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Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Echeveria agavoides 'Red Edge'
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
care guide

Care Guide for Lipstick echeveria

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
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Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
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Sand, Loam, Slightly acidic
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Lipstick echeveria
Water
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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Questions About Lipstick echeveria

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
What is the best way to water my Lipstick echeveria?
When watering the Lipstick echeveria, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Lipstick echeveria comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
Read More more
What should I do if I water my Lipstick echeveria too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Lipstick echeveria, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Lipstick echeveria, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Lipstick echeveria have become brittle and brown. It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Lipstick echeveria. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Lipstick echeveria grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Lipstick echeveria is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
Read More more
How often should I water my Lipstick echeveria?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Lipstick echeveria needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water. If you grow your Lipstick echeveria outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Lipstick echeveria can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
Read More more
How much water does my Lipstick echeveria need?
When it comes time to water your Lipstick echeveria, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
Read More more
How should I water my Lipstick echeveria at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Lipstick echeveria can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Lipstick echeveria is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Lipstick echeveria will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Lipstick echeveria will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Lipstick echeveria more water at this time.
Read More more
How should I water my Lipstick echeveria through the seasons?
The Lipstick echeveria will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Lipstick echeveria will contract a disease.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Lipstick echeveria indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Lipstick echeveria indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Lipstick echeveria to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Lipstick echeveria very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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Key Facts About Lipstick echeveria

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Attributes of Lipstick echeveria

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Summer
Plant Height
15 cm to 30 cm
Spread
20 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Red
Green
Flower Size
1 cm to 2 cm
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Lipstick echeveria

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Common Pests & Diseases About Lipstick echeveria

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Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a detrimental disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing discoloration, tissue softening, and potentially leading to plant death if untreated. The disease thrives in moist, poorly ventilated environments.
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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plant poor
Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
Leaf rot is a detrimental disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing discoloration, tissue softening, and potentially leading to plant death if untreated. The disease thrives in moist, poorly ventilated environments.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In Lipstick echeveria, leaf rot manifests as brown or black spots on leaves, progressing to larger areas of decay. Affected leaves may become mushy and fall off, impacting overall plant vigor.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Fungi
The primary cause is fungal pathogens that invade damaged or overly moist areas of the plant.
2
Poor ventilation
Limited airflow exacerbates moisture retention around the plant, facilitating fungal growth.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Non pesticide
Remove affected parts: Carefully prune and dispose of infected plant parts to prevent spread.

Improve air circulation: Enhancing airflow around Lipstick echeveria can significantly reduce moisture accumulation.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide application: Apply appropriate fungicides specifically labeled for fungal pathogens causing leaf rot.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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More Info on Lipstick Echeveria Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
Transplant
6-9 inches
The optimal time to transplant lipstick echeveria is from the onset of spring to its peak, providing a mild climate for root establishment. Choose a bright location with indirect light. Ensure good drainage and minimal disturbance to roots to aid a successful transition.
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Fall
Characterized by its rosette shape and vibrant tips, lipstick echeveria flourishes with minimal pruning. Trim off dead or damaged leaves at the base to promote healthy growth throughout Spring, Summer, and Fall. Removing spent flowers after blooming encourages a compact form and may enhance next season's display. Ensure clean, sharp cuts to prevent infection. Pruning not only maintains aesthetic appeal but also contributes to the vigor of lipstick echeveria.
Pruning techniques
Propagation
Spring,Summer
Lipstick echeveria thrives when propagated through leaf cuttings. To ensure success, select healthy, unblemished leaves. Gently twist the leaf from the stem, ensuring it comes away with a clean snap—this is crucial for promoting root growth. Place the leaf on well-draining soil, avoiding direct sunlight until roots appear. Mist the soil lightly to keep it moist without being waterlogged, fostering an ideal environment for rooting.
Propagation Techniques
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a detrimental disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing discoloration, tissue softening, and potentially leading to plant death if untreated. The disease thrives in moist, poorly ventilated environments.
Read More
Dark blotch
Dark blotch disease severely affects 'Lipstick echeveria', leading to cosmetic degradation and vigor loss. Its diagnosis stems from noticeable discolorations and tissue decay primarily on leaves, impacting plant health and aesthetics.
Read More
Yellow edges
Yellow edges' disease in Lipstick echeveria is characterized by yellowing and eventual necrosis of leaf margins. It primarily affects the plant's aesthetic value and can weaken its growth if left untreated.
Read More
Leaf wilting
Leaf wilting in Lipstick echeveria is primarily due to inadequate watering practices or fungal infections, causing drooping and discoloration of leaves, potentially leading to death if unaddressed.
Read More
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Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Lipstick echeveria
Echeveria agavoides 'Red Edge'
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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Care Guide for Lipstick echeveria

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Questions About Lipstick echeveria

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Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
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What is the best way to water my Lipstick echeveria?
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What should I do if I water my Lipstick echeveria too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Lipstick echeveria?
more
How much water does my Lipstick echeveria need?
more
How should I water my Lipstick echeveria at different growth stages?
more
How should I water my Lipstick echeveria through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Lipstick echeveria indoors and outdoors?
more
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Key Facts About Lipstick echeveria

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Feedback
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Attributes of Lipstick echeveria

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb
Bloom Time
Summer
Plant Height
15 cm to 30 cm
Spread
20 cm to 30 cm
Leaf Color
Red
Green
Flower Size
1 cm to 2 cm
Flower Color
Pink
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Lipstick echeveria

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Common Pests & Diseases About Lipstick echeveria

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Common issues for Lipstick echeveria based on 10 million real cases
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Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a detrimental disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing discoloration, tissue softening, and potentially leading to plant death if untreated. The disease thrives in moist, poorly ventilated environments.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
close
plant poor
Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
Leaf rot is a detrimental disease affecting Lipstick echeveria, causing discoloration, tissue softening, and potentially leading to plant death if untreated. The disease thrives in moist, poorly ventilated environments.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In Lipstick echeveria, leaf rot manifests as brown or black spots on leaves, progressing to larger areas of decay. Affected leaves may become mushy and fall off, impacting overall plant vigor.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Fungi
The primary cause is fungal pathogens that invade damaged or overly moist areas of the plant.
2
Poor ventilation
Limited airflow exacerbates moisture retention around the plant, facilitating fungal growth.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Lipstick echeveria?
1
Non pesticide
Remove affected parts: Carefully prune and dispose of infected plant parts to prevent spread.

Improve air circulation: Enhancing airflow around Lipstick echeveria can significantly reduce moisture accumulation.
2
Pesticide
Fungicide application: Apply appropriate fungicides specifically labeled for fungal pathogens causing leaf rot.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
close
Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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unlimited guides at your fingertips...
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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