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Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Auricularia auricula-judae
Also known as : Tree ear, Black wood ear, Jew's ear, Yu ear, Mo-er
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
care guide

Care Guide for Jelly ear

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Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full shade, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
5 to 9
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Jelly ear
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
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Questions About Jelly ear

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Pruning Pruning Pruning
Is pruning necessary for my Jelly ear?
Jelly ear is a kind of annual plant so it doesn't need much pruning. You only need to cut off and clean the diseased, yellow or dropped leaves and stems during its growing period. This will help your Jelly ear to stay away from pathogens infection.
Read More more
How do I prune my Jelly ear?
During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off. If the whole piece of leave is discolored or infected, you will need to cut it off completely. In other situations, you will only need to cut off the discolored or infected part on certain leaves. Jelly ear above the ground will die and dry up in the winter, and the dead plants need to be cleaned up.
Read More more
Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Jelly ear?
Jelly ear leaves are delicate, so take care not to score or bruise them. Unless the leaves are withered or heavily discolored, do not prune the leaves from the lowermost branches unless they’re damaged. They typically grow the largest, so they supply the plant with critical energy to keep it growing right. Please prevent the wounds from water after pruning until they are fully recovered. Remember always sterilize the tools before pruning. When the pruning is finished, please throw all the waste leaves and stems into the trashbins to avoid diseases and bugs.
Read More more
Are there any tips for pruning my Jelly ear?
Sterilize all the tools before pruning; unclean tools will pass pathogens to the plant through wounds; Prune on sunny days because the new cuts will be infected by pathogens if they're distained by rain or water. Throw all the waste leaves and stems into trashbins, they will easily rot and attract diseases and bugs
Read More more
When should/shouldn't I prune my Jelly ear?
Expect to prune your Jelly ear every week if it’s growing well or every two weeks if it grows slowly. It is always good to prune it on sunny days because if you prune it on rainy days, the rainwater will distain the cuts and cause the whole plant to be infected.
Read More more
What should I look for when pruning my Jelly ear in different seasons?
Because Jelly ear is an annual plant, the pruning should take place basically during the seasons that the plant grows rapidly. During the growth of the plant, yellowing, drying and spotted leaves are produced, and these spotted and discolored leaves need to be trimmed off.
Read More more
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Key Facts About Jelly ear

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Attributes of Jelly ear

Lifespan
Annual
Plant Height
0.25 inches
Spread
3 inches
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃

Scientific Classification of Jelly ear

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Common Pests & Diseases About Jelly ear

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Common issues for Jelly ear based on 10 million real cases
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Crown gall
Crown gall Crown gall
Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Slug or snails
Slug or snails Slug or snails
Slug or snails
Snails are a class of mollusks with hard shells into which their soft bodies can retract. Slugs are similar soft, fleshy mollusks but lack the shells. Both nibble at leaves and are regularly seen in wet or rainy conditions.
Solutions: If your plant has a serious problem: Choose commercial slug and snail baits. Those with iron phosphate as the active ingredient are fairly effective, killing them within a few days. These are considered safer for animals than baits containing metaldehyde. Baits should be spread out around plants at night and cleared away in the morning along with any dead pests as they can be toxic to birds and pets. If it is a less serious case, there are a number of organic approaches: Eliminate their hiding spots. It's the easiest way to control slugs and snails. Thick weeds, unused flower pots, boards, or stones are their favorite hiding spots. Hand-pick. You can also follow up with searching for them with a flashlight at night and picking them off plants. Board trap. Trap them by slightly propping up one end of a small board in your garden which will give them a place to hide (remove it and dispose of the pests during the day) Beer trap. Place a shallow dish of either beer or a mixture of 1 cup water with 1 teaspoon each active dry yeast and sugar buried up to the rim in your garden’s soil. Pests will fall in and drown.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Fruit mold
plant poor
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
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Crown gall
plant poor
Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Overview
Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.
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Slug or snails
plant poor
Slug or snails
Snails are a class of mollusks with hard shells into which their soft bodies can retract. Slugs are similar soft, fleshy mollusks but lack the shells. Both nibble at leaves and are regularly seen in wet or rainy conditions.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Slugs and snails, two closely related pests, cause a great deal of feeding damage in gardens worldwide. They have rasping mouths that tear holes in leaves and flowers and are capable of consuming small plants entirely. They favor humid conditions, which means that they are generally active at night or on cloudy and rainy days.
Solutions
Solutions
If your plant has a serious problem:
  1. Choose commercial slug and snail baits. Those with iron phosphate as the active ingredient are fairly effective, killing them within a few days. These are considered safer for animals than baits containing metaldehyde.
  2. Baits should be spread out around plants at night and cleared away in the morning along with any dead pests as they can be toxic to birds and pets.
If it is a less serious case, there are a number of organic approaches:
  1. Eliminate their hiding spots. It's the easiest way to control slugs and snails. Thick weeds, unused flower pots, boards, or stones are their favorite hiding spots.
  2. Hand-pick. You can also follow up with searching for them with a flashlight at night and picking them off plants.
  3. Board trap. Trap them by slightly propping up one end of a small board in your garden which will give them a place to hide (remove it and dispose of the pests during the day)
  4. Beer trap. Place a shallow dish of either beer or a mixture of 1 cup water with 1 teaspoon each active dry yeast and sugar buried up to the rim in your garden’s soil. Pests will fall in and drown.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent future damage, there are a number of effective non-chemical measures.
  1. Create a gritty barrier. You can use agricultural-grade diatomaceous earth, corn or wheat bran, or coffee grounds on the soil around your plant; you must replenish it after it rains.
  2. Set up a copper barrier. Snails and slugs can’t cross copper so copper tape can be made into a “fence” to protect your individual plant or seedlings.
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More Info on Jelly Ear Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full shade
Jelly ear thrive in full shade but can endure partial sun. Seasonally, outdoor specimens may require shelter if exposed to too much sun. Inadequate shading for jelly ear, especially when rooted outdoors, risks growth impairment and leaf scorch.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
2-3 feet
The prime season to transplant jelly ear is in the S2-S4 phase, otherwise known as late spring to mid-summer. This period provides optimal conditions for growth. Jelly ear thrives best in shady, cool locales. Woefully, handle jelly ear delicately to prevent damage during transplanting.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The jelly ear may add a subtle yet potent source of positive energy when placed facing North. The North is the direction of water in Feng Shui and, interestingly, the jelly-like consistency of the jelly ear corresponds to this element. Please note the varied and personal nature of Feng Shui; this suggestion might not resonate with everyone's perspective.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Jelly ear

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Common comfrey
Common comfrey
Common comfrey has been used for centuries as a medicinal herb. Its bright blue flowers attract bees and other pollinators in early summer.
Christmas orchid
Christmas orchid
Dendrobium cunninghamii is an epiphytic or lithophytic orchid herb that forms tufts up 2 mwide with wiry, cane-like stems up to 91 cmlong and 8 mm in diameter. The leaves are narrow linear, 2.5 to 5 cm long and about 3 mm wide. Up to eight flowers 2 to 2.5 cm white are borne on a short lateral flowering stem. The petals and sepals are white but some parts of the labellum are rose pink, purplish and green. The labellum has three lobes.
Cherry shrub
Cherry shrub
The cherry shrub is an understory species in monsoon forests, sandy soils, and rocky mountain slopes of Southeast Asia. It is distinctive for its bright blue flowers that grow directly from the twigs between the leaves. Birds enjoy eating the fruits.
Carpenter's square
Carpenter's square
Carpenter's square is also known as Scrophularia marilandica. It is a flowering plant native to the eastern and central parts of North America. It grows in dry woodlands. The flowers are small and not very showy, but they produce a lot of nectar that attracts hummingbirds and a wide variety of bee species.
Blue fenugreek
Blue fenugreek
Blue fenugreek is an annual herb that is often dried and used as a spice. It is also a popular ornamental often used in wildflower, rock, and gravel gardens. Its common name Blue fenugreek originates from the violet-blue color of its flowers and the fact that the taste and smell of the spice made from this plant are similar to those of common fenugreek.
Blackbrush
Blackbrush
Blackbrush (*Coleogyne ramosissima*) actually has grayish branches, but when it rains they appear black, giving this shrub its common name. You can visit parts of the Mojave Desert that feature large areas of this spiny, desert-loving plant. Blackbrush is a member of the rose family, but its general appearance and opposing leaf pairs make it stand out from the rest of its family.
Auriculariaceae
Auriculariaceae
Auriculariaceae is a taxonomic family of fungi. Most species in this group grow on dead wood but do not necessarily develop the characteristic 'mushroom' shape. Several species are cultivated for use as food, especially in China and Southeast Asia where they can be bought fresh, dried, or powdered.
Tremellaceae
Tremellaceae
Tremellaceae is a family of fungi that you could call the ultimate parasites since these are fungi that live on other fungi, which are often parasites themselves. Some are human parasites and can cause cryptococcosis, a potentially fatal infection. Many species in this family have a gelatinous, jelly-like appearance.
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Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Jelly ear
Auricularia auricula-judae
Also known as: Tree ear, Black wood ear, Jew's ear, Yu ear, Mo-er
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 9
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Care Guide for Jelly ear

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Questions About Jelly ear

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Pruning Pruning Pruning
Is pruning necessary for my Jelly ear?
more
How do I prune my Jelly ear?
more
Are there any cautions I should be careful with when pruning my Jelly ear?
more
Are there any tips for pruning my Jelly ear?
more
When should/shouldn't I prune my Jelly ear?
more
What should I look for when pruning my Jelly ear in different seasons?
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plant_info

Key Facts About Jelly ear

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Attributes of Jelly ear

Lifespan
Annual
Plant Height
0.25 inches
Spread
3 inches
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Jelly ear

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Common Pests & Diseases About Jelly ear

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Common issues for Jelly ear based on 10 million real cases
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Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Learn More About the Fruit mold more
Crown gall
Crown gall Crown gall Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Solutions: Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Learn More About the Crown gall more
Slug or snails
Slug or snails Slug or snails Slug or snails
Snails are a class of mollusks with hard shells into which their soft bodies can retract. Slugs are similar soft, fleshy mollusks but lack the shells. Both nibble at leaves and are regularly seen in wet or rainy conditions.
Solutions: If your plant has a serious problem: Choose commercial slug and snail baits. Those with iron phosphate as the active ingredient are fairly effective, killing them within a few days. These are considered safer for animals than baits containing metaldehyde. Baits should be spread out around plants at night and cleared away in the morning along with any dead pests as they can be toxic to birds and pets. If it is a less serious case, there are a number of organic approaches: Eliminate their hiding spots. It's the easiest way to control slugs and snails. Thick weeds, unused flower pots, boards, or stones are their favorite hiding spots. Hand-pick. You can also follow up with searching for them with a flashlight at night and picking them off plants. Board trap. Trap them by slightly propping up one end of a small board in your garden which will give them a place to hide (remove it and dispose of the pests during the day) Beer trap. Place a shallow dish of either beer or a mixture of 1 cup water with 1 teaspoon each active dry yeast and sugar buried up to the rim in your garden’s soil. Pests will fall in and drown.
Learn More About the Slug or snails more
close
Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Fruit mold
plant poor
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
Solutions
Solutions
There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken.
  1. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost.
  2. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed).
  3. Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Prevention
Prevention
There are easy, preventative steps the gardener can take to stop mold from attacking fruits and fruit-bearing plants:
  1. Rake up rotting debris when the growing season is over. Fungi can overwinter on rotting debris and reinfect plants the following season. Clear the ground beneath fruit trees and remove hanging mummified fruit.
  2. Prune off any infected branches.
  3. Burn all infected debris.
  4. Preemptively apply fungicide to susceptible plants, especially in the spring. This can help prevent infections from progressing to a stage where fruits are affected.
  5. Don't overcrowd when planting. Overcrowding will reduce air circulation, leaving plants wetter for longer and increasing the chance of infection.
  6. Use drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation. This will help keep plant surfaces free of moisture, while still ensuring roots are getting enough water. Hose-watering should be performed early in the day, with the spray directed at the base of plants.
  7. Don't over-fertilize early in the spring. Added nutrients will increase leaf size. As leaves can hold moisture and provide a surface for spores to adhere to, this can increase the chance that mold grows on the plant. Fertilizing later in the season, when fruits are ripening, means additional nutrients will be directed towards those fruits, rather than leaves.
  8. Insect prevention measures will reduce wounds on plants and decrease access points for fungal spores.
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Crown gall
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Crown gall
Bacterial infections can cause abnormal brown or black growths on the trunk of the tree. These are also called crown galls.
Overview
Overview
Crown gall is a bacterial disease that affects many different species of shrubs. It produces unsightly growths called galls on stems, branches, and roots. These galls stunt the growth of plants and weaken them. This is because they disrupt the flow of water and nutrients from the roots up to other areas of the plant.
Crown gall growth is generally more rapid during warm weather. There are no chemical solutions available that will kill this disease. The presence of galls does not usually cause the death of a plant, however. These galls can easily be spread to other plants through contaminated tools or soil.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Crown gall is most often seen on lower branches. This disease appears as deformed growths on stems, branches, or roots that gradually enlarge over time.
As the galls enlarge, they become hard and woody. Their appearance is usually brown and corky. The plant will show symptoms of stunted growth and there may be evidence of tip dieback.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Crown gall is caused by the bacteria Agrobacterium tumefaciens. This bacteria lives in the soil, and can survive there for many years. It is spread onto the plant by water splashing up from contaminated soil. Infected pruning tools can also spread the disease onto plants.
The bacteria enter the plant through open wounds. These could be caused by chewing insects or damage from gardening tools such as lawnmowers. Pruning cuts that have not been treated can also be infected by this bacterial disease.
Once the bacteria have entered the plant, they stimulate rapid growth in plant cells, and this is what causes the abnormal growths.
Solutions
Solutions
  1. Remove infected tissue. Established trees can survive a crown gall infection, but the galls should be removed to improve the plant's appearance. Use pruning shears to remove the gall, then treat the wound with a pruning sealer. Discard pruned material by putting it in the trash or burning it to avoid infecting other plants. Sterilize the pruning shears after removing the galls.
  2. Remove the entire plant. If a small plant is infected with a serious case of crown gall, the best option is to remove the entire plant and burn it. This will prevent bacteria from spreading to other plants.
  3. Sterilize the soil. After removing infected tissue, sterilize the soil using heat. Alternatively, plant a gall-resistant plant in the same spot.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent crown gall, avoid introducing and spreading the bacteria that causes it.
  1. Avoid infected plants. Inspect all new plants for symptoms. Dispose of any plants that show signs of crown gall.
  2. Sanitize pruning tools. Use an approved sanitizing solution to treat pruning shears both before and after use. A freshly-mixed solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water will be most effective.
  3. Avoid mounding soil around the crown of the plant, keeping this area as dry as possible. Remove dead branches and leaves to prevent the occurrence of pests and diseases.
  4. Utilize beneficial bacteria. The beneficial bacterium Agrobacterium radiobacter strain 84 can be used during planting to prevent crown gall. To use, simply dip bare-rooted plants in the solution, or water rooted plants with a solution of the aforementioned bacteria.
  5. Correct overly alkaline soils. Crown gall-causing bacteria thrive in alkaline soils, so check the pH level of the soil and reduce the alkalinity.
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Slug or snails
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Slug or snails
Snails are a class of mollusks with hard shells into which their soft bodies can retract. Slugs are similar soft, fleshy mollusks but lack the shells. Both nibble at leaves and are regularly seen in wet or rainy conditions.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Slugs and snails, two closely related pests, cause a great deal of feeding damage in gardens worldwide. They have rasping mouths that tear holes in leaves and flowers and are capable of consuming small plants entirely. They favor humid conditions, which means that they are generally active at night or on cloudy and rainy days.
Solutions
Solutions
If your plant has a serious problem:
  1. Choose commercial slug and snail baits. Those with iron phosphate as the active ingredient are fairly effective, killing them within a few days. These are considered safer for animals than baits containing metaldehyde.
  2. Baits should be spread out around plants at night and cleared away in the morning along with any dead pests as they can be toxic to birds and pets.
If it is a less serious case, there are a number of organic approaches:
  1. Eliminate their hiding spots. It's the easiest way to control slugs and snails. Thick weeds, unused flower pots, boards, or stones are their favorite hiding spots.
  2. Hand-pick. You can also follow up with searching for them with a flashlight at night and picking them off plants.
  3. Board trap. Trap them by slightly propping up one end of a small board in your garden which will give them a place to hide (remove it and dispose of the pests during the day)
  4. Beer trap. Place a shallow dish of either beer or a mixture of 1 cup water with 1 teaspoon each active dry yeast and sugar buried up to the rim in your garden’s soil. Pests will fall in and drown.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent future damage, there are a number of effective non-chemical measures.
  1. Create a gritty barrier. You can use agricultural-grade diatomaceous earth, corn or wheat bran, or coffee grounds on the soil around your plant; you must replenish it after it rains.
  2. Set up a copper barrier. Snails and slugs can’t cross copper so copper tape can be made into a “fence” to protect your individual plant or seedlings.
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More Info on Jelly Ear Growth and Care

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Lighting
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full shade
Ideal
Less than 3 hours of sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Jelly ear thrive in full shade but can endure partial sun. Seasonally, outdoor specimens may require shelter if exposed to too much sun. Inadequate shading for jelly ear, especially when rooted outdoors, risks growth impairment and leaf scorch.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
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