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Safflower
Safflower
Safflower
Safflower
Safflower
Carthamus tinctorius
Also known as : Dyer's saffron, Safflower oil plant, American saffron, Fake saffron
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) is a branched, herbaceous, thistle-like annual plant native to arid environments in North America. In cooking, this plant is often used as a substitute for saffron, although it is considered an inferior substitute. In Japan, fiber makers use safflower to make a bright orange red dye.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
care guide

Care Guide for Safflower

Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs, watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the dead, diseased, overgrown branches in winter.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Chalky, Clay, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
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Safflower
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
2 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
question

Questions About Safflower

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Safflower?
To water Safflower, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Safflower is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Safflower as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Safflower that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Safflower, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.
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What should I do if I water my Safflower too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Safflower is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Safflower is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Safflower that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Safflower, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
Read More more
How often should I water my Safflower?
Safflower needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Safflower. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Safflower grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Safflower that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Safflower a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
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How much water does my Safflower need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Safflower. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Safflower. Typically, you should give your Safflower about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Safflower in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Safflower enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Safflower. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Safflower are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Safflower may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Safflower as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
Read More more
How should I water my Safflower through the seasons?
You can expect your Safflower’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Safflower, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Safflower that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Safflower is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
Read More more
How should I water my Safflower at different growth stages?
Safflower will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Safflower as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Safflower will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Safflower will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering Safflower indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Safflower grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Safflower needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Safflower water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Safflower

Attributes of Safflower

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Early fall
Harvest Time
Early fall, Mid fall
Plant Height
61 cm to 91 cm
Spread
30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2 cm to 4 cm
Flower Color
Orange
Yellow
Red
Fruit Color
Red
Stem Color
Green
Yellow
Orange
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Attractiveness to others, attract and "catch" good luck and love, happiness

Usages

Garden Use
The showy colors of safflower make it a choice candidate for informal cottage gardens, especially during the summer. Gardeners often use this ornamental flowering plant as garden borders or plant it in flower beds beside other colorful specimens. Its oils are popular, so it also grows in crop gardens where it can be harvested.

Scientific Classification of Safflower

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Safflower

Common issues for Safflower based on 10 million real cases
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Leaf Weevils
plant poor
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
  • Spray the foliage with an insecticide
  • Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
  • Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
  • Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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distribution

Distribution of Safflower

Habitat of Safflower

Meadows, fields
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Safflower

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Safflower Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
Safflower thrives when exposed to considerable daily sunshine, but can gracefully withstand intervals of less abundant sunshine. Its natural habitat blessed it with an adaptive tolerance. However, a deficit or excess can impair its healthy growth, leading to weakened vitality or scorched foliage.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Safflower thrives best in native conditions of 68 to 100.4°F (20 to 38℃). Adjustments to mimic these conditions need to be made, particularly in cooler seasons to ensure optimal plant growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-12 inches
The best time to transplant safflower is during mid-spring to early summer, as the plant thrives when established in warmer soil. Choose a sunlit location with well-drained soil. Gently loosen the root ball during transplant to promote healthy growth. Good luck with your lovely safflower!
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Autumn
This thistle-like, oil-producing plant thrives in dryer climates. For safflower, prune to remove dead or weak stems, maintain airflow, and shape plants. The ideal pruning window spans early spring to late fall, aligning with its active growing phase. Pruning ensures healthier growth, minimizes disease, and may enhance bloom quality. Exercise care to keep the core structure of safflower intact during trimming.
Pruning techniques
Feng shui direction
South
The safflower aligns harmoniously with South-facing homes or offices. This stems from its warm hue, an element which symbolizes the fire element within the Feng Shui practice, energetically linked to the sunny South. This assertion, however, is merely a generalized interpretation of Feng Shui principles and may not directly apply to individual experiences.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Safflower

Spiny amaranth
Spiny amaranth
Spiny amaranth (Amaranthus spinosus) is a plant species native to the lowland American tropics. However, spiny amaranth has spread invasively to tropical regions around the globe. This species is named for the sharp spines at each of its leaf nodes.
Spotted touch-me-not
Spotted touch-me-not
The spotted touch-me-not is a wildflower that is native to North America with bright orange flowers that have darker orange or red spots. The spotted touch-me-not gets its “touch me not” name because when seed pods are mature, the lightest touch caused them to expel their seeds in a reaction called dehiscence.
Hairy willowherb
Hairy willowherb
Hairy willowherb (Epilobium hirsutum) is a species of weed that is difficult to eradicate. It is not known to be toxic, but the sale of this plant or its seeds has been banned in some areas. This is because its dense, aggressive growth habits can crowd out and destroy other native beneficial plants.
Dragon fruit
Dragon fruit
Dragon fruit berries are edible and have bright red skins and white pulp. A delicious tropical fruit, they also have a high nutritional value. Dragon fruit is a climbing plant with aerial roots and often climbs on tree trunks, abandoned walls, or boulders. It requires plenty of light but is easy to care for and can be planted in a yard.
Cherokee rose
Cherokee rose
The Rosa laevigata is a fragrant rose that's indigenous to parts of Asia. It's considered invasive in the United States. The flower is commonly known as cherokee rose in the United States, and its white petals are said to stand for the tears of Native American Cherokee women being forcibly removed from their homes as part of the infamous Trail of Tears.
Greater periwinkle
Greater periwinkle
Greater periwinkle (Vinca major) is an evergreen shrub native to the Western Mediterranean. It features lavender-colored flowers, and thick, lustrous deep green foliage. To avoid garden invasion and also for ornamental purposes, it's best to grow this plant in hanging pots or in window containers.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Safflower
Safflower
Safflower
Safflower
Safflower
Carthamus tinctorius
Also known as: Dyer's saffron, Safflower oil plant, American saffron, Fake saffron
Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) is a branched, herbaceous, thistle-like annual plant native to arid environments in North America. In cooking, this plant is often used as a substitute for saffron, although it is considered an inferior substitute. In Japan, fiber makers use safflower to make a bright orange red dye.
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring
question

Questions About Safflower

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Safflower?
more
What should I do if I water my Safflower too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Safflower?
more
How much water does my Safflower need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Safflower enough?
more
How should I water my Safflower through the seasons?
more
How should I water my Safflower at different growth stages?
more
What's the difference between watering Safflower indoors and outdoors?
more
icon
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Safflower

Attributes of Safflower

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Early fall
Harvest Time
Early fall, Mid fall
Plant Height
61 cm to 91 cm
Spread
30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2 cm to 4 cm
Flower Color
Orange
Yellow
Red
Fruit Color
Red
Stem Color
Green
Yellow
Orange
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Attractiveness to others, attract and "catch" good luck and love, happiness

Usages

Garden Use
The showy colors of safflower make it a choice candidate for informal cottage gardens, especially during the summer. Gardeners often use this ornamental flowering plant as garden borders or plant it in flower beds beside other colorful specimens. Its oils are popular, so it also grows in crop gardens where it can be harvested.

Scientific Classification of Safflower

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Safflower

Common issues for Safflower based on 10 million real cases
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Learn More About the Leaf Weevils more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
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AI-powered plant doctor helps you diagnose plant problems in seconds.
Download the App
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Leaf Weevils
plant poor
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
  • Spray the foliage with an insecticide
  • Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
  • Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
  • Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Prevention
Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
  • Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
  • Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
  • Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
  • Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
  • Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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distribution

Distribution of Safflower

Habitat of Safflower

Meadows, fields
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Safflower

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
plant_info

Plants Related to Safflower

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Safflower thrives when exposed to considerable daily sunshine, but can gracefully withstand intervals of less abundant sunshine. Its natural habitat blessed it with an adaptive tolerance. However, a deficit or excess can impair its healthy growth, leading to weakened vitality or scorched foliage.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Safflower, a plant that thrives in full sunlight, is commonly grown outdoors with ample sunlight. When cultivated indoors with inadequate light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your safflower may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Safflower enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Safflower thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Safflower thrives best in native conditions of 68 to 100.4°F (20 to 38℃). Adjustments to mimic these conditions need to be made, particularly in cooler seasons to ensure optimal plant growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Safflower has strong cold resistance, so special frost protection measures are usually not necessary during winter. However, if the winter temperatures are expected to drop below {Limit_growth_temperature}, it is still important to provide cold protection. This can be achieved by covering the plant with materials such as soil or straw. Before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant abundantly, ensuring the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Safflower is cold-tolerant and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, there may be a decrease in sprouting or even no sprouting during springtime.
Solutions
In spring, remove any parts that have failed to sprout.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Safflower should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the leaves of the plant may become lighter in color, prone to curling, susceptible to sunburn, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wilt and become dry.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Safflower?
The best time to transplant safflower is during mid-spring to early summer, as the plant thrives when established in warmer soil. Choose a sunlit location with well-drained soil. Gently loosen the root ball during transplant to promote healthy growth. Good luck with your lovely safflower!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Safflower?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Safflower?
The prime time for transplanting safflower is from middle of spring to early summer. This period offers growing safflower the perfect blend of warmth and moisture to thrive. By transplanting safflower during this phase, you ensure they get a long, healthy growth period before winter sets in, allowing a robust establishment for the upcoming season.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Safflower Plants?
To give your safflower enough room to grow, space the plants about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) apart. This will ensure proper air circulation and prevent overcrowding, allowing your plant to thrive.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Safflower Transplanting?
To prepare the soil for safflower, use well-draining loamy soil with added organic matter. Incorporate a balanced, slow-release fertilizer into the soil before transplanting to promote healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Safflower?
Choose a location for transplanting your safflower that receives full sun exposure, ideally at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. The abundant sunlight will encourage strong growth and vibrant flowers.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Safflower?
Gardening Gloves
To safeguard your hands from any thorns or rough surfaces in the garden.
Shovel or Spade
These are required to dig an appropriate hole in the ground when planting your safflower.
Trowel
This can be handy for handling the plant and the roots when you remove it from its original spot.
Watering Can or Hose
Used to water the plant before and after transplanting.
Pot (only if applicable)
A temporary container for your plant, if you are transplanting it from a pot to the ground.
How Do You Remove Safflower from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by watering the soil around safflower plant to make it easier to remove. With your shovel or spade, make a circle around the plant, keeping a safe distance to avoid damaging the roots. Now, slowly and gently begin to take the soil out and lift the plant preserving its root structure.
From Pot: Water the safflower plant, then turn the pot sideways, hold the plant from the base and try to ease it out. Do not pull it forcefully; if it does not come out easily, tap the sides of the pot to loosen the soil.
From Seedling Tray: Water the seedlings and gently separate them, trying not to damage the roots. Take individual seedlings using a dibber or a spoon, holding them by their leaves, not by the roots or stem.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Safflower
Digging
Start by digging a hole in your garden where you plan to transplant your safflower using a shovel. The hole should be larger than the plant's root ball.
Placement
Carefully place the safflower in the hole at the same level it was in its previous location. To do this, make sure the top of the root ball is level with the ground surface.
Backfill
Backfill the hole with the soil you dug out, ensuring that you completely cover the root ball of the safflower. Lightly pat the soil to remove any air pockets.
Watering
After planting your safflower, water it generously to keep the roots hydrated and help them establish themselves in their new home.
How Do You Care For Safflower After Transplanting?
Watering_Directions
Regular watering is essential for a newly transplanted safflower. Water the plant immediately after transplanting, and continue to do so every day for the first week, and then decrease the frequency gradually.
Pruning
Pruning boosts the overall strength of your safflower, reduces the shock after transplant and stimulates new growth. Remove old, damaged, or excessively long branches after your plant is well established in its new location.
Pest Control
Regularly monitor your safflower for signs of pests or diseases. If you notice unusual spots, discoloration or insects, consider using an organic insecticide or fungicide.
Mulch
Apply a layer of mulch around your plant. This helps to maintain soil moisture and keep the growth of weeds in check.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Safflower Transplantation.
When's the perfect time to transplant safflower?
Mid-spring to early summer is the ideal timeframe to ensure your safflower establishes appropriately.
What is the optimal space between safflower plants during transplanting?
For healthy growth, maintain a distance of about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) between each safflower.
How deep should I plant safflower during transplanting?
Safflower should be planted about an inch (2.5 cm) deep in the soil for successful establishment.
Do I need to water safflower immediately after transplanting?
Yes, watering immediately after transplanting ensures that safflower settles well in the new environment.
Why are my transplanted safflower wilting?
Wilting may be a sign of water stress. Make sure your newly transplanted safflower are adequately watered.
What kind of sunlight exposure is needed for transplanted safflower?
Safflower favours full sunlight. Ensure it's placed in a location where it can get 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
What is the ideal soil pH for transplanting safflower?
Safflower flourishes best in slightly acidic to neutral soil, with a pH between 6 and 7.5.
Can I use fertilisers while transplanting safflower?
Yes, a mild slow-release fertiliser can be beneficial. However, excessive fertilising can damage the plant.
How frequently should I water the transplanted safflower?
Water safflower moderately after transplanting, letting the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dry out between watering.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted safflower turning yellow?
Yellow leaves could be a symptomatic of overwatering or a nutrient deficiency. Adjust watering and consider a balanced fertiliser.
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