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Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Echeveria shaviana
Mexican hens is a succulent native to Mexico. It is known for its eye-catching appearance. It forms grayish-green, waxy rosettes that look like flowers. This Echeveria shaviana prefers well-draining soil and full sun. It displays a pink tinge on the outer corners when sunlight hits it.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
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care guide

Care Guide for Mexican hens

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once in spring.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Loam, Acidic, Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Mexican hens?
What Are the Lighting Requirements for Mexican hens?
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements What Are the Lighting Requirements for Mexican hens?
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Mexican hens
Water
Water
Every 2-3 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
Planting Time
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
question

Questions About Mexican hens

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Mexican hens?
The proper way to water Mexican hens requires some timing. For example, you should wait until the spring, when the new leaves are beginning to grow, before considering adding water to this plant’s pot. Once that season arrives, you can add water when the soil inside the pot has become entirely dry. When watering, you can use either tap water or distilled water. It's best not to water this plant from overhead. Instead, you should water at the base of the plant by applying the water slowly and evenly across the entire surface of the soil. This method will allow you to moisten all parts of the soil consistently without dampening the above-ground portions of the plant, which your Mexican hens will appreciate. Typically, you can continue adding water until you notice a light stream of excess water draining from the pot’s hole.
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What should I do if I water my Mexican hens too much or too little?
An overwatered Mexican hens is a far more common occurrence than one that is underwatered. Overwatering is also incredibly detrimental to your plant's health as it can cause one Mexican hens to die quite quickly. One way to avoid overwatering is to allow the soil to dry entirely before adding water, as mentioned previously. Especially when it turns into dormancy, lots of people will just water it in the wrong way. As such, we’ll focus on how to remedy the problem of overwatering. When your Mexican hens shows signs of overwatering, it is often best to remove it from its current pot. After removal, you should access the roots of this plant and remove any that show signs of rot or some other moisture-related disease. While some roots should be removed, others will return to full health after a simple cleaning. After this stage, you should repot your Mexican hens in soil that has excellent drainage capabilities to lessen the odds of future overwatering.
While unlikely, underwatering can take place too. If that occurs for you, all you need to do is supply your plant with water on a slightly more frequent basis, ensuring that you don't overcorrect the issue and end up overwatering your plant.
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How often should I water my Mexican hens?
As a succulent plant, the water needs of Mexican hens are quite low compared to most other plants because this plant hails from a region that is constantly hot and dry.
To give this plant species proper care, you should allow its soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Typically, it will take anywhere from two weeks to a month for the soil to dry entirely, at which time you can add water. Watering frequency tends to be very seasonally related. During the spring to summer period, it will be in a growing state and it may take 2-3 weeks for the soil to dry completely, you can follow this watering frequency. During the summer time, the soil may dry out faster. However, when the temperature falls below 60 degrees or rises above 85 degrees Fahrenheit, most of them will be dormant or semi-dormant, which means that the plant does not need more watering at the moment. Instead, you should reduce or even stop watering to keep the soil dry until the temperature is appropriate again for Mexican hens to grow, and then restart watering.
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How much water does my Mexican hens need?
Overall, Mexican hens does not need a high volume of water. This is mainly due to the fact that this plant must go for a while without receiving water. However, when the time to water this plant does arrive, you should be ready to give it a lot of water. While there is no set amount of water to give this plant, you should not stop watering until the soil is completely moist. The best way to ensure this is the case, provided you grow this plant in a pot, is to water it until you see water trickling through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also insert a pencil or some similar object deep into the soil to test if you have watered enough. If you remove the pencil and it is moist, then you have provided enough water.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Mexican hens enough?
Generally, overwatering is a far more significant issue than underwatering is. When overwatering occurs, you should notice right away as the leaves will begin to lose their form, become mushy, and change colors. This will be a stark contrast to a healthy set of living stone leaves, which should be relatively sturdy and hold their shape. Underwatering is incredibly rare for Mexican hens, as this species can often survive with no water at all. However, if underwatering does occur, you will usually notice leaf discoloration and dryness.
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How should I water my Mexican hens through the seasons?
As mentioned, Mexican hens needs the most water during the times of year that it is actively growing. By contrast, in winter, when the plant is entirely dormant, you should reduce these already low watering needs. In fact, during winter, you should not water this plant at all. Once spring arrives, wait until your Mexican henss begin to develop new leaves. Once that occurs, you can return to your regular watering schedule. During the hottest parts of summer, your plant may enter another dormant growth phase, which means its water needs will be lower than normal. As summer ends and fall arrives, you can begin reducing your watering in anticipation of winter. By the time winter arrives, you should cease watering altogether.
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How should I water my Mexican hens at different growth stages?
By and large, the water needs of Mexican hens will remain consistent throughout each of its growth stages. Anyway, Mexican hens prefers dry soil conditions more than moist ones, so watering less is safer for it than watering a lot. However, there are some phases in which your Mexican hens may need slightly more water than usual. Despite being known for their foliage, Mexican henss can also provide flowers, but these flowers do not arrive until the plant is at least a few years old. Once flower development is possible, your Mexican hens may need a minimal uptick in its watering schedule to accommodate flower development. Otherwise, you should not expect to change your watering frequency significantly based on this plant’s growth stages.
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What's the difference between watering Mexican hens indoors and outdoors?
Growing Mexican henss outdoors is not an option for most gardeners in hardiness zones colder than zone 9, as this plant loves areas that have warm or hot weather year-round. Only in regions that do not have yearly temperatures that fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can this plant species survive. If you live in such an area, you should study the average rainfall in your area as well. If you live where it rains often, your Mexican hens will likely die from overwatering. But if you live in a warm climate in which it rains occasionally, you may not need to water your Mexican henss at all.
Those who live in cooler areas of the world should have no issue growing this plant indoors. If that is the approach you take, you can wait until all of the soil in your plant's container has dried out while also following the rest of the general watering advice we've laid out in the sections above.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Mexican hens

Attributes of Mexican hens

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Harvest Time
Early summer
Plant Height
15 cm to 20 cm
Spread
10 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Purple
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Red
Orange
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen

Symbolism

Seeking blessing

Usages

Garden Use
Mexican hens are showy succulents planted for their unusual looks, toughness, and easy care. They are most commonly grown in containers, but also look gorgeous as part of a group succulent planting, and can be a beautiful addition to rock gardens as long as the soil is well-draining.

Scientific Classification of Mexican hens

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Common Pests & Diseases About Mexican hens

Common issues for Mexican hens based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
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Soft rot
plant poor
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
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distribution

Distribution of Mexican hens

Habitat of Mexican hens

Gardens
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Mexican hens

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Mexican Hens Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
The mexican hens requires lots of sun exposure to flourish in its native habitat but can also withstand areas of less light. During different growth stages, ample sun exposure encourages healthy growth. However, too much or too little can negatively impact the plant's health.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 43 ℃
Mexican hens thrive in temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃), their preferred temperature range. They are native to areas with warm temperatures such as Mexico, where they grow well in temperatures above 60℉ (15 ℃). During colder seasons, it's suggested to keep the plant above 50℉ (10 ℃) to avoid any damage.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-8 inches
The ideal season to transplant mexican hens is early to late spring, or mid to late fall. This allows the plant to establish itself before extreme temperatures. Ensure a well-draining location with partial sun exposure. Gently loosen the roots during transplant for optimal growth.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
In terms of Feng Shui, the mexican hens plant aligns harmoniously with a West-facing direction. This is because the direction signifies metal element, which complements this succulent's tenacity and ability to thrive in tough conditions, symbolizing Metal's characteristics. This, however, should be considered a general guideline rather than an absolute rule, as Feng Shui interpretations can greatly vary due to different perspectives and contexts.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

Plants Related to Mexican hens

Mission manzanita
Mission manzanita
Mission manzanita (Arctostaphylos bicolor) is indigenous to the west coast of the United States. Mission manzanita produces a fruit that’s almost entirely devoid of flesh. It’s more like an enormous wooden seed than an actual fruit. Despite the lack of flesh on the seed, avian species love to feast on it. These include the scrub jay and the California thrasher.
Millot kalanchoe
Millot kalanchoe
Millot kalanchoe leaves grow in pairs, with a dense layer of white tomenta on their surface. The tomenta are fuzzy like "bunny ears." The tomenta on the new leaves in particular are unusually white and endearing.
Mexican twist
Mexican twist
Native to Mexico, which gives it its name, the mexican twist grows on forest edges and canyon walls, where it supports itself and climbs against the rocks using its tendrils. The plant has become naturalized in many tropical and subtropical parts of the world, and it's often cultivated as a garden ornamental.
Meadow zizia
Meadow zizia
Meadow zizia (Zizia aptera) has distinctive heart-shaped leaves which results in its other common name, the heart-leaved meadow parsnip. The scientific name honors the work of Johann Baptist Ziz, a German botanist who was born in the 18th century. The plant is perennial and native to North America.
Matchstick plant
Matchstick plant
Matchstick plant (Aechmea gamosepala) is a plant species native and endemic to southern Brazil. Matchstick plant is a bromeliad. This species is often planted in landscaping and gardens. This plant was described in the famous historical botany text Flora Brasiliensis by German botanist Carl Friedrich Philipp von Martius.
Man orchid
Man orchid
Man orchid is a perennial herb known to emit an unpleasant aroma. It prefers calcareous areas such as quarries and cliffs. Man orchid is named for its flowers’ appearance of a hooded man. It is critically endangered in its native UK.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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About
Care Guide
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More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More About How-Tos
Related Plants
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Mexican hens
Echeveria shaviana
Mexican hens is a succulent native to Mexico. It is known for its eye-catching appearance. It forms grayish-green, waxy rosettes that look like flowers. This Echeveria shaviana prefers well-draining soil and full sun. It displays a pink tinge on the outer corners when sunlight hits it.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 12
more
question

Questions About Mexican hens

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Mexican hens?
more
What should I do if I water my Mexican hens too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Mexican hens?
more
How much water does my Mexican hens need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Mexican hens enough?
more
How should I water my Mexican hens through the seasons?
more
How should I water my Mexican hens at different growth stages?
more
What's the difference between watering Mexican hens indoors and outdoors?
more
icon
Get tips and tricks for your plants.
Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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close
plant_info

Key Facts About Mexican hens

Attributes of Mexican hens

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent, Herb
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer, Mid winter, Late winter
Harvest Time
Early summer
Plant Height
15 cm to 20 cm
Spread
10 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Blue
Purple
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Red
Orange
Dormancy
Summer dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
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Symbolism

Seeking blessing

Usages

Garden Use
Mexican hens are showy succulents planted for their unusual looks, toughness, and easy care. They are most commonly grown in containers, but also look gorgeous as part of a group succulent planting, and can be a beautiful addition to rock gardens as long as the soil is well-draining.

Scientific Classification of Mexican hens

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Mexican hens

Common issues for Mexican hens based on 10 million real cases
Low light
Low light Low light Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Solutions: Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed. Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn. Introduce appropriate artificial lighting. Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Learn More About the Low light more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Soft rot
Soft rot Soft rot Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Solutions: Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control. For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected: Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes. For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black: Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Learn More About the Soft rot more
Brown spot
Brown spot Brown spot Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
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Low light
plant poor
Low light
A lack of sunlight will cause the stems and leaves to elongate and appear lighter in color.
Overview
Overview
All plants require light, and if they do not receive it in the quantities that they require this distorts their growth in a process known as etiolation. In essence, etiolated plants are diverting all of their energy to growing taller in a desperate attempt to reach a position where they can meet their light requirements. Many other growth factors are harmed by this, and so light-deprived plants can become weak and distorted until they are almost unrecognizable. Low light symptoms are most commonly seen in houseplants, but outdoor specimens can also be affected.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Although symptoms will vary in different plants, the general symptoms of low light are easy to spot.
  1. Plant stems grow tall and lanky.
  2. There are less leaves, and both leaves and stems tend to be pale and insipid looking. This is due to a shortage of chlorophyll.
  3. All plant parts become weakened and may droop, as energy is diverted toward too-fast growth as the plant stretches itself toward any source of light.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Plants need sunlight in varying amounts for photosynthesis – a process that produces energy for growth and fruit and flower production. Low light causes a plant to divert all energy to upward (apical) growth in order to find better light. Plant hormones called auxins are transported from the actively-growing tip of the plant downwards, to suppress lateral growth. A drop in cellular pH triggers expansins, nonenzymatic cell wall proteins, to loosen cell walls and allow them to elongate. This elongation results in the abnormal lengthening of stems, especially internodes, or plant "legginess" which is observed in etoliated plants.
Solutions
Solutions
Low light can only be addressed by increasing light availability, and these measures will only stop further etoliation; current distortion cannot be reversed.
  • Move plant to a position where it receives more light. Check the requirements for specific species, as too much sunlight can cause a plant to burn.
  • Introduce appropriate artificial lighting.
  • Some people choose to prune the longest stems so the plant can concentrate on healthy new growth under the improved lighting.
Prevention
Prevention
To avoid etiolation, provide an adequate amount of light from the beginning.
  1. Choose a location that matches each plant's ideal light needs. Many indoor plants do best in or near a south-facing window, which will provide the longest hours of sunlight. Flowering plants and those with colored leaves typically need more light than purely-green plants, as photosynthesis occurs in the green portions of leaves.
  2. Select plants with light needs that match a location's conditions. Some cultivars and varieties require less light than others.
  3. Use a grow light. Darker locations may require artificial illumination. A grow light may also become more necessary during winter, when sunlit hours are at their shortest.
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Leaf rot
plant poor
Leaf rot
This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.
Overview
Overview
Leaf rot is very common among both house plants and garden plants. It affects foliage and occurs mainly when the leaves become wet due to rain or misting by the gardener. The cause is fungal disease and this is facilitated by the fungal spores adhering to wet leaves then penetrating the leaf and expanding rapidly. Damp conditions and poor air circulation will increase chances of infection taking place. Another factor are leaves that are damaged or have been penetrated by sap sucking insects that facilitate plant penetration.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  1. Spores are able to cling to a damp leaf and penetrate, often through an existing wound.
  2. A small dark brown mark appears which expands rapidly as sporulation starts to take place.
  3. Quite quickly these bull's eye like circles can link together and the whole leaf turns dark and loses texture.
  4. Leaf drop occurs.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
These symptoms are caused by a bacterial infection invading the plant. Bacteria from many sources in the environment (air, water, soil, diseased plants) enter a plant through wounds, or in some cases the stomata when they are open. Once inside the leaf tissue, the bacteria feed and reproduce quickly, breaking down healthy leaves.
Bacterial infections threaten most plant species, and are more prominent in wet weather that more easily transfers the bacteria from plant to plant, or from soil to plant.
Solutions
Solutions
Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden.
In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
  1. Clean up garden debris at the end of the season, especially if it contains any diseased plant tissue. Diseases can overwinter from season to season and infect new plants.
  2. Avoid overhead watering to prevent transferring pathogens from one plant to another, and to keep foliage dry.
  3. Mulch around the base of plants to prevent soil-borne bacteria from splashing up onto uninfected plants.
  4. Sterilize cutting tools using a 10% bleach solution when gardening and moving from one plant to another.
  5. Do not work in your garden when it is wet.
  6. Rotate crops to prevent the buildup of bacteria in one site due to continuous cropping.
  7. Use a copper or streptomycin-containing bactericide in early spring to prevent infection. Read label directions carefully as they are not suitable for all plants.
  8. Ensure plants are well spaced and thin leaves on densely leaved plants so that air circulation is maximised.
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Soft rot
plant poor
Soft rot
Soft rot causes the entire plant to turn black and rot from the inside out.
Overview
Overview
Soft rot is a common disease affecting mostly fruits and vegetables. It can occur while plants are growing but is more common once the produce has been harvested. The most susceptible plants are fleshy vegetables like tomatoes, lettuce, sweet potato, capsicum, bananas, eggplants, squash, cucumber, avocados, and potatoes.
Many succulents are also susceptible to soft rot. This is especially the case when the plant has received some damage, as bacteria enters the succulent through the open wound.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Initially, the disease is spotted in the form of soft, wet, cream-to-tan necrotic spots. These may appear on fruits and vegetables, including tubers, or succulent leaves and stems. The spots are surrounded by a dark brown to black ring.
As the disease progresses, the plant part becomes infected with a soft and slimy rot that has a foul odor. A dark discoloration can be seen internally. Potatoes, sweet potatoes and other tubers will have evidence of this rot under the skin. Fruits like avocados exhibit a dark metallic sheen on the outside and the flesh is grey to black. The flesh also has a putrid odor.
Succulents with soft rot will have watery-looking scabs on the stems or leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots will turn brown to black and they may have a foul-smelling discharge. For succulents with shorter stems, it may be more difficult to notice the earliest symptoms, and soft rot may not be noticed until the plant has already begun rotting from the center.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Soft rot is caused by the bacteria Erwinia cartovorum. This bacteria secretes enzymes that decompose the cell wall structure of the plant. This destroys the plant tissue and causes the plant or its fruit to rot.
The bacteria lives in crop debris as well as soil and water, including the ocean. It infects plants through open wounds, including those caused by overwatering in succulents. It is normally spread by splashing water, insects, and wind. Infection is worse in hot and humid weather.
Solutions
Solutions
Once soft rot appears, it is difficult to control.
For minor issues of soft rot where only a small area is affected:
  1. Reduce watering. Only water when the soil is completely dry.
  2. Prune away affected tissue. Remove all dead and/or rotting roots and leaves. Use sterile tools.
  3. Repot using new soil. If potted, repot the plant with new soil. Be sure to use a pot with proper drainage holes.
For severe cases when a large amount of tissue is infected or black:
  1. Dispose of plant. Severely infected plants will not recover. Dispose of the plant so that other nearby plants are not infected. Do not compost the infected plant.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent soft rot, do the following:
  1. Avoid overwatering. Only water succulents when soil is almost dry. Make sure potted plants are in containers with drainage holes.
  2. Ensure proper airflow. Do not crowd plants together. Make sure there is adequate space between plants to allow for airflow.
  3. Source healthy plants. Avoid introducing plants with soft rot into your garden or home. Buy plants for a reliable source and check for signs of soft rot.
  4. Sterilize pruning tools. Soft rot bacteria enter plants where tissue is cut. Make sure to sterilize pruning tools before using.
  5. Control pests. Pests can spread soft rot bacteria when they feed on plants. Controlling pests will help stop the spread of soft rot.
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Brown spot
plant poor
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
  • Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
  • Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
  • May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
  • Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
  • Leaf margins may turn yellow.
  • Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
  • Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
  • The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
  • Partial or complete premature defoliation
  • Reduced growth
  • Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
  1. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
  2. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
  3. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
  • Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
  • Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
  • Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
  • Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
  • Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
  • Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
  • Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
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distribution

Distribution of Mexican hens

Habitat of Mexican hens

Gardens
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Mexican hens

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Mexican Hens Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Mexican hens

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The mexican hens requires lots of sun exposure to flourish in its native habitat but can also withstand areas of less light. During different growth stages, ample sun exposure encourages healthy growth. However, too much or too little can negatively impact the plant's health.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Insufficient light
Mexican hens is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your mexican hens may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Slower or no new growth
Mexican hens enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Excessive light
Mexican hens require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Mexican hens thrive in temperatures ranging from 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃), their preferred temperature range. They are native to areas with warm temperatures such as Mexico, where they grow well in temperatures above 60℉ (15 ℃). During colder seasons, it's suggested to keep the plant above 50℉ (10 ℃) to avoid any damage.
Regional wintering strategies
Winter is the growing season for Mexican hens, so it is important to maintain temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} for optimal growth. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it is advisable to bring the plant indoors to a well-lit area. Increase watering when the temperature is higher and reduce watering when it approaches {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. If overwintering the plant outdoors, it should be placed in a sheltered area with ample sunlight. Consider setting up a temporary greenhouse for protection if the outdoor temperature is consistently low and keep the plant adequately moist.
Important Symptoms
Low Temperature
Mexican hens is not tolerant of extremely cold temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is between {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} and {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves will exhibit water-soaked necrosis and wilting. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the leaves will significantly wilt and eventually fall off.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment or set up a makeshift greenhouse for cold protection. When placing the plant indoors, choose a location near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. When using a makeshift greenhouse, pay attention to ventilation to avoid plant decay due to poor airflow.
High Temperature
During summer, Mexican hens should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant will enter a dormant state, and it becomes more prone to rot in high humidity conditions.
Solutions
Remove the dry and rotten parts. Move the plant to a partially shaded area, providing protection from direct sunlight during midday and afternoon. Stop watering the plant until the weather becomes cooler.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Mexican Hens?
The ideal season to transplant mexican hens is early to late spring, or mid to late fall. This allows the plant to establish itself before extreme temperatures. Ensure a well-draining location with partial sun exposure. Gently loosen the roots during transplant for optimal growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Mexican Hens?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Mexican Hens?
Spring months, namely early to late, and the period between mid to end of autumn are the golden moments for transplanting mexican hens. This timeframe is therapeutic to mexican hens due to the mild temperatures. It allows the plant to root well before summer heat or winter frost could hit. Transplanting in these seasons optimizes mexican hens's capacity to grow vibrantly and strongly. Make sure to give mexican hens a cozy new home during these periods to see it thrive!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Mexican Hens Plants?
When planting your lovely mexican hens plants, be sure to give them enough room to thrive! Aim for a spacing of about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) apart to ensure they have ample space to grow.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Mexican Hens Transplanting?
For a happy and healthy mexican hens plant, use well-draining soil such as a cactus or succulent mix. Before planting, add a slow-release granular fertilizer as a base to provide essential nutrients for your plants.
Where Should You Relocate Your Mexican Hens?
For the best results, choose a location that gets bright, indirect sunlight for your mexican hens plant. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade or dappled sunlight throughout the day is perfect!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Mexican Hens?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and mexican hens.
Trowel or Garden Shovel
For digging the new hole and removing the mexican hens from its current location.
Watering Can
To water the mexican hens before and after transplanting.
Gardening Shears
To trim any damaged or diseased foliage.
Garden Fork
To slightly loosen the soil around the plant before transplanting.
Mulch
Used to conserve moisture in the transplanting area.
Compost
To enrich the new ground where mexican hens is going to be transplanted.
How Do You Remove Mexican Hens from the Soil?
From Ground: First, water the mexican hens plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
From Pot: Water the mexican hens thoroughly until the soil is saturated. Grip the base of the plant and gently pull, wiggling it a little if required until the plant and its root come out. Ensure not to pull too hard to avoid damaging the plant roots.
From Seedling Tray: Water the mexican hens seedlings to moisten the growing medium. Gently push the seedling from the bottom to loosen it, then lift it out of the tray, carefully holding it by its leaves, not the stem or roots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Mexican Hens
Step1 Preparation
Prepare the new location by digging a hole twice as wide and equally as deep as the root ball of the mexican hens. Mix compost into the excavated soil.
Step2 Transplant
Remove the mexican hens from its original location as described above depending on its location and place it in the new hole. Place it in a way that the top of the root ball is level with or slightly below the ground surface.
Step3 Backfill
Backfill the hole with the compost-enriched soil, there should be no air pockets, the soil should be firm but not compacted.
Step4 Watering
Water the mexican hens deeply and slowly to ensure the water reaches the deep root zone.
Step5 Mulching
Finally, apply a layer of mulch around the plant to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
How Do You Care For Mexican Hens After Transplanting?
Regular Watering
Keep the soil around the mexican hens consistently moist, but not soggy during the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning
Remove any yellow or wilting leaves after transplantation. This helps maximize the plant's energy towards establishing roots in the new soil.
Observation
Keep a close eye on the mexican hens for the first few weeks. Take note of any changes in color or wilting as they might indicate transplant shock.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Mexican Hens Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant mexican hens?
The ideal time frame for transplanting mexican hens is from the onset of spring until its end or from midway through fall until the tail end of the season.
What should be the distance between each mexican hens during transplanting?
For the best growth results, make sure to leave a gap of about 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) between each mexican hens during transplantation.
What is the best way to prepare the soil for transplanting mexican hens?
The soil should be well-drained and slightly acidic. Enhance your regular garden soil by combining it with coarse sand or grit to improve drainage.
How deep should I plant my mexican hens during transplantation?
The roots of mexican hens need to be fully under the soil, but not too deep. A hole 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) deep filled with good quality compost would be perfect.
What kind of light exposure is suitable for mexican hens post-transplantation?
Mexican hens prefers bright but indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight can cause leaf scorch, while lack of sufficient light leads to weak and elongated growth.
How frequently should I water mexican hens after transplantation?
After transplanting, water mexican hens thoroughly, and thereafter only water when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry. Overwatering should be consistently avoided.
How do I secure mexican hens properly in the new spot?
Ensure that mexican hens is secure and settled into its new spot by compressing the surrounding soil lightly with your fingers. Don’t pack it too hard, as the roots need to breathe.
Should I remove dead leaves before or after transplantation of mexican hens?
You should remove dead or dying leaves before transplantation. It helps prevent disease spread and allows the plant to concentrate its energy on new growth.
Is fertilizer necessary after transplanting mexican hens?
It's not immediately necessary. Wait a few weeks to let mexican hens adapt to its new environment. Then you can feed it a diluted liquid cactus and succulent fertilizer.
How do I deal with transplant shock in mexican hens?
Transplant shock can cause mexican hens to wilt or slow growth. Wait and watch for some time after transplanting. Also, ensure proper watering, light, and avoid unnecessary disruptions.
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