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Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
Coix lacryma-jobi
Also known as : Tear grass, Adley millet, Coixseed
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Adlay

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Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
8 to 11
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
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Adlay
Water
Water
Twice per week
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
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Questions About Adlay

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Adlay?
To water Adlay, you can use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, a watering can, or just about any other common watering tool. Generally, Adlay is not too picky about how they receive their water, as they can live off of rainwater, tap water, or filtered water. Often, you should try not to water this plant from overhead, as doing so can damage the leaves and flowers and may lead to disease as well. At times, the best method for watering this plant is to set up a drip irrigation system. These systems work well for Adlay as they apply water evenly and directly to the soil. For one Adlay that grows in a container, you can use a similar watering approach while changing the tools you use. To water a container-grown Adlay, use a cup, watering can, or your tap to apply water directly to the soil.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Adlay too much or too little?
The remedy for underwatering Adlay is somewhat obvious. When you notice that your plant lacks moisture, simply begin watering it on a more regular basis. The issue of overwatering can be a much more dire situation, especially if you fail to notice it early. When your Adlay is overwatered, it may contract diseases that lead to its decline and death. The best way to prevent this outcome is to choose a proper growing location, one that receives plenty of sunlight to help dry the soil and has good enough drainage to allow excess water to drain rather than pooling and causing waterlogged soils. If you overwater your Adlay that lives in a pot, you may need to consider changing it to a new pot. Your previous container may not have contained soil with good drainage or may not have had sufficient drainage holes. As you repot your overwatered Adlay, make sure to add loose soils and to use a pot that drains efficiently.
Read More more
How often should I water my Adlay?
Adlay needs water regularly throughout the growing season. Beginning in spring, you should plan to water this plant about once per week. As the season presses on and grows warmer, you may need to increase your watering rate to about two to three times per week. Exceeding at this rate can be detrimental to your Adlay. With that said, you should also ensure that the soil in which your Adlay grows remains relatively moist but not wet, regardless of how often you must water to make that the case. Watering Adlay that lives in a pot is a bit different. Generally, you'll need to increase your watering frequency, as the soil in a pot can heat up and dry out a bit faster than ground soil. As such, you should plan to water a container-grown Adlay a few times per week in most cases, versus just once per week for an in-ground plant.
Read More more
How much water does my Adlay need?
There are a few different ways you can go about determining how much water to give to your Adlay. Some gardeners choose to pick their water volume based on feeling the soil for moisture. That method suggests that you should water until you feel that the first six inches of soil have become moist. Alternatively, you can use a set measurement to determine how much to water your Adlay. Typically, you should give your Adlay about two gallons of water per week, depending on how hot it is and how quickly the soil becomes dry. However, following strict guidelines like that can lead to overwatering if your plant requires less than two gallons per week for whatever reason. When growing Adlay in a container, you will need to use a different method to determine how much water to supply. Typically, you should give enough water to moisten all of the layers of soil that have become dry. To test if that is the case, you can simply stick your finger in the soil to feel for moisture. You can also water the soil until you notice a slight trickle of excess water exiting the drainage holes of your pot.
Read More more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Adlay enough?
It can be somewhat difficult to avoid overwatering your Adlay. On the one hand, these plants have relatively deep roots that require you to moisten the soil weekly. On the other hand, Adlay are plants that are incredibly susceptible to root rot. Along with root rot, your Adlay may also experience browning as a result of overwatering. Underwatering is far less likely for your Adlay as these plants can survive for a while in the absence of supplemental watering. However, if you go too long without giving this plant water, it will likely begin to wilt. You may also notice dry leaves.
Read More more
How should I water my Adlay through the seasons?
You can expect your Adlay’s water needs to increase as the season moves on. During spring, you should water about once per week. Then, as the summer heat arrives, you will likely need to give a bit more water to your Adlay, at times increasing to about three times per week. This is especially true of Adlay that grow in containers, as the soil in a container is far more likely to dry out faster than ground soil when the weather is warm. In autumn, while your Adlay is still in bloom, it may need a bit less water as the temperature has likely declined, and the sun is no longer as strong as it was in summer.
Read More more
How should I water my Adlay at different growth stages?
Adlay will move through several different growth stages throughout the year, some of which may require more water than others. For example, you will probably start your Adlay as a seed. While the seed germinates, you should plant to give more water than your Adlay will need later in life, watering often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture. After a few weeks, your Adlay will grow above the soil and may need slightly less water than at the seedling phase. Then, once this plant is mature, you can begin to use the regular watering frequency of about once per week. As flower development takes place, you may need to give slightly more water to aid the process.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering Adlay indoors and outdoors?
There are several reasons why most Adlay grow outdoors rather than indoors. The first is that these plants typically grow to tall. The second reason is that Adlay needs more daily sunlight than most indoor growing locations can provide. If you are able to provide a suitable indoor growing location, you may find that you need to give your Adlay water a bit more often than you would in an outdoor growing location. Part of the reason for this is that indoor growing locations tend to be a lot drier than outdoor ones due to HVAC units. The other reason for this is that soil in containers can dry out relatively quickly as well compared to soil in the ground.
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Key Facts About Adlay

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Attributes of Adlay

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
91 cm to 1.2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Green
Fruit Color
Black
White
Silver
Gray
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Summer, Fall

Scientific Classification of Adlay

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Common Pests & Diseases About Adlay

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Common issues for Adlay based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Fruit rot
Fruit rot Fruit rot
Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Aphids
Aphids Aphids
Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Solutions: Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods. For less severe cases: Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants. Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off. Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings. For severe cases: Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts. Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
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Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
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Fruit rot
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
  1. Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
  2. Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
  3. Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
  4. Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
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Aphids
plant poor
Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Overview
Overview
Aphids, also known as plant lice, can appear on almost any garden plant. These pests are tear-drop shaped, soft-bodied, and 3 mm or less in size.
Aphids can occur in all seasons, but they reproduce more quickly in warmer weather. Therefore, infestations are likely to become severe in late spring through early fall.
These pests feed on plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, and flowers. While aphids feed on a large variety of plants, small plants are most susceptible to extreme damage. Aphids are more likely to occur on plants that are unhealthy due to insufficient light, nutrients, or watering problems, plants that have been excessively fertilized with nitrogens, and those that are in shock from pruning or transplanting.
Aphids are easy to control if they are caught early. If not treated early on, populations can quickly grow and cause major damage. In severe cases, entire plants may die.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Aphids are often seen before they have had a chance to do a lot of damage. These insects can be found in clusters under the leaves or on stems. They may be green, brown, white, yellow, or white.
Aphids secrete a sugary substance on plants known as "honeydew." While it is not harmful to the plant, it may be a telltale sign that these pests are present, and if left on the plant it can cause a black fungus known as sooty mold to take hold.
Aphids damage appears as many small dots known as stippling. If the pests are not removed, leaves may turn yellow or die. Leaves and stems may also become twisted.
A large number of ants in the area may also indicate an aphids problem. Ants take care of aphids in order to eat the honeydew that they secrete.
Solutions
Solutions
Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods.
For less severe cases:
  • Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants.
  • Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off.
  • Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings.
For severe cases:
  • Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants.
  • Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts.
Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
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Distribution of Adlay

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Habitat of Adlay

Wet places in grassland in the foothills
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Adlay

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Adlay Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Adlay craves an abundance of solar exposure for healthy growth. The plant hails from habitats where luminous rays are plentiful. At different stages of development, its photosynthesis can hum along with moderate sun. However, a shortage or overabundance of sun may harm the plant, disrupting its growth or causing withering.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
1-2 feet
The ideal time to transplant adlay is during late spring to early summer (S2-S3), as this season provides the best conditions for growth. Adlay requires a sunny, well-drained location for optimum growth. A friendly reminder: always fertilize the planting hole before transplanting for better root establishment.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Adlay is indigenous to environments where temperatures generally range from 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). In its preferred settings, adjustment for temperature is often unnecessary across varying seasons.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The adlay plant is deemed harmonious with the Northeast direction in Feng Shui culture. This stems from the plant's earthy, grounding energy, which resonates with the Earth element dominant in that direction. However, interpretations can vary, respecting the fluid nature of Feng Shui perspectives.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Adlay

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Strangler Fig
Strangler Fig
Strangler Fig (Ficus thonningii) is an evergreen tree with multiple uses. The fruits are food for both humans and animals, the bark can be used to create fiber cloth, and the wood is used as timber and fuel. The scientific epithet refers to Peter Thonning (1775-1848), who was a Danish plant collector.
Mexican fireplant
Mexican fireplant
Mexican fireplant is native to tropical America, but it has been naturalized in other tropical and subtropical regions in the world. *Euphorbia heterophylla* is a poisonous plant to humans and livestock. It contains a toxic milky sap which can cause strong skin irritation.
Dove weed
Dove weed
Dove weed is an invasive weed that appears in many southern lawns. It has thick, dark green leaves and clusters of small bluish flowers. It is also called Turkey Mullein because turkeys and doves are attracted to its seeds, however, the foliage is toxic to animals.
Turkey tangle
Turkey tangle
Phyla nodiflora is a perennial herb that's referred to as turkey tangle. It is widely used as an ornamental ground cover plant when grown intentionally, but also has a reputation as a lawn weed. Turkey tangle is not an uncommon sight around marshes, where ducks and geese will munch on its leaves.
Tutsan
Tutsan
Tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum) is related to the more common St. John's Wort. It is native to Europe, Iran, and the Mediterranean region. This fast-growing plant is considered invasive in some countries - particularly in Australia where neither livestock nor any wild animals will eat it.
Common stork's-bill
Common stork's-bill
Common stork's-bill (Erodium cicutarium) is a hardy species most at home in deserts or other dry conditions. Common stork's-bill is also referred to as pinweed. It has pin-shaped or stork-bill-shaped seed pods that burst explosively to propel seeds away from the parent plant. The unique spiral tails of the seeds then push them slowly into the dirt as the air around changes humidity and temperature.
Poison ivy
Poison ivy
In pop culture, poison ivy is a symbol of an obnoxious weed because, despite its unthreatening looks, it gives a highly unpleasant contact rash to the unfortunate person who touches it. Still, it is commonly eaten by many animals, and the seeds are a favorite with birds. The leaves turn bright red in fall. Its sister species, Western poison ivy (Toxicodendron rydbergii), is not considered to be invasive in the United States, but is noxious in Australia and New Zealand.
Pokeweed
Pokeweed
Although its berries look juicy and tempting, the fruits and the root of pokeweed are toxic and should not be eaten. Pokeweed is considered a pest species by farmers but is nevertheless often grown as an ornamental plant. Its berries can be made into pokeberry ink as well.
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Related Plants
Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
Adlay
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Adlay
Adlay
Coix lacryma-jobi
Also known as: Tear grass, Adley millet, Coixseed
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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Care Guide for Adlay

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Questions About Adlay

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Adlay?
more
What should I do if I water my Adlay too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Adlay?
more
How much water does my Adlay need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Adlay enough?
more
How should I water my Adlay through the seasons?
more
How should I water my Adlay at different growth stages?
more
What's the difference between watering Adlay indoors and outdoors?
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plant_info

Key Facts About Adlay

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Attributes of Adlay

Lifespan
Annual, Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Mid spring, Late spring
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Plant Height
91 cm to 1.2 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Green
Fruit Color
Black
White
Silver
Gray
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Summer, Fall
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Scientific Classification of Adlay

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Common Pests & Diseases About Adlay

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Common issues for Adlay based on 10 million real cases
Leaf scorch
Leaf scorch Leaf scorch Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Solutions: The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms. Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves. Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement. Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation. If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach. If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry. Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections. If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Learn More About the Leaf scorch more
Fruit rot
Fruit rot Fruit rot Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection. Chemical fungicides may become necessary. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Learn More About the Fruit rot more
Aphids
Aphids Aphids Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Solutions: Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods. For less severe cases: Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants. Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off. Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings. For severe cases: Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants. Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts. Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
Learn More About the Aphids more
close
Leaf scorch
plant poor
Leaf scorch
Leaf blight causes leaves to dry out and turn brown starting at their tips.
Overview
Overview
Leaf scorch refers to two general conditions: physiological leaf scorch and bacterial leaf scorch. It causes leaves to discolor starting along the margins, and eventually die.
Leaf scorch development is most common in the hot, dry season, becoming most noticeable in late summer. However, it can occur at other times of the year. It most often affects young trees and shrubs, but it can also affect flowers, vegetables, and other plants.
Leaf scorch can get progressively worse over multiple seasons. If the root causes are not addressed, leaf scorch can lead to plant death.
While you cannot reverse the damage caused by physiological leaf scorch, you can prevent further damage. With proper management, plants will fully recover. However, there is no cure for bacterial leaf scorch, which is a systemic infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • Yellow, brown, or blackened leaves starting with the leaf margins
  • Dying twig tips on trees and shrubs as leaves die and fall
  • Often there is a bright yellow border line between the dead and living leaf tissue
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are numerous contributing causes of leaf scorch.
Bacterial leaf scorch is caused by the bacterium Xylella fastidiosa. The bacteria block the xylem vessels, preventing water movement. Symptoms may vary across species.
Physiological leaf scorch most commonly occurs when a plant cannot take up enough water. Numerous conditions can lead to this issue, particularly an unhealthy root system. Some causes of an unhealthy root system include overly-compacted soil, recent tillage, root compaction and severing due to pavement or other construction, drought, and overly-saturated soils.
Potassium deficiency can contribute to leaf scorch. Since plants need potassium to move water, they cannot properly move water when there is a lack of potassium.
Too much fertilizer can also cause leaf scorch symptoms. The accumulation of salts (including nutrient salts from fertilizers, as well as salt water) accumulate at the leaf margins and may build up to concentrations that burn the tissues.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution to leaf scorch will depend on the cause, however, in general all cultural care methods that improve plant health and root functionality will reduce symptoms.
  • Mulching the root zone (preferably with wood chip mulch) helps retain moisture, reduce evaporation, and promotes a healthy, functional root environment that is critical for water movement to the leaves.
  • Check the root collar for girdling or circling roots that strangle the trunk and limit water and nutrient movement.
  • Protect trees from severe root damage of nearby construction and excavation.
  • If fertilizer burn is to blame, irrigate the soil deeply to flush out excess fertilizer salts. However, keep in mind that fertilizer runoff is an environmental pollutant. Avoiding excess fertilization in the first place is the best approach.
  • If soil testing has revealed a potassium deficiency, apply a potassium fertilizer and water well. Even if you have enough potassium in the soil, plants will not be able to take it up if the soil is consistently too dry.
  • Severely affected twigs may be removed using a pair of sharp and sanitized pruning shears, as weakened branches are susceptible to secondary infections.
  • If your plant has bacterial leaf scorch, there is no cure. Antibiotic injections applied by a professional can reduce symptoms for a season, however, the above cultural management methods are the best options to reduce symptoms and prolong life. An infected plant will likely die within ten years.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Physiological leaf scorch is best avoided by making sure your plants have a healthy, functional root system and access to enough water. Water regularly, especially on the mornings of excessively hot, sunny days. Deep, infrequent irrigation is better than shallow, frequent irrigation.
  • Have your soil tested and apply the proper nutrients. Be sure to not over-apply fertilizers.
  • Make sure your plants’ roots have room to expand. Avoid compacted soil as well and avoid paving areas above the root zone. Do not till or disturb the soil where plant roots are growing.
  • Plant new trees and shrubs in the fall, so that they have the maximum amount of time to become established before the environmental stresses of the next summer.
  • Remove any dead or dying plant tissue that may harbor secondary infections.
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Fruit rot
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Fruit rot
Soft rot in the fruit can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit rot is quite common, and there are a large number of factors that can lie at the heart of this problem. Symptoms also vary from fruit to fruit and from cause to cause, but in general, one can recognize fruit that is rotten or starting to rot. Many of the most common causes of rotting are related to fungal diseases, which enter the fruit through wounds such as those caused by birds. The disease then spreads outwards from the wound. From there it can spread to neighboring fruit or be carried by the wind to plants further away.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Below are some of the broader symptoms to look out for in cases of fruit rot. If this occurs on just one or two fruit it may just be as the result of a small-scale infection, but if it is widespread then a fungal infection problem is likely.
  1. Small brown spots appear on the fruit.
  2. Brown spots expand, normally in concentric circles and the center starts to go soft and mushy.
  3. Mushiness spreads and grey or brown powdery pustules start to coat the fruit.
  4. Some fruit will drop but others may remain and gradually turn mummified.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Fruit rot is often caused by fungal infection. These fungi overwinter on fallen fruit, and then the spores are spread by the wind the following spring. Birds and sap-sucking insects can also act as vectors. Entry to new fruit is made considerably easier if there are wounds of any kind through which the spores can penetrate the skin. The healthier the tree or plant, the better able it is to defend itself from infection.
Solutions
Solutions
  1. Prune out and destroy infected spurs and branches.
  2. Correct spacing between plants to reduce wind-born infection.
  3. Chemical fungicides may become necessary.
  4. Bird deterrents and biological or chemical treatments for insects will reduce fruit damage, making it harder for fungal infections to take hold.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent pests and disease infection:
  1. Pick fruits on time. Remove fruit once ripe to prevent opportunities for pests and fungal infections to take hold.
  2. Rake and clean debris. Remove and bury surrounding plant material that may host diseases.
  3. Prune branches and thin fruit. Remove ripening fruits so they do not touch one another and prune branches to improve air circulation (reducing the wet conditions in which fungi thrive).
  4. Consider preventative use of fungicide prior to fruit forming.
To prevent nutrient deficiency that weakens the plant:
  1. Add mulch. Adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil early in the season will keep moisture even.
  2. Use organic fertilizer. Plants given ammonia-based fertilizer cannot uptake calcium efficiently. Use compost, fish emulsion, liquid kelp or other organic fertilizer.
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Aphids
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Aphids
Aphids are small, pear-shaped insects that come in a variety of semi-translucent colors. They suck sap from plants.
Overview
Overview
Aphids, also known as plant lice, can appear on almost any garden plant. These pests are tear-drop shaped, soft-bodied, and 3 mm or less in size.
Aphids can occur in all seasons, but they reproduce more quickly in warmer weather. Therefore, infestations are likely to become severe in late spring through early fall.
These pests feed on plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, and flowers. While aphids feed on a large variety of plants, small plants are most susceptible to extreme damage. Aphids are more likely to occur on plants that are unhealthy due to insufficient light, nutrients, or watering problems, plants that have been excessively fertilized with nitrogens, and those that are in shock from pruning or transplanting.
Aphids are easy to control if they are caught early. If not treated early on, populations can quickly grow and cause major damage. In severe cases, entire plants may die.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Aphids are often seen before they have had a chance to do a lot of damage. These insects can be found in clusters under the leaves or on stems. They may be green, brown, white, yellow, or white.
Aphids secrete a sugary substance on plants known as "honeydew." While it is not harmful to the plant, it may be a telltale sign that these pests are present, and if left on the plant it can cause a black fungus known as sooty mold to take hold.
Aphids damage appears as many small dots known as stippling. If the pests are not removed, leaves may turn yellow or die. Leaves and stems may also become twisted.
A large number of ants in the area may also indicate an aphids problem. Ants take care of aphids in order to eat the honeydew that they secrete.
Solutions
Solutions
Aphids can be controlled with physical, biological, and chemical methods.
For less severe cases:
  • Dip a cloth in soap water and use it to wipe/rub off all the aphids from plants.
  • Use a hose with a good stream of water to spray them off.
  • Introduce beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings.
For severe cases:
  • Spray plants with a diluted mix of neem oil and insecticidal soap (follow label instructions). Apply in the evening or on a cloudy day to avoid burning plants.
  • Remove and dispose of infected plants or plant parts.
Surrounding plants should also be treated to fully control the problem.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention steps include the following:
  • Avoid buying and transplanting plants with any sign of aphids on them.
  • Keep gardens weeded and remove debris from around plants.
  • Plant a wide diversity of plants to provide food and habitat for beneficial insects that eat aphids. These insects include ladybeetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs.
  • Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides that can kill beneficial insects that eat aphids.
  • Release beneficial insects such as ladybugs and lacewings to prevent large aphids outbreaks.
  • Regularly check for aphids and remove them when they first appear. This is especially important in enclosed areas like greenhouses.
  • Apply a balanced fertilizer in the recommended amount to avoid over-fertilizing.
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Distribution of Adlay

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Habitat of Adlay

Wet places in grassland in the foothills
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Adlay

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Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Adlay craves an abundance of solar exposure for healthy growth. The plant hails from habitats where luminous rays are plentiful. At different stages of development, its photosynthesis can hum along with moderate sun. However, a shortage or overabundance of sun may harm the plant, disrupting its growth or causing withering.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Adlay, a plant that thrives in full sunlight, is commonly grown outdoors with ample sunlight. When cultivated indoors with inadequate light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Adlay may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Adlay enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Adlay thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Adlay is indigenous to environments where temperatures generally range from 68 to 100.4 °F (20 to 38 ℃). In its preferred settings, adjustment for temperature is often unnecessary across varying seasons.
Regional wintering strategies
Adlay has some cold tolerance and generally does not require any additional measures when the temperature is above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. However, if the temperature is expected to drop below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is necessary to take some temporary measures for cold protection, such as wrapping the plant with plastic film, fabric, or other materials. Once the temperature rises again, the protective measures should be removed promptly.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Adlay
Adlay has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may start to droop. In mild cases, they can recover, but in severe cases, the leaves will wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Prior to encountering low temperatures again, wrap the plant with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth, and construct a wind barrier to protect it from the cold wind.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Adlay
During summer, Adlay should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, the leaf tips may become dry and withered, the leaves may curl, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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