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Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Kleinhovia hospita
Also known as : Bataria teak, Tree antigonon, Temahau
The only species of its genus, guest tree is an evergreen tree commonly grown as an ornamental, in large part thanks to the lovely pink color of its flower clusters. It was given the name "Guest tree" for its association with riverside settlements, which were often very friendly and hospitable.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
care guide

Care Guide for Guest tree

Soil Care
Soil Care
Slightly acidic
Details on Soil Care Soil Care
Ideal Lighting
Ideal Lighting
Full sun, Partial sun
Details on Sunlight Requirements Ideal Lighting
Ideal Temperature
Ideal Temperature
10 to 12
Details on Temperature Ideal Temperature
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Guest tree
Water
Water
Every 1-2 weeks
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
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Questions About Guest tree

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
What is the best way to water my Guest tree?
Your Guest tree will not be too picky about how you choose to water it. As such, you can use just about any common watering tool to moisten this plant’s soil. Watering cans, hoses, and even cups will work just fine when it is time to water your Guest tree. Regardless of which watering tool you use, you should typically apply the water directly to the soil. In doing so, you should ensure that you moisten all soil areas equally to give all parts of the root system the water it needs. It can help to use filtered water, as tap water can contain particles that are harmful to plants. It is also beneficial to use water that is at or slightly above room temperature, as colder or hotter water can be somewhat shocking to the Guest tree. However, the Guest tree usually responds well to any kind of water you give it.
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What should I do if I water my Guest tree too much or too little?
For outdoor plants, especially newly planted plants or plant seedlings, they can be prone to lack of watering. Remember that you need to keep watering enough for a few months when the tree is small or just planted. This is because once the roots are established, Guest tree can rely on rain most of the time.
When your Guest tree is planted in pots, overwatering is often more likely to.When you accidentally overwater your Guest tree, you should be prepared to remedy the situation immediately. First, you should stop watering your plant right away to minimize the effect of your overwatering. After, you should consider removing your Guest tree from its pot to inspect its roots. If you find that none of the roots have developed root rot, it may be permissible to return your plant to its container. If you do discover signs of root rot, then you should trim away any roots that have been affected. You may also want to apply a fungicide to prevent further damage. Lastly, you should repot your Guest tree in soil that is well-draining. In the case of an underwatered Guest tree, simply water this plant more frequently.
Underwatering is often an easy fix. If you underwater, the plant's leaves will tend to droop and dry out and fall off, and the leaves will quickly return to fullness after sufficient watering. Please correct your watering frequency as soon as underwatering occurs.
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How often should I water my Guest tree?
Most plants that grow naturally outdoors can be allowed to grow normally with rainfall. If your area lacks rainfall, consider giving your plants adequate watering every 2 weeks during the spring and fall. More frequent watering is needed in summer. In winter, when growth becomes slower and plants need less water, water more sparingly. Throughout the winter, you may not give it additional watering at all. If your Guest tree is young or newly planted, then you should water more frequently to help it establish, and mature and grow up to have more adaptable and drought tolerant plants.
For potted plants, there are two main ways that you can determine how often to water your Guest tree. The first way is to set a predetermined watering schedule. If you choose this route, you should plan to water this plant about once every week or once every other week. However, this approach may not always work as it does not consider the unique conditions of the growing environment for your Guest tree .
Your watering frequency can also change depending on the season. For instance, a predetermined watering schedule will likely not suffice during summer when this plant's water needs are highest. An alternative route is to set your watering frequency based on soil moisture. Typically, it is best to wait until the first two to four inches of soil, usually ⅓ to ½ depth of the pots, have dried out entirely before you give more water.
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How much water does my Guest tree need?
When it comes time to water your Guest tree, you may be surprised to find that this plant does not always need a high volume of water. Instead, if only a few inches of soil have dried since your last watering, you can support healthy growth in the Guest tree by giving it about five to ten ounces of water every time you water. You can also decide your water volume based on soil moisture. As mentioned above, you should note how many inches of soil have dried out between waterings. A surefire way to make sure your Guest tree gets the moisture it needs is to supply enough water to moisten all the soil layers that became dry since the last time you watered. If more than half of the soil has become dry, you should consider giving more water than usual. In those cases, continue adding water until you see excess water draining from your pot’s drainage holes.
If your Guest tree is planted in an area that gets plenty of rain outdoors, it may not need additional watering. When the Guest tree is young or just getting established, make sure it gets 1-2 inches of rain per week. As it continues to grow and establish, it can survive entirely on rainwater and only when the weather is hot and there is no rainfall at all for 2-3 weeks, then consider giving your Guest tree a full watering to prevent them from suffering stress.
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How can I tell if i'm watering my Guest tree enough?
Overwatering is a far more common problem for the Guest tree, and there are several signs you should look for when this occurs. Generally, an overwatered Guest tree will have yellowing leaves and may even drop some leaves. Also, overwatering can cause the overall structure of your plant to shrivel and may also promote root rot. On the other hand, an underwatered Guest tree will also begin to wilt. It may also display leaves that are brown or brittle to the touch. Whether you see signs of overwatering or underwatering, you should be prepared to intervene and restore the health of your Guest tree.
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How can I water my Guest tree at different growth stages?
When the Guest tree is very young, such as when it is in a seedling stage, you will need to give it more water than you would if it were at a mature age. During the early stages of this plant’s life, it is important to keep the soil consistently moist to encourage root development. The same is true for any Guest tree that you have transplanted to a new growing location. Also, the Guest tree can develop showy flowers and fruits when you give them the correct care. If your Guest tree is in a flowering or fruiting phase, you will likely need to give a bit more water than you usually would to support these plant structures.
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How can I water my Guest tree through the seasons?
The seasonal changes will affect how often you water your Guest tree. Mainly, during the hottest summer months, you will likely need to increase how much you water this plant, especially if it grows in an area that receives ample sunlight. Strong summer sunlight can cause soil to dry out much faster than usual, meaning that you’ll need to water more frequently. By contrast, your Guest tree will need much less water during the winter, as it will not be in an active growing phase. During winter, you can get by with watering once every 2 to 3 weeks or sometimes not at all. For those growing this plant indoors, you should be somewhat wary of appliances such as air conditioners, which can cause your plant to dry out more quickly, which also calls for more frequent watering.
Read More more
What's the difference between watering my Guest tree indoors vs outdoors?
In some cases, your Guest tree may not need any supplemental watering when it grows outside and will survive on rainwater alone. However, if you live in an area of little to no rain, you should water this plant about every two weeks. If you belong to the group of people who live out of this plant's natural hardiness zone, you should grow it indoors. In an indoor setting, you should monitor your plant's soil as it can dry out more quickly when it is in a container or when it is exposed to HVAC units such as air conditioners. Those drying factors will lead you to water this plant a bit more often than if you grew it outdoors.
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Key Facts About Guest tree

Attributes of Guest tree

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Bloom Time
All year around
Plant Height
8 m to 15 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
5 mm
Flower Color
Pink
White
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃

Scientific Classification of Guest tree

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Guest tree

Common issues for Guest tree based on 10 million real cases
Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
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Branch blight
plant poor
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
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Sap-sucking insects
plant poor
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Flower withering
plant poor
Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
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distribution

Distribution of Guest tree

Distribution Map of Guest tree

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
habit
care_scenes

More Info on Guest Tree Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
Explore More
Lighting
Full sun
The guest tree thrives under strong rays of the sun. However, it can also endure not-so-intensive light, but being overexposed or understated with sun exposure could impair its growth. Originating from an environment with robust sunlight, all growth stages necessitate ample light.
Best Sunlight Practices
Transplant
10-15 feet
The prime time to relocate guest tree would be in the lush growth phase, symbolized as S2-S3. This is due to its rejuvenating vigor and better adaptability. When transplanting, choose a place with abundant sunlight and good draining soil; ensuring a smooth transition for guest tree. Remember, patient care leads to productive growth.
Transplant Techniques
Feng shui direction
West
The guest tree exudes a subtle, grounding energy, making it potentially suitable for enhancing the metal element in West-facing areas. In Feng Shui tradition, it is believed that West-facing elements, represented by metal, can be nourished by the earth-like vibes of this plant. However, the interpretation of these energies can vary significantly according to individual perceptions and preferences.
Fengshui Details
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Plants Related to Guest tree

Flaxflower skyrocket
Flaxflower skyrocket
The Ipomopsis longiflora is also known by its unique common name, flaxflower skyrocket. The plant is found in the western United States, and it grows in dry plains and semi-arid deserts. Hummingbirds love to drink nectar from the long, tubular flowers of the flaxflower skyrocket, which can sometimes reach nearly 8 cm in length!
Flax-leaved candytuft
Flax-leaved candytuft
Flax-leaved candytuft (Iberis linifolia) is most likely to be spotted growing on rocky slopes and domestic lawns in Mediterranean habitats. Its attractive white or mauve flowers bear a delightful resemblance to the tufted confections it is named after.
Flatleaf bladderwort
Flatleaf bladderwort
The flatleaf bladderwort is a carnivorous plant that can survive in water either by rooting in the substrate or by floating. These plants trap and consume prey using sophisticated trapdoors in their "bladders." These bladders also host their own ecosystems of beneficial bacteria, algae, and diatoms.
Flat-leaved alangium
Flat-leaved alangium
Tree height is 2 to 4 m. The trunk is almost upright and there is no tear in the bark. The leaves are large and reciprocal, 10 to 20 cm long, 3-5 shallow, rarely individuated, the tip of the fragment extends long, and the base of the leaf blade deeply enters the bay. Leaves are thin, with soft hair scattered on the surface and slightly soft hair on the back. The petiole is 4 to 10 cm, and the petiole is an internal bud that envelops the winter buds. A few white flowers are hung by the inflorescences beside the leaves. The cocoon is a long and narrow cylinder with a length of about 3 cm. There are six petals in the shape of 3 to 3.5 cm in length, and they warp strongly. The coral is yellow and elongated. The drupe is an oval sphere with a length of 7 to 8 mm and becomes indigo when ripe.
Flask-shaped vanda
Flask-shaped vanda
Flask-shaped vanda is a petite orchid that was only recently identified in 2012 by L.M. Gardiner. Preferring bright light, in the wild it is generally seen on deciduous trees, leaving its spongy roots exposed to gather water and nutrients. Flask-shaped vanda flourishes in hot temperatures.
Five-ribbed thyme
Five-ribbed thyme
The stem is thin, crawls the ground, and branches well. The branches have short hairs, standing up to a height of 3 to 15 cm. Leaves grow against the stem. The leaf blades are oval to narrow, with a blunt tip, a length of 5 to 10 mm, a width of 3 to 6 mm, and a full edge. There is fragrance throughout. Put a short flower spike at the tip of the branch. The corolla has a crimson-colored lip shape, with the upper lip slightly split and standing upright, and the lower lip is split and opened. The spider has a cylindrical bell-shaped lip shape. There are four stamens. The fruit becomes fruit and becomes slightly flat.
Cape jasmine
Cape jasmine
Gardenia jasminoides is an evergreen shrub with unique, glossy evergreen leaves and stunning flowers. The sophisticated, matte white flowers are often used in bouquets. The exceptional beauty of this ornamental plant has made it a popular and highly appreciated plant amongst gardeners and horticulturalists.
Golden pothos
Golden pothos
The golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is a popular houseplant that is commonly seen in Australia, Asia, and the West Indies. It goes by many nicknames, including "devil's ivy", because it is so hard to kill and can even grow in low light conditions. Golden pothos has poisonous sap, so it should be kept away from pets and children.
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About
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Related Plants
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Guest tree
Kleinhovia hospita
Also known as: Bataria teak, Tree antigonon, Temahau
The only species of its genus, guest tree is an evergreen tree commonly grown as an ornamental, in large part thanks to the lovely pink color of its flower clusters. It was given the name "Guest tree" for its association with riverside settlements, which were often very friendly and hospitable.
Hardiness Zones
Hardiness Zones
10 to 12
care guide

Care Guide for Guest tree

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Questions About Guest tree

Watering Watering Watering
Pruning Pruning Pruning
Sunlight Sunlight Sunlight
Temperature Temperature Temperature
What is the best way to water my Guest tree?
more
What should I do if I water my Guest tree too much or too little?
more
How often should I water my Guest tree?
more
How much water does my Guest tree need?
more
How can I tell if i'm watering my Guest tree enough?
more
How can I water my Guest tree at different growth stages?
more
How can I water my Guest tree through the seasons?
more
What's the difference between watering my Guest tree indoors vs outdoors?
more
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Keep your plants happy and healthy with our guide to watering, lighting, feeding and more.
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plant_info

Key Facts About Guest tree

Attributes of Guest tree

Lifespan
Perennial
Plant Type
Tree
Bloom Time
All year around
Plant Height
8 m to 15 m
Leaf Color
Green
Flower Size
5 mm
Flower Color
Pink
White
Leaf type
Evergreen
Ideal Temperature
20 - 38 ℃
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Scientific Classification of Guest tree

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pests

Common Pests & Diseases About Guest tree

Common issues for Guest tree based on 10 million real cases
Branch blight
Branch blight Branch blight Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Solutions: Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease. All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues. Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Learn More About the Branch blight more
Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Solutions: Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Learn More About the Sap-sucking insects more
Flower withering
Flower withering Flower withering Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Solutions: If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible. For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface. In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well. If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Learn More About the Flower withering more
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Branch blight
plant poor
Branch blight
Branch blight can cause lignified branches to dry up entirely and die.
Overview
Overview
"Blight" is an umbrella term used to describe a category of tree diseases caused by fungus or bacteria. Branch blight occurs when fungus attacks the branches and twigs of a tree, resulting in branches slowly dying off.
Branch blight can affect most species of trees to some degree, and it may be called by different names including twig blight or stem blight. It is caused by a variety of fungi which attack branches first, especially immature growth.
Blight usually occurs in warm, humid conditions, so is most common in the spring and summer months. Because specific environmental conditions are required, the frequency of branch blight can vary from year to year. This makes the disease hard to control, as it can spread between trees and affect multiple plants in a short period of time.
In the worst-case scenario, trees can lose significant portions of their foliage and fail to produce fruit. Young or unhealthy trees could die off completely.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
The first symptoms of branch blight are that the emerging foliage turns brown or gray at the tips, especially on the smallest branches. Brown spots cover the entire surface of the leaves, eventually causing leaves and stems to shrivel and fall off. Over time, the dying tissue will spread toward the center of the plant. If left untreated, spores from the attacking fungus may appear on dying foliage within 3-4 weeks of the infection.
In some cases, lesions may form at the spot where the twig branches off from the healthy tissue. Branches may display girdling, which is a band of damaged tissue encircling the branch. An untreated tree will eventually lose all of its foliage and die.
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
  • Pathogens on young twigs and foliage cause disease
  • Stressed and unhealthy trees are more susceptible - root injury due to physical or insect damage, infection, or aging can prevent adequate absorption of water and nutrients
  • Extremely wet conditions including sprinkler watering can attract fungus
  • Fungi can be transmitted between nearby trees
Solutions
Solutions
  • Inspect trees frequently, and remove any infected branches as soon as possible. Branch blight cannot be cured, so the only treatment is to prune the tree and monitor it carefully for signs of the disease.
  • All affected parts of the tree should be removed, since blight can survive over the winter inside the plant’s tissues.
  • Blight can become systemic in the tree, in which case the entire plant should be removed so it does not remain a host for the pathogen and allow it to spread.
Prevention
Prevention
  • Avoid purchasing trees with dead or dying growth.
  • Sterilize cutting tools frequently when pruning to avoid spreading fungus between plants.
  • Keep trees mulched and watered, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress.
  • Avoid splashing water on the leaves when watering, as wet foliage is attractive to fungi and bacteria.
  • When planting, allow enough room between trees that there will be sufficient air circulation for them to dry out. Crowding trees too close together can increase humidity and allow the fungi to transfer.
  • When conditions are wet and humid, a fungicide can be used on new growth.
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Sap-sucking insects
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Sap-sucking insects
Sap-sucking insects can create dense clusters of small yellow or white spots on the leaves.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Your plant has developed tiny yellowish spots scattered across the leaves that look like mold or mildew. If these marks won't wipe off, they are likely caused by sap-sucking insects like aphids, squash bugs, scale bugs, leafhoppers, whiteflies, mites, mealybugs, and more.
Each of these pests uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. uses mouthparts to pierce leaf tissues and suck the sap. Signs of damage are difficult to spot at first, but a large infestation can quickly compromise the whole plant. You're most likely to see sap-sucking insects during the hottest months because plants make easier targets when already weakened from heat or drought.
Though sap-sucking insects are unlikely to kill your plant on their own, they can severely weaken it and make it more susceptible to disease. They may also spread viruses from one plant to another as they feed.
Solutions
Solutions
Sap-sucking insects can be hard to spot, as they are often small and attach to the undersides of plant leaves. If you see signs of an infestation, follow these steps to eradicate it.
  1. Hand-pick bugs and remove eggs: Inspect your plants for insects and drop any you find in a container of soapy water. Look carefully at the undersides of plant leaves and squish any egg clusters you find.
  2. Use Insecticide: Targeted spraying can take out sap-sucking insects. Small infestations can be controlled with insecticidal soap, though larger outbreaks might require a stronger spray.
  3. Introduce natural predators: Many insects, including ladybugs and praying mantises, love to feast on sap-suckers. You can purchase them at garden stores and release them near infected plants, or encourage wild ones by creating habitat space.
Prevention
Prevention
Healthy plants are less likely to suffer from sap-sucker attacks. Keep them fortified with fertilizer and the right amounts of water and sunlight. Plants that receive excess nitrogen are also more susceptible to attack, so don’t overfertilize. You should also remove weeds and tall grasses surrounding your outdoor plants so as not to create habitat space for the pests.
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Flower withering
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Flower withering
Flowers may dry out due to a sudden change in environment or because the plant has completed its normal flowering period.
Overview
Overview
Flower withering occurs when flowers become weak, droopy, wilted, or faded until they can’t be revived. During withering, they begin to wrinkle and shrink until the flower becomes completely dry or dead.
Any flowers, regardless of the plant type or the climate they are grown in, are susceptible to withering. It is a worldwide problem across houseplants, herbs, flowering ornamentals, trees, shrubs, garden vegetables, and food crops.
Unlike wilting—which withering is often confused with—withering can be caused by different things and is often due to more than a lack of water. Withering can be fatal in severe cases.
Symptom Analysis
Symptom Analysis
Flower withering progresses from very mild cases to severe occurrences that kill the flower. The severity of the symptoms is related to the cause and how long the condition is allowed to progress before action is taken.
  • Wilted, droopy flowers
  • Petals and leaves begin to wrinkle
  • Brown papery streaks or spots appear on the petals and leaf tips
  • Flowerhead shrink in size
  • Petal color fades
  • Yellowing leaves
  • Complete death of the flower
Disease Cause
Disease Cause
The main causes of flower withering include natural age progress, lack of water, nutritional deficiencies, and bacterial or fungal diseases. It’s critical to determine the underlying cause when flower withering is noticed. This will guide the best course of action, if treatment is possible.
Check the soil for moisture and then closely examine the entire plant for signs of nutrient deficiencies. If neither of those appears to be the cause then cut open the stem below a flower. If a cross-section reveals brown or rust-colored stains it is safe to assume that this is a bacterial or fungal infection.
If the flower is nearing the end of its normal lifespan, genetic coding within the plant increases the production of ethylene, a phytohormone that controls senescence, or cell aging and death. Cell division stops and the plant begins breaking down resources within the flower to use in other parts of the plant.
In all other cases, flower withering happens when the plant seals off the stem as a defense mechanism, stopping transport within the vascular system. This prevents further water loss through the flowers but also stops bacteria and fungi from moving to healthy parts of the plant. Once water and nutrient transport stops, the flower begins to wither and ultimately die.
Solutions
Solutions
If flower withering is a natural progression due to age, there is nothing that can be done to slow or stop the process. Once hormones within the plant begin the process of senescence, it’s irreversible.
For lack of water, immediately water the plant using room temperature rainwater, bottled spring water, or filtered tap water. Water container plants until excess water drains out the bottom; water in-ground plants until the soil is soaked but there isn’t standing water on the surface.
In the event of nutritional deficiencies, the best solution is to use a granular or water-soluble liquid fertilizer, and apply it to the soil at about half the recommended dosage. Keep it off the leaves and make sure granular products are watered into the soil well.
If the plant is infected with a bacterial or fungal pathogen, there is no course of treatment that cures the diseased plants. The best solution is to remove the infected plants and dispose of the plant material off-site. Do not put in a compost pile.
Prevention
Prevention
This is definitely one of those instances where prevention is more effective than cure. Here are some preventative measures for avoiding premature flower withering.
  • Water plants according to their needs -- either keep the soil slightly moist or allow the top inch or two to dry out before watering again.
  • Fertilize lightly on a consistent basis, depending upon the plant’s growth. Quick-growing plants and those that flower or develop fruit will need more frequent fertilizing than slow-growing plants.
  • Purchase plants that are certified disease- or pathogen-free.
  • Look for disease-resistant cultivars.
  • Isolate plants showing disease symptoms to prevent the spread to neighboring plants.
  • Practice good plant hygiene by removing any fallen plant material as soon as possible.
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distribution

Distribution of Guest tree

Distribution Map of Guest tree

distribution map
Native
Cultivated
Invasive
Potentially invasive
Exotic
No species reported
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More Info on Guest Tree Growth and Care

Basic Care Guide
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Plants Related to Guest tree

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Lighting
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Indoor
Indoor
Outdoor
Choose a site here for personalized care tips.
Requirements
Full sun
Ideal
Above 6 hours sunlight
Partial sun
Tolerance
About 3-6 hours sunlight
Watch how sunlight gracefully moves through your garden, and choose spots that provide the perfect balance of light and shade for your plants, ensuring their happiness.
Essentials
The guest tree thrives under strong rays of the sun. However, it can also endure not-so-intensive light, but being overexposed or understated with sun exposure could impair its growth. Originating from an environment with robust sunlight, all growth stages necessitate ample light.
Preferred
Tolerable
Unsuitable
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Artificial lighting
Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
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Indoor plants require adequate lighting for optimal growth. When natural sunlight is insufficient, particularly in winter or in less sunny spaces, artificial lights offer a vital solution, promoting faster, healthier growth.
1. Choose the right type of artificial light: LED lights are a popular choice for indoor plant lighting because they can be customized to provide the specific wavelengths of light that your plants need.
Full sun plants need 30-50W/sq ft of artificial light, partial sun plants need 20-30W/sq ft, and full shade plants need 10-20W/sq ft.
2. Determine the appropriate distance: Place the light source 12-36 inches above the plant to mimic natural sunlight.
3. Determine the duration: Mimic the length of natural daylight hours for your plant species. most plants need 8-12 hours of light per day.
Important Symptoms
Symptoms of Insufficient Light in %s
Guest tree thrives in full sunlight and is commonly cultivated outdoors. When grown indoors with limited light, it may exhibit subtle symptoms of light deficiency that can easily go unnoticed.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Small leaves
New leaves may grow smaller in size compared to the previous ones once they have matured.
Leggy or sparse growth
The spaces between leaves or stems of your Guest tree may become longer, resulting in a thin and stretched-out appearance. This can make the plant look sparse and weak, and it may easily break or lean due to its own weight.
Faster leaf drop
When plants are exposed to low light conditions, they tend to shed older leaves early to conserve resources. Within a limited time, these resources can be utilized to grow new leaves until the plant's energy reserves are depleted.
Slower or no new growth
Guest tree enters a survival mode when light conditions are poor, which leads to a halt in leaf production. As a result, the plant's growth becomes delayed or stops altogether.
Lighter-colored new leaves
Insufficient sunlight can cause leaves to develop irregular color patterns or appear pale. This indicates a lack of chlorophyll and essential nutrients.
Solutions
1. To ensure optimal growth, gradually move plants to a sunnier location each week, until they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Use a south-facing window and keep curtains open during the day for maximum sunlight exposure and nutrient accumulation.2. To provide additional light for your plant, consider using artificial light if it's large or not easily movable. Keep a desk or ceiling lamp on for at least 8 hours daily, or invest in professional plant grow lights for ample light.
Symptoms of Excessive light in %s
Guest tree thrives in full sun exposure and can tolerate intense sunlight. With their remarkable resilience, symptoms of sunburn may not be easily visible, as they rarely suffer from it.
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(Symptom details and solutions)
Chlorosis
Chlorosis is a condition where the plant's leaves lose their green color and turn yellow. This is due to the breakdown of chlorophyll from excessive sunlight, which negatively affects the plant's ability to photosynthesize.
Sunscald
Sunscald occurs when the plant's leaves or stems are damaged by intense sunlight exposure. It appears as pale, bleached, or necrotic areas on the plant tissue and can reduce the plant's overall health.
Leaf Curling
Leaf curling is a symptom where leaves curl or twist under extreme sunlight conditions. This is a defense mechanism used by the plant to reduce its surface area exposed to sunlight, minimizing water loss and damage.
Wilting
Wilting occurs when a plant loses turgor pressure and its leaves and stems begin to droop. Overexposure to sunlight can cause wilting by increasing the plant's water loss through transpiration, making it difficult for the plant to maintain adequate hydration.
Leaf Scorching
Leaf scorching is a symptom characterized by the appearance of brown, dry, and crispy edges or patches on leaves due to excessive sunlight. This can lead to a reduction in photosynthetic capacity and overall plant health.
Solutions
1. Move your plant to the optimal position where it can receive abundant sunlight but also have some shade. An east-facing window is an ideal choice as the morning sunlight is gentler. This way, your plant can enjoy ample sunlight while reducing the risk of sunburn.2. It is recommended to trim off any completely dehydrated or withered parts of the plant.
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Transplant
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How to Successfully Transplant Guest Tree?
The prime time to relocate guest tree would be in the lush growth phase, symbolized as S2-S3. This is due to its rejuvenating vigor and better adaptability. When transplanting, choose a place with abundant sunlight and good draining soil; ensuring a smooth transition for guest tree. Remember, patient care leads to productive growth.
What Preparations are Needed Before Transplanting Guest Tree?
What is the Ideal Time for Transplanting Guest Tree?
The optimal time to transplant guest tree is during late winter to early spring (S2-S3). This period ensures the plant becomes well established before active growth starts. Transplanting guest tree in this timeframe prepares it to fully utilize the upcoming growing season, promoting lush growth and abundant flowering. With a friendly nudge, remember, a well-timed transplant allows guest tree to thrive to its full potential!
How Much Space Should You Leave Between Guest Tree Plants?
When transplanting your guest tree, make sure to allow adequate space for each plant (up to 10-15 feet or 3-4.5 meters) to let them grow freely and absorb nutrients equally. This will ensure their healthy growth.
What is the Best Soil Mix for Guest Tree Transplanting?
For your guest tree, well-draining, fertile soil is best. Adding some base fertilizer, like compost or well-rotted manure, will enhance your soil's nutrients and ensure a strong start for your plants.
Where Should You Relocate Your Guest Tree?
Your guest tree will thrive best in a sunny location with light shade. Make sure the location gets sunlight for at least 6 hours each day for optimal growth. Avoid areas with heavy shadow or full sun exposure. Happy planting!
What Equipments Should You Prepare Before Transplantation Guest Tree?
Gardening Gloves
To protect your hands while working with the soil and spreading roots of guest tree.
Shovel or Spade
To help with digging in the ground and carefully removing the plant from its original location.
Garden Trowel
To assist with smaller, precision digging tasks.
Watering Can or Hose
For hydrating the plant before and after transplantation.
Root Pruning Shears
To trim any injured or diseased roots during the transplant process.
Wheelbarrow
To transport the plant from the original location to the new site, particularly if the plant is bigger and heavier.
Compost
To provide the guest tree plant with nutrients needed for its regrowth and survival in new environment.
How Do You Remove Guest Tree from the Soil?
From Ground: Begin by watering the guest tree plant generously to dampen the soil. Use your shovel to dig a wide trench around the plant, taking care not to cut into the plant's root system. Gradually work the spade under the root ball, evenly lifting plant from the ground, keeping the root ball intact.
From Pot: If the plant is in a pot, try to keep the root ball undisturbed as much as possible. Tip the pot sideways, and gently pull out the plant, supporting the base. If the plant is stuck, tap the sides and bottom of the pot to loosen it, rather than yanking on the stem.
From Seedling Tray: Lightly water the trays before starting the transplantation. Carefully separate the seedlings as much as possible without causing damage. Lift each plant by its true leaves, not the stem, and carefully remove it from the tray.
Step-by-Step Guide for Transplanting Guest Tree
Prep Time
Make sure to transplant your guest tree when the plant is dormant, preferably in early spring. This gives it a better chance of surviving and thriving in the new environment.
Hole Preparation
Dig a hole in the chosen location twice as wide and as deep as the root ball of the guest tree plant. The inside of the hole should be rough, not smooth, to allow the roots to penetrate into the soil.
Plant Positioning
Place the plant in the hole, making sure that it sits at the same depth as it was in its original location, with the root ball resting flat on the bottom.
Backfilling
Fill the hole with compost or soil, making sure there are no air pockets. Press the soil gently around the base of the plant.
Watering and Monitoring
Water the plant immediately after transplanting. It is important to keep a close eye on it for the first couple of weeks as it adjusts to the new environment.
How Do You Care For Guest Tree After Transplanting?
Watering
It’s vital to provide the newly transplanted guest tree with sufficient water. Make sure you water deeply, allowing the water to reach the root zone and help it establish firmly. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged.
Pruning
Trim any withering leaves or branches from guest tree plant, after a week of transplanting. This helps the plant to focus its energy on root system development and new growth.
Disease Control
Inspect the guest tree plant regularly for signs of pest or disease. Use eco-friendly pest control methods if required, to help your plant grow healthily.
Seasonal Care
In winter, ensure that guest tree has enough mulch around its base to protect it from freezing conditions.
Troubleshooting Common Issues with Guest Tree Transplantation.
What's the best time of year to transplant guest tree?
The ideal season to transplant guest tree is during the mid to late growing stage, often referred to as S2-S3.
How much space should be there between two guest tree while transplanting?
When transplanting, assure guest tree is given plenty of room to grow by maintaining a space of 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) between each plant.
What are the indications that guest tree is ready for transplanting?
Guest tree is ready for transplanting when it has developed a robust root system and shows new growth on the stems.
How deep should I plant guest tree when transplanting?
The roots of guest tree should be covered entirely in the soil, but the collar of the stem must be above the soil surface.
Should I water guest tree immediately after transplanting?
Yes, watering ensures the plant's roots establish contact with fresh soil and help guest tree to settle in the new environment quickly.
Am I allowed to trim guest tree during the transplanting process?
Yes, you can. Pruning older, larger branches help guest tree focus its energy on developing new roots post-transplant.
Is it necessary to add fertilizers during the transplantation of guest tree?
It's not crucial right away, but adding a slow-release fertilizer a few weeks post-transplant can provide guest tree with essential nutrients for growth.
What type of soil is best for transplanting guest tree?
Guest tree thrives best in well-draining soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH. Make sure the soil is rich in organic matter.
What's the correct technique to remove guest tree for transplantation?
Gently ease guest tree out from its container, ensuring not to distress the roots. If the plant is stuck, invert the pot and tap the rim lightly.
How should I care for guest tree after transplanting?
Ensure guest tree gets ample water and light, protect it from harsh weather conditions and remember to check periodically for pests or diseases.
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