
































Care Guide for Parlor palm




























Questions About Parlor palm


















More Questions People Also Ask


More About How-Tos









Common Pests & Diseases





















- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue


- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.

- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.






- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases


- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.







- Physically remove mites from plants
- Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
- Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
- Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
- Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
- Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting

- Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
- Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
- Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
- Avoid fertilizing during a drought
- Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
- Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
- Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.















- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.



Distribution Map
Habitat



More Info




Name story
Symbolism
Usages
Scientific Classification


Related Plants







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Care Guide for Parlor palm














Questions About Parlor palm

















More Questions People Also Ask


More About How-Tos

Common Pests & Diseases


























- Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
- Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
- Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue


- Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
- Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
- Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
- If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
- If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
- Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
- If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.

- Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
- Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
- Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
- Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
- Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...






- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases


- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...







- Physically remove mites from plants
- Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
- Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
- Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
- Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
- Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting

- Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
- Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
- Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
- Avoid fertilizing during a drought
- Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
- Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
- Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...









unlimited guides at your fingertips...






- Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
- If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
- Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
- Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.

- Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
- Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
- Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
unlimited guides at your fingertips...


Distribution Map
Habitat
Map


More Info




Name story
Symbolism
Usages
Scientific Classification


Related Plants








unlimited guides at your fingertips...





















- Root Depth: parlor palm's roots are relatively shallow and typically occupy the top 6 inches of the soil. Watering should focus on penetrating this depth without over-saturating the soil.
- Pot Size: Smaller pots tend to dry out faster, requiring more frequent watering. Conversely, larger pots retain moisture longer, so less frequent watering is necessary.
- Plant Size: A mature parlor palm plant requires more water compared to a smaller, younger plant. The overall leaf surface area and transpiration rate increase with plant size, leading to higher water needs.

- Soil Moisture: After watering, the soil should feel evenly moist but not soggy. It should not be overly dry or waterlogged.
- Leaf Appearance: Well-hydrated parlor palm plants have lush, green leaves that feel firm to the touch. They should not appear wilted or droopy.

- Overwatering: Excessive watering can lead to root rot and the development of fungal diseases. It may also cause the plant's lower leaves to turn yellow and drop prematurely.
- Underwatering: Insufficient water can cause the plant's leaves to become dry, brown, and brittle. It may also result in stunted growth and a weakened overall appearance.





















































1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.


















































