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Pitaya
Pitaya
Pitaya
Pitaya
Pitaya
Pitaya
Pitaya
Echinocereus enneacanthus
Also known as : Strawberry hedgehog cactus, Strawberry cactus
Pitaya (Echinocereus enneacanthus) is also called green strawberry hedgehog cactus. It’s indigenous to western North America. Its greenish-brown fruits are very popular in Mexico and have a taste similar to strawberries. If you’re growing pitaya in a container, make sure that the pot has excellent drainage. Its root system is prone to rot.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Pitaya

Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
9 to 11
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Pitaya
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
question

Questions About Pitaya

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What's the best method to water my Pitaya?
Another tip when watering this species is to water it from the bottom. This is for the proper absorption of water to the roots, enabling it to circulate the nutrients from the soil towards its whole body. When you accidentally spill water at the top part, this can cause the development of diseases and fungi.
Use sprinklers when you have irrigation systems. Get the small sprinklers if you have Pitayaed in your garden. It's best to get the revolving ones that allow you to change the water delivery patterns whenever you need them. Avoid turning on the sprinkler on windy days. Make sure to use the soak and dry method regardless if the Pitaya is in a pot or your garden. This will evenly distribute the moisture across the root systems resulting in healthier growth.
Some owners might want to get a built-in drainage system for their succulents. This is where layers of porous materials like recycled glass or hydro stones are placed beneath the soil. They will generally be a reservoir for excess water, so it's important not to pour too much water into these built-in systems.
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What should I do if I water my Pitaya too much/too little?
When you see that the Pitaya begins to turn yellow, know that this can be caused by underwatering or overwatering. When the soil is too wet, then there might be the presence of fungal infections. You should allow everything to dry, and you should not overwater.
Also, the browning and dropping symptoms indicate that your plant is getting too much moisture and water. If there's not enough water, the indication can be seen with the yellow tips that can begin to form on stems and branches.
When you're still in the process of buying the Pitaya, make sure to ask first if the soil is properly draining or sandy. When the topsoil does not properly drain, there's a chance that the plant will likely not receive enough water in the future.
Another thing is that the Pitaya tends to die when it's constantly getting overwatered and if it's receiving too much rain if planted outside. Use rainwater or distilled water whenever possible as the plants don't like many minerals in their drink.
You can see the squishy stems, drooping growth, and discolored parts that are all signs of too much moisture. It's critical to give the species time to recover and allow the pot to dry. Transfer it to a different container to avoid root rot and prevent it from dripping. If planted outside, you can also transfer it into a pot, especially in the winter, to help it recover.
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How often should I water my Pitaya?
Most of the time, you only need to water your succulents once every two to three weeks in the summer and spring. During the winter and fall, reduce the watering or avoid this as this plant tends to become dormant.
Let the soil dry completely, and it's always a good idea to lean on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. When they are in the pot, water deeply at intervals to encourage healthier soil growth.
When they are planted outdoors, never water them lightly as this will result in more shallow root growth. Wait for a few weeks and only give them a drink when the soil around them is too dry.
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How much water does my Pitaya need?
Water this succulent efficiently and make sure to cover the entire pot. Set a saucer at the bottom of the pot so the roots will get enough moisture. When you see that the soil begins to saturate, take out the saucer immediately. The holes in the pot and the amount of soil will determine the frequency and the quantity of water you should give your plant. A can of water is often more than enough for the Pitaya especially if they are planted in pots.
When you plant them in the garden or outdoors, you need to include the rainwater they receive. About an inch of rainwater is more than enough to last them for a few weeks, so refrain from watering. When they are outside, you need to water them in the morning with about a gallon of water after you see that the soil is bone dry so the sunlight can help evaporate the excess moisture.
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Why is watering my Pitaya important?
Watering the Pitaya will help transport the nutrients that it needs from the soil to the rest of the plant. Without enough moisture, the Pitaya won't remain healthy or might even become malnourished. Watering should be done when you see some signs that the plant is thirsty. When you're in doubt, you should never overwater as this can be a way to kill them.
The best way to water them is the soak and dry method. When you see that the soil becomes too dry, you should soak them in water until you see that the pot is dripping with water underneath. Then, go for weeks without watering to give the soil a chance to rest.
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Pitaya adequately?
Before you give this plant a drink, it's always a good idea to check the soil's moisture levels by poking your finger in it or using a moisture meter. This will tell you whether the soil is already too dry or if there's still moisture. It's a technique used by owners of smaller potted plants to know whether it's time to water or not.
Assess the needs of your Pitaya and know that it requires watering every two weeks during the summer. You can go as far as three weeks in the hot season before watering this, but in the fall or winter, there should not be any water at all. Allow the soil to dry between irrigations. They can be grown in greenhouses and other warm spots indoors and thrive well. When your plant is getting too much light, you can increase the watering frequency as long as you see that the soil is dry. They can also be grown outdoors, where you will need to water them less. Give it enough water once every three weeks; this should be more than enough. Don't rely alone on irrigations and sprinklers to reach their bases. Use a soaker hose that will hit the ground and spread the water. Make sure it won't hit much of the body of the plant as this can result in diseases.
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my Pitaya according to different seasons or climates?
Pitaya is very tolerant of drought. This means that you don't need to water them very often. Watering frequency should also depend on the climate where you live. In a dry environment, you can make the watering conditions adapt well to your plants' needs. When they are in their early flowering stages, you might want to increase watering to help them grow. When they are receiving enough sunlight, water only in the morning. Specifically, they can be watered once every 10 to 14 days during the summer. You can increase this frequency during times of heat waves and make sure to mist the base from time to time lightly. When it's too cold, you can cut back on watering or once every 21 to 28 days when it begins to cool down.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Pitaya?
When you've just repotted the plant, you should wait for a week before you can water your Pitaya. When it's time to water them, be generous until you see the water coming out of the potholes but don't make it a deluge. When they have already grown and received medium light, you might want to water them once every 2 to 3 weeks since they are very tolerant to drought.
In the winter, you will further need to cut back on watering. The ideal time is to water it once every 3 to 4 weeks as long as the soil does not feel too dry. Winter is their resting season, so they don't consume a lot of energy or grow at this time.
If you grow the plants outdoors, rainwater can be another excellent alternative when you want to hold back on watering. When you live in an area where you don't get much rain, water at least once every three weeks to prevent the soil from drying too much.
In humid locations, there's no need to water a lot. When keeping the Pitaya indoors, you won't have to keep the moisture high, especially if the plant does not receive too much sunlight. When there's too much moisture and not enough light, this can spell disaster for the succulents.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Pitaya in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
The Pitaya growing outdoors can thrive with rainfall, but when it’s planted in a pot, you need to be careful while Pitaya is still in the growing stage. One way to prevent overwatering is to check the top bottom inches of the soil for moisture. Once again, you need it to be dry so you can water it again. If you're unsure of the amount and the frequency, especially during the growing phase, go with underwatering and slightly increase it when you see a need. It's always a good idea to take a picture of the Pitaya and note how it looks after watering it. You can take things further by using moisture meters or hygrometers to check the air and soil moisture. These tools are available from various shops and can be valuable when you want to know the readings for humidity and water.
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Should I water my Pitaya differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Know that these plants can survive for weeks without any water. This is because they have water storage capacity that can conserve water for a long time. so it will conserve enough water to stay alive even if they are in the wild.
When they are fully grown, water them less since they can survive without water compared to when they were small. You need to give them time to get used to your climate and growing conditions before watering them. If they are indoors, keep them in indirect light and water them less frequently. Avoid using cold water during the winter and months, and you might be overwatering when the plants are located indoors. Give this a rest, especially during the winter and fall.
When they are outdoors, refrain from watering too much. They should be able to get enough humidity, moisture, and rainfall that will keep them alive. Only water when you see that their leaves are becoming droopy and yellowish. Always lean on the side of underwatering as the Pitaya is very tolerant to dry conditions. They don't like wet feet and might wilt when you water them too much.
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Key Facts About Pitaya

Attributes of Pitaya

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Plant Height
30 cm to 38 cm
Spread
10 cm
Flower Size
10 cm
Flower Color
Purple
Red
Pink
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Love, Luck. Used For Love Spells, Its symbolism is that of love, temptation, passion, and rewarded effort.

Scientific Classification of Pitaya

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Pitaya

Common issues for Pitaya based on 10 million real cases
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Mealybugs
Mealybugs Mealybugs
Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Solutions: Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established. Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them. Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers. Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants. Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation. For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs. Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer. For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran. Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity: Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
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Soil mold
plant poor
Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Mealybugs
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Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Mealybugs are sap-sucking insects of the Pseudococcidae family. They produce a white waxy secretion that makes them look like a dusting of flour. They thrive in warm moist conditions and so are often found on houseplants or in greenhouses, where they tend to hide in crevices such as leaf nodules and at the base of stems. Once in position they don't move and instead focus on sucking sap from the host plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
These creatures are quite easy to identify but because they hide in crevices, the gardener will need to be looking for them.
Small white woolly-looking dots will be seen in leaf axis and beneath leaves. Initially it may appear as though the plant has gathered patches of a light flour-like dust or bits of cotton fluff.
Initial infestations tend to be quite minor but left unaddressed, these creatures breed rapidly and can threaten the health of the plant. Severely infested plants will exhibit yellowing leaves that lack normal texture and become soft.
Solutions
Solutions
Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established.
  • Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them.
  • Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers.
  • Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants.
  • Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation.
For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs.
  • Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer.
  • For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran.
  • Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
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Fruit deformity
plant poor
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit deformity may be caused by several different factors. Distorted growth of fruit can be quite pronounced and very different from the normal fruit that a grower would expect from the relevant plant. Common causes are inadequate or intermittent watering, poor pollination, sudden changes in temperature, insect damage while fruit is forming, or insufficient nutrients. All fruits are susceptible to this condition if their growing conditions are not met or if they are only partially pollinated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms of fruit deformity vary from fruit to fruit and also by cause, but here are some of the more common ones.
  • Cat facing. Various parts of the fruit grow more quickly than others, resulting in a scarred or crinkled appearance. This is common in grapes, pears, peaches, and tomatoes.
  • Nubby tips. The tips of the fruit are distorted or forked. Common in strawberries.
  • Defect ridging. Scar-like growth on the exterior of the plant that extends inwards to the fruit. Common on avocados.
  • Scabs. Hard brown to black leathery patches that distort fruit. Common with apples.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Several factors may contribute to fruit deformity:
  • Poor pollination: Insects pollinate fruit by spreading pollen throughout the flower's ovules (ovaries). If they miss some of these ovules, they won't fully develop. This can lead to misshapen fruit that is often pointy and wrinkled on the blossom end.
  • Watering changes: If a plant has been growing in drought conditions and then suddenly gets more water, the fruit may grow too quickly and split from the stress. Soft fruits can also split if rain falls on the fruit shortly before harvest, as the cuticle absorbs the water and bursts.
  • Temperature extremes: Excessive heat or cold can harm flowers before they have a chance to be fully fertilized, which may result in half-formed fruits. Early season frosts are a primary cause.
  • Lack of nutrients: Many nutrient deficiencies cause stunted fruit. For example, too little boron or calcium will lead to misshapen apples and strawberries.
  • Insect damage: Some insects, like tarnished plant bugs (lygus bugs), feed on young fruits and can prevent them from forming correctly.
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distribution

Distribution of Pitaya

Habitat of Pitaya

Desert, rocky, brush
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Pitaya

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
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More Info on Pitaya Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Pitaya laps up the maximum amount of sunlight possible. Its origin habitat exposes it to continuous, strong illumination that influences its thriving and healthy growth. Yet, stages of growth don't alter this sun-needs significantly. Too little or overexposure can lead to damaging effects on the plant's overall health.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
0 - 43 ℃
Pitaya is native to environments where temperatures range from 68 to 100°F (20 to 38 ℃). It favors warmer conditions, thriving in heat. Care should be taken to adjust temperatures accordingly during seasonal changes.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
5-6 feet
For pitaya, the optimal transplanting season is late spring to early summer, when warm soil temperatures facilitate root development. Choose locations with ample sunlight and well-draining soil. During transplantation, handle the plant carefully to prevent root damage. Success with pitaya follows from diligent site preparation and careful handling during transplanting.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
The pitaya aligns harmoniously with the calming energy flow of a space facing West. This owes roots to the plant's inherent resilience, symbolizing balance and endurance; characteristics largely endorsed by the settling sun. However, interpretation can vary, evoking individual intellect and intuition.
Fengshui Details
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About
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Pitaya
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Pitaya
Echinocereus enneacanthus
Also known as: Strawberry hedgehog cactus, Strawberry cactus
Pitaya (Echinocereus enneacanthus) is also called green strawberry hedgehog cactus. It’s indigenous to western North America. Its greenish-brown fruits are very popular in Mexico and have a taste similar to strawberries. If you’re growing pitaya in a container, make sure that the pot has excellent drainage. Its root system is prone to rot.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
9 to 11
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question

Questions About Pitaya

Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What's the best method to water my Pitaya?
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What should I do if I water my Pitaya too much/too little?
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How often should I water my Pitaya?
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How much water does my Pitaya need?
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Why is watering my Pitaya important?
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How can I ensure that i'm watering my Pitaya adequately?
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my Pitaya according to different seasons or climates?
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Should I adjust the watering frequency during the different growing stages of my Pitaya?
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What should I be careful with when I water my Pitaya in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
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Should I water my Pitaya differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
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Key Facts About Pitaya

Attributes of Pitaya

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Plant Height
30 cm to 38 cm
Spread
10 cm
Flower Size
10 cm
Flower Color
Purple
Red
Pink
Leaf type
Semi-evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Love, Luck. Used For Love Spells, Its symbolism is that of love, temptation, passion, and rewarded effort.

Scientific Classification of Pitaya

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Pitaya

Common issues for Pitaya based on 10 million real cases
Soil mold
Soil mold Soil mold Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Solutions: Measures to take to remove soil mold: Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface. Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Learn More About the Soil mold more
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Learn More About the Stem rot more
Mealybugs
Mealybugs Mealybugs Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Solutions: Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established. Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them. Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers. Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants. Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation. For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs. Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer. For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran. Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
Learn More About the Mealybugs more
Fruit deformity
Fruit deformity Fruit deformity Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Solutions: You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity: Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
Learn More About the Fruit deformity more
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Soil mold
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Soil mold
Moist environments may encourage the growth of mushrooms or other fungi at the soil's surface that do not affect the health of the plant.
Overview
Overview
If there is soil mold around the plants, this isn't necessarily a reason to panic. Mold can occur for several reasons. Most of the time, it's harmless. The microorganisms that exist in mold are, in fact, necessary for healthy plant life. That said, it can be unsightly and in some cases, harmful to certain plants. It's important to understand why mold might be forming. It is only after the potential causes have been identified that steps can be taken to stop mold from spreading or appearing in the future.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious sign of soil mold is, of course, mold observed on the surface of the soil. This can be fuzzy and white, yellow, or gray in color. Other symptoms may include:
  • Mushrooms
  • Wilted plants
  • Plants are stunted in growth
  • Soil has an odd "off" smell
  • Premature leaf drop or flower/blossom/fruit rot
  • Excess water is leaking from drainage holes
While soil mold doesn't always harm the growth of a plant, it can indicate the presence of a larger problem that needs to be addressed (and these problems can often harm plants).
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several causes for soil mold. Understanding why mold is growing should be the first step in deciding on the best course of action.
Some potential causes include:
  • Overwatering - fungi consume excess water, so the presence of mold indicates that there is water that the plants aren't readily using
  • Poor drainage - this can be caused by dense, compacted soil, a lack of drainage holes, or an inadequate pot size
  • Poor air circulation - this is common in indoor-grown plants, especially in the winter when windows are closed
  • Contaminated soil - while all soil contains microorganisms, soil can contain fungal spores that lead to mold growth
  • Decomposing leaves on the soil surface feed the mold
Solutions
Solutions
Measures to take to remove soil mold:
  • Physically remove mold/mushrooms - remove and dispose of mushrooms. To remove mold, scrape 1/8” of soil from the surface.
  • Add a layer of sand or gravel - adding 1/4” of sand or gravel on top of the soil surface will discourage new fungal growth
  • Sprinkle an antifungal treatment around the plants - this doesn't have to be a commercial fungicide, as many growers swear by all-natural remedies like cinnamon and baking soda
Some types of mold contain toxins that can be harmful to humans or irritate those with allergies or asthma. Wear a dust mask while performing these tasks.
Prevention
Prevention
Follow these practices to prevent soil mold from forming.
  • Limit moisture - avoid keeping soil damp, and allow it to dry out between waterings. Watering from the bottom of pots with drainage can allow the surface soil to stay dry.
  • Provide aeration - increase airflow around the plants using a fan or wind.
  • Repot - if the container is too small or lacks proper drainage, transplant the plant into a new, better-draining container.
  • Apply a layer of sand - apply 6 mm of sand on top of soil.
  • Use potting mix - when planting, only use potting mix instead of regular soil, as this is specially formulated for the proper moisture retention.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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Mealybugs
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Mealybugs
Mealybugs look like powdery white bumps about 1 to 2 mm across. They suck at the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Mealybugs are sap-sucking insects of the Pseudococcidae family. They produce a white waxy secretion that makes them look like a dusting of flour. They thrive in warm moist conditions and so are often found on houseplants or in greenhouses, where they tend to hide in crevices such as leaf nodules and at the base of stems. Once in position they don't move and instead focus on sucking sap from the host plant.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
These creatures are quite easy to identify but because they hide in crevices, the gardener will need to be looking for them.
Small white woolly-looking dots will be seen in leaf axis and beneath leaves. Initially it may appear as though the plant has gathered patches of a light flour-like dust or bits of cotton fluff.
Initial infestations tend to be quite minor but left unaddressed, these creatures breed rapidly and can threaten the health of the plant. Severely infested plants will exhibit yellowing leaves that lack normal texture and become soft.
Solutions
Solutions
Mealybugs are not difficult to control once they are seen. If the gardener is playing close attention they can be dealt with before becoming established.
  • Dip a cotton swab in alcohol and use it to apply alcohol to individual mealybugs. Avoid getting too much alcohol on plants as it will damage them.
  • Rub off mealybugs using a washcloth or your fingers.
  • Use a hose to spray these pests off of your plants.
  • Close examination of the plant on a regular basis is the best weapon against infestation.
For severe cases: - Spray entire plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Avoid spraying on sunny days and make sure to make contact with the mealybugs.
  • Introduce or promote beneficial insects to the garden that eat mealybugs. Some beneficial insects include parasitic wasps, lady beetles, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs, but the most effective predator is the mealybug destroyer.
  • For a chemical solution, spray a product that contains dinotefuran.
  • Remove and discard heavily-infected plants.
Prevention
Prevention
Recommended steps for prevention, from most to least common, are as follows:
  1. Examine plants carefully before purchasing. Mealybugs are most commonly brought in on contaminated plants.
  2. Avoid overfeeding plants with nitrogen, as it makes them too tender and easy for the mealybugs to insert their sucking mouth parts into.
  3. Regularly check plants, pots, and tools for them. They are very easy to spot once the gardener knows what to look for and where to look.
  4. Keep plants in good health by properly fertilizing and irrigating.
  5. Avoid using insecticides that can kill beneficial insects. Neem tree oil and vegetable soaps are highly effective.
  6. Regular spraying or wiping with an insecticidal soap is a good deterrent and affords the gardener an opportunity to examine for any infestations.
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Fruit deformity
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Fruit deformity
Fruit deformities can have a variety of causes.
Overview
Overview
Fruit deformity may be caused by several different factors. Distorted growth of fruit can be quite pronounced and very different from the normal fruit that a grower would expect from the relevant plant. Common causes are inadequate or intermittent watering, poor pollination, sudden changes in temperature, insect damage while fruit is forming, or insufficient nutrients. All fruits are susceptible to this condition if their growing conditions are not met or if they are only partially pollinated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Symptoms of fruit deformity vary from fruit to fruit and also by cause, but here are some of the more common ones.
  • Cat facing. Various parts of the fruit grow more quickly than others, resulting in a scarred or crinkled appearance. This is common in grapes, pears, peaches, and tomatoes.
  • Nubby tips. The tips of the fruit are distorted or forked. Common in strawberries.
  • Defect ridging. Scar-like growth on the exterior of the plant that extends inwards to the fruit. Common on avocados.
  • Scabs. Hard brown to black leathery patches that distort fruit. Common with apples.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Several factors may contribute to fruit deformity:
  • Poor pollination: Insects pollinate fruit by spreading pollen throughout the flower's ovules (ovaries). If they miss some of these ovules, they won't fully develop. This can lead to misshapen fruit that is often pointy and wrinkled on the blossom end.
  • Watering changes: If a plant has been growing in drought conditions and then suddenly gets more water, the fruit may grow too quickly and split from the stress. Soft fruits can also split if rain falls on the fruit shortly before harvest, as the cuticle absorbs the water and bursts.
  • Temperature extremes: Excessive heat or cold can harm flowers before they have a chance to be fully fertilized, which may result in half-formed fruits. Early season frosts are a primary cause.
  • Lack of nutrients: Many nutrient deficiencies cause stunted fruit. For example, too little boron or calcium will lead to misshapen apples and strawberries.
  • Insect damage: Some insects, like tarnished plant bugs (lygus bugs), feed on young fruits and can prevent them from forming correctly.
Solutions
Solutions
You will not be able to solve this problem with fruit that is already distorted, but there are a few ways to cope with fruit deformity:
  1. Deformed areas may be cut out of edible fruit.
  2. If distortion is extreme, remove affected specimens from the plant so that other fruit have more room to grow, and so these less desirable fruit don't waste valuable nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
There are many steps that can be taken to prevent fruit deformity.
  • Create pollinator-friendly habitat space: Proper pollination leads to beautiful fruits and vegetables. Encourage bees and other insects by planting pollinator-friendly flowers nearby. If necessary, a gardener can pollinate flowers by hand using a small paintbrush to transfer pollen from other flowers.
  • Protect plants from early frost: When frost is in the forecast, bring flowering plants indoors or protect them with a frost cloth or a row cover.
  • Check for insect damage: As the plant's fruits first form, inspect them regularly for signs of tarnished plant bugs and other pests. Sticky traps may prevent the insects from reaching the plants, and surrounding weeds that create habitat space for pests should be removed. Don't spray insecticide if the plant still has flowers, as this might harm visiting pollinators.
  • Prevent overwatering: Squash and melons are susceptible to splitting if they get too much water right before they ripen. Ensure that fruiting plants get adequate amounts of water throughout the full growing season to prevent stress in the last few weeks.
  • Add fertilizer: Stave off nutrient deficiencies with a dose of fertilizer that contains boron at the time of planting. A slow-release fertilizer may be a good choice to provide a steady supply of nutrients.
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distribution

Distribution of Pitaya

Habitat of Pitaya

Desert, rocky, brush
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Pitaya

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Pitaya Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Pitaya laps up the maximum amount of sunlight possible. Its origin habitat exposes it to continuous, strong illumination that influences its thriving and healthy growth. Yet, stages of growth don't alter this sun-needs significantly. Too little or overexposure can lead to damaging effects on the plant's overall health.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Pitaya is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Pitaya may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Pitaya enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Pitaya require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Pitaya is native to environments where temperatures range from 68 to 100°F (20 to 38 ℃). It favors warmer conditions, thriving in heat. Care should be taken to adjust temperatures accordingly during seasonal changes.
Regional wintering strategies
Pitaya is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Pitaya grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Pitaya thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Pitaya should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Pitaya?
For pitaya, the optimal transplanting season is late spring to early summer, when warm soil temperatures facilitate root development. Choose locations with ample sunlight and well-draining soil. During transplantation, handle the plant carefully to prevent root damage. Success with pitaya follows from diligent site preparation and careful handling during transplanting.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Pitaya?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Pitaya?
The best time to transplant your pitaya is in the late summer to early fall. This period corresponds to the best condition 'S8-S10'. Transplanting pitaya during this season allows it to acclimatize to its new location before the winter. Not only does this let pitaya adjust with ease, but it also ensures robust growth in the following spring, yielding plenty of fruits.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Pitaya Plants?
When transplanting pitaya, make sure to give each plant plenty of space to grow. A recommended spacing would be 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8 meters) apart. This will provide enough room for the plants to spread without overwhelming each other.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Pitaya Transplanting?
For pitaya, it's best to prepare a well-draining soil type, like sandy or loamy soil. Add a base fertilizer rich in phosphorus and potassium to boost the plant's growth and flowering process.
Where Should You Relocate Your Pitaya?
Choose a sunny location for your pitaya. These plants love the sun, so an area that receives full sunlight for most of the day will be perfect. Just make sure it isn't exposed to extreme heat to prevent scorching.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Pitaya?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and pitaya.
Garden Shovel
To dig holes and remove the pitaya from its original location.
Watering Can
For maintaining soil moisture during the transplant process.
Garden Trowel
Useful for moving and adjusting the soil when transplanting the pitaya plant.
Wheelbarrow
To transport the pitaya to its new location after removal.
Pruning Shears
For trimming any damaged roots or branches of the pitaya.
How Do You Remove Pitaya from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by generously watering the pitaya to make the soil around it easy to work with. Using a garden shovel, dig a wide circle around the pitaya ensuring to leave ample space to preserve the intact root ball. Gradually, use your shovel to go under the root ball, lifting the pitaya out of its original place.
From Pot: Firstly, water your pitaya plant to moisten the potting soil. Turn the pot sideways, gently hold your pitaya at its base and tug. If the plant is stubborn, you may need to tap the bottom of the pot to loosen the pitaya.
From Seedling Tray: Water the seedling tray first. Next, gently hold the pitaya at its base and use a garden trowel to lift it out from underneath, making sure to keep the root ball intact.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Pitaya
Prune
Prior to transplanting, prune back any damaged roots using the pruning shears.
Prepare the Hole
Use your garden shovel to dig a hole in the new location. Ensure the hole is twice as wide as the root ball of the pitaya but only as deep.
Position the Plant
Place the pitaya in the hole, spread out the roots and ensure the plant is at the same depth as it was in its original location.
Fill the Hole
Slowly backfill the hole, firming the soil around the pitaya as you go to keep it upright.
Water Generously
Use the watering can to water the pitaya deeply immediately after planting.
How Do You Care For Pitaya After Transplanting?
Rehydration
Be sure to maintain moisture well after transplanting the pitaya, particularly in the initial few weeks. However, be mindful not to over-water and make the soil soggy.
Monitoring
Keep an eye on the pitaya over the following weeks. Check for any signs of transplant shock like wilting or yellowing and adjust care if needed.
Mulching
To help retain moisture and reduce weed competition, apply a layer of organic mulch around the pitaya, ensure the mulch is not touching the plant stem.
Staking
If the pitaya is tall or exposed to strong winds, it might need staking to hold it up until the roots establish and it can stand on its own.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Pitaya Transplantation.
When's the ideal time to transplant pitaya?
The optimal time to transplant pitaya is between seasons 8 to 10. This roughly corresponds to late summer to early autumn.
What's the best spacing for pitaya planting?
To ensure healthy growth, give each pitaya a good 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8 meters) room to grow. This will cater for its spread.
How should I prepare the new site for pitaya transplant?
Choose a sunny location. Clear the area of weeds and dig a hole that's wider and deeper than the root ball of the pitaya.
Should I water pitaya immediately after transplanting?
Certainly! Water the pitaya thoroughly right after transplanting. This helps settle the soil and reduces transplant shock.
What type of soil is best for transplanting pitaya?
Pitaya thrives in well-draining soil. A sandy or gravelly composition will be ideal to facilitate efficient draining without retaining much water.
Is there a particular depth to which I should plant pitaya?
Indeed, you should plant pitaya such that the root ball is level with or slightly above the soil surface.
Should I fertilize pitaya while transplanting?
Pitaya doesn't require much fertilization. But incorporating some slow-release, low-nitrogen fertilizer into the planting hole can boost its establishment.
Should I prune pitaya before or after transplanting?
Before transplanting, trim any damaged or diseased stems and roots. Avoid aggressive pruning as it may cause unnecessary stress to the pitaya.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted pitaya wilting?
Wilting could be a sign of transplant shock. Ensure adequate watering, but avoid waterlogging. Partial shade may also help for the first few weeks.
What if my transplanted pitaya is not growing as expected?
Check for proper spacing, watering, and ideal growing conditions. If all these are in place, be patient. Pitaya, as a perennial plant, takes time to establish.
Discover information about plant diseases, toxicity, weed control and more.
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