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Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Hippophae rhamnoides
Also known as : Seaberry
Hippophae rhamnoides, commonly known as sea-buckthorn, is native to cold-temperate areas in Asia and Europe. The plant has a wide range of commercial uses including in the food and cosmetic industries. It is also used for ecological purposes and as animal fodder.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
3 to 7
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care guide

Care Guide for Sea-buckthorn

Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs,watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once in spring.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the dead, diseased, overgrown branches in winter.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Chalky, Neutral, Alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
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Sea-buckthorn
Water
Water
Every 2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
3 to 7
question

Questions About Sea-buckthorn

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What's the best method to water my Sea-buckthorn?
You might want to put a garden hose at the plant base to ensure that you're promoting excellent root development. Avoid directly spraying the leaves, and know that the leaves will require more watering if they are outdoors and facing direct sunlight. You can also use bubblers that you can put on to each plant to moisten the roots. Also, use soaker hoses that can cover the entire garden or bed when adding or removing plants to push the roots deeply. Drain any excess water and wait for the soil to dry before watering. Water at ground level to prevent diseases. On a sunny day, you might want to spray the entire bush with water. Whether potted or in-ground, please remember Sea-buckthorn prefers deep watering over light sprinkling.
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What should I do if I water Sea-buckthorn too much/too little?
An overwatered Sea-buckthorn can start to have leaves that turn yellow, drop off and wilt. The plant can also look dull and unhealthy, with signs of mushy stems. When they are beginning to show these signs, it's best to adjust your schedule whenever possible.
The wilting can also be a sign of under watering as well. You might see that the leaves begin to turn crispy and dry while the overwatered ones will have soft wilted leaves. Check the soil when it is dry and watering is not enough, give it a full watering in time. Enough water will make the Sea-buckthorn recover again, but the plant will still appear dry and yellow leaves after a few days due to the damaged root system. Once it return to normal, the leave yellowing will stop .
Always check the moisture levels at the pot when you have the Sea-buckthorn indoors. Avoid overwatering indoors and see if there are signs of black spots. If these are present, let the soil dry in the pot by giving it a few days of rest from watering.
Overwatering can lead to root rot being present in your plant. If this is the case, you might want to transfer them into a different pot, especially if you see discolored and slimy roots. Always prevent root rot as much as possible, and don't let the soil become too soggy.
You should dig a little deeper when you plant your Sea-buckthorn outdoors. When you check with your fingers and notice that the soil is too dry, it could mean underwatering. Adequate watering is required to help the plant recover.
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How often should I water my Sea-buckthorn?
The Sea-buckthorn likes deep and infrequent watering. You would want to soak them in a gallon of water each time, especially when they are planted in pots. The water storage of flower pots is limited and the soil will dry out faster. Watering is required every 3 to 5 days when living in a cold region. Water it early in the morning when the soil is dry, outdoors or indoors. You can also determine if watering is needed by checking the soil inside. When the top 2-3 inches of soil is dry, it is time to give the plant a full watering. During hot days, you may need to check the moisture daily, as the heat can quickly dry out the soil in the pot.
Irrigation of the soil is also required if you have a garden. When you live in a hot climate, you might want to water once a week. Only water when you notice that about 2 to 3 inches of soil become too dry outdoors or indoors. Consider the amount of rainwater on the plant and ensure not to add to it to prevent root rot.You may not need additional watering of the plants if there is a lot of rainfall.Sea-buckthorn generally grows during spring and fall. When they are outdoors, you need to add mulch about 3 to 4 inches deep to conserve more water.
You need to water the plants more frequently in sandy soil because this type tends to drain faster. However, with the clay one, you need to water this less frequently where you could go for 2-3 days to dry the plant and not develop any root rot. You could mark the date on the calendar whenever you water and when you notice that the leaves are starting to droop. This can mean that you might be a day late.
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How much water do I need to give my Sea-buckthorn?
The Sea-buckthorn generally needs about a gallon of water each schedule,With the potted plants, you might want to water them deeply until you see that the water is dripping at the bottom of the pot. Then, wait for the soil to dry before watering them again. You can use a water calculator or a moisture meter to determine the amount you've given to your plant in a week. Provide plenty of water, especially in the flowering period, but let the moisture evaporate afterwards to prevent root rot.
If Sea-buckthorn is planted outdoor with adequate rainfall, it may not need additional watering. When Sea-buckthorn is young or newly planted, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As Sea-buckthorn continues to grow, it can survive entirely on rainfall. Only when the weather is too hot, or when there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving Sea-buckthorn a full watering during the cooler moment of the day to prevent the plant from suffering from high heat damage. Additional watering will be required during persistent dry spells.
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Should I adjust the watering frequency for my Sea-buckthorn according to different seasons or climates?
The Sea-buckthorn needs outdoors come from rain, with only persistent dry weather requiring watering. Throughout the spring and fall growing seasons, the soil needs to be kept moist but not soggy, and alternating dry and moist soil conditions will allow the Sea-buckthorn to grow well. Throughout the summer, hot weather can cause water to evaporate too quickly, and if there is a lack of rainfall, you will need to water more frequently and extra to keep it moist.
Usually, the Sea-buckthorn will need less water during the winter. Since the Sea-buckthorn will drop their leaves and go dormant, you can put them into a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mixture like the terracotta to help the water evaporate quicker. Once your Sea-buckthorn growing outdoors begins to leaf out and go dormant, you can skip watering altogether and in most cases Sea-buckthorn can rely on the fall and winter rains to survive the entire dormant period.
After the spring, you can cultivate your Sea-buckthorn and encourage it to grow and bloom when the temperature becomes warmer.This plant is not generally a fan of ponding or drought when flowering. You must ensure that the drainage is good at all times, especially during the winter.
When the plant is in a pot, the plant has limited root growth. Keep them well-watered, especially if they are planted in pots during summer. They don't like cold and wet roots, so provide adequate drainage, especially if they are still growing.
It's always best to water your Sea-buckthorn’s diligently. Get the entire root system into a deep soak at least once or twice a week, depending on the weather. It's best to avoid shallow sprinkles that reach the leaves since they generally encourage the growth of fungi and don't reach deep into the roots. Don't allow the Sea-buckthorn’s to dry out completely in the fall or winter, even if they are already dormancy.
Don't drown the plants because they generally don't like sitting in water for too long. They can die during winter if the soil does not drain well. Also, apply mulch whenever possible to reduce stress, conserve water, and encourage healthy blooms.
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What should I be careful with when I water my Sea-buckthorn in different seasons, climates, or during different growing periods?
If planting in the ground, Sea-buckthorn mostly relies on rain. However, if there is no rainfall for 2-3 weeks, you may need to give proper consideration to giving the plants a deep watering. If watering Sea-buckthorn in summer, you should try to do it in the morning. A large temperature difference between the water temperature and the root system can stress the roots. You need to avoid watering the bushes when it's too hot outside. Start mulching them during the spring when the ground is not too cold.
The age of the plants matter. Lack of water is one of the most common reasons the newly planted ones fail to grow. After they are established, you need to ease off the watering schedule.
Reduce watering them during the fall and winter, especially if they have a water-retaining material in the soil. The dry winds in winter can dry them out, and the newly planted ones can be at risk of drought during windy winter, summer, and fall. Windy seasons mean that there's more watering required. The ones planted in the pot tend to dry out faster, so they need more watering. Once you see that they bloom less, the leaves begin to dry up.
Potted plants are relatively complex to water and fluctuate in frequency. Always be careful that the pot-planted plant don't sit in the water. Avoid putting them in containers with saucers, bowls, and trays. Too much watering in the fall can make the foliage look mottled or yellowish. It's always a good idea to prevent overwatering them regardless of the current climate or season that you might have. During the months when Sea-buckthorn begins to flower, you might want to increase the watering frequency but give it a rest once they are fully grown.
Give them an adequate amount of water once every 3 to 5 days but don't give them regular schedules. Make sure the soil is dry by sticking your finger in the pot, or use a moisture meter if you're unsure if it's the right time. Too much root rot can cause them to die, so be careful not to overwater or underwater regardless of the climate or season you have in your area.
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Why is watering my Sea-buckthorn important?
Watering the Sea-buckthorn helps transport the needed nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant. The moisture will keep this species healthy if you know how much water to give. The watering requirements will depend on the weather in your area and the plant's soil.
The Sea-buckthorn thrives on moist soil, but they can't generally tolerate waterlogging. Ensure to provide enough mulch when planted on the ground and never fall into the trap of watering too little. They enjoy a full can of watering where the water should be moist at the base when they are planted in a pot to get the best blooms.
If they are grown as foliage, you need to water them up to a depth of 10 to 20 inches so they will continue to grow. If it's raining, refrain from watering and let them get the nutrients they need from the rainwater.
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Key Facts About Sea-buckthorn

Attributes of Sea-buckthorn

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall, Winter
Plant Height
2.5 m to 3.5 m
Spread
7 m
Leaf Color
Silver
Green
Gray
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Fruit Color
Orange
Stem Color
Gray
Silver
Yellow
Orange
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
0 - 32 ℃

Usages

Garden Use
Sea-buckthorn grows well in sandy dunes and often appears in coastal or seaside gardens. This plant has many uses in these locations, including as windbreaks or borders along the top of dunes. It's not only functional but also showy, with vibrant blooms and masses of ornamental berries in the spring and summer.

Scientific Classification of Sea-buckthorn

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Common Pests & Diseases About Sea-buckthorn

Common issues for Sea-buckthorn based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Leaf mites
Leaf mites Leaf mites
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Dieback
Dieback Dieback
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Leaf mites
plant poor
Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
  • Physically remove mites from plants
  • Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
  • Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
  • Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
  • Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
  • Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Dieback
plant poor
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
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weed

Weed Control About Sea-buckthorn

Weeds
Sea-buckthorn has highly nutritious fruits and can improve nitrogen levels of the soil organically. However, it is also listed as an invasive species due to its tendency to form dense, monocultural stands.
How to Control it
As sea-buckthorn matures, its roots become more resilient, so it's best to remove it early. It's easiest to spot and remove it in early fall and spring. Smaller plants and seedlings can be removed by hand-pulling. With large scale infestations, it is advised to remove the fruit-bearing trees first in order to stop their reproduction. Remove the remaining sea-buckthorn plants in sections until all plants are uprooted. You can also spray the seedlings or cut stumps with herbicides to prevent growth. Check your property annually for more sea-buckthorn plants and remove them. If you opt for herbicide use, consult an agricultural expert to find the best active substance and application method for your geographic area. Spray on a windless day to avoid drift.
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distribution

Distribution of Sea-buckthorn

Habitat of Sea-buckthorn

Near the coast, fixed dunes, sea cliffs
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Sea-buckthorn

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Sea-buckthorn Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
From its origin in habitats exposed to ample sunshine, sea-buckthorn appreciates being bathed in abundant natural light. This plant can withstand a modest reduction in light exposure but remains healthiest in conditions where the sun is unimpeded. Both excessive shade or intense light can affect its growth, giving preference to a balanced exposure.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
-30 - 35 ℃
Sea-buckthorn is native to cold and temperate climates, thriving in temperatures of 32 to 90°F (0 to 32℃). Adjusting to fluctuating seasonal temperatures is vital for growth and survival. In colder seasons, consider providing a protective cover against freezing temperatures.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-12 feet
For sea-buckthorn, the prime time to transplant is in late frost (S2) to early spring (S4). This maximizes root development before summer heat. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. When transplanting, always handle with care to keep the rootball intact.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
North
The sea-buckthorn signifies determination and vitality in Feng Shui, appreciation for its ability to thrive even in harsh conditions. It's ideally suited for a North facing direction, connected with the water element. The sea-buckthorn's resilient nature might provide a protective energy against the coldness associated with water, eliciting a certain harmony, though one must remember that each placement can invoke unique responses based on personal and environmental nuances.
Fengshui Details
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Corn plant
Corn plant
Corn plant (Dracaena fragrans) is an evergreen, slow-growing perennial shrub native to tropical Africa. Also, it is a classic houseplant, grown in Europe since the 1800s. Its glossy green foliage that resembles corn leaves grow on top of a thick cane, which is why the plant is sometimes called “false palm tree.”
Peace lily
Peace lily
The peace lily gets its scientific name Spathiphyllum wallisii from a combination of the two Greek words ‘spath’ and ‘phyl’, which means spoon and leaves, respectively. The large graceful white spathe of the peace lily resembles a white flag, which is an international symbol of truce or peace.
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Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Sea-buckthorn
Hippophae rhamnoides
Also known as: Seaberry
Hippophae rhamnoides, commonly known as sea-buckthorn, is native to cold-temperate areas in Asia and Europe. The plant has a wide range of commercial uses including in the food and cosmetic industries. It is also used for ecological purposes and as animal fodder.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
3 to 7
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Questions About Sea-buckthorn

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
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Key Facts About Sea-buckthorn

Attributes of Sea-buckthorn

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Early summer
Harvest Time
Summer, Fall, Winter
Plant Height
2.5 m to 3.5 m
Spread
7 m
Leaf Color
Silver
Green
Gray
Flower Color
Yellow
Green
Fruit Color
Orange
Stem Color
Gray
Silver
Yellow
Orange
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
0 - 32 ℃
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Usages

Garden Use
Sea-buckthorn grows well in sandy dunes and often appears in coastal or seaside gardens. This plant has many uses in these locations, including as windbreaks or borders along the top of dunes. It's not only functional but also showy, with vibrant blooms and masses of ornamental berries in the spring and summer.

Scientific Classification of Sea-buckthorn

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Sea-buckthorn

Common issues for Sea-buckthorn based on 10 million real cases
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Learn More About the Aged yellow and dry more
Leaf mites
Leaf mites Leaf mites Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Solutions: Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants: Physically remove mites from plants Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests) Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Learn More About the Leaf mites more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Dieback
Dieback Dieback Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Solutions: There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent: Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling Test soil pH and adjust accordingly Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Learn More About the Dieback more
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Leaf mites
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Leaf mites
Leaf mites are very small - rarely larger than 4 mm - and are hard to spot. They are usually yellow or red and feed on the plant's sap.
Overview
Overview
Leaf mites are frustrating pests that can be found on both indoor- and outdoor-grown plants. They affect all kinds of plants, from shrubs to vegetable crops and everything in between. These tiny pests feed on sap through leaves or needles, causing symptoms that are easy to confuse with drought stress. Severely infested plants can die.
These pests are closely related to spiders but don’t offer all the pest-controlling benefits of their close arachnid cousins. They are extremely small, generally about 0.5 mm in length and yellow to orange in color. When infestations are left unchecked, they can severely stunt the growth of plants or even kill them completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Leaf mites use piercing and sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap that is present on the underside of needles and leaves. This can cause small white or yellow spots to develop on the plant tissue, until the entire leaf starts to appear bleached or bronzed. This feeding activity can lead new flowers and leaves to develop in stunted or distorted shapes.
While individual mites may be too small to notice easily, they create a webbing that may be the most apparent and characteristic sign of infestation with leaf mites. This webbing affixes the eggs of the next generation to the leaf.
Eggs can survive through winter conditions, although they do not hatch until the weather is hot and dry. Warmer temperatures increase their rate of development, and in summer weather or warm indoor temperatures colonies of leaf mites can reproduce every 1 to 2 weeks.
Leaves may fall from severely infested plants, and without treatment they can become stunted or even die.
Solutions
Solutions
Steps to take to remove leaf mites from plants:
  • Physically remove mites from plants
  • Rinse the leaves of houseplants - spray with a hose or wipe with a moist, soapy cloth
  • Apply neem oil or horticultural oil spray - both of these are easy to use and work quickly on mites indoors and in the garden
  • Use a miticide - a broad spray of miticide can eliminate large populations of leaf mites in the garden (however, this risks also risk killing beneficial mites that eat harmful pests)
  • Use natural enemies like lady beetles and predatory mites to control populations
  • Long-lasting pesticides like permethrin and bifenthrin work, but can deter beneficial insects from visiting
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent leaf mites from infesting plants is to keep them as healthy as possible. Provide them with appropriate amounts of water, sunlight, and fertilizer, depending on their unique needs. Also, do the following:
  • Inspect plants regularly for leaf mites - do this every three days when conditions are hot and dry
  • Dust or rinse the leaves of houseplants on a regular basis
  • Provide at least one inch of water per week to plants
  • Avoid fertilizing during a drought
  • Select plants that are able to handle drought conditions with ease
  • Clean garden or growing area after every single crop cycle
  • Remove all weeds, as they may be host plants for leaf mites.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Dieback
plant poor
Dieback
There are several possible causes for dieback.
Overview
Overview
Dealing with dieback in plants can be tricky, in part because this is both the name of a disease itself and a common symptom of many other types of diseases. Dieback can be characterized by the progressive, gradual death of shoots, twigs, roots, and branches, generally starting first at the tips.
In many cases, dieback is caused by fungi or bacteria. These pathogens can produce cankers, wilts, stem or root rots, and even anthracnose, but the most common symptom, of course, is that various plant parts (or the entire plant) will begin to die back.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The symptoms of dieback can be gradual or slightly more abrupt. Usually, however, they are slow in developing and tend to be uniform among the various parts of a plant.
Some plants may have more localized symptoms, with all twigs affected or all branches affected but not the rest of the plant. Some potential symptoms include:
  • Dead or dying branches and twigs
  • Dieback that starts in the top of a plant and progresses downward (though it can start lower, especially for conifers)
  • A delayed flush of growth in the spring
  • Leaf margins become scorched
  • Pale green or yellow leaves
  • Leaves that are small or otherwise distorted
  • Early leaf drop
  • Reduced growth of twigs and stems
  • Thinning of crown foliage
  • Production of suckers on trunk and branches
  • Premature fall coloration (in tree species like birch, sweetgum, maple, oak, ash, etc)
The symptoms of dieback can occur within just one season or become worse each and every year.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
There are several types of dieback, each of which has a different cause with which it is associated.
"dieback" as a standalone issue, including the condition known as Staghead, is caused by fungal or bacterial infections. Staghead is a slow dieback that occurs on the upper branches of a tree, named as such because the dead limbs look much like the head of a stag.
Other causes of dieback symptoms include:
  • Cankers or wilts
  • Stem or root rots
  • Nematodes
  • Stem or root boring insects
  • Pavement being placed over root systems
  • Winter injury from cold
  • Salt damage
  • Lack of moisture (or excess of moisture)
  • Lack of an essential nutrient or element
Trees and shrubs that are attacked by insects, exposed to extremely high or low temperatures, or experience severe and frequent fluctuations in soil moisture are the most likely to suffer from dieback. These stress factors alone or in combination with each other can reduce leaf and shoot growth, and progress into death of twigs and branches.
Although any of these issues can lead to dieback, the most serious consequences tend to occur when the roots of a plant are damaged. Similarly, trees and shrubs that are planted improperly or in unfavorable locations are more likely to develop this condition.
Solutions
Solutions
There are a few things to try when dieback becomes apparent:
  • Fertilize and water the plants - these two steps, along with judicious pruning, can help reduce the stress on the root system and encourage renewed vigor
  • Have an arborist check to see if plant roots are girdling
  • Test soil pH and adjust accordingly
  • Remove and destroy infected twigs and branches
Prevention
Prevention
The best way to prevent dieback is to match the plant to the site. Make sure the conditions provided for a new planting match its needs.
  • Plant properly in deep, fertile well-draining soil
  • Make sure plant roots won’t be confined when the plant reaches its mature size
  • Avoid changes to the growing site
  • If soil compaction might be an issue, apply a few inches of wood chips and eliminate traffic over the root area
  • Fertilize and water appropriately
It is also important to avoid potential infection with pathogens that can cause dieback:
  • Avoid binding or wounding the roots and trunk whenever possible
  • Avoid excessive pruning
  • Disinfect all tools before working with plants to reduce the spread of disease
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weed

Weed Control About Sea-buckthorn

weed
Weeds
Sea-buckthorn has highly nutritious fruits and can improve nitrogen levels of the soil organically. However, it is also listed as an invasive species due to its tendency to form dense, monocultural stands.
How to Control it
As sea-buckthorn matures, its roots become more resilient, so it's best to remove it early. It's easiest to spot and remove it in early fall and spring. Smaller plants and seedlings can be removed by hand-pulling. With large scale infestations, it is advised to remove the fruit-bearing trees first in order to stop their reproduction. Remove the remaining sea-buckthorn plants in sections until all plants are uprooted. You can also spray the seedlings or cut stumps with herbicides to prevent growth. Check your property annually for more sea-buckthorn plants and remove them. If you opt for herbicide use, consult an agricultural expert to find the best active substance and application method for your geographic area. Spray on a windless day to avoid drift.
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distribution

Distribution of Sea-buckthorn

Habitat of Sea-buckthorn

Near the coast, fixed dunes, sea cliffs
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Sea-buckthorn

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Sea-buckthorn Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Sea-buckthorn

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
From its origin in habitats exposed to ample sunshine, sea-buckthorn appreciates being bathed in abundant natural light. This plant can withstand a modest reduction in light exposure but remains healthiest in conditions where the sun is unimpeded. Both excessive shade or intense light can affect its growth, giving preference to a balanced exposure.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Sea-buckthorn thrives in full sunlight but is sensitive to heat. As a plant commonly grown outdoors with abundant sunlight, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency when placed in rooms with suboptimal lighting.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Sea-buckthorn may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Sea-buckthorn enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Sea-buckthorn thrives in full sun exposure but is sensitive to heat. Although sunburn symptoms occasionally occur, they are unable to withstand intense sunlight in high-temperature environments.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Sea-buckthorn is native to cold and temperate climates, thriving in temperatures of 32 to 90°F (0 to 32℃). Adjusting to fluctuating seasonal temperatures is vital for growth and survival. In colder seasons, consider providing a protective cover against freezing temperatures.
Regional wintering strategies
Sea-buckthorn is highly cold-tolerant and does not require additional frost protection measures during winter. However, before the first freeze in autumn, it is recommended to water the plant generously to ensure the soil remains moist and enters a frozen state. This helps prevent drought and water scarcity for the plant during winter and early spring.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Sea-buckthorn is extremely cold-tolerant, but the winter temperature should be maintained above {Limit_growth_temperature}. If the temperature drops below this threshold, although there may not be any noticeable changes during winter, the branches may become brittle and dry during springtime, and no new shoots will emerge.
Solutions
In spring, prune away any dead branches that have failed to produce new leaves.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
Sea-buckthorn is not tolerant to high temperatures. When the temperature exceeds {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}, it may experience significant leaf drop, and in severe cases, the entire plant may wither and die.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun, or use a shade cloth to create shade. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Sea-buckthorn?
For sea-buckthorn, the prime time to transplant is in late frost (S2) to early spring (S4). This maximizes root development before summer heat. Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. When transplanting, always handle with care to keep the rootball intact.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Sea-buckthorn?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Sea-buckthorn?
The best season to transplant sea-buckthorn is between late fall and early spring (S2-S4). This period offers optimal conditions for root development due to cooler temperatures and abundant moisture.
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Sea-buckthorn Plants?
When transplanting sea-buckthorn, ensure to maintain a distance of approximately 6-12 feet (1.8-3.7 meters) between each plant. This allows each plant plenty of room to flourish and grow.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Sea-buckthorn Transplanting?
Prepare the soil with a well-draining base such as sandy, or clay loam soil, complemented with an organic fertilizer. This foundation ensures sea-buckthorn gets the required nutrients for growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Sea-buckthorn?
Choose a site with full or partial sunlight for transplanting sea-buckthorn. The plant thrives in a sunny location so that's your ideal choice. Remember, sunlight is key for its growth and development.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Sea-buckthorn?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Spade or Shovel
For digging up the sea-buckthorn from its original location and making the new hole.
Garden Fork
For loosening the soil around the plant if it is in the ground.
Hand Trowel
To carefully remove smaller plants from pots or seedling trays without damaging the roots.
Wheelbarrow
To transport the sea-buckthorn plant and any soil or compost to the new location.
Pruning shears
Used To prune any damaged roots or branches before transplanting.
Watering Can or Hose
For watering the plant after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Sea-buckthorn from the Soil?
From Ground: To remove sea-buckthorn from the ground, first water the plant to moisten the soil. Next, use a garden fork to loosen the earth around the plant, then a spade to dig a wide circle around it, always making sure to keep the root ball intact. Work the spade underneath the root ball slowly, lifting gently to extract the plant.
From a Pot: Start by watering the sea-buckthorn, then turn the pot on its side and carefully slide the plant out. Avoid yanking or pulling it as this might damage the roots.
From a Seedling Tray: Use a hand trowel to carefully lift each sea-buckthorn seedling from the tray. Be gentle to avoid causing damage to the delicate roots and shoots.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Sea-buckthorn
Handling The Plant
Handle the sea-buckthorn by the root ball, not the stem, to avoid damaging it.
Digging The Hole
The hole should be twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball of the sea-buckthorn. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole with a fork to allow the roots to penetrate more easily.
Placing The Plant
Place the plant carefully into the hole. Make sure it sits at the same depth it was originally growing. Spread out the roots gently if it's been grown in a pot.
Backfilling
Backfill the hole with soil, firming gently as you go to remove any air pockets which can damage the roots.
Watering
Water the sea-buckthorn thoroughly after transplanting. This helps settle the soil around the roots.
How Do You Care For Sea-buckthorn After Transplanting?
Regular Care
Keep an eye on the sea-buckthorn and ensure it doesn't dry out for the first couple of weeks after planting. It's a good idea to check on it every day.
Pruning
Trim any dead or dying branches to help the sea-buckthorn put more energy towards growth. Do this with your pruning shears. However, avoid heavy pruning until the plant is well established.
Protection
Depending on the climate, newly transplanted shrubs like sea-buckthorn may need protection from intense sun or wind until they've had a chance to establish themselves.
Monitoring
Watch out for signs of transplant shock like wilting, yellowing, or dropped leaves. If you notice anything concerning, consider seeking advice from a local garden center or extension service.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Sea-buckthorn Transplantation.
When is the best time to transplant sea-buckthorn?
Transplanting sea-buckthorn is ideally done during the late summer to late autumn period, which corresponds to S2-S4 season.
How far apart should sea-buckthorn be spaced while transplanting?
Ensure to space sea-buckthorn at least 6 to 12 feet (approximately 1.8 to 3.6 metres) apart. This gives each plant sufficient room to grow.
Which type of soil should be used for transplanting sea-buckthorn?
Sea-buckthorn is quite versatile and can tolerate various soils. But, amending the soil with organic matter would help improve the plant's performance.
What should I do if the transplanted sea-buckthorn shows signs of stress?
Reduce stress by providing proper care. Keep the soil moist, not waterlogged. Implement shade protection for the first few weeks after transplanting.
Should sea-buckthorn be pruned before transplanting?
Yes, it would be helpful. Prune the sea-buckthorn moderately to reduce the shock of transplanting, retain only healthy branches and shorten long ones.
What to do if the transplanted sea-buckthorn isn't showing any growth?
Patience is key. If it's not wilting or turning yellow, it's likely establishing its root system. However, ensure it's receiving enough water and sunlight.
Why are the leaves of my transplanted sea-buckthorn turning yellow?
This could indicate overwatering or poor drainage. Make sure the soil drains well and you're not overly saturating it. A well-drained soil help the roots breathe.
Should I fertilize sea-buckthorn after transplanting?
It's not immediately necessary, but applying a slow-release, balanced fertilizer after a few weeks can help boost growth. Avoid heavy feeding at first, as it could stress the plant.
Does the size of the planting hole matter when transplanting sea-buckthorn?
Yes, it does. The hole should be twice the width and the same depth as the root ball. This facilitates easier establishment of the plant in its new location.
What is the ideal temperature for transplanting sea-buckthorn?
Sea-buckthorn is a hardy plant and can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, but the optimal range for transplanting is 59-77°F (15-25°C).
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