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Add to My Garden Tree aeonium
Aeonium arboreum
Also known as : Irish rose, Desert pinwheel rose
Tree aeonium (Aeonium arboreum) is a succulent subshrub species endemic to the Canary Islands. Tree aeonium is often grown as an ornamental plant in gardens. Because it is subtropical, this species has to be grown under greenhouse conditions in other climates. Tree aeonium is also known as the tree houseleek and the Irish rose. It grows naturally in shade and on weathered, volcanic soils.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Tree aeonium
The tree aeonium should be watered approximately once a week or whenever the top layer of soil feels markedly dry. This species requires slightly more water than most succulents, but light watering should still be performed to avoid root rot.
The tree aeonium should be fertilized with an all-purpose succulent fertilizer. This fertilizer should be diluted by half before application to the soil. A water-soluble fertilizer is ideal for this species. This plant is considered a light feeder, so monthly fertilization will suffice.
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Sand, Loam, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Plant in pots when roots grow 2 to 3 cm long; repot once every 1-2 years.
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Tree aeonium
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Mid fall, Late fall, Early winter, Late winter
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Tree aeonium
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Mid fall, Late fall, Early winter, Late winter
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Tree aeonium
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Mid fall, Late fall, Early winter, Late winter
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Questions About Tree aeonium
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Tree aeonium?
The proper way to water Tree aeonium requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Tree aeonium will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Tree aeonium too much or too little?
An overwatered Tree aeonium is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Tree aeonium to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Tree aeonium shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Tree aeonium in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Tree aeonium?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Tree aeonium are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Tree aeonium to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Tree aeonium need?
Overall, Tree aeonium does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Tree aeonium enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Tree aeonium, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Tree aeonium through the seasons?
As mentioned, Tree aeonium needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Tree aeoniums begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Tree aeonium at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Tree aeonium will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Tree aeonium prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Tree aeonium may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Tree aeoniums can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Tree aeonium may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Tree aeonium indoors and outdoors?
Growing Tree aeoniums outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Tree aeonium will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Tree aeoniums at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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More About How-Tos
Explore 6 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
Southwest
The tree aeonium is thought to evoke positive energy and growth, making it a desirable addition to one's space. When placed in the Southwest direction, it may enhance love and relationship luck due to its lush foliage symbolizing strong connections. However, individual experiences may vary, so trusting one's instincts is encouraged.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Tree aeonium originates from the Canary Islands, Madeira, and North Africa. In its native environment, it typically grows in areas with mild, Mediterranean climates, characterized by dry summers and wet winters. These conditions indicate that tree aeonium prefers infrequent, deep watering. It is essential to allow the soil to dry out between waterings to prevent overwatering, as the plant is adapted to periods of drought. Providing well-draining soil and watering sparingly can help mimic its natural habitat and meet its watering needs.
Lighting
Full sun
Tree aeonium thrives in environments that mimic its origin, where it was exposed to abundant sun. It can also endure periods of less intense sun, though this might slow its development. Not receiving sufficient sunlight may stress the plant, impairing its growth and health, while overly harsh daylight can be detrimental, potentially scorching the leaves.
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Tree aeonium prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100℉ (20 to 38℃). It is native to environments with warm temperatures and mild winters. During the summer, it can tolerate higher temperatures, but during the cooler months, it is best to keep it above 50℉ (10℃) to avoid damage to the foliage.
Transplant
2-3 feet
For tree aeonium, it's ideal to transplant during mid to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons provide the optimal temperature and moisture conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sun exposure. Remember, a gentle touch is key while handling tree aeonium during transplanting.
Overwinter
20 ℃
Tree aeonium hails from the sunny Canary Islands, naturally adapting to winter by entering semi-dormancy, enhancing water preservation. For gardeners, winter care of tree aeonium revolves around limiting watering and maintaining a stable, warm indoor environment. Excessive cold and moisture can harm tree aeonium, so consider its innate warmth-loving nature. The adaptation to the sunny native habitat drives its winter care needs.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Tree aeonium based on 10 million real cases
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Rockeries, bluffs, dunes
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Shrub
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Spring, Mid winter, Late winter
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Aeonium black rose
Aeonium arboreum is a succulent plant. Its overall shape looks like a petrified rose and its succulent leaves are often purplish-black, so it is called the aeonium black rose.
Tree aenium
This plant has well-developed aerial stems making the whole plant look like a shrub. Thus, it is called tree aenium.
Irish rose||Purple rose
Their lotus-shaped succulent leaves sprout on branches like blooming flowers. Hence, they are also called Irish rose and purplerose.
Symbolism
Elegance, versatility
Usages
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify air and absorb formaldehyde.
Garden Use
With a shrub-like growth that produces showy, intriguingly appealing rosettes that are brightly colored, the tree aeonium is a popular choice for Mediterranean, succulent, and rock gardens. Its upright growth pattern makes it a beautiful accent plant that can be used as a pleasing contrast to low-growing succulents like echevarias, and it also looks good next to crassulas, aloes, and agaves.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Family
Stonecrop Genus
Tree houseleeks Species
Tree aeonium 
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Add to My Garden Tree aeonium
Aeonium arboreum
Also known as: Irish rose, Desert pinwheel rose
Tree aeonium (Aeonium arboreum) is a succulent subshrub species endemic to the Canary Islands. Tree aeonium is often grown as an ornamental plant in gardens. Because it is subtropical, this species has to be grown under greenhouse conditions in other climates. Tree aeonium is also known as the tree houseleek and the Irish rose. It grows naturally in shade and on weathered, volcanic soils.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Tree aeonium
Water
The tree aeonium should be watered approximately once a week or whenever the top layer of soil feels markedly dry. This species requires slightly more water than most succulents, but light watering should still be performed to avoid root rot.
Fertilization
The tree aeonium should be fertilized with an all-purpose succulent fertilizer. This fertilizer should be diluted by half before application to the soil. A water-soluble fertilizer is ideal for this species. This plant is considered a light feeder, so monthly fertilization will suffice.
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Plant in pots when roots grow 2 to 3 cm long; repot once every 1-2 years.
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Questions About Tree aeonium
Watering Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Tree aeonium?
What should I do if I water my Tree aeonium too much or too little?
How often should I water my Tree aeonium?
How much water does my Tree aeonium need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Tree aeonium enough?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Tree aeonium based on 10 million real cases
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Solutions: Some steps to take to address black spot include: Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves. Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash. Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil. Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Black spot
Infection by the black spot pathogen causes black spots or patches to appear on leaves.
Overview
Black spot is a fungus that largely attacks leaves on a variety of ornamental plants, leaving them covered in dark spots ringed with yellow, and eventually killing them. The fungus is often simply unsightly, but if it infects the whole plant it can interfere with photosynthesis by killing too many leaves. Because of this, it is important to be aware of the best methods for preventing and treating this diseases should it occur in the garden.
Symptom Analysis
Here are a few of the most common symptoms of black spot:
- The plant has developed small black spots along the leaves.
- These spots be small, circular, and clustered together, or they may have a splotchy appearance and take up large portions of the leaves.
- The fungus may also affect plant canes, where lesions start purple and then turn black.
- The plant may suffer premature leaf drop.
Though most forms of black spot fungus pose little risk to a plant's overall health, many gardeners find them unsightly. Severe cases can also weaken a plant, so it becomes more susceptible to other pathogens and diseases.
Disease Cause
Black spot is spread by various types of fungi, which differ slightly depending on whether they are in their sexual or asexual stages.
The fungal spores linger over the winter in fallen leaves and lesions on canes. In the spring, the spores are splashed up onto the leaves, causing infection within seven hours of moisture and when temperatures range between 24 to 29 ℃ with a high relative humidity.
In just two weeks, thousands of additional spores are produced, making it easy for the disease to infect nearby healthy plants as well.
There are several factors that could make a plant more likely to suffer a black spot infection. Here are some of the most common:
- Exposure to infected plants or mulch (the fungus overwinters on dead leaves)
- Weakening from physical damage, pest infestation or other infections.
- Increased periods of wet, humid, warm weather – or exposure to overhead watering
- Plants growing too close together
Solutions
Some steps to take to address black spot include:
- Prune away any infected leaves, cleaning the pruners between plants with a 10% bleach solution so that the fungus does not spread to healthy leaves.
- Don't compost pruned plant parts as the spores can linger in the soil for a long period of time - instead, dispose of them in the trash.
- Use an approved fungicide such as Trifloxystrobin, Chlorothalonil, Maneb, or Myclobutanil.
- Use a spreader in the fungicide spray to ensure better coverage.
Prevention
Here are a few tips to prevent black spot outbreaks.
- Purchase resistant varieties: Invest in fungus-resistant plant varieties to reduce the chances for black spot diseases.
- Remove infected plant debris: Fungi can overwinter in contaminated plant debris, so remove all fallen leaves from infected plants as soon as possible.
- Rake and discard fallen leaves in the fall.
- Prune regularly.
- Water carefully: Fungal diseases spread when plants stay in moist conditions and when water droplets splash contaminated soil on plant leaves. Control these factors by only watering infected plants when the top few inches of soil are dry, and by watering at soil level to reduce splashback. Adding a layer of mulch to the soil will also reduce splashing.
- Grow plants in an open, sunny locations so the foliage dries quickly.
- Follow spacing guidelines when planting and avoid natural windbreaks for good air circulation.
- Use chemical control: Regular doses of a fungicide, especially in the spring, can stop an outbreak before it begins.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Rockeries, bluffs, dunes
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Shrub
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Spring, Mid winter, Late winter
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Aeonium black rose
Aeonium arboreum is a succulent plant. Its overall shape looks like a petrified rose and its succulent leaves are often purplish-black, so it is called the aeonium black rose.
Tree aenium
This plant has well-developed aerial stems making the whole plant look like a shrub. Thus, it is called tree aenium.
Irish rose||Purple rose
Their lotus-shaped succulent leaves sprout on branches like blooming flowers. Hence, they are also called Irish rose and purplerose.
Symbolism
Elegance, versatility
Usages
Environmental Protection Value
It can purify air and absorb formaldehyde.
Garden Use
With a shrub-like growth that produces showy, intriguingly appealing rosettes that are brightly colored, the tree aeonium is a popular choice for Mediterranean, succulent, and rock gardens. Its upright growth pattern makes it a beautiful accent plant that can be used as a pleasing contrast to low-growing succulents like echevarias, and it also looks good next to crassulas, aloes, and agaves.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Family
Stonecrop Genus
Tree houseleeks Species
Tree aeonium 
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Water
Tree Aeonium Watering Instructions
Tree aeonium originates from the Canary Islands, Madeira, and North Africa. In its native environment, it typically grows in areas with mild, Mediterranean climates, characterized by dry summers and wet winters. These conditions indicate that tree aeonium prefers infrequent, deep watering. It is essential to allow the soil to dry out between waterings to prevent overwatering, as the plant is adapted to periods of drought. Providing well-draining soil and watering sparingly can help mimic its natural habitat and meet its watering needs.
When Should I Water My Tree Aeonium?
Introduction
Proper and timely watering plays a crucial role in maintaining the overall health and development of the tree aeonium. It contributes to its optimal growth, vibrant foliage, and resistance against diseases. Therefore, understanding the appropriate signals indicating when the plant should be watered is essential.
Soil Moisture
The moisture level of the soil is a reliable sign for watering the tree aeonium. Insert a finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If the soil feels dry or slightly damp, it is an indication that the tree aeonium needs watering. Avoid watering if the soil feels consistently wet or waterlogged.
Leaf Condition
Monitoring the condition of the leaves can provide insights into the water requirements of the tree aeonium. If the leaves appear wilted, limp, or drooping, it may indicate that the plant is under-watered. Additionally, if the leaves start to lose their vibrancy, fade in color, or turn yellow, it could be a sign of insufficient water.
Leaf Texture
Gently touch or squeeze the leaves of the tree aeonium. If the leaves feel crispy, papery, or dry, it suggests that the plant requires watering. Healthy leaves should feel turgid and firm to the touch.
Leaf Drop
Excessive leaf drop or shedding can be an indication of water stress in the tree aeonium. If you notice a significant increase in leaf loss, it may be a sign that the plant is not receiving adequate water.
Time Since Last Watering
Keep track of the time interval since the last watering. Tree aeonium typically requires watering when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil has dried out. If it has been a few days or longer since the last watering, it is advisable to check the moisture level of the soil and consider watering if necessary.
Root Growth
Inspect the plant's roots for signs of active growth. If the roots appear dry, brittle, or lack new growth, it may indicate that the tree aeonium needs water. Healthy roots are typically plump, flexible, and have white or light-colored tips.
Temperature and Humidity
The tree aeonium has higher water requirements during warm temperatures and low humidity. If the weather conditions are hot, dry, or persistently sunny, the plant may need more frequent watering.
Early Watering Risks
Watering tree aeonium too early, when the soil is still moist, could risk root rot, fungus infestation, and other root diseases due to over-watering.
Late Watering Risks
Watering tree aeonium too late, when it has been excessively dry for an extended period, could risk temporary wilting and might stunt the plant's growth. In extreme conditions, it can lead to plant death due to dehydration.
Conclusion
Understanding and recognizing these indicators is vital for effectively managing the watering schedule for the tree aeonium. By providing adequate water at the right time, you can optimize the plant's health, promote growth, and prolong its lifespan.
How Should I Water My Tree Aeonium?
Watering Requirements
Tree aeonium has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration. It is a succulent plant that is native to the Canary Islands and is adapted to withstand drought conditions. As a result, it is important to avoid overwatering and ensure the soil is well-drained.
Watering Technique
One effective technique for watering tree aeonium is the 'soak and dry' method. This involves thoroughly saturating the soil until water drains out of the bottom of the pot and then allowing the soil to dry out completely before watering again. This mimics the plant's natural environment and helps prevent root rot.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is advisable to select one with a long and narrow spout. This allows for precise watering directly at the base of the plant without wetting the foliage excessively. By avoiding water on the leaves, the risk of fungal diseases is minimized.
Additional Equipment
While not necessary, using a moisture meter can be beneficial for determining the moisture level of the soil before watering. This helps prevent overwatering and ensures the plant receives the appropriate amount of hydration.
Areas to Focus On
When watering tree aeonium, it is important to focus on thoroughly wetting the soil and allowing any excess water to drain out completely. Pay attention to the root zone and avoid wetting the foliage excessively. Watering the leaves can increase the risk of rot and make the plant more susceptible to pests.
Avoid
Avoid overwatering tree aeonium. It is better to underwater than to overwater, as succulents are more tolerant of drought than excess moisture. Additionally, avoid allowing the plant to sit in standing water, as this can lead to root rot.
How Much Water Does Tree Aeonium Really Need?
Introduction
Tree aeonium is a succulent native to the Canary Islands. In its natural habitat, it thrives in dry, rocky ground with shallow and rocky soils where its roots can absorb water immediately without staying in consistently wet conditions.
Water Quantity
The optimal water quantity for a tree aeonium depends largely on the size of the plant and its pot. As a succulent, tree aeonium does not require a lot of water. In general, a thorough soaking that saturates the soil without pooling on the surface or at the pot bottom is ideal. Pot size and depth are critical factors. A pot with a diameter of 10 inches or less will require less water, whereas pots above this diameter will require a greater volume to reach necessary depth.
Watering Indicators
A tree aeonium has received the correct amount of water when its soil is damp, but not soggy. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is visible as wilting, brown leaves. Under-watering can cause the leaves to shrivel or appear dry, dull, and wrinkled.
Root Depth
Tree aeonium's roots have moderate depth relative to the plant size, hence, the water needs to cover the entire root zone to avoid causing dehydration stress to the plant.
Risks
Over-watering tree aeonium causes root rot, which if not treated can kill the plant. Under-watering can cause the plant to dehydrate, stunt its growth and even lead to plant death. Both conditions are avoidable by closely monitoring the plant and providing the correct quantity of water.
How Often Should I Water Tree Aeonium?
Every 3 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. What Kind of Water is Best for Tree Aeonium?
Water Type Guide for tree aeonium
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - tree aeonium prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Rainwater: Best suited for tree aeonium as it is natural, free of chemicals, and has a balanced pH level.
Distilled Water: Suitable for tree aeonium as it is free of minerals and impurities.
Filtered Water: A suitable alternative to rainwater, as long as it removes any harmful contaminants.
Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available. However, it may contain chlorine, fluoride, and other chemicals that can be harmful to the plant.
Chlorine Sensitivity
High - tree aeonium is sensitive to chlorine in tap water, which can cause leaf burn and overall stress to the plant.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Moderate - tree aeonium might be sensitive to fluoride in tap water, which can cause leaf discoloration and growth problems.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: It is recommended to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours before using it on tree aeonium. This allows the chlorine to evaporate and makes it safer for the plant.
Filtration: Using a water filter that removes chlorine, fluoride, and other contaminants can be beneficial for tree aeonium.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - tree aeonium generally prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Tree Aeonium's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water tree aeonium in Spring?
Spring is a pivotal growth period for tree aeonium. This is when new leaves bud, and the plant begins to store water for the drier months ahead. As such, your tree aeonium will require regular watering. However, be cautious not to water-log the soil as this could risk root rot. Aim for evenly moist soil and ensure good drainage.
How to Water tree aeonium in Summer?
When summer arrives, the tree aeonium will be actively growing, using the stored water. Consequently, this plant will require less frequent watering even though temperatures are higher. Monitor the top layers of soil for dryness and only water when they appear to be drying out. This is to prevent overwatering which can lead to decay of the plant.
How to Water tree aeonium in Autumn?
Tree aeonium's growth begins to slow down in the fall as daylight time diminishes. As such, the plant will not require as much water as in spring or summer. Only water when the top inch of soil has dried out completely. Additionally, begin preparing the plant for winter by acclimatizing it to decreased watering schedules.
How to Water tree aeonium in Winter?
During the winter months, the tree aeonium lies dormant so its water requirements are at their lowest. It is essential to reduce watering significantly during this period to avoid root rot, a common winter occurrence due to decreased evaporation. Be particularly mindful of the plant's environment - if it is exposed to winter sunlight, it may require slightly more water.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Tree Aeonium Watering Routine?
Watering Tools:
Using a watering can with a narrow spout can help direct water to the base of the plant, avoiding wet leaves and potential rot.
Morning Watering:
Watering tree aeonium in the morning allows the foliage to dry off during the day, which reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
Soil Moisture Test:
Digging a few inches into the soil can provide a more accurate assessment of the moisture level. If the soil feels dry at this depth, it's time to water.
Avoid Over-watering:
Over-watering can lead to root rot in tree aeonium. It's best to wait until the top inch of soil has dried out before watering again.
Signs of Thirst:
When tree aeonium is thirsty, its leaves will start to wrinkle or become soft. This is a clear indicator that watering is needed.
Rain Adjustments:
During extended rain periods, adjust the watering frequency to prevent waterlogged soil. Decrease the frequency or skip watering if the soil is already saturated.
Heatwave Adjustments:
During a heatwave, tree aeonium may require more frequent watering due to increased evaporation rates. Monitor the soil moisture closely and water when necessary.
Stress Watering:
If tree aeonium shows signs of stress, like wilting or yellowing leaves, it may need extra water. Provide deep, thorough watering to help the plant recover.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Tree Aeonium
Overview of Hydroponics
Tree aeonium is a plant that can be grown hydroponically, which means it can be grown without soil using a water-based nutrient solution. Hydroponics is a method of growing plants that offers various benefits, including efficient use of water and nutrients, faster growth rates, and the ability to control environmental conditions more precisely.
Best Hydroponic System
The deep water culture (DWC) system is well-suited for tree aeonium. In this system, the plant's roots are submerged in a nutrient-rich water solution while being oxygenated by an air pump. DWC ensures ample oxygen supply for the roots and allows for the easy monitoring and adjustment of nutrient levels.
Nutrient Solution Requirements
For optimal growth, tree aeonium prefers a balanced nutrient solution with an EC (electrical conductivity) level of 1.2-1.8 and a pH range of 5.8-6.2. It's important to regularly monitor and adjust the nutrient solution to maintain these levels. Changing the nutrient solution every 2-3 weeks is recommended.
Challenges and Common Issues
When growing tree aeonium hydroponically, root rot can be a common issue. It is crucial to maintain proper oxygenation in the root zone and avoid overwatering. Nutrient imbalances can also occur if the nutrient solution is not properly balanced. Additionally, tree aeonium requires adequate light for photosynthesis, so providing sufficient artificial or natural light is essential.
Monitoring Plant Health
Regularly monitor tree aeonium for signs of stress, such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth. Since hydroponic plants have different symptoms compared to soil-grown plants, it's important to be familiar with tree aeonium's specific signs of nutrient deficiencies or imbalances, such as interveinal chlorosis or leaf tip burn.
Regularly monitor tree aeonium for signs of stress, such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth.
Adjusting Hydroponic Environment
As tree aeonium grows, adjust the hydroponic environment accordingly. Increase the nutrient solution concentration as the plant matures, and adjust the lighting intensity and duration based on the plant's growth stage. It's important to provide the right conditions to support healthy growth.
Nutrient Solution
Tree aeonium prefers a balanced nutrient solution with an EC level of 1.2-1.8 and a pH range of 5.8-6.2 for optimal growth.
Hydroponic System
The deep water culture (DWC) system is recommended for growing tree aeonium hydroponically.
Challenges
Common challenges when growing tree aeonium hydroponically include root rot, nutrient imbalances, and light requirements.
Adjusting Environment
Adjust the hydroponic environment as tree aeonium grows, including nutrient solution concentration and lighting intensity.
Nutrient Change Frequency
Change the nutrient solution every 2-3 weeks for optimal growth.
Light Requirements
Tree aeonium requires adequate light for photosynthesis. Provide artificial or natural light as needed.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Tree aeonium, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Tree aeonium, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Tree Aeonium
Why are the leaves of my tree aeonium turning yellow?
This is typically a sign of overwatering. Tree aeonium prefers dry conditions and doesn't need a lot of water. Reduce the frequency of watering, ensuring the soil completely dries out between watering sessions. This will help to prevent root rot and the yellowing of leaves.
My tree aeonium's leaves are shriveling up, what could be the problem?
This behavior commonly points towards underwatering. While tree aeonium is a drought-tolerant plant, it still requires water to flourish. Water your plant generously, then allow the soil to thoroughly dry before watering again. If your ambient humidity is low, consider misting the leaves in addition to watering the soil.
Why is my tree aeonium losing leaves?
Leaf loss is often a symptom of water stress, either from too much or too little water. Make sure you're watering your tree aeonium properly — not too much (which can cause root rot) or too little (which can cause dehydration). The soil should be completely dry before you water the plant again.
Why are the tips of my tree aeonium leaves turning brown?
Brown leaf tips on your tree aeonium can be an indication of overwatering or poor drainage resulting in waterlogged soil. Make sure your plant's container has sufficient drainage and that you are not overwatering. Adjust your watering schedule appropriate to the season and current weather conditions.
My tree aeonium appears to be wilting, what could be wrong?
A wilting tree aeonium can be a result of overwatering. This plant prefers soil that dries out completely between watering. Adjust your watering schedule, making sure the soil is completely dry before the next watering. If overwatering continues, the plant may develop root rot and die.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Tree aeonium thrives in environments that mimic its origin, where it was exposed to abundant sun. It can also endure periods of less intense sun, though this might slow its development. Not receiving sufficient sunlight may stress the plant, impairing its growth and health, while overly harsh daylight can be detrimental, potentially scorching the leaves.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Tree aeonium is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your tree aeonium may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Slower or no new growth
Tree aeonium enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Tree aeonium require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Tree aeonium prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100℉ (20 to 38℃). It is native to environments with warm temperatures and mild winters. During the summer, it can tolerate higher temperatures, but during the cooler months, it is best to keep it above 50℉ (10℃) to avoid damage to the foliage.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Tree aeonium, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Tree aeonium is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
High Temperature
During summer, Tree aeonium should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Tree Aeonium?
For tree aeonium, it's ideal to transplant during mid to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons provide the optimal temperature and moisture conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and partial to full sun exposure. Remember, a gentle touch is key while handling tree aeonium during transplanting.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Tree Aeonium?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Tree Aeonium?
The ideal season for transplanting tree aeonium is mid-spring to late spring, or mid-fall to late fall. During these periods, the mild temperatures and stable soil conditions promote healthy root establishment. Transplanting tree aeonium in these seasons ensures strong growth and a thriving plant.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Tree Aeonium Plants?
When transplanting tree aeonium, make sure to give each plant enough space by placing them about 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) apart from each other. This will provide enough room for their growth, while keeping your garden looking tidy.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Tree Aeonium Transplanting?
For transplanting tree aeonium, prepare well-draining soil with a mix of sand and potting mix. You can use a cactus or succulent mix as a base. Add some slow-release fertilizer to give your plants the nutrients they need to flourish.
Where Should You Relocate Your Tree Aeonium?
Choose a location that receives full sun or partial shade for your tree aeonium. They are sun-loving plants and require at least 6 hours of sunlight daily to thrive. Avoid areas with excessive heat and protect them from strong, hot winds.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Tree Aeonium?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Spade
To dig around the plant and gently lift it out of the ground or pot.
Trowel
To create a hole in the new location for the tree aeonium plant.
Pruner or Scissors
To trim any damaged or unhealthy roots.
Watering Can or Garden Hose
For watering the plant during the transplant process.
Stakes and String (optional)
To support the tree aeonium plant if it's larger or has weak stems.
Organic Compost or Well-Rotted Manure
To promote strong root development and improve soil quality.
How Do You Remove Tree Aeonium from the Soil?
Step1 Preparing the New Location
In the new planting area, prepare the soil by mixing in organic compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil quality.
Step2 Digging a Hole
Use a trowel to dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the tree aeonium plant's root ball, and at the same depth as the plant was growing in its original location.
Step3 Preparing the Plant
Gently remove any damaged or unhealthy roots from the tree aeonium plant using a pruner or scissors.
Step4 Planting
Place the tree aeonium plant in the hole and backfill with soil, ensuring the plant is at the same depth as it was previously. Gently firm the soil around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets.
Step5 Watering
Water the tree aeonium plant thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil and provide needed moisture.
Step6 Support (optional)
If the tree aeonium plant is larger or has weak stems, use stakes and string to support it until it becomes established.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Tree Aeonium
Step1 Preparing the New Location
In the new planting area, prepare the soil by mixing in organic compost or well-rotted manure to improve the soil quality.
Step2 Digging a Hole
Use a trowel to dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the tree aeonium plant's root ball, and at the same depth as the plant was growing in its original location.
Step3 Preparing the Plant
Gently remove any damaged or unhealthy roots from the tree aeonium plant using a pruner or scissors.
Step4 Planting
Place the tree aeonium plant in the hole and backfill with soil, ensuring the plant is at the same depth as it was previously. Gently firm the soil around the base of the plant to eliminate air pockets.
Step5 Watering
Water the tree aeonium plant thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil and provide needed moisture.
Step6 Support (optional)
If the tree aeonium plant is larger or has weak stems, use stakes and string to support it until it becomes established.
How Do You Care For Tree Aeonium After Transplanting?
Watering
Ensure the soil around the tree aeonium plant stays consistently moist but not soggy for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning
Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased foliage from the tree aeonium plant after transplanting to encourage new growth.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the tree aeonium plant for any signs of distress, such as wilting, yellowing leaves, or stunted growth, and address any issues as needed.
Pest Control
Check the tree aeonium plant regularly for any possible pest infestations and treat them promptly to prevent damage to the plant.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Tree Aeonium Transplantation.
When should I transplant my tree aeonium?
Transplant your tree aeonium during mid to late spring or mid to late fall for the best results.
What is the ideal spacing for transplanting tree aeonium?
Maintain a spacing of around 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) between each plant during transplantation.
How do I prepare the soil for transplanting tree aeonium?
Use well-draining soil, and add some compost or slow-release fertilizer to enrich it.
How deep should I plant my tree aeonium when transplanting?
Plant tree aeonium at the same depth as their original pot, ensuring the roots are covered.
How should I water tree aeonium after transplanting?
Water the plant thoroughly right after transplanting, then water periodically to keep the soil moist.
Do I need to stake my tree aeonium after transplanting?
Staking is not necessary but can provide support for larger plants if needed.
How much sunlight does tree aeonium need when transplanting?
Plant tree aeonium where it can receive at least 6 hours of sunlight daily, with some afternoon shade.
What should I do if the roots of my tree aeonium are damaged while transplanting?
Trim damaged roots gently with a sterilized utility knife or pruner before transplanting.
What is the ideal container size for transplanting tree aeonium?
Choose a container 2 inches (5 cm) larger than the rootball to allow room for growth.
How do I acclimate my tree aeonium to its new location after transplanting?
Place the plant in a partially-shaded area for a few days, gradually increasing sunlight exposure.
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