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Carrot fern
Carrot fern
Carrot fern
Carrot fern
Carrot fern
Carrot fern
Carrot fern
Dendrobium moniliforme
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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Care Guide for Carrot fern

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Carrot fern
Sunlight
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8 to 11
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Questions About Carrot fern

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
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Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Carrot fern too much or too little?
Overwatered Carrot fern Symptoms of overwatering include limp and wrinkled leaves, yellowing or decay, and general failure to thrive. When Carrot fern owners see their plant’s leaves looking limp and shriveled, they can sometimes assume that is a sign that it isn’t getting enough water so they keep adding more. This just compounds the problem, so it’s important to look beyond the leaves to identify what’s happening with the roots. Healthy Carrot fern roots are silvery green, green, or white and feel firm to the touch. When Carrot fern has been overwatered, the roots will look mushy, limp, and brown or black in color. Rescue an overwatered Carrot fern by cutting off any rotted roots with a sterile knife or garden shears and repotting them into a new growing medium. It is always better to avoid overwatering because it is possible you won’t be able to save your plant if root rot sets in, so be conservative with water to avoid this issue. Underwatered Carrot fern Unfortunately, the initial symptoms of underwatering and overwatering are almost identical in Carrot fern. Check the growing medium with your finger or a moisture meter to get a sense of how much water is being retained. You may need to increase the frequency of watering to get back on track with watering. Once again, the best way to understand the situation is to take a look at the roots. Underwatered roots look crisp, brown, and brittle. Healthy roots are pliable and green, so the difference should be obvious. Luckily it’s easy to revive a thirsty Carrot fern, as long as the plant still has some healthy roots left. Trim off any dried up or dead root pieces, as they won’t be able to come back to life. Then repot the plant and water thoroughly. Within a week or two, shriveled and limp leaves should start to firm up and look healthy. If the leaves are too damaged to be revived once you water them thoroughly, they can be removed to make room for new growth.
Read More more
How often should I water my Carrot fern?
Regardless of which type of medium you use, your Carrot fern should be watered when the mix is mostly but not completely dry. This can vary depending on the environmental conditions, but generally it will be about once or twice a week in summer and as infrequently as once every 2 weeks in winter.
Read More more
How to water Carrot fern?
Carrot fern is a epithet plant, which means that they do not grow in soil as most plants do. In order to grow a happy and healthy Carrot fern, you’ll need to choose your growing medium carefully. Regardless of what your Carrot fern grows in, the container needs to have plenty of drainage holes. Carrot fern pots are specifically designed to hold a chunky potting mix with lots of ventilation compared to other plant pots. They also tend to be tall and narrow, allowing air to circulate around the center of the roots, not just the edges. One popular potting medium for Carrot fern and other Carrot fern is bark. It is generally sourced from fir trees and drains very well. Since Carrot fern grows on bark in the wild, it makes sense that they would do well with a similar substrate when grown indoors. The disadvantage of using bark is that the plant needs watering more often since bark dries out quickly. The other common planting medium for orchids in sphagnum moss. Most commercially grown Carrot fern specimens will be sold in moss, because it is lightweight, cheap, and it allows nurseries to water less often. Unfortunately, sphagnum moss is not very forgiving for those who aren't experts in orchids. Because it is extremely absorbent, moss runs the risk of holding too much water next to the roots, resulting in root rot. If your Carrot fern is planted in sphagnum and you plan to keep it that way, be very judicious in your watering. Less is more when it comes to watering in general, and it is quite difficult to reverse root rot once it has set in. Watering your Carrot fern from below is recommended, as this allows you to avoid splashing water on the leaves, stem, and flowers. To water from below, set the pot into a container of water and allow the roots to soak up moisture for 10-15 minutes. Normally, you can stop this process when the surface of sphagnum is wet. Drain thoroughly before returning your Carrot fern to its normal location, as these plants hate to sit in water.
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Key Facts About Carrot fern

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Attributes of Carrot fern

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
10 cm to 20 cm
Flower Size
3.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen, Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
15 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Carrot fern

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Common Pests & Diseases About Carrot fern

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Common issues for Carrot fern based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Anthracnose
Anthracnose Anthracnose
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Anthracnose
plant poor
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Overview
Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.
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Distribution of Carrot fern

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Habitat of Carrot fern

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South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Carrot fern

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More Info on Carrot Fern Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Partial sun
The carrot fern prefers being exposed to moderate sunlight. Excess sun exposure can possibly damage the plant, while limited sun exposure can impede its growth. Originating in a habitat of dappled sunlight filtering through canopies, this plant thrives in similar light conditions. Each growth stage of the carrot fern needs consistent moderate sunlight.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
1 foot
For carrot fern, Spring and early Summer (S3-S5) are the best times to transplant, ensuring optimal growth in the budding season. Choose spots with ample sunlight and well-drained soil. Remember, with carrot fern, a gentle touch during transplantation is beneficial!
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
-5 - 43 ℃
Carrot fern is native to regions with temperate climates, thriving best within a temperature range of 59 to 100 °F (15 to 38 ℃). To replicate its natural growth environment, regulate temperatures according to seasonal changes, increasing heat in summer and lowering during winter.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
North
The carrot fern can resonate harmoniously with Northern-facing placements. In Feng Shui, North signifies water, an element aptly symbolized by the fern’s slim, flowing leaves. Yet, it's key to blend this graceful feature with your personal surroundings and intuitive preferences to create a dynamic, balanced interplay of energies.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Carrot fern

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Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
Pepper
Pepper
The pepper are commonly used for cooking in places such as the Southern U.S. and Central America. Most are moderately spicy, though because there are so many variants, the spice level can vary dramatically. Cayenne powder is also a popular seasoning product made from pepper plants.
Swiss cheese plant
Swiss cheese plant
The swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) produces bright, glossy leaves and makes a popular houseplant. It is originally native to tropical forest regions in Central America. The nickname swiss cheese plant refers to the small holes that develop in the plant's leaves. The long fruits resemble corncobs and smell sweet and fragrant when ripe.
Snake plant
Snake plant
Snake plant can be considered a houseplant and an architectural display due to its sword-like leaves with bold striping patterns, which are distinctive and eye-catching. However, use caution with this plant because it is poisonous when ingested and can cause nausea, vomiting, and even swelling of the throat and tongue.
Bigleaf hydrangea
Bigleaf hydrangea
The bigleaf hydrangea is a deciduous shrub native to Japan, and is known for its lush, oval, colorful inflorescence. The two types of Hydrangea macrophylla are mopheads - with large, ball-shaped, sterile flower clusters, and lace capes - with small round fertile flowers in the center, and sterile flowers on the outer side of each inflorescence. Depending on soil pH, blooms can change color from pink to blue.
Corn plant
Corn plant
Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) is an evergreen, slow-growing perennial shrub native to tropical Africa. Also, it is a classic houseplant, grown in Europe since the 1800s. Its glossy green foliage that resembles corn leaves grow on top of a thick cane, which is why the plant is sometimes called “false palm tree.”
Peace lily
Peace lily
The peace lily gets its scientific name Spathiphyllum wallisii from a combination of the two Greek words ‘spath’ and ‘phyl’, which means spoon and leaves, respectively. The large graceful white spathe of the peace lily resembles a white flag, which is an international symbol of truce or peace.
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Carrot fern
Carrot fern
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Dendrobium moniliforme
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
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Care Guide for Carrot fern

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Questions About Carrot fern

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What should I do if I water my Carrot fern too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Carrot fern?
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How to water Carrot fern?
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Key Facts About Carrot fern

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Attributes of Carrot fern

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
10 cm to 20 cm
Flower Size
3.5 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen, Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
15 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Carrot fern

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Common Pests & Diseases About Carrot fern

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Common issues for Carrot fern based on 10 million real cases
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Learn More About the Wilting after blooming more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Anthracnose
Anthracnose Anthracnose Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Solutions: For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following: Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants. For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches: Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Learn More About the Anthracnose more
close
Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Anthracnose
plant poor
Anthracnose
Anthracnose causes grey-brown spots with black margins on leaves and stems.
Overview
Overview
Anthracnose is a group of fungal diseases that affects foliage, twigs, and stems. It can affect a wide variety of plants including trees, shrubs, vegetables, grasses, and flowers and is most likely to occur in cool, wet conditions. It often occurs in the spring when rain splashes on overwintering fungi.
Some varieties of plants are bred to be resistant to anthracnose. If plants are not resistant, they can become infected year after year. Plants can also recover from infection only to be reinfected later that year.
In most cases, anthracnose only causes minor damage. However, young plants are susceptible to major damage. In the worst-case scenarios, this disease can cause major defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plant leaves will show gray or brown blotches that may be surrounded by black edges. Blotches may be only one small spot or many spots that cover an entire leaf. If these symptoms progress, leaves may drop prematurely.
Anthracnose can also cause small lesions on twigs and stems. These often appear as brown, gray, or orange blisters. If left untreated, twigs may drop.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Anthracnose is caused by one of several possible fungi. These pathogens overwinter on plant debris. When water hits these fungi in the spring, spores release and land on plant tissue. When the spores germinate on leaf or twig tissue, they cause anthracnose symptoms.
These fungi need moist conditions to live. Therefore, they will not be a problem in dry conditions.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases when only a few leaves are affected, complete the following:
  • Prune affected leaves. Using pruning shears, remove leaves that have spots. Dispose of these leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other plants.
  • Clear debris. To stop the spread of disease, remove debris and weeds from around plants.
For serious cases when many leaves are infected with large splotches:
  • Apply a fungicide. Fungicides won't cure current infections, but they will prevent anthracnose from spreading to uninfected tissue. Apply a fungicide before a dry period following product instructions. Products containing copper diammonia diacetate are most likely to be effective.
Prevention
Prevention
Since anthracnose is difficult to treat once it appears, it's important to prevent it from infecting your plants.
  • Remove debris. Clear all old plant material and weeds from under and around plants in the fall. This material can harbor anthracnose spores that will later infect plants.
  • Select resistant varieties. When adding new plants, choose varieties that are resistant to anthracnose.
  • Increase airflow. Anthracnose thrives in wet conditions, so space plants far enough apart to allow for good airflow.
  • Avoid overhead irrigation. To keep plant tissue dry, avoid using overhead irrigation. Instead, water at the base of plants or install drip irrigation.
  • Use a preventative fungicide. If there is a reason to suspect future anthracnose outbreaks, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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Distribution of Carrot fern

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Habitat of Carrot fern

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Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Carrot fern

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Carrot Fern Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Carrot fern

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Lighting
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The carrot fern prefers being exposed to moderate sunlight. Excess sun exposure can possibly damage the plant, while limited sun exposure can impede its growth. Originating in a habitat of dappled sunlight filtering through canopies, this plant thrives in similar light conditions. Each growth stage of the carrot fern needs consistent moderate sunlight.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Carrot fern is a versatile plant that thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. While it can adapt to different light conditions, when grown indoors with insufficient light, subtle symptoms of light deficiency may arise.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Carrot fern may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Carrot fern enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Carrot fern thrives in full sun exposure but can adapt to partial shade. Although sunburn symptoms occur occasionally, they are generally tolerant of different light conditions due to their resilience.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Carrot fern is native to regions with temperate climates, thriving best within a temperature range of 59 to 100 °F (15 to 38 ℃). To replicate its natural growth environment, regulate temperatures according to seasonal changes, increasing heat in summer and lowering during winter.
Regional wintering strategies
Carrot fern has some cold tolerance and generally does not require any additional measures when the temperature is above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. However, if the temperature is expected to drop below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is necessary to take some temporary measures for cold protection, such as wrapping the plant with plastic film, fabric, or other materials. Once the temperature rises again, the protective measures should be removed promptly.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Carrot fern
Carrot fern has moderate tolerance to low temperatures and thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may start to droop. In mild cases, they can recover, but in severe cases, the leaves will wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Prior to encountering low temperatures again, wrap the plant with materials such as non-woven fabric or cloth, and construct a wind barrier to protect it from the cold wind.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Carrot fern
During summer, Carrot fern should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, the leaf tips may become dry and withered, the leaves may curl, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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