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Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Hylocereus megalanthus
Also known as : Yellow dragon fruit
Yellow pitaya (Hylocereus megalanthus) is a cactus species native to northern South America. Yellow pitaya is considered easy to grow and fast-growing. This species grows best in full sunlight. Yellow pitaya grows some of the largest flowers of all cactus species. It is recognized for its distinctive yellow fruit, called yellow dragon fruit.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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care guide

Care Guide for Yellow pitaya

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Watering Care
Watering Care
Average water needs,watering when the top 3 cm of soil has dried out.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilization once a month during the growing season.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Deadhead (or remove) withered flowers after flowering.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Sand, Slightly acidic, Neutral, Slightly alkaline
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Needs excellent drainage in pots.
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Yellow pitaya
Water
Water
Every 2 weeks
Sunlight
Sunlight
Full sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Questions About Yellow pitaya

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Yellow pitaya?
It's important to know various ways to water the Yellow pitaya. Some might ask whether they should do the watering from top to bottom, or is it the opposite? According to the experts, one of the best ways to water the cactus is to start from the bottom. This will ensure that there will be enough water to reach the root of the plants. If you're starting from the top, there will not be enough saturation. The water will trickle and evaporate, and only a small amount will reach its roots.
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What should I do if my Yellow pitaya is underwatered?
Sometimes, you might notice that even if you water it frequently enough, it will start to dry out. When you see that the flowers are beginning to wilt and there's not enough water, the issue might be in the container where they are planted. Choose a bigger one if this is the case. Buy a pot that drains easily. You will need to mix it with the right potting soil and clean sand so it will absorb more water easier. The soil that is too wet will not go well with the roots. Since this species is an epiphyte, it won't be able to handle soggy roots since it absorbs water and nutrients from the air. It's best to ensure that there's proper drainage to prevent fungal infections. When you notice the cactus is limp, you can transfer or re-pot it into fresh earth. Gently remove the soil as much as possible and keep it evenly moist. Mist the cactus frequently whenever possible. After the flowers have finished blooming, you might want to cut back on watering until you see new buds appearing. When the soil dries too much, the buds will begin to drop, so you might want to add some water but not too much. Sometimes, underwatering, which is followed by overwatering that many owners do for compensation, is quite common. These cacti are considered to be succulents. The lack of water is not noticeable until everything is too late. They show that there are issues when they begin to droop and wither. The well-intentioned plant owner will give them massive amounts of water. This is where the roots become desiccated. They become so dry that they can't take in any excess water. It will result in waterlogged plants, and the remaining roots may rot. If you notice some signs of wilting or underwatering, you can try to bring the species back to life with regular and frequent watering. However, make sure that it won't be a deluge, so you'll give the cactus a chance to regenerate and recover its roots.
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How much water should I give my Yellow pitaya?
The Yellow pitaya must be properly watered to keep it healthy all year round. It should be potted in well-draining soil so it would produce beautiful blooms. The amount of water that the Yellow pitaya needs can vary. When you see that about 1/3 of the topsoil is dry, this is the best time to water them. They are thirstier than the other succulents, so watering should take place about 1x every week. Use your fingers to check if the soil is about two inches dry. If you notice that the soil is very dry on the top layer, run the water until it goes through the drainage of the pots. There should be a tray underneath to catch the extra water. After about 10 to 15 minutes, discard everything, including the excess water. The soaking method should work well with the Yellow pitaya but don't let it sit on the water-filled pot for a long time. When the species is in its flowering stage, it's highly recommended to water it sparingly. Ideally, the best time to water them is when you notice that the leaves begin to droop. Make sure to fill the saucer of the pots with pebbles. Add water to the pebbles to add humidity to your Yellow pitaya. The best way to understand whether it's time to water the Yellow pitaya is to check the soil. When it's too dry, simply add water and moisture. However, don't let the pot sit in the water, especially during the winter when the soil takes a long time to dry. This can cause root rot. Know that these species can react to various seasonal changes. Watering it the correct way will mean that you should consider the climate. If you live in a dry and hot climate, the plants will need more watering, which is about twice per week. If you live in a humid area, then watering only 1x a week can work well. You should water this less frequently in the fall and winter if you want the flowers to bloom. When the pots are exposed to too much sunlight, then the moisture will dry out faster. This is when the plant needs more watering. Watering should be less if it is in a cool or humid place.
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What will happen if I overwater my Yellow pitaya?
Sometimes, you might overwater your Yellow pitaya, which makes it look limp or wilted. When you've neglected it for too long, give it a little drink. Continue to provide it with water in a sparing way until you see that there's slight moisture in the soil. Overwatering can cause the development of a fungal infection called white rot. The leaves tend to droop, which might result in wilting. Like any other species, the cactus can't stand overwatering or underwatering. They don't tolerate dry soil since the flowers will start dropping at the same time, and this is something that you don't want to happen.
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Should I adjust the frequency of watering my Yellow pitaya according to different seasons?
The cold months and the hot months are not the same. The temperatures tend to drop during the winter and fall, and the soil will take longer to dry. This is when you don't need to water the succulents often. These two seasons are also the best time for the Yellow pitaya to show its beautiful blooms. Water sparingly to maintain the health of the plant. During the months of October, stop watering when there's too much water in the soil. Resume the care in November but keep the moisture light when the temperatures are still cool. When the blooms start to appear, stop watering for about a few weeks so the plants can rest from too much moisture. These are very delicate, so when you see new growth, you can resume the watering once a week if you need to.
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Should I water my Yellow pitaya differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
Your plant's location is something you need to consider when it comes to its watering needs. When the plant grows near the window or outdoors, the air might be too dry, and the temperatures are too high. This is where you should water the plant for about 2x a week. When it's growing indoors in a humid and cool environment, it will definitely need less watering. Indirect sunlight will also have an impact since the soil does not tend to dry out faster. This is where the succulent will just be fine with once-a-week watering. However, you still need to check the soil with a moisture meter to know what it needs.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Yellow pitaya

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Attributes of Yellow pitaya

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Vine, Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
2 m
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
30 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Fruit Color
Yellow
Gold
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Trivia and Interesting Facts

The flowers are dependent upon bats and moths for pollination, so they bloom overnight and usually wilt the next morning. A repeat bloomer, this cactus can produce flowers four or five times a year if grown in the right conditions. Yellow pitaya is like most cacti, if a healthy stem is broken off, you can plant it in the soil and a new plant will grow.

Scientific Classification of Yellow pitaya

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Common Pests & Diseases About Yellow pitaya

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Common issues for Yellow pitaya based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
plant poor
Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Underwatering
plant poor
Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
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Aged yellow and dry
plant poor
Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
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Stem rot
plant poor
Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
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Distribution of Yellow pitaya

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Habitat of Yellow pitaya

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Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Yellow pitaya

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Yellow Pitaya Growth and Care

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Basic Care Guide
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Lighting
Full sun
Yellow pitaya thrives under strong solar exposure and can flourish with moderate light. An abundance of sunlight promotes its healthy growth and enriches its yellow hue. Though it can withstand some degree of shade, inadequate sunlight may dull its color and hamper development. Its original habitat exhibits high solar intensity. Overexposure could lead to scorched skin, while underexposure might restrict growth.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
10-12 feet
For yellow pitaya, the most suitable transplanting season is mid-Spring, or 'S3', when it can smoothly adapt to new surroundings. Choose a shady or semi-shady location as yellow pitaya need protection from direct sunlight. Be gentle during transplanting to prevent root damage. Trust me, yellow pitaya will reward you with beautiful blooms.
Transplant Techniques
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
Yellow pitaya is native to environments that enjoy temperatures between 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives best when the temperature is maintained in this range. Seasonal adjustments might be necessary to mimic its natural habitat.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Overwinter
5 - 43 ℃
Yellow pitaya hails from the tropics, naturally dodging cold winters. Adapting this species to a winter setting can be tricky. Indoor growth is a must when temperatures drop below 32°F (0°C). Gardeners should maintain a humidity level of 50-80% and a daytime temperature around 70°F (21°C) to mirror yellow pitaya's native conditions. Sanitize the heater regularly to combat pests, common in heated indoor environments.
Winter Techniques
Feng shui direction
South
As an emblem of prosperity and good luck, the yellow pitaya may create amity in a southern-facing home. Its vibrance resonates with the Fire element, predominantly associated with the South. However, its impact depends much on personal perception and surrounding elements, reflecting the complex and personal nature of Feng Shui.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Yellow pitaya

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Napa cabbage
Napa cabbage
Napa cabbage (Brassica rapa subsp. pekinensis) is a widely grown crop as it can be used in numerous culinary dishes such as soups, stir-fries, steamed sides, stuffing or filling, or fresh in salads. Its name comes from the Japanese colloquialism "nappa" which refers to the leaves of various vegetables, especially when they're used as food.
Mung bean
Mung bean
Mung bean (Vigna radiata) is a plant in the legume family that is native to India and is mostly cultivated for culinary uses. It is considered a warm season crop and is both heat and drought-tolerant. Plant in early summer to harvest in fall.
Mandrake
Mandrake
With roots that resemble human figures, mandrake plants have long been affiliated with the supernatural, from ancient witchcraft to Harry Potter. Ancient lore says that when pulled, the root would reveal a shrieking, angry humanoid. Mandrake (Mandragora officinarum) produces five-petaled purple to blue flowers amid sprawling, chard-like leaves. All parts of the plant are poisonous.
Lingonberry
Lingonberry
You can eat the fruit of lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea). However, these berries will taste bitter unless you leave them on the branch over the winter. This makes them taste much sweeter. The leaves stay on the plant all winter long. The berries are popular to make jam.
King palm
King palm
The king palm (Archontophoenix cunninghamiana) is native to tropical regions of Australia. Its lifespan is from 50 to 150 years. The small red fruit attracts a wide variety of birds. In countries where it has been introduced as an ornamental, it can become invasive.
Hyssop
Hyssop
Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) is an annual herb that can grow to be 61 to 91 cm tall. It blooms in late summer and has clusters of tiny lavender-blue flowers. Hyssop flowers are fragrant and attract hummingbirds, bees and butterflies.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya
Hylocereus megalanthus
Also known as: Yellow dragon fruit
Yellow pitaya (Hylocereus megalanthus) is a cactus species native to northern South America. Yellow pitaya is considered easy to grow and fast-growing. This species grows best in full sunlight. Yellow pitaya grows some of the largest flowers of all cactus species. It is recognized for its distinctive yellow fruit, called yellow dragon fruit.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
more
question

Questions About Yellow pitaya

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Watering Watering Watering
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Yellow pitaya?
more
What should I do if my Yellow pitaya is underwatered?
more
How much water should I give my Yellow pitaya?
more
What will happen if I overwater my Yellow pitaya?
more
Should I adjust the frequency of watering my Yellow pitaya according to different seasons?
more
Should I water my Yellow pitaya differently when I plant it indoors vs outdoors?
more
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Key Facts About Yellow pitaya

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Attributes of Yellow pitaya

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Vine, Shrub
Planting Time
Spring, Early summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Spring, Summer
Harvest Time
Summer
Plant Height
2 m
Spread
50 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
30 cm
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Fruit Color
Yellow
Gold
Stem Color
Green
Dormancy
Winter dormancy
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Trivia and Interesting Facts

The flowers are dependent upon bats and moths for pollination, so they bloom overnight and usually wilt the next morning. A repeat bloomer, this cactus can produce flowers four or five times a year if grown in the right conditions. Yellow pitaya is like most cacti, if a healthy stem is broken off, you can plant it in the soil and a new plant will grow.

Scientific Classification of Yellow pitaya

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Yellow pitaya

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Common issues for Yellow pitaya based on 10 million real cases
Scars
Scars Scars Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Solutions: Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Learn More About the Scars more
Underwatering
Underwatering Underwatering Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with. Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock. In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
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Aged yellow and dry
Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Solutions: If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
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Stem rot
Stem rot Stem rot Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Solutions: If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water. For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
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Scars
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Scars
Any light-colored markings that appear on stems but which do not enlarge or multiply are simply scars that have healed.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Scars form when the plant repairs wounds. They can be the result of people or pets passing by and scraping the plant. Once the underlying issue is resolved, the plant will heal but a scar may remain.
Pests and pathogens can also cause scarring. Insects may attack the plant for a meal, resulting in extensive scarring when a few invaders turn into an infestation. Diseases such as fungus and bacteria can weaken the plant, causing brown spots, mushy areas, or blisters that lead to scars.
Scars occur on stems when a leaf or bud has been lost and the plant has healed. The harder tissue is like a scab that protects a wound.
On other occasions, scars can signal problems from environmental conditions, such as overexposure to sunlight or heat. It might surprise you to know that plants can suffer from sunburn, even desert dwellers like cactus!
Solutions
Solutions
Each source of scarring requires a different approach to help your plant recover.
  1. Protect the trunk and leaves from physical damage like scrapes.
  2. If pests or disease are the cause of scarring, isolate the plant from others to avoid further spread. Some pests can be removed with organic remedies such as a soft cloth and soapy water solution or diluted isopropyl alcohol spray.
  3. Stop sunburn by moving your plant away from direct sunlight and making sure it has the water it needs.
  4. Frequent leaf or bud loss may be due to insufficient light or nutrients.
Prevention
Prevention
Preventing some sources of scarring is easier than others, but all start with careful attention to your plants once you decide to bring them home.
  1. Review specific guidelines for your plant, including soil drainage, watering, and fertilizer requirements.
  2. Inspect plants before planting and use sterile pots and fresh potting soil or media to limit transfer of fungi or bacteria.
  3. Once established, check your plants regularly for signs of scarring or the presence of pests, as it is better to catch problems as early as possible.
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Underwatering
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Underwatering
Leaves may wilt for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Underwatering plants is one of the quickest ways to kill them. This is something that most gardeners are well aware of. Unfortunately, knowing exactly how much water a plant needs can be tricky, especially considering that underwatering and overwatering present similar symptoms in plants.
Therefore, it’s important to be vigilant and attentive to each plants’ individual needs.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
As mentioned earlier, overwatering and underwatering present similar symptoms in plants. These symptoms include poor growth, wilted leaves, defoliation, and brown leaf tips or margins. Ultimately, both underwatering and overwatering can lead to the death of a plant.
The easiest way to determine whether a plant has too much water or too little is to look at the leaves. If underwatering is the culprit, the leaves will look brown and crunchy, while if it’s overwatering, they will appear yellow or a pale green in color.
When this issue first begins, there may be no noticeable symptoms at all, particularly in hardy or drought-tolerant plants. However, they will begin to wilt once they start suffering from a lack of water. The edges of the plant’s leaves will become brown or curled. Soil pulling away from the edges of the planter is a telltale sign, or a crispy, brittle stem.
Prolonged underwatering can cause a plant’s growth to become stunted. The leaves might drop and the plant can be more susceptible to pest infestations, too.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Underwatering is caused by, quite simply, not watering plants often or deeply enough. There is a heightened risk of underwatering if any of these situations apply:
  • Extreme heat and dry weather (when growing outdoors)
  • Grow lights or indoor lighting that is too bright or intense for the type of plant
  • Using fast-draining growing media such as sand
Solutions
Solutions
The easiest (and most obvious) way to address underwatering is to fully hydrate the plant. However, this must be done carefully. A common mistake that many gardeners make is to douse their underwatered plants with water. This can overwhelm the roots of the plant and shock its system, something that can be even more damaging than the lack of water to begin with.
Instead, water thoroughly and slowly, taking breaks to let the water slowly saturate through the soil to get to the roots. Use room temperature water, as cold water might be too much of a shock.
In the future, shorten the time between waterings. A good rule of thumb is to check the soil around each plant daily. If it’s dry to at least two inches down, it’s time to water. If a container plant is repeatedly drying out very quickly, repotting into a slower-draining container might be a good idea, too.
Prevention
Prevention
Always check the soil before watering. If the top inch of soil feels moist, though not wet, the watering is perfect. If it’s dry, water it immediately. If it feels soggy, you avoid watering until it dries out a bit more.
Also, make sure the lighting is sufficient for the species. Plants grow faster and need more water when there is intense light or lots of heat. Being aware of these conditions and modifying them, if possible, is a good way to prevent underwatering. Many container plants are potted in soil mixtures mean to be well-draining. Adding materials that retain moisture, like compost or peat moss, can also prevent these symptoms.
Other tips to prevent underwatering include:
  • Choose pots with adequately-sized drainage holes
  • Avoid warm temperatures
  • Use large pots with additional soil (these take longer to dry out)
  • Avoid terracotta pots, which lose water quickly
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Aged yellow and dry
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Aged yellow and dry
Natural aging can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out.
Overview
Overview
Regardless of the type of plant or where it is grown, at some point, it will begin to aged yellow and dry. This is a natural, unavoidable process that happens when the plant has completed all of the steps in its life.
Annual plants go through this process at the end of a single growing season. Perennial plants live for multiple years, if not tens or hundreds of years, but will still ultimately exhibit these symptoms.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
When plants have progressed through their natural developmental stages and are nearing the end of their lifecycle, they begin showing signs of decline. Leaves will start to yellow and droop, and over time they turn papery brown and dry.
Once completely dry, the leaves begin to fall from the plant until the entire plant has dried out.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
At the end of its life, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence or natural aging and death. Cell division stops, and the plant begins catabolizing resources to use in other parts of the plant.
As this happens, the tissues begin yellow and drying until the entire plant is desiccated and perishes.
Solutions
Solutions
If the yellowing and drying of leaves and flowers is a natural progression due to age, nothing can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
Prevention
Prevention
Unfortunately, there is no way to prevent plants from dying of “old age.” To help prolong their life, and put off symptoms of aged yellow and dry for as long as possible, take care of them by giving them enough water, fertilizing them appropriately, and making sure they get enough sunlight.
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Stem rot
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Stem rot
Bacterial infection can cause the stems to become soft and rotten.
Overview
Overview
Stem rot is a serious disease and can affect many different types of plants. it can be particularly prevalent when the temperature of the soil is over 16 ℃ and there's a lot of moisture in the soil. This could be from unusually heavy rainfalls or too much irrigation. Once stem rot sets in, it's very difficult to get rid of the disease and most affected plants will have to be discarded. This is especially the case for vegetables, herbs, and other herbaceous plants that have soft stems. This is why it's important to ensure that the soil used for growing these plants is well-drained and that overwatering is avoided. Using good cultural practices also help in curbing these types of fungal diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Plants that have been affected by stem rot will first display a yellowing of the lower leaves. This is followed by obvious wilting and stunted growth.
If the stem of the affected plant is examined closely, there will be some dark discolorations starting near the base and moving upward. If the roots of affected plants are examined, they will appear dark and mushy instead of white and healthy-looking. Eventually, the entire plant will wilt and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Stem rot is caused by a variety of soil-borne fungus pathogens. The type of fungus depends on the species of plant that is affected. Two fungi responsible for stem rot are Rhizoctonia and Fusarium. These fungal pathogens live in soil and migrate to the plant when conditions are optimum. This includes warm, humid weather and excessive soil moisture. Commonly, vegetable seedlings are affected by these fungi.
Sclerotinia sclerotiorum is another fungus that causes stem rot in plants. This fungus has a host range of over 350 different species of plants. Plants most susceptible to this fungus include many vegetable varieties such as cucumbers, beans, cilantro, carrots, cabbage, melons, lettuce, peas, onions, tomatoes, pumpkins, and squash. This fungus can produce different symptoms in different species. In some cases, the fungus causes irregular spots on stems and other plant material that appear water-soaked. On other plant species, the fungus appears as dry lesions that grow and girdle the stem of the plant.
The third type of fungus that causes stem rot is Phytophthora capsici. Plants that belong to the cucumber family are most susceptible to this fungal infection. This fungus manifests as water-soaked lesions on the stems that then turn brown and girdle the stem.
All of these fungal pathogens are transmitted to the plant by water splashing from the soil up onto the plant. That's because the fungal spores live in the soil where they wait for the right conditions to infect the plants.
Solutions
Solutions
If the plant is only infected a little, it can sometimes be saved. This mainly applies to houseplants that are grown in pots. Here's what to do.
  1. Remove the plant from the pot and gently shake off as much soil as possible.
  2. Using pruning tools that have been disinfected, remove any diseased foliage and roots.
  3. Be sure the new pot has good drainage holes and wash it with one part bleach and nine parts water to ensure that it is completely clean and sanitized.
  4. Dip the plant's roots in fungicide to kill off any remaining fungal spores before potting into the clean growing medium.
  5. Only water the plant when the top inch of the soil is dry and never let the plant sit in water.
For plants that are grown in the ground, it's best just to remove the infected plants and destroy them. Do not plant in the same spot until the soil has been allowed to dry out and has been treated with a fungicide.
Prevention
Prevention
For outdoor gardens:
  1. Raking the garden thoroughly in the springtime will help to cut down on pathogens that may be living in the soil.
  2. Using a copper fungicide on plants in the springtime will cut down on fungal growth and prevent the spread of infection.
  3. Placing a heavy layer of mulch on top of the soil will also prevent pathogens from splashing up onto the stems of plants.
  4. Place plants at the recommended spacing to encourage better air flow between them.
  5. Water plants at the base instead of overhead to prevent excessive moisture on foliage.
For indoor plants:
  1. Avoid overwatering houseplants and ensure the roots do not sit in water.
  2. Make sure that indoor plants receive adequate air circulation and light.
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distribution

Distribution of Yellow pitaya

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Habitat of Yellow pitaya

Desert
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Yellow pitaya

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Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Plants Related to Yellow pitaya

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Yellow pitaya thrives under strong solar exposure and can flourish with moderate light. An abundance of sunlight promotes its healthy growth and enriches its yellow hue. Though it can withstand some degree of shade, inadequate sunlight may dull its color and hamper development. Its original habitat exhibits high solar intensity. Overexposure could lead to scorched skin, while underexposure might restrict growth.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Yellow pitaya thrives in full sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. However, when cultivated indoors during winter, it's often placed in rooms with insufficient lighting, leading to easily noticeable symptoms of light deficiency.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Yellow pitaya may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Yellow pitaya enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Yellow pitaya thrives in full sun exposure but can also tolerate partial shade. They have a remarkable resilience to intense sunlight, and symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
Yellow pitaya is native to environments that enjoy temperatures between 68 to 100 °F (20 to 38 ℃). It thrives best when the temperature is maintained in this range. Seasonal adjustments might be necessary to mimic its natural habitat.
Regional wintering strategies
Yellow pitaya is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Yellow pitaya indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in Yellow pitaya
Yellow pitaya prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in Yellow pitaya
During summer, Yellow pitaya should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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