Strawberry (Fragaria ananassa) Flower, Leaf, Care, Uses

During the active growing season, Garden strawberry needs plenty of water, particularly during the fruiting season. Strawberries like moist, but not soggy soil. The plants should be watered whenever the soil starts drying out, but make sure that the soil doesn't dry out too much. Water the plants in the morning and be sure not to overwater them. A drip system is a good option to keep the plants well-hydrated.

Fertilization

Feed strawberry once in spring with a fertilizer specifically formulated for berries. You can also add an organic fertilizer in the spring and feed again in midseason using a balanced fertilizer. Well-rotted manure, garden compost, fish, feather, or bone meal are good options. Try not to overfertilize.

Pruning

Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.

Soil

Loam, Sandy loam, Clay, Slightly acidic

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

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Strawberry

Water

Twice per week

Sunlight

Full sun

Hardiness Zones

4 to 8

Planting Time

Fall, Spring

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Questions About Strawberry

Watering

Pruning

Sunlight

Temperature

Fertilizing

What is the best way to water my Strawberry?

Not only does the Strawberry have certain preferences regarding how much water it receives, but it also cares deeply about how you provide that water. In fact, if you don't use the proper watering technique, you risk harming your tomatoes. The best way to water Strawberry is to apply the water directly to the soil in a slow and gentle manner. You should not pour all of the water into the soil at once, and you should not do overhead watering for your Strawberry. Although you should water slowly, you should also water deeply to ensure that all of the soil in which your Strawberry grows is sufficiently moist.

What should I do if I water my Strawberry too much or too little?

If you find that you have overwatered your Strawberry and you are concerned about the associated risk of disease, you should intervene immediately. Often the best approach for an overwatered Strawberry is to uproot it from its current growing location. Once the plant is out of the ground, you can allow its roots to dry a bit before planting it in a new growing location. Ensure that the new growing location has soil with good drainage. If you grow in pots, you may also want to move your plant to a pot with more or larger drainage holes. In the case of underwatering, all you will need to do is increase the frequency with which you supply water to your plant.

How often should I water my Strawberry?

Overall, Strawberry requires a significant amount of water throughout the growing season. To meet that high water need, you'll need to water early and often throughout the spring and summer. During the earlier parts of the growing season, you should water your Strawberry about once or twice per week. As the season progresses, you should increase your watering frequency. You may need to water it twice per day or more during summer, depending on the weather. After your Strawberry have gone through their major seasonal growth phases, you can reduce the frequency of your watering to about once per week until the end of the growing season.

How much water does my Strawberry need?

Since Strawberry are incredibly popular, with many professional and amateur gardeners growing them successfully, we have a pretty clear idea of how to care for these plants. That understanding includes specific knowledge about the precise volume of water an average Strawberry should receive. Generally, Strawberry will require about 1 - 1.5 inches of water per week. That volume should be dispersed evenly through your weekly watering. As the weather gets warmer, you may need to supply more water, but in most cases, two inches per week is a good baseline amount.

How can I tell if i'm watering my Strawberry enough?

Underwatering and overwatering can both occur as problems for your Strawberry, and both these problems can manifest with similar symptoms. For example, foliage discoloration and wilting can both result from either overwatering or underwatering. When your Strawberry is underwatered, its leaves will be curling and drooping at the beginning. You will see a bunch of leaves turn less vigorous. Underwatering is also likely to cause stunted growth and poor overall development as both the flowers and this plant require a high amount of water. Overwatering is more likely to lead to disease, including rot. Overwatering may also lead to unpleasant smells rising from your plant's soil. The symptoms of underwatering will show up quicker than overwatering. Overwatering can also be evident in soil conditions. Mainly, if you notice a lot of standing water or waterlogged soils, overwatering is likely to occur.

How should I water my Strawberry through the seasons?

As alluded to above, your Strawberry's water needs will repeatedly change throughout the seasons. During most of spring and summer, you should water your Strawberry about once every week. As the heat of summer arrives, you should plan to increase your watering frequency to once or twice per day. In the late summer and fall, towards the end of the harvest period, you can reduce your watering frequency to about once per week. After harvest has ended, you can cease watering as your Strawberry has reached the end of its life cycle and will require no further soil moisture.

The maintenance schedule of Strawberry will require you to alter the amount of water you provide depending on the plant's current growth stage. Early on, especially if you grow your Strawberry from seeds, you'll need to provide water often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture, which encourages root development. When the plant becomes old enough to produce flowers, it will likely need even more water. During the fruit development growth stage, your Strawberry will likely need the most water out of any growth period, at times requiring water more than twice per day. Following that phase, the water needs of Strawberry will decline significantly.

What's the difference between watering Strawberry indoors and outdoors?

Whether you grow Strawberry indoors or outdoors can also play a role in how you water them. Strawberry that grows outdoors may receive water from natural rainfall, which will reduce the amount of supplemental water you should supply. However, it is incredibly rare for rainfall to adequately replace your watering entirely. Plants that grow indoors, along with any Strawberry that grows in a container, will need to be watered more frequently than those that grow in the ground outdoors. If you choose this route, please make sure that the plant gets enough water by checking the soil moisture within your pot often to keep your Strawberry healthy.

Does my Strawberry need to be pruned?

While you can let Strawberry run wild, you’ll get a better crop yield and healthier plants when you prune them. Strawberry are very susceptible to fungus when not pruned properly as it flourishes in areas where there’s a lot of moisture from rotting fruits, weeds, and dead/dying leaves. Proper upkeep by removing diseased, dead, or yellow leaves can reduce the amount of organic matter for the fungus to grow. Besides preventing disease, pruning your Strawberry can also yield more fruit during harvest. Pinching back some of the smaller flower blooms will allow the plant to focus its energy on producing flowers and fruits. Once the fruits have emerged, you can also thin out the smaller ones to reduce resource competition.

When is the best time to prune my Strawberry?

When to prune depends a lot on the Strawberry growth phase. You should avoid removing any healthy foliage before the plant starts flowering and fruiting as it can have a negative effect on fruit yield. With that said, you can remove dead leaves at any time as that will keep your plant healthy and ward off potential pests and diseases. Look for any leaves that are yellow or brown and have lost their glossiness. Leaving behind dead leaves can prevent air circulation, which can result in the growth of fungus(spot on leaf or mold on fruit). As your fruits start growing and ripening, keep an eye out for overcrowding. The more fruits there are on a plant, the smaller they will grow. Plus, too many fruits can lead to poor air circulation, which can lead to fungus. Removing some of the fruits won’t harm overall yield too much. Plus, most people will plant more than one for their garden. In fact, you should probably expect to have around 7 to 10 plants per person to ensure enough fruit during the season.

What should I do after pruning my Strawberry?

After pruning, always remove any clippings from the bed either by composting or disposing of them. Always make sure to fertilize and water the plants after you clear the debris as it can help give enough energy and nutrients to form new buds and crops. To ensure maximum fruit production the following year, make sure to give the plants at least one inch of water a week after you move them up until the first frost. When you’ve collected the last harvest and mowed back the plants, place a layer of mulch on top of the plants to protect them against the cold winter. Low temperatures can damage roots and crowns, leading to little to no yield the following spring. The best mulch to use is clean hay or straw as they won’t mat down and smother the plants.

How can I prune my Strawberry during different growth stages?

Sure, wild Strawberry might grow just fine without pruning, but for the healthiest plants and best yields, you’ll want to prune your plant. In the first year of planting, pinch back the flowers on all varieties to encourage vigorous growth. Prune prune back the first growth of flowers and then allow the other flowers to bloom. During their second season and onwards, you can let the plant flower as normal and focus only on removing old and/or dead leaves. Some gardeners also suggest keeping the number of fruit low on the plant as it could help reduce competition and lead to larger fruit sizes. However, this technique is disputed and not used in many greenhouses. You can always test it out by removing small fruits from a few plants to see if the overall size of the finished fruit is larger than on your other plants.

How can I prune my Strawberry during different seasons?

There are a few times throughout the year when you’ll want to prune Strawberry. If you’re putting new plants in the ground, you should prune only after the plant has already started to blossom and/or fruit as removing any healthy leaves can affect fruit production. Only remove leaves that are yellowed or diseased. You can do this throughout the growing season to keep your plants healthy. You can start pinching back blossoms when they bloom in the spring/summer and fruits during the summer.

What are other tips and tricks for pruning my Strawberry?

The Strawberry is particularly susceptible to fungus that occurs in damp environments with poor circulation. If you’re growing Strawberry in matted rows, it’s easy for this fungus to spread, so you’ll want to keep your bed neatly pruned. Affected plants will have blossoms and fruits covered in a dusty, fungus. If you notice fungus (spot on leaf or mold on fruit), prune infected blossoms, fruits, and dead leaves immediately.

Are there any instructions for pruning my Strawberry?

Pruning your Strawberry means higher fruit yields, and who doesn’t want that? You’ll need some gardening gloves and sharp scissors or garden shears for clean cuts. You should check for any dead or old leaves and remove them as necessary throughout the spring and summer months. If you notice any disease or rot, remove the entire plant and soil to prevent the spread of infection. When pinching back flowers, prune the stalks at the base where they join the rest of the plant. Only remove the smallest flowers at first as those will produce the smallest fruit. You can also use a pair of scissors if you have a lot of Strawberrys, but you should look carefully before making your cut as you could accidentally cut off healthy flowers. If you decide not to pinch back the flowers, you may need to remove unripe fruit if you notice the plant getting too crowded. Remove any damaged fruit along with fruit that are significantly smaller than the others and/or aren’t developing properly. You should use a pair of sharp scissors and cut.

Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Strawberry?

Strawberry is particularly susceptible to fungus that occurs in damp environments with poor circulation. If you’re growing Strawberry in matted rows, it’s easy for this fungus to spread, so you’ll want to keep your bed neatly pruned. Affected plants will have blossoms and fruits covered in a dusty, fungus. If you notice fungus (spot on leaf or mold on fruit), prune infected blossoms, fruits, and dead leaves immediately.

What type of sunlight does Strawberry need?

Strawberry needs full sun every day, and these plants rely on a minimum of six hours of sunlight to keep their leaves, roots, and blooms in a healthy state. Even though most perennials need six hours of sunlight a day, plants like the Orange Daylily or Giant Coreopsis could live off less sun for a minimum of three hours daily. Even though these perennial flowering plants can live with only three hours of direct sunlight, they won't be able to thrive like they would in sunnier conditions.

Can sunlight damage Strawberry? How to protect Strawberry from the sun and heat damage?

The few Perennial Flowering Plants that don't like excessive heat in warm climates might react poorly to too much sun if they have heat damage. These plants may wilt or dry out from too much sun and may also develop growth issues if they're regularly in the sun during the most intense heat of the day. Some plants don't need protection from the light afternoon sun, but those that are harmed by intense afternoon exposure should be provided some shade in warmer climates. Gardeners could give these plants plenty of shade by planting them in spots that don't receive direct heat during the afternoon, like under trees or behind bushes.

Should I protect Strawberry from sun exposure?

While many perennial plants need plenty of sun to bloom to their fullest extent, some of them benefit from less sun in warmer climates. For example, people who live in hotter climates might want to provide shade for their flowering perennials in the hot afternoon sun, and this is even more true for months in the summer.

Even though some perennial flowering plants will benefit from partially shaded in the hottest climates, plants like the Giant Coreopsis aren't intimidated by too much sun. They might sit outside in the full sun in hot weather and still thrive.

What will happen if Strawberry gets inadequate sunlight?

If you're growing Strawberry and you aren't getting enough sunlight, you'll notice signs of inadequate requirements in your plants. Most plants won't produce as many blooms as they would if they had full sun exposure. Some plants will develop dry spots on their leaves, but most of these plants will still bloom in the inadequate sun. Even though they bloom, the flowers will be smaller and less full.

Does Strawberry need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?

Strawberry is great flowers in gardens and will have optimum blooming if it gets six hours of sunlight a day minimum. Sometimes, flowers stay fresh longer if they're partially shaded during the really hot parts of the day. When Strawberry is young, gardeners want to ensure their younger plants are getting plenty of sunlight but don't have to endure intense heat during the afternoon sunlight. If you have a fully mature plant, provide it with plenty of sun so it may keep up its growth properly.

How much light does Strawberry need for photosynthesis?

Strawberry will need a minimum of six hours of light to best support their photosynthesis cycles. These flowering plants need the sun to help their foliage and blooms grow. However, certain perennial flowering plants like the Giant Coreopsis might need anywhere from eight to twelve hours of full sun a day to maintain their large flowers and healthy foliage.

How much light should Strawberry get per day to grow healthily?

If you want your Strawberry to grow healthy and bloom as much as possible during its blooming season, you should try to give your plant six hours of direct sunlight. Some perennial plants might even do more sunlight and could sit in the sun for up to twelve hours, depending on the heat in the area and the general environment. Plants like the Red Hot Poker and Giant Coreopsis thrive in much hotter climates and might sit in all types of strong sunlight.

Some home gardeners have to use grow lights because their spaces don't allow for tons of outdoor sunlight. Most perennials could grow happily in grow lights, but they will need anywhere from eight to fourteen hours of artificial light to stay strong since these lights don't have as much power as the sun.

What is the optimal temperature for Strawberry?

The best temperature for Strawberry depends on the time of year. There are two primary seasons to discuss for temperature: the growing season, and the dormancy season. During the growing season, once Strawberry has begun to sprout, the ideal temperature range should be anywhere from 65~80℉(18~27℃). Any colder than 15℉(-10℃), and the plant will suffer; its leaves may brown and wilt, but if this is a short cold snap, then Strawberry may be able to survive with some help.

During the warmer parts of the year, Strawberry will need to be similarly protected from temperatures that are too high. 95-105℉ (35-40℃) is the top of this plant’s temperature range, and anything above that will compromise the integrity of the foliage and blooms of Strawberry. Hotter temperatures can cause wilting, drooping, and even sunburn on the leaves, which can be difficult for Strawberry to recover from. There are quite a few ways to combat this issue that are quick and easy!

Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Strawberry

If this is the first year of your Strawberry outside as a new plant, then it may need a little extra tending during the coldest months of the year. Not only can frost more severely damage a first-year Strawberry, but it can also prevent it from growing back as a healthy plant come spring. This plant needs to be kept at 40℉(5℃) or above when they’re not yet established, which can be done either by bringing your Strawberry inside for a month or two, or putting up mulch or fabric barriers that protect from frost damage.

It’s also a good idea to plant Strawberry in a shadier spot during the first year or two, as smaller and weaker plants have a more difficult time maintaining their own temperatures in the heat. First-year Strawberry should receive no more than five hours of direct sunlight per day, particularly if the ambient daytime temperature gets above 80℉(27℃). Shadecloth and frequent watering or misting are the keys to summer heat control.

How can I protect Strawberry from extreme temperatures?

If cold temperatures (below 15℉(-10℃)) do occur during the growing season, there are a few measures you can take to help protect Strawberry from frost or cold damage. If you’re growing Strawberry in a container, then the container can simply be brought inside in bright, indirect light until the temperatures rise up over the lower threshold again. Another option that’s better suited for ground-planted Strawberry is to use mulch or horticultural fabric to create an insulated barrier around the plant, which will protect the plant from frost and cold wind.

For temperatures that are hotter than 80℉(27℃) in the shade during the day, be careful to only expose Strawberry to six hours or less of sunlight per day, preferably in the morning hours. Putting up shade cloth, or a fine plastic mesh, can help reduce the amount of direct sunlight that hits the plant during the hottest parts of the day. You can also install a misting system that allows for a slow release of cooling mist around the base of the plant during the day to lower ground temperatures.

Dormant season temperature recommendations for Strawberry

During the cold winter months, Strawberry needs a certain measure of cold in order to stay in dormancy until it’s time to sprout. Sprouting too early, that is before the danger of the last frost has passed, can be fatal to Strawberry, especially if it’s already had a head start when the frost hits. Winter temperatures should ideally stay below 32℉(0℃), but if they get up to 40℉(5℃), everything will be just fine.

An unexpected warm spell during the cold months, which can happen in more temperate climates like woodland rainforests, can trigger a premature sprout from Strawberry. In this case, if there’s still imminent danger of frost, you may want to try covering it with clear plastic on stakes so that the cold has less of a chance of damaging the new sprout. This setup can be removed when the danger of frost has passed. Occasionally, Strawberry will be able to resprout at the correct time without any help, but this method increases the chances of a successful second sprouting.

Why do I need to fertilize my Strawberry?

The growth of plants continues to deplete the soil of nutrients, especially those of the fast growing types. So regular fertilization to give Strawberry some extra supply of nutrients will not only help it stay healthy, but will also allow it to grow more and more delicious fruit. Plants may face many problems if they have not been fertilized for a long time. Nutrient deficiency can cause foliage issues, most commonly yellow leaves. Leaves may also develop a reddish color, shape deformities, withered tips, or dieback across large portions of the plant. Some types of nutrient deficiency can cause bark disorders, slow growth, poor shoot development, and a lack of fruit production.

When is the best time to fertilize my Strawberry?

The best time to fertilize is in the early spring, before the buds emerge. As Strawberry energes from winter dormancy, it uses the reserves that were stored up over the winter to put out new growth. Lots of energy will be needed to support the development of blooms, so fertilizing about 2 to 4 weeks before you expect it to bloom provides enough time for the nutrients to soak into the soil and then be absorbed and dispersed throughout the plant.

You can continue to feed Strawberry during the spring, but it is best not to fertilize in the autumn because this can cause too much foliage to develop late in the season. That makes the leaves susceptible to damage in winter.

When should I avoid fertilizing my Strawberry?

Avoid fertilizing Strawberry at all in the first year of growth, and be cautious about providing fertilizer if it is not necessary. You also should not fertilize if you pruned 20% of the plant or more the previous year. Hold off on fertilizing plants that are diseased or damaged, as this can do more harm than good. Remember that fertilizer is not medicine, and instead get to the root cause of the issue before you think about feeding the plant again.

Do not fertilize after the peak of summer, which can cause too much growth just before winter. Also, Strawberry should not be fertilized during hot and dry times of year, since dry soil does not deliver fertilizer as effectively as moist soil. Fertilizing at this time can also stimulate growth which in turn needs more water that may not be available. It is best to keep fertilizer for earlier in the season when temperatures are cooler.

Finally, remember that Strawberry can absorb fertilizer that has been applied to nearby plants or lawns, so be cautious about inadvertently giving plants a double-dose of fertilizer.

What type of fertilizer does my Strawberry need?

Usually the use of some fertilizer with balanced nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) can bring many benefits. The main nutrients that plants need are nitrogen for leaf growth and chlorophyll. Phosphorus supports the root system as well as to produce blossoms, fruits, and seeds. Potassium develops the systems used for photosynthesis and transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.You may choose to use a commercial fertilizer specialized for a certain type of tree, or you can use organic nitrogen sources such as manure, feather meal, or blood meal.

Conducting a soil test can help you get a good idea of the condition of your soil and apply fertilizer more precisely. For commercial fertilizers, you could use a balanced granular fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar if your soil does not have sufficient phosphorus and potassium according to your soil test. In most cases the nitrogen in the soil is continuously lost with rainfall. If your soil has sufficient levels of phosphorus and potassium, a high-nitrogen fertilizer with a ratio of 6-2-1 or 10-2-2 would be more suitable.

How do I fertilize my Strawberry?

Always follow directions for the specific type of fertilizer and do research on how to use it for the Strawberry you are growing. It is important not to over-fertilize your Strawberry, so determining the correct amount to use is crucial, especially for fruit trees. The usual rule of thumb is to use the age of the tree (if known) or the diameter of the trunk to understand how much fertilizer should be used. Estimate a one-tenth of a pound of fertilizer per year or per inch of trunk, with a maximum of one pound. Note that a Strawberry should not be fertilized for the first few years.

Granular fertilizers and organic fertilizers such as blood meal are applied by sprinkling the substance around the base of the tree all the way to the drip line (the space below the farthest-reaching branches) but do not let fertilizer come in contact with the trunk. Over time, the granules break down and filter into the soil to be absorbed into the roots. After fertilizing, spread an inch-deep layer of compost around the base of the tree and water thoroughly.

What happens if I fertilize my Strawberry too much?

It is far better to under-fertilize than over-fertilize, since you can always add more but you cannot easily take away excess fertilizer. Over-fertilizing your Strawberry may cause brown leaf tips and edges, yellowing, wilting leaves, and possibly a visible crust of fertilizer salts on the surface of the soil around the plant. This condition is called fertilizer burn and results from too many accumulated salts in the plant’s cells. If excess nitrogen is the issue, the Strawberry will produce a lot of leaves but won’t grow much fruit since nitrogen supports foliage growth.

If you have overfertilized, you could try removing the top layer of soil under the Strawberry to remove the most concentrated area of fertilizer. Then flush the area by watering heavily to try to get rid of fertilizer around the roots.

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Feng shui direction

Southwest

The strawberry harmonizes well in Southwest-facing areas, a direction traditionally linked to relationships and love in Feng Shui. It's thought that the strawberry's vibrant red berries can symbolically bolster the nurturing energies of this area, possibly enhancing emotional connections. The impact varies, though, as Feng Shui teachings are personal and subjective.

Water

Twice per week

Lighting

Full sun

In its natural growth scenario, strawberry seeks out the radiating warmth and illumination of the sun—day-long if possible—but copes positively with lesser sunlight. Too much shade can impede its vigor and lead to underwhelming fruit production. Varying amounts of sunlight might alter its growing stages.

Temperature

-25 35 ℃

The strawberry is native to regions with mild temperatures ranging from 5 to 32 ℃ (41 to 90 ℉). It prefers temperatures between 15 to 25 ℃ (59 to 77 ℉) during the growing season. In winter, the plant is dormant and can tolerate temperatures as low as -10 ℃ (14 ℉) with proper mulching and protection.

Transplant

1 foot

Transplanting strawberry thrives best in the delightful period between early to late spring. Choose a sunny, well-draining location to meet its condition requirements. A friendly reminder: be gentle while handling its delicate roots during transplant!

Roses, elms, figs, and allies

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Strawberry based on 10 million real cases

Brown spot

This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

Solutions: In minor cases of brown spot, there isn’t any need to treat the disease. However, if much of the foliage is affected and defoliation occurs, the plant will benefit from getting rid of the infection. It is recommended to start by applying organic treatment options, working up to the more potent synthetic, chemical fungicides if necessary. Organic options won’t kill the fungus, but will prevent it from spreading. Dissolve ½ teaspoon of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water. Using a spray bottle, spray on tops and bottoms of leaves until the mixture drips off. Repeat every two weeks until existing spots stop enlarging and new spots no longer appear. Spray a copper-based fungicidal soap on the leaves, coating the top and bottom leaf surfaces. Reapply as directed on the product label. Copper penetrates the leaf surface and prevents germination of spores so the fungus cannot spread. Apply an all-purpose fungicide to the entire plant, following the label instructions carefully.

Leaf beetles

Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.

Caterpillars

Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

Solutions: Even though caterpillars are diverse, they all chew on plant parts and can cause significant damage if present in large numbers. For severe cases: Apply insecticide. For an organic solution, spray plants with a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), which specifically affects the larval stage of moths and butterflies. Be sure to coat plants, since caterpillars need to ingest Bt for it to be effective. This will not harm other insects. Spray a chili extract. Chili seeds can be cooked in water to make a spicy spray that caterpillars don't like. Spray this mixture on the plants, but be aware it will also be spicy to humans. Introduce beneficial insects. Release beneficial insects to the garden that eat caterpillars, such as parasitic wasps. For less severe cases: Hand pick. Using gloves, pick off caterpillars on plants and dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water. Dust plants with diatomaceous earth. This powder is harmless to humans but irritates caterpillars. Therefore, it will make it difficult for caterpillars to move and eat.

Leaf rot

This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

Solutions: Bacterial infections need to be treated quickly to prevent the spread to neighboring, healthy plants, potentially wiping out large sections of your indoor or outdoor garden. In mild cases: Use sterilized (10% bleach solution) pruning shears or scissors to remove any infected plant parts, making sure to dispose of them off site. Use a copper-based bactericide to treat the unaffected foliage, as well as the soil, and neighboring plants. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label. In severe cases, where more than half the leaves are affected: Remove all of the infected plants from the garden, disposing of them off site. Treat the soil and neighboring plants using a copper-based bactericide. Follow the manufacturer’s rate and timing directions found on the product label.

Underwatering

Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.

Plant dried up

The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

Solutions: The solution for a dried out plant depends on the cause, so determine the cause before selecting a treatment method. Adjust your watering: Stick your finger in the soil near the roots. If it feels bone dry or overly saturated, you need to adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Prune back dead foliage: Snip off any brown stems and leaves on the plant to make space for new growth. This encourages the roots to send up fresh stems. Move to a proper environment. This may involve decreasing or increasing sun exposure, depending on the species. Decrease fertilizer applications. If you have applied too much fertilizer, you can repot plants with fresh potting soil. Wait. If your plant has dried out as daylight is decreasing, it is entering dormancy. Decrease watering and wait until the plant resumes growth.

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Distribution Map

Habitat

Garden

Native

Cultivated

Invasive

Potentially invasive

Exotic

No species reported

More Info

Plant Type

Herb

Flower Color

White

Pink

Red

Bloom Time

Spring, Early summer

Leaf Color

Green

Name story

Garden strawberry||Strawberry

The exact etymology of the Strawberry name is still unclear. According to some sources, the name is related to the fact that strawberries are often mulched with straw. According to others, the name is related to the corrupted word "strew", which refers to the plant's runners. However, strawberry is the most famous variety of strawberry, widely cultivated in gardens.

Symbolism

Love at first sight

Usages

Garden Use

Strawberry is mostly cultivated in kitchen gardens for the sweet flavorsome fruits it produces during the summer. Its rosette-like blooms in the spring can also add beauty to the garden. It can also be grown in containers or hanging baskets, attracting a variety of pollinators.

Scientific Classification

Phylum

Vascular plants

Class

Dicotyledons

Order

Family

Rose

Genus

Strawberries

Species

Strawberry

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Florida swamp-lily or Swamp Lily, is a white flower with delicately long purple stamens. It grows well in wet, swampy areas or in garden water features. It is easy to grow and has a sweet fragrance.

Saucer magnolia (*Magnolia soulangeana*) is a hybrid saucer magnolia tree native to Europe. It is mainly found in the British Isles and the United States and is known for its easy cultivation. The cultivar 'Brozzonii' has received the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

Summer, autumn

Saucer magnolia

Spring

Saucer magnolia are members of the Magnolia genus, which has a fascinating and ancient history. Magnolia flowers are slender and cuplike in their appearance, and always grow at the very tip of branches. Displaying a range of colors from white to yellow and all shades of pink and purple, each flower features 6-12 petals. As one of the earliest garden bloomers, often at the very beginning of the growing year, Magnolia flowers are a vital source of pollen for early-rising invertebrates, particularly beetles. Their branches also provide a safe haven for garden birds., Suited to both small and large spaces, saucer magnolia add variety to the garden and take center stage during early spring, when there is often little color elsewhere. For anyone considering adding saucer magnolia to their garden, other spring-blooming plants make for the perfect companions. These include Daffodils, Hyacinth, and Crocus, as well as other shrubs such as Camellias.

Pineapple sage

Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans) grows in naturalized clumps at woodland peripheries, including at high elevations. Its red flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. The flowers of pineapple sage are edible, but appear very similar to those of Salvia coccinea, which are poisonous. It is safer to only use the flowers as potpourri rather than eating them.

Summer, autumn

Sages belong to the genus Salvia. Most Salvia species require very little maintenance. These hardy, drought-resistant species are a particularly good choice for gardeners who prefer plants that require little care. They are particularly well-suited to coastal gardens, a sunny aspect, or gardens with poor soil.

Persian shield

Persian shield (Strobilanthes auriculata var. dyeriana) is a striking plant native to Myanmar. It functions as an evergreen anywhere that doesn't freeze in the winter. The unusual iridescent purple of the leaves and its willingness to accept partial shade make this a popular houseplant.

Pallas (Rhodiola quadrifida) is a flowering herbaceous species occurring naturally in mountainous regions of China, Russia, and Pakistan. The species is valued in China and has been documented for over 1,000 years. In Russia, a bouquet of pallas used to be given to newlyweds to ensure good health and prosperity. It is a relative of the sedum and jade plants.

Autumn

Pallas

Late spring, Early summer

Succulent plants are so popular with people for its low maintenance cost and different but interesting shape. They can be planted in window sills as potted plant or placed on office table as house plant to decorate the environment. They can also be planted in drainable and ventilated corners of courtyard as undershrub to form a unique tropical landscape. They don't need much care, therefore being a perfect choice for busy people.

Nigella

This is an annual herbaceous plant (see ephemeral). The field black cumin forms an upright, up to about 10 to 30 cm high and branched stalk. The leaves are pinnate, with less than 1 mm wide, pointed tips.

Spring

The nigella is a great sight in any garden bed, standing out from broad-leaf plants with its airy foliage. This plant doesn't require much maintenance and is fairly resistant to most problematic pests and diseases, unless weakened by bad weather or lack of food. This is a very interesting-looking plant that can reach up to 61 cm in height, with thin, ferny, fennel-like foliage, and flowers that bloom in different shades of white, blue, pink, and purple. If growing indoors, be sure to choose a bright spot in your house, preferably a sunny windowsill.

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Most Common Herb

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Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.

Most Common Herb

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Add to My Garden

Strawberry

Fragaria ananassa

Water

Twice per week

Sunlight

Full sun

Care Guide for Strawberry

Water

Fertilization

Pruning

Soil

Loam, Sandy loam, Clay, Slightly acidic

Potting Suggestions

Needs excellent drainage in pots.

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Questions About Strawberry

Watering

Pruning

Sunlight

Temperature

Fertilizing

What is the best way to water my Strawberry?

What should I do if I water my Strawberry too much or too little?

How often should I water my Strawberry?

How much water does my Strawberry need?

How can I tell if i'm watering my Strawberry enough?

How should I water my Strawberry through the seasons?

What's the difference between watering Strawberry indoors and outdoors?

Does my Strawberry need to be pruned?

When is the best time to prune my Strawberry?

What should I do after pruning my Strawberry?

How can I prune my Strawberry during different growth stages?

How can I prune my Strawberry during different seasons?

What are other tips and tricks for pruning my Strawberry?

Are there any instructions for pruning my Strawberry?

Are there any other tips and tricks for pruning my Strawberry?

What type of sunlight does Strawberry need?

Can sunlight damage Strawberry? How to protect Strawberry from the sun and heat damage?

Should I protect Strawberry from sun exposure?

What will happen if Strawberry gets inadequate sunlight?

Does Strawberry need special care about sunlight during its different growth stages?

How much light does Strawberry need for photosynthesis?

How much light should Strawberry get per day to grow healthily?

What is the optimal temperature for Strawberry?

Temperature requirements for first year or seedling Strawberry

How can I protect Strawberry from extreme temperatures?

Dormant season temperature recommendations for Strawberry

Why do I need to fertilize my Strawberry?

When is the best time to fertilize my Strawberry?

When should I avoid fertilizing my Strawberry?

What type of fertilizer does my Strawberry need?

How do I fertilize my Strawberry?

What happens if I fertilize my Strawberry too much?

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More About How-Tos

Common Pests & Diseases

Common issues for Strawberry based on 10 million real cases

Brown spot

This infection can cause brown spots or patches to appear on the plant.

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Leaf beetles

Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.

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Caterpillars

Caterpillars are fleshy moth or butterfly larvae that come in an array of colors, patterns, and even hairstyles. They chew on leaves and flower petals, creating large, irregular holes.

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Leaf rot

This pathogen can cause the leaves to rot.

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Underwatering

Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.

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Plant dried up

The entire plant may dry out due to dieback or normal seasonal dormancy.

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Treat and prevent plant diseases.

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Distribution Map

Habitat

Garden

Map

Native

Cultivated

Invasive

Potentially invasive

Exotic

No species reported

More Info

Plant Type

Herb

Flower Color

White

Pink

Red

Bloom Time

Spring, Early summer

Leaf Color

Green

Name story

Garden strawberry||Strawberry

Symbolism

Love at first sight

Usages

Garden Use

Scientific Classification

Phylum

Vascular plants

Class

Dicotyledons

Order

Roses, elms, figs, and allies

Family

Rose

Genus

Strawberries

Species

Strawberry

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Related Plants

Strobilanthes auriculata var. dyeriana

# Useful Tips