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Add to My Garden Sand dollar cactus
Astrophytum asterias
Also known as : Sea urchin cactus
Sand dollar cactus is a popular ornamental cactus originating from Mexico and the USA. It has been a popular houseplant for almost 200 years and is available in many hybrid forms. Sadly, it is now very rare to find in the wild and is classed as ‘vulnerable’ on the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List, largely due to its collection for ornamental sale. 
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Sand dollar cactus
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Sand, Loam, Slightly acidic, Neutral, Slightly alkaline, Moderately alkaline
Flower Pots
Full sun, Partial sun
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Sand dollar cactus
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
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Sand dollar cactus
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Sand dollar cactus
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Summer, Fall
Download
Questions About Sand dollar cactus
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What's the best method to water my Sand dollar cactus?
Another tip when watering this species is to water it from the bottom. This is for the proper absorption of water to the roots, enabling it to circulate the nutrients from the soil towards its whole body. When you accidentally spill water at the top part, this can cause the development of diseases and fungi.
Use sprinklers when you have irrigation systems. Get the small sprinklers if you have Sand dollar cactused in your garden. It's best to get the revolving ones that allow you to change the water delivery patterns whenever you need them. Avoid turning on the sprinkler on windy days. Make sure to use the soak and dry method regardless if the Sand dollar cactus is in a pot or your garden. This will evenly distribute the moisture across the root systems resulting in healthier growth.
Some owners might want to get a built-in drainage system for their succulents. This is where layers of porous materials like recycled glass or hydro stones are placed beneath the soil. They will generally be a reservoir for excess water, so it's important not to pour too much water into these built-in systems.
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What should I do if I water my Sand dollar cactus too much/too little?
When you see that the Sand dollar cactus begins to turn yellow, know that this can be caused by underwatering or overwatering. When the soil is too wet, then there might be the presence of fungal infections. You should allow everything to dry, and you should not overwater.
Also, the browning and dropping symptoms indicate that your plant is getting too much moisture and water. If there's not enough water, the indication can be seen with the yellow tips that can begin to form on stems and branches.
When you're still in the process of buying the Sand dollar cactus, make sure to ask first if the soil is properly draining or sandy. When the topsoil does not properly drain, there's a chance that the plant will likely not receive enough water in the future.
Another thing is that the Sand dollar cactus tends to die when it's constantly getting overwatered and if it's receiving too much rain if planted outside. Use rainwater or distilled water whenever possible as the plants don't like many minerals in their drink.
You can see the squishy stems, drooping growth, and discolored parts that are all signs of too much moisture. It's critical to give the species time to recover and allow the pot to dry. Transfer it to a different container to avoid root rot and prevent it from dripping. If planted outside, you can also transfer it into a pot, especially in the winter, to help it recover.
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How often should I water my Sand dollar cactus?
Most of the time, you only need to water your succulents once every two to three weeks in the summer and spring. During the winter and fall, reduce the watering or avoid this as this plant tends to become dormant.
Let the soil dry completely, and it's always a good idea to lean on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. When they are in the pot, water deeply at intervals to encourage healthier soil growth.
When they are planted outdoors, never water them lightly as this will result in more shallow root growth. Wait for a few weeks and only give them a drink when the soil around them is too dry.
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How much water does my Sand dollar cactus need?
Water this succulent efficiently and make sure to cover the entire pot. Set a saucer at the bottom of the pot so the roots will get enough moisture. When you see that the soil begins to saturate, take out the saucer immediately. The holes in the pot and the amount of soil will determine the frequency and the quantity of water you should give your plant. A can of water is often more than enough for the Sand dollar cactus especially if they are planted in pots.
When you plant them in the garden or outdoors, you need to include the rainwater they receive. About an inch of rainwater is more than enough to last them for a few weeks, so refrain from watering. When they are outside, you need to water them in the morning with about a gallon of water after you see that the soil is bone dry so the sunlight can help evaporate the excess moisture.
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Why is watering my Sand dollar cactus important?
Watering the Sand dollar cactus will help transport the nutrients that it needs from the soil to the rest of the plant. Without enough moisture, the Sand dollar cactus won't remain healthy or might even become malnourished. Watering should be done when you see some signs that the plant is thirsty. When you're in doubt, you should never overwater as this can be a way to kill them.
The best way to water them is the soak and dry method. When you see that the soil becomes too dry, you should soak them in water until you see that the pot is dripping with water underneath. Then, go for weeks without watering to give the soil a chance to rest.
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Sand dollar cactus adequately?
Before you give this plant a drink, it's always a good idea to check the soil's moisture levels by poking your finger in it or using a moisture meter. This will tell you whether the soil is already too dry or if there's still moisture. It's a technique used by owners of smaller potted plants to know whether it's time to water or not.
Assess the needs of your Sand dollar cactus and know that it requires watering every two weeks during the summer. You can go as far as three weeks in the hot season before watering this, but in the fall or winter, there should not be any water at all. Allow the soil to dry between irrigations. They can be grown in greenhouses and other warm spots indoors and thrive well. When your plant is getting too much light, you can increase the watering frequency as long as you see that the soil is dry. They can also be grown outdoors, where you will need to water them less. Give it enough water once every three weeks; this should be more than enough. Don't rely alone on irrigations and sprinklers to reach their bases. Use a soaker hose that will hit the ground and spread the water. Make sure it won't hit much of the body of the plant as this can result in diseases.
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my Sand dollar cactus according to different seasons or climates?
Sand dollar cactus is very tolerant of drought. This means that you don't need to water them very often. Watering frequency should also depend on the climate where you live. In a dry environment, you can make the watering conditions adapt well to your plants' needs. When they are in their early flowering stages, you might want to increase watering to help them grow. When they are receiving enough sunlight, water only in the morning. Specifically, they can be watered once every 10 to 14 days during the summer. You can increase this frequency during times of heat waves and make sure to mist the base from time to time lightly. When it's too cold, you can cut back on watering or once every 21 to 28 days when it begins to cool down.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Sand dollar cactus?
When you've just repotted the plant, you should wait for a week before you can water your Sand dollar cactus. When it's time to water them, be generous until you see the water coming out of the potholes but don't make it a deluge. When they have already grown and received medium light, you might want to water them once every 2 to 3 weeks since they are very tolerant to drought.
In the winter, you will further need to cut back on watering. The ideal time is to water it once every 3 to 4 weeks as long as the soil does not feel too dry. Winter is their resting season, so they don't consume a lot of energy or grow at this time.
If you grow the plants outdoors, rainwater can be another excellent alternative when you want to hold back on watering. When you live in an area where you don't get much rain, water at least once every three weeks to prevent the soil from drying too much.
In humid locations, there's no need to water a lot. When keeping the Sand dollar cactus indoors, you won't have to keep the moisture high, especially if the plant does not receive too much sunlight. When there's too much moisture and not enough light, this can spell disaster for the succulents.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Sand dollar cactus in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
The Sand dollar cactus growing outdoors can thrive with rainfall, but when it’s planted in a pot, you need to be careful while Sand dollar cactus is still in the growing stage. One way to prevent overwatering is to check the top bottom inches of the soil for moisture. Once again, you need it to be dry so you can water it again. If you're unsure of the amount and the frequency, especially during the growing phase, go with underwatering and slightly increase it when you see a need. It's always a good idea to take a picture of the Sand dollar cactus and note how it looks after watering it. You can take things further by using moisture meters or hygrometers to check the air and soil moisture. These tools are available from various shops and can be valuable when you want to know the readings for humidity and water.
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Should I water my Sand dollar cactus differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Know that these plants can survive for weeks without any water. This is because they have water storage capacity that can conserve water for a long time. so it will conserve enough water to stay alive even if they are in the wild.
When they are fully grown, water them less since they can survive without water compared to when they were small. You need to give them time to get used to your climate and growing conditions before watering them. If they are indoors, keep them in indirect light and water them less frequently. Avoid using cold water during the winter and months, and you might be overwatering when the plants are located indoors. Give this a rest, especially during the winter and fall.
When they are outdoors, refrain from watering too much. They should be able to get enough humidity, moisture, and rainfall that will keep them alive. Only water when you see that their leaves are becoming droopy and yellowish. Always lean on the side of underwatering as the Sand dollar cactus is very tolerant to dry conditions. They don't like wet feet and might wilt when you water them too much.
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More Questions People Also Ask
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More About How-Tos
Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The sand dollar cactus aligns agreeably with Northeast-facing spaces, often associated with spiritual growth in Feng Shui. It's round shape, symbolizing a cycle, could invite a sense of completion or advancement in personal growth. However, its resonance with a particular space may differ according to individual perceptions.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Lighting
Full sun
Sand dollar cactus has a strong preference for abundant daylight exposure which is beneficial for its flourishing growth, resembling its native habitats. The plant can also endure a moderate level of light, although an excessive lack or oversupply of rays can stunt growth or cause sunburning respectively.
Temperature
5 43 ℃
Sand dollar cactus is originally native in environments with a temperature range of approximately 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It tends to favour this temperature range, even when cultivated in different environments. Extreme seasonal variations may necessitate adjustments to maintain this preferred temperature.
Transplant
1-2 feet
The prime season for transplanting sand dollar cactus is between late spring and early autumn (S2-S4), as this is when the plant experiences its strongest growth. Choose a sunny, well-draining location for best results. Always handle sand dollar cactus with care to avoid damaging its delicate body.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Sand dollar cactus based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Solutions: Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay. When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options: Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew) Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Overview
Tiny, bumpy growths all over the stem of a plant is a classic sign of scale insects. These sucking insects bury their mouthparts into the leaves, fruit, or bark of trees, shrubs, and other plants. Over time, scale insects can severely damage their hosts.
Scale insects are not just one species of insects but instead are a large, diverse group of more than 8,000 individual species, including soft scales (brown soft scale, cottony maple scale, European elm scale) and armored scales (oystershell scale, euonymus scale, San Jose scale). These tiny pests may be between 3 to 10 mm in length and are closely related to whiteflies and aphids.
Despite the differences in size and appearance, the one thing that all scale insects have in common is that they grow beneath a wax covering. This covering looks somewhat like the scales of a fish or a reptile - hence the name. It protects the insect from harm.
Scale insects feed on a wide variety of plants but are most common on herbaceous ornamental plants (both indoor and outdoor) as well as numerous species of shrubs and trees. Scale insects are easy to overlook, in part because they are so small and also because they do not look like actual insects. However, it is important to take action as soon as they are noticed to ensure the health of the plants.
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious symptom is the presence of groups of the insects themselves, which look much like bumpy growths on plants, generally quite small (less than the size of a coin). Scale insects tend to cluster together and appear all at once.
The insects hatch from eggs inside these scales and develop through two growth stages before becoming adults. Once mature, adult females produce eggs that they hide beneath their bodies. These ultimately hatch into tiny crawlers, which are yellow to orange, and begin feeding within just a day or two. They suck sap through their needle-like mouthparts and will excrete a substance called honeydew behind them as they eat.
Since the scale insectss are subtle in appearance, symptoms in the host plants may be the first sign that is noticed. As the insects eat all the plant's nutrients, leaves will drop prematurely, and the growth of plants becomes stunted. Dead or browned leaves might remain for a long period of time on the scale-killed branches.
Sooty mold can also appear on infested plants, growing in the honeydew that the insects leave behind. It is a black fungus that is fluffy and unattractive. The sooty mold growth causes plants to yellow, since it interferes with the process of photosynthesis.
Solutions
Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay.
When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options:
- Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale
- Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew)
- Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations
- Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
- Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants
- Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Prevention
To prevent scale insects from affecting plants, take the following steps:
- Carefully inspect plants before purchasing, checking every stem and leaf for signs of scale
- Make traps for new insects by leaving double-sided tape near stems and branches
- Ensure that plants have a good growing environment, monitoring both moisture and sunlight levels
- Introduce small parasitic wasps and other predators to the garden
- Rinse small plants when foliage becomes dusty
- Prune weak areas of a plant to eliminate potential infestation hot spots
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Rocky ground in Tamaulipan Thornscrub vegetation areas
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Symbolism
Maternal Love, Endurance, My Heart Burns with Love; Grandeur, Warmth, Enduring Love
Usages
Garden Use
Though it is a sensitive little plant that requires a lot of care, the sand dollar cactus is still sought by gardeners in desert and Mediterranean climates for its unusual looks and pretty yearly blooms. They are overwhelmingly used in containers, but could do well in a dry succulent garden or desert-themed rock garden.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Cactuses Genus
Astrophytum Species
Sand dollar cactus 
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Add to My Garden Sand dollar cactus
Astrophytum asterias
Also known as: Sea urchin cactus
Sand dollar cactus is a popular ornamental cactus originating from Mexico and the USA. It has been a popular houseplant for almost 200 years and is available in many hybrid forms. Sadly, it is now very rare to find in the wild and is classed as ‘vulnerable’ on the International Union for Conservation of Nature's Red List, largely due to its collection for ornamental sale.
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Sand dollar cactus
Water
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Fertilization
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Slightly acidic, Neutral, Slightly alkaline, Moderately alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Flower Pots
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
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Questions About Sand dollar cactus
Watering Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What's the best method to water my Sand dollar cactus?
What should I do if I water my Sand dollar cactus too much/too little?
How often should I water my Sand dollar cactus?
How much water does my Sand dollar cactus need?
Why is watering my Sand dollar cactus important?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Sand dollar cactus based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Solutions: There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering: Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost. Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Learn More ![more]()
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More ![more]()
Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Solutions: Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay. When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options: Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew) Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Learn More ![more]()
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More ![more]()
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More ![more]()
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Fruit withering
Fungal infection or normal ripening can cause the fruit to dry out.
Overview
Fruit withering is common on many tree fruits, including apples, pears, peaches, cherries, and plums, as well as fruiting shrubs. It is caused by a fungal pathogen and will result in wrinkled and desiccated fruit.
Symptom Analysis
Here are the most common symptoms in the order that they are likely to occur.
- Both leaves and blossom on the tips of branches will go brown and wither.
- Gray powdery patches will appear on infected leaves and flowers, and this will be most apparent after rain.
- Any fruit that does appear will turn wrinkled and fail to develop.
- Branch tips begin to die, progressing back to larger branches, causing general deterioration of the tree or plant.
Disease Cause
The withering is caused by one of two fungal pathogens, one called Monilina laxa and the other called M. fructigen. The spores overwinter on infected plant material and are then spread the following spring by wind, rain, or animal vectors. The problem will start to become noticeable in mid-spring, but will increase in severity as summer progresses and the fungus grows. If not addressed, the disease will intensify and spread to other plants in the vicinity.
Solutions
There are a number of appropriate solutions to control fruit withering:
- Remove any fruit as soon as it shows any signs of infection. Do not compost.
- Use a fungicide prior to leaf bud and then as per manufacturers instructions throughout the season.
Prevention
Preventative measures include:
- Ensuring adequate spacing between plants or trees.
- Staking plants that are prone to tumbling to prevent moisture or humidity build up.
- Prune correctly so that there is adequate air movement and remove any dead or diseased branches that may carry spores.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing fallen material and destroying it as soon as possible.
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
- Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
- Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
- Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
- Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
- Avoid warm temperatures
- Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
- Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Overview
Tiny, bumpy growths all over the stem of a plant is a classic sign of scale insects. These sucking insects bury their mouthparts into the leaves, fruit, or bark of trees, shrubs, and other plants. Over time, scale insects can severely damage their hosts.
Scale insects are not just one species of insects but instead are a large, diverse group of more than 8,000 individual species, including soft scales (brown soft scale, cottony maple scale, European elm scale) and armored scales (oystershell scale, euonymus scale, San Jose scale). These tiny pests may be between 3 to 10 mm in length and are closely related to whiteflies and aphids.
Despite the differences in size and appearance, the one thing that all scale insects have in common is that they grow beneath a wax covering. This covering looks somewhat like the scales of a fish or a reptile - hence the name. It protects the insect from harm.
Scale insects feed on a wide variety of plants but are most common on herbaceous ornamental plants (both indoor and outdoor) as well as numerous species of shrubs and trees. Scale insects are easy to overlook, in part because they are so small and also because they do not look like actual insects. However, it is important to take action as soon as they are noticed to ensure the health of the plants.
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious symptom is the presence of groups of the insects themselves, which look much like bumpy growths on plants, generally quite small (less than the size of a coin). Scale insects tend to cluster together and appear all at once.
The insects hatch from eggs inside these scales and develop through two growth stages before becoming adults. Once mature, adult females produce eggs that they hide beneath their bodies. These ultimately hatch into tiny crawlers, which are yellow to orange, and begin feeding within just a day or two. They suck sap through their needle-like mouthparts and will excrete a substance called honeydew behind them as they eat.
Since the scale insectss are subtle in appearance, symptoms in the host plants may be the first sign that is noticed. As the insects eat all the plant's nutrients, leaves will drop prematurely, and the growth of plants becomes stunted. Dead or browned leaves might remain for a long period of time on the scale-killed branches.
Sooty mold can also appear on infested plants, growing in the honeydew that the insects leave behind. It is a black fungus that is fluffy and unattractive. The sooty mold growth causes plants to yellow, since it interferes with the process of photosynthesis.
Solutions
Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay.
When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options:
- Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale
- Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew)
- Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations
- Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
- Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants
- Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Prevention
To prevent scale insects from affecting plants, take the following steps:
- Carefully inspect plants before purchasing, checking every stem and leaf for signs of scale
- Make traps for new insects by leaving double-sided tape near stems and branches
- Ensure that plants have a good growing environment, monitoring both moisture and sunlight levels
- Introduce small parasitic wasps and other predators to the garden
- Rinse small plants when foliage becomes dusty
- Prune weak areas of a plant to eliminate potential infestation hot spots
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
- Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
- Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
- Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
- Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
- Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
- Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
- Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
- Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
- Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
- Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
- Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
- Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
- Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
- Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Rocky ground in Tamaulipan Thornscrub vegetation areas
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub
Flower Color
Yellow
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Symbolism
Maternal Love, Endurance, My Heart Burns with Love; Grandeur, Warmth, Enduring Love
Usages
Garden Use
Though it is a sensitive little plant that requires a lot of care, the sand dollar cactus is still sought by gardeners in desert and Mediterranean climates for its unusual looks and pretty yearly blooms. They are overwhelmingly used in containers, but could do well in a dry succulent garden or desert-themed rock garden.
Scientific Classification
Phylum
Vascular plants Class
Dicotyledons Order
Pinks, cacti, and allies Family
Cactuses Genus
Astrophytum Species
Sand dollar cactus 
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Water
How Often Should I Water Sand Dollar Cactus?
Every 3 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Sand dollar cactus, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Sand dollar cactus, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Sand dollar cactus has a strong preference for abundant daylight exposure which is beneficial for its flourishing growth, resembling its native habitats. The plant can also endure a moderate level of light, although an excessive lack or oversupply of rays can stunt growth or cause sunburning respectively.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Sand dollar cactus is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Sand dollar cactus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Sand dollar cactus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Sand dollar cactus require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Sand dollar cactus is originally native in environments with a temperature range of approximately 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It tends to favour this temperature range, even when cultivated in different environments. Extreme seasonal variations may necessitate adjustments to maintain this preferred temperature.
Regional wintering strategies
Sand dollar cactus is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Sand dollar cactus grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Sand dollar cactus thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
High Temperature
During summer, Sand dollar cactus should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Sand Dollar Cactus?
The prime season for transplanting sand dollar cactus is between late spring and early autumn (S2-S4), as this is when the plant experiences its strongest growth. Choose a sunny, well-draining location for best results. Always handle sand dollar cactus with care to avoid damaging its delicate body.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Sand Dollar Cactus?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Sand Dollar Cactus?
The ultimate season to transfer sand dollar cactus is between spring and summer (S2-S4). This period ensures optimal growth as it provides ample warmth and sunlight. By transplanting sand dollar cactus in this season, it allows the plant to establish a robust root system and flourish beautifully. Remember, timing is key to ensure sand dollar cactus thrives in its new home, so it's crucial to get it just right!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Sand Dollar Cactus Plants?
When transplanting your sand dollar cactus, it's recommended to space each one about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This will provide enough room for them to grow without overcrowding each other.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Sand Dollar Cactus Transplanting?
Try using a well-drained cactus mix or sandy soil for your sand dollar cactus, enriched with a base fertilizer high in phosphorus. This will promote healthy and vigorous growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Sand Dollar Cactus?
Choose a location for your sand dollar cactus that gets plenty of sunlight. However, keep it partially shaded during the harshest midday sun to prevent sunburn. Remember, cacti love the sun, but not all day!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Sand Dollar Cactus?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and sand dollar cactus.
Trowel
For digging up the sand dollar cactus and its root ball without damaging it from its original location.
Garden Spade
For digging the new hole for transplantation of sand dollar cactus.
Pot (Optional)
If you are moving your sand dollar cactus from one pot to another, you'll need a new pot that's slightly larger than the old one.
Watering Can
To water the sand dollar cactus immediately after transplantation.
Organic Compost
To enrich the soil and provide nutrients to sand dollar cactus upon transplantation.
How Do You Remove Sand Dollar Cactus from the Soil?
Step1 Preparation
Once you've got your sand dollar cactus ready to transplant, start by digging a hole in your designated spot. This hole should be deep enough to accommodate the root ball of sand dollar cactus and its current soil without crowding.
Step2 Transplanting
Place the sand dollar cactus in the center of the hole, while making sure it’s not deeper than it was originally growing. Add some organic compost around the root ball.
Step3 Settling In
Fill in the hole with the dug-up soil. Pat the soil firmly around the base of the sand dollar cactus, but not too tight as to choke the plant.
Step4 Watering
Water the sand dollar cactus generously right after transplanting. The soil around the root ball should be wet, but not soaking. You are aiming for a moist environment for sand dollar cactus to begin developing new roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Sand Dollar Cactus
Step1 Preparation
Once you've got your sand dollar cactus ready to transplant, start by digging a hole in your designated spot. This hole should be deep enough to accommodate the root ball of sand dollar cactus and its current soil without crowding.
Step2 Transplanting
Place the sand dollar cactus in the center of the hole, while making sure it’s not deeper than it was originally growing. Add some organic compost around the root ball.
Step3 Settling In
Fill in the hole with the dug-up soil. Pat the soil firmly around the base of the sand dollar cactus, but not too tight as to choke the plant.
Step4 Watering
Water the sand dollar cactus generously right after transplanting. The soil around the root ball should be wet, but not soaking. You are aiming for a moist environment for sand dollar cactus to begin developing new roots.
How Do You Care For Sand Dollar Cactus After Transplanting?
Watering
In the first few weeks after transplantation, keep the soil around the sand dollar cactus consistently moist but never soggy. Overwatering can cause the plant to rot.
Monitoring
Watch out for signs of transplant stress such as wilting, yellowing of leaves, or slowed growth. If you notice any of these, reduce the frequency of watering and if condition doesn't improve, consider seeking advice from a local nursery or extension service.
Pest Control
Keep an eye out for any snails, slugs, or other pests that might harm sand dollar cactus. Try using natural pest control methods if you spot any.
Pruning
If any part of the sand dollar cactus plant looks dead or diseased post-transplantation, prune it off to prevent the spread to the rest of the plant. Remember to use a clean, sharp tool for pruning.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Sand Dollar Cactus Transplantation.
When's the best time to transplant my sand dollar cactus?
The optimal time to move your sand dollar cactus would be during late Spring to Autumn, ensuring the most successful transplant.
How much space should I leave between each sand dollar cactus?
Give each sand dollar cactus ample room to grow by placing them about 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) apart. This prevents overcrowding and promotes healthier growth.
What should I do if the sand dollar cactus's root system is too large or tangled?
A rootbound sand dollar cactus can be harmful. Carefully loosen the root ball with your fingers or a handheld garden tool before transplanting. Be gentle to avoid root damage.
What do I do if the leaves on my transplanted sand dollar cactus start yellowing?
Yellowing often indicates overwatering. Ensure the plant is draining well and reduce watering frequency. Remember, sand dollar cactus prefers being on the dry side, so it's okay to let the soil dry out between waterings.
I transplanted my sand dollar cactus but it seems to be wilting. What could be the problem?
Wilting can be a sign of transplant shock. Try to minimize this by maintaining consistent conditions with the plant's previous environment and avoid overwatering. It should rebound within a few weeks.
What's the best type of soil for transplanting sand dollar cactus?
Sand dollar cactus thrives in sandy or pebbly soil with excellent drainage. Mix one part of potting soil with one part of perlite or pumice to make the ideal soil mix.
Do I need to pre-water the sand dollar cactus before transplanting it?
Yes, watering a couple of days before translocation can help hydrate the plant, making it more resilient during the transplanting process. However, ensure that it's dry on moving day.
What's the best way to remove sand dollar cactus from its original pot?
Tilt the pot sideways, support the sand dollar cactus from its base, and gently coax it loose. If it's stuck, you can carefully tap the pot's edges to loosen the roots.
How deep should I plant the sand dollar cactus in the new pot?
The sand dollar cactus should sit at the same depth it was previously growing. Plant it too deep, and the stem could rot; too shallow, and the roots could dry out.
What should I do if there's fungus growth after transplanting sand dollar cactus?
Fungus can be a sign of overwatering and poor ventilation. Reduce your watering, improve airflow around the plant, and consider applying a fungicide made for cacti if growth persists.
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