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Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata
Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata
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Key Facts About Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Feedback
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Attributes of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Leaf type
Evergreen

Scientific Classification of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Common Pests & Diseases About Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Common issues for Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata based on 10 million real cases
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Waterlogging
Waterlogging Waterlogging
Waterlogging
Excessive watering will cause many of the leaves near the base of the branch to turn yellow, but the upper leaves will retain a healthy green color.
Solutions: So long as you address waterlogging problems right away, your plant should recover. First, assess the extent of the damage to determine whether it is mild or severe. If the damage is mild, you may only need to reduce your watering levels to revive the plant. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out between waterings. If the damage is severe: Repot with fresh soil, preferably in a pot with better drainage. If necessary, move plants to places where they get adequate ventilation so the soil can dry out between waterings. Prune away all dead and yellowing leaves. This reduces the plant's water needs and lessens the stress on the roots. It also encourages it to produce new, healthier growth. You should start noticing improvements within a few weeks.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Fire ants
Fire ants Fire ants
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
close
Waterlogging
plant poor
Waterlogging
Excessive watering will cause many of the leaves near the base of the branch to turn yellow, but the upper leaves will retain a healthy green color.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant is developing yellow leaves and seems stunted, and the soil feels perpetually wet.
These are classic signs of waterlogging, which means that too much moisture in the soil is restricting space for oxygen molecules. Waterlogging slowly suffocates plant roots, which limits the water and nutrients they can take in. Your plant will try to survive by reducing the number of leaves it supports, which leads them to yellow and wither from the roots up.
If you don’t address the cause of waterlogging, it can soon kill the entire plant.
Solutions
Solutions
So long as you address waterlogging problems right away, your plant should recover.
First, assess the extent of the damage to determine whether it is mild or severe.
If the damage is mild, you may only need to reduce your watering levels to revive the plant. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out between waterings.
If the damage is severe:
  1. Repot with fresh soil, preferably in a pot with better drainage.
  2. If necessary, move plants to places where they get adequate ventilation so the soil can dry out between waterings.
  3. Prune away all dead and yellowing leaves. This reduces the plant's water needs and lessens the stress on the roots. It also encourages it to produce new, healthier growth.
You should start noticing improvements within a few weeks.
Prevention
Prevention
Reduce your plant’s risk of waterlogging by monitoring your watering frequency.
  1. Only water when the finger test indicates the soil is dry up to your second knuckle (about the top two inches)
  2. Consider purchasing a soil water meter and watering when indicated.
  3. Plant only in pots with good drainage
  4. Use premium-quality potting soil for indoor plants to ensure that plant roots can access adequate amounts of nutrients and oxygen.
  5. Address signs of waterlogging right away so you can correct it before the plant roots are compromised.
  6. Snip off yellowing leaves as they form to prevent them from further stressing a plant.
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Powdery Mildew
plant poor
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
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qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Fire ants
plant poor
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
  • Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
  • Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
  • Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
  • Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
  • Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Fruit mold
plant poor
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
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qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
distribution

Distribution of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Distribution Map of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Cultivated
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Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata
Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata
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Key Facts About Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Feedback
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Attributes of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Scientific Classification of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Common issues for Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata based on 10 million real cases
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Waterlogging
Waterlogging Waterlogging Waterlogging
Excessive watering will cause many of the leaves near the base of the branch to turn yellow, but the upper leaves will retain a healthy green color.
Solutions: So long as you address waterlogging problems right away, your plant should recover. First, assess the extent of the damage to determine whether it is mild or severe. If the damage is mild, you may only need to reduce your watering levels to revive the plant. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out between waterings. If the damage is severe: Repot with fresh soil, preferably in a pot with better drainage. If necessary, move plants to places where they get adequate ventilation so the soil can dry out between waterings. Prune away all dead and yellowing leaves. This reduces the plant's water needs and lessens the stress on the roots. It also encourages it to produce new, healthier growth. You should start noticing improvements within a few weeks.
Learn More About the Waterlogging more
Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Solutions: As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms: If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Learn More About the Powdery Mildew more
Fire ants
Fire ants Fire ants Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Solutions: Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy. Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all. For less severe cases: Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem). Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes. For severe cases: Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb. Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants. Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Learn More About the Fire ants more
Fruit mold
Fruit mold Fruit mold Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Solutions: There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed). Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Learn More About the Fruit mold more
close
Waterlogging
plant poor
Waterlogging
Excessive watering will cause many of the leaves near the base of the branch to turn yellow, but the upper leaves will retain a healthy green color.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant is developing yellow leaves and seems stunted, and the soil feels perpetually wet.
These are classic signs of waterlogging, which means that too much moisture in the soil is restricting space for oxygen molecules. Waterlogging slowly suffocates plant roots, which limits the water and nutrients they can take in. Your plant will try to survive by reducing the number of leaves it supports, which leads them to yellow and wither from the roots up.
If you don’t address the cause of waterlogging, it can soon kill the entire plant.
Solutions
Solutions
So long as you address waterlogging problems right away, your plant should recover.
First, assess the extent of the damage to determine whether it is mild or severe.
If the damage is mild, you may only need to reduce your watering levels to revive the plant. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out between waterings.
If the damage is severe:
  1. Repot with fresh soil, preferably in a pot with better drainage.
  2. If necessary, move plants to places where they get adequate ventilation so the soil can dry out between waterings.
  3. Prune away all dead and yellowing leaves. This reduces the plant's water needs and lessens the stress on the roots. It also encourages it to produce new, healthier growth.
You should start noticing improvements within a few weeks.
Prevention
Prevention
Reduce your plant’s risk of waterlogging by monitoring your watering frequency.
  1. Only water when the finger test indicates the soil is dry up to your second knuckle (about the top two inches)
  2. Consider purchasing a soil water meter and watering when indicated.
  3. Plant only in pots with good drainage
  4. Use premium-quality potting soil for indoor plants to ensure that plant roots can access adequate amounts of nutrients and oxygen.
  5. Address signs of waterlogging right away so you can correct it before the plant roots are compromised.
  6. Snip off yellowing leaves as they form to prevent them from further stressing a plant.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Powdery Mildew
plant poor
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a white mold that appears on leaves. It can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Powdery Mildew is a common disease and the scourge of many home gardeners. It affects a large variety of plants including many varieties of vegetables. The disease is easy to identify but not always easy to get rid of once it has started to infect plants.
Powdery Mildew thrives in warm, humid conditions and can quickly spread from plant to plant. Although this disease will not kill the plants, a severe infestation will inhibit plant growth and fruit production.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Powdery Mildew appears as pale yellow spots on leaves. These spots then become white and look powdery. The fungus spreads quickly both on the top and underside of the leaves and on the plant stems.
These white, powdery spots will join up and soon, almost the entire surface of the leaf appears white. Eventually, the edges of the leaf will turn brown and dry and start to die.
In severe infections, even the flower buds will turn white and become disfigured. Fruit will ripen prematurely and be inedible.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Powdery Mildew is caused by a fungus. There are many different genera of fungus diseases that cause powdery Mildew. The fungal spores overwinter inside leaf buds and on plant material that has dropped to the soil below. As the weather warms up, these spores are then carried onto the plant by water, wind, and insects. Powdery Mildew can also be more severe in areas that experience warm, dry climates, even though the spores require some humidity to germinate.
Solutions
Solutions
As powdery Mildew spores are transported by the wind, it can be tricky to put a complete stop to the spread of the fungus. Luckily, there are several easy treatments for plants that are exhibiting symptoms:
  1. If powdery Mildew seems to be impacting isolated leaves or stems, they can simply be trimmed away and disposed of. Disinfect pruning tools after doing this.
  2. Remove any plant debris from the ground around the infected plants and dispose of it in the garbage. Then, cover the soil with a thick layer of mulch to limit reinfection.
  3. Milk sprays have been found to be useful in controlling powdery Mildew. Make up a spray consisting of 60% water and 40% milk and spray on the affected plants. This can also be used as a preventative measure.
  4. In cases where powdery Mildew is more widespread, plants can be sprayed with a mild sulfur- or copper-based fungicide or a non-toxic solution made from baking soda and soap. Sprays can help areas that have been recently infected, though they are less effective against well-established infections.
  5. If possible, try transplanting the plants to a sunnier location. Though powdery Mildew does fine in hot, dry conditions, it is unable to reproduce without some humidity. Putting plants in more direct sunlight can help stop the spread of the fungus.
  6. Trimming around closely-packed plants can help improve airflow, which also prevents the reproduction of the fungus.
Prevention
Prevention
There are a few ways to prevent a powdery Mildew infection from occurring in the first place:
  1. Preemptive chemical controls, including fungicides and non-toxic solutions, can help prevent powdery Mildew from becoming established on plants.
  2. When placing new plants, allow enough space between each one to provide adequate air circulation.
  3. Water at the base of plants rather than from overhead.
  4. Many mildew-resistant strains of common garden plants are available. Consider these in areas that have a Mediterranean climate.
  5. Powdery Mildew can form tiny, round black structures, called cleistothecia, as the growing season draws to a close. These hardy, dry structures help the fungus survive winter. Raking away debris over the winter can remove stowaway cleistothecia and will help prevent plants from being reinfected.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Fire ants
plant poor
Fire ants
Fire ants gnaw on the roots of plants and are aggressive toward people.
Overview
Overview
Fire ants are a group of ants that are known for their aggressive behavior and painful stings. Some fire ants are native and others are invasive from other countries. Once they reach plants, they climb them and chew away at leaves and flower buds.
Fire ants also kill and eat beneficial insects such as caterpillars, ladybugs, mantis, and native ants. They can be a problem any time temperatures are above freezing, but new infestations are most likely to appear when brought in via contaminated material such as potting soil or mulch, or when insecticides have harmed populations of beneficial insects that would otherwise control populations of fire ants.
They can be difficult to control, especially once populations become large. Plant damage is typically minor, but fire ants can destroy seedlings.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The number one symptom of fire ants is seeing the ants themselves which are red or black in color. Ant mounds in the ground are also signs. Fire ant mounds rarely exceed 46 cm in diameter. If a fire ant mound is disturbed, many fast-moving, aggressive ants will emerge. These ants will bite and then painfully sting.
Even if no ants are visible, their damage might be apparent. Chewed leaf and flower edges might indicate fire ants. Fully eaten seedlings are another sign.
Solutions
Solutions
Caution: fire ants are venomous and cause painful bites which can be fatal in the case of a rare but significant allergy.
Fire ants can be a painful pest to have around for you and your plants. Keeping them under control will ensure comfortable gardening for all.
For less severe cases:
  • Physically remove mounds. Dig out and remove entire mounds (remember, they go deeper than they seem).
  • Use citrus oil. Pour citrus oil, which is toxic to fire ants, down their holes.
For severe cases:
  • Use ant bait. For a chemical solution, broadcast insecticide bait formulated for fire ants in the area around a mound. Apply the bait during a dry evening so the ants can forage for it at night. Look for products that contain Indoxacarb.
  • Release phorid flies. Introduce or promote beneficial phorid flies to gardens. These parasitic flies attack invasive fire ants.
  • Hire a professional. Some ant baits are only available to professional exterminators. For serious cases of fire ants, consider hiring a professional.
Prevention
Prevention
Fire ants become more difficult to control as they establish themselves, so try to prevent them or treat them early.
  • Monitor new material. Do not bring in any soil or plants from known infested areas, unless if they are "Quarantine Approved." Make sure to check new material for fire ants.
  • Apply insecticide. Some warm and humid areas have high fire ants populations. In these areas, spread a granular fire ants insecticide such as Varsity in the spring near gardens to prevent these unwelcome visitors.
  • Treat early. Spot treat at the first sight of any fire ants mound, as larger mounds are more difficult to treat.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Fruit mold
plant poor
Fruit mold
Fungal infections can cause mold to grow on the surface of the fruit and may also cause decay.
Overview
Overview
Fruit mold is the result of fungal infection by one or more of a wide variety of fungal species. Favoring damp and cool conditions, this problem can have a devastating effect on most fruit crops as it tends to occur just when fruit are reaching maturity. Once mold establishes itself, the fruit quickly decays and becomes inedible. The fungus is capable of spreading quickly to other fruit, either or the same plant or on neighboring plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms tend to be obvious but are quick to develop.
  1. Brown lesions form on the fruit and occasionally the blossoms. These lesions become soft, mushy, and develop a fuzzy gray or brown coating.
  2. The infection will very quickly spread to any fruit in contact with those that are infected.
  3. Fruit may drop or remain on the plant and mummify over time.
  4. Infection may spread to leaves and new branches, eventually leading to demise of the entire plant .
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
This condition is caused by one of a number of fungal species which all follow a similar cycle. Spores remain dormant on dead plant material over the winter months and then emerge during the spring when they are carried by the wind or insect vectors to the host plant. Once they land on a plant, often facilitated by damp conditions, the spores will gain entry and breed (sporulate) rapidly. Entry to the plant is often through damage caused by sap-sucking insects.
Solutions
Solutions
There are some relatively easy steps to stop the spread of fruit mold, but swift action must be taken.
  1. Prune away infected fruits or flowers. As soon as lesions or fuzz are seen, cut away the infected parts and dispose of them. Do not compost.
  2. Apply fungicide to plants with mild infections (those with severe infections may need to be destroyed).
  3. Increase airflow. Since spores are mainly wind born, increasing the airflow around your plants will make them less susceptible to infection. Maintain maximum space between plants and open branch structures during the pruning season.
Prevention
Prevention
There are easy, preventative steps the gardener can take to stop mold from attacking fruits and fruit-bearing plants:
  1. Rake up rotting debris when the growing season is over. Fungi can overwinter on rotting debris and reinfect plants the following season. Clear the ground beneath fruit trees and remove hanging mummified fruit.
  2. Prune off any infected branches.
  3. Burn all infected debris.
  4. Preemptively apply fungicide to susceptible plants, especially in the spring. This can help prevent infections from progressing to a stage where fruits are affected.
  5. Don't overcrowd when planting. Overcrowding will reduce air circulation, leaving plants wetter for longer and increasing the chance of infection.
  6. Use drip irrigation instead of overhead irrigation. This will help keep plant surfaces free of moisture, while still ensuring roots are getting enough water. Hose-watering should be performed early in the day, with the spray directed at the base of plants.
  7. Don't over-fertilize early in the spring. Added nutrients will increase leaf size. As leaves can hold moisture and provide a surface for spores to adhere to, this can increase the chance that mold grows on the plant. Fertilizing later in the season, when fruits are ripening, means additional nutrients will be directed towards those fruits, rather than leaves.
  8. Insect prevention measures will reduce wounds on plants and decrease access points for fungal spores.
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distribution

Distribution of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Distribution Map of Callitriche brutia subsp. hamulata

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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