Use App
Home City Plants Application
English
English
繁體中文
日本語
Español
Français
Deutsch
Pусский
Português
Italiano
한국어
Nederlands
العربية
Svenska
Polskie
ภาษาไทย
Bahasa Melayu
Bahasa Indonesia
This page looks better in the app
care_about care_about
About
care_basic_guide care_basic_guide
Basic Care
care_advanced_guide care_advanced_guide
Advanced Care
care_seasonal_tips care_seasonal_tips
Seasonal Tips
care_pet_and_diseases care_pet_and_diseases
Pests & Diseases
care_toxicity care_toxicity
Toxicity
care_more_info care_more_info
More Info
care_faq care_faq
FAQ
care_new_plant care_new_plant
New Plant Care

How to Care for Garden Tulip

Garden tulip (Tulipa gesneriana) is an ornamental bulbous plant native to southwest Asia. Ottomans brought it to Europe in the 16th century, and it almost instantly became popular, especially amongst Dutchmen. Garden tulip’s showy flowers are usually red or orange, but there are also varieties with purple, pink or yellow flowers.
symbolism

Symbolism

Love, charity, fame, beauty, blessing, eternity, eternal blessings
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Garden tulip
video play
Garden tulip
Garden tulip
Garden tulip
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Tulips have a low water requirement. Whether they are planted in a flower pot or a garden, watering them once after planting is usually sufficient. During the flowering period, potted tulips require occasional watering to maintain soil moisture and prevent it from drying out. Once the flowering period has finished, continue to maintain soil moisture until the leaves wither.
It is easier for the soil in a small pot to dry out, so a higher frequency of watering is required, but accumulation of water should be avoided. Rainwater will be sufficient for tulips planted in the garden unless the weather is extremely dry, when additional watering may be necessary.

Water

water Garden tulip
Once you have planted your Garden tulip , water them well once and then leave them. That initial watering will kick start their growth, but after that you can leave them be until you see shoots appear.
If your Garden tulip is in a pot, you will need to water them when the top 1-2inch feels dry. Container plants can dry out faster than bedded plants, so ensure that the soil is damp.
When your Garden tulip is growing, you will need to water about once a week. As the temperature rises, the soil will dry out faster and you will need to increase the frequency of watering. A dry soil environment will be more friendly to your Garden tulip than an excessively wet soil environment.
Garden tulip will become dormant during summer and the above-ground parts will completely dry up and die after dormancy. If you planted it in pots, you should stop watering your Garden tulip completely after the dormant part dries out. After the above-ground part dries out completely, dig up the buds and store them in a cool location or stop watering them completely to keep the soil dry. Resume watering until the next sowing season. Or keep them in the soil in a cool location until the next growing season. if you planted it outdoors, you shouldn't need to water it. Moreover, if there's plenty of rain in your region, you should consider digging them out to protect the buds from rot due to too much water.
Overwatering Garden tulip
Over-watered Garden tulip will develop yellow leaves. It is normal for yellow leaves to develop when Garden tulip has reached the end of their blooming period. However, if the leaves turn yellow before the flowers have bloomed, it is a sign of over watering.
If you water your Garden tulip too much, then try to ensure there is adequate drainage and do not give it any more water for a couple of days. You can mix some sawdust into the soil to absorb the moisture. If the situation continues to deteriorate after controlled watering, consider whether the seedpods have rotted. Try digging them up and checking whether they have changed color and become soft. Once you find severe decay, then you should promptly clean out these seedpods.
Your Garden tulip is more susceptible to rot indoors in low light and poor ventilation. Therefore, you need to be careful when watering indoors and make sure that a lot of the soil is dry before watering. If you can keep it moist for a long time indoors, you also need to consider if your Garden tulip is in an unsuitable location. Whereas outdoors, good ventilation and plenty of light will be relatively safe.
Underwatering Garden tulip
Under-watered Garden tulip actually looks similar to over-watered Garden tulip with their yellow leaves. However, the stems will also droop and leaves will look smaller and will curl. You may also see some brown patches appear.
If you have given your Garden tulip too little water, then do not panic. It has a level of drought tolerance. Once you have realised, give it a good drink but do not saturate the surrounding soil. Just make sure it is moist.But do not give them too much and overwater them, you just need to let the soil to be mosit. Extended periods in water can lead to root rot and fungus growing on the bulb. The fungus can cause serious damage to the bulb which is noticed through spots that appear on the leaves and buds. The tips of the leaves may also discolor and die.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:WaterDetail
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What should I do if I water Garden tulip too much/too little?
Over-watered Garden tulip will develop yellow leaves. It is normal for yellow leaves to develop when Garden tulip has reached the end of their blooming period. However, if the leaves turn yellow before the flowers have bloomed, it is a sign of over watering.
If you water your Garden tulip too much, then try to ensure there is adequate drainage and do not give it any more water for a couple of days. You can mix some sawdust into the soil to absorb the moisture. If the situation continues to deteriorate after controlled watering, consider whether the seedpods have rotted. Try digging them up and checking whether they have changed color and become soft. Once you find severe decay, then you should promptly clean out these seedpods.
Under-watered Garden tulip actually looks similar to over-watered Garden tulip with their yellow leaves. However, the stems will also droop and leaves will look smaller and will curl. You may also see some brown patches appear.
If you have given your Garden tulip too little water, then do not panic. It has a level of drought tolerance. Once you have realised, give it a good drink but do not saturate the surrounding soil. Just make sure it is moist.But do not give them too much and overwater them, you just need to let the soil to be mosit. Extended periods in water can lead to root rot and fungus growing on the bulb. The fungus can cause serious damage to the bulb which is noticed through spots that appear on the leaves and buds. The tips of the leaves may also discolor and die.
Read More more
How often should I water my Garden tulip?
It very much depends on the location and the current growth state of your Garden tulip.
Once you have planted your Garden tulip, water them well once and then leave them. That initial watering will kick start their growth, but after that you can leave them be until you see shoots appear.
If your Garden tulip is in a pot, you will need to water them when the top 1-2inch feels dry. Container plants can dry out faster than bedded plants, so ensure that the soil is damp.
If your Garden tulip is planted outside in flower beds and borders, they will not require additional water if it has rained during the week.
The Garden tulip has some drought resistance, slight dryness can be recovered quickly after watering, but excessive watering can directly cause the plant to die once the seed ball rots, you need to stay cautious about how often you water the plant.
Read More more
Should I adjust the watering frequency according to different seasons or climate for my Garden tulip?
When your Garden tulip is growing, you will need to water about once a week. As the temperature rises, the soil will dry out faster and you will need to increase the frequency of watering. A dry soil environment will be more friendly to your Garden tulip than an excessively wet soil environment.
Garden tulip will become dormant during summer and the above-ground parts will completely dry up and die after dormancy,. if you planted it outdoors, you shouldn't need to water it. Moreover, if there's plenty of rain in your region, you should consider digging them out to protect the buds from rot due to too much water.
If you planted it in pots, you should stop watering your Garden tulip completely after the dormant part dries out. After the above-ground part dries out completely, dig up the buds and store them in a cool location or stop watering them completely to keep the soil dry. Resume watering until the next sowing season. Or keep them in the soil in a cool location until the next growing season.
Read More more
What should I look for when planting my Garden tulip indoors or outdoors?
Monitor your containers for moisture, moving them to a sheltered position if they become sodden or waterlogged. Allow them to dry out and return them when the weather improves. Outdoor planting often takes rainwater into account, and when planting, you should consider planting the plants in well-drained soil to avoid waterlogging and decay.
Whether grown indoors or outdoors,before the buds grow out after planting the bulbs, they need very little water and you should try to let the soil dry out completely before watering in small amounts, which will effectively avoid bulb rot. You should wait to water them regularly until they grow new shoots.
Your Garden tulip is more susceptible to rot indoors in low light and poor ventilation. Therefore, you need to be careful when watering indoors and make sure that a lot of the soil is dry before watering. If you can keep it moist for a long time indoors, you also need to consider if your Garden tulip is in an unsuitable location. Whereas outdoors, good ventilation and plenty of light will be relatively safe.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Tulips are often used as one-time bulbs, which are then discarded after blooming or the bulbs are dug up in the summer and stored, so there is no need for fertilizer to be added. If the soil is in poor condition, mix some balanced fertilizer or bone meal into the soil when planting the bulbs.

Fertilizer

Although their beauty can be somewhat short-lived, the Garden tulip is very capable of enriching the appearance of your garden during the short time when it is in bloom. These plants typically bloom in spring or late winter and can be a very welcome form of color during that time of year.
In order to enjoy the beauty of a Garden tulip, then you need to know how to care for it. That maintenance routine should include a certain method of fertilization that will help your Garden tulip thrive. The sections below will introduce you to everything you need to know.
You need to fertilize a Garden tulip for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Garden tulip produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Garden tulip has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Garden tulip plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Garden tulip some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Garden tulip hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
There are a few times during which it is a good idea to fertilize a Garden tulip. The main time to fertilize is in early spring when the flowers are forming, at which time, the right fertilizer will encourage better blooms. You can also fertilize your Garden tulip later in the spring after the flowers have faded. Feeding at this time will give your Garden tulip plenty of energy that it can store and use next year. If you are planting your Garden tulip for the first time in the fall you can also provide some fertilizer at that time as well. Fertilizing during the planting process gives your Garden tulip the best chance of producing a healthy set of flowers during its first growing season.
Several different types of fertilizer can be beneficial to Garden tulip. To keep matters simple, you can always rely on a balanced fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizer ratios that are equal, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5, will work well. It is also often best to use a granular fertilizer rather than a liquid one. If you are interested in being a bit more specific with your fertilizer choices, you should consider using a fertilizer that is rich overall with the three main nutrients but a bit higher in phosphorus content. Many gardeners stand by the claim that phosphorus will encourage better flowers that last longer. Organic materials, including bonemeal, can help add the phosphorus that may benefit your Garden tulip and its blooming abilities.
The first time that you should fertilize your Garden tulip is during the planting process, which takes place in the fall. After digging a small hole to plant your bulb, you can add some granular slow-release fertilizer to the hole. During the process, you should water continually to maintain consistent soil moisture. Following planting, you can fertilize once again during the early spring as the plant is emerging from the ground and developing its flowers. Again, you should use a granular fertilizer that has a balanced mix of nutrients and sprinkle it on the ground. As you apply the fertilizer, you should be sure to water the soil gently at the same time.
While fertilizer can be incredibly helpful to a Garden tulip, it can also be equally harmful if you give too much. Overfertilization will not only damage a Garden tulip, but it may lead to death in some cases. The best way to avoid this is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer package you buy rather than exceeding the recommended dose in hopes of making a more vigorous plant.
Likewise, it is typically less likely that you'll overfertilize your Garden tulip if you use a slow-release granular fertilizer. Since these fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, as the name implies, they are less capable of giving your Garden tulip too much fertilizer at once.
The correct times to fertilize a Garden tulip are during the fall planting process, during the early spring bloom period, and during the late spring following the bloom period. Fertilizing during any other part of the year is not necessary and may be harmful to your plant.
When caring for a Garden tulip, you should know that it has a considerable dormant phase in which it will not need fertilizer and will need far less water as well. As you would guess, your Garden tulip will be dormant during winter. However, this plant also enters a dormant phase during the summer. After the flowers fade, the leaves will persist briefly before dying back to the ground. Once the leaves die back, your plant has returned to a dormant phase, and it will not need fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Garden tulip?
You need to fertilize a Garden tulip for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Garden tulip produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Garden tulip has excellent flowers during that season.
Fertilizer also gives your Garden tulip plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Garden tulip some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Garden tulip hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Garden tulip?
There are a few times during which it is a good idea to fertilize a Garden tulip. The main time to fertilize is in early spring when the flowers are forming, at which time, the right fertilizer will encourage better blooms. You can also fertilize your Garden tulip later in the spring after the flowers have faded. Feeding at this time will give your Garden tulip plenty of energy that it can store and use next year.
If you are planting your Garden tulip for the first time in the fall you can also provide some fertilizer at that time as well. Fertilizing during the planting process gives your Garden tulip the best chance of producing a healthy set of flowers during its first growing season.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Garden tulip?
The correct times to fertilize a Garden tulip are during the fall planting process, during the early spring bloom period, and during the late spring following the bloom period. Fertilizing during any other part of the year is not necessary and may be harmful to your plant.
When caring for a Garden tulip, you should know that it has a considerable dormant phase in which it will not need fertilizer and will need far less water as well. As you would guess, your Garden tulip will be dormant during winter. However, this plant also enters a dormant phase during the summer. After the flowers fade, the leaves will persist briefly before dying back to the ground. Once the leaves die back, your plant has returned to a dormant phase, and it will not need fertilizer.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Garden tulip need?
Several different types of fertilizer can be beneficial to Garden tulip. To keep matters simple, you can always rely on a balanced fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizer ratios that are equal, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5, will work well. It is also often best to use a granular fertilizer rather than a liquid one.
If you are interested in being a bit more specific with your fertilizer choices, you should consider using a fertilizer that is rich overall with the three main nutrients but a bit higher in phosphorus content. Many gardeners stand by the claim that phosphorus will encourage better flowers that last longer. Organic materials, including bonemeal, can help add the phosphorus that may benefit your Garden tulip and its blooming abilities.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Garden tulip?
The first time that you should fertilize your Garden tulip is during the planting process, which takes place in the fall. After digging a small hole to plant your bulb, you can add some granular slow-release fertilizer to the hole. During the process, you should water continually to maintain consistent soil moisture.
Following planting, you can fertilize once again during the early spring as the plant is emerging from the ground and developing its flowers. Again, you should use a granular fertilizer that has a balanced mix of nutrients and sprinkle it on the ground. As you apply the fertilizer, you should be sure to water the soil gently at the same time.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Garden tulip too much?
While fertilizer can be incredibly helpful to a Garden tulip, it can also be equally harmful if you give too much. Overfertilization will not only damage a Garden tulip, but it may lead to death in some cases. The best way to avoid this is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer package you buy rather than exceeding the recommended dose in hopes of making a more vigorous plant.
Likewise, it is typically less likely that you'll overfertilize your Garden tulip if you use a slow-release granular fertilizer. Since these fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, as the name implies, they are less capable of giving your Garden tulip too much fertilizer at once.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Tulips prefer a location that has good sun exposure. Whether they are planted in a pot or in the garden, tulips require at least 7 hours of sun exposure every day to get beautiful blooms. Tulips do not require any shade.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
What type of sunlight does Garden tulip need?
Garden tulip needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.
Read More more
Can sunlight damage Garden tulip? How to protect Garden tulip from the sun and heat damage?
The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.
Read More more
Should I protect Garden tulip from sun exposure?
While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.
Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.
Read More more
What will happen if Garden tulip gets inadequate sunlight?
If you're growing Garden tulip and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.
Read More more
Does Garden tulip need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?
Garden tulip is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Garden tulip is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.
Read More more
How much light does Garden tulip need for photosynthesis?
Garden tulip will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.
Read More more
How much light should Garden tulip get per day to grow healthily?
If you want your Garden tulip to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.
Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Pruning withered flowers promptly can avoid excessive consumption of nutrients and energy during the fruit-bearing phase, thus preserving nutrients in the bulb, prolonging the blooming period of any other flowers, and enhancing the vitality of the plants.
If you want to collect seeds from tulips, wait for the pods to dry out and crack after the flowers have withered. Cut the scape at the base level after collecting the seeds. Generally speaking, it is recommended that each tulip bulb be planted only once per lifetime. Following the flowering period, the bulb can be dug out and discarded along with withered leaves.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
How can I prune my Garden tulip?
Pruning your Garden tulip is a fairly simple process. First, you will need a reliable set of hand pruners or hedge trimmers. You may use a clean pair of sharp scissors if you don’t have pruners or garden shears on hand. It’s important to always clean your gardening tools before and after using them to prevent the possibility of spreading disease or infection to other plants. To prune your Garden tulip simply allow your plant to go dormant over the Winter. Some time between late winter and early spring – or when new growth starts to appear – take your clean pruners or trimmers and cut away any dying, damaged, yellow or declining foliage. Repeat this process until you reach the base of the plant or until there are no dead pieces left to cut. When pruning, be careful not to damage the new growth that may be emerging near the base of your plant. These parts cannot be restored and pruning can increase the ventilation of the plants and facilitate their growth. Any pruning that is done to this plant should be cut straight across the blades or stems. No angled cuts are required. Diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Garden tulip is growing.
Read More more
What should I do after pruning my Garden tulip?
Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Garden tulip a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. Do not water the Garden tulip immediately after pruning as this can lead to fungal infestation of the plants through the wounds. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new growth.
Read More more
How can I prune my Garden tulip during different seasons?
Early spring and late winter are the best times to prune your Garden tulip on a large scale. If you want to control the size of your Garden tulip, you can prune them as you wish, but be careful not to prune more than a third of the size of the plant. Yellow and diseased leaves may appear during the summer months when the Garden tulip is growing vigorously and these types of leaves need to be pruned back immediately. These parts of the Garden tulip cannot be restored and pruning increases the ventilation of the plant and facilitates its growth.
Read More more
When should I prune my Garden tulip through different stages of growth?
Strategic pruning is usually done at different times of the year or during certain stages of growth depending on the plant. However, knowing when to prune your Garden tulip depends on where you live and how established your plant is. For example, if your Garden tulip is a new resident, it’s a good idea to wait until the plant starts to grow back before you start pruning. On the other hand, if your plant is already established, you will want to prune the dry or dead parts in plant before new leafy growth appears in early spring or late winter. This is the time of year when plants are dormant and pruning causes the least damage to them. This is also the best time of year to do more extensive pruning. It’s important to note that if Garden tulip is pruned too late in the season, it can leave new growth at risk for damage or disease. However, if your Garden tulip is indoors this is not a problem and you can prune at any time. Since this can affect the long-term health and appearance of your plant, it’s important to keep this in mind when deciding when and how to prune. As your Garden tulip grows larger over time, you can trim it as needed after annual pruning. Dead, damaged, or diseased leaf blade foliage can be removed as it appears. This could be done anytime when your Garden tulip is growing.
Read More more
left right
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Most tulip hybrids are cold-resistant. When the air temperature drops below 5 ℃ for 3 to 4 weeks, it actually promotes flower bud differentiation and improves the flowering rate of tulip bulbs. Also, tulips don’t need much water, so they should be watered just once when you plant them. In general, the accumulation of water should be avoided because it can cause tulip bulbs to rot. When storing tulip bulbs, make sure that the surrounding air is as dry as possible to prevent them from rotting.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Garden tulip?
The best temperature for Garden tulip depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Garden tulip has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Garden tulip may be able to survive with some help.
During the warmer parts of the year, Garden tulip will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Garden tulip. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Garden tulip to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!
Read More more
Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Garden tulip
If this is the first year of your Garden tulip outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Garden tulip, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Garden tulip inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.
It’s also a good idea to plant Garden tulip in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Garden tulip should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.
Read More more
How can I protect Garden tulip from extreme temperatures?
If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Garden tulip from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Garden tulip in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Garden tulip is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.
For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Garden tulip to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.
Read More more
Dormant season temperature recommendations for Garden tulip
During the cold winter months, Garden tulip needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Garden tulip, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.
An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Garden tulip. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Garden tulip will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.
Read More more
left right
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Tulips prefer rich, well-drained, alkaline soil. They will also grow well in poor, sandy soil but not in clay soil, which can affect the growth of tulip bulbs. Adding coarse sand and humus to clay soil will increase its permeability to air and allow water to drain well, providing optimal growth conditions for garden tulip. As for acidic soil, adding lime can increase the pH of the soil - this is better for tulips because they are adapted to grow in soils with a pH of 6 to 7.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Small bulbs often form around tulip bulbs and these can also be collected for planting. At the end of winter or in early spring, take out the tulip bulbs you have stored and peel any small bulbs off the plants. plant them in a pot that has been prepared with soil. Make sure the spacing between each bulb is three times the diameter of the small bulbs.
Then, cover the bulbs with soil, 3 cm thick. Finally, place the flower pot in a shady place, and keep the soil moist. After one year, multiple bulbs can be planted together in the same flower pot with some fertilizer mixed in with the soil. After about 2 to 3 years, they will have grown to a size suitable for flowering.

Propagation

This plant propagates in a special way, and if you want to propagate this plant quickly, using tubers is a good way. For the best results, propagate your Garden tulip when it's dormant. You can also propagate plants in the early spring or during the autumn months. Since it won't need much water during these periods, it will be easier for the plant to adjust. If you propagate during the growing season, trim away about two-thirds of the leaves to reduce water needs. To safely divide and propagate your tubers, you only need a couple of tools. Make sure you have these on hand and then get started!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife or garden trowel.
  2. Space in your soil or growing medium.
  3. (possibly) sharp, sanitized scissors or shears.
Steps: Step 1: Uncover the underground root stem or tuber. Step 2: Use your tool to divide the root or tuber into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye or bud. If the tubers are relatively small, they cannot be cut to prevent the tubers from being too small for nutrition. Step 3:Plant the divided tubers into the soil. Mix organic fertilizer into the soil if its possible. Place one or two tubers in each hole, preferably at a depth of 7-15 cm. Step 4:After planting, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. This will help the tubers to germinate in time. Step 5: If necessary, cut back most of the foliage of non-dormant plants to allow stronger root growth.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
Cultivation:PropagationDetail
The best season to plant tulips is from late fall to early winter, when the temperature at night falls below 10 ℃. If the temperature is too high, the roots will grow poorly and your tulips will become unhealthy. If you are planting tulips in the garden, they are best placed in a spot with great sun exposure and good ventilation.
Before planting tulips, first remove all weeds from the area. Then, dig a large hole and place the tulip bulb in it. The planting depth and spacing of tulip bulbs should be at least two times the diameter of the bulbs. If the bulbs are being planted in clay soil, the recommended planting depth is 5 to 10 cm. In loose soil, the recommended planting depth is 15 cm. After placing the tulip bulb in the hole, gently cover it over with soil. Finally, compact the soil using a board or a spade.
You can place a net beneath the bulb, so that it can be easily collected once the tulip has flowered and the plant withers. You can also plant a bulb directly in a special bulb basket and bury the basket in the soil. It is not recommended to plant tulips neatly in a regular shape or with equal distances between bulbs, as this can make them look less natural.
Tulips can also be planted in flower pots, buckets, stone troughs, or other decorative containers, but there must be drainage holes at the bottom of the container. For large containers, it is best to have a layer of coarse stones or brick pieces, 3 cm thick, at the bottom for good drainage. The planting depth in containers should follow the guidelines mentioned above, with a layer of soil at least 2.5 cm thick beneath each bulb, although they can be spaced slightly closer together. The surface should be covered with a layer of gravel to help keep the moisture in and make the containers look attractive.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
When tulips are planted in the soil, each bloom can last for 1 to 2 weeks. After cutting, the vase life of a flower lasts for between 7 and 15 days.It is recommended that tulips should be harvested when the bracts are enlarged and the outer perianths have just softened, but not fully developed. When harvesting the flowers, use sharp garden scissors to cut the base at the level of the scape, and promptly place the flowers in a vase filled with clean water to avoid water loss.
Tulips have parallel veins, as is the case with most monocots. It is better to cut their leaves with a sharp knife in one movement. The vascular bundles of the stems and the leaves are connected, so the superficial layers of the herbaceous stems will be injured if the leaves are torn off by hand.
Tulips are phototatic, so the light they receive should be evenly distributed; this will avoid causing their stems to bend. If the stems do bend, you can adjust the orientation of the vase, for example by 45° each day, so the flowers slowly turn back to their original direction of growth.
Tulips rarely bloom well in their second year, so they are usually replaced with new bulbs. Bulbs can also be harvested at the end of the flowering period, in the summer, and then replanted in the fall. Once the parts of the plants have turned yellow and withered, the bulbs should be dug up and any remaining soil and leaves on them should be removed. Discard any bad bulbs and dry the healthy ones. The bulbs should be stored in paper bags and placed in a cool and dry place. They can then be planted again in the fall.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

Spring blooming bulbs like this plant are easy to care for, even during the growing season. The bulb provides the necessary nutrients that may be lacking in the soil.

more
1
However, an application of bone meal can help support healthy growth.
more
2
Water the plants regularly, whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
more
3
Increase the amount of light the container plant is receiving to encourage healthy growth.

This plant and other spring-blooming bulbs are dormant in the summer.

more
1
Decrease watering only when the first half of the soil has dried out.
more
2
Do not apply any fertilizer.
more
3
After the foliage has turned brown and dries out, go ahead and remove it from the plant. Do not remove the leaves when green, the foliage provides nutrients to the bulb.

Established the plant will bloom during the fall after they wake up, so care is needed to make sure it grows well and is ready for cultivation.

more
1
Once the growth begins, start your regular watering and fertilizing routine to keep the soil slightly moist and fertile.
more
2
Fertilize at least once during this season.
more
3
Provide plenty of light to encourage growth and strong flowering.
more
4
Fall, once the temperature drops, is the best time to plant your plant or to propagate new plants and establish cuttings or replant corms in pots or directly in garden soil.

Your plant should be actively growing through this season.

more
1
While your plant tends to be hardy enough to grow through cold winters, you can also choose to move your plants indoors to give them extra protection from the cold.
more
2
Even so, make sure they have a good source of light to keep the growth strong.
more
3
You can even dig up the bulbs and transplant them to indoor pots or garden beds.
more
4
Water cautiously, as this plant doesn't require an abundance of moisture. Keep it moist but err on the side of dry rather than soggy.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Garden tulip based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Petal blight
Petal blight Petal blight
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Petal blight
plant poor
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Mildly to moderately toxic to dogs, the strength of a dogs' reaction to garden tulip ingestion depends on the quantity ingested. Toxins are are found throughout the plant, but are most heavily concentrated in the bulbs. Ingestion may cause diarrhea, vomiting, and excessive drooling. In extreme cases, where one or more full bulbs are eaten, dogs may experience an elevated heart rate or have difficulty breathing. Veterinary attention should be sought if your dog exhibits the more serious signs.
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
Cats should be kept away from the moderately toxic garden tulip. The bulb contains the most toxins, but ingestion of any part of the plant can cause a variety of symptoms including vomiting, diarrhea, and depression. Symptoms typically come on quite quickly but tulip poisoning is rarely fatal. Call your veterinarian for assistance if you suspect your cat has ingested any part of these plants.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
care_more_info

More About Garden Tulip

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual, Biennial
Spread
Spread
5 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Late winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Purple
Red
Orange
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 to 4 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 cm

Name story

Garden tulip
The word, tulip was derived from "دلبند‎", pronounced as "delband" in the Persian language with the meaning of turban, in Ottoman Empire around 1554, by diplomat Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq. This name is chosen because of the similarity in the appearance of a tulip flower to that of a turban. It may have been due to the lost in translation during the time when wearing tulips on turbans was considered fashionable. Possibly, the translator may have been confused with the wording of both the flower and the turban. Also, it also commonly grown in the garden as an ornamental plant, it is then called garden tulip.

Usages

Garden Use
The garden tulip is a perennial flower commonly found throughout the Balkans region of Europe. Its upright and sweetly scented bright flowers make it perfect as a specimen piece in cottage, city, or courtyard gardens. Growing garden tulip plants together in a group, or with other bulbous flowers, makes for a lovely display in the springtime. Plants such as brunneras or hostas would also accent the lovely colors of its blooms.
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

Why do my tulips only grow leaves but no flowers?

more more
There is a high chance that tulips does not blossom in their second year but instead grow leaves to gain more nutrition. Usually, they will need another one or two years to blossom. It is recommended to plant new bulbs every year to guarantee blooming. Also, if tulips are kept at temperatures of more than 5 ℃, their flower bud differentiation can be affected.
Aim to store tulip bulbs in a refrigerator at less than 5 ℃ for 15 to 20 days before planting them. However, this might increase the likelihood of the bulbs rotting due to the poor ventilation and high humidity in a refrigerator. It is recommended that bulbs are stored separately without touching each other. Alternatively, you can purchase bulbs that have been cold-treated.

What should I do with rotten bulbs?

more more
Tulip bulbs can rot easily; this can be caused by a variety of bacterial and fungal infections that appear as blue or black patches. Unfortunately, this is difficult to avoid and bulbs can easily be infected. A bulb will still be able to grow normally if the infection does not go all the way through to the basal plate.
If the bulb has rotted through to the basal plate, it should be discarded. Although a germicide may decrease the rate of infection, it may also cause cross-contamination of other tulip bulbs. Therefore, the best solution to avoid this problem is to store tulip bulbs in a cool and dry environment, ensuring that there is no contact between the bulbs.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
more
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

part-image-bg part-image
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
part-image-bg part-image
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part-image-bg part-image
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
part-image-bg part-image
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
part-image-bg part-image
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
trouble-image
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
trouble-image
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
Branches
trouble-image
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
trouble-image
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
trouble-image
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
Stems
trouble-image
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
Flowers
trouble-image
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
trouble-image
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
trouble-image
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
trouble-image
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
Leaves
trouble-image
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
trouble-image
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
trouble-image
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

check
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
check
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
check
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
check
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

check
Soil
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
Ideal Temperature
-10 to 35 ℃
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Ventilation
Well Ventilated
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Suitable Light
Full sun, Partial sun
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
more
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
show more show-more
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
show more show-more
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
show more show-more
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
show more show-more
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
label
main-image
Garden Tulip
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
label-image
Save and print our adaptation tips card for quick and easy reference.
label-image Download
label
main-image
Garden Tulip
label-image
Repotting
Repotting potted plants: Wait until flowering ends. Repotting in-ground plants: Be careful not to harm roots/soil.
label-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, and yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
label-image
Watering
Water new plants more often for 2 weeks. Avoid over/under watering by checking the soil.
label-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
label-image
Sunlight
Long flowering plants need normal light. Shade transplants for a week, then move to normal light.
plant

Botanist in your pocket

plant
plant

App

plant
close
product icon
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
ad
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
close
title
Botanist in your pocket
qrcode
Scan QR code to download
About
Basic Care
Advanced Care
Seasonal Tips
Pests & Diseases
Toxicity
More Info
FAQ
New Plant Care
Garden tulip
video play
Garden tulip
Garden tulip
Garden tulip

How to Care for Garden Tulip

Garden tulip (Tulipa gesneriana) is an ornamental bulbous plant native to southwest Asia. Ottomans brought it to Europe in the 16th century, and it almost instantly became popular, especially amongst Dutchmen. Garden tulip’s showy flowers are usually red or orange, but there are also varieties with purple, pink or yellow flowers.
symbolism

Symbolism

Love, charity, fame, beauty, blessing, eternity, eternal blessings
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Tulips have a low water requirement. Whether they are planted in a flower pot or a garden, watering them once after planting is usually sufficient. During the flowering period, potted tulips require occasional watering to maintain soil moisture and prevent it from drying out. Once the flowering period has finished, continue to maintain soil moisture until the leaves wither.
It is easier for the soil in a small pot to dry out, so a higher frequency of watering is required, but accumulation of water should be avoided. Rainwater will be sufficient for tulips planted in the garden unless the weather is extremely dry, when additional watering may be necessary.
close

Water

water Garden tulip
Once you have planted your Garden tulip , water them well once and then leave them. That initial watering will kick start their growth, but after that you can leave them be until you see shoots appear.
If your Garden tulip is in a pot, you will need to water them when the top 1-2inch feels dry. Container plants can dry out faster than bedded plants, so ensure that the soil is damp.
When your Garden tulip is growing, you will need to water about once a week. As the temperature rises, the soil will dry out faster and you will need to increase the frequency of watering. A dry soil environment will be more friendly to your Garden tulip than an excessively wet soil environment.
Garden tulip will become dormant during summer and the above-ground parts will completely dry up and die after dormancy. If you planted it in pots, you should stop watering your Garden tulip completely after the dormant part dries out. After the above-ground part dries out completely, dig up the buds and store them in a cool location or stop watering them completely to keep the soil dry. Resume watering until the next sowing season. Or keep them in the soil in a cool location until the next growing season. if you planted it outdoors, you shouldn't need to water it. Moreover, if there's plenty of rain in your region, you should consider digging them out to protect the buds from rot due to too much water.
Overwatering Garden tulip
Over-watered Garden tulip will develop yellow leaves. It is normal for yellow leaves to develop when Garden tulip has reached the end of their blooming period. However, if the leaves turn yellow before the flowers have bloomed, it is a sign of over watering.
If you water your Garden tulip too much, then try to ensure there is adequate drainage and do not give it any more water for a couple of days. You can mix some sawdust into the soil to absorb the moisture. If the situation continues to deteriorate after controlled watering, consider whether the seedpods have rotted. Try digging them up and checking whether they have changed color and become soft. Once you find severe decay, then you should promptly clean out these seedpods.
Your Garden tulip is more susceptible to rot indoors in low light and poor ventilation. Therefore, you need to be careful when watering indoors and make sure that a lot of the soil is dry before watering. If you can keep it moist for a long time indoors, you also need to consider if your Garden tulip is in an unsuitable location. Whereas outdoors, good ventilation and plenty of light will be relatively safe.
Underwatering Garden tulip
Under-watered Garden tulip actually looks similar to over-watered Garden tulip with their yellow leaves. However, the stems will also droop and leaves will look smaller and will curl. You may also see some brown patches appear.
If you have given your Garden tulip too little water, then do not panic. It has a level of drought tolerance. Once you have realised, give it a good drink but do not saturate the surrounding soil. Just make sure it is moist.But do not give them too much and overwater them, you just need to let the soil to be mosit. Extended periods in water can lead to root rot and fungus growing on the bulb. The fungus can cause serious damage to the bulb which is noticed through spots that appear on the leaves and buds. The tips of the leaves may also discolor and die.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
waterreminders

Never miss a care task again!

Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
What should I do if I water Garden tulip too much/too little?
more
How often should I water my Garden tulip?
more
Should I adjust the watering frequency according to different seasons or climate for my Garden tulip?
more
What should I look for when planting my Garden tulip indoors or outdoors?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Tulips are often used as one-time bulbs, which are then discarded after blooming or the bulbs are dug up in the summer and stored, so there is no need for fertilizer to be added. If the soil is in poor condition, mix some balanced fertilizer or bone meal into the soil when planting the bulbs.
close

Fertilizer

Although their beauty can be somewhat short-lived, the Garden tulip is very capable of enriching the appearance of your garden during the short time when it is in bloom. These plants typically bloom in spring or late winter and can be a very welcome form of color during that time of year.
In order to enjoy the beauty of a Garden tulip, then you need to know how to care for it. That maintenance routine should include a certain method of fertilization that will help your Garden tulip thrive. The sections below will introduce you to everything you need to know.
You need to fertilize a Garden tulip for a few important reasons. The most obvious of these reasons is that fertilizer will help your Garden tulip produce lovely blooms. Fertilizing in early spring is one of the best ways to ensure that your Garden tulip has excellent flowers during that season. Fertilizer also gives your Garden tulip plenty of energy that it can store in the ground during its dormant growth phases. Giving your Garden tulip some extra nutrients during the fall planting process or during the late spring will help your Garden tulip hold more energy to use once active growth resumes.
There are a few times during which it is a good idea to fertilize a Garden tulip. The main time to fertilize is in early spring when the flowers are forming, at which time, the right fertilizer will encourage better blooms. You can also fertilize your Garden tulip later in the spring after the flowers have faded. Feeding at this time will give your Garden tulip plenty of energy that it can store and use next year. If you are planting your Garden tulip for the first time in the fall you can also provide some fertilizer at that time as well. Fertilizing during the planting process gives your Garden tulip the best chance of producing a healthy set of flowers during its first growing season.
Several different types of fertilizer can be beneficial to Garden tulip. To keep matters simple, you can always rely on a balanced fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizer ratios that are equal, such as 10-10-10 or 5-5-5, will work well. It is also often best to use a granular fertilizer rather than a liquid one. If you are interested in being a bit more specific with your fertilizer choices, you should consider using a fertilizer that is rich overall with the three main nutrients but a bit higher in phosphorus content. Many gardeners stand by the claim that phosphorus will encourage better flowers that last longer. Organic materials, including bonemeal, can help add the phosphorus that may benefit your Garden tulip and its blooming abilities.
The first time that you should fertilize your Garden tulip is during the planting process, which takes place in the fall. After digging a small hole to plant your bulb, you can add some granular slow-release fertilizer to the hole. During the process, you should water continually to maintain consistent soil moisture. Following planting, you can fertilize once again during the early spring as the plant is emerging from the ground and developing its flowers. Again, you should use a granular fertilizer that has a balanced mix of nutrients and sprinkle it on the ground. As you apply the fertilizer, you should be sure to water the soil gently at the same time.
While fertilizer can be incredibly helpful to a Garden tulip, it can also be equally harmful if you give too much. Overfertilization will not only damage a Garden tulip, but it may lead to death in some cases. The best way to avoid this is to follow the instructions on the fertilizer package you buy rather than exceeding the recommended dose in hopes of making a more vigorous plant.
Likewise, it is typically less likely that you'll overfertilize your Garden tulip if you use a slow-release granular fertilizer. Since these fertilizers release their nutrients slowly, as the name implies, they are less capable of giving your Garden tulip too much fertilizer at once.
The correct times to fertilize a Garden tulip are during the fall planting process, during the early spring bloom period, and during the late spring following the bloom period. Fertilizing during any other part of the year is not necessary and may be harmful to your plant.
When caring for a Garden tulip, you should know that it has a considerable dormant phase in which it will not need fertilizer and will need far less water as well. As you would guess, your Garden tulip will be dormant during winter. However, this plant also enters a dormant phase during the summer. After the flowers fade, the leaves will persist briefly before dying back to the ground. Once the leaves die back, your plant has returned to a dormant phase, and it will not need fertilizer.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Why do I need to fertilize my Garden tulip?
more
When is the best time to fertilize my Garden tulip?
more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Garden tulip?
more
What type of fertilizer does my Garden tulip need?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Tulips prefer a location that has good sun exposure. Whether they are planted in a pot or in the garden, tulips require at least 7 hours of sun exposure every day to get beautiful blooms. Tulips do not require any shade.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
What type of sunlight does Garden tulip need?
more
Can sunlight damage Garden tulip? How to protect Garden tulip from the sun and heat damage?
more
Should I protect Garden tulip from sun exposure?
more
What will happen if Garden tulip gets inadequate sunlight?
more
Show More more
Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Cultivation:PruningDetail
Pruning withered flowers promptly can avoid excessive consumption of nutrients and energy during the fruit-bearing phase, thus preserving nutrients in the bulb, prolonging the blooming period of any other flowers, and enhancing the vitality of the plants.
If you want to collect seeds from tulips, wait for the pods to dry out and crack after the flowers have withered. Cut the scape at the base level after collecting the seeds. Generally speaking, it is recommended that each tulip bulb be planted only once per lifetime. Following the flowering period, the bulb can be dug out and discarded along with withered leaves.
How can I prune my Garden tulip?
more
What should I do after pruning my Garden tulip?
more
How can I prune my Garden tulip during different seasons?
more
When should I prune my Garden tulip through different stages of growth?
more
Show More more
close
care_advanced_guide

Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Most tulip hybrids are cold-resistant. When the air temperature drops below 5 ℃ for 3 to 4 weeks, it actually promotes flower bud differentiation and improves the flowering rate of tulip bulbs. Also, tulips don’t need much water, so they should be watered just once when you plant them. In general, the accumulation of water should be avoided because it can cause tulip bulbs to rot. When storing tulip bulbs, make sure that the surrounding air is as dry as possible to prevent them from rotting.
What is the optimal temperature for Garden tulip?
more
Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Garden tulip
more
How can I protect Garden tulip from extreme temperatures?
more
Dormant season temperature recommendations for Garden tulip
more
Show More more
Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Cultivation:SoilDetail
Tulips prefer rich, well-drained, alkaline soil. They will also grow well in poor, sandy soil but not in clay soil, which can affect the growth of tulip bulbs. Adding coarse sand and humus to clay soil will increase its permeability to air and allow water to drain well, providing optimal growth conditions for garden tulip. As for acidic soil, adding lime can increase the pH of the soil - this is better for tulips because they are adapted to grow in soils with a pH of 6 to 7.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:HarvestDetail

Harvest

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Small bulbs often form around tulip bulbs and these can also be collected for planting. At the end of winter or in early spring, take out the tulip bulbs you have stored and peel any small bulbs off the plants. plant them in a pot that has been prepared with soil. Make sure the spacing between each bulb is three times the diameter of the small bulbs.
Then, cover the bulbs with soil, 3 cm thick. Finally, place the flower pot in a shady place, and keep the soil moist. After one year, multiple bulbs can be planted together in the same flower pot with some fertilizer mixed in with the soil. After about 2 to 3 years, they will have grown to a size suitable for flowering.
close

Propagation

This plant propagates in a special way, and if you want to propagate this plant quickly, using tubers is a good way. For the best results, propagate your Garden tulip when it's dormant. You can also propagate plants in the early spring or during the autumn months. Since it won't need much water during these periods, it will be easier for the plant to adjust. If you propagate during the growing season, trim away about two-thirds of the leaves to reduce water needs. To safely divide and propagate your tubers, you only need a couple of tools. Make sure you have these on hand and then get started!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife or garden trowel.
  2. Space in your soil or growing medium.
  3. (possibly) sharp, sanitized scissors or shears.
Steps: Step 1: Uncover the underground root stem or tuber. Step 2: Use your tool to divide the root or tuber into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye or bud. If the tubers are relatively small, they cannot be cut to prevent the tubers from being too small for nutrition. Step 3:Plant the divided tubers into the soil. Mix organic fertilizer into the soil if its possible. Place one or two tubers in each hole, preferably at a depth of 7-15 cm. Step 4:After planting, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. This will help the tubers to germinate in time. Step 5: If necessary, cut back most of the foliage of non-dormant plants to allow stronger root growth.
Show More
more
Unlock complete care guides for 10,000+ species
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
The best season to plant tulips is from late fall to early winter, when the temperature at night falls below 10 ℃. If the temperature is too high, the roots will grow poorly and your tulips will become unhealthy. If you are planting tulips in the garden, they are best placed in a spot with great sun exposure and good ventilation.
Before planting tulips, first remove all weeds from the area. Then, dig a large hole and place the tulip bulb in it. The planting depth and spacing of tulip bulbs should be at least two times the diameter of the bulbs. If the bulbs are being planted in clay soil, the recommended planting depth is 5 to 10 cm. In loose soil, the recommended planting depth is 15 cm. After placing the tulip bulb in the hole, gently cover it over with soil. Finally, compact the soil using a board or a spade.
You can place a net beneath the bulb, so that it can be easily collected once the tulip has flowered and the plant withers. You can also plant a bulb directly in a special bulb basket and bury the basket in the soil. It is not recommended to plant tulips neatly in a regular shape or with equal distances between bulbs, as this can make them look less natural.
Tulips can also be planted in flower pots, buckets, stone troughs, or other decorative containers, but there must be drainage holes at the bottom of the container. For large containers, it is best to have a layer of coarse stones or brick pieces, 3 cm thick, at the bottom for good drainage. The planting depth in containers should follow the guidelines mentioned above, with a layer of soil at least 2.5 cm thick beneath each bulb, although they can be spaced slightly closer together. The surface should be covered with a layer of gravel to help keep the moisture in and make the containers look attractive.
Cultivation:HarvestDetail
When tulips are planted in the soil, each bloom can last for 1 to 2 weeks. After cutting, the vase life of a flower lasts for between 7 and 15 days.It is recommended that tulips should be harvested when the bracts are enlarged and the outer perianths have just softened, but not fully developed. When harvesting the flowers, use sharp garden scissors to cut the base at the level of the scape, and promptly place the flowers in a vase filled with clean water to avoid water loss.
Tulips have parallel veins, as is the case with most monocots. It is better to cut their leaves with a sharp knife in one movement. The vascular bundles of the stems and the leaves are connected, so the superficial layers of the herbaceous stems will be injured if the leaves are torn off by hand.
Tulips are phototatic, so the light they receive should be evenly distributed; this will avoid causing their stems to bend. If the stems do bend, you can adjust the orientation of the vase, for example by 45° each day, so the flowers slowly turn back to their original direction of growth.
Tulips rarely bloom well in their second year, so they are usually replaced with new bulbs. Bulbs can also be harvested at the end of the flowering period, in the summer, and then replanted in the fall. Once the parts of the plants have turned yellow and withered, the bulbs should be dug up and any remaining soil and leaves on them should be removed. Discard any bad bulbs and dry the healthy ones. The bulbs should be stored in paper bags and placed in a cool and dry place. They can then be planted again in the fall.
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

more

Spring

more

Summer

more

Fall

more

Winter

Spring blooming bulbs like this plant are easy to care for, even during the growing season. The bulb provides the necessary nutrients that may be lacking in the soil.

more
1
However, an application of bone meal can help support healthy growth.
more
2
Water the plants regularly, whenever the soil is beginning to dry out.
more
3
Increase the amount of light the container plant is receiving to encourage healthy growth.

This plant and other spring-blooming bulbs are dormant in the summer.

more
1
Decrease watering only when the first half of the soil has dried out.
more
2
Do not apply any fertilizer.
more
3
After the foliage has turned brown and dries out, go ahead and remove it from the plant. Do not remove the leaves when green, the foliage provides nutrients to the bulb.

Established the plant will bloom during the fall after they wake up, so care is needed to make sure it grows well and is ready for cultivation.

more
1
Once the growth begins, start your regular watering and fertilizing routine to keep the soil slightly moist and fertile.
more
2
Fertilize at least once during this season.
more
3
Provide plenty of light to encourage growth and strong flowering.
more
4
Fall, once the temperature drops, is the best time to plant your plant or to propagate new plants and establish cuttings or replant corms in pots or directly in garden soil.

Your plant should be actively growing through this season.

more
1
While your plant tends to be hardy enough to grow through cold winters, you can also choose to move your plants indoors to give them extra protection from the cold.
more
2
Even so, make sure they have a good source of light to keep the growth strong.
more
3
You can even dig up the bulbs and transplant them to indoor pots or garden beds.
more
4
Water cautiously, as this plant doesn't require an abundance of moisture. Keep it moist but err on the side of dry rather than soggy.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Garden tulip based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming  Wilting after blooming  Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More more
Caterpillars
Caterpillars  Caterpillars  Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More more
Petal blight
Petal blight  Petal blight  Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Learn More more
Underwatering
Underwatering  Underwatering  Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More more
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More more
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
close
Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Petal blight
plant poor
Petal blight
Bacterial infections can cause flowers to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Petal blight, sometimes called flower blight, is a fungal disease that only affects the blooms of some ornamental flowering plants. As the infection progresses, it destroys the flower, yet it never damages the vegetative or green parts of the plant.
When flowers are infected, the symptoms look similar to Botrytis blight, but Botrytis also infects dead or dormant vegetative tissue.
The disease was first discovered in Japanese plants in 1919 and in the US in the late 1930s. Presently it is also found in New Zealand, Australia, and parts of Europe. Unfortunately, no plants have high resistance to petal blight, but specific cultivars are more susceptible than others, particularly species with double blooms.
Petal blight infection rates are high when temperatures are mild to warm (optimum temperatures are 15 to 21 ℃) and the weather is misty or rainy.
Overall, petal blight is an aesthetic problem that ruins blossoms. The disease is not harmful to the long-term health of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The severity of the symptoms varies, depending upon the species of plant infected. Signs of petal blight are commonly seen on the blooms just after they open.
  • Pallid spots on colored petals.
  • Brown spots on white petals.
  • Browning around the petal edges.
  • Small spots look water-soaked.
  • Spots rapidly enlarge and merge.
  • Flowers become limp.
  • The entire flower turns light brown, but does not crumble.
  • Flowers become slimy at first and then take on a leathery texture.
  • A ring of white or gray mycelium can be seen at the base of the petals.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Petal blight is caused by several different fungi, with each type infecting specific plants. Ovulinia azalea infects azaleas species and cultivars, and rhododendrons. Ciborinia camelliae infects camellia cultivars.
Shortly after blooming, the fungus infects the base of the flowers by the calyx. The fungus produces cell wall-degrading enzymes that destroy flowers within a couple of days. When the flowers fall to the ground, the fungus' hard fruiting bodies fall to the soil as well, overwintering until the following spring.
When temperatures hit the optimum range the following season, spores are transmitted by insects or can spread on wind currents up to about 12 miles. Once in the soil, the pathogen can be active for three to five years.
Solutions
Solutions
Like other fungal diseases, the progression of petal blight is extremely difficult to stop and impossible to reverse once it infects a plant. The best course of action is to remove all damaged flowers immediately and dispose of them entirely. Do not put them in the compost pile, where spores could grow and spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Apply a preventative dose of fungicide as soon as blooms start to show color on the plant. The preventative can be applied as a soil drench or directly to the flowers on the plant.
  • Avoid overhead watering during blooming.
  • Remove any leaf litter and dead flowers at the end of the season.
  • Cover the ground under infected plants with 4” of fresh organic mulch before winter, taking care not to disturb the infected soil.
  • Buy bare-root specimens when available.
  • When potted plants are purchased, remove the top layer of potting soil and replace it with fresh mulch.
  • Plant cultivars that bloom early in the season before the temperatures get high enough for petal blight pathogens to be spreading.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
care_toxicity

Toxicity

Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Dogs
Toxic to Cats
Toxic to Cats
* The judgment on toxicity and danger is for reference only. We DO NOT GUARANTEE any accuracy of such judgment. Therefore, you SHALL NOT rely on such judgment. It is IMPORTANT TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ADVICE in advance when necessary.
Mildly to moderately toxic to dogs, the strength of a dogs' reaction to garden tulip ingestion depends on the quantity ingested. Toxins are are found throughout the plant, but are most heavily concentrated in the bulbs. Ingestion may cause diarrhea, vomiting, and excessive drooling. In extreme cases, where one or more full bulbs are eaten, dogs may experience an elevated heart rate or have difficulty breathing. Veterinary attention should be sought if your dog exhibits the more serious signs.
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Your pets like cats and dogs can be poisoned by them as well!
1
Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
It’s better to kill those growing around your house. Wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages, and do not let your pets reach it;Do not let your lovely pets eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
7
If you take your pets to hike with you in the wild, please don’t let them eat any plants that you don’t know;
8
Once your pets eat, touch or inhale anything from toxic plants and act abnormally, please call the doctors for help ASAP!
pets
Pets
Some pets are less likely than children to eat and touch just about everything. This is good, as a pet owner. However, you know your pet best, and it is up to you to keep them safe. There are plenty of poisonous weeds that can grow within the confines of your lawn, which might make your dogs or cats ill or worse if they eat them. Try to have an idea of what toxic plants grow in your area and keep them under control and your pets away from them.
pets
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Who Is Most at Risk of Plant Poisoning?
Everyone should keep the following in mind to prevent being poisoned:
1
Do not eat any parts, nor contact with the sap of toxic or unknown plants;
2
If you need to kill it, wear long-sleeved shirts, pants and gloves with sharp tools to dig it out completely;
3
Clean the tools with rubbing alcohol or soap and water but do not do that with bare hands;
4
Clean your hands and skin once exposed to plants with soap and water;
5
Consider using barrier creams that contain bentoquatam to prevent poison oak, ivy and sumac rashes;
6
Dump it in special trash cans in sealed garbage packages;
7
Wear properly when you hiking or working in the wilderness. Long pants, long sleeves, gloves, hiking shoes, etc., that protect you from being hurt by any plants;
8
Once you or your family aren’t feeling well after eating, touching or inhaling anything from toxic plants, please call your doctor for help ASAP!
Outdoor Workers
Outdoor Workers and Recreationalists
Those who enjoy the outdoors either as a hobby or as part of their work will rarely see a plant and decide to munch on it (although the scenario is not unheard of). However, they do tend to deal with moving through and brushing aside plants. These people are more at risk of being poisoned by touching toxic plants than by ingesting them.
Outdoor Workers
Foragers
Foragers
Foraging for food and medicinal plants is a desirable skill among people who want to feel at one with the land. This hobby can be very useful and enjoyable, but if done wrong , it can lead to disastrous effects. People who forage are picking and grabbing plants with the full intention of using those plants, most of the time to ingest them.
Foragers
Children
Children
While outdoor workers are more likely to touch poison and foragers are more likely to ingest poison, children can easily do both. These bundles of joy just love to run around and explore the world. They enjoy touching things and occasionally shoving random stuff in their mouth; this is a terrible combination with toxic plants in the mix.
If you let your children run about, it is important to know what are the local toxic plants that they could accidentally get into. Try to educate the children and steer them away from where the toxic plants are located.
Children
Common Toxic Houseplants
Common Toxic Houseplants
When it comes to decorating a house, there is nothing more refreshing than adding some beautiful houseplants. Some common house plants can also be toxic.

Aloe

aloe
Aloe is famous for its sunburn-soothing properties and its gorgeous desert design. However, many people do not realize that the latex the aloe vera plant produces can be mildly toxic to pets and children.

The latex contains a chemical compound known as saponin. Which when ingested, can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and low blood sugar. This, if left unchecked, can lead to dehydration and electrolyte imbalance. The proper response is to contact poison control or a veterinarian to know what to do in your particular circumstance if either your child or pet consumes aloe.

The latex of the plant is similar to the sap of the tree. It is inside the leaf, but sticks mainly toward the edges. If aloe gel is prepared properly it should be safe for use, but be sure to apply it only topically when treating burns.

Philodendron

Philodendron
Philodendron, also known as sweetheart vine, has become a resident at many houses and even businesses. They are glossy green and the leaves elegantly split, displaying interesting designs. Behind this beauty there is a needle-like toxin called calcium oxalate crystals.

These crystals are held within the plant and only affect you, your pets, or your loved ones if the plant tissue is broken. If ingested, the crystals can cause severe swelling, difficulty breathing, stomach pain, burning and pain. If they are accidentally caught on the skin, they can cause skin irritation.

If anyone accidentally ingests philodendron and they find it difficult to breathe or their tongue starts to swell up, it is important to seek medical attention immediately to avoid suffocation. If you have very young children or pets who have a tendency to tear at plants, keep them away from any philodendrons.

Peace Lily

Peace Lily
Peace lilies produce stunningly white flowers that bring to mind peace and serenity. This is one reason they are invited into our homes and given a place to stay. However, similar to philodendrons, the peace lily contains oxalate crystals known as raphides.

The raphides, once ingested, will cause swelling and burning sensations and can also cause skin irritation. Both pets and humans can get these symptoms so it is important to keep these plants from anyone who is likely to tear or chew it. Symptoms can become dire if the raphides cause the tongue and throat to swell to a point where the person or pet is having difficulty breathing. Seek proper medical attention if this is the case.

Snake Plant

Snake Plant
The snake plant is an interesting and popular house plant. Its stark architecture and wavy coloring has made it a fan favorite. This plant too, however, is toxic when ingested or if the sap touches your skin.

Snake plant sap will cause rashes if it comes into contact with your skin. In addition, it will cause diarrhea and vomiting when ingested. Again these symptoms are very serious and would be best avoided by keeping snake plants out of reach or by choosing a different houseplant.
Common Toxic Garden Plants
Common Toxic Garden Plants

Daffodil

Daffodil
Daffodils are a strikingly colorful flower. This can sometimes bring them much attention not from just onlooking adults but children as well. Since kids are more drawn to colorful objects, they may have a higher chance of just grabbing the flower and eating it. Adults have also been known to accidentally grab daffodil bulbs instead of onions.

Why are these mistakes so dangerous? Daffodils contain lycorine, which can induce nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. It also contains oxalates which can cause swelling and pain. The symptoms can be worse in animals, because if your pets eat daffodils they may experience drowsiness, low blood pressure or even liver damage.

Make sure to call poison control when these symptoms set in. The vomiting and diarrhea have been known to go away after 3 hours, but it is better to be safe than sorry. Ingesting liquids to keep hydration up can be important. If the patient is having difficulty breathing, seek medical attention immediately.

Hydrangea

Hydrangea
Hydrangeas are unique, with their soft blue and pink flowers. They are a great addition to any garden, but should not be snacked on—not that you would want to. Hydrangeas can be especially nasty because they contain compounds known as glycosides. These will release hydrogen cyanide into the bloodstream when consumed. This will block your body’s ability to uptake oxygen to the cells in your body.

The way to combat this kind of poisoning is through getting IVs from the vet or doctor. It is important to contact your medical professional immediately since the symptoms can be fatal within minutes or hours.

Rhododendrons

Rhododendrons
Rhododendron, the state flower of Washington, is also toxic. The multitudinous, pink flowers can be quite dangerous. All parts of this plant are toxic, the leaves and seeds more so than the flowers. However, even the nectar of the flower is toxic and in the Mediterranean, where rhododendrons grow in more dense quantities, the honey from bees who gather rhododendron nectar can be poisonous.

Normally kids and pets do not eat enough to experience the full poisoning effect. However, just eating two leaves is enough to be considered dangerous. The grayanotoxin glycosides within the rhododendron can cause vomiting, diarrhea and irregular heartbeats. Things can get very serious when too much rhododendron is consumed and can lead to necessary medical intervention.

Start by calling poison control first if you suspect anyone has been munching on rhododendrons. The experts there will be able to help guide you through the necessary processes to cure your loved one.

Rhubarb

Rhubarb
Yummy rhubarb has a nasty side to it. While the stems are used in many recipes, including for rhubarb strawberry pie, the leaves are toxic. They contain oxalic acid which is known to blister the mouth, cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and kidney stones. The leaves are known to be more toxic to pets than humans, but in either case, it is important to contact poison control immediately to figure out necessary steps to cure the patient.
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard
Common Toxic Weeds in the Yard

Bittersweet Nightshade

Bittersweet Nightshade
Nightshade is an invasive, noxious weed that is extremely poisonous. It has been found along the East and West Coast of the U.S. It makes its home in areas with disturbed soil. This could be near your garden or areas that have recently had bushes/trees put in.

These plants are dark green with purple flowers that develop into bright red berries. The whole plant is toxic and should be avoided by pets and children alike. If ingested it can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. The colorful berries are especially enticing to young children. If you see any plants that look similar to tomato or pepper plants that you did not plant in your yard, it is best to just pull them immediately.

Call poison control immediately if you think someone has fallen victim to nightshade.

Buttercups

Buttercups
Buttercups are found throughout the United States, especially in wet areas. The shiny, yellow flowers will pop up in the springtime, accompanying their dandelion friends. However, unlike dandelions, buttercups are not edible.

Buttercups will release a compound called protoanemonin. This toxin is known to cause vomiting, diarrhea, bloody stool, hypersalivation, depression, blisters, and more. These symptoms will affect both humans and animals. The sap may also cause irritation when it comes into contact with skin. These yellow flowers are dangerous and children should be observed cautiously when around them.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves
Foxgloves are beautiful plants that build towers out of vivid purple bell-shaped blossoms. They are very pretty to look at, but they contain a compound known as digoxin. This chemical is used in certain medicines to help people with certain heart conditions. However, the medicine is made by specialists, whereas someone eating foxgloves will receive unregulated amounts of the chemical.

This toxin can make you vomit and lower your heartbeat. This often causes dizziness and faintness. It is extremely important to call poison control immediately to know what to do in the case of foxglove poisoning. Some people have confused the young leaves of foxglove with borage, making adult foragers at risk as well as kids and pets.
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
How to Tend to or Get Rid of Toxic Plants
Now that you know where to start with toxic plant identification, let us discuss how to either tend to the poisonous plants you decide to keep or get rid of them that plague your yard.

How to Tend to Poisonous Plants

Many plants that are toxic when ingested are also skin irritants. The philodendron is a good example of this. When the sap comes into contact with skin, it can cause a rash to form. To help protect yourself when tending to toxic plants, it is important to wear some sort of gloves.
Tend
Latex gloves may be the best solution due to their disposability. Regular gloves could potentially keep the poisonous sap on their surface. If the gloves aren’t cleaned then you could accidentally touch the irritant or pass it to someone else.

In addition you will want to plan where to keep your deadly beauties. If you have a toxic indoor plant try to keep it up high or out of reach of children and pets. This will keep accidents few and far between. Another idea is keeping your plants in areas that are usually inaccessible to children or pets. Areas such as an office, study room, or guest bedroom could be good locations. If applicable, you could also set up a terrarium for your little plant baby, making it more difficult for curious hands or paws to access.
tend2
If you plan to have outdoor plants, location will be key. You will want to put plants in an area that will be inaccessible to children, pets and even wild animals. You will probably want to avoid planting the plants in the front of your house if kids walk by on a regular basis, just to be cautious. Having the plants behind a fence will be best, but use your discretion when choosing a spot.

How to Get Rid of Poisonous Plants

plants
The easiest but possibly most controversial way to get rid of poisonous plants is by using herbicides. This can be especially easy if you own a grass lawn and use an herbicide that targets broadleaf (non-grass) species. You can find many herbicides meant for yard use by simply searching the term online. Once you have purchased the herbicide you will want to make sure to follow the label posted on the container. If you follow the instructions precisely, then everything should run smoothly for you.

If you don’t plan on using herbicides, there are a few organic methods you can use to try to get rid of toxic plants. You can manually pull the plants out of the ground. This is probably one of the most difficult methods because there is no assurance that you will get the whole plant out this way.

You can also try pouring boiling hot water or spraying white vinegar on the target plants. This may take more time than using a synthetic herbicide, but you can feel a little better about using these products.

You can also try to use wood chips to cover a certain area where you do not want anything to grow. This will not stop all the weeds, but the few that make it through can be easily picked by hand.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
care_more_info

More About Garden Tulip

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial, Annual, Biennial
Spread
Spread
5 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Spring, Late winter
Flower Color
Flower Color
Yellow
Purple
Red
Orange
Leaf Color
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
Flower Size
2 to 4 cm
Plant Height
Plant Height
50 cm

Name story

Garden tulip
The word, tulip was derived from "دلبند‎", pronounced as "delband" in the Persian language with the meaning of turban, in Ottoman Empire around 1554, by diplomat Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq. This name is chosen because of the similarity in the appearance of a tulip flower to that of a turban. It may have been due to the lost in translation during the time when wearing tulips on turbans was considered fashionable. Possibly, the translator may have been confused with the wording of both the flower and the turban. Also, it also commonly grown in the garden as an ornamental plant, it is then called garden tulip.

Usages

Garden Use
The garden tulip is a perennial flower commonly found throughout the Balkans region of Europe. Its upright and sweetly scented bright flowers make it perfect as a specimen piece in cottage, city, or courtyard gardens. Growing garden tulip plants together in a group, or with other bulbous flowers, makes for a lovely display in the springtime. Plants such as brunneras or hostas would also accent the lovely colors of its blooms.
plantfinder

Find your perfect green friends.

Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
care_faq

Common Problems

Why do my tulips only grow leaves but no flowers?

more more
There is a high chance that tulips does not blossom in their second year but instead grow leaves to gain more nutrition. Usually, they will need another one or two years to blossom. It is recommended to plant new bulbs every year to guarantee blooming. Also, if tulips are kept at temperatures of more than 5 ℃, their flower bud differentiation can be affected.
Aim to store tulip bulbs in a refrigerator at less than 5 ℃ for 15 to 20 days before planting them. However, this might increase the likelihood of the bulbs rotting due to the poor ventilation and high humidity in a refrigerator. It is recommended that bulbs are stored separately without touching each other. Alternatively, you can purchase bulbs that have been cold-treated.

What should I do with rotten bulbs?

more more
Tulip bulbs can rot easily; this can be caused by a variety of bacterial and fungal infections that appear as blue or black patches. Unfortunately, this is difficult to avoid and bulbs can easily be infected. A bulb will still be able to grow normally if the infection does not go all the way through to the basal plate.
If the bulb has rotted through to the basal plate, it should be discarded. Although a germicide may decrease the rate of infection, it may also cause cross-contamination of other tulip bulbs. Therefore, the best solution to avoid this problem is to store tulip bulbs in a cool and dry environment, ensuring that there is no contact between the bulbs.
care_new_plant

Caring for a New Plant

new-plant
The following pictures and instructions for flower plant are aimed to help your plants adapt and thrive in a new environment.
more
1
Picking a Healthy Flower Plant
check-health

Check Its Health

more
Whole Plant
Symmetrical crown, evenly distributed branches, full and compact shape, no excessive growth, close internodes, and uniform leaf size.
more
Flowers
Many unopened flower buds are closely attached, without falling off easily when shaken, and show no diseased spots or wilting on the petals.
part
Branches
The branches are not withered, and the trunk is free of boreholes or damage.
more
Stems
No mold, browning or soft rot at the base of the plant.
more
Leaves
Check the inside of the plant, shaded and overlapping areas, back of leaves. Even colour, no yellowing, no brown spots, no crawling insects, no cobwebs, no deformities, no wilting.
health-trouble

Health Troubleshooting

Whole Plant
Branches
Stems
Flowers
Leaves
more
more 1 Asymmetrical crown or missing, uneven branching: prune the weak and slender branches of the larger portion of the asymmetrical crown, then trim the overgrown larger branches.
more
more 2 Internodes are longer in the upper part, leaves are sparse and smaller on top: increase light intensity or duration.
more
more 1 Dry branches: check if the branch is still alive by peeling back a small section of bark and trim away any dry branches. Watch out for signs of insect infestation inside the branch.
more
more 2 Bark with holes: inject insecticide into the holes and apply systemic insecticide to the roots.
more
more 3 Damaged bark: brush on a wound-healing agent, and avoid getting it wet.
more
Mildew, browning, or soft rot at the base: place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment and water with fungicide.
more
more 1 Many flowers have already bloomed: lower the temperature in the environment to extend the flowering period. Prune any dying flowers in a timely manner to prevent nutrient depletion.
more
more 2 Flower bud dropping: keep temperature at 15-25℃, place in bright but shaded area, water frequently, and avoid fertilizing.
more
more 3 Flower petals have spots or disease: avoid spraying water directly onto the petals.
more
more 4 Flower wilting: avoid soil that is too wet or too dry. When touching the soil with your finger, it should feel moist but not leave any water traces on your finger.
more
more 1 Uneven leaf color and yellowing: prune yellow leaves and check if there are signs of rot at the base of the plant. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 2 Brown spots or small yellow spots: place the plant in a ventilated area and avoid watering the leaves. Spray with fungicide for severe cases.
more
more 3 Tiny crawling insects on the back of leaves or spider webs between leaves: increase light exposure and spray with insecticide for severe cases.
more
more 4 Deformations or missing parts on leaves: determine if it's physical damage or pest infestation. Linear or tearing damage is physical, while the rest are pests. Spray with insecticide.
more
more 5 Wilting leaves: provide partial shade and avoid excessive sun exposure. Remove 1/3 to 1/2 of the leaves for severe cases.
autodiagnose

Treat and prevent plant diseases.

AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
check-condition

Check Its Growing Conditions

more
Soil Check
Soil should smell fresh like after a rain and no musty odor.
more
Light Check
Check the light requirement of the plant and if it match with planting location.
more
Ventilation Check
Ensure good ventilation.
more
Temperature Check
Ensure outdoor temperature is suitable for plants.
condition-trouble

Condition Troubleshooting

Soil
Ideal Temperature
Ventilation
Suitable Light
check
Potting mix soil, Peat moss mix soil
Soil
Soil smells musty or foul: check the root system for decay, place the plant in a ventilated, dry environment, and water with fungicide.
check
-10 to 35 ℃
Ideal Temperature
Temperature is too low: Temporarily move the plants indoors and then to outdoors when temperature is suitable.
check
Well Ventilated
Ventilation
Non-ventilated environment: can lead to root rot, diseases, and flower drop. Place the plants in an airy location avoiding dead spots.
check
Full sun, Partial sun
Suitable Light
Insufficient light: reduce light appropriately during flowering period but not a fully shaded environment. After flowering, move to normal cultivation environment. For plants with long flowering and fruiting periods, provide normal light to avoid shortening.
Transplant recovery: After transplanting, pot plants should be temporarily shaded, then moved to normal light after a week if no abnormal drop or wilting. In-ground plants, shade for a week and then transfer to normal light or just pay attention to watering.
more
2
Adapting Your New Flower Plant
Step 1
condition-image
Repotting
Potted plants - Wait until flowering stage is over before changing pots. In-ground plants - Plant directly taking care not to harm root system or remove soil.
Step 2
condition-image
Pruning
Prune residual flowers, yellow/dead leaves. No other pruning at this time.
Step 3
condition-image
Watering
Water appropriately. Water more frequently for newly transplanted or purchased plants to keep the soil consistently moist for at least 2 weeks. Avoid overwatering, do not water when there is water on your finger after touching the soil. Both underwatering and overwatering can cause plants to drop their flowers or fruit.
Step 4
condition-image
Fertilizing
Don't fertilize just after purchase. Fertilize after 2 weeks using half concentration.
lightmeter

Know the light your plants really get.

Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
product icon close
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
product icon
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
product icon
Nearly 5 years of research
product icon
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
ad
product icon close
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Cookie Management Tool
In addition to managing cookies through your browser or device, you can change your cookie settings below.
Necessary Cookies
Necessary cookies enable core functionality. The website cannot function properly without these cookies, and can only be disabled by changing your browser preferences.
Analytical Cookies
Analytical cookies help us to improve our application/website by collecting and reporting information on its usage.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_ga Google Analytics These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here. 1 Year
_pta PictureThis Analytics We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_ga
Source
Google Analytics
Purpose
These cookies are set because of our use of Google Analytics. They are used to collect information about your use of our application/website. The cookies collect specific information, such as your IP address, data related to your device and other information about your use of the application/website. Please note that the data processing is essentially carried out by Google LLC and Google may use your data collected by the cookies for own purposes, e.g. profiling and will combine it with other data such as your Google Account. For more information about how Google processes your data and Google’s approach to privacy as well as implemented safeguards for your data, please see here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_pta
Source
PictureThis Analytics
Purpose
We use these cookies to collect information about how you use our site, monitor site performance, and improve our site performance, our services, and your experience.
Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
_adj
Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
This page looks better in the app
Open