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Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya pubicalyx
Also known as : Porcelain flower, Silver pink vine
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
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Care Guide for Hoya pubicalyx

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Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Partial sun, Full shade
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
10 to 11
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Hoya pubicalyx
Water
Water
Every week
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
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Questions About Hoya pubicalyx

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What should I do if I water my Hoya pubicalyx too much or too little?
Underwatered Hoya pubicalyx Hoya pubicalyx and other succulents can endure long periods without water, so it’s unusual to find one of these suffering from underwatering. But, if you somehow forgot about your plant and neglected to water it for a month or more, you’ll probably find your Hoya pubicalyx looking thirsty or with some damage from lack of watering. It is very easy to identify an underwatered Hoya pubicalyx. Plant look lacklustre and wrinkled. Some may have dried up completely, turned brown and crispy, or dropped off the plant. And of course, the soil will be completely dried out. If your Hoya pubicalyx is thirsty and underwatered, give it plenty of water as soon as possible. Submerging the pot entirely in water for about 5-10 minutes is a good way to make sure the soil and plant are rehydrated properly. When you feel a sense of moisture on the surface of the soil with your finger, it means the watering is done properly. Overwatered Hoya pubicalyx Overwatering is dangerous to Hoya pubicalyx and can be fatal to your plant if you don’t remedy the situation. Too much moisture over time leads to root rot, which prevents the roots from being able to absorb nutrients and water from the soil. Root rot occurs when wet conditions allow fungi and bacteria to flourish in the soil and feed on roots. When you find that it's overwatered, you'd better change the growing conditions, place it somewhere with more air ventilation and adjust water frequency, for example. The symptoms of overwatering are yellow, swollen, and translucent organs that may even burst open from being over-full with water. If the problem continues without being treated, plant might turn brown or black, and fall off the plant at the slightest touch. Be sure to check the soil to determine if overwatering is the culprit, as some other issues can cause similar symptoms. It’s a bit difficult (but not impossible) to save an overwatered plant. The key is catching it early before a lot of damage has occurred. If the roots become rotten, it is likely to kill the entire plant. If you suspect you have overwatered your Hoya pubicalyx, the first step is to remove it from its pot and check the roots and soil. After removing the plant from its pot, gently remove wet soil from around the roots and then rinse them clean in room-temperature water. This helps with removing fungus that might be lurking in the soil and allows you to get a better sense of how healthy the roots are. If your plant has already developed root rot, you will see roots that are dark brown or black, soft, mushy, or slimy. If the majority of the roots are already affected by root rot, it may not be possible to save the plant. In this case, it is best to remove any healthy stem and try to use these to propagate a new Hoya pubicalyx. If, on the other hand, only a portion of the roots have succumbed to rot and other healthy roots still remain, there is a chance it can be saved. Use a sterilized cutting tool to remove any unhealthy-looking roots. Once you're left with only the firm, pale roots, it’s a good idea to dip them in a fungicide to kill off any remaining spores. After that you can repot your Hoya pubicalyx in fresh, free-draining potting soil. While this does not always work to save a succulent with root rot, in most cases this plant will be able to make a full recovery and will put out new growth starting in the next growing season.
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How often should I water my Hoya pubicalyx?
There’s not a hard-and-fast rule for how often to water Hoya pubicalyx. The best way to determine this is to check the soil and only water when it’s bone dry. You can either stick your finger in the pot or use a moisture meter to check the soil below the surface. When you plant it in a deep pot, you can do this with a stick or chopstick. If it feels even a little bit moist, wait a few days and check it again. Most people will need to water Hoya pubicalyx about every two weeks in summer and once a month in winter, but there are several factors that can change the frequency. The section below lists some considerations that can help you to determine how often to water.
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What should I consider when watering my Hoya pubicalyx?
There are several environmental conditions that will affect how your Hoya pubicalyx needs to be watered, including the container size, soil type, temperature, and humidity. First off, the container and soil you use will determine how often to water and how much water to use each time. Be sure you use a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom so extra water can escape the pot. A small container has less room for soil, meaning it won’t hold as much moisture, while a larger pot will stay wet longer and need to be watered less often. It’s important not to keep your Hoya pubicalyx in an oversized pot as this can easily lead to overwatering. When repotting, move to just one size larger than the current container. A shallow container works better than a deep one, since Hoya pubicalyx has shallow root systems. Hoya pubicalyx will need to be watered less often in winter and more often in the active growing season in spring and autumn. During the winter, growth slows down considerably and the plant isn’t using much energy or water. There is less water lost to evaporation in cooler winter air, meaning that soil stays wet for much longer than it would in the summer. This also applies to the general climate around your home. If you live in a humid location with a lot of rain, you will need to water less often than if you live in a dry, arid climate. Remember that conditions at the same geographic location can vary significantly with the season and the use of indoor heating and air conditioning. Outdoor Planting If Hoya pubicalyx is planted in the ground, after establishing a root system, it shouldn’t need supplemental water beyond what it receives through precipitation and dew. But if there is a long dry period, you may want to water occasionally. In other areas where Hoya pubicalyx can only be grown in a container, this plant can be moved outside in the spring and summer when the temperature is proper and then brought back inside when temperatures start to drop. A potted Hoya pubicalyx kept outside usually needs more water than the same plant kept indoors, because there is a lot more sun exposure even on a shaded porch.
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How to water Hoya pubicalyx?
The best way to water Hoya pubicalyx is to soak it thoroughly and then allow it to dry out before it gets watered again. Since this plant is somewhat drought tolerant, you can let it get quite dry before watering again. It is always better to give this type of plant too little water over too much. When you water, make sure the soil gets thoroughly soaked throughout the whole pot. Don’t pour the water in just one spot, but rather try to go around the whole rim of the planter to be sure that it has a chance to get wet on all sides of the plant. The correct amount of water will depend on the size of your container and how much water your soil absorbs. Give your Hoya pubicalyx enough water that it drains out from the drainage holes and then (ideally) leave the drained water in the saucer for about 20-30 minutes to absorb into dry pockets of soil. After that, discard any excess water that’s still in the saucer to avoid the soil getting waterlogged. Bottom-watering is also an excellent method for Hoya pubicalyx, as you can be sure that the soil gets thoroughly moistened. This process involves placing the pot into a saucer of water and allowing the soil to absorb moisture through the drainage holes. You will know that the soil has absorbed enough water when the top layer is moist. This takes a bit more time than top-watering, but is almost foolproof in getting an even distribution of water throughout the pot. The original habitat of Hoya pubicalyx is relatively dry with little rain, but when it rains, the soil will be thoroughly moistened. So you can mimic this situation by bottom-watering your plant when the soil is totally dry. Deep soil bathing is better than frequent light watering for Hoya pubicalyx.
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Key Facts About Hoya pubicalyx

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Attributes of Hoya pubicalyx

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb, Vine, Succulent
Bloom Time
Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
8 to 10 feet
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Color
Pink
Red
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Hoya pubicalyx

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Common Pests & Diseases About Hoya pubicalyx

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Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Scale insects
Scale insects Scale insects
Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Solutions: Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay. When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options: Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew) Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Scale insects
plant poor
Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Overview
Overview
Tiny, bumpy growths all over the stem of a plant is a classic sign of scale insects. These sucking insects bury their mouthparts into the leaves, fruit, or bark of trees, shrubs, and other plants. Over time, scale insects can severely damage their hosts.
Scale insects are not just one species of insects but instead are a large, diverse group of more than 8,000 individual species, including soft scales (brown soft scale, cottony maple scale, European elm scale) and armored scales (oystershell scale, euonymus scale, San Jose scale). These tiny pests may be between 3 to 10 mm in length and are closely related to whiteflies and aphids.
Despite the differences in size and appearance, the one thing that all scale insects have in common is that they grow beneath a wax covering. This covering looks somewhat like the scales of a fish or a reptile - hence the name. It protects the insect from harm.
Scale insects feed on a wide variety of plants but are most common on herbaceous ornamental plants (both indoor and outdoor) as well as numerous species of shrubs and trees. Scale insects are easy to overlook, in part because they are so small and also because they do not look like actual insects. However, it is important to take action as soon as they are noticed to ensure the health of the plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious symptom is the presence of groups of the insects themselves, which look much like bumpy growths on plants, generally quite small (less than the size of a coin). Scale insects tend to cluster together and appear all at once.
The insects hatch from eggs inside these scales and develop through two growth stages before becoming adults. Once mature, adult females produce eggs that they hide beneath their bodies. These ultimately hatch into tiny crawlers, which are yellow to orange, and begin feeding within just a day or two. They suck sap through their needle-like mouthparts and will excrete a substance called honeydew behind them as they eat.
Since the scale insectss are subtle in appearance, symptoms in the host plants may be the first sign that is noticed. As the insects eat all the plant's nutrients, leaves will drop prematurely, and the growth of plants becomes stunted. Dead or browned leaves might remain for a long period of time on the scale-killed branches.
Sooty mold can also appear on infested plants, growing in the honeydew that the insects leave behind. It is a black fungus that is fluffy and unattractive. The sooty mold growth causes plants to yellow, since it interferes with the process of photosynthesis.
Solutions
Solutions
Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay.
When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options:
  • Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale
  • Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew)
  • Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations
  • Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
  • Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants
  • Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Distribution of Hoya pubicalyx

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Distribution Map of Hoya pubicalyx

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Hoya Pubicalyx Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
Transplant
15-20 inches
The prime window for relocating hoya pubicalyx is from the awakening of early greenery until the cusp of summer's warmth, fostering robust growth. Choose a well-lit spot without direct sun. Gently introduce hoya pubicalyx to its new home, ensuring similar soil conditions.
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Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya pubicalyx
Also known as: Porcelain flower, Silver pink vine
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
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Care Guide for Hoya pubicalyx

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Questions About Hoya pubicalyx

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What should I do if I water my Hoya pubicalyx too much or too little?
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How often should I water my Hoya pubicalyx?
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What should I consider when watering my Hoya pubicalyx?
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How to water Hoya pubicalyx?
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Key Facts About Hoya pubicalyx

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Attributes of Hoya pubicalyx

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Herb, Vine, Succulent
Bloom Time
Late spring, Early summer
Plant Height
8 to 10 feet
Leaf Color
Green
Red
Flower Color
Pink
Red
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Hoya pubicalyx

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Common Pests & Diseases About Hoya pubicalyx

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Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Learn More About the Underwatering more
Scale insects
Scale insects Scale insects Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Solutions: Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay. When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options: Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew) Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Learn More About the Scale insects more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
close
Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Scale insects
plant poor
Scale insects
Scale insects are generally 2 to 3 mm across and can be found in a range of colors. They often cluster near leaf veins and can be scraped off with a fingernail.
Overview
Overview
Tiny, bumpy growths all over the stem of a plant is a classic sign of scale insects. These sucking insects bury their mouthparts into the leaves, fruit, or bark of trees, shrubs, and other plants. Over time, scale insects can severely damage their hosts.
Scale insects are not just one species of insects but instead are a large, diverse group of more than 8,000 individual species, including soft scales (brown soft scale, cottony maple scale, European elm scale) and armored scales (oystershell scale, euonymus scale, San Jose scale). These tiny pests may be between 3 to 10 mm in length and are closely related to whiteflies and aphids.
Despite the differences in size and appearance, the one thing that all scale insects have in common is that they grow beneath a wax covering. This covering looks somewhat like the scales of a fish or a reptile - hence the name. It protects the insect from harm.
Scale insects feed on a wide variety of plants but are most common on herbaceous ornamental plants (both indoor and outdoor) as well as numerous species of shrubs and trees. Scale insects are easy to overlook, in part because they are so small and also because they do not look like actual insects. However, it is important to take action as soon as they are noticed to ensure the health of the plants.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The most obvious symptom is the presence of groups of the insects themselves, which look much like bumpy growths on plants, generally quite small (less than the size of a coin). Scale insects tend to cluster together and appear all at once.
The insects hatch from eggs inside these scales and develop through two growth stages before becoming adults. Once mature, adult females produce eggs that they hide beneath their bodies. These ultimately hatch into tiny crawlers, which are yellow to orange, and begin feeding within just a day or two. They suck sap through their needle-like mouthparts and will excrete a substance called honeydew behind them as they eat.
Since the scale insectss are subtle in appearance, symptoms in the host plants may be the first sign that is noticed. As the insects eat all the plant's nutrients, leaves will drop prematurely, and the growth of plants becomes stunted. Dead or browned leaves might remain for a long period of time on the scale-killed branches.
Sooty mold can also appear on infested plants, growing in the honeydew that the insects leave behind. It is a black fungus that is fluffy and unattractive. The sooty mold growth causes plants to yellow, since it interferes with the process of photosynthesis.
Solutions
Solutions
Outdoors, the weather and natural enemies of scale insects (such as lady beetles and parasitic wasps) typically keep these pests at bay.
When their numbers become abundant (or when scale insects affect indoor plants), interventions are needed. Here are some options:
  • Dip a cotton swab in 80% isopropyl alcohol and run it over the leaves and stems to remove scale
  • Wash leaves with a mild detergent solution (this also removes honeydew)
  • Inspect plants weekly for additional infestations
  • Use spot treatments of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil
  • Remove the plant if a heavy infestation cannot be eliminated – this will prevent it from spreading to other plants
  • Take steps to control ants that may have been attracted to the insects' honeydew
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent scale insects from affecting plants, take the following steps:
  • Carefully inspect plants before purchasing, checking every stem and leaf for signs of scale
  • Make traps for new insects by leaving double-sided tape near stems and branches
  • Ensure that plants have a good growing environment, monitoring both moisture and sunlight levels
  • Introduce small parasitic wasps and other predators to the garden
  • Rinse small plants when foliage becomes dusty
  • Prune weak areas of a plant to eliminate potential infestation hot spots
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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distribution

Distribution of Hoya pubicalyx

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Distribution Map of Hoya pubicalyx

distribution map
Native
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No species reported
care_scenes

More Info on Hoya Pubicalyx Growth and Care

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