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Add to My Garden Echeveria
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria grows fast and has almost no dormancy period. Its leaves have obtusely rounded, pale pink leaf margins and a layer of white powder on their gray-white surfaces. The leaves grow compactly when receiving sufficient light. Its leaf cuttings tend to survive easily and require no special care or maintenance, making the plant a good choice for gardening beginners.
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Care Guide for Echeveria
Average water needs, watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Fertilization once in spring.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral
It can be repotted every few years according to growth conditions and the pot diameter should be 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the plant diameter.
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Echeveria
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
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Echeveria
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
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Echeveria
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
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Questions About Echeveria
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Echeveria?
The proper way to water Echeveria requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Echeveria will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Echeveria too much or too little?
An overwatered Echeveria is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Echeveria to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Echeveria shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Echeveria in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Echeveria?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Echeveria are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Echeveria to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Echeveria need?
Overall, Echeveria does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Echeveria enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Echeveria, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Echeveria through the seasons?
As mentioned, Echeveria needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Echeverias begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Echeveria at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Echeveria will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Echeveria prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Echeveria may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Echeverias can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Echeveria may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Echeveria indoors and outdoors?
Growing Echeverias outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Echeveria will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Echeverias at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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Explore 5 of plant how-tos on Feng shui direction, Water, Lighting, Temperature, Transplant, etc.
Feng shui direction
South
The echeveria in Feng Shui is viewed as a versatile plant that harmonizes with various energy flows. It is particularly compatible with a South-facing environment. The reason for this is the plant's inherent fiery energy, synonymous with the South's element in Feng Shui. This perfect match can enhance the Chi in the living area. However, the outcomes could vary depending on individual interpretations of Feng Shui principles.
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Lighting
Full sun
Echeveria hails from habitats where exposure to sun is constant yet diffused. An abundance of sun helps it flourish, while tolerating lower light levels. In its growth stages, differentiating sunlight exposure isn't critical. Overexposure can lead to scorched leaves. A lack of sun might make echeveria leggy as it reaches for more light.
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Echeveria prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). This succulent is native to areas with mild temperatures and enjoys bright, indirect sunlight. In the colder months, it is important to adjust the watering and provide protection from frost if the temperature drops below 50℉ (10℃).
Transplant
6-8 inches
Transplant echeveria ideally during early to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons offer optimal growth conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and sunlight exposure. Gently loosen the root ball while transplanting to promote healthy growth.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Echeveria based on 10 million real cases
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
- Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
- Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
- Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
- Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
- Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
- Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
- Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
- Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
- Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Rocky areas, Trees and dry areas
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Leaf Color
Silver
Green
Gray
Name story
Topsy turvy
Echeveria got its common name from its unusual position and the shape of its leaves. The leaves of Echeveria runyonii are so twisted and rolled downwards that they look as if they are turned upside down, hence the common English name echeveria.
Symbolism
Smart girl
Usages
Garden Use
When it's potted, echeveria is a wonderful decorative succulent for patio succulent gardens and windowsills. The showy foliage also adds interest to outdoor succulent and rock gardens year-round and becomes the most ornamental during its flowering season, in summer and autumn. This plant can't handle frost or direct sunlight but thrives in warm, slightly sunny locations.
Scientific Classification
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Pests & Diseases
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Add to My Garden Echeveria
Echeveria runyonii
Echeveria grows fast and has almost no dormancy period. Its leaves have obtusely rounded, pale pink leaf margins and a layer of white powder on their gray-white surfaces. The leaves grow compactly when receiving sufficient light. Its leaf cuttings tend to survive easily and require no special care or maintenance, making the plant a good choice for gardening beginners.
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Care Guide for Echeveria
Water
Average water needs, watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Fertilization
Fertilization once in spring.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral
Potting Suggestions
It can be repotted every few years according to growth conditions and the pot diameter should be 2.5 to 5 cm larger than the plant diameter.
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Questions About Echeveria
Watering Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Echeveria?
What should I do if I water my Echeveria too much or too little?
How often should I water my Echeveria?
How much water does my Echeveria need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Echeveria enough?
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Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Echeveria based on 10 million real cases
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
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Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
- Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
- There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
- All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
- Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
- Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
- Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
- Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
- Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
- Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
- Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
- A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
- Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
- Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
- Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
- Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
- Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
- Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
- Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
- Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
- Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
- Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
- Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
- Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
- Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
- Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
- Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
- Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
- Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
- Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
- Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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Distribution Map
Habitat
Rocky areas, Trees and dry areas
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Leaf Color
Silver
Green
Gray
Name story
Topsy turvy
Echeveria got its common name from its unusual position and the shape of its leaves. The leaves of Echeveria runyonii are so twisted and rolled downwards that they look as if they are turned upside down, hence the common English name echeveria.
Symbolism
Smart girl
Usages
Garden Use
When it's potted, echeveria is a wonderful decorative succulent for patio succulent gardens and windowsills. The showy foliage also adds interest to outdoor succulent and rock gardens year-round and becomes the most ornamental during its flowering season, in summer and autumn. This plant can't handle frost or direct sunlight but thrives in warm, slightly sunny locations.
Scientific Classification
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Water
How Often Should I Water Echeveria?
Every 2-3 weeks
Watering Frequency
Smart Seasonal Watering
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants. Important Symptoms
Overwatering
Overwatering can easily lead to disease symptoms in Echeveria, as it has evolved mechanisms to survive drought conditions. For instance, the plant stores water in its tissues, closes its stomata, and reduces water loss. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, leaf rot...
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Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Leaf rot
Overwatering can cause the leaves to become waterlogged, leading to rotting when the environment is humid.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering
For Echeveria, it is not prone to experiencing plant health issues due to lack of watering. However, it is possible to suffer from dehydration if watering is consistently forgotten for an extended period. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, yellowing leaves, root damage...
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Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Root damage
Prolonged underwatering can cause root damage, making it difficult for the plant to absorb water even when it is available.
Slow growth
The plant may exhibit delayed development or slow growth due to not receiving enough water to support its growth.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
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Lighting
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips. Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness. Essentials
Echeveria hails from habitats where exposure to sun is constant yet diffused. An abundance of sun helps it flourish, while tolerating lower light levels. In its growth stages, differentiating sunlight exposure isn't critical. Overexposure can lead to scorched leaves. A lack of sun might make echeveria leggy as it reaches for more light.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Echeveria is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your echeveria may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Echeveria enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Echeveria require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care. Essentials
Echeveria prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). This succulent is native to areas with mild temperatures and enjoys bright, indirect sunlight. In the colder months, it is important to adjust the watering and provide protection from frost if the temperature drops below 50℉ (10℃).
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Echeveria, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Echeveria is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
High Temperature
During summer, Echeveria should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Transplant
How to Successfully Transplant Echeveria?
Transplant echeveria ideally during early to late spring or mid to late fall, as these seasons offer optimal growth conditions. Choose a location with well-draining soil and sunlight exposure. Gently loosen the root ball while transplanting to promote healthy growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Echeveria?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Echeveria?
For echeveria, the prime transplanting period is from the dawning of spring to its zenith, or the heart of autumn to its twilight. Undertaking the transfer during these periods allows the plant to acclimate to its new home with minimal stress, ensuring it thrives in the new location. In kind words, it's like giving echeveria the chance to comfortably settle down before the harsher seasons take over.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Echeveria Plants?
When transplanting echeveria, a comfortable space between plants would be 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart. This will allow them to grow and spread their rosettes without being overcrowded.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Echeveria Transplanting?
For echeveria, a well-draining soil mixture is essential. A blend of cactus/succulent mix and coarse sand or perlite would be ideal. Mix in a slow-release fertilizer to provide essential nutrients as the plant grows.
Where Should You Relocate Your Echeveria?
Find a location for echeveria that receives plenty of sunlight, ideally 4-6 hours of direct sun per day. A south or west-facing area in your garden would be perfect for promoting healthy growth.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Echeveria?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and echeveria plant.
Hand Trowel
To dig holes for transplanting and to remove excess soil from the root ball.
Shovel or Spade
To dig larger holes and remove the plant from its original location.
Watering Can
To water the plant after transplanting and to aid in the removal process.
Scissors or Pruning Shears
To trim dead or damaged leaves, stems, and roots before transplanting.
Support Stakes (optional)
To provide additional support to echeveria if needed after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Echeveria from the Soil?
Step1 Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your echeveria plant to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Digging the Hole
Using a hand trowel or shovel, dig a hole in the ground that is twice as wide and deep as the echeveria's root ball.
Step3 Preparing the Root Ball
Examine the roots of the echeveria plant and trim away any dead, damaged, or tangled roots using scissors or pruning shears.
Step4 Placing the Plant
Place the echeveria plant into the hole, ensuring that the top of the rootball is level with the ground. Gently backfill the hole with soil, pressing it down around the roots.
Step5 Watering
Water the echeveria immediately after transplanting to hydrate the plant and settle the soil around the roots.
Step6 Optional Support
If your echeveria plant needs additional support, such as a stake, install it now. Be careful not to damage the roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Echeveria
Step1 Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your echeveria plant to grow to its mature size.
Step2 Digging the Hole
Using a hand trowel or shovel, dig a hole in the ground that is twice as wide and deep as the echeveria's root ball.
Step3 Preparing the Root Ball
Examine the roots of the echeveria plant and trim away any dead, damaged, or tangled roots using scissors or pruning shears.
Step4 Placing the Plant
Place the echeveria plant into the hole, ensuring that the top of the rootball is level with the ground. Gently backfill the hole with soil, pressing it down around the roots.
Step5 Watering
Water the echeveria immediately after transplanting to hydrate the plant and settle the soil around the roots.
Step6 Optional Support
If your echeveria plant needs additional support, such as a stake, install it now. Be careful not to damage the roots.
How Do You Care For Echeveria After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the echeveria consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Trimming
Inspect the echeveria plant for any dead or damaged leaves, stems, and roots, removing them using scissors or pruning shears to encourage new growth.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the echeveria for any signs of stress or disease, addressing any issues as they arise.
Frost Protection
If frost is expected, provide temporary cover to protect the newly transplanted echeveria from damage.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Echeveria Transplantation.
When should I transplant my echeveria?
The optimal time for transplanting your echeveria is during early to late spring or from mid-fall to late fall. This is when the plant can best handle the shift.
How much space does the echeveria need when transplanting?
Your echeveria will appreciate a bit of room to grow. Plan for a spacing of around 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) between each plant.
Why are the leaves of my echeveria wrinkling post-transplant?
Wrinkled leaves often indicate that the echeveria is not getting enough water. Maintain a consistent watering schedule, especially after transplanting.
What should I do if my echeveria is wilting after I transplanted it?
Wilting could be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure you watered it properly and placed it under indirect sunlight. If wilting continues, consider changing its location.
Post-transplant, I noticed my echeveria has brown leaf tips. What could be the cause?
Brown leaf tips usually indicate underwatering or exposure to extreme temperatures. Maintain a moderate temperature and a regular watering routine.
My echeveria is showing stunted growth after transplanting, what should I do?
Stunted growth could be due to insufficient light or nutrient deficiency. Ensure your echeveria is getting enough sunlight and top up with a balanced fertilizer.
I transplanted my echeveria and its leaves are becoming thin and transparent. Why is this happening?
Thin, transparent leaves might mean your echeveria is being overwatered. Cut back on watering and ensure the soil has good drainage.
What’s the best soil mixture to use when transplanting echeveria?
Echeveria favours a well-draining soil mix. A good blend would be one part perlite to three parts potting soil. This structure prevents waterlog and supports root growth.
Why is my echeveria losing its vibrant colour after transplanting?
Your echeveria might not be getting enough sun to keep its color. If possible, move it to a brighter location but avoid direct sun to prevent scorching.
Can I transplant echeveria in a pot without a drainage hole?
It's not ideal, as echeveria prefers well-draining soil to avoid root rot. If you must, add a layer of gravel at the bottom for retaining excess water.
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