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Add to My Garden Wild carrot
Daucus carota
Also known as: Queen anne's lace, Bird's nest
The wild carrot is a common flowering plant with light, delicate flowers. Originally native to Europe and Asia, it has also spread to North America and Australia. Studies of historical paintings suggest that the wild carrot was cultivated in Turkey, Spain, and North Africa for centuries.
3 to 9
Hardiness Zones
Weeds
Care Guide for Wild carrot
Water
Wild carrot requires approximately 2.5cm of water a week, either through rainfall or irrigation. If irrigating, use a drip irrigator or soaker hose as Wild carrot prefers a slow deep soak. Try to water in the morning and ensure that the soil is thoroughly moist for the full moisture benefit.
Fertilization
If the soil is fertile, your wild carrot will survive without fertilizer. Once the carrot tops reach 8 cm, apply a granular fertilizer at 50% of the manufacturer’s recommendation. Try to use a low nitrogen but high potassium or phosphate product. Once applied, water well.
Soil
Sand, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
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Wild carrot
Water
Twice per week
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Wild carrot
Water
Twice per week
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Wild carrot
Water
Twice per week
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Wild carrot
Watering 
Pruning 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Wild carrot?
Not only does the Wild carrot have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Wild carrot is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Wild carrot. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Wild carrot grows is sufficiently moist.
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What should I do if I water my Wild carrot too much or too little?
If you find that you have overwatered your Wild carrot and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Wild carrot is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.
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How often should I water my Wild carrot?
Overall, Wild carrot requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Wild carrot about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Wild carrot have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.
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How much water does my Wild carrot need?
Since Wild carrot are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Wild carrot should receive. Generally, Wild carrot will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Wild carrot enough?
Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Wild carrot, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Wild carrot is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.
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How should I water my Wild carrot through the seasons?
As alluded to above, your Wild carrot's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Wild carrot about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Wild carrot has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.
The maintenance schedule of Wild carrot will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Wild carrot from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Wild carrot will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Wild carrot will decline significantly.
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What's the difference between watering Wild carrot indoors and outdoors?
Whether you grow Wild carrot indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Wild carrot that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Wild carrot that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Wild carrot healthy.
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Wild carrot based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Solutions: There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected: Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings. Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Overview
Although root deformity is a problem that can occur with just about any type of plant, it tends to be more noticeable in root crops such as carrots, parsnips, or potatoes. In any plant, it is important to address root deformity in its early stages so that they are able to grow to their fullest potential.
Symptom Analysis
There are countless symptoms of root deformity and associated root problems in plants. In fact, these symptoms often co-occur with dozens of others, making it hard to tell which disease, pest, or environmental condition is responsible for a given plant’s suffering and failure to thrive.
Some of the most common symptoms you will see in plants with root deformity problems are:
- Roots that are misshapen, rotten, or stunted
- Roots that become brown and mushy as areas begin to die back
- Stunted growth
- Wilted or yellowing leaves
- Premature leaf drop
- Delayed blooming
Root deformity is not a disease that occurs on its own but is instead a symptom of many other common plant problems. Because of that, it is exceedingly important to examine all the issues to figure out what is going wrong.
Disease Cause
There are several reasons why plants may develop malformed roots.
One of the most common is related to the environment. Environmental conditions related to moisture, soil structure, and nutrient load can commonly cause issues with root formation.
Not all soils are conducive to creating healthy roots. Roots need room to grow, spread, and breathe. When plants are grown in soil that is rocky or composed of heavy clay, it does not give them the opportunity to do so. Roots that do most of the “storage work” for plants, such as those of beets, kohlrabi, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and so on, are most likely to suffer from this cause.
There are various plant diseases that can cause plant roots to become malformed. These are generally plant- and species-specific but can include diseases such as root rot. Clubroot is another disease that typically affects plants in the mustard family, such as cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.
There are even pests, such as root-knot nematodes, that can cause root damage, malformation, and death in a long list of plant species.
Solutions
There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected:
- Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings.
- Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
Prevention
There are several steps for preventing root deformity from impacting your plants;
- Address spacing issues - one of the most common reasons for root deformity is plants that are growing too close together. Space plants according to the recommendations listed on the seed packet or in the planting guidelines.
- Thin plants - some plants benefit from thinning after they have germinated. Consult the planting guidelines for each species, but know that removing all but the healthiest seedlings can provide them with the space they need to grow.
- Improve soil quality - rocky and compacted soils can cause root deformity. Aerate the soil prior to planting and remove as many rocky or clay-dominated areas as possible.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Weed Control
Weeds
Wild carrot (Daucus carota) is a biennial herbaceous plant and a progenitor of the cultivated carrot. It is widespread in its native range – Europe, southwestern Asia, and North Africa – and it spreads equally well as an invasive species in North America, Australia, and other temperate regions. Wild carrot is considered a weed both in its native and naturalized range because of its ability to spread and outcompete other plants. It is a prolific seed producer that competes with and suppresses native plants in grasslands, meadows, and degraded prairies. It also commonly colonizes roadsides, wastelands, and other types of degraded land. Wild carrot can also negatively affect carrot cultivation through genetic pollution.
How to Control it
The best time to remove weeds is before their flowering and fructification, otherwise controlling them can be very difficult. After they have flowered and fructified, their seeds can spread very fast, and hence, the weeds should be removed more often and precautions should be taken in advance in the following year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering the soil with sawdust, straw or black mulches can effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of seedlings. In the winter or spring, this method is often used to inhibit the seeds in the soil from germinating. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, then the method can also be used to prevent more seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Wear gloves or use tools to remove weeds before their fructification. If the soil is too dry, then water the soil thoroughly to make it softer, which can help to remove the root systems of the weeds. After that, deep tillage can be adopted to remove bits of weed roots left in the ground. This method works particularly well for weeds that are low-growing or in their seedling stages. Take care when removing it, as it is allergenic. Mowing: Mowing weeds before their fructification can effectively control their spread. Cut it as close to the ground as possible during its blossom time. Especially for annual weeds, frequent mowing can inhibit their growth and fructification, and thus can remove them effectively within the year. Ploughing: Be sure to plough and pull out all roots of perennial weeds before planting. The roots should be discarded, exposed to the sun for a long time, or buried deep. You can also use the roots to make organic fertilizer and compost the weeds. It can be reduced by crop rotation. It can be effectively removed with herbicide. Note: When removing weeds, especially those which are toxic, thorny and have allergenic sap, be sure to wear gloves and avoid direct contact with them. When removing weeds during their bloom time, be sure to wear special masks to prevent pollen allergy.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Cultivated and waste land, amongst grass
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Wild carrot
Many scholars believed that it is the ancestor of all hybrid carrots. The specific epithet, "carota" is derived from the Greek word, karôton meaning carrot. As it is often grown in the wild, so it is called wild carrot.
Queen anne's lace
This kind of flower looks similar to Queen Anne's lace, which is one of the prestigious clothing accessories. The red flower in the centre is thought to represent a blood droplet in which Queen Anne accidentally pricked herself with a needle while making the lace. Hence, it is called Queen Anne's lace.
Symbolism
Wisdom, purity, sanctuary
Usages
Garden Use
The wild carrot can be kept in gardens and beds. It is ideally grown in vegetable gardens and prized for its edible carrots. The wild carrot has many uses in a large vegetable garden, as it is said to improve Tomato plant production and be good for the climate and soil surrounding Lettuce plants.
Scientific Classification
Related Plants
Chinese mugwort
Chinese mugwort, a member of the daisy family, closely resembles its relative, the Common mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris). However, chinese mugwort has a more intense aroma, which is how the two are distinguished.It can be toxic to highly toxic if consumed, and even handling can cause skin irritation or allergy reactions.
Chinese violet
Chinese violet (Asystasia gangetica) is an erect or climbing plant that can grow to be 91 cm tall. It has weak, hairy stems. It is an invasive plant with seeds that disperse and spread aggressively. Chinese violet is native to Africa but grows on nearly every continent.
Arrowleaf sida
Arrowleaf sida (Sida rhombifolia) is a perennial plant with delicate yellow blooms on stiff, almost woody stems. The stems are used to make brooms, giving it the common name "broom jute." It is also used to make cord and twine.
Orchid tree
Orchid tree (Bauhinia variegata) is a partially deciduous shrub-like tree that can grow from 6 to 8 m tall. Large fragrant flowers resembling orchids blossom from winter to spring. The colors of the flowers range from orchid purple to light pink all in the same blossom. A fast-growing tree that blooms best in full sun makes a spectacular street tree when grown in warm climates.
Chinese silver grass
Chinese silver grass is a perennial grass that can grow 91 to 213 cm. It forms dense clumps from an underground rhizome. The chinese silver grass is grown mainly as an ornamental grass, with silvery leaves and flowers that vary in color based on the cultivar. Be careful where you plant this type of grass; in some zones it can become invasive.
Callery pear
The callery pear is native to China but is considered invasive in the U.S and Australia. Although it does not self-pollinate, it can become invasive by hybridizing with other plants to create fertile fruits that may seed in natural areas. The callery pear creates large populations of fruits that are spread by birds and animals and readily root in disturbed areas. It also forms thick colonies that may compete with other native species for natural resources. Alternative plants include the Trident Maple and the Serviceberry. The callery pear can be controlled by manually pulling young plants, and a range of herbicides such as oil-based herbicides, foliar herbicides, and both basal bark and stump treatments. It is important to remove seed sources as the weed can reinvade areas where it has been previously removed.
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Plant Collection Most Common Herb Golden pothos See More The Golden pothos is a popular flowering house plant that’s commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including “devil’s ivy,” because it is so hard to kill, and can grow in the dark. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, soContinue reading “Most Common Herb”
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10 Wildflowers to Look For in Summer
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Add to My Garden Wild carrot
Daucus carota
Also known as: Queen anne's lace, Bird's nest
3 to 9
Hardiness Zones
Weeds
Care Guide for Wild carrot
Water
Wild carrot requires approximately 2.5cm of water a week, either through rainfall or irrigation. If irrigating, use a drip irrigator or soaker hose as Wild carrot prefers a slow deep soak. Try to water in the morning and ensure that the soil is thoroughly moist for the full moisture benefit.
Fertilization
If the soil is fertile, your wild carrot will survive without fertilizer. Once the carrot tops reach 8 cm, apply a granular fertilizer at 50% of the manufacturer’s recommendation. Try to use a low nitrogen but high potassium or phosphate product. Once applied, water well.
Soil
Sand, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Sunlight
Full sun, Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Wild carrot
Daucus carota
Water
Twice per week
Hardiness Zones
3 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
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Questions About Wild carrot
Watering Pruning Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Wild carrot?
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What should I do if I water my Wild carrot too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Wild carrot?
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How much water does my Wild carrot need?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Wild carrot based on 10 million real cases
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Solutions: There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected: Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings. Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
- Wilted, droopy flowers
- Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
- Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
- Flowerhead shrink in size
- Petal color fades
- Yellowing leaves
- Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
- Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
- Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
- Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
- Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
- Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
- Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Root deformity
Root deformities can have a variety of causes
Overview
Although root deformity is a problem that can occur with just about any type of plant, it tends to be more noticeable in root crops such as carrots, parsnips, or potatoes. In any plant, it is important to address root deformity in its early stages so that they are able to grow to their fullest potential.
Symptom Analysis
There are countless symptoms of root deformity and associated root problems in plants. In fact, these symptoms often co-occur with dozens of others, making it hard to tell which disease, pest, or environmental condition is responsible for a given plant’s suffering and failure to thrive.
Some of the most common symptoms you will see in plants with root deformity problems are:
- Roots that are misshapen, rotten, or stunted
- Roots that become brown and mushy as areas begin to die back
- Stunted growth
- Wilted or yellowing leaves
- Premature leaf drop
- Delayed blooming
Root deformity is not a disease that occurs on its own but is instead a symptom of many other common plant problems. Because of that, it is exceedingly important to examine all the issues to figure out what is going wrong.
Disease Cause
There are several reasons why plants may develop malformed roots.
One of the most common is related to the environment. Environmental conditions related to moisture, soil structure, and nutrient load can commonly cause issues with root formation.
Not all soils are conducive to creating healthy roots. Roots need room to grow, spread, and breathe. When plants are grown in soil that is rocky or composed of heavy clay, it does not give them the opportunity to do so. Roots that do most of the “storage work” for plants, such as those of beets, kohlrabi, potatoes, carrots, turnips, and so on, are most likely to suffer from this cause.
There are various plant diseases that can cause plant roots to become malformed. These are generally plant- and species-specific but can include diseases such as root rot. Clubroot is another disease that typically affects plants in the mustard family, such as cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts.
There are even pests, such as root-knot nematodes, that can cause root damage, malformation, and death in a long list of plant species.
Solutions
There are a few key steps to take if root deformity is suspected:
- Prevent the spread of fungal diseases - if a fungal pathogen is to blame for the root deformity, there’s not much to do once it sets into the soil. Prevent it from spreading by applying a fungicide or adjusting the soil pH based on what is needed for the specific type of plant. Do not re-use this soil for future plantings.
- Harvest selectively - for root vegetables like carrots or parsnips, the tubers may still be usable. Cull some of the crop or cut away affected areas, but the rest should still be safe to eat.
Prevention
There are several steps for preventing root deformity from impacting your plants;
- Address spacing issues - one of the most common reasons for root deformity is plants that are growing too close together. Space plants according to the recommendations listed on the seed packet or in the planting guidelines.
- Thin plants - some plants benefit from thinning after they have germinated. Consult the planting guidelines for each species, but know that removing all but the healthiest seedlings can provide them with the space they need to grow.
- Improve soil quality - rocky and compacted soils can cause root deformity. Aerate the soil prior to planting and remove as many rocky or clay-dominated areas as possible.
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Weed Control
Weeds
Wild carrot (Daucus carota) is a biennial herbaceous plant and a progenitor of the cultivated carrot. It is widespread in its native range – Europe, southwestern Asia, and North Africa – and it spreads equally well as an invasive species in North America, Australia, and other temperate regions. Wild carrot is considered a weed both in its native and naturalized range because of its ability to spread and outcompete other plants. It is a prolific seed producer that competes with and suppresses native plants in grasslands, meadows, and degraded prairies. It also commonly colonizes roadsides, wastelands, and other types of degraded land. Wild carrot can also negatively affect carrot cultivation through genetic pollution.
How to Control it
The best time to remove weeds is before their flowering and fructification, otherwise controlling them can be very difficult. After they have flowered and fructified, their seeds can spread very fast, and hence, the weeds should be removed more often and precautions should be taken in advance in the following year. Mulching: During the seed stage, covering the soil with sawdust, straw or black mulches can effectively inhibit seed germination and the growth of seedlings. In the winter or spring, this method is often used to inhibit the seeds in the soil from germinating. If the weeds have already flowered and fructified, then the method can also be used to prevent more seeds from falling into the soil. Pulling out: Wear gloves or use tools to remove weeds before their fructification. If the soil is too dry, then water the soil thoroughly to make it softer, which can help to remove the root systems of the weeds. After that, deep tillage can be adopted to remove bits of weed roots left in the ground. This method works particularly well for weeds that are low-growing or in their seedling stages. Take care when removing it, as it is allergenic. Mowing: Mowing weeds before their fructification can effectively control their spread. Cut it as close to the ground as possible during its blossom time. Especially for annual weeds, frequent mowing can inhibit their growth and fructification, and thus can remove them effectively within the year. Ploughing: Be sure to plough and pull out all roots of perennial weeds before planting. The roots should be discarded, exposed to the sun for a long time, or buried deep. You can also use the roots to make organic fertilizer and compost the weeds. It can be reduced by crop rotation. It can be effectively removed with herbicide. Note: When removing weeds, especially those which are toxic, thorny and have allergenic sap, be sure to wear gloves and avoid direct contact with them. When removing weeds during their bloom time, be sure to wear special masks to prevent pollen allergy.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Cultivated and waste land, amongst grass
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Summer, Fall
Leaf Color
Green
Name story
Wild carrot
Many scholars believed that it is the ancestor of all hybrid carrots. The specific epithet, "carota" is derived from the Greek word, karôton meaning carrot. As it is often grown in the wild, so it is called wild carrot.
Queen anne's lace
This kind of flower looks similar to Queen Anne's lace, which is one of the prestigious clothing accessories. The red flower in the centre is thought to represent a blood droplet in which Queen Anne accidentally pricked herself with a needle while making the lace. Hence, it is called Queen Anne's lace.
Symbolism
Wisdom, purity, sanctuary
Usages
Garden Use
The wild carrot can be kept in gardens and beds. It is ideally grown in vegetable gardens and prized for its edible carrots. The wild carrot has many uses in a large vegetable garden, as it is said to improve Tomato plant production and be good for the climate and soil surrounding Lettuce plants.
Scientific Classification
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