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About
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Basic Care
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FAQ

How to Care for Rain Lily

Rain lily (Zephyranthes drummondii) is a deciduous perennial that will grow from 15 to 46 cm tall. It produces dainty white flowers that open in the evening. Blossoms last from two to four days. It is an excellent choice for a night garden. Flowers are fragrant and attract bees and butterflies.
symbolism

Symbolism

Rebirth, new beginnings and big expectations, happiness and joy
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
care_basic_guide

Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Rain lily is very low-maintenance. It can survive moderate periods of drought without supplemental water, although the plant typically blooms after summer rainstorms. If desired, you can water your rain lily to encourage blooming.

Water

Potted Rain lily
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Rain lily needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. When it comes time to water your Rain lily , you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided.
The Rain lily plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than twice per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Rain lily will contract a disease.
Ground Rain lily
If you grow your Rain lily outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established Rain lily can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
The water needs of the Rain lily can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Rain lily is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Rain lily will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Rain lily will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Rain lily more water at this time.
Overwater and underwater
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Rain lily , but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant.
Underwatering is far less common for the Rain lily , as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Rain lily have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for an Rain lily plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Rain lily plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Rain lily is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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Cultivation:WaterDetail
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What is the best way to water my Rain lily?
When watering the Rain lily, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Rain lily comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Rain lily too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Rain lily, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Rain lily, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Rain lily have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Rain lily. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Rain lily grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Rain lily is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Read More more
How often should I water my Rain lily?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Rain lily needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Rain lily outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Rain lily can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
Read More more
How much water does my Rain lily need?
When it comes time to water your Rain lily, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
Read More more
How should I water my Rain lily at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Rain lily can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Rain lily is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Rain lily will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Rain lily will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Rain lily more water at this time.
Read More more
How should I water my Rain lily through the seasons?
The Rain lily will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Rain lily will contract a disease.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Rain lily indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Rain lily indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Rain lily to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Rain lily very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Your rain lily does not need to be fertilized. However, if your soil has poor fertility or is heavy clay, the plant will benefit from compost. Add this to your planting hole and spread 5 to 8 cm of compost over your plant each spring.

Fertilizer

Although Rain lily comes from the warmer parts of the world, these plants are commonly grown as houseplants. The brilliant colored flowers of the Rain lily make them some of the most beautiful plants that you can own. However, if you wish to get the most out of your Rain lily and enjoy the greatest version of their blooms, then you must understand how to fertilize this plant correctly. Proper fertilization will help your Rain lily look great and remain healthy, and the sections below will show you how to feed this plant the right way.
Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Rain lily will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition. For the Rain lily specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Rain lily produce the best possible blooms.
The Rain lily goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Rain lily will need fertilization the most. Generally, it is best to fertilize your Rain lily starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate. You want to support Rain lily growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.
The ideal fertilizer for a Rain lily is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Rain lily 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Rain lily. However, some of the best fertilizers for Rain lily come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Rain lily.
Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Rain lily, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Rain lily, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil. Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Rain lily lives.
Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Rain lily. A Rain lily, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant. Overfertilized Rain lily will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Why do I need to fertilize my Rain lily?
Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Rain lily will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition.
For the Rain lily specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Rain lily produce the best possible blooms.
Read More more
When is the best time to fertilize my Rain lily?
The Rain lily goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Rain lily will need fertilization the most.
Generally, it is best to fertilize your Rain lily starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate.
Read More more
When should I avoid fertilizing my Rain lily?
You want to support Rain lily growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.
Read More more
What type of fertilizer does my Rain lily need?
The ideal fertilizer for a Rain lily is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Rain lily 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure.
Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Rain lily. However, some of the best fertilizers for Rain lily come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Rain lily.
Read More more
How do I fertilize my Rain lily?
Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Rain lily, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Rain lily, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil.
Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Rain lily lives.
Read More more
What happens if I fertilize my Rain lily too much?
Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Rain lily. A Rain lily, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant.
Overfertilized Rain lily will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.
Read More more
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Cultivation:SunlightDetail

Sunlight

Rain lily grows best in areas with full sun. However, it will tolerate partial shade in warmer climates that experience a longer summer.
Cultivation:SunlightDetail
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How many hours of sunlight does Rain lily need to grow?
Rain lily typically needs at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If you are growing your plant outdoors, make sure to choose a spot that receives full sunlight throughout the day. If you are growing your Rain lily indoors, try to place it near a south-facing window or another location that receives plenty of sunlight. While Rain lily needs full sunlight to grow and thrive, it’s essential to avoid exposing them to direct sunlight during high temperatures, such as over 35°C(95℉) or during hot summer afternoons. If the sunlight is too intense, it can cause the leaves to become scorched or wilted. To avoid this, you can consider using sheer curtains or blinds to filter the sunlight or moving the plant to a shadier spot.
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What will happen if Rain lily doesn’t get enough sunlight?
If your Rain lily doesn't receive enough sunlight, it may struggle to grow and may become weak and leggy. The leaves may also start to turn yellow, indicating that the plant is not getting enough sunlight to produce chlorophyll. In extreme cases, the plant may even die.
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What will happen if Rain lily gets too much sunlight?
While Rain lily needs full sunlight, it’s crucial to avoid exposing it to too much direct sunlight. If the plant is exposed to intense sunlight for an extended period, it can start to show signs of sunburn, such as brown or scorched leaves. To avoid this, make sure to monitor the plant and move it to a shadier spot if necessary.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

Rain lily doesn't require pruning to thrive. If desired, you can trim back foliage after it has completely died back in the fall.
Cultivation:PruningDetail
Do I need to prune my Rain lily?
Far from damaging the plant, regular pruning will actually encourage Rain lily to produce more blooms. There are two primary forms of pruning for Rain lily. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Rain lily is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. When nature runs its course, Rain lily will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
Read More more
When is the best time to prune my Rain lily?
There are two primary forms of pruning for Rain lily. The first is deadheading, which is the gardening term for removing spent flower heads once they start to wither. This concentrates the nutrients for the other flowers and allows the plant to flower better. The final process for pruning Rain lily is the removal of yellow and diseased leaves, which increases plant ventilation and light penetration and facilitates plant growth. Since Rain lily requires two types of pruning, you’ll be trimming your plants throughout the growing season. Pinching is most effective in the early spring before the plant develops any flower buds. Removal of yellowing or diseased leaves can be done at any time during the growing season. When nature runs its course, Rain lily will bloom once, produce seed heads, and attempt to reproduce for the rest of the year. But, by consistently removing flower heads before they go to seed, you encourage the plant to continue producing more blooms for a longer flowering time. Finally, deadheading takes place as soon as the plants are producing full flower heads. Expect to take off spent blossoms from mid-summer through the first frosts of fall. When the plant starts to wilt during the full, you should cut off the wilted part above the soil as well.
Read More more
What tools should I prepare for pruning my Rain lily?
Rain lily doesn’t take much special equipment for pruning. A basic pair of scissors or garden shears should do the trick. It’s a good idea to ensure they are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden. Some gardeners avoid using tools altogether and merely pinch off the blossoms with their fingertips. That can be a faster technique, but you run a larger risk of bruising the plant stems or accidentally pulling them out of the ground completely.
Read More more
Are there any instructions for pruning my Rain lily?
Here’s an overview of pruning instructions for Rain lily based on which of the two types you’re completing. By completing these two types of pruning over the lifespan of your Rain lily, you’ll encourage them to produce bigger, better flowers for far longer than the plants would otherwise. It only takes a few minutes to complete each step of the pruning process, and you’ll reap the rewards of your efforts for weeks to come. Deadheading Deadheading is a fast, easy way to refresh your garden by removing old flowers and providing space for new ones to take their place. You can use your fingers to pop off old flower heads as soon as they look tired, although you’re less likely to damage the plant if you use shears instead. When deadheading, make sure you cut well below the flower so that you aren’t left with a long, flowerless stem sticking out in your garden bed. Instead, cut the stem to just above the point where the side stem joins the main plant. Remove yellow and diseased leaves, this increases the ventilation and light penetration of the plant and facilitates its growth. When pruning, the leaves need to be trimmed off together with the petiole. It is best to use sterilised scissors to cut them off. Note: It’s a good idea to ensure scissors or garden shears are clean before use—you can soak them for thirty minutes in a solution of one part bleach diluted in nine parts water. This reduces the risk of spreading disease lingering on contaminated equipment into your flower garden.
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Advanced Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail

Temperature

Rain lily is fairly hardy but won't survive the winter in regions where temperatures reach below 12 ℃. In colder climates, you can grow your rain lily in containers or dig the bulbs up and bring them indoors for the winter. The plant is tolerant of both dry and moist conditions, and doesn't typically require supplemental watering.
Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
What is the optimal temperature for Rain lily?
For this tropical plant to thrive, you’ll want to keep them between 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃). Each species can handle temperatures outside of this range, but keeping it within several degrees of these limits will ensure they grow to their maximum potential.
As for its extreme temperature limits, any environment below 50℉ (10℃) or above 95℉ (35℃) will begin to hinder its growth and cause various aberrations to its leaves and stems. This is especially true with low temperatures; even a light frost can cause your tropical plants to perish. Cellular death can begin to happen at a rapid pace, with some species dying in as little as 12 to 24 hours.
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Does Rain lily require different temperatures for different growing phases?
While Rain lily doesn’t require any changes in temperature to enter different growing phases, it is important to stay consistent. Wild temperature fluctuations can slow down its growth regardless of its current phase, so it's always better to keep them in a controlled environment. That optimal temperature range of 75℉ and 90℉ (25-32℃) is vital to maintain, especially staying above the lower limit. Going above 90℉(32℃) isn’t ideal, but as tropical plant it won’t suffer too much. On the other hand, going below 50℉ (10℃) (and especially 40℉/5℃) will begin to directly damage this heat-loving plant species.
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Does Rain lily need different temperatures for different seasons?
Rain lily does not need different temperatures for different growing seasons. The most important step in seasonal care is to keep the environment within the optimal temperature range. That's why it's always best to keep this plant indoors. That way, you can control the temperature no matter what the climate is like outside.
Light is also important for tropical species, with all of these plants preferring a partial side level of sun exposure. This means any light they receive needs to be dappled or filtered, with bright but indirect light being the best option when growing your plants indoors. Too much direct sunlight can negatively affect your plant’s leaves, reducing its growth potential.
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What are the temperature guidelines to keep your Rain lily healthy?
Tip #1: Don’t Leave Your Plant Near Windows in Colder Months
If you want to make sure your plant isn’t exposed to colder temperatures, you may want to keep them away from windows. In colder months like late fall and winter, even the smallest draft can leak cold air into your home through cracks in your windows. While this air usually dissipates and warms up as it travels throughout your home, any plants placed in close proximity to the window will be affected. Move your tropical plants into an area where they will still get bright but indirect light, while making sure they won’t be affected by potential drafts.
Tip #2: If You Find Dry Patches, Your Plant May Be Getting Too Much Sunlight or Heat
You may notice the leaves become white or even scorched on a sunny day. These discolorations and unusual markings usually indicate that a plant is getting too much heat or sunlight, and it may be dehydrated. Excess light and heat will dry out the soil, stopping plants from getting the moisture they need to support their cellular structure. It also slows down or stops the process of photosynthesis, further hindering growth. If ignored for too long, these dry spots can spread and eventually result in the death of your plants.
Tip #3: Avoid Frost at All Costs
Colder temperatures and frost can damage your plants by causing ice crystals or disrupt normal physiological activity. This makes it nearly impossible for water to move freely throughout plant tissue, creating a deficit of moisture in their stems and leaves. You can tell a plant has been damaged by frost if it begins to suffer from hydrosis (it will appear as though it's soaked with water.) If the problem persists, your plants may begin shriveling and turning a dark brown or black hue. After that, the plant will almost certainly die.
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What is the best way to maintain the right temperature for my Rain lily?
The best way to maintain the right temperature range for Rain lily is by keeping an eye on both the climate and humidity. You’ll want to try to keep each species in a room where you have access to climate control, keeping the heat in the temperature range best mimics its natural habitat. The humidity levels will also have a direct effect on temperature, so it's important to monitor these as well. You can artificially raise the humidity of your growing space by using a humidifier or lightly misting the leaves with water.
If you intend to grow this species outside, you may find it difficult to maintain the right balance of temperature and humidity. If temperatures begin to drop or the air becomes too dry, your best option is to find room within your home and move your plant inside. An indoor growing space will allow you to control the climate more closely, helping your plant reach its full potential.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

Rain lily tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. It can be grown in dry, sandy soil or moist, clay soil. The plant thrives in soil that has a neutral to slightly acidic pH, around 7 or slightly below is ideal. Moderately fertile soil is fine for your rain lily.
Cultivation:SoilDetail
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Rain lily is best left to spread on its own, but if you want to move it to a new area, you can easily divide the plant. After it has finished blooming, and just before it has gone dormant, is the best time to do so. Carefully dig up and separate bulbs and immediately replant them. Water them in well.

Propagation

This plant propagates in a special way, and if you want to propagate this plant quickly, using tubers is a good way. For the best results, propagate your Rain lily when it's dormant. You can also propagate plants in the early spring or during the autumn months. Since it won't need much water during these periods, it will be easier for the plant to adjust. If you propagate during the growing season, trim away about two-thirds of the leaves to reduce water needs. To safely divide and propagate your tubers, you only need a couple of tools. Make sure you have these on hand and then get started!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife or garden trowel.
  2. Space in your soil or growing medium.
  3. (possibly) sharp, sanitized scissors or shears.
Steps: Step 1: Uncover the underground root stem or tuber. Step 2: Use your tool to divide the root or tuber into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye or bud. If the tubers are relatively small, they cannot be cut to prevent the tubers from being too small for nutrition. Step 3:Plant the divided tubers into the soil. Mix organic fertilizer into the soil if its possible. Place one or two tubers in each hole, preferably at a depth of 7-15 cm. Step 4:After planting, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. This will help the tubers to germinate in time. Step 5: If necessary, cut back most of the foliage of non-dormant plants to allow stronger root growth.
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Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Planting rain lily is simple and easy. Choose an area with full sun. If you have heavy clay soil or your soil has poor fertility, it's a good idea to add some compost to your planting hole. plant your bulbs 10 to 20 cm deep with the pointed tips facing up. Those in colder climates should plant them deeper (about 20 cm) than those in warmer climates. Water well after planting.
Cultivation:PlantingDetail
care_seasonal_tips

Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

If you live in a cold climate where winter temperatures reach below 12 ℃, you'll need to dig the bulbs up and bring them in each fall. Do this carefully once the foliage has died back.
Discard any bulbs that appear unhealthy and let the others dry for 3 days in a cool, dark place. Gently brush off as much soil as you can. Store your bulbs in peat moss in a cardboard box, and place the box in a cool location.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of winter hibernating bulbs start their growing season in the early spring.

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1
It is time to divide bulbs in the garden and replant them.
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2
Check container plants to see if the roots are growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, repot the plant and divide the bulbs.
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3
Water the plant when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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4
Fertilizer with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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5
Ensure container plants are receiving several hours of sunlight during the day to encourage growth and blooming.

Even though the plant is often forced to bloom in the spring, the plant’s normal flowering time is in the early summer.

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1
Keep the soil consistently moist, watering when the top layer is beginning to dry out.
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2
Mulching around the plant will help keep the root system cool, and an application of all-purpose plant food provides necessary nutrients.
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3
Move a container plant into a partially shady area to protect it from the hot, afternoon sun.

Your plant will enter dormancy during the cooler fall.

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1
Prune away the spent flower heads, and then allow the plant to dry up before cutting it back to the bulb.
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2
Greatly cut back watering during this season, allowing the soil to dry out more to avoid overwatering or harming the dormant plant.

The plant will continue its dormancy throughout the winter.

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Avoid giving it much water, which can wake up this plant too early.
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As this plant is vulnerable to the cold, either protect the roots and bulb through covering the beds with mulch, or moving the bulb to a warmer indoor pot or garden bed to overwinter.
care_pet_and_diseases

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Rain lily based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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More About Rain Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
15 to 20 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 to 46 cm
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Common Problems

Why hasn't my rain lily flowered?

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Rain lily typically blooms after a rainfall, which is where it gets its name. It may be that your bulbs are too dry to flower, so try giving them a good watering.
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About
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FAQ
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily
Rain lily

How to Care for Rain Lily

Rain lily (Zephyranthes drummondii) is a deciduous perennial that will grow from 15 to 46 cm tall. It produces dainty white flowers that open in the evening. Blossoms last from two to four days. It is an excellent choice for a night garden. Flowers are fragrant and attract bees and butterflies.
symbolism

Symbolism

Rebirth, new beginnings and big expectations, happiness and joy
Water
Water
Every week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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Basic Care Guide

Cultivation:WaterDetail

Water

Cultivation:WaterDetail
Rain lily is very low-maintenance. It can survive moderate periods of drought without supplemental water, although the plant typically blooms after summer rainstorms. If desired, you can water your rain lily to encourage blooming.
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Water

Potted Rain lily
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Rain lily needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. When it comes time to water your Rain lily , you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided.
The Rain lily plant will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than twice per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Rain lily will contract a disease.
Ground Rain lily
If you grow your Rain lily outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established Rain lily can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
The water needs of the Rain lily can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Rain lily is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Rain lily will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Rain lily will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Rain lily more water at this time.
Overwater and underwater
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Rain lily , but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant.
Underwatering is far less common for the Rain lily , as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Rain lily have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for an Rain lily plant. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Rain lily plant grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Rain lily is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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Cultivation:FertilizerDetail

Fertilizer

Cultivation:FertilizerDetail
Your rain lily does not need to be fertilized. However, if your soil has poor fertility or is heavy clay, the plant will benefit from compost. Add this to your planting hole and spread 5 to 8 cm of compost over your plant each spring.
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Fertilizer

Although Rain lily comes from the warmer parts of the world, these plants are commonly grown as houseplants. The brilliant colored flowers of the Rain lily make them some of the most beautiful plants that you can own. However, if you wish to get the most out of your Rain lily and enjoy the greatest version of their blooms, then you must understand how to fertilize this plant correctly. Proper fertilization will help your Rain lily look great and remain healthy, and the sections below will show you how to feed this plant the right way.
Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Rain lily will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition. For the Rain lily specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Rain lily produce the best possible blooms.
The Rain lily goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Rain lily will need fertilization the most. Generally, it is best to fertilize your Rain lily starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate. You want to support Rain lily growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.
The ideal fertilizer for a Rain lily is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Rain lily 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Rain lily. However, some of the best fertilizers for Rain lily come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Rain lily.
Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Rain lily, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Rain lily, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil. Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Rain lily lives.
Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Rain lily. A Rain lily, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant. Overfertilized Rain lily will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.
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Why do I need to fertilize my Rain lily?
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Sunlight

Cultivation:SunlightDetail
Rain lily grows best in areas with full sun. However, it will tolerate partial shade in warmer climates that experience a longer summer.
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Cultivation:PruningDetail

Pruning

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Rain lily doesn't require pruning to thrive. If desired, you can trim back foliage after it has completely died back in the fall.
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Advanced Care Guide

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Temperature

Cultivation:WaterAndHardinessDetail
Rain lily is fairly hardy but won't survive the winter in regions where temperatures reach below 12 ℃. In colder climates, you can grow your rain lily in containers or dig the bulbs up and bring them indoors for the winter. The plant is tolerant of both dry and moist conditions, and doesn't typically require supplemental watering.
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Cultivation:SoilDetail

Soil

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Rain lily tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. It can be grown in dry, sandy soil or moist, clay soil. The plant thrives in soil that has a neutral to slightly acidic pH, around 7 or slightly below is ideal. Moderately fertile soil is fine for your rain lily.
Cultivation:PropagationDetail

Propagation

Cultivation:PlantingDetail

Planting

Cultivation:PropagationDetail
Rain lily is best left to spread on its own, but if you want to move it to a new area, you can easily divide the plant. After it has finished blooming, and just before it has gone dormant, is the best time to do so. Carefully dig up and separate bulbs and immediately replant them. Water them in well.
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Propagation

This plant propagates in a special way, and if you want to propagate this plant quickly, using tubers is a good way. For the best results, propagate your Rain lily when it's dormant. You can also propagate plants in the early spring or during the autumn months. Since it won't need much water during these periods, it will be easier for the plant to adjust. If you propagate during the growing season, trim away about two-thirds of the leaves to reduce water needs. To safely divide and propagate your tubers, you only need a couple of tools. Make sure you have these on hand and then get started!
  1. A sharp, sanitized knife or garden trowel.
  2. Space in your soil or growing medium.
  3. (possibly) sharp, sanitized scissors or shears.
Steps: Step 1: Uncover the underground root stem or tuber. Step 2: Use your tool to divide the root or tuber into sections, making sure each section has at least one eye or bud. If the tubers are relatively small, they cannot be cut to prevent the tubers from being too small for nutrition. Step 3:Plant the divided tubers into the soil. Mix organic fertilizer into the soil if its possible. Place one or two tubers in each hole, preferably at a depth of 7-15 cm. Step 4:After planting, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. This will help the tubers to germinate in time. Step 5: If necessary, cut back most of the foliage of non-dormant plants to allow stronger root growth.
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Cultivation:PlantingDetail
Planting rain lily is simple and easy. Choose an area with full sun. If you have heavy clay soil or your soil has poor fertility, it's a good idea to add some compost to your planting hole. plant your bulbs 10 to 20 cm deep with the pointed tips facing up. Those in colder climates should plant them deeper (about 20 cm) than those in warmer climates. Water well after planting.
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Seasonal Care Tips

seasonal-tip

Seasonal Precautions

If you live in a cold climate where winter temperatures reach below 12 ℃, you'll need to dig the bulbs up and bring them in each fall. Do this carefully once the foliage has died back.
Discard any bulbs that appear unhealthy and let the others dry for 3 days in a cool, dark place. Gently brush off as much soil as you can. Store your bulbs in peat moss in a cardboard box, and place the box in a cool location.
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Spring

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Summer

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Fall

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Winter

This plant and other types of winter hibernating bulbs start their growing season in the early spring.

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It is time to divide bulbs in the garden and replant them.
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Check container plants to see if the roots are growing above the soil or out of the drainage holes. If so, repot the plant and divide the bulbs.
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Water the plant when the top layer of soil begins drying out.
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Fertilizer with balanced, all-purpose plant food.
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5
Ensure container plants are receiving several hours of sunlight during the day to encourage growth and blooming.

Even though the plant is often forced to bloom in the spring, the plant’s normal flowering time is in the early summer.

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Keep the soil consistently moist, watering when the top layer is beginning to dry out.
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Mulching around the plant will help keep the root system cool, and an application of all-purpose plant food provides necessary nutrients.
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Move a container plant into a partially shady area to protect it from the hot, afternoon sun.

Your plant will enter dormancy during the cooler fall.

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Prune away the spent flower heads, and then allow the plant to dry up before cutting it back to the bulb.
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Greatly cut back watering during this season, allowing the soil to dry out more to avoid overwatering or harming the dormant plant.

The plant will continue its dormancy throughout the winter.

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Avoid giving it much water, which can wake up this plant too early.
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As this plant is vulnerable to the cold, either protect the roots and bulb through covering the beds with mulch, or moving the bulb to a warmer indoor pot or garden bed to overwinter.
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Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Rain lily based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot  Brown spot  Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry  Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Flower withering
Flower withering  Flower withering  Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Plant dried up
Plant dried up  Plant dried up  Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch  Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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Leaf scorch
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Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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More About Rain Lily

Plant Type
Plant Type
Herb
Lifespan
Lifespan
Perennial
Spread
Spread
15 to 20 cm
Bloom Time
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Flower Color
White
Pink
Plant Height
Plant Height
15 to 46 cm
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Common Problems

Why hasn't my rain lily flowered?

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Rain lily typically blooms after a rainfall, which is where it gets its name. It may be that your bulbs are too dry to flower, so try giving them a good watering.
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