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Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Epithelantha micromeris
The pingpong-ball cactus (Epithelantha micromeris) is a flowering globular cactus that grows in the wild in rocky crevices, cliff sides, and grassland deserts of Mexico and the American Southwest. This species produces an edible fruit and is often cultivated as a houseplant. It is also called button cactus.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Pingpong-ball cactus

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Drought-tolerant. Allow the soil to dry completely between watering.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once every 2-3 months during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Soil Care
Soil Care
Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
8 to 11
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Pingpong-ball cactus
Sunlight
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Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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Questions About Pingpong-ball cactus

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Watering Watering Watering
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What should I do if I water my Pingpong-ball cactus too much or too little?
Underwatered Pingpong-ball cactus Pingpong-ball cactus and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Pingpong-ball cactus looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering. It is very easy to identify an underwatered Pingpong-ball cactus. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out. If your Pingpong-ball cactus is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. Overwatered Pingpong-ball cactus Overwatering is dangerous to Pingpong-ball cactus and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example. The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms. It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Pingpong-ball cactus, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil. After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy. If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Pingpong-ball cactus. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved. Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Pingpong-ball cactus in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Pingpong-ball cactus?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Pingpong-ball cactus. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again. Most people will need to water Pingpong-ball cactus about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Pingpong-ball cactus?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Pingpong-ball cactus needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity. First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Pingpong-ball cactus in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Pingpong-ball cactus has shallow root systems. Pingpong-ball cactus will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer. This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning. Outdoor Planting If Pingpong-ball cactus is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Pingpong-ball cactus can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Pingpong-ball cactus kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Pingpong-ball cactus?
The best way to water Pingpong-ball cactus is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much. When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Pingpong-ball cactus enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged. Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Pingpong-ball cactus, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot. The original habitat of Pingpong-ball cactus is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Pingpong-ball cactus.
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Key Facts About Pingpong-ball cactus

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Attributes of Pingpong-ball cactus

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Plant Height
1 cm to 5 cm
Spread
2 cm to 4 cm
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Pink
White
Red
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
15 - 38 ℃

Symbolism

Endurance

Scientific Classification of Pingpong-ball cactus

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Common Pests & Diseases About Pingpong-ball cactus

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Common issues for Pingpong-ball cactus based on 10 million real cases
Longhorn beetles
Longhorn beetles Longhorn beetles
Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Gray mold
Gray mold Gray mold
Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Solutions: Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold. For minor fungus growth: Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts. Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants. For more serious fungus growth: Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
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Longhorn beetles
plant poor
Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Overview
Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.
Solutions
Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
  • Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
  • Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
  • To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
  • Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Gray mold
plant poor
Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Gray mold is a fungal bloom that can be quite detrimental to plants. The fungus is not host-specific, attacking both herbaceous and woody plants. It is one of the most destructive plant pathogens, affecting many ornamental flowering plants, fruits, and vegetable species worldwide.
The fungal spores survive on dead plant tissues, and the dusty, grey spores spread via air currents or splashing water droplets to readily infect delicate tissues like flowers and fruits. Infection rates are highest in wet or very humid conditions. Because of this, gray mold is common in plants raised in greenhouses.
If the disease is mild, plants can recover once conditions become warm and dry again. In severe cases, the grey mold blocks sunlight and air from getting to the plant tissues, resulting in plant death. Once detected, fungicides can prevent transmission, but they do not treat the established infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Most commonly, the plant will have dusty gray or darker brown fuzzy mold covering leaves, stems, flowers, or other plants parts. A closer look at the spots reveal damaged or decaying plant tissue, which is overtaken by the fuzzy spores. This is a classic sign of gray mold, a pathogenic fungus that feeds on the nutrients of dying plant material, and will eventually destroy healthy parts of plants once infected.
Flower petals may show brown spots, and infected buds may turn black or brown. Spots on leaves can form brown splotches that darken at the center as they increase in size. Blighting can affect entire leaves and progress down into the stems. This infection can result in death of the entire plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Gray mold is caused by a fungal infection with Botrytis cinerea. It breeds in dead leaves and plant debris, creating spores that can spread to nearby living plants via wind or splashing water. Infections are more likely to occur under certain conditions:
  • Plant injuries such as broken stems, damaged leaves, or pierced petals - the tissue becomes more susceptible to fungus when there are wounds that create openings into the plant.
  • High humidity or overly moist conditions - Botrytis thrives in wet conditions. Water and wind carry spores that splash against plants and create the ideal conditions for fungus growth.
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distribution

Distribution of Pingpong-ball cactus

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Habitat of Pingpong-ball cactus

Desert grasslands, Woodlands
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Pingpong-ball cactus

Pingpong-ball cactus is a cactus endemic to the desert regions of North America. With its native range restricted primarily to central parts of the continent, pingpong-ball cactus has also been successfully cultivated in suitable arid environments beyond its original habitat. Its adaptability allows it to thrive in areas that replicate the dry conditions of its native ecosystem.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Pingpong-ball Cactus Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Thriving in conditions akin to its natives, the pingpong-ball cactus necessitates ample amount of sunlight all throughout its life stages for ideal growth. It endures in lack of shades too. Too much light could lead to scorching, while not enough may impede growth rate and flowering.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
2-3 feet
The perfect time for transplanting pingpong-ball cactus is during late spring to early summer (S3-S5), when it's actively growing. Pick a sunny, well-draining location to stimulate healthy growth. Keep pingpong-ball cactus stress-free by watering thoroughly after transplant to help settle it. Always handle with care!
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
-5 - 43 ℃
Pingpong-ball cactus naturally grows in cool to warm climates, enjoying temperature ranges of 59 to 100°F (15 to 38°C). Although it can tolerate seasonal shifts, stable temperatures are best for its growth.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Feng shui direction
Northeast
The pingpong-ball cactus aligns harmoniously with the Northeast due to its sphere-like shape signifying completeness. This direction symbolizes Earth element in Feng Shui, hints at stability and nourishment, which complements the round aesthetics of the plant, contributing subtly to a tranquil environment. As with all Feng Shui indications, personal experiences might vary.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Pingpong-ball cactus

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Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
Pepper
Pepper
The pepper are commonly used for cooking in places such as the Southern U.S. and Central America. Most are moderately spicy, though because there are so many variants, the spice level can vary dramatically. Cayenne powder is also a popular seasoning product made from pepper plants.
Swiss cheese plant
Swiss cheese plant
The swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa) produces bright, glossy leaves and makes a popular houseplant. It is originally native to tropical forest regions in Central America. The nickname swiss cheese plant refers to the small holes that develop in the plant's leaves. The long fruits resemble corncobs and smell sweet and fragrant when ripe.
Snake plant
Snake plant
Snake plant can be considered a houseplant and an architectural display due to its sword-like leaves with bold striping patterns, which are distinctive and eye-catching. However, use caution with this plant because it is poisonous when ingested and can cause nausea, vomiting, and even swelling of the throat and tongue.
Bigleaf hydrangea
Bigleaf hydrangea
The bigleaf hydrangea is a deciduous shrub native to Japan, and is known for its lush, oval, colorful inflorescence. The two types of Hydrangea macrophylla are mopheads - with large, ball-shaped, sterile flower clusters, and lace capes - with small round fertile flowers in the center, and sterile flowers on the outer side of each inflorescence. Depending on soil pH, blooms can change color from pink to blue.
Corn plant
Corn plant
Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) is an evergreen, slow-growing perennial shrub native to tropical Africa. Also, it is a classic houseplant, grown in Europe since the 1800s. Its glossy green foliage that resembles corn leaves grow on top of a thick cane, which is why the plant is sometimes called “false palm tree.”
Peace lily
Peace lily
The peace lily gets its scientific name Spathiphyllum wallisii from a combination of the two Greek words ‘spath’ and ‘phyl’, which means spoon and leaves, respectively. The large graceful white spathe of the peace lily resembles a white flag, which is an international symbol of truce or peace.
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Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus
Epithelantha micromeris
The pingpong-ball cactus (Epithelantha micromeris) is a flowering globular cactus that grows in the wild in rocky crevices, cliff sides, and grassland deserts of Mexico and the American Southwest. This species produces an edible fruit and is often cultivated as a houseplant. It is also called button cactus.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
8 to 11
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care guide

Care Guide for Pingpong-ball cactus

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Questions About Pingpong-ball cactus

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What should I do if I water my Pingpong-ball cactus too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Pingpong-ball cactus?
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What should I consider when watering my Pingpong-ball cactus?
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Key Facts About Pingpong-ball cactus

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Attributes of Pingpong-ball cactus

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Succulent
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Plant Height
1 cm to 5 cm
Spread
2 cm to 4 cm
Flower Size
2.5 cm
Flower Color
Pink
White
Red
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
15 - 38 ℃
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Symbolism

Endurance

Scientific Classification of Pingpong-ball cactus

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Common Pests & Diseases About Pingpong-ball cactus

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Common issues for Pingpong-ball cactus based on 10 million real cases
Longhorn beetles
Longhorn beetles Longhorn beetles Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Solutions: Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control. Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees. Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree. Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees. To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated. Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Learn More About the Longhorn beetles more
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
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Gray mold
Gray mold Gray mold Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Solutions: Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold. For minor fungus growth: Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts. Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants. For more serious fungus growth: Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
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Longhorn beetles
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Longhorn beetles
The longhorn beetle is a medium- to large-sized insect with very long antennae and strong jaws. Both its adult and larval stages gnaw on tree trunks, leaving small, round holes.
Overview
Overview
Longhorn beetles are characterized by extremely long antennae which are often as long as, or longer, than the beetle's body. Adult longhorn beetles vary in size, shape, and coloration, depending upon the species. They may be 6 to 76 mm long. The larvae are worm-like with a wrinkled, white to yellowish body and a brown head.
Longhorn beetles are active throughout the year, but adults are most active in the summer and fall. Larvae feed on wood throughout the year.
Both larvae and adults feed on woody tissue. Some of the most susceptible species include ash, birch, elm, poplar, and willow.
If left untreated, longhorn beetles can kill trees.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Longhorn beetles are attracted to wounded, dying, or freshly-cut hardwood trees. Adults lay their eggs in the spring, summer, and fall on the bark of greenwood. There may be sap around egg-laying sites.
Once the eggs hatch, larvae called round-headed borers burrow into the trunk to feed. They may tunnel for one to three years depending on the wood's nutritional content. As the larvae feed, they release sawdust-like frass at the base of the tree.
Eventually, the larvae turn into pupae and then adults. When the adults emerge, they leave 1 cm holes in the bark on their way out. Adults feed on leaves, bark, and shoots of trees before laying eggs.
After a few years of being fed upon by longhorn beetles, a tree will begin losing leaves. Eventually, it will die.
Solutions
Solutions
Some longhorn beetles species are native insects, and they cause little damage. Therefore, these don't warrant control.
Other longhorn beetles species are invasive pests that were recently introduced from other areas. These species can cause a great deal of damage to hardwood trees.
  • Apply an insecticide containing imidacloprid as a soil injection or trunk injection following product instructions. This will enter into new grow and kill adults who feed on foliage. This will not help save trees that are already infested with large amounts of larvae, but it will save trees located near an infested tree.
  • Contact an arborist for best control practices regarding infected trees.
  • To properly control longhorn beetles, all host plants in a given area must be treated.
  • Contact a local extension agent or state agency. Tracking the spread of longhorn beetles is a key component of their control.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Keeping trees healthy, uninjured, and unstressed will help prevent beetle infestation. Water trees appropriately, giving neither too much nor too little.
  • Check with local tree companies about which tree species have fewer problems.
  • Avoid moving firewood as this can introduce exotic longhorn beetles.
  • Routine spraying of persistent, broad-spectrum insecticides will help prevent re-infestation of previously affected trees or infestation of unaffected trees.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Gray mold
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Gray mold
Gray mold generates a gray-brown mold on the leaf surface that can be wiped away.
Overview
Overview
Gray mold is a fungal bloom that can be quite detrimental to plants. The fungus is not host-specific, attacking both herbaceous and woody plants. It is one of the most destructive plant pathogens, affecting many ornamental flowering plants, fruits, and vegetable species worldwide.
The fungal spores survive on dead plant tissues, and the dusty, grey spores spread via air currents or splashing water droplets to readily infect delicate tissues like flowers and fruits. Infection rates are highest in wet or very humid conditions. Because of this, gray mold is common in plants raised in greenhouses.
If the disease is mild, plants can recover once conditions become warm and dry again. In severe cases, the grey mold blocks sunlight and air from getting to the plant tissues, resulting in plant death. Once detected, fungicides can prevent transmission, but they do not treat the established infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Most commonly, the plant will have dusty gray or darker brown fuzzy mold covering leaves, stems, flowers, or other plants parts. A closer look at the spots reveal damaged or decaying plant tissue, which is overtaken by the fuzzy spores. This is a classic sign of gray mold, a pathogenic fungus that feeds on the nutrients of dying plant material, and will eventually destroy healthy parts of plants once infected.
Flower petals may show brown spots, and infected buds may turn black or brown. Spots on leaves can form brown splotches that darken at the center as they increase in size. Blighting can affect entire leaves and progress down into the stems. This infection can result in death of the entire plant.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Gray mold is caused by a fungal infection with Botrytis cinerea. It breeds in dead leaves and plant debris, creating spores that can spread to nearby living plants via wind or splashing water. Infections are more likely to occur under certain conditions:
  • Plant injuries such as broken stems, damaged leaves, or pierced petals - the tissue becomes more susceptible to fungus when there are wounds that create openings into the plant.
  • High humidity or overly moist conditions - Botrytis thrives in wet conditions. Water and wind carry spores that splash against plants and create the ideal conditions for fungus growth.
Solutions
Solutions
Simple measures can be taken to reduce and stop the spread of gray mold.
For minor fungus growth:
  • Remove infected tissue. Remove and burn, dispose, or bury infected plants and plant parts. Infected parts can be deeply buried (at least 30 cm down) if burning is not permitted. Be sure to clean and disinfect pruning equipment to prevent the spread of infection. Do not compost infected parts.
  • Remove debris. Clean between plants to prevent the spread to other surrounding plants. Pick up remaining debris around plants to reduce or eliminate mold spores from traveling to other plants.
For more serious fungus growth:
  • Use organic fungicide. Treat the entire plant with an organic fungicide as early as possible. A copper fungicide can be applied every 1-2 weeks once the plants are infected, and repeat until healed.
Prevention
Prevention
As with most fungal diseases, it is far easier to take steps to prevent gray mold than it is to treat it once it appears. Here are some steps.
  • Use proper spacing. When first planting plants, space plants apart at the recommended spacing. Be sure that they are getting enough air flow and water will not collect between them.
  • Apply mulch around plants. A good organic mulch spread directly around plants can prevent water splashing mold spores up to them.
  • Keep plants dry. Do not overhead water. Use drip irrigation or water at the base to prevent leaves from becoming too wet and inviting mold growth.
  • Be careful not to wound plants. Wounded parts make plants more susceptible to fungus. Take care when harvesting, pruning, or caring for the garden to prevent unnecessary plant injury.
  • Sanitize. Make sure to sanitize pruning equipment and other garden tools to prevent the spread of pathogens.
  • Use fungicide. To prevent gray mold from getting started, apply a fungicide in the early spring.
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distribution

Distribution of Pingpong-ball cactus

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Habitat of Pingpong-ball cactus

Desert grasslands, Woodlands
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Pingpong-ball cactus

Pingpong-ball cactus is a cactus endemic to the desert regions of North America. With its native range restricted primarily to central parts of the continent, pingpong-ball cactus has also been successfully cultivated in suitable arid environments beyond its original habitat. Its adaptability allows it to thrive in areas that replicate the dry conditions of its native ecosystem.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Pingpong-ball Cactus Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Pingpong-ball cactus

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Thriving in conditions akin to its natives, the pingpong-ball cactus necessitates ample amount of sunlight all throughout its life stages for ideal growth. It endures in lack of shades too. Too much light could lead to scorching, while not enough may impede growth rate and flowering.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Pingpong-ball cactus is a beloved choice for indoor gardening, and they require strong light to thrive. However, when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting, they may develop symptoms of light deficiency.
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Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Pingpong-ball cactus may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Pingpong-ball cactus enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Pingpong-ball cactus require strong light to thrive, and some are remarkably resilient to sun exposure, rarely suffering from sunburn.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Pingpong-ball cactus naturally grows in cool to warm climates, enjoying temperature ranges of 59 to 100°F (15 to 38°C). Although it can tolerate seasonal shifts, stable temperatures are best for its growth.
Regional wintering strategies
Pingpong-ball cactus is a heat-loving plant that gradually stops growing and enters a dormant state during the winter. When the outdoor temperature drops below {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}, it should be moved indoors for cultivation. Choose a location near a south-facing window to provide as much sunlight as possible. If there is insufficient natural light, supplemental lighting can be used. When the temperature falls below {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}, the plant's growth slows down, and watering should be reduced or stopped to prevent root rot. For Pingpong-ball cactus grown outdoors, watering should be completely halted during low temperatures. If feasible, you can set up a temporary greenhouse for insulation or use materials such as plastic film or fabric to wrap the plant during cold temperatures.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Pingpong-ball cactus
Pingpong-ball cactus thrives in high temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It grows best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the plant may become weak, wilt, and be prone to root rot. In cases of mild frost damage, there may not be any initial symptoms, but after a week, the plant will gradually wither.
Solutions
Trim off the frostbitten areas, paying attention to whether the roots have rotted. If the roots have rotted, they need to be cut off, and the plant can be propagated through cuttings. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment and place the plant near a south-facing window to ensure ample sunlight. If there is insufficient light, you can use supplemental lighting.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Pingpong-ball cactus
During summer, Pingpong-ball cactus should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the plant's growth will cease, it will experience water loss, wilting, and becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Remove the sunburned and rotten parts. Shield the plant from afternoon sunlight until it recovers and starts growing again. For plants with root rot, stop watering until new roots begin to emerge.
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