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Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Anacardium occidentale
Also known as : Cashew Tree, Pomifera, Cajueiro, Cashew Apple
Planting Time
Planting Time
All year around
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Care Guide for Cashew

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Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Clay, Slightly acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 12
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Planting Time
Planting Time
All year around
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Harvest Time
Harvest Time
All year around
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Cashew
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
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All year around
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Questions About Cashew

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Cashew?
Your Cashew will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Cashew. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Cashew. However, the Cashew usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Cashew too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Cashew can rely on rain most of the time. When your Cashew is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Cashew, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Cashew from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Cashew in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Cashew, simply water this plant more frequently. Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Cashew?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Cashew is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants. For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Cashew. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Cashew . Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Cashew need?
When it comes time to water your Cashew, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Cashew by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Cashew gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes. If your Cashew is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Cashew is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Cashew a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Cashew enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Cashew, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Cashew will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Cashew will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Cashew.
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How can I water my Cashew at different growth stages?
When the Cashew is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Cashew that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Cashew can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Cashew is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Cashew through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Cashew. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Cashew will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
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What's the difference between watering my Cashew indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Cashew may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Key Facts About Cashew

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Attributes of Cashew

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Planting Time
All year around
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
All year around
Plant Height
6 m to 14 m
Spread
20 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1.2 mm
Flower Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Cashew

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Cashew

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Common issues for Cashew based on 10 million real cases
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity: Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
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Fruit Spot
plant poor
Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Fruit mold
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Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
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Fruit deformity
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Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit deformity may be caused by several different factors. Distorted growth of fruit can be quite pronounced and very different from the normal fruit that a grower would expect from the relevant plant. Common causes are inadequate or intermittent watering, poor pollination, sudden changes in temperature, insect damage while fruit is forming, or insufficient nutrients. All fruits are susceptible to this condition if their growing conditions are not met or if they are only partially pollinated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms of fruit deformity vary from fruit to fruit and also by cause, but here are some of the more common ones.
  • Cat facing. Various parts of the fruit grow more quickly than others, resulting in a scarred or crinkled appearance. This is common in grapes, pears, peaches, and tomatoes.
  • Nubby tips. The tips of the fruit are distorted or forked. Common in strawberries.
  • Defect ridging. Scar-like growth on the exterior of the plant that extends inwards to the fruit. Common on avocados.
  • Scabs. Hard brown to black leathery patches that distort fruit. Common with apples.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Several factors may contribute to fruit deformity:
  • Poor pollination: Insects pollinate fruit by spreading pollen throughout the flower's ovules (ovaries). If they miss some of these ovules, they won't fully develop. This can lead to misshapen fruit that is often pointy and wrinkled on the blossom end.
  • Watering changes: If a plant has been growing in drought conditions and then suddenly gets more water, the fruit may grow too quickly and split from the stress. Soft fruits can also split if rain falls on the fruit shortly before harvest, as the cuticle absorbs the water and bursts.
  • Temperature extremes: Excessive heat or cold can harm flowers before they have a chance to be fully fertilized, which may result in half-formed fruits. Early season frosts are a primary cause.
  • Lack of nutrients: Many nutrient deficiencies cause stunted fruit. For example, too little boron or calcium will lead to misshapen apples and strawberries.
  • Insect damage: Some insects, like tarnished plant bugs (lygus bugs), feed on young fruits and can prevent them from forming correctly.
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Distribution of Cashew

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Habitat of Cashew

Thickets, Sand dunes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Cashew

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Cashew Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Cashew thrive best in a location that is exposed to the sun for the majority of the day. The plant originates from a habitat exposed to constant, unobstructed sunlight. However, excessive exposure can lead to parched leaves, while inadequate light may stunt growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
8-10 feet
The perfect time for transplanting cashew is during its S2-S3 stage, which is simply a sweet spot between its second and third growth stage. Replant cashew in sun-bathed land for optimal growth. While transplanting, a gentle touch with the roots is key to a successful transition.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Cashew initially evolved in environments with temperatures of 68 - 100 °F (20 - 38 ℃). It prefers this range, and care should be taken to mimic these temperatures as closely as possible, especially in winter when indoor conditions can be harsh.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
East
The Feng Shui of the cashew is enigmatic, heavily steeped in the balance between yin and yang. Orienting it towards East unravels its potential as per Feng Shui, symbolising renewal and rejuvenation, mirroring the Eastern sunrise. However, the subjective nuances of Feng Shui remind us that interpretations may vary and should be applied wisely.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Cashew

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Angel's trumpet
Angel's trumpet
The flowers of angel's trumpet (Brugmansia arborea) are highly aromatic. This species grows best in moist, well-drained soil.
Bleeding-heart vine
Bleeding-heart vine
Bleeding-heart vine (Clerodendrum thomsoniae) is a bushy, evergreen vine with shiny green leaves and tropical-looking flowers. It grows well on a trellis and can grow to 4.5 m long. Clusters of rich red and white blossoms bloom year-round but most prominently in summer. It prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade.
Corn plant
Corn plant
Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) is an evergreen, slow-growing perennial shrub native to tropical Africa. Also, it is a classic houseplant, grown in Europe since the 1800s. Its glossy green foliage that resembles corn leaves grow on top of a thick cane, which is why the plant is sometimes called “false palm tree.”
Spanish shawl
Spanish shawl
Spanish shawl is a popular ornamental plant native to Mexico and Central America. It's a shade-loving plant, beloved among gardeners because of its bright pink flowers that bloom all summer long. Spanish shawl can make a good ground cover.
Moth orchid
Moth orchid
Moth orchid (Phalaenopsis amabilis) is an orchid species that is considered aesthetically pleasing and easy to grow. Moth orchid's blossoms bloom for several months and bloom multiple times if cared for properly. When kept as a houseplant, moth orchid should be watered regularly and the roots should not be allowed to dry out. This species grows well in bright, indirect sunlight.
Kapok tree
Kapok tree
Kapok tree (Ceiba pentandra) is a rain forest plant that can shoot up to as much as 61 m. It towers over every other plant in its native habitat. The trunk can get as wide as 3 m in diameter. Its nooks and crannies are hosts to a staggering array of both plant and animal species, including birds and frogs.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Related Plants
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Cashew
Anacardium occidentale
Also known as: Cashew Tree, Pomifera, Cajueiro, Cashew Apple
Planting Time
Planting Time
All year around
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Care Guide for Cashew

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Questions About Cashew

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Cashew?
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What should I do if I water my Cashew too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Cashew?
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How much water does my Cashew need?
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Cashew enough?
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How can I water my Cashew at different growth stages?
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How can I water my Cashew through the seasons?
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What's the difference between watering my Cashew indoors vs outdoors?
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More Questions People Also Ask

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Key Facts About Cashew

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Attributes of Cashew

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Planting Time
All year around
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Harvest Time
All year around
Plant Height
6 m to 14 m
Spread
20 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
1.2 mm
Flower Color
Green
Red
Yellow
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Cashew

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Common Pests & Diseases About Cashew

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Common issues for Cashew based on 10 million real cases
Fruit Spot
Fruit Spot Fruit Spot Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Solutions: Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot. Improve air circulation and drainage Fertilize as needed Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Learn More About the Fruit Spot more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
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Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity Fruit deformity Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity: Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
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Fruit Spot
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Fruit Spot
Pathogenic infections can cause spots (typically black or brown) to appear on the fruit.
Overview
Overview
If there are brown or black spots on the unripened fruits of plants, there is a good chance that fruit Spot could be to blame. This is an informal term used to describe several types of diseases that all cause these same symptoms: unattractive spots on fruits and vegetables.
There are a few different culprits behind fruit Spot, including bacterial spot, bacterial speck, and other related diseases (like early blight). Here are some symptoms and potential solutions to consider.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of fruit Spot vary depending on which type of plant is affected as well as by which specific pathogen is to blame. Just about every type of plant can be affected by fruit Spot, including tomatoes, pears, plums, onions, strawberries, celery, peaches, and more.
Here are some examples of potential symptoms:
Small Fruit Spot
Small spots are most commonly associated with bacterial speck.
  • Spots may appear on fruits as well as leaves and other aboveground areas of the plant
  • Small black specks appear on infected fruits (spots are less than 1/16” in diameter)
  • Spots are raised with distinct margins, developing into sunken pits as the fruit matures
  • Fruit tissue near the spot stays green longer than the rest of the fruit
  • Spots are dark brown to black in color, with nearby spots often growing together
Large Fruit Spot
Large spots are often seen on plants suffering from bacterial spot, early blight, and related diseases.
  • Spots are large, sometimes larger than 1.3 cm
  • Some spots may look like targets with a brown to greyish coloration
  • Older spots are black and raised with lobed borders
  • Spots are superficial only, not penetrating into the seed cavity
  • Spots may turn into sunken pits, turning into craters as they get older
  • The skin of the fruit can be cracked and produce a water-soaked border
  • Some spots may ooze a gelatinous substance
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are a few culprits behind the fruit Spot. These depend on the pathogen as well as the type of plant. Bacterial speck and bacterial spot are both common diseases that can affect tomatoes, ground cherries, and other plants.
Bacterial speck is caused by Pseudomonas syringae. First discovered in the United States in 1933, it is most common in tomatoes and nearby weeds but can affect other kinds of plants and their fruits, too. It is more prevalent in low temperatures (less than 24 ℃) and high moisture.
Bacterial spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. Vesicatoria. First discovered in Texas in 1912, this disease is more common in warm weather and conditions of high moisture.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Prune regularly - prune as a preventative measure as well as to remove any plants and plant parts affected by fruit Spot.
  • Improve air circulation and drainage
  • Fertilize as needed
  • Spray applications - there are few programs that are effective at controlling fruit Spot for home growers, but the local cooperative extension may be able to provide information regarding potential chemical treatments if the disease is severe.
Prevention
Prevention
There are several ways to prevent both types of fruit Spot from affecting yields and harvests:
  • Rotate crops - do not plant the same kind of plant in the same spot each year, instead switching out locations every two to three years
  • Use disease-free seeds and transplants - using a hot water treatment to sterilize seeds before planting can also be effective
  • Irrigate early in the day to give plants time to dry off before nightfall
  • Avoid working around plants when they are wet
  • Control weeds
  • Remove debris or plow it under at the end of the growing season
  • Fertilize with higher amounts of nitrogen and use less calcium
  • Plant resistant cultivars when available
  • Do not clip plants when transplanting
  • Dispose of affected plant parts immediately (do not compost)
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Fruit mold
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Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
Solutions
Solutions
There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken.
  1. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost.
  2. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed).
  3. Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Prevention
Prevention
There are easy, preventative steps the gardener can take to stop mold from attacking fruits and fruit-bearing plants:
  1. Rake up rotting debris when the growing season is over. Fungi can overwinter on rotting debris and reinfect plants the following season. Clear the ground beneath fruit trees and remove hanging mummified fruit.
  2. Prune off any infected branches.
  3. Burn all infected debris.
  4. Preemptively apply fungicide to susceptible plants, especially in the spring. This can help prevent infections from progressing to a stage where fruits are affected.
  5. Don't overcrowd when planting. Overcrowding will reduce air circulation, leaving plants wetter for longer and increasing the chance of infection.
  6. Use drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation. This will help keep plant surfaces free of moisture, while still ensuring roots are getting enough water. Hose-watering should be performed early in the day, with the spray directed at the base of plants.
  7. Don't over-fertilize early in the spring. Added nutrients will increase leaf size. As leaves can hold moisture and provide a surface for spores to adhere to, this can increase the chance that mold grows on the plant. Fertilizing later in the season, when fruits are ripening, means additional nutrients will be directed towards those fruits, rather than leaves.
  8. Insect prevention measures will reduce wounds on plants and decrease access points for fungal spores.
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Fruit deformity
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Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit deformity may be caused by several different factors. Distorted growth of fruit can be quite pronounced and very different from the normal fruit that a grower would expect from the relevant plant. Common causes are inadequate or intermittent watering, poor pollination, sudden changes in temperature, insect damage while fruit is forming, or insufficient nutrients. All fruits are susceptible to this condition if their growing conditions are not met or if they are only partially pollinated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms of fruit deformity vary from fruit to fruit and also by cause, but here are some of the more common ones.
  • Cat facing. Various parts of the fruit grow more quickly than others, resulting in a scarred or crinkled appearance. This is common in grapes, pears, peaches, and tomatoes.
  • Nubby tips. The tips of the fruit are distorted or forked. Common in strawberries.
  • Defect ridging. Scar-like growth on the exterior of the plant that extends inwards to the fruit. Common on avocados.
  • Scabs. Hard brown to black leathery patches that distort fruit. Common with apples.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Several factors may contribute to fruit deformity:
  • Poor pollination: Insects pollinate fruit by spreading pollen throughout the flower's ovules (ovaries). If they miss some of these ovules, they won't fully develop. This can lead to misshapen fruit that is often pointy and wrinkled on the blossom end.
  • Watering changes: If a plant has been growing in drought conditions and then suddenly gets more water, the fruit may grow too quickly and split from the stress. Soft fruits can also split if rain falls on the fruit shortly before harvest, as the cuticle absorbs the water and bursts.
  • Temperature extremes: Excessive heat or cold can harm flowers before they have a chance to be fully fertilized, which may result in half-formed fruits. Early season frosts are a primary cause.
  • Lack of nutrients: Many nutrient deficiencies cause stunted fruit. For example, too little boron or calcium will lead to misshapen apples and strawberries.
  • Insect damage: Some insects, like tarnished plant bugs (lygus bugs), feed on young fruits and can prevent them from forming correctly.
Solutions
Solutions
You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity:
  1. Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit.
  2. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
There are many steps that can be taken to prevent fruit deformity.
  • Create pollinator-friendly habitat space: Proper pollination leads to beautiful fruits and vegetables. Encourage bees and other insects by planting pollinator-friendly flowers nearby. If necessary, a gardener can pollinate flowers by hand using a small paintbrush to transfer pollen from other flowers.
  • Protect plants from early frost: When frost is in the forecast, bring flowering plants indoors or protect them with a frost cloth or a row cover.
  • Check for insect damage: As the plant's fruits first form, inspect them regularly for signs of tarnished plant bugs and other pests. Sticky traps may prevent the insects from reaching the plants, and surrounding weeds that create habitat space for pests should be removed. Don't spray insecticide if the plant still has flowers, as this might harm visiting pollinators.
  • Prevent overwatering: Squash and melons are susceptible to splitting if they get too much water right before they ripen. Ensure that fruiting plants get adequate amounts of water throughout the full growing season to prevent stress in the last few weeks.
  • Add fertilizer: Stave off nutrient deficiencies with a dose of fertilizer that contains boron at the time of planting. A slow-release fertilizer may be a good choice to provide a steady supply of nutrients.
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Distribution of Cashew

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Habitat of Cashew

Thickets, Sand dunes
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Cashew

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Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Cashew Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Cashew

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Cashew thrive best in a location that is exposed to the sun for the majority of the day. The plant originates from a habitat exposed to constant, unobstructed sunlight. However, excessive exposure can lead to parched leaves, while inadequate light may stunt growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Cashew thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Cashew may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Cashew enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Cashew thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Cashew initially evolved in environments with temperatures of 68 - 100 °F (20 - 38 ℃). It prefers this range, and care should be taken to mimic these temperatures as closely as possible, especially in winter when indoor conditions can be harsh.
Regional wintering strategies
Cashew is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Cashew indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Cashew
Cashew prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Cashew
During summer, Cashew should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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