Both overwatering and underwatering can occur for your Scarlet-star, but overwatering is a more common issue. In fact, some of the Scarlet-star may show a slight ability to survive short-lived droughts despite preferring consistently moist soil conditions. On the off chance that you manage to underwater your Scarlet-star, you'll see that the leaves begin to turn brown and brittle at the tips and may begin to curl as well. For in-ground plants, this issue is most common when you rely on rainfall for watering, but the rainfall volume has proven to be insufficient. Underwatering is a bit more common for container-grown plants, as the soil in containers often dries out more quickly and may not have access to natural rainfall. In either case, you can resolve underwatering issues by supplying more water. If you have an issue with overwatering, you may notice that your Scarlet-star has begun to wilt. The leaves of the plant may begin to turn yellow, and you may notice rot in the leaves and stem. Additionally, overwatering can damage fruits and lead to accumulations of mold and fungus. Overwatering can occur for in-ground plants when you water even when there has been sufficient rainfall. In container gardening situations, overwatering often results from the use of heavy soils from containers that lack proper drainage holes. If you have an overwatered container-grown Scarlet-star, it's often best to remove it from its container, clean and trim its roots, and place it in a new container that holds looser soils and has better drainage. You should also plant to reduce your watering schedule if your plant is overwatered, whether it lives in the ground or in a pot.

During the growing season, you should water your Scarlet-star often enough to maintain consistent soil moisture without causing the soil to become waterlogged. If you grow your Scarlet-star in a container, this usually amounts to about one inch of water applied once per week. By contrast, if you plant your Scarlet-star in the ground, the plant may not need supplemental watering if it has rained about one inch during the week. As such, you may be able to go long periods without watering an in-ground Scarlet-star, assuming there has been consistent rainfall. Your watering frequency will need to change depending on the season. For instance, the Scarlet-star will need less water during winter than they do during spring, summer, and fall. Your Scarlet-star may also need more water depending on its growth phase, with the flowering a fruiting phase often calling for more water than usual.

It is possible to grow your Scarlet-star indoors in a large container. In fact, indoor growing is a necessity, at least for part of the year, if you live in a region with cold winters, as the Scarlet-star will not survive freezing temperatures. When growing the Scarlet-star indoors, you should note that it does not have access to rainwater, which can supply enough moisture for plants that grow outdoors. That means that you'll need to supply all the water that your indoor Scarlet-star receives. Indoor growing locations are often dryer overall as well, often due to the presence of air conditioners and other appliances. That factor, along with the lack of rainfall in an indoor setting, often means that you'll need to water your Scarlet-star more frequently than you would if it grew outdoors. You should also consider misting an indoor Scarlet-star in addition to pouring water on its leaves as you would when watering this plant, regardless of its location. Misting helps create a humid environment where this plant thrives.

Each of these plants will need to survive several seasonal changes, each of which can call for different watering styles. During the spring is when you should begin watering your Scarlet-star at the standard rate of about one inch of water per week. In summer, when the weather is hottest, you may get by with the same watering frequency. However, the heat may cause your plant's soil to dry out more quickly than normal, which may result in it needing water multiple times per week to maintain consistent moisture. During fall, you can continue the same watering rate you used during the spring. In winter, you can usually water your plant a bit less, but you should not cease watering altogether. Your winter watering goal should be to maintain a slight degree of moisture and not allow more than the first few centimeters of soil to become dry. You may also need to water your Scarlet-star a bit differently based on its growth stage. Mainly, when this plant is in a flowering or fruiting stage, it will likely require more water than usual. As is always the case, you can rely on soil observations to determine how much you need to increase your watering rate during those phases with the goal of maintaining consistent soil moisture without creating soggy soil conditions.

The usual goal for the Scarlet-star is to have it grow as big and full as possible. While the plant doesn’t require consistent trimming, it can benefit by removing old flowers and any damaged, dead, or diseased leaves. You can also trim back the leaves if it is starting to get too big for the pot and space you are keeping it.

Scarlet-star don’t have a winter dormancy cycle at the suitable temperature. With that said, their growth does slow down as the days get shorter, however the leaves don’t die. What does that mean for pruning? It means there’s no specific season where it’s better to prune. Ideally, you will want to wait until the flower blooms before pruning it, which can take about a month after the appearance of the blossom. With deadheading, you’ll want to do this around late spring or when only a few of the blossoms have faded. You should always prune brown or yellow leaves when you notice them. Throughout the growing phase, make sure to pay close attention to any potential diseased leaves and remove these as necessary.

Once you’ve pruned your plant, you should dispose of the stems and leaves either by composting the healthy ones or throwing out the diseased parts. You can also fertilize just before or after pruning, which gives Scarlet-star a little vitamin boost that can provide it the nutrients needed to better protect itself from any nearby pathogens or diseases. You don’t need much after care when you’re done pruning. It might benefit from light watering and some liquid plant food to encourage new blooms and growth.

Chances are you’re not getting the Scarlet-star from seed, which means you’re already getting a mature plant. Since the plant doesn’t have a true dormancy cycle, there are really only two phases: blooming and non-blooming. While the plant is blooming, you should only remove yellow or dead leaves and cut off any brown tips on the leaves. Avoid doing too much pruning during this time as it can stress the plant. Still, you should remove any diseased or dead leaves to keep your plant presentable. The best time to prune is after the blossoms have already wilted. You can remove both the spent blossoms and any old and yellowed leaves at the same time. If you’re noticing a large amount of yellow leaves, you might be overwatering your plant or not giving it enough nutrients. While yellow or brown leaves don’t always mean there’s an issue, if you notice a large amount of leaves shifting colors, it usually means there’s a problem with the plant.

As an evergreen plant, Scarlet-star doesn’t have the same cycles as those found in colder areas. The leaves will remain green throughout the year, which is one of the many reasons it is a popular houseplant. If you want to deadhead, you should do so after the blossoms have already wilted. Throughout the growing phase, make sure to pay close attention to any potential diseased leaves and remove these as necessary.

How you prune the Scarlet-star will depend on whether you’re performing general care or deadheading. For general care, simply cut off the blossoms that have already died. Make sure to get as close to the base as possible and snip at a 45-degree angle. Repeat this for all stalks with wilting blooms. After that, trim back any outer leaves that are old and yellowing. If you simply want to thin the plant out, start with the outermost leaf and work your way in. Avoid removing more than 30 percent of the leaves at once. Throughout the growing phase, make sure to pay close attention to any potential diseased leaves and remove these as necessary.

As jungle plants, Epiphytic Bromeliads grow in a variety of locations in the rainforest. Some of them are found closer to the forest floor, receiving only dappled sunlight that finds its way through tall canopies. Others grow as epiphytes higher up on the trees and are exposed to direct sunlight. That is why it is essential to know what type of plant you’re getting. As a general rule, epiphytic bromeliads naturally exposed to more sun have thicker, stiffer leaves, while species naturally growing in the shade have more tender, thinner leaves. However, as stressed before, always check the individual species’ needs. The safest bet for Scarlet-star is to be exposed to bright but mostly indirect light - e.g., from an east-facing window. Also, it is safe to assume that Scarlet-star will get sunburned if exposed to direct sunlight during prolonged periods, so avoid this with all family members.

The consequences of inadequate lighting for Scarlet-star can go in two directions. If Scarlet-star receives too much direct sunlight and belongs to species adapted to shady conditions, the leaves may start looking bleached-out and paler than usual at first. Eventually, leaf scorching is almost certain to occur. On the other hand, if Scarlet-star receives too little sunlight, the foliage will lose its color and turn darker. That is especially true for variegated plants that may lose all their additional colors and turn solid green. Also, as a general consequence, Scarlet-star that fails to receive enough sunlight according to their species’ needs will grow poorly.

Tropical conditions of Scarlet-star’s original homes are quite stable throughout the plant’s lifetime, and the light doesn’t have to vary between seasons. However, increasing the light exposure can trigger the plant to bloom - a highly desired event. Still, it’s not just about the light levels - all other conditions, such as temperature and humidity, should be met for this to happen.

If you have just bought your Scarlet-star from a non-specialized store, they have likely been exposed to low light conditions for some time. Even if the particular species belongs to the sun-loving Scarlet-star subtype, you need to gradually introduce it to brighter, natural sunlight conditions. That practice is called hardening. Start by exposing your plant to indirect window light, pulling it closer to the light source each day. After several days, the plant can receive its first direct morning light, but only for a very short time.

The absolutely ideal conditions for Scarlet-star - both temperature and light-wise - is a greenhouse setup with temperatures averaging between 70 and 80 °F (21 and 27 °C), with bright indirect light, good air circulation, and high humidity. However, the popular Scarlet-star species are not overly sensitive and are easily grown in average home conditions. As a simple rule - if you feel pleasant in your room temperatures, these are likely adequate for your Scarlet-star as well.

East or west-facing window light is ideal for most Scarlet-star. However, if the west-facing window is in question, the direct afternoon light may be too harsh for some species, so ensure greater distance from the window or another type of shading during the critical part of the day. If a south-facing window is your only option, keeping Scarlet-star next to it can be possible if you create some distance between the light source and the plant, plus filter the light through a suitable curtain. Again, the ideal position will largely depend on the species in question, and you need to factor in other requirements, such as humidity, into the equation. For example, bathrooms are ideal for Scarlet-star regarding humidity but may not secure enough light for many species unless you have a window in there. However, some species may thrive under low-light bathroom conditions with some natural light available and some supplemented by artificial fluorescent light. Other positions, such as kitchen windows, may provide ideal light but may be too dry. In that case, try increasing the humidity around the plant by creating a humidity tray under the pot or adding a humidifier. Also, Scarlet-star will thrive outdoors in tropical climates and can be brought out during the summer in warm temperate climates. In outdoor conditions, they perform well under trees with broad and semi-thick canopies that create dappled light conditions. Also, shaded patios and bright porches are also great options.

Scarlet-star tends to prefer the same general temperature ranges. While they can tolerate temperatures as low as 50℉(15℃), this plant likes higher temperatures that more closely resemble those of tropical and subtropical regions. Being an epiphytic plant, meaning that most of the water of Scarlet-star comes from air humidity and not groundwater, higher temperatures are better. The humidity that Scarlet-star prefers is best obtained with temperatures over 75℉(25℃). Since humidity is created when water is vaporized into warm air, maintaining humidity is easiest with warmer temperatures. Before you blast your air conditioner in the warm months, make sure these plants are out of the way of the coolest drafts! Anywhere from 75~90℉(25~32℃) is perfect, but cooler temperatures down to 50℉(15℃) are acceptable.

Scarlet-star doesn’t need a period of dormancy, or a cold period, to effectively bloom and reproduce. This means that ideal temperatures should be maintained year-round. However, if your Scarlet-star does experience temperatures cooler than 50℉(15℃) or hotter than 95℉(35℃) , it may cause some damage. The extent of the damage is specific to how long it was exposed to extreme cold or heat, its genotype, and what stage the plant is in. Cold temperatures below 50℉(15℃) will cause frostbite on the leaves of a Scarlet-star. This normally appears as black spots or entirely blackened leaves, but this process can take a few days to become apparent. At first, the leaves will look droopy, then slowly become discolored. It’s difficult to save the Scarlet-star from this fate, but sometimes they can grow back over the course of several months. If the Scarlet-star is exposed to very high temperatures, it will simply wilt. If the leaves become too dry, they may not revive; however, if the exposure wasn’t very long, then the heat spike may have no lasting effect. Scarlet-star can tolerate heat much better than cold.

You can easily keep the Scarlet-star warm without the use of a heating pad or nearby heater (though if you’re using one anyway, it doesn’t hurt to share!). To maintain optimal temperatures, consider planting Scarlet-star in a terrarium. By enclosing the space around the plant, you create a sort of micro-environment with higher humidity and temperature than outside the glass, which in itself holds heat for some time. If you live in a warm region where it may be too dry to place Scarlet-star outside, you can always place it near a warm window or an exterior wall that warms up during the day under full sun exposure; just be sure not to provide too much sunlight as a consequence of moving the plant too close to a bright window. Sheer curtains can remedy this issue. On the other hand, if you live in a tropical or subtropical climate where outside temperatures stay between 55-90℉(13-32℃) day to night, you can grow Scarlet-star outside year-long. If the temperature drops below this range, simply bring them indoors for the night or cover them with a thin cloth to prevent cold damage.

Sometimes, temperature fluctuations can sneak up in ways you might not expect. One of the most common temperature breaches for Scarlet-star is from windows. If you grow your Scarlet-star in a window, be aware of how outside temperatures can affect the temperature of the window and how much of that cold or hot air reaches your plant. Another common household temperature breach is air conditioning and heaters. We might not realize it since we don’t hover over these things in our homes, but a direct draft from air conditioners can chill Scarlet-star to well below its preferred temperature range. Similarly, heaters can effectively dry out it very quickly, which causes the leaves to harden and eventually wither away.

Fertilizer, and soil nutrients in general, are an essential form of fuel that your Scarlet-star will use to maintain healthy growth. In general, plants use the nutrients they find in the soil to develop new plant material and keep their existing components in good condition. For the Scarlet-star specifically, fertilization is necessary to help this plant display the best version of its flowers. Since the flowers are the main form of attraction to this plant, most gardeners will want to do all they can to ensure the flowers appear in their best form. Fertilization is one of the most reliable ways to help your Scarlet-star produce the best possible blooms.

The Scarlet-star goes through two main phases throughout each year. The first phase is the dormant phase, in which this plant will put forth minimal new growth. This dormant phase takes place during the winter. The other phase is the active growth phase, which takes place during spring and fall, which is when your Scarlet-star will need fertilization the most. Generally, it is best to fertilize your Scarlet-star starting in the spring months. You should repeat the feeding about once per month throughout the rest of the spring and through most of the summer. As fall approaches, you can begin to reduce your fertilization rate.

You want to support Scarlet-star growth, but you also don’t want to cause root burn. Your plant is actively growing in the spring and summer, it’s when the extra nutrients are necessary. In the fall and winter, your plant will enter its dormancy stage. It’s when you want to stop fertilizing.

The ideal fertilizer for a Scarlet-star is one that has a relatively balanced mix of the three main plant nutrients, with slightly higher amounts of phosphorus. Alternatively, some gardeners choose to improve their Scarlet-star 's soil by adding organic materials such as compost, worm castings, and manure. Fertilizers can come in many forms, and most of these forms will work well for your Scarlet-star. However, some of the best fertilizers for Scarlet-star come in either a liquid or a powdered form. Regardless of which you use, you should ensure that you dilute your fertilizer and apply it while watering your Scarlet-star.

Once you have found a suitable fertilizer and learned the ideal fertilization schedule for your Scarlet-star, you are ready to learn how to apply your fertilizer. When feeding your Scarlet-star, the most reliable method is to mix your liquid fertilizer with water before applying it to the soil. Each fertilizer may have different directions on how to feed your plants. Usually, it is best to follow the manufacturer's guidance on how to use the fertilizer they produce. These instructions should include information on how to properly dilute the fertilizer to prevent overfertilization. Mixing your fertilizer in water is an easy process, and once it is complete, all you need to do is pour the mixture into the soil where your Scarlet-star lives.

Overfertilization is something that you should consider when caring for any plant, but it is especially important when growing a Scarlet-star. A Scarlet-star, when overfertilized, will show clear signs of distress, which, at times, may be so serious that they lead to the death of your plant. Overfertilized Scarlet-star will likely show leaf discoloration as well, including browning. In the worst-case scenarios, excessive fertilization will draw moisture out of your plant's roots, which can cause it to decline quickly.