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Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Claytonia sibirica
Also known as : Siberian miner's lettuce, Petrolia pink
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
care guide

Care Guide for Siberian spring beauty

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Chalky, Clay, Acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun, Full shade
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
4 to 8
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Details on Planting Time Planting Time
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Siberian spring beauty
Water
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
question

Questions About Siberian spring beauty

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Siberian spring beauty?
When watering the Siberian spring beauty, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Siberian spring beauty comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Siberian spring beauty too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Siberian spring beauty, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Siberian spring beauty, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Siberian spring beauty have become brittle and brown. It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Siberian spring beauty. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Siberian spring beauty grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Siberian spring beauty is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Siberian spring beauty?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Siberian spring beauty needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. If you grow your Siberian spring beauty outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Siberian spring beauty can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Siberian spring beauty need?
When it comes time to water your Siberian spring beauty, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Siberian spring beauty at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Siberian spring beauty can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Siberian spring beauty is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Siberian spring beauty will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Siberian spring beauty will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Siberian spring beauty more water at this time.
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How should I water my Siberian spring beauty through the seasons?
The Siberian spring beauty will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Siberian spring beauty will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Siberian spring beauty indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Siberian spring beauty indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Siberian spring beauty to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Siberian spring beauty very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Siberian spring beauty

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Attributes of Siberian spring beauty

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall, Late winter
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
5 cm to 40 cm
Spread
20 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
8 mm to 2 cm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Stem Color
Green
White
Pink
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
Growth Rate:Moderate
With a moderate growth rate in spring and summer, siberian spring beauty experiences a steady increase in height and foliage density. Siberian spring beauty's reassuringly paced expansion allows time for ample nutrient absorption, fostering healthier, lushly leafed specimens. Its growth rate simultaneously supports abundant flowering during the extended daylight of summer. Surges in growth might occasionally occur during particularly sunny, rain-laden springs, reflecting siberian spring beauty's adaptability.

Symbolism

Scientific Classification of Siberian spring beauty

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Siberian spring beauty

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Common issues for Siberian spring beauty based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Gall
Gall Gall
Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Solutions: While galls may look alarming, the physical structures themselves pose little threat to the plant or tree and do not require chemical treatment. If the galls are unsightly, they can be removed using sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruners or loppers. Discard or destroy all removed plant parts. It is important to treat the underlying cause, as insects or diseases can create long-term damage if left untreated. After identifying the pest, natural or chemical may be used, depending upon individual gardening preferences. To treat pests naturally apply an insecticidal soap. Dilute 1 tablespoon of soap per quart of water in a spray bottle and mix gently. Spray the entire plant until the leaves are dripping, making sure to coat the underside and tops. Re-spray every 2 to 3 days. To treat organically apply neem oil, a naturally occurring pesticide, per label directions every 7 days until pests are eradicated. To treat chemically apply an insecticidal foliar spray. Follow the dosing instructions provided by the manufacturer on the product label. For fungal or bacterial causes, apply a bactericide or copper-based fungicide in the spring, following the dosing instructions provided on the product label.
Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Gall
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Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Overview
Overview
A general symptom of plant irritation, a gall is a spherical or lumpy, tumor-like growth that appears on leaves, stems, branches and trunks of various plants, especially trees. Galls form around a potential problem or irritation, like a pearl forming around a bit of sand in an oyster shell, to separate the cause from the rest of the plant. Many form around insect damage or a localized infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Abnormal growths appear on leaves or other parts of the plant. The brown or brightly colored bumps may be simple or complicated structures.
  • Leaf galls appear on most herbaceous plants and trees. They are more prone to develop on new growth and following mild winters in which insects and diseases were not killed by the cold.
  • Leaf galls look like leaf curls, nipples, blisters, or erineums (hairy growths) and can occur on upper or lower leaf surfaces.
  • Bud or flower galls cause these parts to be deformed in size or shape.
  • Stem and twig galls cause deformed growth on twigs and stems, with symptom severity ranging from slight swelling to large, knot-like growth.
  • Stunted plant growth is possible, as galls steal nutrients from the plant.
  • Long-lasting damage can occur if there are many galls or galls present for a long period of time.
It's important to note that galls, especially leaf galls, are extremely common. Noticing galls is not a cause to panic – most plants will have galls from time to time. However, it is when they are widespread or long-lasting that steps will need to be taken to remove them.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are many different processes and organisms that produce galls. Some appear when sap-sucking insects feed on leaves; some shelter developing insect eggs; some develop as a response to fungal or bacterial infection.
The most common culprits include:
  • Feeding or egg-laying mites and insects - the saliva and other secretions cause the plants to produce more growth hormones.
  • High hormone production resulting in increased cell numbers or cell size (because of this, mature plants tend not to be affected).
  • Fungal infection
  • Galls forming on leaf blades and sheaths are more often caused by viruses or bacteria.
  • Nematodes can also cause galls to form on plants, but these tend to form in the roots.
  • Parasitic plants such as mistletoe can cause galls on their hosts.
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Caterpillars
plant poor
Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Siberian spring beauty

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Habitat of Siberian spring beauty

Damp woods, shaded streamsides, thickets of red alder, dogwood, vine-leaf maple, moist shaded coniferous forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Siberian spring beauty

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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care_scenes

More Info on Siberian Spring Beauty Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
The siberian spring beauty flourishes under a generous amount of sun exposure but shows adaptability in lesser lit areas, even in complete shadow. Originating from environments with diverse light conditions influences this robust sunlight tolerance. Overexposure can cause scorching while insufficient light may lead to slow growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
8-10 inches
Transplanting siberian spring beauty thrives best in S1, also known as the cool, early spring season. It basks in half-shady locations, which allows for balanced growth. Be sure to provide adequate distance between plants during transplant stages, aiding in health and vibrancy!
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
East
The siberian spring beauty is amicable with Feng Shui principles, embodying a tranquility that resonates with calm and peace. Its delicate nods to the East, a direction associated with life's beginnings, suggest a harmonious balance, amplifying positive energies and diffusing negative ones. However, Feng Shui is distinctively personal and interpretations may vary.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Siberian spring beauty

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Indian horse-chestnut
Indian horse-chestnut
Indian horse-chestnut is a deciduous tree that produces a profusion of white blossoms, making it a popular ornamental. It's grown as a large bonsai due to its blooms and sizeable leaves. Its foliage has also been used as fodder for cattle. The heavy amount of poisonous saponins in the seeds can be dangerous to fish and some animals.
Indian coleus
Indian coleus
Indian coleus (Plectranthus barbatus) is a tropical perennial plant in the coleus family. It blooms from fall to spring with 25 cm flower spikes covered in electric blue blossoms. A perfect companion to salvias, this prolific blooming plant will complement any garden. Thrives in full sun or partial shade in rich, well-drained soil. Not frost tolerant.
Indian coffee plum
Indian coffee plum
Indian coffee plum (Flacourtia jangomas) is a small but popular plum tree found in both lowlands and mountains. It is cultivated in many countries for both its wood and its fruit. In India, the wood is harvested as an affordable substitute for hardwoods such as teak. The fruit is widely eaten across South and Southeast Asia and is used in preserves and pickles.
Inca-peanut
Inca-peanut
Inca-peanut is a climbing vine of the Amazon river basin. This tropical plant is recognizable by its star-shaped, green seed pods that mature to blackish brown. The leaves and raw seeds are reported to be toxic.
Ifafa lily
Ifafa lily
Ifafa lily is a tropical and subtropical bulbous flowering herb. It has lovely fragrant flowers that are pollinated by night-flying moths. The attractive sweet-scented blooms and the ease of cultivation, which is atypical for the genus, make ifafa lily a popular garden plant.
Hyssopleaf thoroughwort
Hyssopleaf thoroughwort
Hyssopleaf thoroughwort (Eupatorium hyssopifolium) produces clouds of small, white flowers during fall, which attract moths, bees, and butterflies. It tolerates salt, it resists mildew, and it resists deer and other herbivores. In winter, it dries attractively, providing seeds for birds.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Siberian spring beauty
Claytonia sibirica
Also known as: Siberian miner's lettuce, Petrolia pink
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
4 to 8
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Care Guide for Siberian spring beauty

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Questions About Siberian spring beauty

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Key Facts About Siberian spring beauty

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Attributes of Siberian spring beauty

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual, Biennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer, Fall, Late winter
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
5 cm to 40 cm
Spread
20 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
8 mm to 2 cm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Stem Color
Green
White
Pink
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 35 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer
Growth Rate:Moderate
With a moderate growth rate in spring and summer, siberian spring beauty experiences a steady increase in height and foliage density. Siberian spring beauty's reassuringly paced expansion allows time for ample nutrient absorption, fostering healthier, lushly leafed specimens. Its growth rate simultaneously supports abundant flowering during the extended daylight of summer. Surges in growth might occasionally occur during particularly sunny, rain-laden springs, reflecting siberian spring beauty's adaptability.
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Symbolism

Scientific Classification of Siberian spring beauty

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Common Pests & Diseases About Siberian spring beauty

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Common issues for Siberian spring beauty based on 10 million real cases
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Gall
Gall Gall Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Solutions: While galls may look alarming, the physical structures themselves pose little threat to the plant or tree and do not require chemical treatment. If the galls are unsightly, they can be removed using sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruners or loppers. Discard or destroy all removed plant parts. It is important to treat the underlying cause, as insects or diseases can create long-term damage if left untreated. After identifying the pest, natural or chemical may be used, depending upon individual gardening preferences. To treat pests naturally apply an insecticidal soap. Dilute 1 tablespoon of soap per quart of water in a spray bottle and mix gently. Spray the entire plant until the leaves are dripping, making sure to coat the underside and tops. Re-spray every 2 to 3 days. To treat organically apply neem oil, a naturally occurring pesticide, per label directions every 7 days until pests are eradicated. To treat chemically apply an insecticidal foliar spray. Follow the dosing instructions provided by the manufacturer on the product label. For fungal or bacterial causes, apply a bactericide or copper-based fungicide in the spring, following the dosing instructions provided on the product label.
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars Caterpillars Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Learn More About the Caterpillars more
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown spot
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Gall
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Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Overview
Overview
A general symptom of plant irritation, a gall is a spherical or lumpy, tumor-like growth that appears on leaves, stems, branches and trunks of various plants, especially trees. Galls form around a potential problem or irritation, like a pearl forming around a bit of sand in an oyster shell, to separate the cause from the rest of the plant. Many form around insect damage or a localized infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Abnormal growths appear on leaves or other parts of the plant. The brown or brightly colored bumps may be simple or complicated structures.
  • Leaf galls appear on most herbaceous plants and trees. They are more prone to develop on new growth and following mild winters in which insects and diseases were not killed by the cold.
  • Leaf galls look like leaf curls, nipples, blisters, or erineums (hairy growths) and can occur on upper or lower leaf surfaces.
  • Bud or flower galls cause these parts to be deformed in size or shape.
  • Stem and twig galls cause deformed growth on twigs and stems, with symptom severity ranging from slight swelling to large, knot-like growth.
  • Stunted plant growth is possible, as galls steal nutrients from the plant.
  • Long-lasting damage can occur if there are many galls or galls present for a long period of time.
It's important to note that galls, especially leaf galls, are extremely common. Noticing galls is not a cause to panic – most plants will have galls from time to time. However, it is when they are widespread or long-lasting that steps will need to be taken to remove them.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are many different processes and organisms that produce galls. Some appear when sap-sucking insects feed on leaves; some shelter developing insect eggs; some develop as a response to fungal or bacterial infection.
The most common culprits include:
  • Feeding or egg-laying mites and insects - the saliva and other secretions cause the plants to produce more growth hormones.
  • High hormone production resulting in increased cell numbers or cell size (because of this, mature plants tend not to be affected).
  • Fungal infection
  • Galls forming on leaf blades and sheaths are more often caused by viruses or bacteria.
  • Nematodes can also cause galls to form on plants, but these tend to form in the roots.
  • Parasitic plants such as mistletoe can cause galls on their hosts.
Solutions
Solutions
While galls may look alarming, the physical structures themselves pose little threat to the plant or tree and do not require chemical treatment. If the galls are unsightly, they can be removed using sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruners or loppers. Discard or destroy all removed plant parts.
It is important to treat the underlying cause, as insects or diseases can create long-term damage if left untreated. After identifying the pest, natural or chemical may be used, depending upon individual gardening preferences.
  • To treat pests naturally apply an insecticidal soap. Dilute 1 tablespoon of soap per quart of water in a spray bottle and mix gently. Spray the entire plant until the leaves are dripping, making sure to coat the underside and tops. Re-spray every 2 to 3 days.
  • To treat organically apply neem oil, a naturally occurring pesticide, per label directions every 7 days until pests are eradicated.
  • To treat chemically apply an insecticidal foliar spray. Follow the dosing instructions provided by the manufacturer on the product label.
  • For fungal or bacterial causes, apply a bactericide or copper-based fungicide in the spring, following the dosing instructions provided on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent the common causes of gall:
  • Rake up all fallen leaves at the end of the growing season, and dispose of the leaves and all other plant debris to get rid of sites where gall producers can overwinter.
  • Avoid over-fertilizing plants, as it induces stress, making them more susceptible to pest problems.
  • Keep plants well-watered, preventing drought stress.
  • Apply dormant oil in early spring to control leaf-eating insects.
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Caterpillars
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Caterpillars
Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.
Overview
Overview
Caterpillars can cause problems for home gardeners. If not managed, these insects can defoliate a plant in just a matter of days. However, home gardeners face a challenge because these caterpillars eventually turn into beautiful butterflies and moths, which are important for pollination and the general ecosystem.
There are thousands of different species of caterpillars and many will only target certain plants. If caterpillars are posing a problem, they can be removed by hand, or gardeners can use insect-proof netting to protect their valuable plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. During the warmer months, butterflies and moths that visit gardens will lay their eggs on the underside of leaves.
When the tiny eggs hatch, the young larvae emerge and start feeding on the leaves of the plant. Depending on how many larvae have hatched, they can easily defoliate the plant in a very short period of time. Caterpillars will shed their skin as they grow, around 4 or 5 times during this feeding cycle.
Symptoms of caterpillars eating plants appear as holes in the leaves. The edges of the leaves may be eaten away as well, and flowers can be affected as well.
Some are easy to see, but others need to be searched for. This is because their bodies are often camouflaged to look like part of the plant. Gardeners need to look carefully along the stems of the plant as well as under the leaves. Also, look for tiny white, yellow, or brown eggs that can be found in groups on the underside of leaves.
Once the caterpillar is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa or chrysalis. Then, after a period of time that varies according to the species, a butterfly or moth will emerge from the pupa and the cycle begins again.
Solutions
Solutions
Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers.
For severe cases:
  1. Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects.
  2. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans.
  3. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps.
For less severe cases:
  1. Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water.
  2. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention may require less effort than attempts to eradicate infestations that have already begun. Here are our top steps for prevention:
  1. Monitor plants. Check plants regularly for caterpillar eggs on leaves. If they do not belong to an endangered species, they should be squished.
  2. Use insect netting. Cover plants with insect netting to prevent butterflies and moths from laying eggs on plants.
  3. Apply diatomaceous earth. Apply DE to plants early in the season and reapply after rain.
  4. Encourage plant diversity. This will attract predatory insects including parasitic wasps.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Siberian spring beauty

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Habitat of Siberian spring beauty

Damp woods, shaded streamsides, thickets of red alder, dogwood, vine-leaf maple, moist shaded coniferous forests
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Siberian spring beauty

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Siberian Spring Beauty Growth and Care

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Plants Related to Siberian spring beauty

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun, Full shade
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The siberian spring beauty flourishes under a generous amount of sun exposure but shows adaptability in lesser lit areas, even in complete shadow. Originating from environments with diverse light conditions influences this robust sunlight tolerance. Overexposure can cause scorching while insufficient light may lead to slow growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Siberian spring beauty thrives in full sunlight and is commonly grown outdoors where it receives ample sunlight. When placed in rooms with inadequate lighting, symptoms of light deficiency may not be readily apparent.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Siberian spring beauty may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Siberian spring beauty enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Siberian spring beauty thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
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