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Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Crassula capitella
Also known as : Campfire plant
Campfire crassula (*Crassula* *capitella*) is a plant native to Southern Africa. *Crassula* *capitella* is commonly known as red pagoda, Red Flames or Campfire Plant. This species grows best at temperatures above -1 ℃. The leaves change from green to red with increased exposure to the sun.
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Red pagoda

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Like most succulents, Red pagoda prefers dry soil conditions. Depending on the season, the best time to water them is once every two to three weeks, making sure that the soil has had a chance to dry out fully between watering sessions.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Red pagoda is a tough succulent that can thrive well with the nutrients already found in fresh soil. If you want to boost its growth, you can apply a balanced fertilizer once a year.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic, Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Flower Pots
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Red pagoda
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 12
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
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Questions About Red pagoda

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Red pagoda?
The proper way to water Red pagoda requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Red pagoda will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Red pagoda too much or too little?
An overwatered Red pagoda is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Red pagoda to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Red pagoda shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Red pagoda in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering. While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Red pagoda?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Red pagoda are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry. To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings. Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Red pagoda to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Red pagoda need?
Overall, Red pagoda does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Red pagoda enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Red pagoda, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Red pagoda through the seasons?
As mentioned, Red pagoda needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Red pagodas begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Red pagoda at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Red pagoda will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Red pagoda prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Red pagoda may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Red pagodas can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Red pagoda may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Red pagoda indoors and outdoors?
Growing Red pagodas outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Red pagoda will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Red pagodas at all. Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Key Facts About Red pagoda

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Attributes of Red pagoda

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Late winter
Plant Height
15 cm to 40 cm
Spread
45 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
15 - 38 ℃

Name story

Red pagoda
The plant is known as a red pagoda plant because of its attractive foliage featured with triangular-shaped leaves that form the appearance of architectural pyramids.

Symbolism

Wealth and Prosperity

Usages

Garden Use
Red pagoda is a great choice for groundcover and rock gardens, as it is easily propagated. The deep green triangular leaves are particularly valued for the striking red color they can develop in winter. Coupled with plants like snap dragons and sweet potato vines, it makes a good filler element in basket and container arrangements.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Crassula capitella, so as all Crassula species and all succulents and cacti, have their own mechanism to cope with the lack of water. They have developed their own type of photosynthesis called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM) - they close their stomata during the day and collect CO2 at night, in order to reduce the loss of moisture through evaporation.

Scientific Classification of Red pagoda

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Red pagoda

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Common issues for Red pagoda based on 10 million real cases
Brown blotch
Brown blotch Brown blotch
Brown blotch
Brown Spot is a common fungal disease affecting various plants, including Red pagoda. It manifests as brown lesions on the leaves, interferes with photosynthesis, and reduces plant aesthetics. If untreated, it may cause severe damage and even death of the plant.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
Leaf rot, a devastating disease, severely weakens Red pagoda by breaking down leaf tissue, leading to potential plant death if left untreated. This occurrence is particularly aggressive when plants face poor drainage or overwatering conditions, and in extreme humidity environments.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
What is Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
Brown Spot is a common fungal disease affecting various plants, including Red pagoda. It manifests as brown lesions on the leaves, interferes with photosynthesis, and reduces plant aesthetics. If untreated, it may cause severe damage and even death of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Red pagoda's leaves usually have small, round spots that are brown in the middle and yellow at the edges. As the disease progresses, these spots may coalesce forming larger patches. Severely infected plants may even lose their leaves.
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
1
pathogen
The disease is mainly caused by fungi, particularly Bipolaris oryzae or Drechslera oryzae, which thrive in wet and warm weather conditions.
2
environmental_conditions
Overcrowding and poor air circulation around Red pagoda can also contribute to the disease spread, creating a humid environment favorable for the fungus.
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
1
Non pesticide
pruning: Pruning to improve airflow around the Red pagoda can reduce the disease’s severity.

sanitation: Regularly clean up fallen leaves and debris where the fungus spores may reside.
2
Pesticide
fungicide_application: Apply a suitable fungicide for Brown spot, such as mancozeb, at recommended rates and intervals. Always follow product label instructions.
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plant poor
Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
Leaf rot, a devastating disease, severely weakens Red pagoda by breaking down leaf tissue, leading to potential plant death if left untreated. This occurrence is particularly aggressive when plants face poor drainage or overwatering conditions, and in extreme humidity environments.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf rot first manifests in Red pagoda as water-soaked spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the affected tissue becomes soft, wilts, and appears brown or black. Dead tissue often forms a distinctive rotted odor.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
1
Fungal pathogens
Leaf rot in Red pagoda is primarily caused by certain fungal organisms such as Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium.
2
Environmental conditions
Overly moist conditions from poor drainage or overwatering, often coupled with high humidity, are typically responsible for the outbreak of this disease.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
1
Non pesticide
Trimming and discarding: Remove and dispose of rotted leaves to prevent the disease from spreading.

Changing conditions: Improve drainage, reduce watering, and decrease humidity to make the environment less favorable for fungal growth.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide application: Use a fungicide suitable for leaf rot to prevent the spread of disease.

Routine treatment: Regular treatments during wet or humid seasons can help control the disease.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Plant dried up
plant poor
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Red pagoda

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Habitat of Red pagoda

Terrestrial
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Red pagoda

Red pagoda is native in southern Africa, growing in rocky coastal areas. It is commonly cultivated for use in succulent gardens and as an indoor container plant.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Red Pagoda Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
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Lighting
Full sun
Red pagoda thrives under the open sky, partial shade being tolerable as well. Originating from regions with ample light, intense exposure promotes vibrant color development. Nevertheless, overexposure might result in yellowish leaves or leaf drop, while inadequate light leads to a stretched, less compact appearance.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
10-12 inches
To transplant red pagoda successfully, choose the perfect time from early spring up to late spring, or late fall into early winter, as the ideal season. Ensure a sunny to partially shaded location for optimal growth. When necessary, tenderly loosen roots before settling into its new spot. Enjoy your thriving red pagoda!
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
-5 - 43 ℃
Red pagoda is native to areas where temperatures range from 15 to 38 ℃ (59 to 100.4 ℉). Its temperature preferences fall within this range, but it can tolerate lower temperatures in the winter with proper adjustments. During colder seasons, it is advised to provide adequate light, water, and warmth to prevent damage to the plant.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Propagation
Spring, Summer
Red pagoda, which is propagated mainly through herbaceous cuttings, is relatively easy to propagate. The ideal time for propagation is in spring and summer. Successful propagation can be indicated by the emergence of new roots and leaves. Propagation-related tips include ensuring the cuttings are healthy and using a well-draining soil mix.
Propagation Techniques
Overwinter
-5 - 43 ℃
Red pagoda hails from the mild South African climate, naturally adapting to winter through decreased growth and an emphasis on preserving energy reserves. In domestic gardens, over-winter care involves ensuring minimal moisture and low lighting conditions, mimicking its natural winter surroundings. Appropriate care of red pagoda in winter bolsters its vitality, enabling it to reach its distinct fiery pinnacle come spring.
Winter Techniques
Brown blotch
Brown Spot is a common fungal disease affecting various plants, including Red pagoda. It manifests as brown lesions on the leaves, interferes with photosynthesis, and reduces plant aesthetics. If untreated, it may cause severe damage and even death of the plant.
Learn More About the Disease
Leaf rot
Leaf rot, a devastating disease, severely weakens Red pagoda by breaking down leaf tissue, leading to potential plant death if left untreated. This occurrence is particularly aggressive when plants face poor drainage or overwatering conditions, and in extreme humidity environments.
Learn More About the Disease
Feng shui direction
South
The red pagoda plant's vibrant tones mirror the intensity of the South aspect, resonating with its stimulating fire element. Hence, it may be thought of to support lively and warm interactions. However, this interpretation remains subjective within the realm of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Peruvian lily
Peruvian lily
It grows from bulbs up to 4.5 cm in diameter. The slightly glaucous leaves, which usually appear by flowering time, have short petioles and blades (laminae) which are 20 cm long by 10 cm wide. The flowers are umbellate, on a stem (scape) up to 60 cm in height, pale red in colour, with stamens with prominent long filaments.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Red pagoda
Crassula capitella
Also known as: Campfire plant
Campfire crassula (*Crassula* *capitella*) is a plant native to Southern Africa. *Crassula* *capitella* is commonly known as red pagoda, Red Flames or Campfire Plant. This species grows best at temperatures above -1 ℃. The leaves change from green to red with increased exposure to the sun.
Water
Water
Every 3 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
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Questions About Red pagoda

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
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Key Facts About Red pagoda

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Attributes of Red pagoda

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Summer
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Late winter
Plant Height
15 cm to 40 cm
Spread
45 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Pink
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
15 - 38 ℃
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Name story

Red pagoda
The plant is known as a red pagoda plant because of its attractive foliage featured with triangular-shaped leaves that form the appearance of architectural pyramids.

Symbolism

Wealth and Prosperity

Usages

Garden Use
Red pagoda is a great choice for groundcover and rock gardens, as it is easily propagated. The deep green triangular leaves are particularly valued for the striking red color they can develop in winter. Coupled with plants like snap dragons and sweet potato vines, it makes a good filler element in basket and container arrangements.

Trivia and Interesting Facts

Crassula capitella, so as all Crassula species and all succulents and cacti, have their own mechanism to cope with the lack of water. They have developed their own type of photosynthesis called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM) - they close their stomata during the day and collect CO2 at night, in order to reduce the loss of moisture through evaporation.

Scientific Classification of Red pagoda

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Red pagoda

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Common issues for Red pagoda based on 10 million real cases
Brown blotch
Brown blotch Brown blotch Brown blotch
Brown Spot is a common fungal disease affecting various plants, including Red pagoda. It manifests as brown lesions on the leaves, interferes with photosynthesis, and reduces plant aesthetics. If untreated, it may cause severe damage and even death of the plant.
Learn More About the Brown blotch more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot, a devastating disease, severely weakens Red pagoda by breaking down leaf tissue, leading to potential plant death if left untreated. This occurrence is particularly aggressive when plants face poor drainage or overwatering conditions, and in extreme humidity environments.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Plant dried up
Plant dried up Plant dried up Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
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Brown blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
What is Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
Brown Spot is a common fungal disease affecting various plants, including Red pagoda. It manifests as brown lesions on the leaves, interferes with photosynthesis, and reduces plant aesthetics. If untreated, it may cause severe damage and even death of the plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Red pagoda's leaves usually have small, round spots that are brown in the middle and yellow at the edges. As the disease progresses, these spots may coalesce forming larger patches. Severely infected plants may even lose their leaves.
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
1
pathogen
The disease is mainly caused by fungi, particularly Bipolaris oryzae or Drechslera oryzae, which thrive in wet and warm weather conditions.
2
environmental_conditions
Overcrowding and poor air circulation around Red pagoda can also contribute to the disease spread, creating a humid environment favorable for the fungus.
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Red pagoda?
1
Non pesticide
pruning: Pruning to improve airflow around the Red pagoda can reduce the disease’s severity.

sanitation: Regularly clean up fallen leaves and debris where the fungus spores may reside.
2
Pesticide
fungicide_application: Apply a suitable fungicide for Brown spot, such as mancozeb, at recommended rates and intervals. Always follow product label instructions.
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Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
Leaf rot, a devastating disease, severely weakens Red pagoda by breaking down leaf tissue, leading to potential plant death if left untreated. This occurrence is particularly aggressive when plants face poor drainage or overwatering conditions, and in extreme humidity environments.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf rot first manifests in Red pagoda as water-soaked spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses, the affected tissue becomes soft, wilts, and appears brown or black. Dead tissue often forms a distinctive rotted odor.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
1
Fungal pathogens
Leaf rot in Red pagoda is primarily caused by certain fungal organisms such as Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia, or Fusarium.
2
Environmental conditions
Overly moist conditions from poor drainage or overwatering, often coupled with high humidity, are typically responsible for the outbreak of this disease.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Red pagoda?
1
Non pesticide
Trimming and discarding: Remove and dispose of rotted leaves to prevent the disease from spreading.

Changing conditions: Improve drainage, reduce watering, and decrease humidity to make the environment less favorable for fungal growth.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide application: Use a fungicide suitable for leaf rot to prevent the spread of disease.

Routine treatment: Regular treatments during wet or humid seasons can help control the disease.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Plant dried up
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Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
  1. Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
  2. Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
  3. Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
  4. Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
  5. Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
  6. Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
  1. Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
  2. Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
  3. Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
  1. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
  2. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
  3. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
  4. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
  5. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
  1. Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
  2. Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
  3. Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
  4. Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
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distribution

Distribution of Red pagoda

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Habitat of Red pagoda

Terrestrial
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Red pagoda

Red pagoda is native in southern Africa, growing in rocky coastal areas. It is commonly cultivated for use in succulent gardens and as an indoor container plant.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Red pagoda

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Red pagoda thrives under the open sky, partial shade being tolerable as well. Originating from regions with ample light, intense exposure promotes vibrant color development. Nevertheless, overexposure might result in yellowish leaves or leaf drop, while inadequate light leads to a stretched, less compact appearance.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Red pagoda is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your red pagoda may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Red pagoda require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Red pagoda is native to areas where temperatures range from 15 to 38 ℃ (59 to 100.4 ℉). Its temperature preferences fall within this range, but it can tolerate lower temperatures in the winter with proper adjustments. During colder seasons, it is advised to provide adequate light, water, and warmth to prevent damage to the plant.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Red pagoda, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Red pagoda
Red pagoda is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Red pagoda
During summer, Red pagoda should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Lifespan
1 Year
Marketing Cookies
Marketing cookies are used by advertising companies to serve ads that are relevant to your interests.
Cookie Name Source Purpose Lifespan
_fbp Facebook Pixel A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here. 1 Year
_adj Adjust This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here. 1 Year
Cookie Name
_fbp
Source
Facebook Pixel
Purpose
A conversion pixel tracking that we use for retargeting campaigns. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year

Cookie Name
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Source
Adjust
Purpose
This cookie provides mobile analytics and attribution services that enable us to measure and analyze the effectiveness of marketing campaigns, certain events and actions within the Application. Learn more here.
Lifespan
1 Year
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