About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More Info
Related Plants
Related Articles
Add to My Garden Thorny olive
Elaeagnus pungens
Also known as: Silverthorn, Autumn-olive
Thorny olive (Elaeagnus pungens) is a flowering shrub native to Asia. Thorny olive is also commonly called silverthorn. In the United States, thorny olive is planted ornamentally in landscaping in the southeastern region. Thorny olive grows in variable temperate conditions, and it attracts birds.
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Thorny olive
Thorny olive seedlings and young trees need consistently moist (not soggy) soil. Established trees can be allowed to dry out some between waterings; deep water whenever the first few inches of soil beneath the tree go dry. Avoid letting water get on the foliage, and water in the early morning if possible to give any splashes time to evaporate.
Fertilize your thorny olive at planting or transplanting, and every early spring thereafter, using compost or a good balanced, time-released fertilizer formulated for shrubs and trees. Water it in well.
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Sand, Clay, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Scan QR code to download
Thorny olive
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download and print this plant care card and attach it to your plants
Download
Thorny olive
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Thorny olive
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Thorny olive
Watering 
Sunlight 
Temperature 
Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Thorny olive?
Your Thorny olive will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Thorny olive. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Thorny olive. However, the Thorny olive usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
Read More ![more]()
Free
What should I do if I water my Thorny olive too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Thorny olive can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Thorny olive is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Thorny olive, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Thorny olive from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Thorny olive in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Thorny olive, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
Read More ![more]()
Free
How often should I water my Thorny olive?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Thorny olive is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Thorny olive. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Thorny olive .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
Read More ![more]()
Free
How much water does my Thorny olive need?
When it comes time to water your Thorny olive, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Thorny olive by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Thorny olive gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Thorny olive is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Thorny olive is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Thorny olive a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
Read More ![more]()
How can I tell if i'm watering my Thorny olive enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Thorny olive, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Thorny olive will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Thorny olive will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Thorny olive.
Read More ![more]()
How can I water my Thorny olive at different growth stages?
When the Thorny olive is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Thorny olive that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Thorny olive can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Thorny olive is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
Read More ![more]()
How can I water my Thorny olive through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Thorny olive. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Thorny olive will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Read More ![more]()
What's the difference between watering my Thorny olive indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Thorny olive may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
Read More ![more]()
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Thorny olive based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
- Physically remove mites from plants
- Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
- Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
- Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
- Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
- Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
- Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
- Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
- Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
- Avoid fertilizing during a drought
- Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
- Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
- Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Distribution Map
Habitat
Sunny slopes, road sides, thickets in lowlands, by the sea
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Cream
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Silver
Name story
Thorny olive
This plant is a multi-branched shrub with strong invasive nature. However, due to its unique shape, it is widely cultivated and ornamented. Its greatest feature is that the stem is covered by thorns. Therefore, it is also known as thorny olive.
Symbolism
Healing, Peace, Fertility
Usages
Garden Use
Thorny olive is a popular evergreen shrub prized for its dense foliage and red berries. It is commonly used as part of a hedge or a focal point in a large garden. It is an essential part of mixed hedge gardens. Plant it with holly or boxwood to add different textures.
Scientific Classification
Related Plants
Mexican sunflower
The mexican sunflower is a perennial plant that can grow up to 3 m tall and is native to Mexico and Central Africa. You can find this flower in shades of red, yellow, and orange. The leaves and flowers are edible and can be used for garnishing.
Mango tree
Mango tree is a large tree native to the Indian subcontinent. It is most well-known for the tropical fruit it produces, and mango is the national fruit of India, Pakistan, and the Philippines. Mango tree can also be used for wood after the tree’s fruit production is over. This type of wood is highly prized for making musical instruments.
Straggler daisy
The straggler daisy is a low-growing ground cover plant that tolerates shade and can withstand moderate foot traffic. The straggler daisy blooms for the entire spring, summer, and well into fall. In frost-free areas, year-round blooming is possible and the flowers of this plant are a sunny yellow color.
Cathedral bells
Cathedral bells is a succulent plant from Madagascar remarkable for its ability to generate small bullets on the edges of "leaves." Actually, these thick, fleshy "leaves" are not true leaves but flattened shoots instead. Cathedral bells is easy to grow and used as a potting or hanging plant indoor.
Dog rose
The dog rose is a pale pink type of rose. The plant is known for "climbing" as it grows and can even be found climbing up different trees. References to dog rose date back at least to ancient Rome, and it is featured in many European riddles and even Shakespearian quotes as well.
Beach sheoak
Beach sheoak (Casuarina equisetifolia) is a flowering evergreen tree that is considered invasive in some areas. Beach sheoak replaces native trees and disturbs their natural habitat. Beach sheoak produces a woody fruit that attract birds. It does not grow well in cold temperatures and is intolerant to frost. This species grows well in coastal areas and tolerates salty soil.
View More Plants
Related Articles
Useful Tips
Most Common Shrub
Plant Collection Most Common Shrub Laurustinus See More Laurustinus (Viburnum tinus) is a flowering shrub native to the Mediterranean region. It is cultivated as an ornamental plant and it often adorns winter gardens. When little else is growing during cold days of winter, Laurustinus produces numerous clusters of tiny white flowers. Add to My GardenContinue reading “Most Common Shrub”
Read More ![more]()
Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
Plant Collection Best Perennial Plant to Grow Orange daylily See More The Orange daylily is a perennial plant known for its captivating lily-like blooms. Its natural habitats are meadows and forests, but it is also a common garden plant in temperate regions around the world. Each individual flower lasts only a day, but the plantContinue reading “Best Perennial Plant to Grow”
Read More ![more]()
Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
Plant Collection Best Perennial Plant to Grow China rose See More The China rose (Rosa chinensis) is a Southwest China native. The plant has been cultivated for so long that it has become hard to tell the difference between wild and cultivated varieties. With medium-sized clusters of flowers and a long blooming season, it isContinue reading “Best Perennial Plant to Grow”
Read More ![more]()
Useful Tips
Most Common Shrub
Plant Collection Most Common Shrub China rose See More The China rose (Rosa chinensis) is a Southwest China native. The plant has been cultivated for so long that it has become hard to tell the difference between wild and cultivated varieties. With medium-sized clusters of flowers and a long blooming season, it is easy toContinue reading “Most Common Shrub”
Read More ![more]()
View More Articles
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants and unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Botanist in your pocket
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Sign in/sign up
Sign in with Apple
Sign in with Google
Logged in!
About
Care Guide
Care FAQ
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
More Info
Related Plants
Related Articles
Add to My Garden Thorny olive
Elaeagnus pungens
Also known as: Silverthorn, Autumn-olive
Every 1-2 weeks
Water
Full sun
Sunlight
Care Guide for Thorny olive
Water
Thorny olive seedlings and young trees need consistently moist (not soggy) soil. Established trees can be allowed to dry out some between waterings; deep water whenever the first few inches of soil beneath the tree go dry. Avoid letting water get on the foliage, and water in the early morning if possible to give any splashes time to evaporate.
Fertilization
Fertilize your thorny olive at planting or transplanting, and every early spring thereafter, using compost or a good balanced, time-released fertilizer formulated for shrubs and trees. Water it in well.
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Soil
Sand, Clay, Loam, Chalky, Acidic, Neutral, Alkaline
Potting Suggestions
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Tips, advice, and instructions for over 13,000 species that you will find nowhere else
Thorny olive
Elaeagnus pungens
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
7 to 9
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Download
Questions About Thorny olive
Watering Sunlight Temperature Fertilizing What is the best way to water my Thorny olive?
Free
What should I do if I water my Thorny olive too much or too little?
Free
How often should I water my Thorny olive?
Free
How much water does my Thorny olive need?
How can I tell if i'm watering my Thorny olive enough?
Show More ![more]()
You’ve got questions. We’ve got answers.
Let us help take all the guesswork out of your gardening.
More Questions People Also Ask
Common Pests & Diseases
Common issues for Thorny olive based on 10 million real cases
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Learn More ![more]()
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More ![more]()
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Learn More ![more]()
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Learn More ![more]()
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More ![more]()
Keep your leafy friends healthy and happy.
Diagnose your plant, and learn how to prevent and treat plant diseases.
Plant dried up
The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has dried out and turned brown. It might be starting to wilt, with no noticeable green around the stems and leaves. Touch the leaves, and they may crinkle under your fingers.
Possible causes of a dried out plant include:
- Not enough water. A lack of water will lead to dry plant tissue.
- Too much water. Watering too much can lead to root rot which makes the plant struggle to take up water. Rotted, mushy roots are a sign of overeating.
- Entering dormancy. As perennial plants enter their resting period known as dormancy, their leaves dry out and may fall off. This happens during decreasing day length.
- Exposure to herbicides and other toxic substances. If a plant is hit with a large dose herbicide or other toxic chemical, the plant will turn brown.
- Too much fertility. An excess of fertilizer can prevent plants from taking up water, leading to drying.
- Improper sun exposure. Just like humans, plants can get sunburn by intense, direct light. Plants can also dry out if they don’t receive enough light.
To determine whether the plant is still alive and can be saved, you can:
- Bend a stem. If the stem is pliable, the plant is still alive. If the stem breaks, the plant is dead.
- Gently scratch the stem with your fingernail for signs of green inside. If your plant is dead, the stem will be brittle and brown throughout.
- Cut the stems back a little bit a time for visible green growth. If none of the stems have visible green growth, the plant is dead.
Solutions
The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method.
- Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly.
- Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems.
- Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species.
- Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil.
- Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.
Prevention
Prevention involves providing your plant with the proper environment.
- Provide the proper amount of water. The amount of water depends on a plant’s size, species, and environment. A general rule is to allow soil to dry out between waterings.
- Place plants in the proper environment. Provide the proper hours of sun and temperature for your individual plant.
- Provide proper fertility. Most plants only need to be fertilized once or twice a year; don’t overapply.
- Keep plants free from toxic substances. Keep herbicides and toxic household chemicals away from your plants.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
For less serious cases:
- Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
- Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
- Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
- Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
- Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
- Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
- Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
- Physically remove mites from plants
- Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
- Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
- Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
- Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
- Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
- Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
- Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
- Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
- Avoid fertilizing during a drought
- Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
- Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
- Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Brown spot
This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.
Overview
Discolored spots on the foliage of plants are one of the most common disease problems people observe. These spots are caused by fungal and bacterial diseases, with most infections related to a fungal pathogen.
Brown spot can occurs on all houseplants, flowering ornamentals, vegetable plants, and leaves of trees, bushes, and shrubs. No plants are resistant to it, and the problem is worse in warm, wet environments. It can occur at any point in the life stage as long as leaves are present.
Small brownish spots appear on the foliage and enlarge as the disease progresses. In severe cases, the plant or tree is weakened when the lesions interrupt photosynthesis or cause defoliation.
Symptom Analysis
In most cases, brown spot only affects a small percentage of the whole plant, appearing on a small amount of the leaves. A small infection only puts minor stress on the plant. However, if left untreated and the disease progresses over numerous seasons, it will severely impact the health and productivity of the infected specimen.
- Sporulation begins (reproduction of the fungal spores), and tiny spots appear on leaves.
- Placement is often random and scattered as diseases are spread through raindrops.
- May appear on lower leaves and the interior of the plant where humidity is higher.
- Brown spots enlarge and grow large enough to touch neighboring spots to form a more prominent blotch.
- Leaf margins may turn yellow.
- Tiny black dots (fruiting bodies of the fungi) appear in the dead spots.
- Blotches grow in size until the entire leaf is brown.
- The leaf falls off the plant.
Severe Symptoms
- Partial or complete premature defoliation
- Reduced growth
- Increased susceptibility to pests and other diseases
Disease Cause
Brown spot, or leaf spot, is a common descriptive term given to several diseases affecting the leaves of plants and trees. Around 85% of diseases exhibiting leaf spots are due to fungus or fungus-like organisms. Sometimes brown spot is caused by a bacterial infection, or insect activity with similar symptoms.
When conditions are warm and the leaf surfaces are wet, fungal spores being transported by wind or rain land on the surface and cling to it. They do not rupture the cell walls but grow in the space between the plant plasma membrane and the plant cell wall. As the spores reproduce, they release toxins and enzymes that cause necrotic spots (i.e., dead tissue) on the leaves, allowing the fungi to consume the products released when the cells degrade.
Solutions
In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary.
Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading.
- Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear.
- Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread.
- Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.
Prevention
Like many other diseases, it is easier to prevent brown spot than cure it, and this is done through cultural practices.
- Clear fall leaves from the ground before winter to minimize places where fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
- Maintain good air movement between plants through proper plant spacing.
- Increase air circulation through the center of plants through pruning.
- Thoroughly clean all pruning tools after working with diseased plants.
- Never dispose of disease plant material in a compost pile.
- Avoid overhead watering to keep moisture off of the foliage.
- Keep plants healthy by providing adequate sunlight, water, and fertilizer.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
- Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
- Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
- Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
Distribution Map
Habitat
Sunny slopes, road sides, thickets in lowlands, by the sea
Map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
More Info
Plant Type
Shrub
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Cream
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Early summer, Mid summer
Leaf Color
Green
Yellow
Silver
Name story
Thorny olive
This plant is a multi-branched shrub with strong invasive nature. However, due to its unique shape, it is widely cultivated and ornamented. Its greatest feature is that the stem is covered by thorns. Therefore, it is also known as thorny olive.
Symbolism
Healing, Peace, Fertility
Usages
Garden Use
Thorny olive is a popular evergreen shrub prized for its dense foliage and red berries. It is commonly used as part of a hedge or a focal point in a large garden. It is an essential part of mixed hedge gardens. Plant it with holly or boxwood to add different textures.
Scientific Classification
Related Plants
Related Articles
Most Common Shrub
# Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
# Useful Tips
Best Perennial Plant to Grow
# Useful Tips
Most Common Shrub
# Useful Tips
Discover more articles?
Read More 
Your Ultimate Guide to Plants
Identify, grow, and nurture the better way!
17,000 local species +400,000 global species studied
Nearly 5 years of research
80+ scholars in botany and gardening
Sign in/sign up
Continue reading in our app - it's better
A database of 400,000+ plants
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
unlimited guides at your fingertips...
Sign in/sign up
