light pruning, you should search for leaves that have wilted, become discolored, show signs of disease, or have died completely. Remove dead or damaged leaves by cutting their petioles, or trimming off stems that have died. This will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Some gardeners also choose to remove the flower buds of the Silver inch plant. However, removing flower buds before they open is a strictly aesthetic decision that will emphasize the beauty of this plant’s showy leaves.
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How to care Silver Inch Plant
The silver inch plant is a popular trailing plant known for its attractive foliage with zebra-like stripes of green, silver, and purple. Wandering jew is very easy to care for and can be hung or placed indoors. The plant grows fast; the creeping stems bear roots along the way, making it suitable as ground cover.
Symbolism
Simplicity, purity, elegance
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Full shade
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Basic Care Guide
Water
The silver inch plant likes humidity but is afraid of water-logging. Sufficient water should be given to the plant in its growth period, otherwise the plant will stop growing, or even die, if planted in a too-dry area. At the end of fall, sufficient water should be poured for thorough freezing-up of the soil. At the beginning of spring, water should be well poured for thawing of the soil. It is required that the soil be slightly wet; too much moisture will cause root rot. Generally, watering should be carried out at least once a month.
Less water is needed in the winter. Spray the leaves with water frequently if your plant is experiencing dry weather with high temperatures. After a heavy rain, any logged water should be drained in time to prevent root rot caused by excessive soaking.
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Fertilizer
The silver inch plant does not require much fertilizer, but sufficient nutrients will contribute to more beautiful flowers. Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied, while an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied every 2 weeks during the growth period. Timely watering after fertilization can prevent the root system from being damaged.
From a seasonal point of view, fertilizer is applied once a fortnight in the spring and fall, but applied according to its growth in the summer and winter. Generally, a nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in the spring, and a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied once in early summer. If the cultivation area is barren, or the plant's growth is weak, the frequency of fertilization can be increased.
At the end of fall, in combination with watering for the freezing-up of soil, an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied once more into the shallow layer of soil. Pay attention to the balance of nutrition when fertilizing; excessive application of a nitrogen fertilizer will make plants more prone to lodging and vulnerable to diseases.
Sunlight
The silver inch plant loves light. Insufficient light will lead to overgrowth and yellow leaves, but intense light will burn plants. If it is over-shaded, the silver inch plant will also grow poorly, with slender leaves and small flowers, making it better to cultivate the plant in a semi-shaded place. If it is cared for indoors, place your plant in a bright location and move it to an outdoor, semi-shaded spot for a period of time every one or two months. this method is conducive to the plant's accumulation of nutrients and growth.
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Pruning
In order to keep its graceful plant shape and prolong its flowering period in the fall, it is necessary to consistently remove dense and diseased leaves. Old stems should be trimmed, and you should also maintain ventilation and light transmission, which will promote the growth of new tillers. After flowering, the residual flower stems, as well as any dead branches and leaves, should be cut off to promote the development of new flower stems.
Is pruning necessary for my Silver inch plant?
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When should I prune my Silver inch plant?
You can prune your Silver inch plant any time you notice dead, diseased, or damaged leaves during the growing season. Once you notice such a leave, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. you can cut its stem just above the soil’s surface to remove it. Such pruning can take place as needed during spring and summer. Also, this plant can bloom any time between spring and fall, and some gardeners choose to remove flower buds before they have a chance to open. Removing unopened flower buds allows this plant to focus most of its growing energy on its beautiful leaves. However, pruning in this manner does not necessarily influence the plant’s overall health.
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How do I prune my Silver inch plant?
Pruning the Silver inch plant is as easy as waiting until you notice dead or damaged leaves on your plant. When you recognize these leaves, equip yourself with a pair of sharp and sterile hand pruning shears. Hand pruning shears will work best as larger tools like loppers will not be well suited to the precise cuts you need to make. Once you have a proper set of pruning tools, locate an unwanted leaf, then follow its stem all the way to the bottom of petiole. Removing dead stems will increase the light and ventilation of the plant and help it to grow. Cut the stem just above where it exits the soil to remove it entirely. If you wish to stop this plant from flowering, you can use the same pruning shears to remove any buds before they open. Finally, you may prefer to just trim off dead or damaged portions of the plant, including deadheading spent flowers, to keep it looking its best. This can be done at any time of year. Diseased or damaged stems should be cut right at the soil line and removed completely. Blooms should be cut off just below the flower head.
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What should I do after pruning my Silver inch plant?
Since pruning for the Silver inch plant should take place periodically throughout the season, what you do after pruning can vary. For instance, if you prune to remove selected leaves and stems from your Silver inch plant, you won’t need to do anything except continue your regular maintenance routine. At times, you may choose to remove healthier leaves and include them in a display of cut flowers and foliage. However, there is no crucial maintenance task to perform for this plant after typical pruning. The only thing to note is that when watering after pruning, you need to be careful not to touch the wound to prevent fungus from infecting the plant through the fresh wound. Placing Silver inch plant in a well-ventilated location will also help the wounds to dry out and heal in time. The timely replenishment of Silver inch plant after pruning will help the Silver inch plant to recover as soon as possible.
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Are there any important tips when pruning my Silver inch plant?
For your major pruning, use sharp pruning sheers that will make clean cuts to avoid damaging your plants. As you are pruning your Silver inch plant, step back occasionally to check the appearance of the plant to make sure it has the shape you want and that you are pruning it symmetrically. If the overall growth of the plant is weak, the flowers need to be pruned back in time for flowering to be able to save nutrients for leaf growth and allow the plant to grow more vigorously.
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
The silver inch plant is native to America and grows well at a temperature of 18 to 30 ℃. It doesn't like the cold and frost of winter, meaning that its overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10 ℃. Once the temperature drops below 4 ℃, the plant will enter a dormant state. At 0 ℃, the plant may be frozen to death directly. The silver inch plant prefers a humid environment and requires the relative humidity of the air in its growth environment to be between 60-75%. It is not resistant to drought or water-logging.
What is the optimal temperature for Silver inch plant?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Silver inch plant require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Silver inch plant doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Silver inch plant need different temperatures for different seasons?
Silver inch plant does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Silver inch plant healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Silver inch plant?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Silver inch plant is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Soil
The silver inch plant isn't fussy when it comes to soil, and the plant can grow normally in both sandy and loam soil. With certain saline-alkali tolerance, it can also grow in mild saline-alkali soil, although it does best in neutral or alkaline soil. The silver inch plant likes fertilizer; it won't grow well in poor soil, with slender plants that have no or few flowers. When it is cultured as a potted plant, perlite with good water permeability and drainage can be selected as its substrate, while sandy loam is also a good choice.
Propagation
Planting
Harvest
The silver inch plant can be propagated by offshoots and cuttings. Offshoot propagation is generally carried out before germination in early spring. Only vigorous and well-proportioned plants should be chosen as stock plants. Dig the plant out of the soil, remove the soil, brushing it off the roots with a brush, and then separate the root from the stock plant with a knife. Then, smear the wound with sulfur powder or plant ash, and dry it slightly before planting.
It is best to carry out cuttage propagation in the late spring or summer. Before cutting, substrates should be disinfected, and drugs should be applied to prevent the cuttings from harm by underground pests. The cutting should be selected from the main stem or a mature lateral branch. The base end needs to be cut flat from the stem node, and the top end from the leaf axils, and 2/3 of its leaves should also be cut off.
Cuttings need to be dipped in clear water for 1-2 hours to soak off the incision mucus, so as to facilitate faster rooting. The cutting depth should be 1/3 of the length of the cutting, and sufficient watering will be necessary after cutting. Keep the substrate moist, and the cutting will root in 10 to 15 days. After rooting, the water content should be gradually kept in control, and a thin liquid fertilizer should be continuously sprayed to promote a stronger and thicker root system.
Propagation
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Seasonal Care Tips
Seasonal Precautions
Spring: Keep the plant sufficiently watered and apply a thin fertilizer frequently during its growth period. Summer: Ensure that 70% of the planting area is shaded, and pay attention to ventilation and spray cooling. Autumn: Keep basin soil moist and ensure that the plant is receiving bright, scattered light; don't forget that it is suitable for cuttage in autumn. Winter: Provide the plant with more sunlight, but control watering and stop fertilizing; a safe overwintering temperature is above 10 ℃.
Summer
Fall
Winter
To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.
1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.
While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.
1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.
Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.
1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Silver inch plant based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.
Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
- Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
- Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
- Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
- Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
- Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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More About Silver Inch Plant
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
30 to 61 cm
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Purple
Pink
White
Leaf Color
Green
Purple
Silver
Gray
Flower Size
6 mm
Plant Height
15 to 22 cm
Usages
Garden Use
Silver inch plant is valued by gardeners for the visual interest of its striped foliage, as well as its speed of growth. It is often displayed in hanging pots, as it produces long, trailing, attractive stems. This quick-growing plant can provide excellent groundcover, though vigilance is required to prevent it from becoming invasive. Good companion plants include Calathea, Orchid, and Bird's nest fern.
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Common Problems
Why are the leaves of my silver inch plant yellowing?
It is very common for the silver inch plant to have yellow leaves when it is cultivated indoors. Possible reasons and solutions:
Sudden environmental changes: If the silver inch plant didn't take long to grow yellow leaves after the plant was brought home, this is usually because the plant has not adapted to its new environment. Solution: Just follow its maintenance method to provide the most suitable growth environment for the plant. After careful caring for some time, the leaves of the silver inch plant will turn green again.
The light is too strong: The silver inch plant prefers a semi-shaded environment. It should be placed in a location with sufficient astigmatism during indoor maintenance, and sheltered from the sunshine during the summer. Otherwise, if exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves of the plant will become dim, short, yellow and withered. Solution: Move the plant to a cool and ventilated place, and then gradually acclimate it to a location with astigmatism once it has recovered.
Water and fertilizer are insufficient: The silver inch plant likes a humid environment. If it is not watered enough, or not watered thoroughly for a long time, the plants will turn yellow due to a lack of water. In addition, its growth depends on sufficient nutrients; if not enough fertilizer is provided, the plant will lack nutrients and its leaves will turn yellow. Solution: Consistently replenish water, and spray around the potted plant with a water sprayer to increase air humidity. Timely supplement of fertilizer is also important; the amount should be controlled, of course, with an organic fertilizer applied just once or twice a month.
Root rot: While water and fertilizer are important, do not overdo them, otherwise the silver inch plant will soon develop root rot. If there is a problem with the plant's roots, it won't be able to absorb nutrients efficiently, leading to its leaves naturally turning yellow. Solution: Cut off the rotten roots in time, disinfect them, and then replant them with new soil.
Diseases and pests: Although not susceptible to many diseases and pests, the silver inch plant occasionally suffers from scale insects and leaf blight, which may cause the yellowing of plant leaves. Solution: Firstly, determine what kind of disease or pest is causing the damage, and then carry out prevention measures with pesticide spraying. For details, please refer to the section on prevention and control of the diseases and pests that commonly harm the silver inch plant.
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In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
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The garden phlox is a flowering plant that is native to the United States. The name, phlox, comes from the Latin for "flame," reflecting its bright colors. Garden phlox flowers can become important food sources for insects and hummingbirds.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
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Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea) is a perennial evergreen trailing plant, often found in grasslands and woodlands. Saxon peoples once spread the plant, but it has become invasive in some parts of the world now. The fast-growing ground ivy can be toxic to horses but generally cannot harm other animals or humans.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
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Albizia julibrissin, colloquially known as persian silk tree, is a deciduous plant with characteristic pink, fuzzy inflorescences. Persian silk tree is mainly cultivated for decorative purposes. Its flowers have a mild, sweet smell and are often visited by butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Bloom Time
Mid spring
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About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
More Info
FAQ
How to care Silver Inch Plant
The silver inch plant is a popular trailing plant known for its attractive foliage with zebra-like stripes of green, silver, and purple. Wandering jew is very easy to care for and can be hung or placed indoors. The plant grows fast; the creeping stems bear roots along the way, making it suitable as ground cover.
Symbolism
Simplicity, purity, elegance
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Full shade
Basic Care Guide
Water
The silver inch plant likes humidity but is afraid of water-logging. Sufficient water should be given to the plant in its growth period, otherwise the plant will stop growing, or even die, if planted in a too-dry area. At the end of fall, sufficient water should be poured for thorough freezing-up of the soil. At the beginning of spring, water should be well poured for thawing of the soil. It is required that the soil be slightly wet; too much moisture will cause root rot. Generally, watering should be carried out at least once a month.
Less water is needed in the winter. Spray the leaves with water frequently if your plant is experiencing dry weather with high temperatures. After a heavy rain, any logged water should be drained in time to prevent root rot caused by excessive soaking.
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Fertilizer
The silver inch plant does not require much fertilizer, but sufficient nutrients will contribute to more beautiful flowers. Before planting, sufficient base fertilizer should be applied, while an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied every 2 weeks during the growth period. Timely watering after fertilization can prevent the root system from being damaged.
From a seasonal point of view, fertilizer is applied once a fortnight in the spring and fall, but applied according to its growth in the summer and winter. Generally, a nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in the spring, and a compound fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium should be applied once in early summer. If the cultivation area is barren, or the plant's growth is weak, the frequency of fertilization can be increased.
At the end of fall, in combination with watering for the freezing-up of soil, an organic or compound fertilizer should be applied once more into the shallow layer of soil. Pay attention to the balance of nutrition when fertilizing; excessive application of a nitrogen fertilizer will make plants more prone to lodging and vulnerable to diseases.
Sunlight
The silver inch plant loves light. Insufficient light will lead to overgrowth and yellow leaves, but intense light will burn plants. If it is over-shaded, the silver inch plant will also grow poorly, with slender leaves and small flowers, making it better to cultivate the plant in a semi-shaded place. If it is cared for indoors, place your plant in a bright location and move it to an outdoor, semi-shaded spot for a period of time every one or two months. this method is conducive to the plant's accumulation of nutrients and growth.
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Pruning
In order to keep its graceful plant shape and prolong its flowering period in the fall, it is necessary to consistently remove dense and diseased leaves. Old stems should be trimmed, and you should also maintain ventilation and light transmission, which will promote the growth of new tillers. After flowering, the residual flower stems, as well as any dead branches and leaves, should be cut off to promote the development of new flower stems.
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Advanced Care Guide
Temperature
The silver inch plant is native to America and grows well at a temperature of 18 to 30 ℃. It doesn't like the cold and frost of winter, meaning that its overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10 ℃. Once the temperature drops below 4 ℃, the plant will enter a dormant state. At 0 ℃, the plant may be frozen to death directly. The silver inch plant prefers a humid environment and requires the relative humidity of the air in its growth environment to be between 60-75%. It is not resistant to drought or water-logging.
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Soil
The silver inch plant isn't fussy when it comes to soil, and the plant can grow normally in both sandy and loam soil. With certain saline-alkali tolerance, it can also grow in mild saline-alkali soil, although it does best in neutral or alkaline soil. The silver inch plant likes fertilizer; it won't grow well in poor soil, with slender plants that have no or few flowers. When it is cultured as a potted plant, perlite with good water permeability and drainage can be selected as its substrate, while sandy loam is also a good choice.
Propagation
Planting
Harvest
The silver inch plant can be propagated by offshoots and cuttings. Offshoot propagation is generally carried out before germination in early spring. Only vigorous and well-proportioned plants should be chosen as stock plants. Dig the plant out of the soil, remove the soil, brushing it off the roots with a brush, and then separate the root from the stock plant with a knife. Then, smear the wound with sulfur powder or plant ash, and dry it slightly before planting.
It is best to carry out cuttage propagation in the late spring or summer. Before cutting, substrates should be disinfected, and drugs should be applied to prevent the cuttings from harm by underground pests. The cutting should be selected from the main stem or a mature lateral branch. The base end needs to be cut flat from the stem node, and the top end from the leaf axils, and 2/3 of its leaves should also be cut off.
Cuttings need to be dipped in clear water for 1-2 hours to soak off the incision mucus, so as to facilitate faster rooting. The cutting depth should be 1/3 of the length of the cutting, and sufficient watering will be necessary after cutting. Keep the substrate moist, and the cutting will root in 10 to 15 days. After rooting, the water content should be gradually kept in control, and a thin liquid fertilizer should be continuously sprayed to promote a stronger and thicker root system.
Propagation
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Seasonal Care Tips
Seasonal Precautions
Spring: Keep the plant sufficiently watered and apply a thin fertilizer frequently during its growth period. Summer: Ensure that 70% of the planting area is shaded, and pay attention to ventilation and spray cooling. Autumn: Keep basin soil moist and ensure that the plant is receiving bright, scattered light; don't forget that it is suitable for cuttage in autumn. Winter: Provide the plant with more sunlight, but control watering and stop fertilizing; a safe overwintering temperature is above 10 ℃.
Summer
Fall
Winter
To encourage flowering or fruiting, the plant requires some care.
1
Ensure the plant is receiving plenty of sunlight.
2
Keep an eye out for diseases and pests in the summer.
3
Watering frequency may also need increasing, depending on the amount of weekly rainfall.
4
Continue fertilizing once or twice a month to support flowering or fruiting.
5
Container plants receiving more than six or so hours of sunlight a day may require relocating to a partially shady location.
6
New plants can be propagated from root or stem shoots. Carefully remove the cutting, coat in a rotting hormone powder, and plant in a container.
While your plant is growing in the fall, continue the monthly fertilization and make sure the plant receives the water and misting it needs to thrive.
1
Keep the soil moist, watering whenever the soil becomes dry, and fertilize the plant monthly with a diluted, liquid, all-purpose fertilizer.
2
Make sure your plant continues to take in bright sunlight through this season, which will help promote growth throughout the season.
3
To propagate the plant, you can take cuttings at this time and repot them.
4
Continue to watch out for pests and diseases, such as scales and mealybugs.
Continue to care for your plant during winter, even though it won’t need as much attention as during the months of active growth.
1
Keep this plant indoors in freezing winter climates to best protect it and allow it to regrow during the spring.
2
During the winter, your plant isn't greedy for water, but does require bright light. You can reduce watering to a minimum during this time.
3
Keep the plant in bright sunlight even during the winter. Avoid feeding the plant during this restful season. Other than giving it some cold protection and sunlight, you can almost leave the plant to itself.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Silver inch plant based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Solutions: If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following: Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier. Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out. If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following: Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Leaf tips withering
Low air humidity can cause the edges of the leaves to dry out.
Symptom Analysis
The tips and the edges of the plants’ leaves are dried out and brown. They may be crunchy when touched. This is caused by low humidity and/or a lack of water.
Solutions
If your plant has only a few dried tips, complete the following:
- Increase humidity. Increase the humidity around your plant by misting it with a spray bottle daily. Alternatively, you can use a humidifier.
- Water plant. If your soil is dry, water until the soil is moist but not damp. Water again when soil dries out.
If a large portion of the leaves is suffering from dry tips, complete the following:
- Prune away affected tissue. Using sharp and clean pruning shears, remove the dried out tips using clean cuts to avoid harming healthy tissue. Plant tissue will heal on its own, but you can apply a pruning seal for extra protection.
Prevention
Many houseplants come from moist tropical areas with high humidity.
To prevent dry and brown tips, you should complete the following:
- Water regularly. Water when soil is dry.
- Keep humidity high. Keep moisture high by regularly misting the air or using a humidifier.
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
- At first, flowers may look a little limp.
- Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
- Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
- Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
- Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
- Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
- Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
- Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
- Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
- Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
- One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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More About Silver Inch Plant
Plant Type
Vine, Herb
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Spread
30 to 61 cm
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer
Flower Color
Purple
Pink
White
Leaf Color
Green
Purple
Silver
Gray
Flower Size
6 mm
Plant Height
15 to 22 cm
Usages
Garden Use
Silver inch plant is valued by gardeners for the visual interest of its striped foliage, as well as its speed of growth. It is often displayed in hanging pots, as it produces long, trailing, attractive stems. This quick-growing plant can provide excellent groundcover, though vigilance is required to prevent it from becoming invasive. Good companion plants include Calathea, Orchid, and Bird's nest fern.
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Common Problems
Why are the leaves of my silver inch plant yellowing?
It is very common for the silver inch plant to have yellow leaves when it is cultivated indoors. Possible reasons and solutions:
Sudden environmental changes: If the silver inch plant didn't take long to grow yellow leaves after the plant was brought home, this is usually because the plant has not adapted to its new environment. Solution: Just follow its maintenance method to provide the most suitable growth environment for the plant. After careful caring for some time, the leaves of the silver inch plant will turn green again.
The light is too strong: The silver inch plant prefers a semi-shaded environment. It should be placed in a location with sufficient astigmatism during indoor maintenance, and sheltered from the sunshine during the summer. Otherwise, if exposed to direct sunlight, the leaves of the plant will become dim, short, yellow and withered. Solution: Move the plant to a cool and ventilated place, and then gradually acclimate it to a location with astigmatism once it has recovered.
Water and fertilizer are insufficient: The silver inch plant likes a humid environment. If it is not watered enough, or not watered thoroughly for a long time, the plants will turn yellow due to a lack of water. In addition, its growth depends on sufficient nutrients; if not enough fertilizer is provided, the plant will lack nutrients and its leaves will turn yellow. Solution: Consistently replenish water, and spray around the potted plant with a water sprayer to increase air humidity. Timely supplement of fertilizer is also important; the amount should be controlled, of course, with an organic fertilizer applied just once or twice a month.
Root rot: While water and fertilizer are important, do not overdo them, otherwise the silver inch plant will soon develop root rot. If there is a problem with the plant's roots, it won't be able to absorb nutrients efficiently, leading to its leaves naturally turning yellow. Solution: Cut off the rotten roots in time, disinfect them, and then replant them with new soil.
Diseases and pests: Although not susceptible to many diseases and pests, the silver inch plant occasionally suffers from scale insects and leaf blight, which may cause the yellowing of plant leaves. Solution: Firstly, determine what kind of disease or pest is causing the damage, and then carry out prevention measures with pesticide spraying. For details, please refer to the section on prevention and control of the diseases and pests that commonly harm the silver inch plant.
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