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Care Guide
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Pests & Diseases
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Distribution
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Dwarf witchalder
Fothergilla gardenii
Also known as : Dwarf fothergilla
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 8
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Care Guide for Dwarf witchalder

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Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
5 to 8
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Dwarf witchalder
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
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Key Facts About Dwarf witchalder

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Attributes of Dwarf witchalder

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Spring
Plant Height
91 cm to 1.8 m
Spread
1.2 m to 1.8 m
Leaf Color
Red
Blue
Green
Orange
Flower Size
2.5 cm to 8 cm
Flower Color
White
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
5 - 32 ℃
Growth Rate:Moderate
During the active growth seasons of Spring and Summer, dwarf witchalder exhibits a moderate growth rate. This manifests as steady height increment, progressive leaf production, and flowering. The temperate climatic conditions during these seasons provide optimal conditions for its growth, influencing balanced development and preventing extreme, potentially detrimental rapid growth. This growth speed also enables dwarf witchalder to invest energy in robust root systems- a distinctive horticultural characteristic of the species.

Scientific Classification of Dwarf witchalder

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Common Pests & Diseases About Dwarf witchalder

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Common issues for Dwarf witchalder based on 10 million real cases
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Gall
Gall Gall
Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Solutions: While galls may look alarming, the physical structures themselves pose little threat to the plant or tree and do not require chemical treatment. If the galls are unsightly, they can be removed using sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruners or loppers. Discard or destroy all removed plant parts. It is important to treat the underlying cause, as insects or diseases can create long-term damage if left untreated. After identifying the pest, natural or chemical may be used, depending upon individual gardening preferences. To treat pests naturally apply an insecticidal soap. Dilute 1 tablespoon of soap per quart of water in a spray bottle and mix gently. Spray the entire plant until the leaves are dripping, making sure to coat the underside and tops. Re-spray every 2 to 3 days. To treat organically apply neem oil, a naturally occurring pesticide, per label directions every 7 days until pests are eradicated. To treat chemically apply an insecticidal foliar spray. Follow the dosing instructions provided by the manufacturer on the product label. For fungal or bacterial causes, apply a bactericide or copper-based fungicide in the spring, following the dosing instructions provided on the product label.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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Leaf Weevils
plant poor
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
  • Spray the foliage with an insecticide
  • Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
  • Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
  • Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
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qrcode
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Gall
plant poor
Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Overview
Overview
A general symptom of plant irritation, a gall is a spherical or lumpy, tumor-like growth that appears on leaves, stems, branches and trunks of various plants, especially trees. Galls form around a potential problem or irritation, like a pearl forming around a bit of sand in an oyster shell, to separate the cause from the rest of the plant. Many form around insect damage or a localized infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Abnormal growths appear on leaves or other parts of the plant. The brown or brightly colored bumps may be simple or complicated structures.
  • Leaf galls appear on most herbaceous plants and trees. They are more prone to develop on new growth and following mild winters in which insects and diseases were not killed by the cold.
  • Leaf galls look like leaf curls, nipples, blisters, or erineums (hairy growths) and can occur on upper or lower leaf surfaces.
  • Bud or flower galls cause these parts to be deformed in size or shape.
  • Stem and twig galls cause deformed growth on twigs and stems, with symptom severity ranging from slight swelling to large, knot-like growth.
  • Stunted plant growth is possible, as galls steal nutrients from the plant.
  • Long-lasting damage can occur if there are many galls or galls present for a long period of time.
It's important to note that galls, especially leaf galls, are extremely common. Noticing galls is not a cause to panic – most plants will have galls from time to time. However, it is when they are widespread or long-lasting that steps will need to be taken to remove them.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are many different processes and organisms that produce galls. Some appear when sap-sucking insects feed on leaves; some shelter developing insect eggs; some develop as a response to fungal or bacterial infection.
The most common culprits include:
  • Feeding or egg-laying mites and insects - the saliva and other secretions cause the plants to produce more growth hormones.
  • High hormone production resulting in increased cell numbers or cell size (because of this, mature plants tend not to be affected).
  • Fungal infection
  • Galls forming on leaf blades and sheaths are more often caused by viruses or bacteria.
  • Nematodes can also cause galls to form on plants, but these tend to form in the roots.
  • Parasitic plants such as mistletoe can cause galls on their hosts.
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qrcode
Scan the QR code with your phone camera to download the app
Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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distribution

Distribution of Dwarf witchalder

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Habitat of Dwarf witchalder

Sunny, higher ground in swamps and adjacent moist, grassy areas

Distribution Map of Dwarf witchalder

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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About
Care Guide
More Info
Pests & Diseases
Distribution
Dwarf witchalder
Fothergilla gardenii
Also known as: Dwarf fothergilla
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
5 to 8
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care guide

Care Guide for Dwarf witchalder

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Key Facts About Dwarf witchalder

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Attributes of Dwarf witchalder

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Bloom Time
Spring
Plant Height
91 cm to 1.8 m
Spread
1.2 m to 1.8 m
Leaf Color
Red
Blue
Green
Orange
Flower Size
2.5 cm to 8 cm
Flower Color
White
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
5 - 32 ℃
Growth Rate:Moderate
During the active growth seasons of Spring and Summer, dwarf witchalder exhibits a moderate growth rate. This manifests as steady height increment, progressive leaf production, and flowering. The temperate climatic conditions during these seasons provide optimal conditions for its growth, influencing balanced development and preventing extreme, potentially detrimental rapid growth. This growth speed also enables dwarf witchalder to invest energy in robust root systems- a distinctive horticultural characteristic of the species.
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Scientific Classification of Dwarf witchalder

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Dwarf witchalder

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Common issues for Dwarf witchalder based on 10 million real cases
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Flower withering more
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Solutions: Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do: Spray the foliage with an insecticide Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil. Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae. Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Learn More About the Leaf Weevils more
Gall
Gall Gall Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Solutions: While galls may look alarming, the physical structures themselves pose little threat to the plant or tree and do not require chemical treatment. If the galls are unsightly, they can be removed using sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruners or loppers. Discard or destroy all removed plant parts. It is important to treat the underlying cause, as insects or diseases can create long-term damage if left untreated. After identifying the pest, natural or chemical may be used, depending upon individual gardening preferences. To treat pests naturally apply an insecticidal soap. Dilute 1 tablespoon of soap per quart of water in a spray bottle and mix gently. Spray the entire plant until the leaves are dripping, making sure to coat the underside and tops. Re-spray every 2 to 3 days. To treat organically apply neem oil, a naturally occurring pesticide, per label directions every 7 days until pests are eradicated. To treat chemically apply an insecticidal foliar spray. Follow the dosing instructions provided by the manufacturer on the product label. For fungal or bacterial causes, apply a bactericide or copper-based fungicide in the spring, following the dosing instructions provided on the product label.
Learn More About the Gall more
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
close
Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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Leaf Weevils
plant poor
Leaf Weevils
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants.
Overview
Overview
Leaf Weevils are insects that feed on the leaves of plants. They can cause major damage to both edible and non-edible plants. Watch out for these garden pests and use control measures to get rid of them as soon as the problem is noticed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf Weevils are small flightless insects that are typically around 6 mm long. They have a hard body that is oval shaped and covered in short hairs, a long snout on their head that is downward facing, and 3 pairs of legs with hooked claws.
Once mated, the female weevil with lay around 20 eggs at one time, either in leaf litter on the ground or sometimes on the soil. Weevils generally only produce one batch of eggs a year but may produce 2 if conditions are ideal.
The eggs take around 6 to 15 days to hatch. When the larva emerges, it burrows into the soil. These larvae have chewing mouth parts and no legs. They feed on the roots of the plants. When this happens, you may see signs of wilting of the leaves, stems, and flowers as the plant can’t deliver enough water from the roots to the above-ground growing parts.
Eventually, the larva evolves into a soft white pupa. The pupating period normally takes around 1 to 3 weeks. After this, the adult leaf weevil will emerge and crawl up the plant to feed on the leaves.
Adult leaf Weevils feed on young leaves, stems, flowers, and buds of almost any plant. This includes many varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as ornamental plants. This creates irregular round holes in the leaves. These holes normally start at the edges of the leaf. Holes may also be made in flowers, lesions may be caused on the skin of fruit, and sometimes whole stems are chewed off.
These insects prefer a humid environment with warm temperatures. They are mostly active during the night and will hide in leaf litter, mulch, and other debris during the day.
Solutions
Solutions
Leaf Weevils are relatively easy to control once their presence is discovered. Here’s what to do:
  • Spray the foliage with an insecticide
  • Place sticky traps around the lower trunks of fruit trees and other woody plants. Weevils can’t fly, and have to crawl up the plants when they emerge from the soil.
  • Dig into the soil around plants with a garden fork and remove and dispose of any larvae.
  • Let chickens roam around the garden, as they love to feed on weevil larvae.
Prevention
Prevention
There are various ways to keep leaf Weevils away from plants.
  • Remove weeds such as dandelion, capeweed, portulaca, mallow, sorrel, and dock. Leaf Weevils are attracted to these weeds and will set up a colony.
  • Make sure fruit trees are well spaced from each other. This ensures that the weevils and their larvae don’t spread from one tree to the next.
  • Cultivate the soil before planting a new crop. This allows any larvae or pupae in the soil to be unearthed and disposed of.
  • Regularly fertilize the soil to encourage both earthworm and microbial activity.
  • Check plants regularly to see any signs of leaf weevil activity. Also check under loose bark, mulch, leaf litter, and in the junction of stems on the plant.
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unlimited guides at your fingertips...
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Gall
plant poor
Gall
Insects or diseases can cause strange protrusions on the leaves, sometimes manifesting in a range of colors and shapes.
Overview
Overview
A general symptom of plant irritation, a gall is a spherical or lumpy, tumor-like growth that appears on leaves, stems, branches and trunks of various plants, especially trees. Galls form around a potential problem or irritation, like a pearl forming around a bit of sand in an oyster shell, to separate the cause from the rest of the plant. Many form around insect damage or a localized infection.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Abnormal growths appear on leaves or other parts of the plant. The brown or brightly colored bumps may be simple or complicated structures.
  • Leaf galls appear on most herbaceous plants and trees. They are more prone to develop on new growth and following mild winters in which insects and diseases were not killed by the cold.
  • Leaf galls look like leaf curls, nipples, blisters, or erineums (hairy growths) and can occur on upper or lower leaf surfaces.
  • Bud or flower galls cause these parts to be deformed in size or shape.
  • Stem and twig galls cause deformed growth on twigs and stems, with symptom severity ranging from slight swelling to large, knot-like growth.
  • Stunted plant growth is possible, as galls steal nutrients from the plant.
  • Long-lasting damage can occur if there are many galls or galls present for a long period of time.
It's important to note that galls, especially leaf galls, are extremely common. Noticing galls is not a cause to panic – most plants will have galls from time to time. However, it is when they are widespread or long-lasting that steps will need to be taken to remove them.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are many different processes and organisms that produce galls. Some appear when sap-sucking insects feed on leaves; some shelter developing insect eggs; some develop as a response to fungal or bacterial infection.
The most common culprits include:
  • Feeding or egg-laying mites and insects - the saliva and other secretions cause the plants to produce more growth hormones.
  • High hormone production resulting in increased cell numbers or cell size (because of this, mature plants tend not to be affected).
  • Fungal infection
  • Galls forming on leaf blades and sheaths are more often caused by viruses or bacteria.
  • Nematodes can also cause galls to form on plants, but these tend to form in the roots.
  • Parasitic plants such as mistletoe can cause galls on their hosts.
Solutions
Solutions
While galls may look alarming, the physical structures themselves pose little threat to the plant or tree and do not require chemical treatment. If the galls are unsightly, they can be removed using sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruners or loppers. Discard or destroy all removed plant parts.
It is important to treat the underlying cause, as insects or diseases can create long-term damage if left untreated. After identifying the pest, natural or chemical may be used, depending upon individual gardening preferences.
  • To treat pests naturally apply an insecticidal soap. Dilute 1 tablespoon of soap per quart of water in a spray bottle and mix gently. Spray the entire plant until the leaves are dripping, making sure to coat the underside and tops. Re-spray every 2 to 3 days.
  • To treat organically apply neem oil, a naturally occurring pesticide, per label directions every 7 days until pests are eradicated.
  • To treat chemically apply an insecticidal foliar spray. Follow the dosing instructions provided by the manufacturer on the product label.
  • For fungal or bacterial causes, apply a bactericide or copper-based fungicide in the spring, following the dosing instructions provided on the product label.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent the common causes of gall:
  • Rake up all fallen leaves at the end of the growing season, and dispose of the leaves and all other plant debris to get rid of sites where gall producers can overwinter.
  • Avoid over-fertilizing plants, as it induces stress, making them more susceptible to pest problems.
  • Keep plants well-watered, preventing drought stress.
  • Apply dormant oil in early spring to control leaf-eating insects.
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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distribution

Distribution of Dwarf witchalder

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Habitat of Dwarf witchalder

Sunny, higher ground in swamps and adjacent moist, grassy areas

Distribution Map of Dwarf witchalder

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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