Search Plants
Try for Free
English
About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Weed Control
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Field mustard
Brassica rapa
Also known as : Bok choy, Napa cabbage, Bomdong
Field mustard (Brassica rapa) is a plant that is widely cultivated and produces oilseed. Canola oil is made from the field mustard oilseed. Field mustard attracts white butterflies who gain nutrients from its flowers.
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Field mustard
Feedback
Watering Care
Field mustard should be watered regularly, especially in dry months, to develop proper texture and taste during harvest. This species should be planted in moist soil, and when the top layer of soil is dry, it is appropriate to water again.
Fertilizing Care
Field mustard should be fertilized with a fertilizer that contains sulfur and nitrogen, and has a balanced ratio of both nutrients. The fertilizer should be mixed into the soil during the planting season.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Scan QR code to download
Field mustard
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
6 to 11
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Questions About Field mustard
Feedback
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Field mustard?
Not only does the Field mustard have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Field mustard is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Field mustard. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Field mustard grows is sufficiently moist.
Read More ![more]()
What should I do if I water my Field mustard too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Field mustard and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Field mustard is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
Read More ![more]()
How often should I water my Field mustard?
Overall, Field mustard requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Field mustard about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Field mustard have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
Read More ![more]()
How much water does my Field mustard need?
Since Field mustard are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Field mustard should receive. Generally, Field mustard will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
Read More ![more]()
How can I tell if i'm watering my Field mustard enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Field mustard, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Field mustard is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
Read More ![more]()
How should I water my Field mustard through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Field mustard's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Field mustard about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Field mustard has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Field mustard will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Field mustard from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Field mustard will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Field mustard will decline significantly.
Read More ![more]()
What's the difference between watering Field mustard indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Field mustard indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Field mustard that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Field mustard that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Field mustard healthy.
Read More ![more]()
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
More Questions People Also Ask
Key Facts About Field mustard
Feedback
Attributes of Field mustard
Lifespan
Annual, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Bloom Time
Spring
Harvest Time
Early spring, Late spring, Fall, Early winter
Plant Height
50 m to 1 m
Spread
40 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
4 mm to 5 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Fruit Color
Green
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Yellow
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Pollinators
Bees
Name story
Field mustard
This plant belongs to the Brassicaceae family or also known as mustards and it is also one of the most common Brassica plants in the field. Therefore, it is called field mustard.
Symbolism
Fertility, Protection, Mental powers
Usages
Garden Use
Vegetable gardeners prize field mustard for its edible leaves, buds, and stems. Despite some typical vegetable-growing challenges, it can also be used as border interest in other types of full sun to partial shade gardens. It combines well with other edible species like Peas, Beans, Carrots, Dill, and Spinach.
Scientific Classification of Field mustard
Find your perfect green friends.
Plan your green oasis based on your criteria: plant type, pet safety, skill level, sites, and more.
Common Pests & Diseases About Field mustard
Feedback
Common issues for Field mustard based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Weed Control About Field mustard
Feedback
Weeds
Field mustard grows as a weed in most of the U.S. It is cultivated as a vegetable crop, but its wild form has invaded cultivated fields as well as waste areas and along roadsides. it is an invasive species in Oceania, Mexico, South America, parts of Canada and the USA, Cuba, Chile, Peru, Nicaragua, Ecuador and Mexico. The plant's presence dries up soils and reduces yields. Roots, leaves and seeds can irritate digestive tracts of livestock, if consumed in large quantities. Seeds can survive in the soil for over fifty years, making true elimination difficult. Plants should be mowed or manually removed before seeds mature.
How to Control it
Once the weeds start to flower and fructify, it will be difficult to control them effectively. In fact, the best time to remove weeds is before flowering and fructification because the seeds will spread rapidly after that. So, it is necessary to remove weeds more often and to take precautions in advance next year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering with sawdust, straws or black mulches to effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of the seedling. Generally, this method is used in winter or spring to inhibit the germination of weed in the soil. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, this method can be used to isolate the seeds and the soil to prevent the seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Before the weeds fructify, wear gloves or use tools to pull them out. If it is difficult to pull out weed due to dry soil, adding water to the soil helps to make it easy to remove the roots thoroughly. After pulling out the weed, deep tillage can be adopted to remove the residual roots. This method is especially effective for weeds that are in the seedling stage or low growing size. Pruning: Pruning weeds before they fructify can effectively control the propagation of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can inhibit the growth and fructification of weeds and effectively them in the same year. Plowing: Before cultivation, plow the soil, collect and discard the roots of perennial weeds, then expose them to the sun or bury them deeply. It can also be used for retting organic fertilizer and composting. Chemical control: Using appropriate herbicides can effectively remove the weed from the area. Note: When removing weeds, it is necessary to wear gloves to avoid direct contact with the weeds, especially for the ones that are poisonous, thorny and allergenic. When removing weeds at the flowering stage, special masks should be worn to prevent allergic reactions caused by the inhalation of pollen.
Do you have weeds in your garden?
Differentiate them from your plants by a picture, and learn how to control them.
Distribution of Field mustard
Feedback
Habitat of Field mustard
Cultivated Beds
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Field mustard
Field mustard has a broad global presence, with native roots in regions of Europe. This plant has been introduced and is cultivated across various continents, including Asia, Africa, the Americas, and parts of Europe, indicating its versatility and adaptability to diverse climates. In certain areas, field mustard may be considered to maintain a presence that could influence local ecosystems, particularly in parts of South America and island nations within the Pacific. While field mustard is valued for agriculture, its impact on ecosystems outside its native range is observed with caution.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Field Mustard Growth and Care
Feedback
Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Water
Twice per week
Field mustard is native to regions in Europe and Asia, including parts of Russia and China. It is well-adapted to cool and temperate climates and can withstand a range of soil conditions. Due to its natural habitat in areas with moderate to high rainfall, field mustard has a preference for consistent and adequate watering. It is important to ensure that the soil remains moist, but not overly saturated, to mimic its native environment and promote healthy growth.
Watering Techniques 
Lighting
Full sun
Field mustard thrives best under ample light exposure, with open landscapes being the optimal environment. For healthier growth, the plant balances well between an overly sunlit area and partial light areas. The plant may show reduced vigor and poor flowering when subjected to insufficient light.
Best Sunlight Practices 
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Field mustard is native to climates that cater to its temperature requirements of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives in warm season, however, appropriate adjustments must be made to maintain this temperature range during cooler seasons.
Temp for Healthy Growth 
Transplant
6-12 inches
The perfect time to transplant field mustard is during the refreshing early to mid-spring season, as it favors the plant's growth. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil to get the best results. Remember to give field mustard ample space to flourish and enjoy the process!
Transplant Techniques 
Pollination
Normal
Magnificent marvels of nature, industrious bees are the primary pollinators of field mustard. These busy helpers are drawn to field mustard's vibrant colors and rich nectar, a testament to field mustard's skill for creating an irresistible pollinator attractant. The pollination process, like a well-choreographed ballet, occurs when the pollen from field mustard's male organs is transferred to its female organs, with timing often synchronized with local bee activity periods. Such intricate bonds are what make pollination in field mustard truly fascinating!
Pollination Techniques 
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Autumn
This cool-season crop thrives when pruned to promote healthy growth and maintain plant structure. Key pruning techniques for field mustard include thinning overcrowded seedlings and removing damaged or old leaves. Optimal pruning is done from early spring to late fall, aligning with its growth cycle. Pruning offers benefits such as improved air circulation and disease reduction, ensuring robust yields. Regularly inspect and trim to support its vigor.
Pruning techniques 
Propagation
Spring
Field mustard propagates readily through sowing in the Spring. Ease of propagation is generally high. Look for germination and new growth as signs of successful propagation. Ensure proper soil moisture for optimal results.
Propagation Techniques 
Feng shui direction
Southwest
Field mustard is moderately compatible in a Southwest facing position, as it may help attract prosperity and enhance interpersonal relationships. However, its placement should be considered cautiously, as Feng Shui principles are subjective, and reactions may differ across individuals and environments.
Fengshui Details Plants Related to Field mustard
Feedback
Mexican sunflower
The mexican sunflower is a perennial plant that can grow up to 3 m tall and is native to Mexico and Central Africa. You can find this flower in shades of red, yellow, and orange. The leaves and flowers are edible and can be used for garnishing.
Mango tree
Mango tree is a large tree native to the Indian subcontinent. It is most well-known for the tropical fruit it produces, and mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. Mango tree can also be used for wood after the tree’s fruit production is over. This type of wood is highly prized for making musical instruments.
Straggler daisy
The straggler daisy is a low-growing ground cover plant that tolerates shade and can withstand moderate foot traffic. The straggler daisy blooms for the entire spring, summer, and well into fall. In frost-free areas, year-round blooming is possible and the flowers of this plant are a sunny yellow color.
Life plant
Life plant is a succulent plant from Madagascar remarkable for its ability to generate small bullets on the edges of "leaves." Actually, these thick, fleshy "leaves" are not true leaves but flattened shoots instead. Life plant is easy to grow and used as a potting or hanging plant indoor.
Dog rose
The dog rose is a pale pink type of rose. The plant is known for "climbing" as it grows and can even be found climbing up different trees. References to dog rose date back at least to ancient Rome, and it is featured in many European riddles and even Shakespearian quotes as well.
Beach sheoak
Beach sheoak (Casuarina equisetifolia) is a flowering evergreen tree that is considered invasive in some areas. Beach sheoak replaces native trees and disturbs their natural habitat. Beach sheoak produces a woody fruit that attract birds. It does not grow well in cold temperatures and is intolerant to frost. This species grows well in coastal areas and tolerates salty soil.
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
View More Plants
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify grow and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Weed Control
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Field mustard
Brassica rapa
Also known as: Bok choy, Napa cabbage, Bomdong
Field mustard (Brassica rapa) is a plant that is widely cultivated and produces oilseed. Canola oil is made from the field mustard oilseed. Field mustard attracts white butterflies who gain nutrients from its flowers.
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Full sun
Care Guide for Field mustard
Feedback
Watering Care
Field mustard should be watered regularly, especially in dry months, to develop proper texture and taste during harvest. This species should be planted in moist soil, and when the top layer of soil is dry, it is appropriate to water again.
Fertilizing Care
Field mustard should be fertilized with a fertilizer that contains sulfur and nitrogen, and has a balanced ratio of both nutrients. The fertilizer should be mixed into the soil during the planting season.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Clay, Chalky, Slightly acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Repotting
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Know the light your plants really get.
Find the best spots for them to optimize their health, simply using your phone.
Download the App
Download
Questions About Field mustard
Feedback
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Field mustard?
What should I do if I water my Field mustard too much or too little?
How often should I water my Field mustard?
How much water does my Field mustard need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Field mustard enough?
How should I water my Field mustard through the seasons?
What's the difference between watering Field mustard indoors and outdoors?
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
Download the App
More Questions People Also Ask
Key Facts About Field mustard
Feedback
Attributes of Field mustard
Lifespan
Annual, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Fall, Early winter
Bloom Time
Spring
Harvest Time
Early spring, Late spring, Fall, Early winter
Plant Height
50 m to 1 m
Spread
40 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
4 mm to 5 mm
Flower Color
Yellow
Fruit Color
Green
Brown
Stem Color
Green
Yellow
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Pollinators
Bees
Gain more valuable plant knowledge
Explore a rich botanical encyclopedia for deeper insights
Download the App
Name story
Field mustard
This plant belongs to the Brassicaceae family or also known as mustards and it is also one of the most common Brassica plants in the field. Therefore, it is called field mustard.
Symbolism
Fertility, Protection, Mental powers
Usages
Garden Use
Vegetable gardeners prize field mustard for its edible leaves, buds, and stems. Despite some typical vegetable-growing challenges, it can also be used as border interest in other types of full sun to partial shade gardens. It combines well with other edible species like Peas, Beans, Carrots, Dill, and Spinach.
Scientific Classification of Field mustard
Never miss a care task again!
Plant care made easier than ever with our tailor-made smart care reminder.
Download the App
Common Pests & Diseases About Field mustard
Feedback
Common issues for Field mustard based on 10 million real cases
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles ![more]()
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Solutions: Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks. For severe cases: Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves. Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves. Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies. For less severe cases: Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Learn More About the Leaf miners ![more]()
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More About the Plant dried up ![more]()
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves. Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow. Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions. Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques. Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent. Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp. Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Learn More About the Leaf deformity ![more]()
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects ![more]()
Treat and prevent plant diseases.
AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Download the App
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
- Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
- Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
- Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
- Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
- Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
- Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
- Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
- Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Leaf miners
Leaf miners scar the leaves with curved white streaks or rounded white spots with brown centers.
Symptom Analysis
The leaves on your plants are showing clear/white trails, which appear like parts have been hollowed out. These trails are narrow at first and become wide patches over time. In some cases, leaves will be completely hollow and dry on the plant. As the name suggests, leaf miners are responsible.
Leaf miners are most common in the early spring when they begin to hatch and reproduce. They are tiny 1/16th inch larvae that resemble small grains of rice. The larvae are found inside leaves. The adult stage, a fly, lays eggs in between the layers of a leaf. When the eggs hatch, the larvae eat the tender nutritious inner leaves.
Solutions
Leaf miners, although relatively harmless at first, can quickly multiply and devastate your plants in the coming weeks.
For severe cases:
- Spray an organic insecticide. For an organic solution, spray a diluted mixture of azadirachtin, a compound derived from neem seeds, above and below leaves.
- Spray a synthetic insecticide. Spray a product that contains spinosad, such as Entrust, making sure to cover all sides of the leaves.
- Introduce beneficial insects. Introduce beneficial insects that eat leaf miners, such as parasitic wasps or Syrphid flies.
For less severe cases:
- Prune infected tissue. Remove and dispose of leaves that have any sign of leaf miner damage.
Prevention
Although leaf miners are easy to control, preventing them is ideal. Our recommendations are:
- Physically exclude adults. Cover plants with floating row covers as soon as you put them in the ground.
- Remove weeds and debris. Keep your garden weeded to lower the number of plants leaf miners can feed and breed on.
- Avoid introducing infected plants. Carefully inspect new plants for leaf miners before adding them to your garden or home.
- Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Leaf miners can usually be controlled by natural predatory insects. Do not apply broad-spectrum insecticides that could harm these beneficial insects.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Leaf deformity
Leaf deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Leaf deformity manifests in the form of curled, cupped, or distorted leaves, often first seen in the spring. There are a number of different possibilities as to the cause and it will not always be easy to isolate the problem without laboratory analysis. In the majority of cases, however, the gardener should be able to isolate the cause through close examination of the plant and the local conditions.
Symptom Analysis
The plant has developed abnormal leaves. They may look similar to leaf curl, but show other problems such as:
- stunting
- abnormal shapes
- a bumpy texture
- gaps between leaf sections
- raised growths on the top surface
Disease Cause
The causes are widespread and varied and the gardener will need to examine plants carefully as well as consider environmental factors.
Disease due to insect damage: Mites, aphids, and other insects that feast on plant leaves can leave them vulnerable to viral and bacterial disease. Some, like leaf galls and rust, produce distorted leaves. If the gardener sees insects on the plants, it is likely the insect is the culprit. Some mites are too small to see, and laboratory analysis may be required.
Herbicide exposure: Herbicides can stress plant leaves. This may lead to stunted growth and a curling, cupped appearance. Even if the plant owner didn't apply herbicides, herbicide drift and planting in contaminated soils can expose plants to these chemicals. If all plants in an area have deformed leaves, the cause is likely herbicides. Herbicide exposure is also characterized by narrow new leaves.
Less than ideal growing conditions: If plants are exposed to cold temperatures right as their leaves are coming out of the bud, they might become stunted and malformed. If deformed leaves occur right after a cold spell or frost, this is likely the cause. Too much and too little water can also cause deformed leaves. Leaves curling down but not distorting is more likely to be a watering issue than a leaf deformity.
Nutrient deficiencies: A lack of critical nutrients during the growing phase, including boron, calcium, and molybdenum, may lead plant leaves to grow stunted or disfigured. If a nutrient deficiency is to blame, the leaves will also show discoloring.
Fungal infections: a variety of fungal pathogens can distort leaves, as is the case with Peach leaf curl.
Solutions
Follow these steps to revive plants with abnormal leaves.
- Remove damaged leaves: Plants can recover from damage when given the time to do so. Remove any deformed leaves so they don't continue drawing energy from the plant. This also creates room for healthier ones to grow.
- Stop using herbicide: Though herbicide damage is challenging to diagnose, gardeners can potentially prevent deformed leaves by not using any and by strictly following manufacturers instructions.
- Spray insecticide: Prevent pests from inhabiting plant leaves by spraying with insecticide regularly and practicing good natural pest prevention techniques.
- Apply a balanced fertilizer: Solve nutrient deficiencies and excesses by using a well-balanced fertilizer (organic or conventional both work) before planting, and consider topdressing when signs of stress are apparent.
- Fix watering schedule: If plant leaves are curled downward due to too much or too little water, adjust the watering schedule so the soil is moist, but not damp.
- Remove infected plants: If the plant has succumbed to a viral infection, not much can be done to revive it. Remove and destroy all compromised plant material to prevent spread to other plants.
Prevention
- Fertilize properly. Keep your plants full of essential nutrients with a balanced fertilizer.
- Regularly monitor for pests. Remove all pests by hand or treat them with an insecticide. Early discovery and treatment will prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
- Provide the proper amount of water. Water until the soil is moist, but not damp. Only once the soil dries out, should the plant be watered again.
- Protect plants from cold. Bring plants indoors or protect them with frost cloth when bad weather is forecast.
- Avoid herbicide exposure. If the gardener or surrounding neighbors are applying herbicides, consider moving vulnerable plants to where they are less exposed to any chemicals that may be carried on the wind.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Weed Control About Field mustard
Feedback
Weeds
Field mustard grows as a weed in most of the U.S. It is cultivated as a vegetable crop, but its wild form has invaded cultivated fields as well as waste areas and along roadsides. it is an invasive species in Oceania, Mexico, South America, parts of Canada and the USA, Cuba, Chile, Peru, Nicaragua, Ecuador and Mexico. The plant's presence dries up soils and reduces yields. Roots, leaves and seeds can irritate digestive tracts of livestock, if consumed in large quantities. Seeds can survive in the soil for over fifty years, making true elimination difficult. Plants should be mowed or manually removed before seeds mature.
How to Control it
Once the weeds start to flower and fructify, it will be difficult to control them effectively. In fact, the best time to remove weeds is before flowering and fructification because the seeds will spread rapidly after that. So, it is necessary to remove weeds more often and to take precautions in advance next year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering with sawdust, straws or black mulches to effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of the seedling. Generally, this method is used in winter or spring to inhibit the germination of weed in the soil. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, this method can be used to isolate the seeds and the soil to prevent the seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Before the weeds fructify, wear gloves or use tools to pull them out. If it is difficult to pull out weed due to dry soil, adding water to the soil helps to make it easy to remove the roots thoroughly. After pulling out the weed, deep tillage can be adopted to remove the residual roots. This method is especially effective for weeds that are in the seedling stage or low growing size. Pruning: Pruning weeds before they fructify can effectively control the propagation of weeds, especially for annual weeds. Frequent pruning can inhibit the growth and fructification of weeds and effectively them in the same year. Plowing: Before cultivation, plow the soil, collect and discard the roots of perennial weeds, then expose them to the sun or bury them deeply. It can also be used for retting organic fertilizer and composting. Chemical control: Using appropriate herbicides can effectively remove the weed from the area. Note: When removing weeds, it is necessary to wear gloves to avoid direct contact with the weeds, especially for the ones that are poisonous, thorny and allergenic. When removing weeds at the flowering stage, special masks should be worn to prevent allergic reactions caused by the inhalation of pollen.
Show More ![more]()
Do you have weeds in your garden?
Differentiate them from your plants by a picture, and learn how to control them.
Download the App
Distribution of Field mustard
Feedback
Habitat of Field mustard
Cultivated Beds
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere
Distribution Map of Field mustard
Field mustard has a broad global presence, with native roots in regions of Europe. This plant has been introduced and is cultivated across various continents, including Asia, Africa, the Americas, and parts of Europe, indicating its versatility and adaptability to diverse climates. In certain areas, field mustard may be considered to maintain a presence that could influence local ecosystems, particularly in parts of South America and island nations within the Pacific. While field mustard is valued for agriculture, its impact on ecosystems outside its native range is observed with caution.
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info on Field Mustard Growth and Care
Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify grow and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Water
Field Mustard Watering Instructions
Field mustard is native to regions in Europe and Asia, including parts of Russia and China. It is well-adapted to cool and temperate climates and can withstand a range of soil conditions. Due to its natural habitat in areas with moderate to high rainfall, field mustard has a preference for consistent and adequate watering. It is important to ensure that the soil remains moist, but not overly saturated, to mimic its native environment and promote healthy growth.
When Should I Water My Field Mustard?
Importance of Timely Watering
For the optimal growth and health of field mustard, correct watering is essential. Being able to read the signs that the plant is thirsty allows you to hydrate it properly and circumvent both underwatering and overwatering which can lead to detrimental plant health issues.
Soil Dryness
One visible sign that field mustard needs water is the dryness of the soil. The first top inch of the soil will dry faster. However, field mustard prefers consistent moisture, so if the soil is dry below this top level, it is likely time for watering. A simple touch or a soil dryness tool can help determine this.
Leaf Wilting
If the leaves of the field mustard appear wilted or drooping, this can be a sign of water deprivation. It is essential to check the soil's moisture level additionally, as wilting can also occur due to overwatering.
Leaf Color
A change in leaf color, such as yellowing or browning particularly at leaf edges, may be a symptom that field mustard requires water. Ensure this isn't as a result of disease or pest infestation by inspecting plants regularly.
Stunted Growth
If you observe field mustard is not growing or maturing at its usual pace, it may need more water. This is more noticeable in the growing season.
Early or Late Watering Risks
Watering field mustard too early can lead to waterlogging and root rot, reducing the plant's ability to take up oxygen and nutrients. Watering too late, on the other hand, can lead to dehydration and stunted growth. Both of these situations can lead to increased susceptibility to diseases and pests.
How Should I Water My Field Mustard?
Watering Requirements
Brassica rapa, or Field mustard, has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration.
Watering Technique
A suitable watering technique for Brassica rapa is to water deeply and evenly, ensuring the entire root system receives moisture. This can be achieved by using a watering can with a gentle shower-like spout to distribute water evenly over the soil surface. It is important to avoid overwatering, as Brassica rapa is susceptible to root rot.
Special Equipment
Using a moisture meter can help determine when Brassica rapa needs watering. This tool measures the moisture content in the soil, allowing for more accurate watering decisions.
Avoiding Foliage
When watering Brassica rapa, it is important to direct the water flow at the base of the plant and avoid wetting the foliage excessively. This helps prevent the development of fungal diseases and also reduces water loss through evaporation.
Watering Frequency
Watering frequency will depend on various factors such as the size of the plant, the type of soil, and environmental conditions. It is best to allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. Regularly monitor the moisture levels in the soil using a moisture meter to determine the optimal timing for watering.
Bottom-Watering Technique
Another effective technique for watering Brassica rapa is bottom-watering. This involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the plant to absorb water from the bottom up. This method ensures that water reaches the roots directly without wetting the foliage.
Misting
Misting Brassica rapa can help increase humidity levels, especially in dry environments. However, be cautious not to mist excessively, as this can lead to fungal issues. It is advisable to mist in the morning to allow the foliage to dry before nighttime.
Watering in Different Growth Stages
During the seedling stage, Brassica rapa may benefit from misting or using a fine-mist sprayer to provide gentle moisture. As the plant matures, transitioning to deeper watering techniques, such as using a watering can or bottom-watering, will ensure proper hydration.
How Much Water Does Field Mustard Really Need?
Introduction
Field mustard is a species of plant native to various regions around the world, including Asia, Europe, and North America. It is commonly found growing in fields, meadows, and along roadways. Understanding the plant's natural habitat can help determine its hydration needs in terms of water quantity and conditions.
Optimal Water Quantity
To thrive, field mustard requires a consistent moisture level in its root zone. The watering amount should be sufficient to provide thorough hydration to the plant's root system. Factors like pot size, root depth, and plant size influence the amount of water needed. Larger pots with a higher volume of soil hold more water and will require larger watering amounts compared to smaller pots. Similarly, mature field mustard plants with well-established root systems will require more water than young plants. It is important to water the plant thoroughly, allowing the water to reach the entire root zone. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, as excessive water can lead to root rot.
Signs of Proper Hydration
Proper hydration for field mustard is indicated by healthy, green leaves and sturdy stems. Well-hydrated plants will exhibit good growth and productivity. However, signs of overwatering include yellowing leaves, soft and mushy stems, and the presence of mold or fungus. Underwatering, on the other hand, may cause wilting of leaves, dry and brittle stems, and a generally drooping appearance of the plant. It is crucial to strike a balance between water quantity and the plant's needs to ensure optimal growth and health.
Risks of Improper Watering
Providing too much water to field mustard can lead to waterlogged soil, depriving the roots of oxygen and causing root rot. This can significantly impact the plant's overall health and potentially lead to its demise. Insufficient watering, on the other hand, can result in stunted growth, reduced vitality, and increased susceptibility to diseases and pests. It is essential to monitor the moisture level in the soil and adjust watering accordingly to avoid these risks.
Additional Advice
In addition to watering quantity, it is important to consider the water conditions for field mustard. The plant prefers well-draining soil that allows excess water to drain away, preventing waterlogged conditions. To ensure the plant receives the right amount of water, regularly check the moisture content of the soil by inserting a finger into the soil about an inch deep. If it feels dry at this depth, it indicates the need to water the plant. However, if the soil feels consistently damp or wet, hold off on watering to avoid overhydration. It is also beneficial to mulch around the base of the plant to help retain soil moisture and prevent excessive evaporation.
How Often Should I Water Field Mustard?
Smart Seasonal Watering
Install the app for seasonal watering guidance
Download the App
Seedling
Every 3 days
Growing
Every 5 days
Flowering
Every 3 days
Fruiting
Every 4 days
Calculated based on: Chicago / March
What Kind of Water is Best for Field Mustard?
Water Type Guide for field mustard
Water Sensitivity: Moderate - field mustard prefers well-draining soil and should not be overly saturated with water.
Water Types
Rainwater: Best suited for field mustard as it is natural, free of chemicals, and has a balanced pH level. Distilled Water: A suitable alternative to rainwater, as long as it provides essential minerals and nutrients for the plant. Tap Water: Can be used if no other water sources are available. However, it may contain chlorine and other chemicals that can be harmful to the plant.
Chlorine Sensitivity
High - field mustard is sensitive to chlorine in tap water, which can cause leaf burn and overall stress to the plant.
Water Treatments
Dechlorination: It is recommended to let tap water sit out for at least 24 hours before using it on field mustard. This allows the chlorine to evaporate and makes it safer for the plant. Filtration: If using tap water, consider using a carbon filter to remove chlorine and other contaminants.
Water Temperature Preferences
Moderate - field mustard generally prefers water at room temperature (around 68-72°F or 20-22°C). Avoid using water that is too cold or too hot, as extreme temperatures can shock the plant.
How Do Field Mustard's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water field mustard in Spring?
In spring, field mustard enters a rapid growth phase and its watering needs increase. Ensure the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged. A general rule of thumb is watering once the top inch of soil becomes dry. This maintains optimal moisture levels to support the plant's new growth.
How to Water field mustard in Summer?
Summer sees field mustard in full bloom and the watering requirement remains high during this time. However, overwatering should be avoided to prevent root rot. Water in earlier parts of the day to avoid rapid evaporation and ensure deeper soil hydration.
How to Water field mustard in Autumn?
Field mustard begins to become dormant in autumn. Therefore, reduce the watering frequency gradually. However, it's still necessary to keep the soil slightly moist, especially if there is less rainfall.
How to Water field mustard in Winter?
Generally, field mustard is in hibernation during winter. It's important to ensure the soil does not dry out completely, but be cautious not to water too frequently as it could make the plant susceptible to frost damage.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Field Mustard Watering Routine?
Watering Tools:
Using a watering can with a long, narrow spout can help deliver water directly to the base of field mustard's stems, avoiding unnecessary moisture on the leaves and reducing the risk of fungal diseases.
Time of Day:
Water field mustard in the early morning or late afternoon, as watering during these cooler times helps minimize evaporation and allows the plants to absorb water more efficiently.
Soil Moisture:
To assess field mustard's soil moisture beyond the surface level, insert your finger or a soil probe about 2-3 inches deep. If it feels dry at this depth, it may be time to water. However, if it feels moist or wet, hold off on watering to prevent over-saturation.
Avoid Over-watering:
One common mistake is to water field mustard frequently and keep the soil constantly moist. Instead, allow the top inch of soil to dry out before watering again. This helps prevent root rot and allows the plant to develop a stronger root system.
Signs of Thirst:
When field mustard is in need of water, the leaves may wilt or become dull in color. Additionally, the plant may show signs of stress, such as stunted growth or yellowing leaves. Watering promptly when these signs appear can help revive the plant.
Signs of Over-watering:
If field mustard is over-watered, the leaves may turn yellow or exhibit soft, mushy spots. The soil may also have a foul odor and the plant may have a weakened root system. Adjusting the watering routine and allowing the soil to dry out can help alleviate the issue.
Watering in Special Conditions:
During a heatwave, field mustard may require more frequent watering to combat higher evaporation rates. However, it's important to maintain a balance and avoid excessive watering that can lead to root issues. During extended rainy periods, reduce watering to avoid waterlogged soil. If field mustard is stressed due to factors like transplanting or pest infestation, adjust the watering frequency and amount to provide extra support.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Field Mustard?
Overview of hydroponics
Field mustard is a plant that can be successfully grown using hydroponics, which is a method of cultivating plants without soil. Hydroponics involves growing plants in a water-based, nutrient-rich solution.
Best suited hydroponic system
For growing field mustard hydroponically, the nutrient film technique (NFT) is recommended. NFT involves a thin film of nutrient solution flowing over the roots, providing a constant supply of nutrients and water. This system works well for field mustard as it allows the roots to access oxygen and prevents waterlogging.
Nutrient solution requirements
Field mustard requires a balanced nutrient solution with an optimal pH range of 5.8-6.2. The nutrient solution should contain all essential macronutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) as well as micronutrients (iron, calcium, magnesium). A recommended concentration for the nutrient solution is 800-1000 ppm (parts per million) for field mustard. The solution should be changed every 1-2 weeks to ensure a fresh supply of nutrients.
Challenges and common issues
Some challenges when growing field mustard hydroponically include root rot, which can be caused by overwatering or poor oxygenation of the root zone. Nutrient imbalances may also occur, leading to deficiencies or toxicities. Additionally, field mustard requires sufficient light for growth, so ensuring appropriate light intensity and duration is crucial.
Monitoring plant health
Regularly monitor field mustard for signs of stress, such as wilting or yellowing leaves. Hydroponic plants may show different symptoms of nutrient deficiencies or toxicities compared to soil-grown plants, so it's important to understand the specific symptoms for field mustard. Conduct routine water and nutrient solution testing to ensure optimal conditions for growth.
Adjusting hydroponic environment
Depending on the growth stage of field mustard, adjustments to the hydroponic environment may be necessary. For example, during the vegetative stage, a higher nitrogen concentration in the nutrient solution may be beneficial. However, during flowering or fruiting, adjusting the nutrient ratios to promote phosphorous and potassium uptake is necessary.
Light requirements
Field mustard requires 14-16 hours of light per day for vegetative growth and 10-12 hours for flowering. Provide a sufficient light source with appropriate intensity and spectrum, such as LED grow lights, to ensure optimal growth.
Pruning and training
Regularly prune field mustard to maintain airflow and prevent overcrowding. Training techniques like topping, pinching, or trellising can promote bushier growth and higher yields.
Harvesting
Harvest field mustard by cutting the leaves or entire plants when they reach the desired size. Harvesting leaves individually allows for continuous growth and harvesting throughout the plant's life cycle.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering Symptoms of Field mustard
Overwatering can potentially cause disease symptoms in Field mustard, even though it thrives in a moist soil environment. However, excessive watering leading to prolonged dampness or waterlogging can result in yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering Symptoms of Field mustard
Field mustard is prone to experiencing plant health issues when lacking watering because it prefers a moist soil environment. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Yellowing leaves
The leaves may begin to yellow or develop dry tips as a result of water stress and reduced nutrient uptake.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Field Mustard
Why are the leaves of my field mustard turning yellow?
Yellow leaves are often the result of excessive watering. Field mustard prefers evenly moist soil and can become waterlogged if overwatered. This leads to a deficiency of oxygen leading to yellowing of leaves. Adjust your watering schedule to allow the soil to dry out a bit between watering sessions. A well-draining soil also helps in preventing this issue.
Why is my field mustard wilting and appearing droopy despite regular watering?
This condition could be due to underwatering or overwatering. Field mustard requires consistent moisture; however, too much or too little can stress the plant, causing it to wilt. Check the soil's moisture levels to decipher whether you're underwatering or overwatering. If it's too dry, water more frequently. If it's persistently wet, allow it to dry out before the next watering.
Why are there white patches on the leaves of my field mustard?
White patches on the leaves are usually a symptom of powdery mildew, a fungus often caused by inconsistent watering leading to high humidity conditions. Ensure to water field mustard at soil level to minimize wet leaves. Also, avoid overhead watering and ensure adequate air circulation around the plants.
My field mustard has stopped growing. Could this be due to watering issues?
If your field mustard has stopped growing, it could be due to water stress caused by either overwatering or underwatering. Overwatering can cause the roots to become oxygen-starved and even start to rot. On the other hand, not supplying enough water could cause dehydration for the plant. Make sure the field mustard receives a consistent supply of water, but make sure the soil never becomes overly soggy or dry.
What could be the cause of a lack of flower production in my field mustard?
Insufficient watering can cause a field mustard to function defensively and not produce flowers. Ensure that your plant is being watered adequately. However, too much water can lead to root rot, which also inhibits flowering. So, keep a balanced watering routine according to its needs.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Field mustard thrives best under ample light exposure, with open landscapes being the optimal environment. For healthier growth, the plant balances well between an overly sunlit area and partial light areas. The plant may show reduced vigor and poor flowering when subjected to insufficient light.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
View more
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Field mustard thrives in full sunlight and is commonly cultivated outdoors. When grown indoors with limited light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency that can easily go unnoticed.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your field mustard may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Field mustard enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Field mustard thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
View more
(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Field mustard is native to climates that cater to its temperature requirements of 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives in warm season, however, appropriate adjustments must be made to maintain this temperature range during cooler seasons.
Regional wintering strategies
Field mustard prefers relatively warm temperatures, so maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter cultivation is beneficial for plant growth. The minimum temperature should be kept above freezing point to prevent the plant from freezing damage. When the outdoor temperature approaches -5°C (25°F) during winter, it is advisable to bring Field mustard indoors or provide protection by setting up a temporary greenhouse or using materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Field mustard
Field mustard has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may darken in color. In severe cases, water-soaked necrosis, wilting, and drooping may occur, and the color of the leaves gradually turns brown.
Solutions
Trim away the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Field mustard
During summer, Field mustard should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth slows down, the color of its leaves becomes lighter, and it becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
