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Busy lizzie play
Busy lizzie
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Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Impatiens walleriana
Also known as : Japanese Balsam, Sultan's balsam, Balsam
The long-lasting blooms of busy lizzie are a riot of color. The flowers generally range from vibrant purple to orange. Some of the flowers are used for hair coloring and dyes. Its genus name, Impatiens, comes from the word "impatiens" or "impatient" in Latin because the seed pods are often in a rush to open up.
Water
Water
Twice per week
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Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
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care guide

Care Guide for Busy lizzie

Watering Care
Watering Care
Busy lizzie is a thirsty plant that needs plenty of water. A good guideline is to ensure that the undersoil is always kept moist. Waterlogging, however, can harm the plant, so a well-drained pot is necessary when growing in containers. In hot weather the leaves can be sprayed to prevent wilting, but try not to spray the flowers.
Details on Watering Care Watering Care
Fertilizing Care
Fertilizing Care
Busy lizzie is very sensitive to fertilizer, so care should be taken not to overfertilize. Using a good all-purpose, low-dose liquid fertilizer once every couple of weeks during the spring and summer growing season is adequate.
Details on Fertilizing Care Fertilizing Care
Pruning
Pruning
Trim the diseased, withered leaves once a month.
Details on Pruning Pruning
Soil Care
Soil Care
Loam, Neutral
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Repotting
Repotting
Needs excellent drainage in pots
Details on Repotting Repotting
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Busy lizzie
Water
Water
Twice per week
Sunlight
Sunlight
Partial sun
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 11
Planting Time
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
question

Questions About Busy lizzie

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
Fertilizing Fertilizing Fertilizing
What is the best way to water my Busy lizzie?
When watering the Busy lizzie, you should aim to use filtered water that is at room temperature. Filtered water is better for this plant, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to its health. The reason that the water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer is that the Busy lizzie comes from a warm environment, and cold water can be somewhat of a shock to its system. Also, you should avoid overhead watering for this plant, as it can cause foliage complications. Instead, simply apply your filtered room temperature water to the soil until the soil is entirely soaked. Soaking the soil can be very beneficial for this plant as it moistens the roots and helps them continue to spread through the soil and collect the nutrients they need.
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What should I do if I water my Busy lizzie too much or too little?
Both overwatering and underwatering will be detrimental to the health of your Busy lizzie, but overwatering is a far more common issue. When this species receives too much water, its stems and leaves may begin to wilt and turn from green to yellow. Overwatering over a prolonged period may also lead to diseases such as root rot, mold, and mildew, all of which can kill your plant. Underwatering is far less common for the Busy lizzie, as this plant has decent drought tolerance. However, underwatering remains a possibility, and when it occurs, you can expect to find that the leaves of your Busy lizzie have become brittle and brown.
It is crucial that you notice the signs of overwatering as soon as possible when caring for your Busy lizzie. Some of the diseases that arise from overwatering, such as root rot, may not be correctable if you wait too long. If you see early signs of overwatering, you should reduce your watering schedule immediately. You may also want to assess the quality of soil in which your Busy lizzie grows. If you find that the soil drains very poorly, you should replace it immediately with a loose, well-draining potting mix. On the other hand, if you find signs that your Busy lizzie is receiving too little water, all you need to do is water more regularly until those signs have subsided.
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How often should I water my Busy lizzie?
If your plant is in a pot. The most precise way to decide whether your Busy lizzie needs water is to plunge your finger into the soil. If you notice that the first two to three inches of soil have become dry, it is time to add some water.
If you grow your Busy lizzie outdoors in the ground, you can use a similar method to test the soil. Again, when you find that the first few inches of soil have dried out, it is time to add water. During the spring and early fall, this method will often lead you to water this plant about once every week. When extremely hot weather arrives, you may need to increase your watering frequency to about twice or more per week. With that said, mature, well-established the Busy lizzie can show an admirable ability to withstand drought.
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How much water does my Busy lizzie need?
When it comes time to water your Busy lizzie, you should not be shy about how much water you give. With the first two to three inches of soil dry, this plant will appreciate a long and thorough watering. Supply enough water to soak the soil entirely. The amount of water you add should be enough to cause excess water to flow through the drainage holes at the bottom of your pot. If you don’t see excess water draining from the pot, you have likely underwatered your plant. But do not let the water accumulate inside the soil, which will be very dangerous to the plant as well. Alternatively, a lack of water draining through the pot could indicate poorly draining soils, which is detrimental to the health of this plant and should be avoided. If the plant is outside, 1 inch of rain per week will be sufficient.
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How should I water my Busy lizzie at different growth stages?
The water needs of the Busy lizzie can change depending on growth stages as well. For example, when your Busy lizzie is in the first few years of its life, or if you have just transplanted it to a new growing location, you will need to give more water than usual. During both of those stages, your Busy lizzie will put a lot of energy towards sprouting new roots that will then support future growth. For those roots to perform their best, they need a bit more moisture than they would at a more mature phase. After a few seasons, your Busy lizzie will need much less water. Another growth stage in which this plant may need more water is during the bloom period. Flower development can make use of a significant amount of moisture, which is why you might need to give your Busy lizzie more water at this time.
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How should I water my Busy lizzie through the seasons?
The Busy lizzie will have its highest water needs during the hottest months of the year. During the height of summer, you may need to give this plant water more than once per week, depending on how fast the soil dries out. The opposite is true during the winter. In winter, your plant will enter a dormant phase, in which it will need far less water than usual. In fact, you may not need to water this plant at all during the winter months. However, if you do water during winter, you should not do so more than about once per month. Watering too much at this time will make it more likely that your Busy lizzie will contract a disease.
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What's the difference between watering my Busy lizzie indoors and outdoors?
It is most common to grow the Busy lizzie indoors for any gardener that does not live in temperate and tropical regions. Those gardeners should consider the fact that soil in a container can dry out a bit faster than ground soil. Also, the presence of drying elements such as air conditioning units can cause your Busy lizzie to need water on a more frequent basis as well. if you planted it outside. When that is the case, it’s likely you won’t need to water your Busy lizzie very much at all. If you receive rainfall on a regular basis, that may be enough to keep your plant alive. Alternatively, those who grow this plant inside will need to water it more often, as allowing rainwater to soak the soil will not be an option.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Busy lizzie

Attributes of Busy lizzie

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer, Fall, Early winter
Harvest Time
Spring
Plant Height
15 cm to 60 cm
Spread
30 cm to 91 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2 cm to 5 cm
Flower Color
White
Red
Orange
Pink
Purple
Mauve
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer, Fall

Name story

Busy lizzie
Its beautiful flowers have attracted countless people's attention. Not only that the flowers are beautiful, but also that it blossoms continuously from summer to autumn. It seems like it is so busy blossoming that it is given the name busy Lizzie.

Symbolism

Motherly love

Usages

Artistic Value
There are many Chinese poems and historical documents recording the beauty of impatiens.
Garden Use
A popular bedding plant, the busy lizzie is cherished for its wide variety of bicolored and double flowers. It grows very well in shade and cottage gardens. An old-fashioned yet classic pairing is with Azaleas, however other companion plants such as Daphne, Boxwood, Holly, and Camellia do well with the busy lizzie as well.

Scientific Classification of Busy lizzie

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Busy lizzie

Common issues for Busy lizzie based on 10 million real cases
Brown blotch
Brown blotch Brown blotch
Brown blotch
Brown spot is a common fungal disease caused by Alternaria alternata, severely impacting Busy lizzie's vitality. It manifests as brown leaf spots and can lead to significant defoliation & plant death if untreated.
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common plant disease affecting numerous plant species, including Busy lizzie. The disease attacks the roots, leading to wilting, yellowing, and eventually plant death. Both biotic and abiotic factors can cause Leaf rot, requiring different management strategies.
Wilting
Wilting Wilting
Wilting
Wilting in Busy lizzie is a distressing disease causing a droop in the plant's foliage due to inadequate water or certain bacteria. This condition can affect the plant's overall health, leading to decreased growth, yellowing leaves, or even plant death if left untreated.
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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plant poor
Brown blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
What is Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
Brown spot is a common fungal disease caused by Alternaria alternata, severely impacting Busy lizzie's vitality. It manifests as brown leaf spots and can lead to significant defoliation & plant death if untreated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Brown or black spots appear initially on leaves, expanding to plant's entirety. As severity increases, leaf yellowing, defoliation, stunt growth, and plant death may occur if not immediately addressed.
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Fungal pathogen
Alternaria alternata, a saprophytic fungus favoring warm and moist conditions.
2
Environmental factors
Overwatering, poor ventilation, and high humidity aids in rapid disease spread.
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Non pesticide
Sanitation: Regularly remove and dispose of infected leaves and plants.

Ventilation: Ensuring good air circulation around plants to reduce moisture levels.

Fungicides: Natural copper or sulfur-based fungicides can inhibit fungal growth.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Systematic fungicides like mancozeb & propiconazole effectively control the disease.

Spraying Schedule: Regular preventative spraying program, especially during favorable disease conditions.
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plant poor
Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
Leaf rot is a common plant disease affecting numerous plant species, including Busy lizzie. The disease attacks the roots, leading to wilting, yellowing, and eventually plant death. Both biotic and abiotic factors can cause Leaf rot, requiring different management strategies.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Busy lizzie with leaf rot exhibit wilted, yellowish leaves, stunted growth, and root discoloration. In advanced stages, the root system may rot entirely, leading to plant death. Brownish or blackish specks may also appear on the stem near the soil level.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Fungi
Leaf rot is primarily caused by fungi such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia or Fusarium, which thrive in wet, improper drainage conditions.
2
Waterlogging
Excessive watering or poor soil drainage provide an ideal environment for these pathogens.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Non pesticide
Proper Watering: Avoid overwatering Busy lizzie and ensure plants are drained correctly to reduce the susceptibility to fungal infection.

Remove Infected Plants: Infected plants should be separated to prevent the spread of the fungus to healthy plants.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Apply commercial fungicides as per the manufacturer's instructions, primarily if the infection is severe. Always wear appropriate protection while handling these chemicals.
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Wilting
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
What is Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
Wilting in Busy lizzie is a distressing disease causing a droop in the plant's foliage due to inadequate water or certain bacteria. This condition can affect the plant's overall health, leading to decreased growth, yellowing leaves, or even plant death if left untreated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The main symptom of wilting in Busy lizzie encompasses a visible droop or sag in the plant's leaves, indicating inadequate hydration. Additionally, leaf yellowing, stunted growth, and browning often accompany this main symptom.
What Causes Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
What Causes Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Bacteria
The disease is primarily caused by a bacterium, such as Pseudomonas solanacearum, which blocks the plant's water-carrying vessels.
2
Drought
Long periods without water can cause wilting due to dehydration of the plant tissues.
3
Pathogen
Some viral, fungal, and other pathogens can also trigger wilting.
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Non pesticide
Regular watering: Ensuring that the Busy lizzie receives consistent and sufficient watering helps in preventing and curing wilting.

Proper aeration: For the bacterial cause, improving soil drainage to avoid waterlogging, which supports bacterial growth, could help.
2
Pesticide
Anti-bacterial treatments: If the wilting is due to bacterial infections, anti-bacterial pesticides could be used.

Insecticides: Pests or insects, which carry the disease, can be controlled by using appropriate insecticides.
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Leaf beetles
plant poor
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
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Wilting after blooming
plant poor
Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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distribution

Distribution of Busy lizzie

Habitat of Busy lizzie

Damp and shady situations, roadsides, disturbed sites, waste areas in populated areas
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Busy lizzie

Busy lizzie grows natively from Southeast Kenya down to South Africa in and alongside forests, beside streams, and in areas of moisture and shade. While it is a popular garden plant, it's considered invasive in many regions, including some parts of Asia, South America, and Australia.
distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Busy Lizzie Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Common Pests & Diseases
Explore More
Water
Twice per week
Busy lizzie hails from regions in East Africa, including Kenya and Tanzania. It thrives in tropical and subtropical climates, where it can be found in forests, wet meadows, and along riverbanks. The high humidity levels and frequent rainfall in its native environment indicate that busy lizzie prefers moist soil. Watering this plant regularly is crucial to replicate its natural habitat, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Watering Techniques
Lighting
Partial sun
Busy lizzie values areas that offer an optimal mix of sun and shade, demonstrating resilience under a broad canopy cover or unobstructed sunlight conditions. Its origin environment reflects this adaptability. Inadequate or excessive sun exposure could hinder its growth and vibrant bloom display.
Best Sunlight Practices
Temperature
5 - 43 ℃
The busy lizzie prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). In its native growth environment, it thrives in tropical and subtropical regions. To adjust to temperature changes in different seasons, move the plant to a cooler location during peak summer heat.
Temp for Healthy Growth
Transplant
6-12 inches
For the best growth of busy lizzie, choose mid spring to late spring or mid fall to late fall as ideal transplanting seasons. This allows the plant to establish roots more efficiently. Ensure a well-draining, partially-shaded location for optimal transplant success. Remember to handle the delicate root system with care during transplant!
Transplant Techniques
Pruning
Spring, Summer, Autumn
A popular bedding plant, busy lizzie thrives with regular deadheading to encourage blooming and light trimming to maintain shape. Key pruning is best undertaken from early spring to late fall, removing wilted flowers and leggy stems to promote healthy growth and airflow. Pruning this species results in a bushier appearance and extended flowering periods, ensuring gardeners enjoy vibrant displays throughout the growing season.
Pruning techniques
Brown blotch
Brown spot is a common fungal disease caused by Alternaria alternata, severely impacting Busy lizzie's vitality. It manifests as brown leaf spots and can lead to significant defoliation & plant death if untreated.
Learn More About the Disease
Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common plant disease affecting numerous plant species, including Busy lizzie. The disease attacks the roots, leading to wilting, yellowing, and eventually plant death. Both biotic and abiotic factors can cause Leaf rot, requiring different management strategies.
Learn More About the Disease
Wilting
Wilting in Busy lizzie is a distressing disease causing a droop in the plant's foliage due to inadequate water or certain bacteria. This condition can affect the plant's overall health, leading to decreased growth, yellowing leaves, or even plant death if left untreated.
Learn More About the Disease
Feng shui direction
South
Busy lizzie can be a harmonizing addition to South-facing spaces, as it represents the element of Wood. South is ruled by the Fire element in Feng Shui, and Wood helps to fuel and support Fire's growth, creating a positive and balanced energy flow in the environment.
Fengshui Details
other_plant

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Flame violet
Flame violet
A flame violet (Episcia cupreata) plant is widely cultivated and desired for its cheerful-looking flowers and variegated green and coppery leaves. The genus name, Episcia, comes from the Greek word that means ‘shaded’; referring to its usual habitat. This plant crawls and trails and is ideal for a hanging basket, container, and ground cover.
Brush cherry
Brush cherry
Brush cherry (Syzygium paniculatum) is a plant species native to New South Wales, Australia. Brush cherry produces edible fruits that are similar to red grapes. This species is also referred to as native myrtle. The edible fruits of this species are known for their sour apple flavor, and are often made into jams.
Divaricate typhonium
Divaricate typhonium
The Typhonium blumei, or divaricate typhonium, is native to eastern and southern Asia, including Australia and New Guinea. The species has long, vaguely-heart-shaped leaves and is a habitat generalist, growing in fields and disturbed habitats. Though not particularly showy, the species may sometimes be grown as an ornamental.
Garden pea
Garden pea
The garden pea (Pisum sativum) is an annual vegetable that makes a hardy, cold weather crop. Also known as the green pea or garden pea, it grows from 30 to 46 cm tall. Peapods form after the first year, and both peas and pods are edible and can be eaten cooked or raw. Excellent in stir-fry, tender tips, called pea shoots, are also edible.
Black pepper
Black pepper
Black pepper is a climbing vine grown for its fruit, peppercorn, which is often dried and used as a spice and condiment. It is the most traded spice in the world and one of the most commonly used spices in cuisines worldwide. Black peppercorns were discovered inserted in Ramesses II's nostrils as part of his mummification rites immediately after his death.
Asian goldenrod
Asian goldenrod
Asian goldenrod (Solidago decurrens) is a member of the sunflower family native to southern and eastern Asia. Unlike its oversized relative, asian goldenrod blooms masses of tiny flowers in the summer and fall. Some variants lose their lower leaves when they bloom.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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Busy lizzie play
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie
Impatiens walleriana
Also known as: Japanese Balsam, Sultan's balsam, Balsam
The long-lasting blooms of busy lizzie are a riot of color. The flowers generally range from vibrant purple to orange. Some of the flowers are used for hair coloring and dyes. Its genus name, Impatiens, comes from the word "impatiens" or "impatient" in Latin because the seed pods are often in a rush to open up.
Water
Water
Twice per week
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Questions About Busy lizzie

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Key Facts About Busy lizzie

Attributes of Busy lizzie

Lifespan
Perennial, Annual
Plant Type
Herb
Planting Time
Late spring, Summer, Early fall
Bloom Time
Mid spring, Late spring, Summer, Fall, Early winter
Harvest Time
Spring
Plant Height
15 cm to 60 cm
Spread
30 cm to 91 cm
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
2 cm to 5 cm
Flower Color
White
Red
Orange
Pink
Purple
Mauve
Dormancy
Non-dormant
Leaf type
Deciduous
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
Growth Season
Spring, Summer, Fall
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Name story

Busy lizzie
Its beautiful flowers have attracted countless people's attention. Not only that the flowers are beautiful, but also that it blossoms continuously from summer to autumn. It seems like it is so busy blossoming that it is given the name busy Lizzie.

Symbolism

Motherly love

Usages

Artistic Value
There are many Chinese poems and historical documents recording the beauty of impatiens.
Garden Use
A popular bedding plant, the busy lizzie is cherished for its wide variety of bicolored and double flowers. It grows very well in shade and cottage gardens. An old-fashioned yet classic pairing is with Azaleas, however other companion plants such as Daphne, Boxwood, Holly, and Camellia do well with the busy lizzie as well.

Scientific Classification of Busy lizzie

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Busy lizzie

Common issues for Busy lizzie based on 10 million real cases
Brown blotch
Brown blotch Brown blotch Brown blotch
Brown spot is a common fungal disease caused by Alternaria alternata, severely impacting Busy lizzie's vitality. It manifests as brown leaf spots and can lead to significant defoliation & plant death if untreated.
Learn More About the Brown blotch more
Leaf rot
Leaf rot Leaf rot Leaf rot
Leaf rot is a common plant disease affecting numerous plant species, including Busy lizzie. The disease attacks the roots, leading to wilting, yellowing, and eventually plant death. Both biotic and abiotic factors can cause Leaf rot, requiring different management strategies.
Learn More About the Leaf rot more
Wilting
Wilting Wilting Wilting
Wilting in Busy lizzie is a distressing disease causing a droop in the plant's foliage due to inadequate water or certain bacteria. This condition can affect the plant's overall health, leading to decreased growth, yellowing leaves, or even plant death if left untreated.
Learn More About the Wilting more
Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles Leaf beetles Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Solutions: For less serious cases: Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread. To treat more serious infestations: Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Learn More About the Leaf beetles more
Wilting after blooming
Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Solutions: Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water. Water according to recommendations for each plant's species. Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too. Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants. Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
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Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Brown blotch
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
What is Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
Brown spot is a common fungal disease caused by Alternaria alternata, severely impacting Busy lizzie's vitality. It manifests as brown leaf spots and can lead to significant defoliation & plant death if untreated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Brown or black spots appear initially on leaves, expanding to plant's entirety. As severity increases, leaf yellowing, defoliation, stunt growth, and plant death may occur if not immediately addressed.
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
What Causes Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Fungal pathogen
Alternaria alternata, a saprophytic fungus favoring warm and moist conditions.
2
Environmental factors
Overwatering, poor ventilation, and high humidity aids in rapid disease spread.
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
How to Treat Brown blotch Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Non pesticide
Sanitation: Regularly remove and dispose of infected leaves and plants.

Ventilation: Ensuring good air circulation around plants to reduce moisture levels.

Fungicides: Natural copper or sulfur-based fungicides can inhibit fungal growth.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Systematic fungicides like mancozeb & propiconazole effectively control the disease.

Spraying Schedule: Regular preventative spraying program, especially during favorable disease conditions.
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Leaf rot
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
What is Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
Leaf rot is a common plant disease affecting numerous plant species, including Busy lizzie. The disease attacks the roots, leading to wilting, yellowing, and eventually plant death. Both biotic and abiotic factors can cause Leaf rot, requiring different management strategies.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Busy lizzie with leaf rot exhibit wilted, yellowish leaves, stunted growth, and root discoloration. In advanced stages, the root system may rot entirely, leading to plant death. Brownish or blackish specks may also appear on the stem near the soil level.
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
What Causes Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Fungi
Leaf rot is primarily caused by fungi such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia or Fusarium, which thrive in wet, improper drainage conditions.
2
Waterlogging
Excessive watering or poor soil drainage provide an ideal environment for these pathogens.
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
How to Treat Leaf rot Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Non pesticide
Proper Watering: Avoid overwatering Busy lizzie and ensure plants are drained correctly to reduce the susceptibility to fungal infection.

Remove Infected Plants: Infected plants should be separated to prevent the spread of the fungus to healthy plants.
2
Pesticide
Fungicides: Apply commercial fungicides as per the manufacturer's instructions, primarily if the infection is severe. Always wear appropriate protection while handling these chemicals.
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Wilting
Overview
Symptom
Causes
Treatment
Prevention
Active Period
What is Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
What is Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
Wilting in Busy lizzie is a distressing disease causing a droop in the plant's foliage due to inadequate water or certain bacteria. This condition can affect the plant's overall health, leading to decreased growth, yellowing leaves, or even plant death if left untreated.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The main symptom of wilting in Busy lizzie encompasses a visible droop or sag in the plant's leaves, indicating inadequate hydration. Additionally, leaf yellowing, stunted growth, and browning often accompany this main symptom.
What Causes Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
What Causes Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Bacteria
The disease is primarily caused by a bacterium, such as Pseudomonas solanacearum, which blocks the plant's water-carrying vessels.
2
Drought
Long periods without water can cause wilting due to dehydration of the plant tissues.
3
Pathogen
Some viral, fungal, and other pathogens can also trigger wilting.
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
How to Treat Wilting Disease on Busy lizzie?
1
Non pesticide
Regular watering: Ensuring that the Busy lizzie receives consistent and sufficient watering helps in preventing and curing wilting.

Proper aeration: For the bacterial cause, improving soil drainage to avoid waterlogging, which supports bacterial growth, could help.
2
Pesticide
Anti-bacterial treatments: If the wilting is due to bacterial infections, anti-bacterial pesticides could be used.

Insecticides: Pests or insects, which carry the disease, can be controlled by using appropriate insecticides.
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Leaf beetles
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Leaf beetles
Leaf beetles are a class of colored insects 1 to 2 cm in size. They gnaw on leaves and petals resulting in small, round holes scattered over the surface.
Overview
Overview
Leaf beetles range in size from 1.5 mm to 2 cm. Both adult beetles and their larvae eat the leaves of many different types of plants. There are over 35,000 different species of leaf beetles, in a variety of colors including gold, green, yellow-striped, and red striped. Some of these have been mistaken for ladybirds because of their shape and coloring. They can be oval, round, or elongated in shape. These insect pests are most active in spring and summer.
If not controlled, leaf beetles can do a lot of damage to vegetable crops and ornamental plants. They feed on the leaves, flowers, stems, roots, and fruits of different plants. They can fly, which means it's easy for them to move from one plant to another. Some species of leaf beetles only target one specific crop, while others will target many different types of plants. Although a lot of the damage that they cause is cosmetic, an infestation can weaken a plant and leave it prone to other more problematic diseases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first signs of a leaf beetles infestation are small visible holes in leaves. Leaves then become discolored and dark beetle droppings can be seen. As the leaves turn yellow and brown, they will drop off the plant onto the ground. Some leaves will appear skeletonized with only the veins still remaining.
Infestation begins in spring, when the adult beetles emerge from the soil and lay their eggs on the leaves of plants. When these eggs hatch, the young nymphs start munching on the leaves as they grow up. Once leaf beetles are large and mature, they'll fall to the ground and pupate in the soil over winter before starting the cycle all over again.
Leaf beetles also eat holes in fruits and vegetables. These can be seen as small round holes that sometimes have a larger brown area surrounding them.
Solutions
Solutions
For less serious cases:
  1. Remove beetles, nymphs, and eggs. Remove all life stages of the beetles and kill them by placing them in a bucket of warm, soapy water. This can be done more easily by placing the bucket under affected leaves and shaking the plant. This method is most effective in the afternoon when leaf beetles are more active. Always dispose of insects in a sealed bag or container to avoid escape and spread.
To treat more serious infestations:
  1. Apply organic insecticides. Use naturally-derived insecticides before moving on to synthetic insecticides. Neem oil and pyrethrum are naturally-derived insecticides that should be applied following label instructions.
  2. Apply synthetic insecticides. Examples of insecticides effective for leaf beetles include carbaryl, permethrin, and bifenthrin. Apply insecticides according to label instructions.
Prevention
Prevention
To prevent infestations of leaf beetles, follow these practices.
  1. Regularly check for beetles. To prevent large pest infestations, be proactive about frequently checking plants for pests and removing them quickly.
  2. Clear debris. Clear weeds and debris to remove areas where these beetles may overwinter and hide.
  3. Attract natural predators. Birds and other insects, such as wasps and ladybugs, are effective natural predators of leaf beetles. Encourage them to visit by including a diverse array of plants to provide habitat and food. Also, avoid applying broad-spectrum herbicides that can harm and kill beneficial insects.
  4. Plant aromatic herbs like mint, garlic, or rosemary, as these can repel leaf beetles.
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Wilting after blooming
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Wilting after blooming
Flowers may wither for a variety of reasons.
Overview
Overview
Wilting after blooming is sometimes a natural aging process of the flower, while other times it may indicate a problem. Orchids, for example, can bloom for anywhere from two weeks to three months, so wilting after a few days signals a problem for most varieties. This can happen to virtually any ornamental flowering plant, but those with shallow roots and limited tolerance for drought, full sun, and low humidity are more susceptible.
This is a common problem, and often has an easy fix. Sometimes, however, it is the result of more serious causes such as pests or disease of the root system.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
  • At first, flowers may look a little limp.
  • Petals may start to appear dried out and turn brown.
  • Eventually they may drop off the plant all together.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
Wilting blooms can be a sign of an unhealthy root system. Any condition that prevents the plant from absorbing enough water and nutrition can result in wilting blooms and sometimes other symptoms. If the plant doesn’t have enough water, it cannot maintain appropriate pressure within stems, leaves, and blooms, causing them to wilt.
This can result from physical damage – for example from root breakage during re-potting or attack by insects like cutworms. If you recently re-potted your plant, physical damage to the roots is a likely cause. If you see insects, they may be eating leaves, roots, or flowers. Fungal infections can also cause root rot and damage, preventing water and nutrient uptake.
Finally, wilting blooms can result simply from age. If no other symptoms are visible, it may simply signal the natural end of the flower’s lifespan. If it seems premature, this may be caused by environmental factors: water, humidity, light, or stress. Under-watering is a common cause. Similarly, plants adapted to high humidity dry out easily when humidity is low, like during winter or in dry climates. Too much light can also stress plants that need shade, causing blooms to wilt.
Solutions
Solutions
  • Check the soil or potting medium. Coarse textures can allow water to drain too rapidly, preventing the plant from taking up enough. If the soil and roots seem very dry, add sphagnum moss or other mediums that hold water.
  • Water according to recommendations for each plant's species.
  • Low humidity can be corrected by misting the plant regularly or placing it near a humidifier. Keeping it near other plants helps, too.
  • Keep the environment consistent in terms of temperature, humidity, and lighting. Keep it away from vents, heaters, and air conditioners, and avoid moving it to locations where it will experience a temperature shock. Hot, dry heat, and cold drafts are problematic for many plants.
  • Especially if the plant is outside, it could be experiencing heat or light stress. Try moving it to a shadier location.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Read up on moisture, light, and soil type preferences for each plant to avoid underwatering, incorrect light levels, or other conditions that can cause wilting blooms.
  • Avoid re-potting during the flowering period. This causes additional stress on the plants because they need to repair root damage and adapt to the new micro-environment, all of which can result in wilting.
  • One other potential cause is ethylene gas, a plant hormone related to ripening. Some fruits and vegetables emit ethylene, especially bananas. Apples, grapes, melons, avocados, and potatoes can also give it off, so keep flowering plants away from fresh produce.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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distribution

Distribution of Busy lizzie

Habitat of Busy lizzie

Damp and shady situations, roadsides, disturbed sites, waste areas in populated areas
Northern Hemisphere
South Hemisphere

Distribution Map of Busy lizzie

Busy lizzie grows natively from Southeast Kenya down to South Africa in and alongside forests, beside streams, and in areas of moisture and shade. While it is a popular garden plant, it's considered invasive in many regions, including some parts of Asia, South America, and Australia.
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Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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Busy Lizzie Watering Instructions
Busy lizzie hails from regions in East Africa, including Kenya and Tanzania. It thrives in tropical and subtropical climates, where it can be found in forests, wet meadows, and along riverbanks. The high humidity levels and frequent rainfall in its native environment indicate that busy lizzie prefers moist soil. Watering this plant regularly is crucial to replicate its natural habitat, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.
When Should I Water My Busy Lizzie?
Introduction
Timely watering is crucial for the health and growth of busy lizzie, ensuring appropriate hydration for nutrient transport and optimal physiological functions. Mismanagement of watering can result in stress that hinders the plant's vitality.
Soil Dryness
The most direct indicator busy lizzie requires water is when the top 1-2 inches of the potting mix feel dry to touch. As busy lizzie prefers a consistently moist but not waterlogged environment, refrain from waiting until the entirety of the soil is utterly dry.
Leaf Condition
Busy lizzie can reveal its hydration needs through its leaves. If the leaves appear to be drooping and lose their glossy texture, this is a clear sign that the plant is too dry and needs to be watered.
Reduced Flowering
Busy lizzie that receives insufficient water may respond by ceasing to flower. If you notice a substantial decrease in blooming despite proper light conditions, it might indicate that the plant needs more water.
Pot Weight
Another good sign is the weight of the pot. If the pot feels notably lighter than usual, it can signify that the soil has dried out, signaling a need for watering busy lizzie.
Underwatering Risks
Under-watering can lead to dehydration, reduced growth, and leaf curling and yellowing. In severe cases, it can result in the death of busy lizzie.
Overwatering Risks
Overwatering busy lizzie is as harmful as underwatering. It can cause root rot, foliage discoloration, and increased susceptibility to pests and diseases. Continual overwatering can lead to plant death.
Final Reminder
Remember, watering demands of busy lizzie can vary based on factors like growing location, pot size, and prevailing weather conditions. Always trust these signs more than a fixed watering schedule.
How Should I Water My Busy Lizzie?
Watering Requirements
Busy lizzie has specific watering needs and sensitivities that should be considered for optimal hydration. It prefers consistently moist soil but can be sensitive to overwatering.
Watering Technique
Bottom-watering is an effective method for watering busy lizzie. This technique involves placing the plant pot in a tray or saucer filled with water and allowing the roots to absorb water from the bottom up. It helps prevent water from sitting on the foliage and reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
Watering Can Type
When using a watering can, it is recommended to choose one with a narrow spout. This allows for targeted watering at the base of the plant, avoiding excessive wetting of the foliage.
Moisture Meter
Using a moisture meter can be beneficial for determining when busy lizzie needs watering. The meter can help gauge the moisture level in the soil, ensuring proper hydration without under- or overwatering.
Avoid Overhead Watering
To prevent water from settling on the leaves, it is best to avoid overhead watering methods such as misting or using a sprinkler. Directing water towards the soil and roots will help maintain optimal hydration.
Watering Frequency
Busy lizzie should be watered when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. The frequency may vary depending on factors such as temperature, humidity, and the specific moisture needs of the plant. It is important to monitor the soil moisture level regularly and adjust the watering schedule accordingly.
How Much Water Does Busy Lizzie Really Need?
Natural Habitat Hydration Needs
Busy lizzie is native to eastern Africa, particularly Kenya and Mozambique, where it thrives in a moderately humid, tropical climate. It is used to seasonal rainfall and accessing soil moisture rather than frequent watering, contributing to its tolerance for a decent range of watering conditions.
Pot Size-Root Depth-Plant Size Correlation
Given their shallow root structure, busy lizzie doesn't need deep pots. Pot size will determine the water quantity as too much water can lead to root rot. Plant size directly correlates with the amount of water required. Bigger busy lizzie plants having larger leaf surfaces will lose more water and thereby need more than smaller ones.
Optimal Water Quantity
For a regular-sized busy lizzie, consider a pot with a 10-12 inch diameter. Fill it with a well-draining soil mixture making sure the root ball is level with the surface. Water the busy lizzie thoroughly, allowing the plant to absorb enough liquid before it starts draining from the bottom of the pot. If possible, use tepid, rather than cold water.
Water Requirement Indicators
When busy lizzie is sufficiently watered, its leaves should appear vibrant and firm. If the plant is under-watered, the leaves will look wilted, start to curl, and eventually drop. Overwatering is potentially more dangerous, leading to yellowing leaves and a higher risk of diseases like root rot.
Watering Risks
Under-watering can stress busy lizzie and slow its growth, whereas overwatering can lead to serious diseases and even plant death. It's therefore important to ensure busy lizzie has the right amount of water – neither too little to make it dehydrated, nor too much to turn it susceptible to diseases.
How Often Should I Water Busy Lizzie?
Twice per week
Watering Frequency
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Just like people, each plant has its own preferences and needs. Devote time to understanding your plants so you can nurture them properly. Observe your plants attentively, learning from their growth patterns, and becoming more in tune with their needs as you grow together. Keep a watchful eye on new plants and seedlings, as they are sensitive to both overwatering and underwatering. Shower them with gentle love and attention, fostering their growth and strength. Let the rhythm of your local climate guide your watering habits, adapting your schedule to the changing weather and the needs of your plants.
What Kind of Water is Best for Busy Lizzie?
Water Type Preference
Busy lizzie grows well in distilled or rainwater, both of which are typically free from harmful minerals and chemicals. Even though tap water is generally acceptable, it can contain elements like chlorine and fluoride that might have a negative impact on the plant over time.
Chlorine Sensitivity
Busy lizzie is moderately sensitive to chlorine. Generally, it's a good idea to let tap water sit out for 24 to 48 hours to enable the chlorine to evaporate before using it for watering. And, if possible, try to use a water source that lacks chlorine altogether.
Fluoride Sensitivity
Busy lizzie, while not excessively sensitive to fluoride, could still be negatively affected by high concentrations. This is usually present in tap water, so again, rainwater or distilled water could be a better choice if available.
Mineral Sensitivity
Busy lizzie might experience issues with heavily mineralized water ('hard' water), which could result in leaf burn. Light to moderately-hard water could be used but avoid overly hard water if possible.
Water Treatment
If only tap water is available, ensure that it is left to sit for at least 24 hours before use to let harmful elements like chlorine, and to a less extent, fluoride, dissipate. Water filters could also be used to minimize potentially harmful contaminants.
Water Temperature Preference
Busy lizzie prefers water at room temperature. Avoid using water that is too cold or hot as it may shock the plant's roots and lead to health issues.
Contextual Note
Always remember that water quality is just one aspect of busy lizzie's care. Proper lighting, suitable temperature, and nutrient-rich soil are also very important for its growth.
How Do Busy Lizzie's Watering Needs Change with the Seasons?
How to Water busy lizzie in Spring?
In spring, the watering needs for busy lizzie increase as the plant comes out of its wintertime dormancy and begins to germinate. The increased sunlight and warm temperatures prompt active growth of shoots and flowers. It's important to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Water thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry to touch. Be cautious not to overwater which can lead to root rot.
How to Water busy lizzie in Summer?
During the peak of summer, busy lizzie is in its active flowering phase and requires plenty of moisture. Many locations grapple with hot, dry climates in summer, which can dry out plants quickly. Check busy lizzie's soil daily for dryness and provide consistent watering to help busy lizzie retain its vitality. However, remember to ensure good drainage to avoid water standing in the pot, which could potentially harm the plant's roots.
How to Water busy lizzie in Autumn?
As the growth cycle of busy lizzie starts slowing down in autumn due to cooler temperatures and reduced daylight, water less frequently than during the summer. Water moderately, allowing the top half inch of soil to dry out between waterings. This helps prepare the plant for its rest period during winter and prevent potential problems associated with overwatering.
How to Water busy lizzie in Winter?
Busy lizzie enters a period of dormancy in winter, needing less water. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. But, remember that indoor heating systems can dry out the air, hence potentially needing significant watering if the plant's environment becomes too dry.
What Expert Tips Can Enhance Busy Lizzie Watering Routine?
Watering Techniques
When watering busy lizzie, it's best to use a watering can or a hose with a gentle spray nozzle to ensure even distribution of water. Avoid using high-pressure sprays that can damage the delicate foliage.
Watering Frequency
It's important to let the top inch of soil dry out between waterings for busy lizzie. Watering too frequently can lead to root rot. Stick your finger into the soil to a depth of 1-2 inches to check for moisture before watering.
Drip Irrigation
Consider using drip irrigation for busy lizzie to provide a slow, consistent water supply directly to the root zone. This can help prevent over-watering and reduce the risk of fungal diseases.
Mulching
Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, around the base of busy lizzie. This helps retain moisture in the soil, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses weed growth.
Avoid Overhead Watering
It's best to avoid watering busy lizzie from above, as this can lead to leaf spot diseases. Instead, focus the water directly on the soil around the base of the plant.
Signs of Thirst
When busy lizzie is thirsty, the leaves may droop and lose their vibrant color. However, they will bounce back quickly after watering. Monitor the plant closely and water as soon as you notice these signs.
Signs of Over-Watering
Over-watering busy lizzie can cause yellowing leaves, wilting despite wet soil, and a foul odor due to root rot. If you suspect over-watering, allow the soil to dry out before watering again.
Watering in Special Conditions
During a heatwave, busy lizzie may require more frequent watering to cope with increased evaporation. However, always ensure the soil doesn't become waterlogged. In periods of extended rain, reduce watering frequency to avoid waterlogged soil and prevent root rot. If busy lizzie is stressed due to extreme temperatures or other factors, provide extra water and shade.
Soil Moisture Testing
To assess busy lizzie's deeper soil moisture needs, use a moisture meter. Insert it into the soil to get an accurate reading of moisture levels beyond the surface. This can help prevent over or under-watering.
Container Watering
If growing busy lizzie in a container, make sure it has proper drainage holes to prevent waterlogged roots. Water thoroughly until water drains out of the bottom, and empty any excess water from the saucer or tray to avoid sitting water.
Common Mistake
A common mistake when watering busy lizzie is using a sprinkler or sprinkling can instead of directly watering the soil. This can lead to fungal issues and uneven water distribution. Always water at the base of the plant.
Considering Hydroponics? How to Manage a Water-Grown Busy Lizzie?
Overview
Hydroponics is a soil-less cultivation method where plants receive nutrient-rich water instead of drawing nutrients from soil. This method has notable benefits for growing busy lizzie, including better control over nutrient supply, faster growth, and less susceptibility to soil-borne diseases. Because busy lizzie prefers moist conditions, hydroponics can provide an optimal environment, minimizing the risk of over or under watering.
Best Hydroponic System
For busy lizzie, the deep water culture (DWC) system is recommended. This is mainly due to busy lizzie's preference for constant moisture, which DWC can offer by keeping the roots submerged in nutrient-rich water with oxygen added by an air stone. Also, DWC provides easy access for monitoring plant health, a crucial aspect for busy lizzie growth.
Nutrient Solution
Busy lizzie prefers a balanced nutrient solution with a pH of 5.8-6.2 for optimal growth. The plant can thrive on a general-purpose nutrient solution suitable for flowering plants. Changes need to be made every 2-3 weeks as busy lizzie is a relatively fast grower. Furthermore, regular measurement of TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) and pH is important for maintaining the overall health of the plant.
Challenges
Busy lizzie is susceptible to root rot if the DWC system is not properly maintained. Ensuring the water has sufficient oxygen and the temperature doesn't exceed 70 degrees Fahrenheit can help prevent this. Another challenge is light management, as overexposure to high-intensity light can harm the plant. Busy lizzie does finely under moderate LED lighting.
Plant Health Monitoring
Observing leaf color can be a reliable way to monitor busy lizzie's health. In hydroponics, paler leaves may indicate nutrient deficiency while yellowing might imply overwatering. Periodically checking root health, manifested as white, firm roots, is also vital. Unlike soil plants, wilting in busy lizzie under hydroponics might imply root-health issues instead of under watering.
Environmental Adjustments
The DWC water temperature ideally should be kept between 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit for busy lizzie; too high temperature can encourage root rot. During busy lizzie's flowering stage, phosphorus and potassium levels may need to be increased in the solution, mirroring the plant's natural soil needs. And, since the plant prefers lower light intensity, adjustments might be required depending on the initial conditions.
Important Symptoms
Overwatering Symptoms of Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie is more susceptible to developing disease symptoms when overwatered because it prefers a soil environment with moderate humidity. Symptoms of overwatering include yellowing leaves, brown or black spots, root rot...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Brown or black spots
Excessive watering can damage the plant's root system, making it vulnerable to fungal infections. The plant may develop dark brown to black spots that spread upwards from the lower leaves which are usually the first to be affected.
Root rot
Excess water in the soil can lead to the growth of harmful fungi and bacteria, causing the roots to rot and eventually kill the plant.
Soft or mushy stems
Excess water can cause stems to become soft and mushy, as the cells become waterlogged and lose their structural integrity.
Increased susceptibility diseases
Overwatering plants may become more susceptible and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Solutions
1. Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness. Wait for soil to dry before watering.2. Increase soil aeration by loosening surface and gently stirring with a wooden stick or chopstick.3. Optimize environment with good ventilation and warmth to enhance water evaporation and prevent overwatering.
Underwatering Symptoms of Busy lizzie
Busy lizzie is more susceptible to plant health issues when lacking watering, as it can only tolerate short periods of drought. Symptoms of dehydration include wilting, leaf curling, yellowing leaves...
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Wilting
Due to the dry soil and insufficient water absorption by the roots, the leaves of the plant will appear limp, droopy, and lose vitality.
Leaf curling
Leaves may curl inward or downward as they attempt to conserve water and minimize water loss through transpiration.
Increased susceptibility to pests and diseases
Underwatered plants may become more susceptible to pests and diseases as their overall health declines, weakening their natural defenses.
Dying plant
If underwatering continues for an extended period, the plant may ultimately die as a result of severe water stress and an inability to carry out essential functions.
Solutions
1. Thoroughly saturate soil with slow ring watering to ensure uniform and sufficient moisture for plants. 2. Increase air humidity with water trays or misting to slow leaf water evaporation. 3. Watering according to the recommended frequency.Adjust watering frequency based on seasons and soil dryness.
Watering Troubleshooting for Busy Lizzie
Why are the leaves of my busy lizzie turning yellow?
Yellowing leaves on busy lizzie is typically a sign of overwatering. This is because excess water can suffocate the roots, preventing them from absorbing necessary nutrients. To solve this issue, reduce your watering frequency and ensure the plant is planted in well-draining soil to prevent water logging. Lastly, always check the soil's moisture levels before watering, it should be dry to the touch.
Why is my busy lizzie wilting despite frequent watering?
Frequent watering can lead to root rot, a common problem for busy lizzie when it gets too much water. The plant wilts as the roots are unable to function properly. To recover your plant, reduce your watering frequency and consider repotting your plant in fresh, well-draining soil. Monitor your plant carefully to make sure it shows signs of recovery and adjust the watering schedule accordingly.
The flowers of my busy lizzie are dropping off. Could this be due to incorrect watering?
Yes, flower drop in busy lizzie is often linked to inconsistent watering — either too much or too little. Maintain a consistent watering plan, ensuring the plant never completely dries out nor becomes water-logged. Furthermore, water your busy lizzie at the soil level to avoid getting the flowers wet, which could also result in flower drop.
Why are the lower leaves of my busy lizzie turning brown and falling off?
Brown lower leaves could indicate underwatering. While busy lizzie prefers their soil to dry slightly between waterings, too little water can cause the plant to dry out, resulting in brown leaves. Water your plant more frequently, keeping the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and ensure it's in a location with appropriate light and temperature conditions.
My busy lizzie plant's leaves are curling. Could my watering habits be to blame?
Yes, curling leaves in the busy lizzie are generally a sign of underwatering or overwatering. Assess the soil moisture before watering. If it's excessively dry, increase your watering frequency. If it's overly wet, let the soil dry out before watering again. Regular and balanced watering helps maintain healthy growth.
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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
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Requirements
Partial sun
Ideal
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Full sun, Full shade
Tolerance
Above 6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
Busy lizzie values areas that offer an optimal mix of sun and shade, demonstrating resilience under a broad canopy cover or unobstructed sunlight conditions. Its origin environment reflects this adaptability. Inadequate or excessive sun exposure could hinder its growth and vibrant bloom display.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Busy lizzie is a versatile plant that thrives in partial sunlight but can tolerate full sunlight in cooler weather. Although symptoms of light deficiency may not be easily noticeable, inadequate light conditions can affect their growth indoors.
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Impact on flowering and fruiting
Your plant may not show obvious abnormalities due to insufficient sunlight, but it can have adverse effects on future flowering and fruiting.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your busy lizzie may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Solutions
1. To optimize plant growth, shift them to increasingly sunnier spots each week until they receive 3-6 hours of direct sunlight daily, enabling gradual adaptation to changing light conditions.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Busy lizzie thrives with partial sun exposure but is more prone to sunburn. The intense sunlight during summer can cause leaf sunburn, making it important to provide adequate shade and protection.
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Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Temperature
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Requirements
Ideal
Tolerable
Unsuitable
Just like people, each plant has its own preferences. Learn about your plants' temperature needs and create a comforting environment for them to flourish. As you care for your plants, your bond with them will deepen. Trust your intuition as you learn about their temperature needs, celebrating the journey you share. Lovingly monitor the temperature around your plants and adjust their environment as needed. A thermometer can be your ally in this heartfelt endeavor. Be patient and gentle with yourself as you explore your plants' temperature needs. Cherish your successes, learn from challenges, and nurture your garden with love, creating a haven that reflects the warmth of your care.
Essentials
The busy lizzie prefers a temperature range of 68 to 100 ℉ (20 to 38 ℃). In its native growth environment, it thrives in tropical and subtropical regions. To adjust to temperature changes in different seasons, move the plant to a cooler location during peak summer heat.
Regional wintering strategies
Busy lizzie is extremely heat-loving, and any cold temperatures can cause harm to it. In the autumn, it is recommended to bring outdoor-grown Busy lizzie indoors and place it near a bright window, but it should be kept at a certain distance from heaters. Maintaining temperatures above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min} during winter is beneficial for plant growth. Any temperatures approaching {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min} are detrimental to the plant.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Low Temperature in %s
Busy lizzie prefers warm temperatures and is not tolerant of low temperatures. It thrives best when the temperature is above {Suitable_growth_temperature_min}. During winter, it should be kept above {Tolerable_growing_temperature_min}. When the temperature falls below {Limit_growth_temperature}, the leaves may lighten in color. After frost damage, the color gradually turns brown or black, and symptoms such as wilting and drooping may occur.
Solutions
Trim off the frost-damaged parts. Immediately move indoors to a warm environment for cold protection. Choose a spot near a south-facing window to place the plant, ensuring ample sunlight. Additionally, avoid placing the plant near heaters or air conditioning vents to prevent excessive dryness in the air.
Symptoms of High Temperature in %s
During summer, Busy lizzie should be kept below {Suitable_growth_temperature_max}. When the temperature exceeds {Tolerable_growing_temperature_max}, the color of the leaves becomes lighter, and the plant becomes more susceptible to sunburn.
Solutions
Trim away the sunburned and dried-up parts. Move the plant to a location that provides shade from the midday and afternoon sun. Water the plant in the morning and evening to keep the soil moist.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Busy Lizzie?
For the best growth of busy lizzie, choose mid spring to late spring or mid fall to late fall as ideal transplanting seasons. This allows the plant to establish roots more efficiently. Ensure a well-draining, partially-shaded location for optimal transplant success. Remember to handle the delicate root system with care during transplant!
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Busy Lizzie?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Busy Lizzie?
The perfect time to relocate your busy lizzie is between mid-spring to late-spring, or mid-fall to late-fall. Transplanting during these seasons fosters vigorous growth and stress-free adaptation, so your plant will thrive effortlessly!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Busy Lizzie Plants?
For busy lizzie, it's best to space each plant about 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) apart. This will give them enough room to grow and thrive without competing for nutrients and resources.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Busy Lizzie Transplanting?
Make sure to use moist, well-draining soil with added compost or a balanced slow-release fertilizer for busy lizzie. This combination will provide the nutrients they need for healthy growth.
Where Should You Relocate Your Busy Lizzie?
Choose a location for your busy lizzie that receives partial shade or dappled sunlight throughout the day. This ensures that they get just the right amount of sun without being overwhelmed.
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Busy Lizzie?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and plant.
Shovel or Trowel
For digging holes and removing the plant from its original location.
Pruning Shears
To trim and shape the plant during transplant, if necessary.
Watering Can or Hose
To water the plant before and after transplanting.
Compost or Organic Matter
To improve soil structure and provide nutrients for busy lizzie.
Mulch
To help retain soil moisture and suppress weed growth after transplanting.
How Do You Remove Busy Lizzie from the Soil?
- From Ground: First, water the busy lizzie plant to dampen the soil. Then, dig a wide trench around the plant using a shovel or spade, ensuring the plant's root ball remains intact. Carefully work the spade under the root ball to lift the plant from its original location.
- From Pot: Water the busy lizzie plant well to help loosen the roots from the pot. Gently tip the pot on its side and carefully slide the plant out, keeping its root ball intact. If the plant is stuck, tap the pot's edge on a hard surface to loosen it up.
- From Seedling Tray: Use a trowel to gently lift each busy lizzie seedling from the tray, being careful not to damage the roots or leaves. Hold the seedling by its root ball rather than the stem to avoid damaging the plant.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Busy Lizzie
Site Selection
Choose a location with appropriate sunlight and space for your busy lizzie plant to grow to its mature size.
Prepare the Soil
Dig a hole twice the width of the root ball and about the same depth, loosening the soil at the sides and bottom. Mix in compost or organic matter to improve soil structure.
Place the Plant
Gently lower the busy lizzie plant into the hole, aligning it so the top of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Lightly backfill the hole with soil, keeping the plant upright and centered.
Firm the Soil
Press the soil around the base of the busy lizzie plant to remove air pockets and ensure good contact between the roots and soil. Water the area thoroughly to settle the soil.
Mulching
Spread a layer of mulch around the base of the busy lizzie, leaving a small gap between the mulch and the stem to prevent rot.
How Do You Care For Busy Lizzie After Transplanting?
Watering
Keep the soil around the busy lizzie consistently moist, but not soggy, for the first few weeks after transplanting to help establish strong roots.
Pruning
Remove any damaged or dead leaves and stems using pruning shears. This will encourage healthy growth and prevent disease.
Feeding
Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer a few weeks after transplanting to provide additional nutrients and support healthy growth. Follow the package instructions for correct application and dosage.
Pest and Disease Control
Regularly check your busy lizzie for signs of pests or diseases. Treat any issues promptly with appropriate organic or chemical remedies, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Support
If your busy lizzie plant grows tall and heavy, provide support with stakes or cages to prevent stems from breaking.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Busy Lizzie Transplantation.
When should I transplant my busy lizzie?
Transplant your busy lizzie during mid to late spring or mid to late fall for best results.
How much space should I allocate for each busy lizzie?
Provide 6-12 inches (15-30 cm) of spacing between each busy lizzie plant for ideal growth.
What kind of soil should I use for transplanting my busy lizzie?
Choose well-draining, fertile, and slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.5) for transplanting your busy lizzie.
How much sunlight does a busy lizzie need after transplanting?
Place the busy lizzie in an area that receives partial shade to prevent sunburn and promote healthy growth.
How deep should I plant busy lizzie when transplanting?
Plant the busy lizzie at the same depth as it was in its original container, ensuring the crown is level with the soil.
How much water is necessary after transplanting the busy lizzie?
Keep the soil consistently moist, but avoid overwatering. Water when the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil feels dry.
Should I fertilize my busy lizzie during transplanting?
Yes, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer during transplanting to encourage healthy and steady growth.
How can I protect my transplanted busy lizzie from pests?
Monitor your busy lizzie regularly for signs of pests, like aphids, and use insecticidal soap or neem oil when necessary.
What are the common signs of transplant shock in busy lizzie?
Transplant shock may cause wilting, yellowing, loss of leaves, or slowed growth. Be patient and provide good care.
How can I reduce transplant shock in my busy lizzie?
Minimize transplant shock by planting at the right time, keeping roots moist, and avoiding rough handling during the process.
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